How to grow onions from sets large. Plum details. Cultivation, useful properties and variety selection Why does onion grow poorly on a feather

Onion is a widely popular plant that is grown by all gardeners. Even if the plot is very small or it's just a flower bed, onion lovers will still find a place for a couple of rows of onions. And in this case, it is especially important to get a quality crop. After all, quite often the onions in the garden begin to turn yellow and do not grow, so you need to know what to do if this happens even before the harvest season.

Reasons why onions turn yellow

Yellowing onions in the garden in the middle of summer threatens with crop loss, therefore, in order to properly deal with the problem, you first need to establish the causes. Onion feathers may begin to change color in summer as a result of:

Pest infestations.
Diseases.
care mistakes.
weather conditions.
Nitrogen deficiency.

If the onion has stopped growing or its yield has decreased, the cause may be a lack of watering.

Salvation of onions in case of damage by pests

Among the variety of pests, the following species prefer to feast on onions:

onion moth;
nematode;
secretive proboscis;
thrips.

To prevent onion damage by these insects, it is recommended to plant it every year in a new place. You can return to the first bed only after four years.

In order not to breed an onion fly, onions should be planted as early as possible and not far from the carrots. Feed the onion beds with a mixture of pepper and tobacco dust. Top dressing is carried out at a time when the dandelion blooms. To combat the flies that have already settled, pour the bulbs (but not feathers and beds) with a salt solution at the rate of 200 g per bucket of water.

They get rid of the appeared onion moth and the secretive trunk by the method of completely removing the remnants of the upper shoots of the onion from the site and deep digging the site immediately before frost.

So that the onion does not turn yellow due to damage by nematodes and thrips, before planting, lower it for 10 minutes in hot water.

Calendula and marigolds planted between the rows of onions repel pests with their aroma.

Prevention of onion diseases leading to yellowing

To prevent fungal diseases that cause yellowing of the onion, before planting it is laid out for 12 hours under direct sunlight for heating. Planted onions must be poured with a solution using copper oxychloride (1 tbsp) and laundry soap (1 tbsp) in a bucket of water.

So that onion plantings are not damaged by bottom rot, onion beds cannot be made in a lowland.

Correction of errors in the care of onions that caused them to turn yellow

To prevent yellowing of the onion as a result of care errors, it should be properly watered. For irrigation, use only warm, settled water, water strictly under the root, preventing the soil from washing out on the bulb. Mineral fertilizers can be added to water for irrigation.

One month before the start of harvesting, watering must be stopped.

What to do if the onion turns yellow due to weather conditions?

With a lack of precipitation in a dry summer, onion beds should be watered more often. And during the period of prolonged rains, it is better to cover the plantings in the greenhouse.

How to prevent yellowing of the pen from a lack of nitrogen?

In cases where the watering is correct, and there are no diseases with pests, and the onion still turns yellow, the cause may be a deficiency. In this case, the onion must be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizer (special complexes or humus).

Onions - it would seem one of the simplest vegetables that we grow in our garden. For the majority, it succeeds, which is called "famously", but for some, literally from year to year, the onion turns out to be small, why this happens, let's see.

So, let's start with what generally prefers onions, which is more acceptable for him:

Onions, in order to get large, should not grow in the same area every year, it is best to choose another area for it every year.

To plant onions, from which you want to get large and beautiful bulbs in the future, you should start only when the soil warms up and is warm. Our grandmothers very simply checked the readiness of the soil for planting onions, they took off their shoes, socks and stood with their bare soles on the ground, they used to say “if the legs are comfortable, then the onions will also be”, warm earth was a signal for planting.

If the weather is cloudy and the sun does not want to warm the soil, then you can warm it up yourself. To do this, you can use a simple, but quite effective technique - prepare the soil, make holes and spill them with hot water, but not boiling water. Do this, boil the kettle, wait 15-20 seconds and only then use water to warm the soil. After such artificial heating, onions can be planted after 3-4 hours. With this technique, you can kill two birds with one stone - and warm up the soil and destroy various microorganisms.

But we have described only what needs to be done immediately before planting, in order for the bulbs to be large,

there are secrets and preplant preparation of bulbs:

We strongly recommend that before planting, soak them for 1-2 minutes in a 1.5% solution of potassium permanganate, having previously removed the husk that disappears almost by itself, that is, completely dry. After soaking the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate, transfer the bulbs to any container filled with wet sawdust and soak for several hours so that the excess potassium permanganate is absorbed into the sawdust.

Some gardeners, by the way, even advise to germinate onions in wet sawdust, for this, before planting, they must be placed in containers for 3-4 days, gently moistening the sawdust so as not to overmoisten them.

In the future, in order for the onions to become real heroic bulbs, it is necessary to pick up loose, moist, fertile soil for the onions, but if it is heavy, poorly processed, clayey on your site, then you will never get a large onion. In this case, it will need to be loosened by adding non-acidic peat and river sand in the amount of 1-2 buckets per square meter.

A separate fad also applies to fertilizers, for example, manure, it must be applied to the soil on which you plan to grow onions two seasons before planting this plant, and it’s fine if it’s a predecessor for the crop. If you do otherwise, then the onion will not only be small, but in general it can rot right in the soil.

Do not forget that a large onion will never grow if it is planted in the shade, if it is flooded with water, turning the site into a swamp (although it is also impossible to overdry the onion) or if the beds are turned across to the sun or made too small. low.

