Repair of plastic products. Plastic repair, plastic soldering, plastic parts repair. Repair of plastic using soldering

Plastic repair inMoscow and the region professionally. We provide services for the repair of plastic tanks, containers, galvanic baths and products of any configuration, size and shape. We carry out repair work at the place of order. In some cases, urgent repairs are possible!

Plastic repair in Moscow and the Moscow region: types of work

Tank repair

Almost any plastic containers are subject to repair: fuel tanks, gas tanks, expansion tanks, gas tanks of tractors, tanks for water and reagents, tanks for sprinklers, diesel tanks from JCB and other manufacturers, construction, watering and other equipment.

Urgent repair of a polyethylene tank or polypropylene container in Moscow - on the same day

Tank repair

It often happens that plastic containers leak, crack and begin to leak water. If this happens, we can send a specialist to the place of breakdown - in Moscow or in any other region of Russia. The master will repair the problem capacity as soon as possible. We repair polyethylene water tanks, containers for chemicals, polypropylene containers.

Repair of polypropylene electroplating baths

Elimination or correction of damage to electroplating baths is also included in the spectrum of our capabilities.

Septic tank repair

Modern septic tanks in Russia are made from polyethylene or polypropylene. During the operation of septic tanks, difficulties periodically arise: leaks, holes caused by ground shifts, squeezed out the wall of the septic tank, you need to increase the neck due to improper installation, weld the pipe into the septic tank, install a partition or other problems. Call us, we will send a specialist for repair and advise you on how best to carry out repair work.

Soldering ABS plastic

Our plastic repair department in Moscow often encounters orders for the repair of plastic bumpers, motorcycle plastic, plastic parts of cars, motorcycles, ATVs and other units. Several technologies are used in the repair of such plastics. We will determine the optimal and correctly, taking into account the selected technology, carry out work on the restoration of parts.

Tank repair

Storage tanks also need maintenance and repair. Often, water or reagent tanks will tear or crack. This happens for various reasons: due to temperature differences, during transportation, or due to residual stresses in the plastic.

If there is a crack, hole or other damage in the tank, it is not necessary to discard or replace the tank with a new one, you can repair it. This will save money and time.

A crack in a gas tank, cracks in plastic tanks, or cracks in plastic are easy to fix. To do this, you need to know the material of the plastic. Our specialists will help to determine the brand of plastic, and then they will repair the fuel tank, diesel tank or plastic tank for water (or reagents).

Urgent repair of the gas tank - with minor damage, the tank is soldered in an hour... If the damage is serious - from one to two days.

If you cannot determine a leak in the tank, bring it to our base in Moscow for inspection, we will determine the place of the tank leak and fix the problem.

Prices for plastic repair in Moscow and the Moscow region

Prices for the repair of plastic products depend on the complexity of the work.

In the repair we use the method of extrusion welding of plastic, this is the most reliable and durable technology. Other methods of restoration (using a rod, mechanical clamps, gluing, etc.) are unreliable and short-lived in operation.

Often we need to glue a broken or cracked plastic product - from the shackle of glasses to the bumper of a car. You may also need to glue the hook in the bathroom or the holder for the garden spray. The essence of the bonding process is to dissolve the surface layer of two blanks and form a layer of plastic from this solution, common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, "stick together tightly."

Determine the type of plastic

in order to reliably glue the plastic, first of all, you need to find out what kind of plastic the item is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.

All manufacturers mark their plastic products with the symbol of recycling - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing the reuse of materials.

The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often, numbers are supplemented with an abbreviation. These designations determine the type of plastic.

What does marking on plastic mean?

• PET low pressure polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packaging or packaging food. It is produced in the form of a film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
• HDPE is a compacted low pressure polyethylene. Used for the release of shrink wrap and packaging bags.
• V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride is a non-food plastic used for the manufacture of strong and durable items such as household buckets, metal-plastic window frames, linoleum.
• LDPE High pressure low density polyethylene. It is used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, pipes for cold water.
• PP polypropylene. Plastics are chemically inactive, heat-resistant (up to 150 ° C), and are most widely used in the production of medical products, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
• PS polystyrene. Also food grade plastic is used for making disposable dishes, household utensils, and kitchen utensils. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - polystyrene used in everyday life and in construction work.
• O Other - non-recyclable materials such as those containing metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.

PS - polystyrene

In order to reliably glue the plastic, you need to carefully consider the markings on the product and choose an adhesive designed for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. To apply this method reliably at home, you need to acquire considerable experience.

