Is it possible to transplant winter onions in the spring. Growing perennial onions. Bow can be decorative? Unique decoration for your garden

Look for an unusual plant to decorate a flower bed or garden plot, then you can start growing decorative onions, planting and caring for which has a number of rules and you must follow them. Another common name is allium. There are many varieties that differ in appearance, but they are all planted according to the same pattern.

Decorative bow in landscape design

In order to figure out how to properly combine the presented plant with other flower crops, it is necessary to consider its description.

1. Flower arrows, depending on the variety, can grow up to 70 cm. The green mass is represented by linear leaves.
2. When figuring out what a decorative bow looks like, it is worth pointing out that they have a rounded inflorescence, the diameter of which can be 4-7 cm.
3. Flowering continues for 18-20 days and begins in June.

Decorative onions, planting and caring for which is based on the characteristics of the plant, are recommended to be combined with crops that bloom at the same time, for example, poppies, irises or peonies can be used. The original composition will be obtained by combining alliums and roses. A dense landing looks great, so there should be 50-70 pieces per 1 m2. Ornamental onions can be planted to create a hedge.

Decorative onion - varieties

There are a large number of species that can be planted on your site:

1. Bow decorative Gladiator. The giant allium can grow up to 1.5 m in height. It also stands out for its luxurious inflorescences, the diameter of which can reach up to 25 cm. This type of ornamental onion begins to bloom in June and ends in 2-3 weeks. The flowers are lilac or purple in color.


2. Onion decorative Blue. Original flowers of a beautiful color will decorate the flower bed and backyard territory. Bulbs reach 2 cm in diameter. The stem of this variety reaches a height of up to 1 m and leaves are located in its lower part. The bell-shaped flowers are small and bulbous. Flowering is observed in July.


3. Decorative bow Ivory Queen. In this variety, the stem can reach a height of up to 25-35 cm, and on top there are lush flowers reaching a diameter of up to 12 cm. The inflorescences are ivory in color. The variety also stands out for its chic leaves, which are wide, corrugated and green-blue in color. It is worth noting the bright fragrant aroma.


4. Bow decorative Globemaster. The presented variety was obtained by crossing several species. It is popular due to its gigantic size. Decorative allium onions can grow above 1 m, but the diameter of the inflorescences is 20-30 cm. Flowering is observed in June.


5. Bow decorative Giganteum. Already from the name it is clear that this plant is tall, so the height can reach up to 1.5 m. The inflorescences cannot be called huge, so the diameter does not exceed 10 cm. The flowers are painted in a bright purple hue.


6. Decorative bow Schnitt. There are other names: "skoroda" or "Siberian onion". It is characterized by fast growth, strong branching and succulent subulate leaves. Flowering occurs in June and is represented by bell-shaped flowers. The color varies from pale pink to dark crimson.


7. Bow decorative Chameleon. This is a perennial bulbous crop, which has star-shaped flowers collected in ball-shaped inflorescences. They are creamy pink in color with dark lines in the center of the petals. The height is 50 cm. Abundant flowering is observed from May to July.

Decorative bow - planting

To grow this ornamental crop, it is important to carefully select a site for planting. The soil should be neutral and well-drained, and do not forget about the need for natural light. For a rich flowering of decorative onions, planting and care involve soil application, which is important for the rapid germination of the bulb and good development. If the earth is acidic, then carry out its liming or alkalization. There are several secrets regarding the proper cultivation of perennial ornamental onions.

How to plant decorative onions?

There is a certain scheme regarding how to properly land:

1. In the selected area, make holes that should not be large. Calculate that they should fit three bulbs, 15 cm deep for a large bulb, and 10 cm for a small one.
2. Add fertilizer and pour in some water.
3. Plant ornamental garden onions so that the distance between the bulbs is 25-30 cm if a tall variety is chosen, and 10 cm if a short one.
4. Fill the hole with soil and lightly flatten it. If there are severe frosts, then the landing site is recommended to be carried out using dry manure or peat.

When to plant ornamental onions?

Planting can be carried out both in autumn and in spring, and it all depends on the chosen plant variety. When using early-flowering varieties, they must be sown in the fall and better in September. As a result, the bulbs will have time to take root. If garden ornamental onions of late-flowering varieties are used, then planting can be carried out in the spring from late April to early May.

Decorative onion - cultivation

At a permanent place, this plant can be for 4-5 years, and then, you will have to transplant. When figuring out how to grow decorative onions, it is worth noting that while the peduncle is preparing for flowering, the leaves often begin to die off. Experienced gardeners do not recommend cutting them off, allowing them to die off naturally. After flowering is over, it is recommended to regularly loosen the soil and use potash fertilizers.

How to propagate decorative onions?

Two methods can be used to increase the number of plantings:

1. Reproduction by seeds. Carry out the procedure in spring or autumn. It is important that the seeds ripen naturally. In the first year, seed propagation of ornamental onions, planting and caring for which is identical to other flower crops, produces small bulbs. Please note that flowering will come only after 3-6 years.
2. vegetative reproduction. During transplantation, divide the overgrown bulbs into parts, and plant according to the rules indicated above. You also need to know how decorative onions propagate with bulbs. Cut off faded heads, treat them and plant as you would with seeds.

Transplanting ornamental onions

So that the plant does not disappear and blooms every year, it is recommended to dig up the bulbs every year after flowering, dry them and keep them in a well-ventilated place until next autumn. Understanding when to transplant ornamental onions, it is worth pointing out that if cultivation is carried out in a dry climate, then an annual transplant is not necessary. In this case, it will be necessary to plant the plant every 3-5 years, separating the children. When transplanting, consider the following features:

1. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb.
2. After transplantation, the top layer of soil must be mulched with humus or peat.

Decorative bow - care

There are several secrets regarding proper care, without which it will not work to get a beautiful and flowering plant:

1. After watering the next day, loosen the soil. This is important for closing moisture and enriching the soil with oxygen.
2. In winter, the “decorative onion” flower needs additional care - shelter, and pine spruce branches or special material must be used for this purpose.
3. Do not cut the leaves and let them die off on their own. After that, you can dig up the onions and separate the children.

Decorative onions in the garden - top dressing

Preparing the site for planting involves the introduction of rotted compost and mineral fertilizer with useful trace elements, the composition of which depends on fertility indicators. In order for a decorative onion to grow well, planting and care implies taking into account the following rules:

1. Since the plant is bulbous, it is sensitive to a lack of potassium in the soil. Proper care involves the introduction of wood ash. It is necessary to carry out top dressing in the spring after the growth of leaves and during the formation of buds.
2. Decorative flowering onions at the end of summer need to be fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
3. In the spring, use complex mineral fertilizers for care, choosing options with a high nitrogen content and nitrate form.

Garden ornamental onion - watering

During the first half of the growing season, regular watering is necessary. This is due to the fact that foliage is actively developing at this time. It is important that the water does not stagnate, as this can cause root rot and various diseases. Growing ornamental onions allows for short-term waterlogging, but this is only permissible in well-drained soil.

Decorative onion - diseases and pests

Under adverse growing conditions and improper care, the plant may suffer from various diseases and be attacked by pests.

1. Downy mildew. When this disease of an ornamental onion appears, vague spots of a pale green color are observed on the leaves and flower arrows, and a mycelium with spores of a gray-violet hue also develops. As a result, decorativeness is lost. Remove the affected areas, and in the spring the allium must be sprayed with fungicides.
2. Bow rust. In the presence of this disease, with the onset of heat, orange balls can be seen on the leaves, and after a while spores form. To destroy the problem, the problematic parts are removed and sprayed with products that contain copper.
3. Black mold. Decorative onions, planting and care of which are carried out with errors, can become infected with this disease in the middle of summer. Symptoms include yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of plaque. Treatment is identical to the previous options.
4. Cercosporosis. The disease occurs at the beginning of summer and it appears on the leaves and peduncles in the form of gray spots. As a result, the onion turns yellow, and the decorative effect is lost. Control measures are the same as for rust.

How to grow perennial onions

BOW-BATUN

perennial bows- productive, unpretentious, winter-hardy, ubiquitous.
Perennial bows include:
Bow-batun
chives
Slime Bow
Allium fragrant

This article is about Luku-batun.

general description

Perennial. In one place it can be grown up to 5 years. And then the overgrown curtains (bushes) of the onion are divided and seated. Thus propagating their onion plots. Or you can just sow new seeds.

Onion batun is also called Tatarka, winter, sandy, fistulous.
This is perhaps the most common type of perennial onion.
He comes from Eastern Siberia and China.

Its leaves are long, green, hollow, like the greens of an ordinary onion, only wider. They taste juicy and spicy. And vitamin C contains 2 times more than onions.

Batun onion is used only for greens, because its turnip is very small, the so-called "false". By the way, you can also eat it, it is juicy and tasty))

Agricultural technology

The onion-batun is propagated by seeds or by dividing the bush.

On my site, I grew my first batun from a purchased bag of seeds.
One bag was enough for me to plant a whole bed of onion-batun 3 m long and 0.75 m wide.

The seeds were sown in the spring at the beginning of May (Yaroslavl region) to a depth of 1 cm.
Since I sowed them thickly, I had to thin out the seedlings when they reached a height of 15 cm. I left a distance between seedlings of 10-15 cm. The pulled out batun, of course, went for food.

The remaining plants branched out over the years, grew, forming beautiful lush bushes. I transplanted them to a specially designated bed near young garden trees already at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other to give the bow more light and space.

The place for the bow-batun was taken away sunny. This is not even a bed, but just rows on a plot with a flat soil surface.
The distance between the bushes in a row is about 30-40 cm, and between the rows - 60 cm.

Weed, water, loosen as needed. I feed, which will be discussed below.

Bloom

Batun onion is considered an excellent honey plant and blooms very beautifully. Of course it's a matter of taste, but I like it. These are large spherical flowers, slightly rising above the bushes of onion-batun and attracting an incredible number of bees, bumblebees and butterflies.

At the peak of flowering, it’s even scary to walk past the onion bushes, so many bees and bumblebees are buzzing around them. And how many butterflies fly! Here, by the way, there is a small collection of photographs in which I captured one of these "invasions". Look, it's interesting))

In our country (Yaroslavl region), flowering begins in the second half of June and lasts about two weeks. Although, of course, the weather affects the period and longitude of flowering.

Reproduction by seeds

Batun onion gives seeds that have time to fully ripen right on the bush somewhere by the end of July.
It is easy to check how ripe the seeds are. It is enough to take the peduncle by the stem and shake it slightly. And if the seeds easily spill out of their boxes into the palm of your hand, then they are ripe.

The seeds are dry, small, about the size of a match head, black in color, have ribs.

Seeds can be collected and immediately sown in another place to obtain young plants of the batun.

I do not collect the seeds, but let them sow themselves around the bushes. I have a well-groomed garden with onions, there are no weeds, so I can afford such self-sowing. In late July - early August, the seeds germinate magnificently and begin to grow.
On a well-groomed garden bed, no weeds interfere with the development of young sprouts-threads. Sun and moisture are also quite enough for them.