About watering separately:

During the season, you need at least ten waterings, but you need to water depending on the "weather outside the window", if it's dry, then a bucket of water per square meter is a must, but if it's raining, then you can forget about watering. You can completely stop watering only a month before harvesting to allow the onion to ripen. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil, the onion does not tolerate the crust on the surface well, its roots must breathe, so pay attention to the soil surface more often - if it is too compacted. The soil is especially compacted and a crust forms after heavy rains or irrigation.

The size of the onion is also affected by the depth of its planting, for example, two centimeters are considered optimal. They say “the deeper you place the onion in the soil, the smaller you get it from there, the soil seems to squeeze the bulb and it does not have enough strength to move the soil apart.” Both the size and the planting pattern affect the size of the bulb, “onions love space,” as our grandmothers used to say, so do not thicken the plantings, it is better that the quantitative yield of the bulbs will be less, but their quality will be much higher.

Top dressing:

You should not be too zealous with top dressing, usually a good onion is obtained even with periodic top dressing with ordinary wood ash. The amount of ash is 100-120 g per square meter - the frequency is 2-3 times per season.

And of course, before planting, always and very carefully select onions, take the most healthy, well-made, not damaged or diseased, nothing good will grow out of them anyway.

After planting in open ground, onions requires careful care. Watering and fertilizing here they play a key role, because water and fertilizers are the main sources of nutrients necessary for growth. Therefore, if the onion does not grow well, the first thing to do is feed.

Basic watering rules:

Watering onions recommended from a watering can with a strainer, carefully so as not to damage the pen.
Approximately 3 weeks before harvesting, stop watering the onions - this helps to avoid cracking of the bulbs and increase the shelf life.
Watering the onions is plentiful, moistening the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm.
The optimal time for watering is evening.
When a crust forms after watering, the soil is loosened to open the access of oxygen to the root system.
However, onions also do not tolerate excess moisture well, so experts recommend sprinkler irrigation systems for it. Such a system contributes to accurate dosing of water.
It is useful to add fertilizers to the water for irrigation, thus combining watering with top dressing.

How often and how much to water the onions?

The frequency of watering onions depends on weather conditions and the stage of development of the plant. So, in June, when the weather is mostly hot and dry, the water consumption is approximately 10-liter bucket per 1 square meter. In July, the frequency of watering remains the same - once every 8-10 days, but the water consumption decreases. About a month before harvesting, watering is stopped - this reduces the risk of cracking the bulbs and they are stored longer. Based on the recommendations given in the dacha literature, that how often and how much to water the onions, we have compiled a watering calendar table.

Watering calendar:

How to feed onions for growth?

If the onion does not grow well, in addition to watering, carry out top dressing. To do this, use a solution of mullein with water in a ratio of 1 to 12. An additional 30 g of ammonium nitrate is placed on a bucket of solution.

feed onions mineral fertilizers can be already from the moment of emergence of shoots:

In the first week, ammonium nitrate is added, according to the instructions on the package.
In the next 3 weeks, ammonium nitrate, any water-soluble complex fertilizer and calcium nitrate are added.

The composition of mineral dressings is adjusted taking into account the growing season of the variety and the condition of the plants:

In the 1st half of the growing season, nitrogen supplements are needed.
In the 2nd half of the growing season - phosphorus-potassium (an excess of nitrogen at this time is dangerous for the development of cervical rot on the bulbs).

Three-time scheme of fertilizing with mineral fertilizers:

Feeding onions with folk remedies

In addition to those listed above, there are many other feeding options. For the most part, these are folk remedies that are shared by gardeners-gardeners at summer cottage forums:

Top dressing with ash and mullein infusion. Wood ash is scattered on the surface of the earth around plants or an ash solution is prepared for irrigation at a dosage of: 1 teaspoon of wood ash per 1 liter of water. Feeding onions with ashes is recommended to alternate with mullein infusion (diluted in water 1:12). Important: you need to feed at sufficient intervals. .
Watering the onion with yeast. Very often, onions are fed with yeast. The main ingredient here is dry or fresh yeast, bread crumb. Recipe: 500 gr. dissolve bread crumb in a 10-liter bucket of warm water, add 500 gr. fresh green grass and 500 gr. fresh yeast. The solution should be infused for 2 days. Top dressing with yeast infusion is carried out instead of traditional watering.
Watering onions with ammonia will help, if the feathers of the onion turned yellow. Experienced summer residents are sure that this is a sign of a lack of nitrogen. For top dressing prepare a solution: 3 tbsp. l. ammonia in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured over the onion in the evening under the root.

Problems when growing onions - of course, many summer residents grow onions, but very often due to improper care there are many problems that can lead to a complete lack of harvest in the future.

Many summer residents believe that growing onions is very simple, but in reality this is not the case. So, first of all, it should be remembered that crop rotation is very important for onions. Therefore, every year it is necessary to change the place of sowing onions. The best solution would be to plant this plant in place of cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers or tomatoes.

Onions grow very poorly in acidic soils; on such beds, the crop may not occur at all. The soil reaction for the favorable development of onions should be as close to neutral as possible, so fertile loamy chernozems will be the best solution. Soils rich in sulfur are also important for onions. For this reason, it is recommended to feed with superphosphate, ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate.

It should be noted that onions do not tolerate weeds. Therefore, it is recommended to always destroy them. At the very beginning of growth, onions will suffer greatly from insufficient watering. You should constantly loosen the soil between the beds, as well as regularly water the plantings. However, it is very important to remember that watering should be carried out along the grooves, but in no case by sprinkling. If you choose this particular watering method, then the plant may become ill with downy mildew, known as downy mildew.
Hilling plants is not recommended, so loosening the soil will be the best solution. Onions have a rather shallow root system. It is for this reason that the soil cannot be waterlogged, and watering should also be stopped three weeks before the start of harvest. Also during this period, top dressing is not allowed. Actually this period begins around mid-July.

