Installing gutters: how to properly install the gutter and attach it to the roof. How to make metal gutters for a roof with your own hands - installing a spillway What to make a drainage system yourself

Every experienced builder knows that the installation of a roof must be preceded by the installation of a drainage system that performs a number of functions:

protective. It is the roof drain that ensures the drainage of storm and melt water, which can cause irreparable damage to the walls, basement and foundation of any building in a matter of years.
decorative;
the function of collecting storm water, which can well be used for watering garden and garden plants.

To date, it is not difficult to purchase ready-made gutter structures in specialized stores and on construction markets, which are a kind of constructor. But for certain reasons, as a rule, we are talking about saving, many owners of private houses decide to make a drain with their own hands, using improvised materials for this purpose. Of course, this option involves a lot more effort, but the savings are worth it.

For those who intend to collect a homemade gutter, experienced home craftsmen recommend
pay attention to the system of plastic sewer pipes. Firstly, all the necessary parts can be purchased for a more than affordable price. Secondly, due to the wide assortment, there will be no problems with the selection of the necessary elements, joints and connections. Well, and, thirdly, PVC is easy to process even at home and, if desired, the finished drainage system can even be painted to match the roof.

In the case of high-quality installation, timely repairs and correctly selected materials, gutters from sewer pipes can be operated for 7-10 years.

To make such a design with your own hands at home, you will need:

polymer sewer pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm, for the manufacture of gutters;
polypropylene pipes, 5 cm in diameter, which will serve as vertical drainage elements;
tees and adapters for connecting structural elements;
outdoor sealant or silicone;
strips of durable sheet metal for the manufacture of brackets.

In order to correctly complete the purchase and not purchase too much, it is recommended that you first make a draft of the future drain. In principle, the amount of materials depends on parameters such as:

roof perimeter;
building height;
the length of the roof overhang.

Perimeter measurements give an idea of the required footage of the gutters. In other words, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm will need half the value obtained during the measurements, because they will need to be cut in half.

The drainage system is not only gutters, but also pipes for the drainage of storm and melt water. For their purchase, it is necessary to take into account the overhang of the roof. If it is less than 10 m, then 1 drain will be enough. Otherwise, it is advisable to use two or more risers. The length of the pipe will depend on the height of the building. Based on the project, the number of tees and adapters is determined.

The technology of manufacturing a drain from polymer pipes at home

In addition to the above materials, to make a drain from sewer polymer pipes at home you will need:

angle grinder (grinder) or electric jigsaw;
coarse-dusting diamond disc;
construction cord to determine the level of fastening of the brackets;
screwdriver, screws.

To make a gutter from a pre-purchased sewer pipe, you need to cut it in half. An ordinary grinder or jigsaw will help to cope with such a task correctly. As a last resort, you can use a knife blade. It will not be superfluous to pre-make wooden templates, thanks to which the gutters will be the same size.

It is advisable not to saw the pipe sections in front of the risers in order to ensure the maximum strength of the future structure. To do this, 15-20 cm is enough on both sides of the riser, the holes for which in the gutter are conveniently made using a jigsaw.

The gutters are joined together either with a special sealant (silicone) or with aluminum clips. In this case, the role of the plugs can be performed by semicircles pre-cut from a polypropylene sheet, which are also glued with suitable compounds.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the system, it is necessary to make brackets, which will require strips of strong sheet metal, curved in the shape and size of the gutters.

When installing the brackets, it is important to observe an angle of inclination of about 1 cm for each running meter of the gutter, which will ensure proper drainage of storm and melt water and prevent their stagnation.

The drainage system from the roof is assembled into a single whole after the installation of the brackets, which are fastened with screws using a screwdriver to the frontal roof board or support rafters. The construction cord allows you to correctly position the brackets with respect to the slope.

The only thing that remains is to assemble the tees connecting the gutters with the drainage pipes, taking care of the tightness of all joints.

What else can you make a gutter with your own hands?

You can make your own roof drain not only from polymer sewer pipes, but also from wood, galvanized steel, cellular polycarbonate and even plastic bottles.

It is important to understand that the lifespan of a wooden gutter depends on the type of wood. It is worth choosing pine, larch or fir, but in any case, to make such a drainage system for a roof at home, you will need carpentry skills and impressive financial costs, since high-quality wood is not cheap today.

