Raspberry stem fly control. Raspberry stem fly - how to fight, how to protect the raspberry crop. Folk methods of struggle: Bordeaux liquid

Gardeners and gardeners always have a lot to do to save the crop. It is a common practice that for every plant there is at least one pest. There is such a "personal" enemy and raspberry bushes. In spring, young shoots are threatened by the raspberry stem fly. If you do not fight the insect, you can be left without fresh berries and winter stocks of jam.

A fly that loves raspberries

On the apical leaves of young shoots, the raspberry stem fly places one white oval egg each. One female is able to lay up to 90 pieces. And already at this moment the leaves begin to slowly fade. At the bottom of the raspberry at this stage, everything is in order. A week later, a legless cylindrical white larva emerges from the egg. The stems of young shoots are soft, so the larva easily penetrates under their skin. Feeding, she shreds the stem and gnaws through the passages: first - straight down, ring-shaped - into the core, and then damages the base of the shoot.

The larvae feed on plant fiber in the cracks of the shoots.

It turns out that when last year's shoots bloom, the satiated larvae already leave through the gnawed passage into the soil for wintering (in the form of a chrysalis). And in the spring the cycle repeats.

Table: what it looks like and where the raspberry stem fly lives

Photo gallery: the appearance of the fly and the signs of damage to the bushes

An adult raspberry fly lives on the stems of plants Through the gnawed stem, the larvae of the raspberry fly go into the soil for wintering. The raspberry stem fly lays its eggs on the tops of young shoots.

How the stem fly gets into the raspberry

Some errors in agricultural technology can cause the appearance of a pest on the bushes:

• bad neighborhood - do not plant new raspberry bushes near blackberries, meadowsweet and meadowsweet. These plants are susceptible to attack by the raspberry stem fly. The same applies to the neighbor's raspberries - no fence will save you from a pest;
• raspberry thicket - do not run raspberries. Cut bushes promptly. It is important to dig the soil well, but it is difficult to do this if the plantations have turned into a dense impenetrable forest;
• fly on honey - a raspberry stem fly can be lured by aphids, or rather, honeydew secreted by it. If you do not fight one pest, the appearance of another will not take long;
• bad fertilizer - fly larvae can get with infected humus when mulching the soil under the bushes.

Raspberry stem fly control

It is better to start measures to combat the raspberry fly in advance, applying some preventive measures before the start of insect flight. In the fight against a pest that has already appeared, the main thing is not to miss the moment the plant is damaged. If you let the raspberry fly "roam" - up to 80% of young shoots will die.

• inspect the bushes in a timely manner, remove damaged shoots;
• finding the first wilting leaves on the tops of raspberry bushes, immediately cut them off. This must be done just below the site of damage;
• the main thing is to have time to cut before the moment the larva has descended. If, when examining the place of pruning, a hole is visible in the middle of the stem, you will have to cut further (to the part not affected by the pest). Removed leaves, parts of the stems must be burned;
• be sure to thoroughly loosen the soil under the raspberry bushes in early spring (before the flies emerge), and in autumn (when the larvae begin to overwinter in a cocoon). Maybe not all the larvae will die, but most of them will die for sure;
• sprinkle the ground under the raspberries with a thick layer of wood ash;
• mow weeds around the site in time;
• annually with the advent of spring, treat the bushes with Bordeaux liquid.

Bordeaux mixture (an aqueous solution of calcium hydroxide and calcium sulfate) is a drug with a long history of use. Back in the 19th century, this substance was used to spray plantations affected by fungal diseases and pests. Acts on a diseased plant as an antibiotic.

The benefit of using Bordeaux mixture in protecting plants from the raspberry stem fly is to increase their resistance. Healthy shoots are more likely to fight the pest. Since after the appearance of damage from the vital activity of the larvae in raspberry bushes, the risk of "catching sores" increases. For spraying, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used (100 g of quicklime and copper sulfate are taken for 10 liters of water).

Video: how to make Bordeaux liquid

Spraying raspberries

There are special preparations from which solutions are prepared for spraying bushes. Biological agents are used immediately after flowering, and chemical agents are used during the period of shoot growth.

Table: stem fly control agents

Important! It is impossible to spray with solutions based on Karbofos during the flowering of plants, as well as near the beehives. The drug is toxic to bees and other pollinating insects.