Young sprouts leave before winter, winter well under the snow, and in the spring they form young bushes, which I plant (if I need to) or distribute to my neighbors.
If you did not have time to transplant in early spring, then you can postpone this procedure until August.

Batun onion - as an annual or biennial crop

Sometimes I grow onions as an annual, and sometimes as a biennial.

Batun onion - like an annual.
In the spring (late April - early May), sow the seeds in the prepared soil.
In September, collect juicy green onions directly from false bulbs, which are not very large and very tasty (the roots are cut off from them).

Batun onion - like a biennial.
In the 1st year, at the end of July - beginning of August, sow the collected seeds in the prepared soil and let them germinate and get stronger before the onset of winter.
And in the 2nd year, already from July to September, you can harvest fresh herbs for food by tearing the onion out of the ground right along with the bulb.

This method of growing onions (biennial or annual) is very convenient, because in the fall, fresh green onions can no longer be harvested from either perennial onions or onions.

Frost resistance and cold resistance

Onion-batun is frost-resistant. In the literature they write that it withstands thirty-degree frosts. From my own observations, I’ll say that when in 2009 in November frosts hit -35o and lasted for a whole week, and there was no snow at all, then the onion batun (and the bed with it was without shelter) perfectly survived these frosts and in the spring, no matter how what had not happened pleased with the greenery. Under the snow, the onion-batun is not afraid of frost and at -40 degrees. We had such frosts in January 2006 and lasted a week.

In the spring, batun sprouts appear very early, as the ground thaws, and in some places there is still snow. Spring return frosts and falling snow are not at all terrible for its shoots. Young seedlings withstand spring frosts on soil down to -7 degrees without any shelter.

drought tolerance

Onion-batun is moisture-loving. Therefore, it should be watered preferably every day on dry days. Of course, the batun will survive the drought without watering. It just won't produce many juicy leaves. And what will be on the bush will not go to food at all. The leaf will be dry, hard, fibrous and tasteless. The resulting seeds will germinate poorly. An example of this is the abnormally dry summer of 2010, when there was not enough water for all garden crops. And the bow-batun had to rely on its own strength. This affected the yield, but not the onion plot as a whole. By the way, in September 2010, when it started to rain, the onion responded to this and pleased us with juicy greenery in October.

top dressing

I periodically feed the onion bushes with wood ash. During the summer I give at least two top dressings. Three is better.
The first is in early spring, when the regrowth of leaves is just beginning.
The second - in a couple of weeks.
The third top dressing is somewhere in August - September, when the onion-batun has already shed its seeds.

I pour ashes right under the bushes and on them. How many? Hard to say. I just generously dust with ashes both the bushes and the soil around them. Batun onions are generally responsive to ash and are not afraid of the “strength” of this natural mineral fertilizer. In addition, ash is a good prevention against diseases and pests.
I also throw a scoop of compost under the bushes (once a season, I don’t have enough for more).

Previously, I mulched the beds (covered the ground around the bushes with sawdust and mowed grass). This technique retains moisture in the soil, and gives additional nutrition to the plant. But recently I have refused to mulch beds with onion-batun because of the laboriousness of this process and I keep them under black fallow, that is, I loosen and weed.

Harvest and preparation for winter

I harvest, that is, I cut the leaves from May and throughout the summer as needed.
I pick off leaves that are more than 20 cm long, at their very base.
I try to pluck one leaf from each "branch" (ie, false bulb).
Before that, I look at how many leaves are on the "branch". If one or two, then I don’t touch this “branch” at all. I pluck only from those "branches" on which there are three or more leaves.

I don’t completely cut off the bushes (and they consist of several “branches”, that is, false bulbs)! From one bush I will take five leaves, then I go to another. The next day, I collect leaves from other bushes. And so in a circle.

It seems to me that such a harvest of onions is easier to endure. He will have enough strength to restore his green mass.

The collected leaf goes into salads, soups, or eaten just like that - dipped in salt and a bite with black bread and potatoes. Tasty-looking!

In autumn (since the second half of September) I stop collecting leaves. If autumn drags on and the weather is warm for a long time, then from October I stop collecting leaves.

The remaining leaves from the bushes of onion-batun NOT I delete it, although experts advise doing this in order to avoid the spread of diseases and pests and so that in the spring the old leaf does not retard the growth of new ones.
But the bushes of my onion-batun go into the winter with a leaf. It seems to me that it is easier for him to spend the winter in our area. Nutrients completely leave the leaf to the false bulb, thereby giving it additional strength. Although, maybe I'm wrong. But so far I have not seen negative results of my approach.
In the spring, I clean last year's dried leaves directly with my hands (they are easily removed from the bushes) or carefully sweep them with a rake. Sometimes I forget about them

Mouse Protection

As a frost-resistant crop, batun does not require shelter. But if mice roam on the site, who like to feast on false onion bulbs, making their way to them right under the snow, then you need to take care of the shelter.

At one time there were a lot of mice in our garden, and every spring I found bushes of onion-batun eaten away by 80% or more. The bushes, of course, were restored during the summer. But the yield was not as great as we would like.
Therefore, I had to resort to the following methods:

Method 1.
At the first autumn frosts, she covered the onion-batun with a dense layer of spruce branches (spruce branches). From above, the spruce branches were pressed to the ground with boards and bricks so that the mice could not crawl under the branches to the onion-batun.

But this is a somewhat laborious method. Can be made easier:

Method 2.
To do this, you need old pots and buckets without a bottom. I put them directly on the bush with the narrow part down so that the bush was in the middle of the pot or bucket. This is a great mouse deterrent. The bushes remained intact.

Lately I haven’t been covering the bow-batun with anything, because I don’t observe the invasion of mice.

Diseases and pests

Batun onions are almost not affected by pests and diseases with proper agricultural technology.
But, nevertheless, he can get sick or suffer from pests.

* Onion fire (pest)
I personally encountered onion moth in the first year of growing onion-batun. But she quickly won.
Signs of onion moth - onion leaves are eaten away from the inside so that only a thin skin on top remains. If you cut such a leaf lengthwise and open it, then inside you can find a small (no more than 1 cm) light green caterpillar.
By the way, this caterpillar affects not only the batun, but also all types of onions.
Control measures.
Experts recommend spraying with a solution against pests (insecticide) of contact action, for example, Fufanon or Karbafos, at the first sign of damage. True, in this case, onions for greens will not be eaten. So this should be resorted to in the most extreme cases, if the pest is too much and it threatens the life of the plant. Although in this case, in my opinion, it makes sense to simply remove the affected plant and grow a new one from seeds.
Of course, proper agricultural practices help against onion fire (and other pests) - loosening the soil, destroying affected leaves. I used this particular method and folk remedies for struggle and prevention, read about it below.

* Onion weevil (pest).
Signs - on the leaves of the onion light dots, injections. They are left by the beetle itself, 2-2.7 mm long.
The passages are gnawed in the leaves, then the leaves turn yellow and die. This is already a weevil larva - yellow, legless, bent, up to 7 mm long.
Control measures are agrotechnical: loosening the soil, removing and destroying damaged leaves, and, of course, the folk methods of struggle described below.

* Downy mildew (disease).
Signs - a gray-purple mold appears on the leaves, the leaves turn pale and, starting from the tips, die off. The bulb itself stops growing and becomes a little soft, although outwardly it does not differ from a healthy one.
Especially this disease can affect onions in damp and cool summers, with dense plantings. The infection is carried by wind, rain, the gardener himself, as well as through infected planting material.
Control measures - spray with a solution against diseases, for example, copper sulfate (100-200 grams per bucket) or "HOM". Repeat the procedure 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. But in this case, it will no longer be possible to use onions for greens this year! Just to save the plants themselves. However, I repeat that with a strong spread of the disease, it would be better to simply dig out the diseased onion, and sow a new one in another place.
Of course, proper onion care (agrotechnics) and dusting the onion with wood ash will help prevent this unpleasant disease.

I did not use chemistry on my onion-batun, because I really want to eat it here and now right from the garden))
The lesions, for example, from the onion moth on my bow were not very strong, so I simply removed the leaves damaged by the moth.
And although it is believed that it is impossible to prevent the appearance of, say, moths, it seems to me that with good care of the garden where onions grow, you can not worry about the appearance of onion moths and other pests.

There are a number Folk ways, which are a good prevention against the appearance of many pests and diseases on the onion. Here are some of them that I tried myself and am satisfied with the effect:

1. Pour directly over the leaves with a strong solution of mustard powder. Concentration does not matter - the more the better. There will be no harm from mustard onions)) Onion fire, for example, does not like mustard watering.

2. Periodically water the batun (and all types of onions) with very cold water. I don’t remember where I read this recommendation as a prophylaxis against onion pests. But I used this method because of its simplicity and accessibility. We have well water, ice cold. So I arranged for my bow in May-July several times such a “hardening” shower. I don’t know about pests, but I noticed that onion greens became especially juicy and green))

3. Water with a salt solution (2-3 times per season). Dissolve 1 cup of salt in a bucket of water and pour over. Sometimes I did this - just sprinkled the beds with coarse rock salt (available in grocers) before watering or before rain. Sprinkled on the eye, but it turned out somewhere around 1 glass of salt per 1 m2 of the garden. The salt solution is also very good at fighting a very unpleasant onion pest - the onion fly, which loves to infect onions.

4. I feed onions with ashes. How I do this, I have already written above in the "Feeding" section. Ash is not only a source of minerals for onions, but also an excellent prevention against diseases and pests. The leaf becomes too tough for pests, and the plant is healthy.

5. Sometimes I water the onions directly over the greens with an infusion of potato tops, tomatoes, onion husks and garlic. Such infusions do not destroy pests, but they are a good prevention, because they scare them away. Therefore, such infusions can be used already in early spring, when pests appear after wintering and are looking for where they can “settle”.

6. Do not abuse manure! Why? Because you need to be sure of its quality. Otherwise, and oddly enough, but poorly rotted manure can be a source of both diseases and pests! And an onion overfed with manure generally begins to grow poorly, and its leaves droop for no apparent reason. Therefore, if you are not sure about the quality of manure, then it is better to refrain. There can be much more harm, and not only for onions, but in general for the entire garden.

Points 1 to 6 I periodically and selectively do over my bow during the summer and do not observe any pests and diseases on it. I really hope that this will continue.)

I did not talk about all pests and diseases. But in general, with good agricultural practices - do not thicken the plantings, loosen the soil, weed weeds, feed with ash and potash fertilizers, destroy damaged leaves and plants, remove plant debris in time - all this will help prevent the appearance of pests and diseases or at least reduce their spread.

Conclusion

Do you still have onion-batun on the site? I highly recommend getting them as soon as possible. You will not regret!

Grown as a perennial, batun will provide you with delicious juicy vitamin greens in early spring and all summer. And grown as an annual or biennial, the batun will give delicious greens in the fall.