For this reason, home craftsmen often prefer galvanized steel gutters, which are more than realistic to make at home. To do this, you will need directly a galvanized sheet with a thickness of about 0.5 mm, metal scissors, a hammer, pliers and a marker for marking.

According to a previously created project, a marking is applied to a metal sheet, after which a cutting is performed on it. The desired shape is given to the cut strips using a mallet and pliers. It will be correct to pre-cut a workpiece from a tree or pipe and already along it give the necessary outlines to the grooves and pipes.

Perhaps the most unusual option for roof gutters is from disposable plastic bottles. Such a structure will last a year at best, but with minimal financial costs, this is also a good solution to the problem of removing melt and storm water from the roof during autumn rains and spring thaws, especially if the financial situation does not yet allow purchasing something more worthwhile.

To make such a wonderful design, you will need:

plastic bottles with a flat cylindrical center;
scissors;
drill;
furniture stapler with staples;
thin wire.

To make a drain from plastic bottles, you should take an unembossed cylindrical container, because the patterns will quickly clog the drainage structure.

To determine the required number of bottles, you need to correctly measure the length of the drain along the entire perimeter of the roof. This will make it possible to determine the slope angle of the future gutter. Next, you should prepare the bottles by removing the labels from them and cutting off the bottoms and necks. The resulting cylinders are cut along the seam with scissors. The formed plastic rectangles are overlapped by means of a stapler and staples, forming a groove.

This gutter element is attached to the roof by means of a wire. For this, holes are made in the slate with a drill.

It remains only to make a drainage system. To do this, the neck from one bottle is attached to the cylinder from the other, after which the edge of the chute is placed in it. In this case, the role of a vertical pipe for draining water can be performed both by plastic cylinders connected to each other by means of a stapler, and by necks suspended on a wire one after another, creating the effect of watering cans.

For temporary salvation from the water flowing from the roof, the design of plastic bottles is the best fit, because it costs almost nothing, and it takes a minimum of time to make it.

Any building needs high-quality drainage of atmospheric precipitation. The roof itself is sealed, and storm water and snow go away thanks to the slopes. But if the flowing moisture gets on the facade or foundation of the building, then they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. It is a protective structure consisting of a system of gutters located along the perimeter of the roof and outlet pipes.

Why do you need a drain

An external gutter is a set of open gutters that collects moisture from the roof and directs it into vertical drain pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with containers for collecting water or storm sewers.

The gutter protects the house from the damaging effects of moisture

Functions of the drain

The drain performs the following functions:

Protective. It consists in the disposal of wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
Decorative. A beautiful homemade gutter will become a decoration of your home or gazebo.
Cumulative. With the help of such a system, storm water can be filled into a special reservoir for irrigation.

Industrial gutters are made of special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and elbows, then the price will double. Ready-made parts have their advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a constructor. To save money, the craftsmen found an alternative and began to independently manufacture drainage systems from improvised means, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if there is already a house or summer cottage, but there is no drain, then you can risk making it yourself.

Homemade gutter can last for years

If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a homemade drain can be used as the main one.

Types of gutters

The drain is of the following types:

Outside or outside. This type is suitable for self-assembly.
Internal, which is foreseen in the project. Most often, this type is installed on flat roofs; pipes made of any material are suitable for it.

Materials for homemade gutters

Previously, only metal was used to assemble the ebb systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now the range of suitable materials has increased significantly:

Galvanized steel gutters. They are durable, reliable, resistant to stress and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and corrosion susceptibility.
Galvanized steel is one of the most popular gutter materials
PVC ejection systems. They are characterized by low weight and low noise, are easy to assemble and resist temperature extremes well.
PVC gutter - reliable and quiet
Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to their convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for industrial PVC gutters.
Sewer pipes are great gutter material
Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will need special clay and pottery skill.
Ceramic pipes are very durable
Ebb from plastic bottles. They are quick to install, but suitable as a temporary alternative.
Bottle plastic is the most affordable material for creating drainage
Wooden gutters. Made by hand, they last a long time only in the case of special processing.
Wooden gutter is very decorative
Copper drains. They are suitable for long-term use, but over time they become covered with a patina.
Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

For the hand-made manufacture of a standard drainage system, plastic sewer pipes are often used. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

affordable price;
a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as all kinds of fastening mechanisms;
light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
the possibility of self-cutting;
durability.