Video: spring processing of raspberries from pests

Folk remedies

Although the effectiveness of traditional recipes in the fight against this pest is questionable, many gardeners prefer to experiment with "eco-remedies" first before using chemicals. In the fight against a pest, the following folk methods with a deterrent effect may be useful:

• treatment of bushes with a water-mustard solution (a glass of powder per 10 liters of warm water);
• spraying raspberries during the budding period with herbal decoction of tansy (300 g of dried tansy is boiled for 20–30 minutes in 3–5 liters of water, the decoction is infused for a day. The volume is brought to 10 liters with cold water);
• planting garlic and onions in close proximity to raspberry bushes.

A good prevention of infection by larvae of the stems of raspberry bushes is loosening in the rows during the period of insect pupation. Such a simple method will reduce the pest fly colonies by several times. In some cases, it is necessary to completely remove the top layer of soil (about 3 cm) and replace it with humus, manure, and a layer of sawdust.

Photo gallery: folk recipes from a raspberry fly

From pests, raspberries can be treated with a solution of mustard powder A decoction of tansy repels many pests, including the raspberry stem fly. Neighborhood with beds of onions and garlic protects raspberries from stem flies

Pest resistant varieties

It turns out that the variety of raspberries also determines a lot. Some species are considered more resistant to pest attack. It all depends on the shoots: it is better if they are more pubescent and not very cracked at the beginning of growth. Recommended varieties with relative pest resistance:

• Faith,
• Bell,
• Zorenka,
• Balm,
• Reward,
• Seedling,
• ruby,
• Falcon,
• Brilliant.

One of the most dangerous pests of raspberries, which can affect both the volume and quality of the crop, is the raspberry fly. And in order to prevent the mass defeat of plantings, it is necessary to choose the right ways to deal with this pest and use them in time.

The summer period of the raspberry fly coincides with the time when young shoots sprout: the pest gnaws through the stem and descends along it into the soil, where it hides for the winter

Characteristic

In May, when the substrate in the areas of larvae warms up to +12...13°C, they pupate. Development in the pupa lasts about 7-9 days, after which adult flies emerge from them, whose years last from 8 to 10 days. In cold and rainy weather, the flight may be somewhat delayed - up to 20 days. Under such conditions, most pupae die.

Mature flies that have emerged feed on flower nectar, dew, and the sugar secretion of other insect pests, after which the females lay eggs. Eggs are usually located on the tops and in the axils of not yet formed leaves, young shoots and in the root processes of raspberries.

The fecundity of female raspberry stem flies is 60-90 eggs. Development in the egg takes from 5 to 8 days, after which the larvae emerge from them. Young growth bites into the middle of young stems and lays spiral and ring-like passages. The apical parts of the damaged stems gradually wither, turn black and eventually die. After 12-16 days, the feeding of the larvae stops. They gnaw through the stem and descend into the soil for the winter quarters along the passages made. There they envelop themselves with a false cocoon and remain until the very spring.

On a note! The number of raspberry stem flies is limited by many predatory insects, especially ground beetles!

How to destroy the pest? We choose a drug.

Insecticides

If the number of the stem fly colony is large, then insecticides should already be applied.

Important! It is desirable to carry out the first spraying with insecticides during the period of mass emergence of flies!

• "Spark". The drug is available in the form of tablets, which must be dissolved in a certain amount of water before use. To treat a site from a raspberry fly, one tablet is dissolved in 10 liters of water and the bushes are sprayed with a fresh solution.
• Karbofos. This drug works well against a wide range of leaf-eating pests of the garden and vegetable garden. Spraying with a working solution (60 g per 10 l of water) is preferably carried out in the evening at an air temperature not lower than +15°C. It is necessary to fight the raspberry fly with this drug in the fall after harvesting, as it is toxic to bees and is prohibited for use during the flowering period.
• "Actellik". Phosphorus-organic insectoacaricide of intestinal action, which is produced in liquid form and sold in ampoules of 2 ml and in canisters of 5 liters. The working solution is prepared from the contents of one ampoule diluted in two liters of water. With a very strong infection, the concentration can be increased - the contents of one ampoule per liter of water. Like the previous drug, Actellik is toxic to bees, and therefore is not used during the flowering period.
• "Confidor". Systemic insecticide of contact action. When spraying, the active ingredients of the drug penetrate the leaves and stems of the plant and spread throughout its body.
  

  On a note! "Confidor" is resistant to washing off and works very effectively for 5-15 days even in the heat!

