Repair Design Furniture

Homemade plywood motor boats. How to make a boat with your own hands: wood and plywood are a fisherman's best friend. Selection of tools and materials

You can find anything in fishing and hunting shops, and boats are no exception.

But many people want to make a swimming device on their own, because it is interesting and inexpensive.

Do-it-yourself boats have a number of advantages over factory options:

  • Ease of construction. Such a plywood fixture will be much lighter than wooden or metal structures;
  • Stability on water. For such a boat, solid sheets of plywood are used, and its shapes are ideal for launching;
  • Low cost. You will only need to spend money on pieces of plywood, glue, varnish and boards;

To ensure the safety of the structure, only high-quality materials should be used. The plywood must be solid and free from damage. The price of the first grades is slightly higher, but reliability is also important.

For people who have a skill in carpentry, the job will not be difficult. It will take a week and a half, if you do the boat in your free time, then a couple of full days.

But only a professional can do the design with his own hands, because you need to accurately calculate the carrying capacity, roominess, nose shape and other nuances.

Assembling the structure

When there are materials and drawings, then you need to start work. The first step will be cutting out the plywood parts. The best way to do this is to use a jigsaw. It is important to accurately cut to size, otherwise the structure will not converge.

Then the frames are glued to the tailgate, these parts will be very heavy. If a motor is needed for a watercraft, then the tailgate is strengthened.

The next step is to attach the transom to the sides and bottom. The covering parts must be fixed with glue.

After assembling the structure, you need to prepare aerosil and epoxy resin. These substances are mixed 1 to 1. The resulting substance is used to seal the seams. Also for this purpose, inside the boat, the seams are sealed with strips of fiberglass.

Important: during such work, very toxic substances are used, therefore, you need to work on the street, or in a ventilated room, and using special protective equipment.

When the glue dries, you need to put the frames. Then you need to install the seats, luggage compartments and other elements. After the vessel is dry, it is necessary to proceed to the final stage, this is grinding and sealing with fiberglass and epoxy mortar.

This is followed by the process of painting the structure, this will help to additionally protect the vessel from the influence of water and give a good appearance.

Painting consists of:

  • Degreasing of all parts of the vessel;
  • Processing of wooden elements by impregnation;
  • Surface fillings. This will mask all defects;
  • Primers. To do this, you can use boiled linseed oil;
  • Application of paints and varnishes. To do this, you can buy any paint, but special waterproof materials for plywood will help to increase the life of the boat;

Prices

Building such a craft with your own hands is an interesting and creative activity for people who like to do things on their own. The main thing is to adhere to the dimensions indicated by the drawings.

Perhaps during this process, there will be errors that need to be redone. But the result is a great and inexpensive boat. It is best to store such a product on land. This boat is perfect for use on calm lakes and rivers.

It is forbidden to go out to sea or raft along mountain rivers on it. You also need to carefully monitor the seams and the integrity of the structure, if there are problem areas, then they need to be sealed.

With a thrifty attitude and proper storage, such a craft will last a long time, and will help you have a great time on a fishing trip, or just while walking in a pond.

DIY plywood boat, drawings and stages of its construction.

Let's look at the drawing of the presented model in section:

Breshtuk - wooden beam 114x60 (mm)
frame - plywood 16 (mm)
sternpost - plywood 16 (mm)
keelson - wooden beam 30x80 (mm)
bottom - plywood 6 (mm) thick
board - plywood with a thickness of 6 (mm)
handle - chrome-plated tube with a diameter of 16 ... 20 (mm)
floor - planed board 20x100 (mm)
deck - plywood thickness 6 (mm)

A little about the material used:

Structural plywood
two types of sizes: 6x1500x3000 (mm); 16x1525x1525 (mm)
longitudinal arrangement of fibers
quality grade "E"
ground on one side "Ш1" (6х1500х3000)
unpolished "NSh" (16x1525x1525)
classification to the effects of moisture "FB" or "BS"

Overall dimensions of a plywood boat

Let's start with the manufacture of: breshtuka; five frames; sternpost; Kilson

Install it on a staple and fix the breshtuka; five frames; sternpost

Insert the keelson into the grooves, having previously lubricated the touching plane with glue, and let the structure dry.