Since such pipes come in different colors, you need to figure out which ones are recommended to be used for arranging the drainage system:

How to make a drain with your own hands

Before purchasing pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their number:

The cross-section of the pipes is selected based on the area of the roof slope. You can use the following scale:

slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
more than 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

The rest of the elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

As already noted, before purchasing materials and installing a drain, it is necessary to draw a detailed diagram in which the following should be noted:

roof perimeter;
length and number of gutters;
attachment points for brackets, joints and funnels;
location of drains.

Based on the perimeter of the roof, the footage of the pipe for future gutters is determined. Since it is cut in half and two pieces are obtained from one workpiece, the required pipe length will be equal to half of the roof perimeter. Next, the number of drainpipes is calculated. For this, a plan is drawn, on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of gutters, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the eaves overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and the desired pipe length is obtained. Tees connecting the gutters and risers are calculated next on the project. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. And also a special universal joint sealant is required.

Tools for the job

For work you need:

wood screws;
screwdriver;
grinder, jigsaw;
hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
construction cord;
level and tape measure;

Scaffolding will also be needed.

Construction of a drainage system

After purchasing the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

Create gutters

To make a gutter from the pipe, it should be cut in half. This can be done with a grinder by choosing a diamond-plated disc and segments. Then the plastic will not melt during cutting. You can also use an electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to design something like a guide and fix it on the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can also be done with a simple hacksaw. A ruler attached to the workpiece with tape, or a thread pulled over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe from both ends, can act as a guide. The pipe sections included in the tee are not sawn. This ensures reliable connections.

One plastic pipe produces two gutters

Manufacturing and installation of brackets

Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make your own from strips of sheet metal, bending to the size of the gutter. The bracket is the basic component of the outdoor gutter that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, the configuration of the intake circuit is formed.
The brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can purchase ready-made strips for electrical work. Their section is initially suitable, it remains only to cut the blanks along the length.
Workpiece size:

To ensure all brackets are the same, you can use a steel strip bending tool or a steel pipe of the correct size as a template. It is also recommended to fill nails on a thick board in the desired sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
After shaping, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with rust paint - it is more durable. The brackets are attached in several ways:

Brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:

Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

The first are the two extreme brackets, between which the required slope is maintained.
The two outer brackets are attached first.
A cord is pulled between the fixed brackets, and along this line, places are outlined for attaching all other elements.
The brackets are screwed to the base with a pitch of 550–600 mm.
A distance of 5–6 cm is maintained between the brackets.
Plastic adapters or funnels of the future drain are mounted next. One funnel is capable of collecting water from 120 m of the roof.
The hole for installing the funnel is cut with a hacksaw
Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to correctly connect the joints. They are attached with glue or docked using special aluminum clips. In the case of docking, the use of a sealant is mandatory. Bracket mounting height varies by region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it wherever it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that the snow coming down from the roof does not carry the gutter with it.
The gutters are joined with clips or put on glue
When the gutters are assembled and rest on the brackets, the adapter pipes made of solid pieces of pipes are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before that, they are treated with a sealant. At the upper end of the drain system, a plug is always installed.
The plug is installed on a rubber seal

Video: installing eaves brackets

Installation of external drainage pipes

Assembling the downpipes looks the same as connecting the gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed on the sealant between the segments. The process requires adherence to a number of rules:

the drainpipe should extend 10 cm from the wall;
for fastening to walls, you need to use clamps;
the pipe should be mounted from top to bottom;
Insert the upper section into the funnel and secure with sealant.

If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to the storm drain adapter. It is recommended to replace it with a knee, under which a container for flowing water is placed.

The installation of the downpipe must be carried out in accordance with the rules

It is recommended to additionally protect the finished gutter from littering by installing a building mesh twisted into a roll in the gutters. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe from which the grooves are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clips.

The gutter can be protected with a mesh made of different materials

Video: drainage from sewer pipes

Homemade galvanized steel gutter

The creation of a drainage system made of galvanized steel requires certain knowledge and skill. Typically, 0.5–0.7 mm roofing sheet steel is used. It should not be less than 270 g per sq. m.