When planting onions, it is very important to lay out the bulbs, and in no case should they be pressed into the soil. Seeds should be placed in grooves that have been prepared in advance. After that, the grooves should be sprinkled with earth.

The deficiency of certain trace elements can be determined by the color of the pen. In the event that the leaves are pale and thin, then this is a sure sign of a lack of nitrogen. When the tops of the leaves fade slightly and turn black, this indicates a deficiency of phosphorus. When a plant has a lack of potassium, the leaves will turn yellow and become wrinkled. Fragile feathers combined with white spots warn that the plant lacks magnesium. If the plants themselves begin to wither, and their leaves turn pale yellow, then this means that it is necessary to supplement the plants with copper.

Actually, cleaning and proper storage is also very important for onions. You can determine the harvest time by the lodging of the leaves themselves. After the onion has been pulled out of the ground, it must be left in the garden to ripen and dry out. After that, you should move the bow to a well-ventilated area.

So, the best day for harvesting will be dry windy weather and bright sun. After all, this is how you can dry the onion. It should be noted that the rays of the sun will also contribute to the disinfection of the bulbs. The onion should dry out before the end of the day, and then the leaves should be cut off. The bulbs are transferred to a storage place, where they will dry out for the required amount of time: this usually takes several weeks.

You can actually leave the onion to dry right on the floor, but this room should be well ventilated. After that, the onion is placed in baskets, because in this way it will be stored for the rest of the time. Baskets are recommended to choose wicker, buckets and basins will not be the best solution. In such containers, the onion will lack air, which will lead to the fact that it will rot completely over time.

You can talk endlessly about the benefits of onions, but the question of how to grow large onions is always of interest to many summer residents and gardeners. The agricultural technique of growing onions is not complicated, but it has some tricks and subtleties ...

To make the onion large, we prepare the garden bed correctly

Onions grow on any soil, but it would be best to grow them on fertile and loose soil. Clay soils are also not suitable for growing onions, they are too heavy for it. In this case, the site for planting onions must be sunny. It will be good if you plant onions in the place where they previously grew: potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes or zucchini.

The land allotted for the beds, for starters, you need to dig up and add fertilizer, as well as remove all weeds. It is advisable to prepare the soil for planting onions in the fall, sprinkle manure that has overgrown, compost or humus. From fertilizers, saltpeter, potassium chloride, and also superphosphate are usually added.

As a rule, onions grow well on soils with neutral acidity. Well, if the soil is acidic, then it can be diluted, for example, with ash or lime.

In order for the soil for the onion to warm up sufficiently, dig the bed again in the spring and only then proceed to planting. The length and width of the beds can be whatever is more convenient for you, the most important thing at this moment is that it is advisable to make the distance between the rows at least 20 centimeters. The sevok is deepened by 2-3 centimeters maximum. Too deep crops hinder the growth of the bulb, because of which the onion can go into the arrow.

How to increase the yield of onions through top dressing?

In order for the onion to be large, it must be fed. Even such a culture as onions also requires top dressing. You can fertilize with both mineral and organic top dressing. For the entire period of growth, onions are recommended to be fed no more than three times. The first fertilizer can already be applied 10-14 days after the onion has been planted. It is advisable to make nitrogen fertilizing so that the onion builds up green mass. The second stage of fertilizer is carried out somewhere in a week or two after the first feeding. In this phase, nitrogen fertilizers are reduced, and potash and phosphate fertilizers are increased. The third time falls on the stage of formation of the bulb itself. Such onion fertilizer is usually carried out on depleted soils, and if your land is fertile, then you can refuse this top dressing.

Now there are a lot of mineral fertilizers on the market, therefore, in order to increase the yield of onions, fertilizers such as Agricola-2 for onions, Vegeta, Effecton-O are usually used. The solution should be diluted in accordance with the instructions. Usually use a maximum of two tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Fertilize preferably in the evening.

The following solutions can also be used as the first top dressing:

you need 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate, 60 grams of superphosphate and an incomplete tablespoon of potassium chloride, and shake it all up in 10 liters of water;

dissolve 60 grams of ammonia in a bucket of water. Such top dressing will not only increase the yield of onions, but also save the onions from some pests, for example, from the onion fly.

An example of the second top dressing: take 10 liters of water, pour 30 grams of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride each, add 50-60 grams of superphosphate. You can also dilute a tablespoon of salt and ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water, adding manganese at the tip of a knife here.

For the third top dressing, dilute 50 grams of superphosphate in a bucket of water with a volume of 12 liters, you can also add about 30 grams of potassium salt.

Often the onion dries in the garden, so it is necessary to find out what caused it and, of course, eliminate it, since the consequences may not be comforting and the onion yield will be low because of this.

When fertilizing onions, be careful not to get the solution on the feathers. And it is very important to follow the onions in the garden, and not what everyone around recommends. If your onion is green and healthy, then the soil on the site is very fertile, so it is better to refrain from top dressing. With a lack of potassium, onion feathers will turn yellow, then fertilize it. If the tops of the feathers of the onion dry out, it means that it lacks phosphorus. And pale and weak feathers indicate a lack of nitrogen. Therefore, if you want large onions and high onion yields, it is extremely important to maintain a balanced fertilizer and know how to feed the onions in each case.

ogorodko.ru

Onion Secrets. Growing onions from sevka

It's time to talk to us, perhaps, about the cultivation of onions, about one of the very first plants that a person began to grow, because it is believed that onions were "cultivated" about 4 thousand years ago.