• "Agraventine". Biological preparation of enteric-contact action, based on an extract from the soil fungus Streptomies. Effective and non-addictive. For processing, you must select a warm day. In hot weather, the effectiveness of the remedy against the stem fly increases, and when the thermometer drops to + 18 ° C and below, it weakens.
• Fitoverm. Another biological insecticide that can help in the fight against the raspberry fly. Starts working 5-8 days after spraying. It is not toxic for bees, so the first treatment can be carried out in the summer, but no later than a couple of days before harvesting the berries.

Important! One treatment with insecticides will not be enough. In order to completely get rid of the pest, it is necessary to carry out 2-3 sprayings!

The sequence of measures to protect the raspberries

With the advent of the raspberry stem fly, it is necessary to fight it for a long time, both in spring and summer, and in autumn. The general action plan is as follows:

• in early spring, as soon as the snow melted, you should carefully dig up the entire area and thoroughly loosen the soil under the raspberry bushes;
• at the end of spring - around May, when the mass departure of flies begins, if the preparation allows (remember the toxicity for pollinating insects), we carry out insecticide treatment;
• during the budding period, we cut out the damaged stems and dispose of them immediately;
• in the fall, after harvesting, we again dig up the soil around the bushes, spill it with Bordeaux mixture and, if necessary, repeat the insecticidal treatment. During this period, it is better to use Karbofos.

Prevention

As you can see, the raspberry fly is very dangerous, and the fight against it can drag on for a long time. And in order to avoid trouble and prevent re-infection, it is necessary to act competently throughout the season. It is from this that the quantity and quality of the harvest will depend.

Prevention is pretty simple:

• regularly inspect the bushes in your raspberries and pay special attention to the condition of young shoots;
• if you know that a raspberry fly has definitely started up in a neighboring area, then it would be useful to carry out preventive treatment with Karbofos or Aktellik;
• in spring and autumn, dig up the site and immediately collect all plant debris;
• before winter, it is advisable to spud all the bushes and cover the soil around them with compost or peat mulch.

Remember, if you follow all the precautions throughout the season, you can protect your raspberries from pest attacks. And even if the infection has happened, do not give up, because now you know the methods of dealing with the raspberry stem fly. They are effective and easy to perform.

Spring is a favorable time for arranging a plot with raspberries. Regardless of the variety, it must be protected from diseases and pests, cut, fed, watered. Only with good care, raspberries please with a plentiful and tasty harvest.

Bushes are processed at the beginning of the growing season and during budding (5-7 days before flowering).

During the flowering of raspberries, any preventive or therapeutic measures should be excluded. The processing of bushes during this period leads to the death of pollinating insects and, as a result, to a deterioration in the yield.

What to process

Processing is carried out both with chemical preparations (urea, copper sulfate, dolomite flour, Bordeaux liquid), and folk remedies (mustard, soda, boiling water, infusions of herbs and flowers).

To strengthen the plants, urea treatment is performed in early spring. 15-20 grams are taken per square meter. Urea saturates the bushes with nitrogen and makes them less susceptible to disease.

Processing raspberries with copper sulfate avoids the appearance of fungal diseases (gray rot, anthracnose). Raspberry stalks and the soil around the bushes are processed. For spraying, 50 grams of vitriol is taken per 5 liters of water.

During the growing season and during the active growth of the plant, treatment with copper sulphate cannot be performed. It accumulates in berries and stems.

In the fight against anthracnose, rust and powdery mildew, the treatment of bushes with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or ferrous sulfate, Topaz, Nitrofen helps.

The main reasons for the development of infections are high humidity and high acidity of the soil. Reducing watering reduces moisture. Acidity can be reduced with wood ash, slaked lime, dolomite flour. 150 grams are taken per square meter.

Mustard protects raspberries from weevil larvae.

For spraying, 20 grams of dry mustard is taken per 10 liters of water, everything is mixed and infused for 12 hours. Spraying of bushes is carried out in several visits.

Instead of mustard, you can take baking soda, 2 tablespoons should be diluted in 10 liters of water.

Processing the bushes and the root circle with boiling water allows you to get rid of most pests. The procedure is performed after the snow melts and the soil warms up.

With a small area of ​​damage, raspberry beetle larvae can be harvested by hand. Before flowering, it is treated with an infusion of bitter wormwood and marigolds. When using Agravertin and Agravertin, the treatment is performed twice.

During budding, raspberries can be sprayed with tansy infusion.

For infusion, 350 grams of dry grass or a kilogram of freshly harvested raw materials, 5 liters of water are taken. Tansy is infused for a day, then boiled for half an hour, filtered and diluted with the same amount of water.

Mulching with pine needles protects against weevil and gray rot.