All the benefits and not so much hassle))

Katerina Shlykova,
amateur gardener since 2003

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form Active Link to the corresponding page on the site.

When to divide and replant garden perennials - domfloris. en

Perennial flowers do not require annual planting, grow in one place from two to several years, and do not need special care. If plants grow strongly over time, lose their decorative effect, and flowering weakens every year, we will try to rejuvenate perennials by dividing and subsequent transplanting.

This method makes it possible to expand and increase the collection of garden, ornamental crops.

For each plant there is a certain period of life in one place, after which it must be updated, divided, transplanted.

Juveniles that divide every 2-3 years. These flowers include primrose, hybrid pyrethrum, large-flowered and lanceolate coreopsis, pinnate carnation, horned violet ...

It is preferable to divide and plant primroses every 2-3 years, adding fresh nutrient soil every year - due to the elevation of the bush above the garden. The rhizome of primroses grows obliquely upwards, which is why the old bushes seem to rise above the ground, therefore, the normal rooting of young rhizomes and proper development and flowering does not work.

Garden iris, moth violets, white lilies are perennials that love to constantly change their place of residence. If they are not replanted every 3-4 years, then there is a decrease in the formation of flower buds, and then the plant stops blooming altogether.

Hostas, goldenrods, phloxes, astilba, herbaceous peonies, cultural delphiniums - do not need frequent transplantation, can grow in one place for more than five years, and division is often carried out ahead of time to obtain planting material.

How to determine the time of division and transplantation of perennials?

Wintering perennials are divided and transplanted in early spring, in April - early May, or in the second half of summer, August-September, so that they have time to take root well by winter.

This takes into account the growing season of this crop. With early spring flowering of perennials before the beginning of summer, it is better to transplant in the fall. And vice versa, autumn - flowering is better to divide in the spring. Some types of perennials are best left undisturbed in the spring (for example, irises and peonies).

Bulbs of early flowering are planted from the first decade of September until the second half of October. Among the primroses in autumn, you can safely plant primroses and anemones.

In the autumn, gardeners have more time, subject to warm weather, to take care of perennials: plant, decorate borders, flower beds, garden paths with them.

Getting started, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions and the place of planting crops. We divide the bushes in dry weather, about a month before the frosts begin, the air temperature should not be lower than + 10-12 ° C. Plants should have time to adapt the root system to frost.

The technique of reproduction of perennials, by division, is influenced by the structure of the root system.

Digging up a plant, using a pitchfork or a shovel, determine what kind of root it has.

A branched fibrous system of roots located on the surface of the soil has: peritrum, nivyanik, violets, rudbeckia, mallow. In the flower garden, they are kept together, compact, they are easy to separate and plant in a new place. The more often we transplant, the larger the flowers.

We separate young, healthy plants from the mother bush, from the end of August and continue until mid-October, so that 2-3 weeks remain before constant frost. If the plants are not transplanted, then after 3-5 years, the middle of the bush (with old plants) will begin to dry and lose their decorative effect.

The division of rhizomatous perennials - peonies, irises, phlox ...

Many perennial crops living in our garden have powerful rhizomes - modified underground shoots, nutrients are deposited in them.

During the year, such perennials form many vertical shoots. The stem part becomes so strong (woody) that it is quite difficult to divide the plant. Vigorous growth leads to thickening, and plants cease to develop and bloom properly.

Representatives of rhizomatous perennials: astilbe, herbaceous peony, bearded iris, perennial phlox, daylily, hosta, stonecrop, etc. They require transplanting to a new place in 4-7 years, depending on the type of plant.

Horizontally growing rhizome - underground (perennial aster, mountain cornflower, kupena, meadowsweet, lily of the valley, monarda, mint, nivyanik, donkey, rudbeckia, yarrow, etc.) or ground (garden iris, bergenia, doronicum).

Before digging, we cut off the above-ground part. Carefully using a shovel or a pitchfork, we remove the rhizome from the ground, cut them into several parts, having previously washed off the dirt, so that you can see how best to divide. We remove rotten areas and damaged parts, divide so that 2-3 buds (eye) remain and plant.

In a plant such as lily of the valley, the rhizome, when dug up, breaks up into separate fragments with buds, and in order to separate the peony, force must be applied. Separated, now independent, parts of the rhizome are planted in a new place.

Taprooted perennials.

These plants throughout their lives retain the primary (main) root that appeared in them during seed germination, growing from year to year. Roots tend to turn into nutrient stores.

Such plants tolerate transplantation very poorly or do not tolerate it at all, since when digging, the most important branches in the areas of the root system are inevitably cut off. Sometimes especially valuable and rare varieties are propagated by division.

Taprooted perennials include aquilegia, elecampane, hybrid delphinium, beautiful dicentra, oriental poppy, multi-leaved lupine, etc.

Of all the methods of vegetative propagation, the division and transplantation of perennials is the oldest and simplest method that does not require much time and effort. As a result, in a year from one perennial plant you get several new ones.

See popular related articles…

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Slime Bow

The drooping onion, better known as the slime (Allium nutans), has a pleasant slightly spicy taste. It appears in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, when there is no other greenery in sight. The bushes are squat, with wide, juicy leaves that do not coarsen until autumn. Greens can be completely cut 3-4 times per season. Bushes in the first four years give a lot of shoots, then the growth rate decreases. This means it's time to repot the plant.

Perennial Slug Onion

The wild slug grows in Siberia and the mountainous regions of Central Asia. In recent years, the slime has been grown as a garden crop. The plant is not capricious, unpretentious and does not require much attention. During flowering, the slime is very decorative.

It is valued for its useful properties and high taste qualities. Salads are prepared from it, fillings are made for pies, used as a seasoning in various dishes, as well as salted and dried for the winter. You can read more about this type of onion in the publication Onion drooping - a “meek” slime.

Tiered Bow

Interesting, unusual, worthy of being grown on a personal plot - a multi-tiered onion (Allium proliferum). It has many names: Egyptian, viviparous, horned, Canadian, walking. In the first year it looks like a batun, in the second year it produces a flower arrow, on which small air bulbs 2-3 cm in diameter grow in 2-3 floors. They serve as planting material.

Instead of inflorescences, air bulbs form on a multi-tiered onion

Underground bulbs of red-lilac color, with thick juicy scales, are collected in a nest of 3-5 pieces, like shallots. Both air and underground bulbs have a sharp taste and a pronounced aroma. Due to this property, multi-tiered onions are used in marinades, preservation, as a spice for dishes. It should be noted that the bulbs can only be consumed in summer and autumn: they do not ripen and therefore do not persist in winter, they quickly germinate.

You can find even more interesting and useful information about this wonderful representative of perennial onions in the article A true exotic of the onion family - a multi-tiered onion. And in another publication dedicated to this plant (Multi-tiered bow "Odessa Winter 12"), our reader shares her experience of growing and breeding it.

Onion wild garlic

Ramson (Allium ursinum) or kalba in the wild is found everywhere. The plant is characterized by garlic flavor and aroma. In appearance, wild garlic bears little resemblance to onions; it can easily be mistaken for lilies of the valley. For its unusual taste and useful properties, kalba is in great demand. It is used for making salads, as a seasoning for second courses, marinated, salted. They collect wild wild garlic in huge quantities, which leads to its disappearance: in many regions of Russia, it is listed in the Red Book.

Ramson can easily be mistaken for a lily of the valley

Rather than translate a Red Book plant, it is better to plant it in a personal plot. Onions are undemanding to care, it is not difficult to grow them. On sale you can find seeds of two subspecies of wild garlic: bear onion and victorious onion, it also propagates vegetatively. Agricultural technology is simple - loosening the soil, watering in dry years, thinning out overgrown bushes.

Ramson is a very interesting plant, and there are many publications about it on our website. Here are the most interesting and useful ones:

Ramson: planting and careThe very first vitamin: recipes with wild garlic

oblique bow

oblique bow(Allium obliquum) is also called uskun, mountain garlic. It is widely distributed in natural conditions, but practically does not occur in the household plots of Russians. In appearance, it resembles garlic: the same flat, 2-2.5 cm wide leaves, tapering, like garlic, towards the top, also alternately and to the sides move away from the stem. The onion-like peduncle is a multi-colored spherical inflorescence with yellow fragrant flowers, which attracts bees with its aroma.

Onion uskun looks like garlic

Agrotechnics for growing uskun is the same as for other perennials. Onions are very early ripening, the leaves quickly become hard and inedible. In order for the greens to be juicy and fresh, it is necessary to cut it 2-3 times over the summer. Uskun is an excellent seasoning for meat dishes, and such onions can also be used in preservation instead of garlic.

Fragrant onion

Fragrant onion (Allium ramosum) or jusai comes from China. So far, this representative finds few admirers among gardeners, which is a pity. Its lanceolate leaves remain tender and soft almost all summer. Their taste is pleasant, not spicy at all, with a subtle smell of garlic. It is not recommended to cut the greens completely, it is advisable to cut off the extreme leaves, and leave 3-4 middle ones. The leaves coarsen during the shooting period, and the fragrant onion blooms late, in August.

Jusai blooms very beautifully

I must say that jusai blooms very beautifully: white star-shaped flowers are collected in a hemispherical loose umbrella. Such a bow can be planted on an alpine hill, because in the wild it grows on hills and rocky slopes.

chives

One of the most decorative perennial onions is chives (Allium schoenoprasum). It perfectly adapts to any environmental conditions: it can grow in the harsh climate of the tundra, it feels great in the arid steppes of Central Asia. Tender tubular leaves of chives are a real storehouse of nutrients. Only they must be cut regularly, otherwise they become rigid.

Chives are very decorative.

They grow chives for the sake of early greenery, and more often for the sake of white, purple, pink fluffy inflorescences. They harmonize well with many plants, and this bow can be a wonderful living border for a flower bed. Schnitt is moisture-loving, agricultural technology is reduced to abundant watering. You can read more about this decorative, healthy and tasty plant in the publication Delicate handsome chives and its virtues.

Each of these types of perennial onions is worthy of growing in your garden or vegetable garden.

Perennial onion (genus name in Latin Allium) has excellent decorative, nutritional, medicinal properties.

The genus includes about 500 species. However, about 200 of them are grown in Russia. Mostly in the gardens you can find garlic, shallots, leeks, onions. Such varieties of perennial onions as fragrant, slime, chives, wild garlic, batun, oblique, multi-tiered, etc., unfortunately, do not enjoy such popularity.

Properties

Varieties of perennial onions differ not only in taste, but also in the characteristics of cultivation, appearance, and ripening periods.

They can be planted in flower beds and discounts - some varieties are in no way inferior to ornamental plants in their aesthetic qualities.

Most gardeners appreciate in varieties of perennial onions (a photo of some of them can be seen in the article) their ability to ripen early. Indeed, only young juicy shoots of onions stand out noticeably in the landscape that has not yet turned green in early spring.