It is almost impossible to imagine any cuisine in the world without this “tear-producing” vegetable, because many dishes without it will seem insipid and tasteless.

And although there are a great many types of onions, each of them finds its admirers. These are onions, and more tender and delicate leeks; perennial chives can decorate our summer cottage no worse than flowers, but, for example, slime successfully combines the taste of both onions and garlic.

I have listed far from all types of onions, there are many more of them, and with a variety of flavors, onions are quite capable of conquering the most demanding gourmet.

A bit of history

The bow was well known in ancient Egypt. On the paintings of the tombs, and the oldest of them dates back to about 2800 BC, images of onions were found.

The Egyptians highly valued it as a very effective remedy for a general pestilence and, therefore, grew onions everywhere. It was necessarily included in the daily diet of the slaves who built the pyramids in order to avoid various epidemics, since their number reached 100,000 people, and on a relatively small construction site.

And the Roman legionnaires believed that the consumption of a large amount of onions increases their energy and makes the warrior fearless.

The ancient Germans crowned brave warriors who distinguished themselves in battle with onion flowers.

In the era of the Crusades, the bow had such a high healing and occult authority that the French knights even exchanged their prisoners with the Saracens for 8 onions of each of them.

And the ancient doctors, not without reason, believed that there was not a single disease in which the onion, if prepared in the proper way, would not benefit the patient.

In Rus', onions also made their invaluable help during the years of terrible epidemics - plague, cholera, typhus. To prevent any infection from entering the room and to purify the air, onion bundles were hung in living quarters.

Useful properties of onions

In preparation for writing an article about onions, I re-read a large amount of literature about it and was simply amazed at how many useful properties of onions. Of course, I knew before that it has medicinal properties, but in such quantity!!!

Now I really regret that in my childhood I really didn’t like onions and almost didn’t eat them, as well, probably, many other children.

I will try to briefly note at least some of the invaluable properties of onions: wound healing, anti-influenza, anti-burn, expectorant, diuretic, laxative, anti-scurvy, antiarrhythmic, antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-sclerotic, anti-thrombotic, antispasmodic and hypotensive, antihelminthic, antihemorrhoid.

Onion can be of great benefit to people with circulatory system disorders and edema of any origin, as it is able to stimulate and regulate cardiac activity and secretory activity of such organs as: bronchi, liver, kidneys, pancreas.

And onions are also valuable because they reduce the prothrombin index (blood clotting), cholesterol and blood sugar levels; normalizes blood pressure, increases the elasticity and strength of blood vessels.

Modern medicine has found numerous carbohydrates in onions - sugars, pectins, fiber, proteins, a large number of various vitamins, minerals (potassium, calcium, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, selenium, sulfur), phytoncides.

For therapeutic purposes, onions can be used in any form: raw, boiled, baked, dried onions, fresh leaves, upper shells (scales) and seeds, in the form of juice, in the form of gruel, as well as decoctions and infusions.

I have listed, my dear readers, only a small fraction of the useful properties that onions have in order to show you what a treasure we grow in our gardens.

But it should also be noted that onions have their own contraindications. So, for example, onions are contraindicated in many diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, biliary and urinary systems, since the essential oils contained in it can aggravate the course of the disease.

Persons suffering from these diseases should be careful when ingesting fresh onion pulp and its whole juice, but at the same time they can successfully use baked or boiled onions.

Basic requirements for growing onions

In this section, we will consider the general conditions that must be met when growing this plant. Although the onion is not the most fastidious culture, it still requires attention to itself.

It is important for him that the soil in the beds is loose and nutritious. It is best to take an open, well-lit area for planting onions, as the plant reacts sharply to the intensity and duration of lighting. The length of daylight is one of the important conditions for its cultivation.

Onions feel great and grow well with low humidity. But at the same time, the soil should be moderately moist. Watering the onion is important at a time when there is a mass regrowth of the feather and the formation of bulbs, and already at the end of the growing season, excessive moisture is not welcome, as it will delay the ripening of the onion and reduce its keeping quality.

In those areas where groundwater comes close to the surface, it is better not to plant onions.

He also does not like weeds very much, so onion plantings must be regularly weeded.

Onion beds are best done in those places in our summer cottage where cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes grew in the previous season - those crops under which we usually apply large doses of organic fertilizers.

In no case should onions be planted in a site that was occupied by any type of onion, since: firstly, various pathogenic bacteria and other microorganisms, as well as those pests that "specialize" in this crop, may remain in the ground; secondly, the soil in these places is already depleted of those nutrients that are necessary for the growth of onion plants.

And it is not advisable to plant onions after plants such as: garlic, carrots. In the same place, onions can be planted no earlier than after 3 years, and best of all after 5 years.

Onions also do not like to grow on acidic soils, because in this case the plants absorb nutrition much worse and are more often affected by such a formidable disease as downy mildew (peronosporosis). Having become ill, the plant weakens and can no longer fully fight pests.

Preparing a plot for planting onions

It is best to prepare the soil for planting onions in the fall. We dig the earth to a depth of 15-20 cm, having previously introduced well-rotted manure or peat-dung compost.

It is not advisable to introduce fresh manure, as this can cause onion diseases, and weed seeds can also get into the soil with manure and it will not be so easy to get rid of them later. And the introduction of fresh manure will provoke an increased growth of the above-ground part of the plant, due to which the bulbs will not be able to fully mature.

If the soil is acidic in your area, then in order to get a good onion crop, it is necessary to liming the soil in the fall. But here it is necessary to take into account the fact that it is extremely undesirable to introduce manure and lime into the soil at the same time, since the nitrogen content in the fertilizer decreases.