The main pests and diseases of raspberries with photos, descriptions and control measures

Pests

The main pests of raspberries are:

• stem gall,
• raspberry beetle,
• stem fly,
• weevil,
• spider mite,
• kidney moth,
• raspberry nutcracker,
• raspberry glass.

The presence of swellings on the stems and shoots of raspberries indicates that the plant is affected by stem gall midge. Such shoots are cut and burned.

For prevention in early spring, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5-10 centimeters and sprayed with karbofos or Fufanon.

During the appearance of buds, re-treatment with Fufanon or Actellik is performed.

Aphids feed on plant sap and accumulate on the lower part of the foliage. To destroy the pest during bud break, karbofos or Actellik is used.

For the prevention of stem flies, mulching the soil around the bushes is used. Mulch makes it difficult for insects to get out of the ground. The first treatment is carried out after the snow melts, karbofos is used. In early May (before flowering), Fitoverm, Aktellik or Agravertin are processed.

Raspberry nutcracker attacks raspberry stems. The larvae feed on stem tissue and cause tissue cracking and swelling. Blisters in length reach 10 centimeters. Diseased plants are removed from the site. For the prevention of healthy bushes, treatment with karbofos is carried out.

When raspberry bushes are affected by the weevil, the plants are treated with karbofos, metaphos or Actellik. Processing is done a week before flowering.

To combat the kidney moth in early spring (before the buds swell), the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid, Confidor, Spark, Decis. When leaves appear, a 10% solution of karbofos is used.

The raspberry beetle damages the leaves, buds and berries of the plant. Berries shrink and quickly deteriorate.
To protect against the raspberry beetle, the bushes and the ground around (immediately after the snow melts, trimming and tying the bushes) are sprayed with a 10% solution of karbofos, Nitrafen, Decis, Confidor, Iskra and covered with mulch.

When a raspberry glass case appears, the damaged stems are cut and burned, the caterpillars damage the stems, roots and lead to the weakening and death of the bushes.

Spider mites can be identified by white punctures on the surface of raspberry leaves. With a strong defeat, the plants begin to wither and die.
In the fight against spider mites, karbofos, phosphamide, metaphos, colloidal sulfur, Cidial are used. Spraying is done in the evening.

Diseases

Raspberry is amazed

• anthracnose,
• rust,
• white and purple spotting,
• powdery mildew,
• vercillo wilt,
• gray rot,
• streak,
• mosaic,
• mycoplasma disease (growth),
• curly,
• bactericidal root cancer,
• root rot.

Anthracnose (leaf curling) occurs when there is a lack of boron or potassium in the soil. With a lack of potassium, the leaves are wrapped inside. You can correct the situation with the help of ash. The lack of boron can be compensated by adding a solution of boric acid.

From gray rot and anthracnose, raspberries are treated with Nitrafen solution in early spring. When buds open, Bordeaux liquid is sprayed. Fitosporin can be used at any time.

With the appearance of mottling, stains, spotting on the leaves (viral diseases), they must be removed immediately. Pruning old shoots, thinning and feeding plants avoids these diseases.

To avoid verticillium wilt when planting, the roots should be dipped for 10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. When leaf spot appears, Bordeaux liquid is used.

Raspberry chlorosis

Pests (mites, aphids, nematodes) penetrate the stems through cuts, breaks. These insects are carriers of viral diseases (chlorosis, jaundice). The leaves turn yellow, the stems are depleted, the berries become smaller and dry quickly.

At the first sign of chlorosis, plants need to be dug up and burned, healthy bushes and the soil around are treated with protective preparations.

Mycoplasma disease leads to the formation of a large number of infertile thin shoots from 30-50 centimeters long (about 200 pieces per bush). At the first manifestations of the disease, the bush is dug up and removed from the site.

Leads to yellowing of foliage. When transplanting or planting bushes, you need to pay attention to the roots. If there is swelling, they are removed, and the cuts are treated with a 1% solution of copper sulphate.

When raspberry curl appears, the leaves become very small, become wrinkled, hard. The underside of the leaves turns brown. Berries become sour, deformed and dry. The plant dies within 3 years. Sick bushes are immediately removed and sent to the fire.

Spring treatment of raspberries from pests / Stem raspberry fly / Spraying raspberries: video

In addition to processing raspberries from pests and diseases, care includes:

• pruning,
• top dressing,
• tying up,
• watering and weeding.

To prevent raspberry bushes from getting sick, you need roots and stems from mechanical damage. Shrubs in one place can grow no more than 7 years. They can be planted on the former site after 4 years.