This plant is rich in vitamins, essential amino acids. As a rule, perennial onions are planted on greens. After all, the substances that it contains have a positive effect on metabolic processes and immunity, and essential oils improve digestion. In folk medicine, the properties of these plants have long been known to increase hemoglobin, to help remove excess cholesterol from the body.

Many summer residents plant perennial bows for decorative purposes. Plants perfectly complement the flower bed, borders along the paths, alpine hill. Flowers attract pollinators, so nearby crops will not be deprived of the attention of bees.

Characteristic

Perennial bows are frost-resistant - they can withstand temperatures up to -40 degrees. Plants are practically not susceptible to diseases, resistant to pests. In addition, the culture for 3-5 years gives a good harvest even with multiple cuts.

A perennial onion develops a false bulb. Under favorable climatic conditions, it continuously produces leaves. The rest period is quite short, so crops can be grown indoors or on protected ground.

In open space, a plot isolated from the main crop rotation is perfect for perennial onions (the photo below shows where the crop grows). This site will be used for about 5-6 years. It is important to protect it from flooding in spring and autumn.

Onion roots are string-shaped. They lie at a depth of about 20-30 cm. Accordingly, the soil on the site should be highly fertile, slightly acidic or neutral (pH 6-7), have a light composition. Rhizome and rhizomatous weeds will interfere with growth very much, so they must be removed. If horse sorrel or horsetail is present on the site, then liming is necessary before planting onions.

Perennial onion: cultivation and care

Soil preparation is carried out in the same way as for onions. In the autumn, manure, compost or humus is introduced for digging at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m2. Phosphate-potassium fertilizers are also used. In the spring, nitrogen nutrient mixtures are added under the rake.

Perennial onions can be sown, or can be propagated by divisions. Seeds of crops are small (especially schnitt) and are characterized by low germination. It is recommended to plant fresh seeds. If they lie down, germination will drop below 80%. In this case, it is necessary to increase the seeding rate. Before entering the soil, the seeds are disinfected.

Growing perennial onions as a whole is not accompanied by difficulties. Seeds are placed on ridges, ridges or a flat surface. It depends on the type of soil. The first two methods are used on cold ground and in lowlands. Sowing in open ground begins in April-May. In this case, it is necessary to mulch with humus or peat in a ratio of 0.5 kg per 1 m2 of soil. In the spring and summer, delenki and seedlings are planted.

In the second and subsequent years, you need to regularly feed the culture. In early spring, as well as after cutting, 10 g / 1 sq. m. potassium and nitrogen mixtures and 15 g of phosphorus.

During the first year, a plant is formed with 1-3 branches. Next year, flower arrows with spherical inflorescences will begin to appear in the same amount.

By the end of April - beginning of May, batun, chives and multi-tiered onions are the first to appear. A little later, fragrant and slime sprout.

To obtain a crop in the winter, from the fall, you need to select three-, four-year-old planting material and dig it out. Plants are placed in boxes, sprinkled with peat or earth. Before disembarkation, they must be stored at a temperature of 0 to 2 degrees.

Schnitt

There are a lot of varieties of perennial onions. We will focus only on some of them. Start with chives.

This variety is also called a chisel or skoroda. Schnitt is used primarily for decorative purposes. It is grown by many gardeners in most of the country.

The average life cycle of chives is 3-5 years. This plant reproduces well by seeds, self-sowing, tufts of bulbs, forms an overgrown turf.

Bulbs are small in size. They are not used for food. Value in this plant are narrow piped, slightly rough feathers. Their width is about 2-7 mm, and their height is about 40 cm. Onion greens will remain tender and will not coarsen if cut in a timely manner.

Schnitt flowers are spherical. Shades are very diverse - from pink to purple. Flowering does not affect the quality of the life cycle. This period falls on May-August.

Chives are a very hardy plant. It successfully takes root in the northern regions. However, this culture requires abundant watering.

Some gardeners plant it exclusively for greenery, others use the plant to decorate the site. Islands of chives effectively emphasize the borders; they look great on the alpine slides. In the latter case, it is preferable to plant onions from the eastern and southern sides.

Schnitt varieties

They are selected depending on the climatic features of the region:

• Crocus and Bohemia bear fruit beautifully. They do very well in regions with warm winters.
• Vitamin, Medonos, Sonnet are resistant to frost.

Preparing for winter

In preparation, the plant is cut almost to the root. It can be transplanted into a pot and left for 2 months. In winter, the seedling will produce fresh greens.

Schnitt is one of the first to appear after the snow melts. In early spring, the leaves of the plant are very soft, and in early summer they become rough and hard. By the beginning of the flowering period, they become pungent and almost never eaten.

shallot

This species is considered one of the delicacy. Shallots are valued for their delicate aroma and sweetish taste of the leaves. The bulbs of the plant, although rare, are also eaten. The plant is especially popular in France.

Usually shallots are grown for greens. It has a lot in common with onions. At the same time, shallots are more branched, and small oblong bulbs form nests. They are easy enough to separate when digging. On the next planting, they reproduce very well. The ability to quickly update allows you to grow shallots on an industrial scale.

View features

Shallot, unlike a number of other perennial onions, is a demanding plant. It needs a special section. Shallot is not suitable for cultivation for ornamental purposes. Neighborhood with annual onions can lead to the rebirth of shallots and the loss of taste.

The most common varieties in Russia can be considered Siberian yellow, Sprint, Friendly family, Banana, Delicacy.

Most of the shallot varieties are suitable for planting in the middle zone of the country. In addition, he perfectly tolerates the cold; its bulbs remain viable even at very low temperatures. Therefore, it can often be seen in gardens in the Far East and Siberia.

Bulbs for the next planting are dug up, as a rule, at the end of summer. To get juicy greens, it is recommended to sow immediately after the snow has melted. For the ripening of the bulbs, sowing is carried out under the first snow, in the fall.

Perennial onion batun

It is considered one of the most common types. Batun is grown in almost every garden. This species is also called Tatarka or piped.

As a rule, the batun is planted in a separate bed. The plant grows well next to flower crops.

The batun has a very branched bush, with juicy, long, fistulous leaves. Their height reaches 60 cm. You can cut greens from spring until the end of the season.

In terms of taste, batun is in no way inferior to onions, but in terms of the amount of useful substances, it is the undoubted leader. Batun contains ascorbic acid, potassium salts, riboflavin, etc.

The culture reproduces well by seeds obtained after flowering. The plant can be grown in one area for 6 years if properly watered and fed regularly.

The most common varieties are Baikal, Emerald, Trinity, Totem, Molodets, Russian Winter, Maysky, April, etc.

slime

It is also called a drooping bow. Slizun rises immediately after the snow melts. In early April, the greens are already suitable for eating.

Slizun is considered one of the earliest species and the leader in the amount of iron. Onions have a rich, mild flavor that does not change throughout the season.

Slizun grows in a low bush. Its leaves are juicy, pale green in color. After cutting, they quickly recover. It blooms in purple large single balls.

Compared to other perennial onions, slime yields are not very high. The average life cycle is 4 years. Upon completion, the plant is transplanted and well fed.

Reproduction is carried out by seeds.

Among the main varieties, Vitaminnaya Polyana, Leader, Wellness of Health are especially popular.

Slime is often grown for ornamental purposes. It is planted on alpine slides, in flower beds.

Uksun

This species is rarely found in the areas. Uksun is also called mountain garlic. Outwardly, it is close to garlic. It has the same thick stem, from which alternately flat leaves depart. Their thickness reaches three centimeters. However, vinegar blooms like all onions.

This culture is distinguished by its taste properties. It tastes like garlic and onion at the same time. The leaves are ready to eat at the end of May. However, by the end of the summer period, the leaves become stiff. They are used instead of garlic in preservation.

Tiered Bow

This species is the only viviparous. Its bulbs mature above the ground and release new leaves. A multi-tiered bow is also called Egyptian, horned, walking.

During the first year, it resembles a batun. The following years, the development of the bow occurs with the help of arrows.

Greens can be consumed throughout the season. All summer it does not lose its properties. Tiered onions have a spicy, spicy taste.

The bulbs can also be eaten. They are also used for seeding. Bulbs do well in the ground. They form nests like shallots.

Main varieties: Memory, Odessa Winter, Likov, Gribovsky 38.

It is worth saying that a multi-tiered onion is not planted for decorative purposes and next to other varieties.

Cheremsha

This species has become popular due to its early ripening period. In early April, you can eat the first greens. Ramson is also called wild garlic or bear's onion.

After the end of flowering, the active growth of the culture stops. Bulbs of wild garlic are not used in cooking. The leaves of the plant are similar to the leaves of the lily of the valley.

The most popular varieties are Medvezhonok, Bear's ear.

Wild garlic is not grown as a decoration of the site. At the same time, she feels great next to berry and fruit crops. The plant contains phytoncides - substances that repel pests.

Fragrant onion

It is rich in fiber, vitamin C. The leaves of the plant are belt-shaped.

During the first year, 2 shoots are formed with 3-6 leaves on each. Their length is about 30 cm. Flower arrows form in the second year. Flowers of white color are collected on them in a simple umbrella. They smell good.

Stargazer is popular among the varieties. The dark green leaves of this plant grow up to 60 cm rather quickly. The width of the leaves is 1.5 cm. A promising (new) mid-season variety called Spicy has also been introduced. It has more vitamin C and is more resistant to frost.

In addition to the usual turnip, on the plots of domestic gardeners you can often see an unusually useful perennial onion. It is this variety that opens the vitamin spring season, releasing its green leaves, almost the very first in the garden. The features of perennial bows include, first of all, unpretentious care and high yields.

General characteristics

There are several types of perennial bows. Of course, all of them, like any other garden crops, require watering, loosening and fertilizing. However, in general, caring for them is practically no different from caring for ordinary turnips. The plants are related, and there are actually not so many differences between them. Turnip and other annuals are grown mainly for their large and juicy bulbs. Perennials are planted in the garden for the sake of leaves - on greenery. The latter is usually cut off 2-3 times per season.

The only distinguishing feature of perennial onions from ordinary ones is the increased demands on the quality of the soil. Such crops are planted most often on loamy and sandy loamy nutrient soils. The acidity of the soil should be close to neutral. If this indicator is 5.5, lime must already be applied to the ground.

Sometimes perennial onions are planted on sandy soils. However, on such soils, plants produce a lot of flower stalks and do not give a very good yield of leaves.

In the same place, perennial onions usually grow 2-4 years. Then it needs to be planted again, as the quality of greenery begins to deteriorate. The pen not only shrinks, but also loses its characteristic rich taste.

Varieties

Unfortunately, there are very few varieties of perennial onions. But there are just a huge number of its varieties. To date, more than 600 of them are known. But, of course, not all of them are grown in vegetable gardens and orchards. The most common and popular are such types of perennial onions as:

• batun;
• multi-tiered;
• chives;
• fragrant;
• slime.

Bow-batun

This variety has gained popularity in our country recently. The motherland of the batun is China. In this country, it is still found even in the wild. This perennial bow is very popular in Mongolia, Korea, Vietnam. In another way, it is called "winter", "sandy", "fussy".