To avoid this, it is better to add dolomite flour, ground limestone, ground chalk, wood ash to the soil instead of lime.

In the spring, we will only have to apply mineral fertilizers and it is better to apply them not all at once, but in several stages, since onions have a very negative attitude to the high concentration of mineral fertilizer salts.

Therefore, we apply half of the established dose when digging the ground before planting, and distribute the second half between 2-3 top dressings during the growing season.

Onion

In the previous sections, we got acquainted with the general conditions that must be met for the successful cultivation of onions. Now it's time to consider the requirements of specific species, of which there are a large number, but among our gardeners, several types are most common, these are: onions, shallots, batun, chives, slime onions, leeks, multi-tiered onions, wild garlic.

Let's start our acquaintance with the onion family with the most famous species that all summer residents grow - this is onions. Most often, onions are grown from onion sets, which can be purchased at gardening stores or grown from seeds.

Breeding sevka is a rather laborious process, because it is necessary not only to put a lot of effort into its cultivation, but also then to properly preserve it.

Therefore, I do not dare to grow onions from seeds, although I would have to try. In the next article, we will take a closer look at the agricultural technology of growing onions from seeds, but now let's talk about how to grow good onions from sets.

Preparing for landing

If we bought sevok in a store, then immediately after purchase, dry it in any warm place, scattering it in a thin layer, but not on the battery.

If you have a sevok that you yourself grew and which was stored at a low temperature (below 18ºС), then you need to warm it up in order to set in motion the growth processes.

It is best to warm up the sowing in several stages: first, we keep it at a temperature of 20ºС for 15-20 days; then we raise the temperature to 30-40ºС, but only for 8-10 hours.

Warming up is necessary not only in order to activate growth, but also to prevent archery in the future. At the same time, it is very important to prevent overheating of the set, since in this case the germination of onion sets will decrease very noticeably.

If you did not manage to gradually warm up the set, then before planting, be sure to fill it with hot water (45-50ºС) for only 10-15 minutes, and then immediately cool it in cold water.

It is very good if, after warming up, we still treat the seeds with some kind of growth stimulator (for example, Zircon, Humisol, Growth-1), or, instead, you can hold it in a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for 5-6 hours.

And in conclusion, it remains only to disinfect the sevka bulbs in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Well, now the sevok is ready for landing.

Planting sevka

The timing of planting onion sets is directly dependent on weather conditions. If the spring is early and warm, then you can plant sevok at the end of April, and if it is cold, then you need to wait until the earth warms up to the depth of a finger.

It makes no sense to plant onions in unheated ground (temperature below 12ºС), as it will go to the arrow. But it is also impossible to be late with landing, especially if the spring is warm and dry.

This can lead to the fact that at first the green feather will develop intensively in the plant, and the root system will begin to lag behind in its development, and then, due to lack of moisture and high temperature, the onion greens will stop growing, but the formed bulbs will still develop slowly and stay small.

So the well-known proverb “If you throw it in the dirt, you will be a prince” fully applies to the bow too. You can only clarify - in the warm mud)))

We plant onion sets on the prepared beds in rows, having previously sorted them by size. So we plant sevok with a diameter of up to 1 cm at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other; up to 1.5 cm in diameter - at a distance of 6-8 cm; up to 2 cm in diameter - at a distance of 8-10 cm.

The distance between the rows is best to take about 20 cm, so that it is better to process the onion and so that the plantings are better ventilated.

The planted bulbs are pressed tightly with earth and covered with a layer of mulch about 2.5-3 cm thick on top. A week after planting, the first shoots may appear.

Landing Care

Loosening. It is possible (even necessary) to start caring for onion plantings even before germination, since at this time one should try to prevent the formation of a dense crust of the earth.

Therefore, we will often loosen the soil, which will also help us get rid of weeds. And in the future, loosening the soil should be carried out regularly to ensure a constant supply of a sufficient amount of oxygen to the roots of the plant. Especially onions need to loosen the soil after watering.

When our onions reach an average size, we begin to gradually rake the earth away from them (disintegrate). This is done so that they grow larger and mature faster.

Watering. As mentioned above, onions need watering in the first half of the growing season. At this time, water the plants abundantly and regularly about 1-2 times a week (depending on the weather).

In July, when the bulbs begin to ripen, excess moisture is no longer needed, so we first reduce watering, and then stop 2-3 weeks before harvesting the onions.

The only thing is that if the summer is very hot and dry, plantings can be watered occasionally to avoid wilting and stunting of the bulbs.

Weeding. It is also necessary to prevent overgrowth of onion plantings with weeds, as they create high humidity, which contributes to the development of fungal diseases.

In addition, onions growing on unweeded beds form a thick juicy neck, which makes it difficult to further dry the onions and, accordingly, store them. Therefore, let's pay special attention to weeding onions.

Top dressing. The first time we feed about 15-20 days after planting and, preferably, diluted slurry (1 kg of manure per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1 kg of droppings per 15 liters of water). Fertilizer consumption is calculated at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m.

The next time such a nutritious top dressing can be done in three weeks.

If you are going to feed onions with mineral fertilizers, then first apply nitrogen. It can be ammonium nitrate - 10-15 g per 1 sq. m.

And in three weeks it will be nice to add potassium fertilizers in the same amount to nitrogen fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers can be applied dry by sprinkling them on the beds before watering or before rain, or you can pre-dissolve them in water and water the beds with this solution.

Treatment. Since diseases are easier to prevent than to treat, it is possible to carry out preventive treatment of onion plantings against fungal diseases and onion flies.