Landing should be done in fertilized soil. Seedlings should be healthy, strong, with a well-developed, strong root system, without any damage.

Treatment with copper-containing preparations (1% Bordeaux liquid, Oksihom, Abiga-Peak, Hom, Copper oxychloride) saves raspberries from infections. In rainy weather, spraying should be repeated after 1.5-2 weeks.

To combat diseases of raspberry bushes, it is necessary to provide plants with a high level of agricultural technology (the right place for planting, top dressing, timely watering, loosening, weeding, tying and mulching).
If the raspberries dry out, then there are reasons for this: lack of nitrogen, lack of moisture and thickening of the planting. Eliminating problems can improve the yield several times over.

Pruning is done from the second year of plant life.

One of the more important steps in caring for raspberries is pruning.

First of all, shoots are cut off on which fruits are not expected (frozen, damaged and young), they are cut off at the root. If the shoot is partially damaged, it is cut to a healthy place.

Regardless of the planting, the bushes should not be thickened. With a bush form, 8-12 stems should grow, with a ribbon no more than 25 stems.

The second pruning is done when the raspberries grow.

The tops of raspberries are cut to 12-15 centimeters (to the first bud), this stimulates the development of the plant and lateral buds. The height of the stem should not exceed 1.5 meters.

The most necessary useful substances for raspberries are potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and organic matter.

• Potassium improves the yield and winter hardiness of plants.
• Phosphorus strengthens shoots.
• Nitrogen accelerates plant growth. Any raspberry variety gives a good harvest on soil rich in organic matter.

To increase the yield, spring top dressing is carried out in several stages.

Any kind of raspberry dressing is done after watering and loosening the soil.

For the first top dressing, after the snow melts (before loosening the soil), urea or saltpeter is used. Granular fertilizer is applied under the bush immediately after watering. 15 grams of saltpeter or 20 grams of urea are taken per square meter. To enhance the effect, a glass of wood ash is scattered under the bush.

After loosening the land, rotted manure, peat or compost is distributed on the site. The organics will serve as mulch.

In May, raspberries need to be fed with mullein. The mullein is filled with water in a ratio of one to one and infused for a week. The resulting infusion is diluted with cool water (2 liters per 10 liters of water), poured under the bushes.

When laying the ovary, top dressing is carried out with superphosphate. After this procedure, the bushes become strong, resistant to diseases, the yield increases.

During flowering, 1 glass of superphosphate, a glass of ash and 100 grams of carbamide are introduced.
The mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and spilled under the bushes.

Feeding raspberries with chicken manure increases the yield and strengthens the plants. Litter is diluted in water in a ratio of one to five and infused for 5 days. The finished infusion is diluted one to twenty and used for its intended purpose.

Raspberries. The fight for the harvest begins in the spring: video

Proper processing of raspberries in the spring and good care allows you to get a bountiful harvest every year.

You may not have paid much attention to small midges or inconspicuous beetles on raspberry bushes. But in vain! Insects that look harmless can actually be very dangerous, and the sooner you get rid of them, the more chances there will be for a good harvest.

Whatever variety grows on your site, diseases and pests can spoil a good part of the crop or even destroy the plant itself. Agree, there is little pleasant when every now and then you come across spoiled by beetles and wormy berries, and the shoots wither without having time to bring the harvest. To protect raspberry bushes, you need to take preventive measures and destroy emerging insects in time.

Pictured is a raspberry

Here is a list of the most undesirable insects for raspberries:

• raspberry beetle- adults have a gray oval body up to 4 mm long, the larvae have a brown head and a light body. After wintering in the ground, the beetles come out in mid-May and first eat the flowers of shrubs and weeds, and then move on to raspberry buds, completely eating them from the inside. The larvae that appear from eggs laid by raspberry beetles on young leaves, ovaries and flowers are even more harmful. The result is a noticeable decrease in yield and wormy berries.
• Raspberry stem fly- a gray small fly that appears in May-June and lays eggs in the axils of raspberry leaves, as well as on the tops of young stems. The danger is represented by larvae, which make moves in young shoots, causing blackening and drying up to 80% of the stems.
• Raspberry kidney moth- a small butterfly dark with light spots, from which red larvae with a dark head are born. The larvae eat away the contents of the swelling buds and penetrate the stems, pupating there. Adult butterflies lay eggs in raspberry flowers, and emerging caterpillars, eating the fruit, go down the shoots down, where they remain to winter in cracks in the bark. Thus, the bud moth harms the buds, berries and stems.