Take cardboard and bend it along the plane of the sides and draw the outline of the side.

Take cardboard and bend it along the plane of the bottom and draw the outline of the bottom.

After making sure of the accuracy of the measurements of the contours, we transfer them to plywood and carefully cut them out. We should have four parts - two left and two right, with the right parts being a mirror image of the left ones.

We start fastening from the bottom.

Using brass or galvanized screws and epoxy glue, we will fix the parts cut from plywood to the frame of the structure. After the glue has hardened, level the contour with a grinder.

We fasten the sides in the same way.

We fasten the joints of plywood parts as follows:
1. Let's drill along the joints, at the same distance, through holes with a diameter of 3 (mm).
2. Insert the nylon cord into the holes.
3. We pull the parts together.

After the glue has hardened, level the contour and joint surfaces with a grinder.

Above, by analogy, we will fix the deck. Align the joint surfaces.

We will glue all the joints with two layers of fiberglass and let it dry.

It will not hurt if you process the entire body with fiberglass.

Finally, we will process the body and paint it in an interesting color.
For the rigidity of the structure, from the bottom of the seat, we will strengthen the wooden blocks on both sides.
Lay the boards on the floor. Install metal handles on top of the deck.
DIY plywood boat made:

Before proceeding with the construction of a wooden boat, it is necessary to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, longest, wide enough boards, which are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards that have knots on its sides - this is very important. Boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choosing boards for work

Before starting production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After that, it is necessary to stitch them and check that the boards connected to each other do not have gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.


The next step is the preparation of the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The timber is also planed and covered with an antiseptic layer.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to search and start all over again.

Assembling the boat

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to cut off the protrusions from above and below immediately so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, since it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. It is necessary to decide on the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a board for the spacer with dimensions the same as the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.

When the brace is properly installed, you can start shaping the boat, call for help from several people or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that when the back wall and sides are connected, there are no gaps and crevices.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed over the struts. The number, as well as the location of these elements, you can determine yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

We align everything on the bottom in one plane and process the entire surface with a protective layer. When the glue is dry, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom is a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find a sheet that fits the boat's dimensions.


How to make the bottom of the boat with your own hands

Place the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a few centimeters of stock just in case, you can always cut the excess.

The next step is to cover the joint of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length of one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, the cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is hermetically sealed and does not let water inside.

When this process is complete, we move on to connecting the bottom to the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and work towards the edges of the boat. Do the job as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

Cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the bow of the boat from external factors using the same metal. Cut a rectangle out of the tin to fit your boat.

Wherever wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with a sealant and a cord. By this time, before you start to "wrap" the nose with metal, it is necessary to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.


Be sure to make a bow attachment for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, since on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think over and review all the ideas from what you can make a boat. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Do not forget to cover the bottom with a special paint on the back side, as galvanized metal, in contact with water, collapses over time. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and as a result the boat must be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, a wooden deck can be laid out on the bottom of the boat. So the bottom will not rattle when you move on it.

On this the boat will be ready. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with descriptions to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future constructions.

DIY boat photo

All photos from the article

The boat is an indispensable element of fishing or summer holidays on the river. Of course, a good boat, even if it is a small boat, is quite expensive. However, you can make it yourself from plywood, and this task is not as difficult as many might think.

In this article, we will look at how to build a plywood boat yourself, which can diversify your vacation.

General information

To build a plywood boat, you only need a simple set of tools that every home craftsman has, as well as the right material, patience and a desire to get a quality result.