To do this, you need to make the following solution: 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride, 1 tablespoon of liquid soap, dilute in 10 liters of water and spray onion leaves.

Processing is best done when the onion leaves reach a length of 12-15 cm.

For preventive purposes, it is also possible to dust plants and earth with wood ash, tobacco dust. After 20 days, the treatment can be repeated.

onion harvesting

Onion ripening time largely depends on the weather and ranges from July to early September. The main signals of onion readiness for harvesting are: the cessation of the formation of young leaves, lodging of leaves, as well as their yellowing and drying, the bulb neck becomes soft and thinner, the bulbs acquire a characteristic color for this variety.

And here it is already impossible to delay the cleaning, otherwise the plants may begin to re-grow roots and such an onion will be stored much worse.

In addition, we must try to remove the onion until the air temperature at night has decreased and the morning dew has not begun. The bulbs, together with the tops, are carefully removed from the ground and laid out to dry and ripen in a well-ventilated area.

Ideally, of course, it is better to dry it right in the garden under the sun, but at this time the weather is very changeable and there are usually no such fine days (7-10) in a row. So it's better not to risk it.

During the drying time, all the nutrients from the remains of the leaves pass into the bulbs. Then we cut off the dried leaves and the remains of the roots, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long and lay out the onion for additional drying, but already in a heated room.

Within 8-10 days, the onion is kept at a temperature of 25-30ºС. If possible, it would be good at the end of this drying for 10-12 hours to hold the onion at a temperature of up to 40ºС.

This procedure well disinfects the onion from various pathogenic infections and increases its keeping quality during storage.

That, it seems, is all that I wanted to tell you about the general requirements for growing onions and growing onions from onion sets. In the next article, we will talk about how to grow onions from seeds, how to get onion seeds, and how you can grow turnips in one year.

See you soon, dear readers!

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How to grow large onion bulbs?

Growing onions to obtain a head (bulb) in the summer cottages of experienced gardeners does not cause difficulties. However, in order to get large (200-400 g) bulbs, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the cultivation technique, which has its own characteristics.

General Approaches to Getting Healthy Quality Onions

Large onions start with seeds. Onions per bulb (head) can be grown through seeds (nigella), sevok (arbazheyka) and seedlings. On the garden wedge of a summer cottage for growing large onion bulbs for the purpose of eating and winter storage, it is more practical to grow a crop from sevka.

Bulb onions

To get a crop of large heads (up to 200-400 g) of onions, several conditions are necessary:

selection of a zoned variety with a large bulb;
proper storage of seed;
compliance with the requirements of agricultural cultivation.

Varieties and size of the bulb

Do you want to get a large onion? Be attentive to the planted varieties. Onion is a long-day plant and reacts painfully to the ratio of the dark and light periods of the day. Onions have a very interesting varietal feature of the reaction to the length of daylight hours. Culture tolerates climate change more easily than lack of daylight hours.

Southern varieties of onions are genetically predisposed to grow and form a storage organ (bulb) as the length of daylight hours approaches its maximum - 13-15 hours. The approach of the maximum in the south takes a long period, and the zoned variety has time to build up a large vegetative mass, including a large storage organ.

If the southern variety of onions is planted in the northern region, where daylight hours in the summer season very quickly reach a maximum of 15-18 hours, the plants will tend to finish the growing season as soon as possible and form bulbs. The formation of the storage organ (bulb) means the end of development, and retirement. Bulbs do not have time to gain mass and remain small.

Northern varieties of onions planted in the south will constantly form leaf mass in anticipation of the onset of the longest day at 15-18 hours. And since in the south the maximum length of daylight hours ends at the 15 o'clock mark, the culture continues to increase the leaf mass, and the bulb does not form at all. The variety does not have enough light time to move on to the next phase of development.

Therefore, dear readers, if you want to get a large onion bulb, be sure to take into account the reaction of the culture to photoperiodicity. Grow southern varieties of onions in the south, and northern varieties in the north. Otherwise, the onion heads will be small, unripe, or not formed at all. In this case, both a large-headed, but not zoned variety, and the fulfillment of all the requirements of agricultural technology will not ensure the production of a large bulb.

Onion

Selection and storage of seed

It is possible to get a high yield of large onion bulbs only when sown with high-quality seed, which can be purchased in a store or grown on your own and stored properly before planting in the ground.

When self-harvesting seed, it is necessary, after harvesting and drying the crop of onions, to divide them into fractions:

Oatmeal, 0.5-0.7 cm in diameter;
Group I, 0.8-1.5 cm in diameter;
II group, 1.5-2.2 cm in diameter.

The best for sowing is considered arbazheyka I and II groups.

Before planting, the selected seedlings are stored in a cool room at a temperature of 0 ... + 2 ° C and not higher, and in a warm room at + 17 ... + 18 ° C (away from heating batteries).

If the temperature regime was violated and the arbazheyka was stored at home at a temperature of + 2 ... + 15 ° С, it makes no sense to hope for a quality crop of onions. With a spring landing in open ground, such onion sets will begin to shoot. A thick hollow peduncle will take away some of the nutrients, the onion bulb will be small. In addition, the base of the peduncle in the bulb will serve as a source of decay in the autumn-winter period.

Thus, the obligatory conditions for obtaining a crop of large bulbs of onions are the variety and quality of planting material.

Onion growing technology

Precursors of the onion

Good predecessors for onions in the crop rotation are tomatoes, cucumbers, early and medium potatoes, zucchini, legumes, early cabbage. Onions are well combined with carrots, beets, radishes, greens, which allows these crops to be used as compactors in combined beds.