The best predecessors for this onion are tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage and cucumbers. Batun is usually planted on moist soils (without stagnant water). Before planting, they dig up the earth on a spade bayonet.

This variety can grow in the same place for one, two or three years. In the first two cases, onions are planted in the spring (as early as possible). With a three-year cultivation, the beds are sown from mid-summer to October.

How to grow onions

To speed up germination, the seeds of this crop are usually soaked for 24 hours. During this time, they have time to swell well. Water during soaking is changed 2-3 times. After swelling, the seeds are taken out of the saucer and dried.

Onions are planted in carefully prepared beds in two to six lines. Seeds are buried in the soil by 1-2 centimeters. The distance between rows and individual plants should be about 18-20 cm.

Caring for onion-batun consists in periodic watering and feeding. For the first time, the soil in the garden is fertilized in the spring before planting the seeds. In this case, mineral fertilizer is used. In the future, top dressing is carried out after each cut of the pen. In this case, a mullein diluted with water would be an excellent feeding option. The perennial onion-batun also responds very well to the ash solution. It is not necessary to water the bushes too often. The soil under this plant is usually moistened only during prolonged drought. The crust formed after rain is broken with a rake.

The leaves of this onion can be used as food after they reach a height of 10-15 cm. The plants are cut off at the very base, leaving two or three arrows on the seeds. After a while, the leaves grow back. During the season, you can get 2-3 crops from a batun.

Tiered perennial bow

This variety has one very unusual feature. Tiered onions do not produce seeds. Therefore, it is propagated exclusively vegetatively. Instead of seeds, 2-3 tiers of small air bulbs grow on the inflorescence. They are planted in the soil immediately after harvesting, as they have a very poor keeping quality. In another way, a multi-tiered bow is also called “viviparous”, “horned” and “Egyptian”. Its leaves are hollow, can reach a length of 50 cm.

Unlike batun, bulbs of this variety do not have a dormant period. They begin to form leaves while still on the mother plant. The features of this variety include, among other things, very early maturation. A multi-tiered bow releases its leaves from under the ground even before the batun.

Growing features

Caring for this variety is also very simple. You can grow multi-tiered onions both as an annual and as a perennial. To get greenery next year, air bulbs need to be planted in the summer until mid-August. In spring, plants are fed with a complete mineral fertilizer.

In the third year after cutting the bulbs, the multi-tiered onion must be thinned out, separating the daughter bulbs. The latter can be used as planting material.

Fragrant onion

The birthplace of this variety, like the batun, is Mongolia and China. In a different way, fragrant onions are also called Siberian, as well as "Chinese garlic". In one place, it can grow 4-5 years. For food, like other perennial onions, fragrant leaves are used. The bulbs of this plant have no commercial value. The leaves can reach a length of 25-40 cm.

How to grow

This onion can reproduce both vegetatively and by seeds. In a small area, the first method is usually used. With this method, the harvest can be obtained in the same year. Seeds are used much less often, since plants planted in this way develop much more slowly. During the summer, only 5-6 very small leaves are formed on each bush.

With any method of planting in the garden, organic and mineral fertilizers must first be applied. Seeds of perennial onions of this variety are planted in rows, the distance between which should be approximately 35 centimeters. They are buried in the soil by 2 cm. Seeds can only be taken from two- and three-year-old plants.

Caring for fragrant onions is very simple. The bed should be weeded periodically. After each cut, the soil is shed with a solution of mullein. The bulbs of this culture do not have a dormant period, and they can be transplanted almost at any time.

Slime Bow

This variety is distinguished by flat, long leaves and can grow in one place for 1-2 years. The slime onion is also called "drooping" or "glandular". Its distinctive feature is not too spicy taste and somewhat more delicate leaves than other varieties. In the wild, this onion grows in Mongolia and Transbaikalia. It is also found in the Altai Mountains. This is perhaps the most delicious of all varieties of perennial onions known today. Its varieties, unfortunately, are extremely few. The most famous and popular among domestic gardeners is Green, bred by specialists from the Timiryazev Academy.

cultivation

Like most other varieties, the slime onion prefers moist, neutral soils. It can be planted both in well-lit areas, and in partial shade. It reproduces vegetatively or by seeds. In the first case, the planting of a perennial slug onion is carried out in early spring or at the end of July. The seeding depth is very small - about 1.5 cm. 70 cm is left between rows, 20 cm between plants. Cabbage, lettuce, parsley, dill are considered the best predecessors for this crop.

This onion is fed in the same way as all other perennial varieties: in the spring and after cutting the leaves. The crop is harvested 3-4 times per season.

chives

The main distinguishing feature of this variety are very thin and not too long tubular leaves. In the second year after planting, chives begin to branch and give up to 50-100 shoots. Both the leaves of this plant and its succulent false bulbs are used for food. In our country, Altai or Siberian chives (perennial frost-resistant onions) are most often grown. Varieties Bohemia, Chemal and Medonos are among the most popular.

Growing features

Unlike most varieties of perennial onions, chives are completely undemanding to the composition of the soil. It does not grow very well only where the soil is very heavily clogged with perennial weeds with a well-developed root system. It produces few seeds, and therefore most often it is propagated vegetatively. In this case, the bushes are simply divided into parts, leaving 8-10 bulbs in each. Plants are planted in rows, between which a distance of 30 cm is left.

Seeds are sown in early May or July. To speed up germination, they are first soaked and then slightly dried.

This perennial onion is grown for greens using a very simple technology. All that is needed to get a good harvest is periodic watering and top dressing, as well as loosening and thinning. Fertilize this onion usually once a season - in the middle of summer. A distinctive feature of the species is moisture-loving. Therefore, it should be watered quite often. Otherwise, the leaves will become coarse and lose their pleasant taste. Moisten the soil under this plant 3-5 times during the growing season.

Thin out the chives from the first year of planting. From those bushes from which it is supposed to take seeds, the leaves are not cut. Otherwise, there will be very little planting material.

How to grow perennial onions for greens in winter

All of the varieties described above are great for distillation in the cold season. Feathers of perennial onions contain a lot of vitamins. In this regard, as well as in taste, they surpass even onion. They are planted with turf. That is, they dig up a bush and divide it into several parts, leaving as much land as possible. In the sod of chives, there should be about 30 onions, in other perennials - 3-5. Leaves, in the event that they have not yet withered, are cut off. Sods prepared in this way are stored in a cool place until November-December. At this time, they are transferred to prepared containers. Pots for forcing perennial onions should have a height of at least 15 cm. Light nutrient soil is poured on their bottom with a layer of 10-12 cm. Then the sods themselves are installed and lightly sprinkled on top.

As soon as sprouts appear on the surface, the pot of onions is transferred to the windowsill. It is not necessary to water the plants too often. Perennial onions are fed, the cultivation of which on the windowsill is a simple procedure, several times during the winter with a weak solution of urea (1 g per 1 liter of water). This allows you to get a bountiful harvest.

As you can see, this culture is very unpretentious in care - a perennial onion. Even a completely inexperienced gardener will surely be able to grow it in summer or even in winter. After all, all that is required to obtain a good harvest of this useful plant is to water, fertilize and loosen on time.

The onion family has about 600 varieties. More than 200 grow with us. The number of varieties is increasing due to the cultivation of wild species. The owners of household plots, summer cottages grow perennial onion crops. Batun, chives, slime, shallots, fragrant, oblique, multi-tiered - these are the names of the most popular vegetable varieties. With thin feathers, broad, long, sweet and bitter. They have early greens more tender than onion feathers. It has a high content of vitamins and minerals. Caring for these varieties is easier, since sowing is carried out once every three to five years. It is worth considering the top 5 most popular bows.

A variety of varieties of perennial onions that give greens

Shallot (shrike) is similar to the onion breeding method. Batun is grown for greenery. In one place grows 5-7 years. Chives are similar, but there are features. It is advisable to change the site every 2-3 years. A feature of a multi-tiered bow is the formation of air bulbs in 3-4 tiers. Slizun (drooping) less sharp, useful for anemia.

Perennial onion in the garden

Batun as a kind of perennial

Batun onion is the most common among perennials. It has large, dark green leaves. Outwardly, like onion, but the taste is sharper. Only feathers are eaten, heads are absent. There are several varieties of batun. Differences are manifested in branching, foliage, precocity, frost resistance. In all varieties, feather growth begins as soon as the snow melts.

This species propagates by seeds and division of the bush. Seeds are sown in late autumn, early spring, late summer. Podzimny and spring sowing gives a harvest in late July, August. In summer, several feathers appear in autumn, in spring the leaves quickly give marketable products.

The first greenery, in the form of delicate feathers, can be obtained in early spring. It is necessary to cover the site, with seeds sown in autumn, with plastic wrap immediately after the snow melts.

With vegetative propagation, plants are planted in autumn from mid-September to the second half of October or early spring. The rhizome is divided into parts of 2-3 plants, the roots are cut to 3-4 cm, the leaves are cut to 5-8 cm. When planting, do not cover the growth point with earth.

Onion batun in the garden

Slime with wide flat feathers

Onion slime is a perennial plant that is resistant to frost. It has been growing on one site for more than five years. Feathers are flat and brittle. It differs from others in its delicate, mild taste. Greens do not lose their taste for a long time, they are eaten before the start of shooting.

The root system is located at a depth of up to 20 centimeters. The plant loves moisture, grows well when watering the sown area. Undemanding to the light. Grows in poorly lit areas.

It is characterized by the ability to grow leaves all year round.

Propagated by seeds and vegetatively. Planting, care, replanting are similar to onion-batun. Having sown seeds in July, the crop is harvested in the third week of April. Feathers are ready for use two to three weeks after the ground has thawed.

Onion slime

Tiered

It is one of the most frost-resistant herbaceous plants.. On one site grows up to seven years. They eat green mass, basal and large air bulbs, which are formed in 2-4 tiers instead of inflorescences. Due to the lack of a dormant period, landing is carried out all year round. Greens appear a month after planting in the ground.

The leaves of this onion grow faster than the botun for several days.

Reproduction is carried out by dividing the uterine bulb or air bulbs. To obtain planting material, a uterine site is required. An area of ​​​​two square meters is enough to provide air bulbs in the required quantity. To obtain larger bulbs, a multi-tiered species is grown from sets.

For forcing greenery on the windowsill, air heads are used. After harvesting, they are dried, placed in a cool, dry place. So the bulbs do not dry out before planting. 20 days after planting, leaves up to half a meter tall will grow in the kitchen.

Onion tiered closeup

Schnitt

chives somewhat similar to a batun. Planting method, biological requirements. The external difference is determined by narrower, stronger leaves. Cut feathers do not crumble, remaining in bunches. The presentation is better, during transportation they are almost not damaged.

The plant is very cold hardy. Leaves begin to grow under the snow.