It should be noted that in addition to the ease of manufacture, the plywood boat has many other advantages, such as:

  • light weight, which is very important, because before lowering the boat into the water, you have to go some distance. In a lightweight version, this product weighs 10-15 kg, so that it can be easily carried by two adults. True, if the boat is made using frame technology, the weight increases, however, it is still not critical for transferring over short distances;
  • depending on the type of project, the capacity of the floating facility is up to 5 people, which is quite enough for a small family;
  • subject to manufacturing technology, the structure is strong and durable;
  • for the manufacture of a floating craft you will not need large financial costs, since the price of all materials is quite affordable.

Therefore, if you have free time and a desire to build a boat, there is no reason to give up this idea.

Tools and materials

The main characteristics of the future boat, such as strength and durability, depend on the plywood from which it is made. Therefore, its choice must be approached very responsibly.

Ordinary plywood of the FK brand, which is used for the manufacture of furniture, is not suitable for these purposes. Therefore, it is best to use sheets of the following brands:

Brand Peculiarities
BS The veneer layers of this plywood are impregnated with bakelite glue. As a result, the material is resistant not only to water, but also to various aggressive environments, temperature extremes and other negative influences. The disadvantages include the high cost, moreover, it is very difficult to find this brand on sale.
BC Bakelite varnish is used as an impregnation for veneer. Due to this, this material is also resistant to moisture and other negative influences, while its cost is slightly lower than the BK brand.
FSF Performed on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resins. This brand is the cheapest and most affordable. Therefore, it is great for building a boat if it is not possible to purchase BS or BC sheets.

In addition to the type of plywood brand, when choosing, you should also pay attention to its quality:

  • there should be no gaps at the ends of the slabs;
  • the surface must be free of knots and other defects.

Note!
Do not use plywood that is too thick, as the sheets must be flexible.
Therefore, the optimum thickness is 5–6 mm.

In addition to plywood, you will also need some other materials:

  • boards and bars - must be dry and of high quality;
  • fiberglass - it is more convenient to purchase in a roll and then cut into pieces of the desired size;
  • yacht varnish or waterproof paint.

As for the tools, the set is quite simple:

  • jigsaw;
  • grinder;
  • plane;
  • hammer;
  • clamps;
  • tape measure and pencil;
  • putty knife.

Boat making

Blueprints

Before starting work, you need to prepare drawings of how to build a boat with your own hands from plywood. I must say that there are a large number of all kinds of projects on the Internet. Some of them are also available on our portal.

However, before choosing the optimal project, you should decide on the basic requirements for the swimming facility, such as:

  • the size and capacity of the boat;
  • product appearance;
  • the complexity of the design - is selected depending on the level of your skill. If you are doing this kind of work for the first time, it is better to take a simpler project.

Having decided on these requirements, you can consider existing boat projects for self-construction from plywood, and choose the most suitable one. If necessary, they can be slightly adjusted according to individual wishes.

Sawing out parts

So, we figured out the choice of the project, now we are building a boat from plywood with our own hands. As an example, consider how the simplest punt is made from one.

Work should start by marking and cutting out parts.

This process is carried out as follows:

  1. first of all, you need to mark the line of the cheekbone and transom (on the diagram A, B, C);
  2. further along the outlined line, a part of the sheet is cut off with a jigsaw;
  3. then the resulting workpiece should be applied to the opposite side and outlined with a pencil. Thus, it will serve as a template and ensure the symmetry of the boat. For convenience, the workpiece can be attached to the main sheet with clamps;
  4. further along the outlined line, the second part of the sheet is cut off;

However, the main dimensions of the vessel do not give a complete picture of the shape of its hull. The exact information about the shape of the body is given by theoretical drawing, which is performed, as a rule, in three projections. In order to obtain these projections, the ship's hull is dissected by three mutually perpendicular planes: diametrical (DP); main (OP), or the plane of the water level (cargo waterline); cross-sectional plane, or simply midship-frame. In accordance with which secant plane the image of the ship is formed on, the projection is called sideways (on the diametrical plane), half-latitude (on the cargo waterline) or the hull (on the mid-frame). The base planes, on the basis of which the theoretical drawing of the vessel is obtained, are shown in Fig. 2.