Planting onions

Planting period

Onion sets can be planted in late autumn or early spring. In practice, spring planting of onions is preferable. Climatic cataclysms of recent years can provoke early shoots and their death during return frosts, cause partial rotting of the set during the winter. The stress state of plants will cause the formation of small bulbs.

Depending on weather conditions and warming up of the soil, arbazheyka is sown in warm regions in the last decade of March - early April, in colder regions (middle lane) - in the last decade of April - early May. In the northern regions, after the frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to + 6 ... + 10 ° С.

The optimal soil temperature for sowing seedlings is +10…+12°С, and air +3…+5°С.

Shoots of onions will appear on the 5th - 6th day. If you plant sevok in unheated soil, it will begin to shoot. If you are late with planting, then, once in dry, overheated soil, the onion will slow down its development and will not form a large bulb. That is, in order to obtain a large onion bulb, it is very important to withstand the timing of planting the seedlings.

Onion seedlings are tolerant of cold weather and easily tolerate short-term frosts down to -3°C. But during autumn planting and the onset of spring return frosts, grown plants stop growing and developing when the temperature drops to -3 ... -5 ° C, which subsequently affects the size of the bulb.

Preparing seed for planting:

Select for planting only absolutely healthy onion sets;
Cut the dry tips at the top of the set carefully with scissors;
To protect the sevka from fungal infections, be sure to disinfect with hot water, potassium permanganate solution, and other known methods. Decontaminated onions are dried at room temperature until flowable. Until planting, it is stored in a damp burlap.
The next day, they are planted in prepared soil.

The requirement of onions to the soil

Onions do not tolerate acidic soils and fresh organic matter. Therefore, when growing in crop rotation, organics and deoxidizers are introduced 2-3 years before planting onions under previous crops. Onions do not like liming the soil, therefore, if deoxidation is necessary in the year of planting, 3-4 cups of ash per square meter are applied for the main tillage. m area.

For normal growth and development of plants, the soil under onions must have a neutral pH = 6.4-6.7 units, be moisture-intensive, permeable, fertile.

Planting material of onion - sevok

Fertilization

Onions take significant amounts of nutrients out of the soil with the harvest, but they do not need to be fed. Uniform supply of nutrients and moisture during the growing season will contribute to the constant growth of the vegetative mass of the bulb. On depleted and dense soils, from autumn, under the main digging of the soil for onions, ripened crumbly humus is introduced no more than 1 / 3-1 / 2 buckets per square meter. m or sow green manure. Rye, oats, mustard, rapeseed loosen the soil well. On dense floating soils, you can use mustard with legumes, sweet clover, vetch-oat mixture. Mixed green manure crops will not only loosen the soil, but also saturate it with available nutrients.

From mineral fertilizers, nitroammophoska 50-60 g / sq. m. or only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, respectively 25-30 and 15-25 g / sq. m, and in the spring, urea is added for sowing no more than 20-25 g / sq. m.

If the soils are depleted and higher rates of fertilizers are required, then it is better to apply 2/3 of the dose from the fall, and apply the rest in the spring before planting.

Rules for landing arbazheyka

Sowing is carried out in the prepared soil in a single-row way or in 2-3-line tapes. In the tape, 8-12 cm are left between the rows and 20-25 cm between the tapes.

With the first method, in a row between the bulbs, the distance can be different:

When planting "shoulder to shoulder", the planting density is high, since the distance between sets in a row is 1.0-1.5 cm. With this planting method, 2 thinnings are carried out:
at the first thinning, the distance is increased to 4 cm, and the young onion-feather is used for food;
after 25-30 days, a second thinning is carried out, leaving a distance between young plants of 7-10 cm.

The second landing method is an ordinary one. Sevok is planted at a distance in a row after 8-10 cm, between rows - 20 cm. Thinning is not carried out. Arbazheyka is placed in the furrows vertically upwards, to a depth of up to 4 cm, covered with soil from above by 2.0-2.5 cm and slightly compacted with the palm of your hand.

green onion

Caring for onions during the growing season

It is very important to keep the soil moist, loose and free of weeds during the growing season. Weeds shade the bulbous zone at the base of the plants and provoke the accumulation of a fungal infection. Mulching post-watering onions is a must. The crust that forms after watering causes an uneven supply of moisture to the topsoil (sometimes dry, sometimes wet), which reduces the possibility of forming a large bulb. Loosening is only superficial, in wide aisles. When loosening in a row, damage to superficially located roots negatively affects the growth of the bulb. Onions cannot be spudded. On the contrary, during the growth of the bulb, the “fashionista” opens her shoulders towards the sun. A significant role in the formation of a large bulb belongs to timely watering.

Watering onions

Watering and top dressing for onions in the first 2-3 months are especially important. Interruptions in the supply of nutrients and violation of the irrigation regime during this period lead to small onion heads and a loss of its taste.

Approximate frequency of watering:

The first month, watering is carried out once a week with the obligatory subsequent loosening and mulching with crushed mulch. Pests settle under large mulch, fungal infection accumulates. Fine mulch keeps the topsoil from drying out and quickly decomposes when exposed to moisture. During this period, the soil during irrigation is soaked up to a 10 cm layer.
In June, by the bulb growth phase, the number of irrigations is reduced to a 10-day break, but the soil is soaked to a 20-25 cm layer. To avoid stagnant water, watering is carried out with small sprays.
In July, watering is carried out every 8-10 days as needed (avoiding the drying of the soil in the root layer).
In the second half of July, the soil is only kept moist, and they switch to “dry watering”. The soil is loosened, mulched, be sure to get rid of weeds.
2-3 weeks before harvesting, watering is stopped and the shoulders of the bulbs are gently “exposed” from the ground. The procedure contributes to the ripening of the bulb, especially the stem at the base. Unripe stems in winter are affected by fungal-bacterial rot.