Instruments

You need to prepare:

scissors for metal;
marker for marking;
hammer and mallet;
pliers.

Making a pipe from tin

Pipes are a simple element of a drainage system and are very easy to make at home. For work, galvanized steel sheets or thin sheet metal are suitable. The manufacturing method for these materials is the same.

Steel pipe is easy to make by yourself

Step-by-step instruction

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Calculation of the amount of materials and their purchase.
The weight of the steel sheet must be at least 270 g per sq. m
A sheet of metal laid on a flat surface is cut to fit the gutters and pipes of the future drain. The width of the workpiece for the pipe should have a margin of one and a half centimeters for joining the edges. A fold line is also applied - on one side at a distance of 0.5 cm, and on the other - 1 cm. Before shaping, the workpiece can be painted to extend its service life.
To make the downpipe last longer, it can be painted
With the help of pliers, the pattern is bent from the smaller side at an angle, and from the larger side - the letter G.
The metal is leveled with a mallet at a right angle. The sides of the workpiece are connected, and the smaller part should go into the larger one.
A cylindrical or semi-cylindrical shape of the workpiece can be made manually using a template. A sheet of metal is laid on a pipe or log of the required diameter and tapped with a mallet.
You can also shape the drain pipe with your own hands.

Installation of gutters made of steel

The principles of the device of the drainage system made of galvanized metal are similar to the installation of a drainage system made of plastic pipes. But there are also differences:

After determining the starting point, the gutter brackets are mounted.
Metal gutters are overlapped with a length of 7-10 cm. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. Holes for funnels are cut with metal scissors.
The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
The pipes are fixed with clamps.
The ebb is attached to the bottom of the pipe.
An anti-icing system is being installed.

Video: metal gutter construction

Drainage from plastic bottles

The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from a plastic container. It will be easy to accumulate the required amount of such material, but the construction will require 1.5-liter straight-shaped bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

Bottled plastic gutter is quick and cheap to assemble

Tools and materials for work

It is worth preparing:

furniture stapler and staples 10–12 mm;
construction knife;
drill or screwdriver;
thin drill;
wire;
awl;
plastic containers.

Step-by-step instructions for making an ebb from plastic bottles

The first step is to calculate the length of the future drain. For convenience, you can draw a sketch. The functional part of the bottle will be 15–20 cm. This plastic is not suitable for long (more than 5 m) structures.
The bottles are cleaned of stickers and labels.
Then the bottom and the neck are cut off from the plastic container in the place where the upper part narrows. For the gutter, the resulting cylinder is sawn in half.
The plastic bottle needs to be prepared in order to make a drainage out of it.
The gutter is assembled from plastic rectangles using a stapler. The plastic is overlapped (1.5 cm) and fixed with two or three brackets. The bottoms are used as plugs for rotary structures.
You need to fasten the parts of the bottles for the gutter with a stapler
The resulting light gutter is attached to the roof. To do this, holes are drilled in the slate or other roofing material at a distance of 20-30 cm. Similar holes in the gutter are made with a screwdriver or an ordinary awl. Next, a wire is passed through the holes, which attaches the weir to the roof.
The drainage system is also easily constructed from bottles. We cut off the neck of one of them, and from the rest we make the already familiar cylinders. A bottle with a cut-off neck will act as an adapter - you will need to make a hole in it for the edge of the gutter.
A ready-made construction from plastic bottles will last about a year

The finished structure will last at least a year, but then you have to take care of creating a more perfect system.

Video: plastic bottle gutter

It is obvious that self-construction of a drainage system is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

A drain is a structure designed to drain melt and storm water from the roof, which is necessary to protect the building from decay, corrosion, and any mechanical damage. At the moment, construction stores are simply overflowing with various materials for the construction of a drain for every taste, but some owners do not want to overpay for a structure that can be made by hand.

Option of the mounted galvanized roof gutter

It turns out that making a drainage system with your own hands is not so difficult, besides, it looks quite original when properly constructed.

The drain performs several functions at once:

Usually, the gutter is made of plastic or metal. In most cases, the gutter system is made of galvanized steel sheets - this is one of the most affordable options.

They are distinguished by their beauty and lightness, but they have little strength. This becomes extremely noticeable in the winter season, when accumulated water freezes in the drain, which can lead to damage or destruction of the entire structure.