When grown in one area for three years, there is a decrease in yield, the leaves become smaller, a powerful turf is formed. Can be used for growing greenery in winter. In autumn, the rhizomes are dug up, stored in basements for at least a month, planted in pots with fertile soil. Placed in a warm place, watered. Leaves will grow in three weeks. One plant can be harvested three times.

This variety is also grown as an ornamental plant. Planted in flower beds, around paths, to decorate lawns, used as a border plant. A year later, flower-bearing arrows with spherical umbrellas are formed. Their shades range from pink to purple. Flowering plants are like wonderful, colorful carpets.

Blooming chives at their summer cottage, growing along the path

shallot

Shallots are a type of onion. Bulbs are small, ripen two decades earlier than turnips. It doesn't taste as spicy as onion. The greens are tender, upright, there are 3-4 times more feathers than a turnip. Grow more often for green mass. Bulbs are used less often due to the fact that they are small and consist of several cloves. Hence another name - magpie.

For planting, the heads are divided into teeth or planted entirely. Then a bunch of greens will be more. Rarely sow seeds. In the first year, small onions of 3-5 cloves are formed. On the second - large bulbs. Some of them form arrows, inflorescences and give seeds.

Shallots have a long dormant period. Before planting, the heads must be cut off at the shoulders. Warm up for 3 hours in hot water at a temperature of 45 degrees.

Freshly harvested shallots

How to care for onion species of perennials?

Onion crops belong to the same family. To avoid damage by pests and diseases, they cannot be grown in the same area. The main care is reduced to watering, loosening, weeding, fertilizing.

Under good weather conditions, onions are watered four times per season. In dry weather - every fifteen days. After watering, the soil is loosened. The first deep loosening is carried out in the spring. This favorably affects the growth of roots and leaves. Mineral fertilizers are applied along with irrigation. Weed as needed.

The value of perennial onions is due to the ability to grow a green feather, with the help of distillation, during the entire off-season period.

Foreword

Consider the most popular onion varieties for greens and how to plant and care for them. Green onions contain many vitamins and minerals. For example, it contains much more vitamin C than onions. The price of greens is higher than regular onions. In order to save money and to enrich the diet with vitamins, feather onions can be grown at home. For this, there are many varieties of onions.

Popular varieties

To choose onions for planting on greens, look at the cross section, how many buds have formed inside it. If there is only one germ, there will be little greenery. Varieties of onions should be chosen multi-germ, such as Rostov, Arzamas, Black Prince, Amber, Bessonovsky.

The following varieties of green onions have gained particular popularity:

1. Schnitt. Its second name is chisel. It is valued for its leaves. They are fragrant, 50 cm long and narrow, do not get stale for a long time, remaining tender. This bow is unpretentious in care. Its yield is 30 kg per 9 m2.
2. Leek, another name is pearl. The feathers of such an onion resemble garlic. It has broad leaves and a delicate taste. The yield of leek per 9 m2 is 20 kg. The variety is known as fistulous, sandy, Tatar, or winter.
3. Batunny. The greenery is even. The cost of planting is quite low. The feathers of this perennial onion are cut 2-3 times per season, in the annual only 1 time. Harvest from 9 m2 from 20 to 35 kg.
4. Slime. Such onions have wide and flat leaves, they have a delicate structure and a slight aroma of garlic. The variety ripens quickly, resistant to frost, fruitful. In closed ground it grows all year round, in the open it stops growing with the onset of cold weather.
5. Shallot. It surpasses onions in the quality and quantity of their feathers. Unpretentious in care and very productive: 25-45 kg per 9 m2.
6. Tiered. Another name is Egyptian, Canadian. Of all the varieties, the multi-tiered one is more unpretentious and frost-resistant. The quality of the greenery is much higher than that of the batun.

Onion variety for greenery Slizun

Varieties of green onions have many useful properties.

Growing onions for greens in open ground

Different varieties are grown in almost the same way.

The planting material is a multi-germ onion with a diameter of 2.5-4 cm. It is planted in autumn in open ground a few weeks before the onset of cold weather or in early spring immediately after the snow melts. Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in warm water. Then cut off the crown. These measures will speed up the forcing of green onions and increase yields by an average of 65%.

There are two methods for growing green onions:

• Bridge

Onions are laid tightly to each other down with roots and fall asleep 2-3 cm of earth.

Bridge method of planting onions

• Tape

The bulbs are planted 1-4 cm apart, the distance between the grooves is 10-20 cm. Then the bed is leveled.

If you land before winter, manure or humus is laid out on top. In the spring, fertilizers should be removed and a frame covered with a film should be placed over the beds.

When planting, you can also use green onion seeds, they take a little longer to plant, but are cheaper.

In order to have fresh, fragrant greens on your table in the spring, onions should be sown in open ground in mid-July. First you need to loosen the earth and fertilize it. Before placing the seeds in the ground, the bed is leveled and compacted. Sowing onions should be continuous, while maintaining a distance between the beds of 30-40 cm. After the appearance of the first leaf, the crops must be thinned out so that the distance between shoots is at least 3.5 cm. For the winter, when the feathers grow to 20-30 cm, the soil will need to be covered with straw or peat. After the snow melts, you will have a wonderful crop of greenery.

Growing in greenhouses and greenhouses

In greenhouse conditions, onions for greens are grown in October-April, and from February to May - in a greenhouse. They sit only by the bridge method. The bulbs soaked in advance in warm water are tightly laid in the grooves. Can be covered with peat or humus. In a greenhouse, bulbs with cut tops should not be sprinkled with earth.

Growing onions in a greenhouse

You can plant onions in boxes filled with compost or humus. This will increase productivity. Asthenia planted in boxes are sprinkled with earth, and the boxes themselves are placed on top of each other and left in this position for 15-20 days. After the boxes are placed in the greenhouse and monitor the temperature. It should be kept at a mark not higher than 19o. For the entire ripening season, onions should be watered at least 4 times, fertilized between waterings. Chemical fertilizers for green onions should not be used. The feather is harvested at a length of 20-25 cm.

Plant onion (lat. Allium)- a genus of perennial and biennial herbaceous plants belonging to the subfamily Amaryllis onion family and numbering about 400 species growing in the nature of the Northern Hemisphere in the steppes, forests and meadows. In Iran, China and the Mediterranean, onions were known 4,000 years ago, but they came to Russia from the banks of the Danube at the beginning of the 12th century. All in translation from the Celtic means "burning" - apparently, that's why Carl Linnaeus called the onion allium. Or maybe the Latin name comes from the word halare, which means "smell".

Different types of onions are grown in the culture, but most often Allium cepa, or onion, and its many varieties, as well as shallots, batun, sweet onions, leeks and others. The onion vegetable is also interesting as an ornamental plant: landscape designers use such types of onions as inclined, Aflatunsky, Dutch, gigantic, Karatavsky, round-headed, Schubert, Christoph and others to decorate flower beds.

Planting and caring for onions (in a nutshell)

• Landing: sowing seeds in open ground - in the first decade of May, planting sowing in the ground - in the spring, at the same time as sowing seeds, planting oatmeal in the ground - before winter (from October 5 to October 20).
• Bloom: the appearance of a flower arrow is allowed only if seeds are needed.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: dry, rich in organic matter, with a pH of 6.5-8.0. Acidic soils for onions are limed.
• Watering: on average once a week with a consumption of 5-10 liters of water per m².
• Top dressing: when preparing the site, organics are introduced, before sowing or planting - full mineral fertilizer. In the future, feed only if the leaves grow slowly. 2-3 fertilizing with organic fertilizer is allowed. The last - when the bulbs reach the size of a walnut.
• Reproduction: seeds, sevkom (small onions) and oatmeal (small sevok).
• Pests: onion moths, flies and secretive proboscis, sprout flies, bears, scoops (garden, cabbage and winter), tobacco thrips.
• Diseases: white and gray rot, jaundice, peronosporosis, fusarium, smut, rust, tracheomycosis, onion neck rot, viral mosaic.

Read more about growing onions below.

Onion vegetable - description

Plants of the genus have a large spherical oblate bulb covered with purple, white or reddish shells. The leaves are basal, belt-like or linear, fistulate, the stem is swollen, thick, up to 1 m in height. The flowers are inconspicuous, small, located on long pedicels and collected in umbellate inflorescences, reaching 40 cm in diameter in some species and dressed in a sheath that persists until the flowers open. Ovary unilocular or trilocular. Seeds are round or angular.

Onions bear fruit in August or September. In garden culture, onions are most often grown. We will tell you in this article how to plant onions, how to water onions, how to fertilize onions, when to dig onions, how to store onions and what varieties of onions to prefer for open ground.

Planting onions in open ground

When to plant onions in the ground

Onions are planted in the spring, in the first decade of May, in well-heated ground: if the soil temperature is less than 12 ºC, the onions begin to shoot. The principle of growing onions in open ground is as follows: in the first year you sow seeds in spring, and by autumn you will grow small onions called sets, and planting sets in the next year in spring, you will get full-fledged bulbs by autumn. But the fact is that it is difficult to keep sevok until spring, because this requires a special temperature and humidity regime, so sevok is sown in the ground in the year of ripening before winter.

soil for onions

Onion is a photophilous plant, and prefers open, dry and sunny areas rich in organic matter, with a pH in the range of pH 6.4-7.9. If you have acidic soil in your garden, you will have to lime it under the onion. The place is prepared in advance: in autumn, the soil for onions is dug up to a depth of 15-20 cm with peat-manure compost or with rotted manure (fresh onion manure is harmful because it provokes the growth of greenery, which is why the bulbs do not ripen).

Dolomite flour or wood ash, or ground chalk, or limestone is added to acidic soil. In the spring, before sowing, you will only have to add 60 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea and 20 g of potassium chloride to the soil for each m² and rake the fertilizer into the soil.

Then you can plant onions

The best predecessors for onions are potatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, green manure and tomatoes, but after crops such as garlic, carrots, cucumber and onions themselves, you can sow onions on the site only after three years, and even better after five years.

How to plant onions outdoors

Onions can be grown in three ways:

• in a two-year culture, pre-growing sevok;
• in an annual culture from seeds;
• in annual culture with preliminary cultivation of seedlings.

Let's look at all three methods.

Growing onions from seed in one season is possible only in areas with long summers, and sweet and semi-sweet varieties of onions are cultivated in this way. Pre-sowing preparation of seeds involves stratification or laying in wet gauze for a day for swelling. Then the onion seeds are sown in the soil seasoned with mineral fertilizers and spilled with a solution of copper sulphate at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water to a depth of about 1.5 cm according to the 13x1.5 cm scheme, the area is abundantly watered with water through a divider and covered with a film. As soon as shoots appear, the film is removed, the shoots are thinned out, leaving a distance of 2-3 cm between the seedlings, after which the site is mulched with humus. The next thinning is carried out in three weeks, and as a result, the distance between the seedlings should be 6-8 cm.