Watering errors

Watering with high pressure breaks the feather, causing interruptions in the supply of nutrients to the plant, weakening it. The plant is sick.
Do not water onions with cold water. When watering with water below + 18 ° C, the culture becomes ill with powdery mildew.
It is necessary to keep plantings absolutely clean from weeds, not allowing them to grow above 5-8 cm.
On an area clogged with non-weeding and improperly watered, the onion root collars remain juicy, which sharply reduces the keeping quality of the bulb.

A bunch of onions

Feeding onions

The formation of large bulbs require a fairly large amount of nutrients. Their entry to the culture should be uniform, without starvation breaks and overfeeding. Onions are best fertilized with nutrient solutions. The introduction of dry dressings is not so effective.

The first dressing of onions

With sufficient basic soil dressing, the first top dressing of onions can be postponed to June, and if necessary, it is carried out after 2-3 weeks from germination. Thin light feathers - a signal to feed.

For top dressing, a spoonful of ammonium nitrate or urea is diluted in 10 liters of warm water. Bring under a root on 10-12 linear meters. If the soil (for various reasons) was not sufficiently fertilized before planting, then it is better to carry out the first top dressing with complete fertilizer using nitroammophoska, Kemiru-lux, crystallin in the form of a solution (25-30 g / 10 l of water). After top dressing, the plants must be washed with watering with a fine-mesh nozzle.

The second dressing of onions

The second top dressing is carried out in the second decade of June with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. 20 and 10 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are dissolved in 10 liters of warm water and applied under the root of the plants. During this period, instead of a phosphorus-potassium mixture, you can once again feed the plants with nitroammophos, increasing the concentration of the solution to 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Additionally, foliar top dressing with microelements or boron is carried out with the addition of an ash extract (0.5 l per 10 l of water).

The third dressing of onions

The third top dressing is carried out if necessary, if the development of the bulb slows down. The third top dressing is carried out with the size of the bulb the size of a walnut, usually with a solution of superphosphate. 40 g of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water. The flow rate of the solution is approximately 5 l/sq. m of landing area.

It should be noted that onions on fertile and well-filled soils with mineral fertilizers can not be fed with fertilizers, limiting themselves to fertilizing with microelements and ash extract.

Onion

Protection of onions from diseases and pests

To protect onions from diseases and pests, plants are treated for preventive purposes with biofungicides (against diseases) and bioinsecticides (against pests). The most common biofungicides are planriz, gaupsin, alirin-B, trichodermin, glyokladin.t Actofit, aversectin-C, bitoxibacillin, verticillin, bicol are used for pest control. Treatment solutions are best prepared in tank mixes. The selection of biological products, their dosage and mixing should always be carried out according to the instructions. Processing of onions is carried out at least 3-5 times during the growing season in the morning. The last treatment can be carried out 2-3 days before harvest. Biopreparations are absolutely safe for people and animals.

Treatments begin at the first visible change in feather color or plant condition.

Harvesting onions

The beginning of harvesting is determined by the state of the above-ground mass of the onion. Depending on the variety:

plant leaves turn yellow
lie down,
lose turgor, etc.

When harvesting, onions are pulled out of the soil, left for 1-2 weeks under a canopy for final drying. Dried onions are sorted out and dense bulbs with a dry root neck, covered with dry upper scales, are laid for winter storage. Before laying in a container for storage, the dried stems are cut by 3-5 cm into a stump or braided and hung in a dry, warm place.

Harvesting onions

Thus, the cultivation of onions with a large bulb requires careful implementation of agricultural practices, the main of which are:

selection of a zoned variety;
seed quality;
timeliness of sowing;
compliance with the rules of care, which include timely watering and top dressing, keeping the soil moist, weed-free, with optimal plant density.

Qualitative fulfillment of the requirements of agricultural technology creates all the prerequisites for obtaining a high yield of large bulbs.

www.botanichka.ru

Why do onions grow small?

So, let's start with what generally prefers onions, which is more acceptable to him. Onions, in order to get large, should not grow in the same area every year, it is best to choose a different area for it every year.

But we have described only what needs to be done immediately before planting, in order for the bulbs to be large, there are secrets of preplant preparation of the bulbs. For example, we strongly recommend that before planting, soak them for 1-2 minutes in a 1.5% solution of potassium permanganate, having previously removed the husk that disappears almost by itself, that is, completely dry. After soaking the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate, transfer the bulbs to any container filled with wet sawdust and soak for several hours so that the excess potassium permanganate is absorbed into the sawdust.

About watering separately - you need at least ten waterings per season, but you need to water it depending on the "weather outside the window", if it's dry, then a bucket of water per square meter is a must, but if it's raining, then you can forget about watering. You can completely stop watering only a month before harvesting to allow the onion to ripen. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil, the onion does not tolerate the crust on the surface well, its roots must breathe, so pay attention to the soil surface more often - if it is too compacted. The soil is especially compacted and a crust forms after heavy rains or irrigation.

Well, do not forget about top dressing, do not be too zealous, usually a good onion is obtained even with periodic top dressing with ordinary wood ash. The amount of ash is 100-120 g per square meter - the frequency is 2-3 times per season.

And of course, before planting, always and very carefully select onions, take the most healthy, well-made, not damaged or diseased, nothing good will grow out of them anyway.

N.V. Khromov, Ph.D. biol. Sciences, gazetasadovod.ru