If you are going to make a gutter with your own hands, then it is best to make it out of painted metal.

Options for the gutter device made of metal and plastic

Such a drain will be quite practical and reliable under any conditions of use. Naturally, the gutter must be matched to the color scheme of the building's roof.

If, however, it is best to install a drain made of polyvinyl chloride, since there is a crumb of stone on such a coating that can damage the metal elements of the structure. You can also create a gutter from copper sheets. A gutter made from this material will look pretty good, but it will cost you a pretty penny.

At the moment, there are several types of drainage systems:

External drain, which is located outside the building.
Internal drain located in the middle of the building.

A homemade gutter is more convenient and easier to install from the outside of the building.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a drain

The internal type of drainage system should be provided at the design stage of the building. Usually, such a drain is installed on, which are located in rather harsh climatic conditions.

Now let's figure out what is included in the drainage system.

Gutter (provides reception of rainwater, and its diameter is directly dependent on the slope area).
Pipe (for draining storm water into the drainage system).
Funnel, or simply - a storm inlet (provides a connection between the pipe and the gutter).
Turns and corners that allow you to bypass the building and its protruding parts, or to install the pipe in the required place.
Plugs (necessary in places where it is impossible to install a funnel).
Fasteners for pipes and gutters.

DIY gutter system

Of course, most often people purchase and install ready-made structures. Today there are many options for making a drain with your own hands from various scrap materials. Such a decision is most often based not on a desire to save money, but for the purpose of decorating a private house.

It is a great idea to make a gutter out of wood, but subject to the right choice and processing. This stormwater drainage system will serve you for over ten years. Wood species such as pine, fir and larch are suitable.

Some craftsmen make gutters even from plastic bottles, but they won't last as long as wooden ones.

It is very rare, due to the negative impact on human health, but a stormwater drainage system made of lead is always found.

Construction drawing with dimensions of roof gutter

Although it is quite practical, its significant drawback reduces its prevalence.

The winner among all is the gutter made of galvanized steel, as it is notable for its low cost and harmlessness. But it is quite difficult to process and its service life does not exceed ten years. When it comes to durability, there is no equal to a gutter made of ceramic parts, as its service life reaches centuries.

In order to make a drain from galvanized steel sheets with your own hands, you will need:

metal scissors (if you will make a metal stormwater drainage system);
hammer;
marker for marking on a sheet of metal;
galvanized steel sheets (approximately 0.5 millimeters thick);
pliers.

Layout of gutters around the building

Please note that the width of the workpiece must necessarily exceed the pipe diameter by one and a half centimeters, because this difference is necessary to connect the edges of the sheet. First of all, you need to make a pattern on a metal sheet. Draw a straight line on the workpiece, on one side it will be half a centimeter, and on the other - a centimeter.

After that, you need to bend the sheet of metal using pliers, and the side that is smaller - at a slight angle, and the remaining one - at an angle of ninety degrees. After that, we wrap the higher edge and connect the edges of our workpiece, the smaller side should go into the larger one.

Installation process for gutter brackets

Now you need to make a gutter for the drainage system, and for this you need special equipment, but you can try to do it manually, although the effect will not be the same. So, first you will need to cut out a workpiece from a pipe or wood, and then put a metal sheet on it and, using a mallet, try to give it the required shape.

We determine the starting point, which is located at the maximum height.
Install the gutter bracket.
We carry out the fastening of the gutter.
We install a funnel, which should be located at the lowest point between the brackets.
We connect the funnel to the pipe (if necessary, we do this with the help of an angled gutter).
We fix the drain pipe with clamps.
We fix the drain at the bottom of the pipe.
We install a drainage de-icing system.

The system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into the storm sewer, or at least further from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, therefore it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating the lathing for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve fixing the drainage systems after roofing work. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the decision is facilitated by the fact that the manufacturers of drainage systems, having foreseen various cases in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, make them in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only material available for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, by the way, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" gutters quickly became very popular among buyers.

Since consumers often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, there are a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be noted right away that each from materials from which gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

Plastic gutter system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide fastening surface, so they fit snugly against the wind board and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices for structures made of other materials - this can be called the most significant of their disadvantages.

with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. Systems withstand external natural influences well, they look very elegant outwardly, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with a polymer protective coating are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Need extra care when assembling and handling fasteners.