Semi-sharp and sweet varieties of onions are grown in seedlings. Prepared (stratified or swollen) seeds are sown in boxes 50-60 days before planting seedlings in open ground very densely to a depth of 1 cm, leaving a distance between rows of about 4-5 cm. Onion seedlings are unpretentious, but before transplanting seedlings into open ground leaves and it is better to shorten the roots by a third.

If you live in a climate with a short and cool summer, you are unlikely to be able to grow a full-fledged turnip from seeds in one season, so you will have to grow onions in a two-year culture: in the first year, grow from seeds of seedlings, and in the second - from seedlings - turnip. In this way, it is best to cultivate spicy varieties of onions. The principle of sowing seeds for sowing is the same as for growing turnips. The following spring, in early May, the seedlings are planted to a depth of 4-5 cm in the soil with an interval of 8-10 cm and with a distance between rows of 30 cm, preparing the site as already described. But first sort out, calibrate and warm up the planting material well in the sun for a week, otherwise it will start shooting, and just before planting, hold the seedlings for 10 minutes in a solution of a teaspoon of copper sulphate in 10 liters of water.

By the way, if you are going to feast on a young green onion, planting onions in the ground is thicker - after 5-7 cm, and then you will break through the rows until a distance of 8-10 cm remains between the plants.

Planting onions before winter

In one of our articles, we already wrote about how to plant onions in the fall. Before winter, it is best to sow small sets - oatmeal, since it does not form arrows. If you want to eat green onions from the garden in spring as early as possible, then plant some large sets before winter for this.

In general, planting winter onions has a lot of advantages:

• firstly, it is not necessary to store sevok until spring, since, as a rule, it dries quickly if special conditions are not created for it;
• secondly, when an onion fly appears that damages spring plantings, it is not terrible for the winter onion, which is already quite strong;
• thirdly, you will have an early harvest - already in July;
• fourthly, in the area freed from onions, you can still have time to grow something.

Before winter, cold-resistant varieties are usually sown - Arzamassky, Danilovsky, Strigunovsky, Stuttgarten. As for choosing a site, the requirements for it are the same as for spring sowing, except for one detail: plant onions where snow melts first and water does not stagnate. Planting onions in autumn is carried out from October 5 to October 20, under the very frosts, but still in warm ground.

Before planting, the seed is sorted out, calibrate, warm and plant in grooves 5 cm deep at a distance of 6-7 cm between the bulbs. Between the rows, an interval of 15 cm is maintained. After the first frost - but not earlier, otherwise the onion may rot - the area is covered with spruce branches or straw, which are removed in the spring, when the snow begins to melt.

Onion care

How to grow onions

Growing onions in open ground involves timely regular watering, after which it is imperative to loosen the soil and remove weeds from the site so that it does not suffocate the young shoots of the plant. In addition, the onion needs to be fed, and in cases of infection with diseases or pests, it will need to be treated with fungicides or insecticides.

Watering onions

It would be easier to say that onions need to be watered once a week, spending from 5 to 10 liters per m², but one summer is not like another: in one year it can be dry, and you will have to water the onion almost daily, in another year rain can pour every other day, and the onion will begin to rot from waterlogging. Therefore, just make sure that the onion does not dry out and does not suffer from excess water: with a lack of moisture, the feathers become bluish-white, and with an excess, the greens become pale. In July, watering is reduced, as the period of ripening of the bulbs begins, unless the summer is too dry.

Onion feeding

As we already wrote, in the fall, when preparing the site, organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, and in the spring, before planting, a complex of mineral dressings. Subsequently, if the leaves grow slowly, onions are fertilized with an organic solution (a glass of bird droppings or urea, or mullein per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 3 liters per 1 m². After two weeks, top dressing can be repeated, and when the bulbs reach the size of a walnut, a third top dressing is carried out according to the same recipe.

Onion processing

Very often, beginners ask how to process onions to protect them from diseases. In horticultural practice, the norm is the preventive treatment of onion leaves from fungal diseases when its feathers reach 15 cm in height with a solution of copper sulfate - a teaspoon of the drug per 10 liters of water. To prevent the liquid from draining too quickly from the leaves, you can add a tablespoon of grated laundry soap to the solution.

Onion pests and diseases

To organize proper care, it is important to know what the onion is sick with and what insects can harm it. Of the diseases for onions, cervical, gray and white rot, as well as jaundice, fusarium, downy mildew (peronosporosis), smut, rust, mosaic and tracheomycosis are dangerous.

white rot develops on acidic soils, so try to lime the acidic soil in the area. In addition, the development of the disease contributes to an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Sick specimens must be removed from the garden, and before laying the bulbs for storage, they are powdered with chalk for prevention purposes.

Gray rot causes the fungus, and damp and rainy weather contributes to the spread of the disease. Sick bulbs must be removed, and as a preventive measure, strict adherence to agrotechnical conditions and spring treatment of onions with a solution of copper sulphate give good results.

Onion jaundice- a viral disease that deforms the flowers and forms chlorotic spots on the leaves. It is impossible to cure a viral disease, so it is necessary to immediately remove from the site not only specimens with its symptoms, but also keep the beds with onions and aisles clean, removing weeds as soon as they appear. And, of course, observe crop rotation.

Downy mildew (downy mildew) manifests itself on leaves and stems as light oblong-shaped spots with a gray coating, which gradually turn black. Bulbs affected by peronosporosis begin to germinate early during storage, diseased plants do not form seeds. To destroy the peronosporosis pathogens, the collected bulbs are heated for 10 hours at a temperature of 40 ºC before storage. To avoid disease, make sure that the onion plantings are not too dense.

Fusarium manifested by yellowing of the tips of the feathers, since rot and tissue death develop in the region of the bottom of the bulb. This is a fungal disease that is especially active during the hot seasons. The cause of Fusarium may be the defeat of the plant by the onion fly. As a preventive measure, warming up the seed before planting is used.

Smut symptoms they look like convex translucent dark gray stripes, on which tissues crack over time, releasing spores of the fungus, the tips of the leaves dry. To protect bulbs in storage from disease, warm them before planting at 45 ºC for 18 hours. As a preventive measure, remove weeds in a timely manner and do not sow different varieties of onions in the same area.

Rust manifested by brown-red swellings on the leaves of the onion with the spores of the fungus contained in them. As a preventive measure, you can use the heating of the harvested bulbs at a temperature of 40 ºC for 10 hours before storing. Monitor the density of the beds and promptly remove specimens with symptoms of the disease from them.

Tracheomycosis is a consequence of Fusarium: rot begins from the lower tissues of the bulb, gradually rising higher and spreading to the entire bulb, causing the roots to die and the onion feathers to turn yellow. Remove plants with symptoms of tracheomycosis, follow the rules of agricultural technology and crop rotation.

Onion neck rot manifests itself as a gray dense coating of mold on the outer scales, eventually turning into black spots. The disease appears after harvesting the bulbs, and subsequent symptoms occur after two months. Late varieties are especially susceptible to infection. The disease develops when growing onions in unfavorable conditions, so the main rule should be compliance with agrotechnical conditions, as well as warming up the seed before planting and the collected bulbs before storing at a temperature of 45 ºC.

Mosaic turns onion leaves into flat, corrugated flaps with yellow stripes, onion inflorescences become smaller, there are fewer seeds, the plant lags behind in growth. This is a viral disease, and it can only be dealt with prophylactically.

All fungal diseases are easily treated with fungicides, but before treating onions, think about the fact that bulbs tend to accumulate not only nutrients, but also poisons, so we do not recommend that you use chemicals in the fight against diseases.

Of the insect pests, the most dangerous for the plant are onion secretive proboscis, moth and fly, sprout fly, bear, cabbage, garden and winter scoops and tobacco thrips.

• Against cutworm caterpillars, treatment of plants with a one percent solution of Bitoxibacillin or a half percent solution of Gomelin is effective.
• Treatment with Actellik or Karbofos (0.15%) helps against tobacco thrips.
• The secretive hunter is destroyed by systemic insecticides.
• The larvae of the sprout fly die during deep autumn digging of the site.
• The onion fly is afraid of the smell of carrots - alternate rows of onions with rows of carrots, and the onion fly will fly around your site.
• In the fight against onion moths, it is necessary to remove weeds from the site in a timely manner during the season, and at the end of the season - all plant residues, follow the rules of agricultural technology and crop rotation.
• The common bear is lured with traps: they dig holes half a meter deep in several places, put horse manure in them and cover them with boards. When the bears climb into them to warm themselves, they are destroyed.

Onion harvesting begins in dry weather, when new leaves cease to form, feathers fall, and the bulbs take on the shape and color and volume characteristic of the variety. This usually happens from mid-August to the first decade of September. Try not to miss the picking time, because the onion may resume growth and become unsuitable for storage. The bulbs are dug up, stacked on a bed to dry, then they are cleaned from the earth dried up in the air.

Before laying the onion for storage, it is dried in the sun or in a well-ventilated dry room. Experienced gardeners dry onions in the oven: first at a temperature of 25-35 ºC, then for about 10 hours at a temperature of 42-45 ºС. After that, the bulbs are examined and felt, revealing signs of decay and disease. Bulbs that are damaged or left without husks are not suitable for storage. After drying, the leaves are cut off with scissors, leaving a neck 4-6 cm long.

It is best to store an ordinary yellow onion: it has a dense shell, it is not as whimsical as others. Onions grown from sets keep better than those from seeds, as do bitter varieties that lie longer than sweet and semi-sweet ones, which are more susceptible to disease due to too thin husks.

A dry cellar with a temperature of about 0 ºC or a little higher is most suitable for storing onions, but potatoes, beets, carrots and other vegetables that require high humidity should not be stored nearby. They put the bulbs in boxes, cloth bags, nets, baskets or dimensionless stockings - the bulbs must have access to dry air, therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of rot, it is not necessary to put the onion in a container in a thick layer. Onions stored in a dry cellar or basement are sorted out from time to time, revealing rotten or sprouted bulbs. In order to increase the shelf life, the roots of the bulbs are cauterized. You can store onions in an apartment at a temperature of 18-20 ºC away from hot radiators, making them braids, but then you do not need to cut dry onion leaves before storage.

Types and varieties of onions

Bulb onions

The most common type of onion is the onion. Its history goes back more than 6,000 years - it is mentioned in ancient Egyptian papyri. This is a perennial plant up to 1 meter high with a spherical-flattened fleshy bulb up to 15 cm in diameter with yellow, white or purple outer scales, tubular bluish-green leaves, greenish-white flowers on long pedicels, collected in a dense spherical umbellate inflorescence. The arrow of the onion is hollow, swollen, up to one and a half meters high, the fruits are spherical.

Varieties of onions according to taste are divided into:

• sharp and bitter, containing from 9 to 12% sugar;
• semi-sweet varieties with a sugar content of 8-9%;
• sweet varieties, in which sugar is from 4 to 8%.

Sweet varieties, oddly enough, contain less sugar than bitter ones, but they also have less essential oils, so they seem sweeter than bitter ones. Bitter, semi-bitter and spicy varieties are used for cooking first and second courses, and salads and desserts are prepared from sweet varieties.