Adhesive marking

Tubes with glue are also marked, it is a pity that the designation system does not always coincide with the designations in the triangle on the plastic product. Most often, the following symbols can be seen on the tube:

• PC - polycarbonate (used for covering greenhouses and sheds).
• ABS is a copolymer of acrylonitrile.
• PP polypropylene.
• PPMA organic glass for general use.
• PE is the familiar polyethylene.
• PVC is another familiar one - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
• PS - polystyrene.
• PA 66 is polyamide.
• PUR polyurethane.

If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then, most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must necessarily be attached to the tube, which plastics can be glued to them.

Types of adhesives

The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their use.

How to glue plastic

To dissolve the surface layer of a material, it is necessary to break the chemical bonds between the molecules. For this, special substances are used, strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and it may not even leave a trace on material from another group. Each adhesive is based on such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:

• a hardener to help dry it;
• filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the glue is intended.

One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to bond polystyrene and plexiglass.

Depending on the method of application, the funds are divided into several groups:

• liquid;
• contact;
• reactionary;
• hot melt adhesives.

Liquid

Liquids are widespread in everyday life, they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic with a porous structure. They are available in both organic solvent and water based. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient for the base to evaporate. After that, the adhesive layer hardens, forming a connecting seam. A typical example is PVA glue; it can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.

Contact

Bonding takes place in two stages:

• the surfaces to be glued are lubricated with a thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of the plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
• after a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.

This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can be used to glue polystyrene and other plastics at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and do not allow drops to get on the skin or mucous membranes.

Reactionary

One-component reactive agents dissolve the material to be bonded very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are such well-known brands as Secunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and tough.

Two-component components consist, respectively, of two components stored separately from each other:

• hardener;
• fixer.

The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to surfaces where the mixture hardens to form a compound. The base is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home is very durable. A characteristic feature is that full hardening takes a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and fragility.

Hot melt adhesives

This group includes substances that show their properties when heated to 110-120 ° C. For use, a special glue gun with a heating element is required. Differs in the accuracy of application. In addition to plastic, they can glue wood, fabric, paper at home.

How to glue plastic tightly at home

After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, you should:

• thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be glued. To do this, use alcohol, degreaser or soap solution (only laundry soap);
• to glue objects more reliably, you need to increase the wettability. To do this, treat the surfaces with a velvet file or a thin sandpaper;
• mix two-component reactive substances only after completing the preparation of parts;
• do not use brushes with natural bristles;
• Apply so much adhesive that when pressing the blanks, the excess is not squeezed out of the bonding zone.

The parts should be pressed so as to exclude their displacement in the plane of gluing relative to each other.

How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts

For gluing plastic at home to give the maximum effect, you should:

• accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
• carefully follow the requirements of the instructions for use;
• wait for the allotted time for the strength of the seam and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
• for outdoor use or for items used in high humidity conditions, you need to choose a waterproof grade;
• despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
• if there is no marking on the product, then you can try to drop a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.

Epoxy adhesive provides one of the strongest bonds and is compatible with many types of plastics.

What affects the reliability of gluing

A number of conditions affect the reliability of the seam. All of them are important, and non-observance of any one can lead to the fact that the glued at home will fall off, despite the observance of all the others. So:

1. Compliance of product material and adhesive.
2. Correspondence of the type of adhesive to the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. The direction of action of these efforts is no less important. So, compounds that give rigid seams are not suitable for repairs, for example, shoes - after all, the sole will bend and twist during operation, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, with this composition, you can successfully glue, say, a hook to the glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
3. Compliance with application technology. Everything is important here - and how many seconds or minutes the surfaces need to be squeezed, and how to degrease them, and how much to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular pair of "plastic-glue", is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A second deviation in the holding time or premature use of the product may lead to secondary damage.
4. The mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly clean the surface from dust and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts against each other should be perpendicular to the surfaces to be glued. It is impossible to allow mutual displacement of parts after pressing - this will also lead to failure.

Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Careful adherence to simple rules by a home craftsman will allow you to get strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale the vapors of the adhesive and do not allow it to get into food, on the skin or mucous membranes. If accidentally swallowed, you should immediately consult a doctor, be sure to take a tube with you.

October 8, 2018
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, decoration of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

My victories

Look at the number of things that could have been just thrown away, and which I saved from this fate by giving them a second chance:

• glasses;
• chairs;
• buckets;
• kitchen containers;
• toys;
• cabinet and refrigerator handles;
• hair brushes;
• hangers;
• sandals;
• car parts;
• electronic cabinets;
• badges and many other items.