Galvanized steel sheet gutters are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly do with how bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can also casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters for buildings with a certain design solution are made - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of the already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets of different designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to do it by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install the gutters after the roof has been covered?

Now it is necessary to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances can force the installation of the drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

This process itself, exactly in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the eaves of the roof. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, therefore they plan to fix the drainage gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
Forced fixing of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
Highly widespread the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and worn out - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they must be fixed to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along eaves

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the right model will depend on the place and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and versatile:

Long hooks are most commonly used for securing under roofing to decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid sheathing.
The short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the frontal board or on the wall of the building. This type of hooks is installed both before laying the roof covering on the rafter system, and after the roof has been equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of brackets is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be much lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible structure that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid down, and after this process. The adjustable length allows them to be used both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a wall-mounted roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets to the elements of the rafter system:

On the rafter legs, both on the front and on the top or side of them.
On the wind (frontal) board.
Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (smallpox) of the solid sheathing.
To the edge of the roof covering.

The first way is to rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, support long-legged hooks that if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or they can be left straight. In addition to them, for the installation of drainage systems in this case, sometimes universal brackets are also used.

Fastening hooks to boards (sheets) of lathing

If the roofing has already been installed, for example, if the old drainage system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the lower row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material lends itself to dismantling without breaking the integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is equipped, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood covering. The next step is to return the bituminous tile or roofing material to its original position and fix it to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in securing the hooks to their lateral beams. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent, unfolded mounting platform - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs have a sufficiently large cross-sectional size, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, overlapping ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water overflow may occur in case of heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to make a fitting, which will show whether this installation method is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of the type of bracket will depend on this parameter.

Suitable for installing the drainage system on the frontal board:

Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has big enough width. These holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

The short brackets are designed for attaching them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood grains.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the area of the mounting pad, so they will hold the gutter firmly.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the position of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be dispensed with, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Bracket prices

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holding brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on from the side of the profile and moved along the guide, with an arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is bounced on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each running meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the place where the first bracket is installed.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (some manufacturers' systems allow a larger step - this is stipulated in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such a markup, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roof covering.

This method is applicable for installing a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material... The fastening of the hooks-holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to secure some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, at least 50 mm away from its edge. Others have a construction that does not require drilling in the roof as they are clamped along the edge of the roof. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave coverage, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to put rubber gaskets under the metal fastening lugs of the clamp, both on the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be altered by yourself, bending them in the right way, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option all the load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to attach the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This method of fastening sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roof covering without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof, or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on an already covered slope, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely positioned soffit if it is of a suitable width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the soffit surface, by analogy with the picture shown above.
If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the corresponding diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the funnel of the downspout is ensured.

The pull-up pendant mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes this design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a bushing with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or frontal plate.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the chute must be closed from above with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water with roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of inclination of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store for it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge in heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if you purchase a pipe of not large enough diameter, it may not cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - to the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. On this score, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the eaves of the ramp is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. With longer eaves, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram with the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, the gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, in the lower part of which the downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two gutters sloping towards the corners of the structure, where the gutters are installed.

Slope of the gutter gutters should be 3 ÷ 5 mm for each running meter of the gutter length.

Now it is worthwhile to figure out what dimensions of the gutter and drainage pipe must be selected, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m2	Chute section, mm.	The cross-section of the downspout with a slope of the gutter in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	The cross-section of the downspout with a slope of the gutter in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60 ÷ 100	115	87	-
80 ÷ 130	125	110	-
120 ÷ 200	150	-	87
160 ÷ 220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, gutter pipe 110 mm
The size of the catchment area, m2
95	148	240	205	165	370
48	74	120	100	82	180
42	50	95	80	65	145

Gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having figured out the principles and methods of installing the drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets-holders for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

Plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket, used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically these parts will be needed in two-pipe gutter systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
The plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on both sides of the gutter.
Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drainpipe.
Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and in the lower part to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, thanks to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters into, then the elbows may not be used at all.
Brackets for fixing the downpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and downpipe holders will be attached.

Brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and choose the optimal installation pitch.
Brackets-clamps for holding downpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. Two or one of them can be installed on each slope.
Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they must be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always use the surplus.

For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and a roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of the drainage system

Tools required for the job

A few words must be said about the tools that will be required to carry out the installation of the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may differ depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not turn out very neat and it will have to be cleaned.
Shears for cutting sheet metal.
Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
A hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for installing brackets-clamps for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
A rubber mallet (mallet) is required when installing the plugs.
Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
Reliable stepladder or scaffolding - for convenience and safety.

Metal hacksaw prices

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a "grinder" (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When cutting with a grinder, the metal or plastic heats up a lot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cutting area of the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymer protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, making the metal virtually unprotected against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the craftsmen and cut the details. drains only with tools that indicated above.

We believe that everything you need to install the drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing cake is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the gutter is to fix the short holders on the wind board. And It should be noted that many roofers find short hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

The short holders do not need to be bent as they are ready for installation.
If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roof covering. Therefore, the work can be done independently without calling the masters.
The cost of the short brackets is slightly lower than the price of the long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of the drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the gutter brackets must be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a drainage arrangement scheme. In this case, a system with one funnel and a drainpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The layout begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50 ÷ 100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Further, a nail is driven into this point, so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the upper edge of the frontal board to the hammered nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the windboard, where the downspout is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To make things easier, you can use a tinted paint cord. Tied to the nail, the cord is stretched along the length of the windboard to the mark made on the opposite side of it.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific slope value, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact slope length. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line from the horizontal, the found value is measured, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and the inclined line is beaten off. The markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and a cord is already tied to it. The rest of the actions are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the marked line. So, the crosshairs of the projection from the horizontal to the inclined line, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point of the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them, you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed on so that they come into contact with the cord in the same way as the outer brackets.
	After the holders have been screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and the hooks must be checked again that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width so that water will flow directly into the gutter without overlapping its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roof covering and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered lower, the water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the cover, forms a cork in the groove of the gutter. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since, if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to the previously drawn up scheme, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Further, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the pipe diameter. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly bent outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative metal coating as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooks onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "ears" that must be bent inward of the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, you get the most reliable fastening of two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. Such a modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is the cutting of seals for the side gutter plug with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be flexible enough, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. The seals can be supplied with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately in the same stores where the gutters are sold.
	Further, the sealant must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will adjoin the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration, the second side of this gutter will be joined with another segment that goes beyond the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, for which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into the seat.
	Instead of a rubber seal, a roofing sealant can be used, which is applied before installing the plug on the edge of the gutter. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined from the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that some masters, for greater reliability, use both components for sealing, that is, first install the sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets fixed to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements are required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. After installing the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press on it so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in the brackets, a retainer is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent chute, when installed from the side of the funnel, is wound inside the previously installed one - this will ensure a free drain of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on over its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter, it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the gutter joint is covered from the inside with the same roofing sealant. Apply the sealant in a thin layer and then smooth it with your finger, as it should not obstruct the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if provided by the project. The first one, described above, is the latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the retainer to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, in order to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of household tools, he will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the others and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed to the roof covering or to the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to bend slightly. Metal strips can be cut from the remnants of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, hooks are additionally screwed onto the wind board between the brackets to hold the gutters, which only engage on the rear edge. These elements will remove some of the load not only from the holding brackets, but also from the guy wires.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the gutter. The first step in the funnel installed on the gutter is to mount an elbow, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since the standard clamp holder is designed approximately for this parameter.
	The elbow is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two bends. To the resulting value, add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee installed on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on the second side of it. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leaks of the system at the joints of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must go inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm of the resulting size will go to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard pipe length, like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be reinforced with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but below it by 100 mm. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are attached to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. To make one section of the pipe easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly due to bends that can be made with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will crack immediately if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the pipe installation, a lower elbow is put on and fixed with a bracket on its lower edge. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ 300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drain pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And quite often the pipe is completely included in the storm water inlet.

So, the methods of installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of the calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent will approach the specifics of the roof structure, suit the master in terms of the complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

You can eliminate the problem of damp walls and a damp foundation if you assemble roof gutters with your own hands.

Why is it needed?