We offer you an acquaintance with the best varieties of onions:

• Alice Craig– perfectly stored tasty bulbs for any dishes with white upper scales:
• Feng Globe- large bulbs of soft taste with yellowish scales, suitable for any dishes and long-term storage;
• Sturon- medium-sized juicy bulbs with yellow scales, intended for hot dishes and long-term storage;
• Stuttgarter- sweet, large bright yellow bulbs of long-term storage, used for cooking first and second courses;
• Long Red Florence- red, sweet-tasting and soft bulbs, similar to shallots. Used for making sauces and fresh. Unfortunately, this bow is stored poorly;
• Red Baron- large red, pungent bulbs, suitable for long-term storage.

Of the salad varieties of onions, the most famous red onions are Furio and Redmate; Guardsman with long white stems; a high-yielding greenhouse variety, White Lisbon; and a perennial, spring onion-like, highly branching Prince of Wales variety whose leaves can be used as chives.

Leek

Or pearl bow from the Mediterranean, has been known since the time of the ancient states - Greece, Rome and Egypt. This is a biennial plant with lanceolate, waxy leaves that fold along the midrib - they are similar to garlic, but much larger in size. Leek is extremely picky about the care and moisture of the soil.

Shallot

Grown in Central Asia and the Middle East, it is characterized by precocity, the color of the bulbs of this species is the same as that of onions - yellow, white and purple. In addition, shallots are multi-seed and high keeping quality. Shallots are prized by French chefs because their onion flavor is not so pronounced, and it is great for making delicious sauces. The best varieties:

• Picasso- a variety with pink pulp with excellent taste;
• Yellow Moon- an early variety of shallots, which is resistant to bolting and perfectly stored;
• Golden Gourmet- a well-kept variety of excellent taste with large bulbs.

chives

Or chives, onions are grown throughout Europe: while they are young, they are used fresh for salads, and the stuffing for pies is prepared from mature stems. The leaves of chives are spicy, similar to batun feathers, but smaller in size. Chives are hardy and resistant to diseases and pests.

Fragrant onion

Grown in China for Asian cuisine, especially those paired with soy sauce and fish sauce. It has flat leaves with a pungent garlic flavor. This species blooms in the second or third year with beautiful honey-bearing inflorescences 5-7 cm in size with a pleasant aroma, because of which the species got its name.

Tiered Bow

It also grows in China and is used to make side dishes, salads and condiments. Tasty pickled onions of this species, used with fatty meats. A multi-tiered onion is considered the type most rich in vitamins and phytoncides.

Bow-batun

It exists in three guises - Chinese, Japanese and Korean. It is used in Asian dishes cooked in a wok, in salads with seafood or fish, in marinades. Korean and Japanese batun have a more delicate taste.

aging bow

It grows naturally in Southeast Asia and is an ingredient in Korean national cuisine, and is used fresh in soups, salads, and kimchi.

Slime Bow

Or drooping bow - perennial, common in Siberia and the European part of Russia. He got his name for the viscous juice, similar to mucus. This species is frost-resistant, resistant to diseases, has high taste qualities. The leaves are linear, flat, juicy, their taste is slightly sharp. This species does not form bulbs. They use slime onions as a dietary product fresh and canned.

In addition to the species described in the article, there are also known bows of Regel, Suvorov, stalked, giant or gigantic, blue, bear, oblique, Aflatun, Christoph or Star of Persia, bowed or wild, yellow, Karatav, round-headed or Drumsticks, Maclean, Mole or golden, Sicilian or Honey garlic and others.

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This species began to be cultivated in ancient times, it became the first of all onion plants known to mankind. For the first time they learned to grow it in the Far East, and from there the vegetable slowly spread throughout the world. This is an unpretentious and very useful greenery, and in addition, a spectacular decorative decoration of the garden. Today we will talk about what a bow-batun is. Landing before winter is most preferable for Russian latitudes.

General characteristics of the plant

This is a perennial plant of the lily family. It can grow in one place for 7 years or even more, which is very convenient. This can explain how popular the bow-batun is. Planting before winter is another plus, because at this time there is not much work on the garden plot.

This plant forms not a real, but a false bulb. From its bottom to the very end, more and more new shoots and leaves are formed. Its leaves are tubular, hollow, covered with a wax coating. They have high taste qualities, and are also very useful. In our country, the Russian subspecies of this plant is mainly cultivated, it has dark green, sharp leaves that coarsen very quickly, so if you are late with harvesting, then just cut them off at the root, a new crop will grow soon.

spring planting

If any of the plants is frost-resistant, it is the onion. Landing before winter does not threaten him, even in the case of a little snow and a very cold season. However, if you have not managed to get a few plant bushes that you can divide and plant, but have purchased seeds, then wait until spring.

The best time for this is May or the first week of June. As usual, make a bed, thoroughly clean of weeds and insect larvae, level the surface with a rake and apply fertilizer. Watering should not be done so that the resulting hard crust does not interfere with planting. Soak the seeds in warm water, slightly tinted with potassium permanganate.

If you are worried about that, you can plant them more often, and then thin out, but optimally 1 g per 1 m 2. The sowing depth is relatively small, 1-3 cm. The first shoots are expected in about 10 days. You should not collect greens this summer, otherwise the plant will not winter well.

Correct landing pattern

In the case of planting seeds, this does not matter, since in this way we get seedlings, which are dug up in the fall and transferred to the main place of residence. But then you already need to do planning, since this is a perennial, and it does not need to be moved from its place for many more years. To do this, draw a garden bed so that for each bush there is a square of about 25 * 25 cm.

In early September, dig up young plants that you have grown from seeds or bought from a store and transfer them to the prepared bed.

Choice of soil and location

Another important event that must be carried out before being produced in September, when the entire crop is harvested, and the garden plot is in order. It will grow in almost any area, unpretentious to the composition of the soil and lighting. The lighter the soil (sandy), the more attention should be paid to watering. Not suitable for growing acidic and heavy, clayey areas, as well as deep shade.

The optimal location is a sunny ridge on which tomatoes or cucumbers used to grow. So you improve the soil, and then you can return the old garden culture to it again.

Summer care

Today, almost everyone has a batun onion in their garden. Growing and care does not take much time, and there are always juicy feathers in the garden that can be added to salad, crumbled into soup or borscht. Like any other garden plant, it needs to be fertilized, watered, weeded and loosened. And the younger the plant, the more attention it requires. The formed bush, which is 2-3 years old, will no longer be able to clog weeds, even if you forget about weeding for the whole summer, the main thing is to water it on time, because the grass very eagerly absorbs moisture and nutrients from the soil.

Another point that gardeners who planted and cared for include mandatory feeding if you want to see powerful bushes with large, crispy and juicy feathers. Summer seedlings can be fed with a solution of mullein or a complex of mineral fertilizers. In this case, 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of sodium chloride and 30 g of superphosphate are added to a bucket of water. This is a universal solution that is suitable for any onion, regardless of the year of life on your site.

In the fall, too, can not do without fertilization. This is necessary so that the plant quickly starts growing as soon as the sun warms the earth. A very good option is forest humus or leaves rotted in a compost heap. It is better to leave more active substances and trace elements until spring so that they do not cause rapid growth when the plant needs to prepare for winter.

Watering

The plant requires regular watering throughout the growing season. From the very first day, when the first sprouts appeared on the surface of the earth, and until September, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the soil. Without watering, the leaves quickly coarsen, become bitter and unsuitable for food. It remains only to cut them off and wait until new ones grow. If you moisten the soil daily, you can significantly increase the shelf life of onion feathers soft and green. Planting onions in autumn is carried out in a pre-moistened (on the eve of planting) bed, after which there is no need for watering, since the active vegetation phase is over. It's much cooler outside, and it's raining more often.

There is one more point that should be mentioned. In the second or third year, the batun begins to produce fluffy inflorescence heads in which the seeds ripen. They should not be cut, as they are excellent honey plants. At the end of ripening, the seeds can be harvested, they remain viable for 2-3 years. If you plan to freshen up your planting of batun in the coming years, then they may come in handy. We remind you that you can sit down. Each dug bush is disassembled into dozens of small plants, any of which will have a root and several leaves.

Autumn, preparation for winter

Summer is coming to an end, and we need to take care of our garden bed so that next year it will again please with juicy greenery. Carefully inspect the landings. If the bushes are too crowded, it may be necessary to remove some of them. The most lush can be dug up and divided if you are planning to expand the beds. If you are interested, then the answer is unequivocal - in September. During the warm autumn period, he will have time to take root and prepare for winter.

This onion does not have the “turnip” that we are used to, so there is no autumn harvest, all it can give you is summer greens. To prevent the plants from undergoing various diseases, remove all damaged, dried or rotten leaves from them. The rest will dry up before the end of autumn, and with the onset of spring, the false bulb will begin a new phase of leaf growth.

The second half of October - the beginning of November - the time of preparation for winter. Despite the fact that the batun is a fairly frost-resistant crop, it is necessary to protect it from sudden temperature changes (thaws and cold snaps), as well as attacks by rodents, which become a real disaster for garden plots in snowy winters.

To do this, a bed with onions is mulched with forest humus, covered with sawdust, spruce paws and pressed against boards. If you want to surprise your friends, then in early spring remove all covering materials, carefully sweep away the sawdust and cover the bed with a film. By the time the snow melts for the rest, you will have green onions flaunting. A photo of the garden taken at this time will be the most spectacular for the entire summer period.

Pests and diseases

Like all plants, onions have their enemies. In order to protect yourself from rodent attacks, it is best to cover the bushes with old pots or buckets. Another way to deal with these pests are ultrasonic devices that repel mice. The world of insect pests, as well as fungal diseases, is much more diverse. There are more than 50 of them, but the most common are bottom rot, downy mildew, and smut. Of insect lovers of acute culture, it is necessary to single out the onion secretive proboscis and thrips.

To protect plantings from such a scourge, you need to treat them with special chemicals. In the spring, these are preventive measures using a special preparation for phytophthora. But the most important rule is to change the place where the culture grows at least after 7 years.

How to keep greens for a long time

As you know, the onion-batun cannot be saved for the winter, it is a tender child of a sunny summer. But still, there are two ways that you can use to enjoy the greenery in winter. The first is the harvesting of green feathers for the future. It can be salting: chopped leaves are put in a jar and sprinkled with salt. The jar is stored in the refrigerator. In addition, greens can be frozen or pickled.

Another option is to transplant a few bushes into a pot in the fall and put them on the window. All winter they will give you fresh greens absolutely free of charge and at the same time decorate the interior of the room.

nutritional value

Onion is not in vain considered a remedy for all diseases. Its unique composition includes many macro- and microelements. These are calcium, sodium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, manganese, selenium. In addition, it contains an impressive set of vitamins. These are C, E, K, PP, almost the entire group B. And this is with mild taste and the ability to decorate the table, which the onion gives us. You already know how to grow it, and now you can delight yourself and your loved ones with green feathers all year round.