Pictured is a raspberry stem fly

• stem gall midge- a brown mosquito about 2 mm in size with small transparent wings. During the flowering of raspberries, this pest lays its eggs in the lower part of annual stems, and the born light orange caterpillars penetrate the shoots, causing characteristic swellings under the bark.
• spider mite- a tiny pest, the thinnest web of which can be seen from the underside of raspberry leaves (one of the pests of grapes). Severely damaged leaves dry and fall off.
• Strawberry-raspberry weevil- dark gray beetle no larger than 3 mm. Harms raspberries by laying eggs in buds. White larvae with a yellow head eat the buds from the inside, and by mid-July the larvae turn into beetles and begin to damage the raspberry leaves.

Video about raspberry pests

On the Internet, you can easily find what all the listed raspberry pests look like in pictures. "Enemies" should be known by sight! By learning to identify insects that are dangerous to raspberries by their appearance, you will know how to deal with them in the most effective way.

If insects appear in your raspberry garden that cause irreparable harm to raspberry stems, you will have to ruthlessly cut out all damaged shoots and burn them right away. Pruning is usually carried out in the fall, when the entire crop is already harvested, or in early spring. When raspberries are affected by stem gall midge, the shoots are cut slightly below the characteristic swellings; in all other cases, it is advisable to cut the infected stems under the root.

To deal with a common raspberry beetle in the morning, raspberry bushes are shaken: the beetles fall onto a film lying on the ground, from where they are collected and destroyed.

When the buds are formed, the raspberries are abundantly sprayed in the evenings with infusion of tansy (for five liters of water, a kilogram of fresh tansy and 350 grams of dried - leave for a day, then boil for half an hour, strain and add cold water to get 10 liters of infusion). In the autumn months, under raspberry bushes, the soil is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet, thereby destroying the larvae and beetles that have settled down for the winter.

Pictured pest control

Digging also helps to partially destroy the larvae of the raspberry fly. To completely get rid of this pest, before the appearance of flowers, raspberries are treated with karbofos or emulsions of drugs " Confidor», « Spark”, and the withering tops of the shoots are cut and burned every two weeks.

From spider mites and from strawberry-raspberry weevil, raspberry bushes are sprayed with fufanon before flowering and after picking berries, or " spark" And " Confidor". The same measures are taken in case of severe damage to raspberries by a bud fly (in addition to pruning damaged stems).

Of course, it is better to protect raspberries in advance from a possible invasion of "uninvited guests" than to fight with all your might to preserve the crop.

Video about raspberries and pests

Risk of occurrence pests in raspberries can be reduced several times if you follow the standard rules of care:

• thin out the bushes for better air circulation;
• annually carry out a full-fledged autumn pruning of raspberries;
• after pruning, remove all plant residues from the raspberry and immediately burn;
• periodically loosen the soil under the raspberries by 3 cm during the summer;
• in autumn, shallowly dig the ground between rows and between raspberry bushes;
• starting from spring and throughout the season, prevent the appearance of weeds (spider mites can multiply on them).

Photo of a raspberry bush

To protect the emerging buds from the raspberry beetle, raspberry bushes are covered with non-woven material, and as soon as the flowers begin to bloom, it is removed.

This pest is widespread in central Russia. In mid-May, flies begin to fly out of the upper layers of soil located under the raspberry bushes. During this period, their main goal is to lay their eggs in the axils of the apical leaves.

After some time, larvae appear from the eggs, which immediately begin to bite into the stem, making ring-shaped passages in it. As a result of this, damaged shoots very soon begin to fade, blacken and rot. The larvae, feeding, gradually gnaw a tunnel to the base of the shoot.

When raspberries bloom, the larvae leave shoots and go into the soil. There they pupate, and the whole process begins anew: a fly - larval eggs.

As soon as you notice the shoots damaged by the larvae of the raspberry stem fly (their tops begin to blacken and wither), cut them out closer to the middle, capturing part of the healthy stem, and destroy (take them out of the site and burn them). Then work the soil under the raspberry bushes.

After pruning, lateral branches (2-3 pieces) soon begin to develop on the shoots, which develop intensively and give a good harvest.

Knowing the approximate timing of the departure of the raspberry fly, it is possible to treat the apical shoots with Actellik and Iskra preparations. This method of control is recommended for severe infection of plants, since the preparations have a chemical basis.

Be sure to dig up the raspberry bushes in the autumn, disrupting the measured life of the raspberry fly larvae, which have settled down for a comfortable wintering.