The list is endless. So let's find out how they can be welded, and for that I need to tell you about a soldering technique that is suitable for most cases.

Soldering technique

In most cases, you only need:

1. Soldering iron. Simple flat tip used in tin solder electronics.
2. Respirator. To protect the respiratory system from plastic gases (a fume hood is the best solution).

If your plastic is thin, a piece is missing, or needs to be liquid-sealed or electrical safety restored, you may also need to:

1. Disposable plastic strips.
2. Paperclip or wire.
3. Superglue, solder clips, or some other way to hold the parts in place as you weld them.

Important! Some plastics, when exposed to sunlight, break quite easily and collapse on their own. In these cases, welding will not help.

Preparing a soldering iron

• Models with a temperature controller. There are many types of soldering irons and soldering stations. In addition to the usual classic ones, there are a number of models for which you can set the desired temperature. If the plastic is heated too much, it can lose its original properties, weaken and break. Also, exposure to high temperatures causes the formation of toxic fumes.
• Flat tip models. A flat tip is best for soldering plastic. But if it is not there, you can flatten the existing one. This can be done by first tapping it with a hammer, and then squeezing it in a vice.

Preparing additional material

Is your plastic too thin or has holes? Then it is necessary to use plastic parts to add material to the original plastic. The best option is to use strips of plastic of the same type that you are welding.

But if this is not possible, the photos above show simple solutions to this problem:

• cut from thin plastic parts such as shampoo bottles, pet bottles, etc .;
• use plastic zippers or plastic cable ties for wiring;
• remove the rim from the PET bottles.

I reinforce the details

Although very strong plastic welds will be made during the repair process, in some cases even a slight DC voltage can break the repaired item again.

To avoid this:

• I fasten the most loaded areas with the metal staples of a construction stapler.
• I solder perpendicular plastic amplifiers.
• I reinforce the seams with thick wire.
• Putting on aluminum foil amps from beer cans.

I fix the details

If there are difficulties in soldering, then it is necessary to securely fix the parts to be welded. To do this, you can use special soldering clamps or superglue to temporarily connect them in place before soldering.

Protecting the respiratory system

Here are some tips to avoid the harmful effects of smoke:

• Use a respirator.
• Solder at head level and above (smoke will go up, bypassing the respiratory system).
• Use any fan as an exhaust fan.
• Using a soldering iron with a heating control, when smoke appears, reduce the temperature.
• As an alternative to a regulator soldering iron, you can connect the plug to a voltage regulator to reduce the power and temperature of the tip.

Gloves and glasses:

• Gloves can protect you from scalding - some soldering irons reach temperatures around 600 ° C.
• Remember to protect the lenses of your plastic glasses from accidental heating with a heat-resistant clear coat. It is best to use glasses with glass lenses.

I'm starting to solder

The secret to a successful repair is to melt the plastic at the fracture so that both melted parts join together, literally welding themselves together. This is how I do it:

1. I put the tip of the soldering iron in the place of the break.
2. I nudge it forward a little to form a molten plastic mass along the rift.
3. I repeat this again after the last formed part to make another mass next to the previous one.
4. The result is a good weld bead, reminiscent of metal welds.

When the fixed parts are too thin or to fill in any missing part, I usually add more plastic:

• I place the plastic strip over the piece that will be secured.
• I warm it up with a soldering iron until the parts to be soldered and the strip begin to melt.
• I press the strip into the crack and lead the soldering iron further along the welding site.
• I add metal amplifiers if necessary to make the soldering stronger. This should be done at the moment when the plastic is melted - press the metal until it enters the plastic.

Important! Be sure to check the other side to make sure no metal has gone right through the plastic. If this happens, you will have to cover the other side with plastic.

Finishing. After completing a weld, sometimes you want to refine it to make it less noticeable. To do this, I go through the top with a soldering iron, smoothing out the nodules.

Testing. First, I let the product cool down, and then I proceed to testing the welds. A good test is to use it in extreme situations, such as sitting on a chair, or maybe jumping a little.

Here is a list of my recent trials:

• The plastic box that was in some of the pictures above proved to be quite weak. A simple fall from a low height broke it, so I had to redo the job 4 times, adding 8 metal amplifiers, until the box was strong enough.
• Lid for a kitchen container made of PET. I managed to fix this breakage in 1 time - I could not break it with my hands.
• The PVC tube also became very strong after it was fixed, even through rigorous tests with it.

Advice! What if the seam bursts again during the test? Do the job again, but add more metal and plastic to melt it deeper.

Cartola shared his experience from instructables.com

October 8, 2018

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

You will need

• - soldering iron or glue;
• - acetone;
• - sponge;
• - emery;
• - fiberglass;
• - solder wire;
• - clamp or masking tape;
• - fittings;
• - primer for plastic;
• - dye;
• - varnish.

Instructions

Find out the composition of the plastic - its marking should be indicated on the wrong side of the product (for example, PA - polyamide or PP -). It is important to study the properties of this material, since the type will depend on this - gluing or welding. Polymers-thermoplastics (plexiglass, polyethylene, polypropylene and others) are easily recyclable. But you will not be able to melt the so-called thermosets (they include phenol-formaldehyde, epoxy and other resins and fillers). You will need special glue.

Select an adhesive in the building material, epoxy for this type of plastic and consult with a competent seller. Follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly. Sand the surfaces to be glued, clean them from dirt and degrease with acetone. You can glue the gap directly along the seam, or pre-strengthen it with fiberglass.

Use a solder wire of the same chemical composition to solder the leaky plastic part. Sand the working parts with sandpaper a centimeter from the edge, since the part to be welded will have to step over the left allowance for the strength of the seam. Collect the broken plastic and fix them with a clamp (fixing tool) or masking tape.

Start thin plastic from the "face" so that an ugly bump does not appear on the visible surface. You can repair plastic of a denser composition immediately from the wrong side. Run a soldering iron along the crack; apply solder and melt it into the thickness of the softened material. Thicker wire can be used from the turn of work.

Some craftsmen combine plastic soldering with reinforcement (reinforcement of the structure). For this, it is recommended to purchase a special brass or bronze mesh (about 0.2 mm in thickness). Cut the reinforcing material into strips of the desired size. Your task is to attach the amplifier to the inner surface of the chip and (heating the plastic with a soldering iron) drown it in the molten material.

Prepare for cosmetic repairs to plastic. The glued or sealed surface must be washed, sanded with sandpaper no. 1000 and wiped with acetone.

Shake the can of plastic primer, shake it for 10 minutes and apply to the damaged part from a distance of 20 cm. If the packaging has other instructions, be sure to follow the manufacturer's advice. Cover the plastic with 2-3 layers of primer (depending on the depth of damage), let it dry and again go over the product with emery and acetone.

The final stage in the repair of plastic will be the spraying of a special dye. Make sure it is designed specifically for this material. Apply the required number of decorative layers; let the previous coat dry for 15-20 minutes before each new coat. If necessary, an hour after painting, cover the product with varnish. You managed to repair the plastic, however, until it dries completely, it must be protected from dust and other contaminants.

Plastic repair is professional in Moscow, the repair time is from 15 minutes.

We repair plastics of almost any brands, plastic products of various shapes and configurations.

Breakage of plastic products is a fairly common problem these days. Many plastic products crack, break and become unusable during operation. Plastic welding will help in restoring broken parts, or as this process is also called - plastic soldering.

Soldering plastic is a process that requires careful preparation, specialist experience and a correct assessment of the maintainability of the product. If you do not follow all the features of the technology, then the seam will turn out to be brittle and will not withstand even minor loads.

How to repair a plastic part? There are several methods for welding. One of them is hot air rod welding. For each repaired product, a certain welding temperature is selected, otherwise the surfaces simply will not adhere to each other. Correctly selected temperature is not the main thing in the repair, you need to carefully prepare the surfaces, cut the edges in a special way and clean the surface.

There are several ways to repair a crack in plastic. To determine the technology for welding plastic, you need to know the nature of the damage and the material of the plastic. Soldering a crack in plastic can take from 1 to several hours. The process of welding a plastic product must take place in exact accordance with temperature and other factors, it is quite problematic to repair the plastic yourself, there is a possibility of overheating the plastic part and making it non-repairable.

Another repair method is the extrusion method. This is the most effective technique that allows products to continue to operate tightly and under stress. Not all products can be repaired by extrusion welding, sometimes the thickness of the material or its properties make it possible to repair only using the bar method. To start work, you need to determine the material from which the part is made, then select the method of production of work and start restoring the broken product. Each polymer (and there are many varieties of them) has its own melting point; therefore, for repairs, you need to select the temperature regime individually for each product.

If the question arose how to repair a crack in plastic? - contact us, we will be happy to help carry out the repair.

The restoration of plastic parts is carried out only by professional specialists, which guarantees full compliance with the technology. In our work, we use certified material for the restoration of plastic products and parts.