However, the projections obtained by sectioning the body with only three main planes (Fig. 2) are clearly not enough for a detailed image of the shape of the body, therefore, another five to ten planes are drawn parallel to the main planes, the intersection of which with the body gives a number of projections. So, when the hull intersects with planes parallel to the DP, the contours of the vessel are obtained, called buttocks, parallel to the OP - waterlines, parallel - frames. In this case, each of the projections on two planes has the form of straight lines, and on the third - a real shape. Such theoretical drawings are necessary in cases where the housings are rounded. For, in which both the bottom and sides are formed by the skin, the theoretical drawing is reduced to the image on the projections of the keel, cheekbone, upper edge of the side and the outlines of the frames (Fig. 3).

The methods of constructing a theoretical drawing are common for any ship, including a punt, so every ship should know the principles of its construction.

The choice of basic dimensions, as well as the shape of the hull, is the main and most difficult issue in the design of a ship. The solution of this question requires knowledge of the basics of the theory of the ship (there is such a science) and the widespread use of statistical material. The easiest and surest way to make your job easier is to use ready-made drawings of a suitable boat. You can analyze the characteristics of a number of boats as analogues and try to create your own design on their basis. In any case, it is very useful to build a boat model at a scale of 1:10 or 1: 5. In the process of creating such a model, a self-made shipbuilder will delve into the construction technology, see the future boat not only in the plane of the drawing, but also in space, will receive an additional incentive to build a boat and be confident in the success of the enterprise.

Table 1 shows the characteristics of common rowing boats.

Table 1. Rowing boats
Characteristic
history
Boat type
"Bychok-2" "Birch" Okhtinka "Fofan-F2" "Botnik" "Wave"
Hull lines * O O O O |_| o_o
Length, m 3,58 3,98 3,94 4,6 4 2,8
Width, m 1,48 1,14 1,17 1,22 1,27 1,04
Board height, m 0,50 0,47 0,39 0,47 0,38 0,28
Weight, kg 105 80 87 100 90 17
Capacity, people 3 3 2 3 3 2
Body material Glass-
plastic
Birch veneer on glue Planks Planks Boards and plywood Prore-
blazed fabric
Oars, pairs 1 1 1 2 1 1
Set-
tion (payoli, scoops)
+ + + + + +
* By the contours of the hull, the ships are divided into rounded (symbol O); U-shaped (U); V-shaped (V); flat-bottomed (| _ |); sea ​​sled (W); longitudinally and transversely stepped, or stepped (D); inflatable (o_o).

It can be seen from Table 1 that the boats, despite the large difference in length, are practically the same width, which is caused by the need to install oarlocks for oars at an optimal distance for rowing. The fact is that work with oars, for example. When the oarlocks are located at a closer distance to each other, as on an inflatable boat "Volna", it becomes less effective. The length of the double boat "Okhtinka" is practically equal to the length of the three-seat boats "Bychok-2", "Berezka" and "Botnik". Thus, we can conclude that it is simply not more convenient than a small, light, simple boat with a punt with hull planking made of boards. This is the conclusion I came to several years ago when I was trying to solve a similar problem. Then I came across a description of the motor boat "Dragonfly", which differs from other boats in that its nose was somewhat "cut off", as a result of which it became shorter by about one spacing (the distance between the frames), the cheekbone approached the upper stern of the side at a considerable distance from the diametral plane, a slight deadrise of the bow end of the hull turned into an almost flat bottom in the area of ​​the midship frame. As stated in the description, the motor boat "Dragonfly" is designed for sailing on rivers and small lakes with an outboard motor with a capacity of 10 ... 12 liters. with. I built such a boat entirely from sheets of aluminum alloy D16 with a thickness of 2 mm, and the frames of the Z-shaped profile were also made from these sheets. All connections are riveted. The seams were sealed with thick-grated lead whitewash. The boat is wonderful. Together we are on it with an outboard motor "Whirlwind" with a capacity of 20 liters. with. developed a speed of about 45 ... 50 km / h. The boat walked pretty well under the oars, was maneuverable and had good stability. Its characteristics: length - 3550 mm; width - 1400 mm; the height of the sides - 450 mm; weight - 75 ... 80 kg. In general, it turned out to be a good universal boat for two for sailing under oars or with an outboard motor. The theoretical drawing of the "Dragonfly" boat is shown in Fig. 3, and the values ​​of the plazovyh ordinates - in table 2. Recall that plaza is the place where the theoretical drawing of the ship is drawn in full size, after which templates are made according to the drawn details, according to which the details of the ship are made.

Table 2. Plaza ordinates of the motor boat "Dragonfly"
Frame number Height from Op, mm Half-latitude from DP, mm
Keel Cheekbone Board Cheekbone Board
1 320 340 370 330 350
2 90 200 415 460 560
3 30 110 445 540 660
4 10 60 455 600 690
5 0 35 455 640 695
6 0 25 440 670 670
7 0 25 420 670 610
8 0 25 405 670 560

Please note that table 2 does not show the plazovy ordinates of the deck of the motor boat "Dragonfly", which covered the first three spacings. In the theoretical drawing, the deck is shown. It can be seen that it has an inclination towards the bow of the boat's hull. The fact is that on the move the bow of the motor boat rises somewhat and occupies a horizontal position when the boat is planing.

Knowing the driving qualities of the motor boat "Strekoza", taking into account the simplicity of its design and the manufacturability of construction from sheet material, a rowing boat with a wooden set and plywood hull plating with Lgb equal to 3050 mm was also built in its likeness. At the same time, the theoretical drawing of the "Dragonfly" was slightly changed (Fig. 4). Plaza ordinates are summarized in Table 3.


Table 3. Plaza ordinates of a double rowing boat
Frame number Height from Op, mm Half-latitude from DP, mm
Keel Cheekbone Board Cheekbone Board
1 400 430 450 330 350
2 140 270 450 440 500
3 50 150 450 530 610
4 0 30 450 600 700
5 0 30 450 600 700
6 0 30 450 580 680
7 10 40 450 530 630
8 70 100 450 470 570

As you know, according to the mode of movement, boats are divided into four types: floating, moving in a transient mode, planing and moving on hydrofoils. Since our rowboat was supposed to float, not planing, we raised the bottom aft a little. Otherwise (with a flat bottom of the stern and a wide transom), when the boat was moving behind its stern, a passing water flow would be formed that could provide significant resistance to the movement of the boat. For the same purpose, as well as to improve the maneuverability of the boat, the collapse of the sides at the stern is similar to the collapse on the fourth frame of the "Dragonfly" hull. We shortened the boat by 50 cm, and the depth of the side became the same along the entire length of the boat. The steepness of the bow part of the keel-stem was increased, as well as the deadlift of the bottom in the bow of the boat. In terms of its dimensions, our boat has become similar to an inflatable two-seater boat "Volna".

Here are the characteristics of our boat: length - 3050 mm; width - 1400 mm; board height - 450 mm; weight - 60 ... 70 kg.

Our boat went well under the oars. It turned out to be spacious enough and very convenient for fishing. It was not forbidden to install an outboard motor with a capacity of 5 ... 8 liters on it. with., for example, "Priboy" or "Veterok-8".

For a solo self-builder who prefers to relax on the water without satellites, we recommend shortening the boat by one spacing, that is, by 50 cm.Then the length of the boat will be 2550 mm, and the result will be a good one-seater boat.

For both a double boat and a single boat, a slight decrease in half-latitude is permissible, for example, by 100 mm. As a result, the width of the boats will be 1200 mm, which is comparable to the width of the boats "Berezka", "Okhtinka", "Fofan-F2" and "Botnik" (see table 1).

So, we have decided on the outlines of the boat's hull. Now you can start