In the absence of a properly organized drainage system, precipitation from the roof flows down to the ground near the house, which leads to the destruction of the tiles around the house, and the building façade gets wet. You can avoid such problems if you install a well-organized drainage system. A correctly calculated and correctly installed drain keeps the foundation and walls of the building intact, significantly extending the service life of other structural elements.

A high-quality gutter system combines the following qualities:

reliability;
durability;
attractive appearance.

Having studied in detail all the pros and cons of operating all types of gutters, everyone will make the right decision for themselves.

Galvanized steel gutter. Of the advantages, it is worth noting the low cost. Among the disadvantages is the fragility of the material. This type of watercourse is very easy to damage, for example when cleaning ice with a crowbar.
Gutters made of polymeric materials are modern systems that are resistant to negative external factors, perfectly complement roofs covered with metal tiles, creating a single ensemble. Harmonious ensemble. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the high level of noise when passing through the troughs of a large volume of precipitation.
Zinc-titanium gutters covered with polymer paints. Amazing resistance to any external influences, strength and durability makes such gutters attractive to consumers. The only thing that stops is the rather high cost.

What is included in the gutter system

Chute.
Downpipes.
Plugs.
Couplings.
Funnels.
Knees.
Brackets
Clamps with pins.

DIY options

Adhering to a clear work algorithm, the gutter, assembled independently, will in no way be inferior in quality to the gutter made by specialists - professionals.

The first thing to do is draw up a small drawing.

Depending on the number of roof slopes, there are different gutter installation schemes.

Next, the first hook for the gutter is fixed at the beginning of the roof overhang. After the desired slope of the gutter has been determined (as a rule, this parameter is no more than 2 cm per meter), the most extreme hook for the eaves is fixed. Pulling a rope between them, they indicate the places of fixation of all other hooks (a step of no more than 6 cm).

At the edges of the gutter, plugs with rubber gaskets are attached. All joints are carefully coated with silicone sealant.

All other gutter elements are mounted on pre-fixed hooks.

At the lowest point of the gutter, a drain hole is cut into which a drain funnel will be mounted later.

The gutters are connected into a single structure with locks and joints.

A drain funnel is installed.

Vertical downpipes are attached to the wall, the lower elbow of which should not reach the ground by 30 cm.

Design and calculation rules

When designing an external drainage system, it is important to adhere to certain conditions:

gutters are mounted on roofs, the slope angle of which is no more than 15C;
the average height of the sides is 12cm.

The calculation is carried out according to the following formula: one funnel per 0.75 sq. M. roof and 1 cm2 drain pipes.

How to correctly calculate the number of gutters and pipes

When calculating the external drainage scheme, it is important to examine the entire facade of the building for protruding parts and other architectural features.

The calculation of the height of the gutter is determined depending on the angle of the roof slope.

The calculation is based on the following indicators: height from the ground to the eaves * 0.2 - the height of the pipe bend + the height of the funnel. The resulting value is divided by the length of the downpipe (on average 3-4 meters).

DIY installation features

Do-it-yourself installation of a drain is a complex process that requires strict adherence to certain rules. The first thing to do is calculate the bandwidth.

The layout of all elements of the future drain depends on this indicator. It is also necessary to clearly know the area of the roof and the house, the method of fixing all the elements of the drain.

All parts must be of the same type and size, which ensures high-quality performance and durability of the installed system.

By connecting several downpipes together, it is better to treat the joints with silicone sealant. It is he who provides excellent sealing of joints in case of sudden temperature changes.
All work on the installation of gutters is recommended to be carried out under the condition of the air temperature not lower than -5C.
Upon completion of the installation of the drainage system, a check must be carried out. To do this, it is enough to pour several buckets of water into the pipes.
Every year, before the beginning of winter, pipes and trays must be cleaned from fallen leaves, branches and dirt.

It's important to know: do not clean the pipes with wire brushes. Their use violates the integrity of the upper protective layer. Cleaning is best done with a soft broom or high-pressure water jet.

Make sure that the central axis of the gutter is exactly aligned with the edge of the eaves. Otherwise, overflow of precipitation is possible.

Output

Installing a drainage system on the roof with your own hands is a laborious event. But professional advice and strict adherence to the work algorithm will help to do everything efficiently and quickly.

For instructions on installing gutters with your own hands, see the following video: