Repair Design Furniture

Outbuildings on the site projects with a pitched roof. How to build a frame shed with a shed roof: details of popular construction options. Construction of a stationary change house

A personal plot requires the presence of outbuildings for storing gardening equipment, tools, keeping pets or poultry. A barn with a shed roof is the most popular building among summer residents, since its construction, maintenance and use require minimal costs and time.

The shed roof for the shed was not chosen by chance - this design uses the simplest rafter system - the rafter legs rest on the upper beam of the shed piping, easier - in the Mauerlat. This is a classic of gardening, where rafter beams are attached to the walls of the barn with different heights. Photo of a wooden shed with a shed roof (3x6)

Due to the difference in height between the walls, a slope is formed, which serves as the basis. The slope can also be obtained not by the difference in the height of the walls, but by the following methods:

  1. Make a cantilever wooden frame above the wall of the barn, serving as a support for the ridge beam, on which the upper ends of the rafters will fit.
  2. Make beam trusses in the form of a triangle with a right angle, the long leg of which is attached to the harness, and the rafter serves as the hypotenuse. The slope is made with an angle ≤8 0, so the roofing can be equipped from any building materials - rolled, sheet, piece.

If there is a need to make the slope greater, with a slope of 10-25 0, it is better to take sheets of profiled or smooth metal (corrugated board, metal tiles) to cover the roof.

Construction of a shed roof barn step by step

One of the options for the frame of the barn is a box on skids. This mobile structure can always be moved to the desired or more convenient place on the site.
Photo of a barn on skids

If a mobile structure is not suitable for your farm, then you can build a barn on an unburied reinforced concrete slab or put it on shallow concrete blocks - it depends on the characteristics of the soil.

The construction process itself is step by step as follows:

  • Foundation arrangement: this is a wooden frame with skids made of thick timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm. For the frame, a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm is used. Inside the frame is reinforced with a transverse bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm, which is attached to self-tapping screws or nails every 1 m, the joints are duplicated with steel corners.

Drawing of the wooden frame of the barn
  • Floor arrangement. The floor is made of five-layer plywood, OSB or chipboard 16-20 mm thick. After laying the plywood, it is additionally fastened from above with another timber strapping.
  • The erection of the front and rear walls of the barn frame. All walls are made of plywood 16-20 mm or planed board 20-25 mm thick. In the right places, window and door openings from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm are equipped. In order for the parallels of the ends of the openings to coincide with the slope of the roof, the upper ends of the beams are cut off at an angle of 17.5 0. Reinforcing racks on the walls of the barn are temporarily fixed with crossbars and braces. After checking the verticality of the racks with a level, they can be attached with corners to the frame. The ends of the remaining racks above the openings are connected by the rear board of the upper trim.
  • The construction of the side walls of the barn. The sides have one reinforcing rack in the center of the wall.
  • Rafters with a section of 50 x 80 mm should be covered according to the template, which is made from trimming the board. It is necessary that the angle of the cut of the rafter beam coincides with the angle of the roof and it is not flat.
  • Do-it-yourself installation of rafters is carried out above the beam of walls in order to be attached to it with nails or self-tapping screws.
  • The wind board is mounted after wall cladding, its cross section is 25 x 100 mm.
  • The crate is made of moisture-resistant plywood 12 mm thick.

Arrangement of the roof, floor and walls of the barn
  • The waterproofing layer is equipped with a membrane film, roofing material or polyethylene. The rolled material is laid along long walls from the bottom up with overlapping seams by 10-15 cm. So rainwater or snow does not get inside the barn.
  • To lay the roof, use a professional sheet, plastic or ordinary slate, metal tiles, roofing material, galvanized sheet metal, a board with a thickness of no more than 10-15 mm. You can make a roof of different sizes, the most popular are 3x6, 3x4, 4x6, 4x2.
  • Door and window openings are upholstered with a board with a section of 25 x 100 mm (jamb).
  • The last step is hanging doors and installing windows.

Drawing (diagram) and dimensions of a barn with a roof with one slope

If you need to build a barn with your own hands with small dimensions and weight, then you can not install it on the foundation, but fix it to the ground with reinforcing bars ≈ 500 mm long, hammered into the ground through holes in the frame.

Construction of a stationary barn with a shed roof

A stationary building is a do-it-yourself barn with a shed roof made of brick, cinder block or light grades of cellular concrete (foam blocks, aerated concrete or gas silicate blocks). Even for such a more solid structure, building a powerful foundation is not entirely correct - you can simply lay reinforced concrete blocks on the ground in several rows. The area for laying blocks is pre-leveled, a sand-gravel cushion is made and rammed.


Construction of a brick shed in stages:

  1. On the equipped foundation, the corners of the walls are laid out with a height of 4-5 bricks. Then you can lay the walls on a cement-sand mortar. For the floor, wooden logs with a section of 150 x 150 mm in increments of 1 m are laid on the base. Boards or plywood are laid on the logs.
  2. For doors and windows, dressing is made of a wooden tarred beam, reinforced concrete puffs or a metal channel.
  3. The back wall of the shed must be lower than the front so that the slope angle is at least 8 0.
  4. An upper trim made of timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm (Mauerlat) is attached to the walls. The beam is attached to the walls by putting it on the reinforcement through pre-drilled holes. The reinforcement itself is laid vertically into the wall at the level of the 3rd-4th row from its upper part. Also, the beam can be tied with steel wire embedded in the wall during its construction. It is possible to provide an alcove.
  5. A cantilever frame is assembled on the Mauerlat, the upper part of these racks is sawn off at the right angle.
  6. The rafter system is made in the same way as for a wooden shed, according to a template and with appropriate fasteners.
  7. A wooden crate is laid on the rafter system, which is protected by a waterproofing layer. On top of the waterproofing, metal tiles, corrugated board, etc. are laid. The most popular roof is 3x6.
  8. The walls of the barn can be sheathed with siding, clapboard or plaster.
  9. Construction is completed by hanging doors and installing windows. From the inside, the truss system is closed with plywood or boards.

Mauerlat with grillage

Roof slope with roof trusses

Any construction can be applied extraordinary solutions. For a barn with a shed roof, ready-made truss trusses can be considered such a solution - it is fast, safe, accurate and reliable, since the entire structure is assembled on the ground. Also, the finished design can simply be bought.
Finished roof trusses

If we are building a non-budget barn, then this solution will help not only speed up construction, but also ensure sufficient design accuracy, which means reliability and durability, because it is easier to install ready-made trusses than to make calculations, drawings and mount the roof above the ground.
Roof drawing from prefabricated roof trusses

The main advantage of finished truss trusses is manifested in the minimization of lateral loads from the roof on the walls of the shed: expansion forces have a very negative effect on the strength of the bearing walls of any design. When using trusses, lateral loads are distributed and extinguished inside the truss system, so the frame row of the barn itself does not experience gravity.

Another plus of roof trusses is that they are mounted on walls of the same height, which greatly simplifies the entire construction. At the same time, replacing finished farms with home-made ones is not difficult, since all manufacturing and assembly work is carried out on the ground. The main thing is to observe a right angle in a triangular farm.

The truss beam serves as the hypotenuse of the rafter triangle, but sometimes the truss is laid on a pre-prepared support. The floor beam in the roof is a long leg of a rectangle, and its short side works as a cantilever frame assembled from the ends of the trusses.

For detailed instructions on building a roof, see the video below.

If you increase the angle of inclination more than 8 0, then the cost of building materials will increase - a beam for the rafter system and roofing. If the angle of inclination is reduced, then the cost of waterproofing will increase, since it will be necessary to lay several layers of a moisture-proof coating, as well as additionally protect complex sections of the roof from rain and snow.

In the country, you can not do without a barn, in which you can remove all gardening equipment, a hammock and light furniture. There is also a place for winter supplies in it. At the same time, it is not necessary to build an overall structure: everything you need will fit in a small shed with a shed roof.

Peculiarities

A shed roof shed is simple and quick to erect. It can either be built from improvised materials, or you can purchase everything you need at a hardware store, paying a reasonable price for it. This small building reliably protects home belongings from the vagaries of the weather, and even a non-professional can mount it.

Such a barn has a number of disadvantages when compared with a building with a gable roof. So, a shed roof can be blown away by a strong gust of wind, so build a building behind the house or attach it to your country house for greater reliability.

A shed roof will not allow you to build an attic space, and the building itself often does not look very attractive. Modern finishing materials will help to fix the matter, with the help of which you can fit the building into the overall design of your site.

Project

First of all, find a place for a future building: it should be located either on the edge of a summer cottage, or close to the house, and for it you should choose areas that are least suitable for agricultural work.

It can be either a space remote from the house, or a heavily shaded place. It is important that it is located near the main work front: this will allow you to quickly get and remove the necessary equipment. If possible, place the building on a hill, which will provide additional protection from water and extend its life.

A barn with a shed roof will organically fit into an existing or planned complex of summer cottages. The future utility room should not interfere with the passage of vehicles and your movements around the site. For the construction of a barn, special agreements are not required, but the construction must comply with sanitary and fire safety standards.

According to SNiP, the distance from your building to the house on the neighboring site is at least three meters. If you plan to place any living creatures in the annex, keep the barn at a distance of four meters from the neighbors. The barn should be located a meter from the nearest outbuilding and shrub plants, two from medium-sized and four from tall trees.

When you decide on a place, make a drawing on paper or a 3D project on a computer in order to best imagine the dimensions of the future building, divide it into several functional rooms, and determine the design of the power grid. The optimal size of the structure is considered to be 3x6 parameters - even such a modest area will allow you to place not only an economic block inside the barn, but also to equip an outdoor shower or a summer kitchen.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allows, build a larger shed - 4x6 or 4x2. The spacious design will be a great solution if you want to house animals or poultry in it. If breeding of living creatures is not provided, the building will accommodate both country equipment, and any functional room such as a shower or kitchen, and pickles will freely take up space on the shelves.

materials

During the design phase, determine what materials you will need for construction. After all, the cost of future construction depends on them. A budget option is a wooden or metal frame structure.

In the first case, the frame is made of timber, which requires treatment with special antiseptic agents. In the second - from more durable steel profile pipes that need anti-corrosion treatment after installation.

Regardless of your preferences, you will need boards, siding or corrugated boards for building sheathing. The indisputable advantage of the frame structure is not only the speed of installation and long service life, but also the ability to transform the barn by replacing the sheathing without touching the frame.

The most popular are buildings made from improvised materials such as boards and wooden beams. A frame is constructed from a bar, sheathed with boards. The result is a lightweight, but short-lived structure, the service life of which is five to six years at most. The building should be constantly updated and monitored for its condition.

If you need a reliable, durable and fireproof construction, give preference to fundamental brick buildings. The creation of such a change house will cost a pretty penny, but it will serve more than one generation.

Instead of expensive bricks, construction from more budgetary foam and cinder blocks is also acceptable. Compared to brick structures, they weigh less, have greater strength and heat capacity. Walls made of blocks "breathe" no worse than wooden ones, and they are also safe and non-toxic.

The only drawback of a block shed is an unsightly appearance, which can only be corrected by decorative finishing materials such as brick, siding, plaster, and natural or artificial stone.

After deciding on the material for the walls of the barn, proceed to the choice of roofing building material, which determines the angle of inclination of the roof slope. So, the angle of inclination for a soft roof is 5 degrees, corrugated board - 8, metal tiles and piece roofing material - 25 and slate - 20-35 degrees. The angle of inclination below the specified values ​​\u200b\u200bis not done, otherwise it will lead to roof leaks and damage to the property stored in the building.

For the arrangement of the roof, it is permissible to use monolithic polycarbonate sheets with such properties as high impact resistance, light transmission and resistance to any vagaries of the weather.

A protective coating from ultraviolet radiation will extend the life of this material, and thermal expansion is considered its main drawback. This phenomenon occurs on hot summer days when the sun burns through the roof. To avoid deformation of the material, leave a small gap when tightening each fastener.

Rolled roofing material is considered the cheapest option for roofing. It is easy to install and is designed for roofing of any complexity. But it does not look aesthetically pleasing, and it needs to be laid in several layers. For example, with a roof slope of up to 15 degrees, four layers of roofing material will be needed. If the angle of inclination is up to 45 degrees, the roofing material is laid in three layers. Ultimately, "layering" affects the cost of building materials.

Construction

The necessary calculations have been carried out, the materials have been selected. It's time to proceed directly to construction work, because it is quite possible to build such an extension as a shed barn with your own hands. To understand how best to do this, consider the construction process in stages.

Let's start with the foundation. The columnar foundation is designed for lightweight structures (especially often it is equipped for frame buildings). For its device, it is necessary to mark the ground with a rope and pegs. Holes are dug around the perimeter and in the corners at least 50 centimeters deep. A layer of sand and gravel is poured at the bottom of each hole. Then one of the types of pillars made of brick, concrete, asbestos pipes from 150 mm in diameter, PVC pipes and even railway sleepers are installed. Pillars made of pipes should be poured with concrete, and brick and block supports with a porous surface should be treated with mastic or any other water-repellent agent.

To install a strip foundation around the perimeter of the future building, they dig a trench 25-40 cm wide and 40-60 deep (taking into account the depth of soil freezing in the cold season). Then sand, crushed stone and gravel are poured onto the bottom of the trench, which should be carefully compacted, plank formwork is installed, reinforcement is fixed and concrete is poured. After that, the foundation is left alone for two to three weeks, they wait until it hardens, and then proceed to the next stage of construction work.

In addition to the well-known types of foundation, it is permissible to equip the base from automobile tires. In addition to sheds, gazebos, bathhouses, garages and even summer kitchens can also be built on tires. At the same time, the constructed structures should be light and small-sized, since the construction of large objects on such a foundation can lead to unpredictable consequences.

In general, tires are a budget and affordable material that is easy to install. It does not allow moisture to pass through, protects the building from cracks, and also dampens soil vibrations, which makes it indispensable in any seismically unstable area.

The foundation of tires can be columnar or monolithic.

The first is set as follows:

  • Garbage is removed from the construction site and the fertile layer of soil is removed.
  • If it is planned to install a buried base, wells are dug for tires.
  • Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future building, and then they are checked that they were installed in the same plane by measuring the diagonals.
  • The bars are installed, and then tires are put on them (or they are laid in pits).
  • The outer surfaces of the tires are aligned so that they are on the same level.
  • From the inside, tires are filled with crushed stone, gravel and any other dense material. Similarly, fill the distance between the tires.
  • The next step is to pour concrete mortar inside the tire. Cement should be periodically moistened and covered with polyethylene.
  • After that, it is necessary to cover the tires with roofing material, mount a plank formwork 100-150 millimeters high, install reinforcement inside and pour concrete.

A buried or raised monolithic tire foundation is ideal for areas with high groundwater levels.

Set it up like this:

  • Remove a layer of soil with a depth of 20-30 cm and level the construction site horizontally using a level.
  • One or two layers of tires are laid closely over the area of ​​the marked area. The height and diameter of the tires have a positive effect on the shock-absorbing and waterproofing properties of the material.
  • The inner parts of the tires and the intervals between them are filled with crushed stone and gravel (any dense building material is also suitable), carefully compacted and poured with cement.
  • The roofing material is spread over the entire area of ​​​​the laid tires and reserves are left on all four sides of the future foundation.
  • Formwork with a height of 100-150 millimeters is mounted around the perimeter of the future structure, taking into account its partitions. Metal reinforcement is installed in it and poured with concrete.

After arranging the foundation, they begin to create a lower harness, made of a bar with a section of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150 millimeters. To do this, the ends of the timber should be chopped off using the “half-tree” method and connected with metal staples.

The next stage of work is the assembly of the frame: to make it, install vertical racks and align them with the help of a building level. The installation of the front wall is carried out so that the desired angle of inclination of the roof is obtained. Racks should be strengthened with temporary slopes and at the same time outline the location of future windows and doors, so that later you do not suffer with cutting them out.

Then, floor logs should be mounted on the frame, attaching them at intervals of 60-120 centimeters. The floor is laid with edged or specially grooved boards.

What is the best roof for a barn - gable or single-pitched, what material to choose for blood and how to do roofing work with your own hands - all these questions are best studied at the design stage of an outbuilding. The gable structure is less susceptible to snow loads and more functional - by installing it, you can equip an attic above the ceiling. Sheds are easier to build, but they are built mainly on outbuildings and small buildings.

Country shed with gable roof

Drawing of a barn with a gable roof

The choice of roofing materials for the roof of the barn

Choosing the material for the roof, choose the best value for money. Cheap building materials, such as roofing material and ondulin, last less than three years, and then require repair. Tiles or profiled flooring reliably isolate the room from moisture and noise, look attractive, but are too expensive for a simple country barn.

Wave and flat slate - a budget solution

Slate is a cheap building material, nondescript and fragile. Durable, but an unsuccessfully fallen branch or piece of ice can break through it.

Slate is used as a temporary covering for small buildings. If you are looking for how to cover the roof of a barn inexpensively and for a short time, this is a perfectly acceptable option.

Wave slate sheets for roofing

Flat slate sheets

Advantages:

  • does not overheat in the sun;
  • does not emit toxic fumes;
  • provides sound insulation;
  • damaged sheet is easy to replace.

Disadvantages:

  • heavy - the weight of one panel is from 20 kg;
  • cracks when exposed to heat.

Slate installation rules:

  • join the panels overlay by 30-35 cm;
  • start roofing from the lower tiers, moving up;
  • fasten the sheets with slate nails.

Cement-sand tile (CSH) - the same style with the house

Lightweight analogue of ceramic tiles, consists of quartz sand, water and dyes. However, the mass of cement-sand tiles is large - take this into account when calculating the load on the base and load-bearing walls of the barn.

Advantages:

  • does not collapse for a long time;
  • does not fade in the sun;
  • resistant to temperature changes.

The key disadvantage of shingles is the complexity of laying on the roof sheathing.

Installation nuances:

  • fix the tile tiles on the counter-batten;
  • set the first tile in the lower right corner, and then move up and to the left;
  • leave a gap between the insulation and the tiles for air circulation.

Flexible shingles - flexibility for complex shapes

Choose shingles for your barn roof if you're into complex shapes. Thanks to its flexible structure, it adheres tightly to dome and cone types of frames.

Advantages:

  • does not pass moisture;
  • resistant to sudden changes in temperature.

Disadvantages:

  • the minimum possible slope is 12 °;
  • mounted on a frame with a frequent step of the support beams.

Installation nuances:

  • fix the tiles with nails;
  • fasten the tiles end-to-end, and coat the borders with bituminous mastic;
  • start work from the central part of the ramp.

Decking of different profiles - reliability and durability

Decking is a building material made of galvanized steel subjected to corrugation. It is used for sheathing walls and roofs of buildings, as well as in the construction of fences. There are two types of profiled sheets - with a drainage groove for water drainage and without it.

Colored roof profile

Advantages:

  • easy to install;
  • durable.

Disadvantages:

  • passes external noise;
  • collects condensate.

Installation rules:

  • lay the panels vertically or in groups of three sheets;
  • start assembly from the bottom of the roof;
  • place protective strips on the sidewalls of the outer panels.

Sturdy metal shingles for capital sheds

Outwardly, it resembles a classic brick one - in size and characteristic wavy shape. It is durable, has protective characteristics and is suitable for the construction of roofs with an inclination angle of 14 °. The metal tile is screwed with self-tapping screws with sealing thermal washers.

Roof equipment diagram

The only drawback of metal tiles is the noise in rainy weather.

Installation nuances:

  • lay the sheets overlay one by one;
  • start covering from the lower left corner and from left to right and from top to bottom;
  • screw in the self-tapping screws at a right angle, firmly pressing the tiles to the crate;
  • ground after installation.

Euroroofing material with a bituminous membrane - easy installation

Roofing material for the roof of a barn and other buildings is placed on a plank or plywood crate without gaps. Lay it in 5-8 layers so that the roof does not leak. Buy roofing material of European quality, so as not to cook mastic from bitumen.

Ruberoid with mastic side

Installation nuances:

  • stick the material on the cleaned roof;
  • before installing the roofing material, heat the bottom layer on a gas burner;
  • cover the roof from the bottom up, laying the roofing material with the melted side down;
  • Starting from the second layer, apply the material so that the joints of the sheets do not coincide with the joints of the previous layer.

Matte and glossy ondulin - an inexpensive choice

Ondulin is made from recycled materials and is used exclusively in the construction of roofs. If you do not know how to cover the shed cheaply and quickly, choose this material. It is environmentally friendly, does not absorb moisture, and is resistant to temperature changes.

Scheme of mounting ondulin on the roof of the barn

Disadvantages:

  • discolored in the sun;
  • gradually deformed during operation.

Installation rules:

  • fix ondulin with nails with hats;
  • cut sheets with a hacksaw lubricated with oil;
  • do not cover the roof with ondulin in the heat - the material is deformed;
  • do not step on the panels during installation.

Comparison of prices for roofing materials

After reviewing the properties of each material, compare the prices of well-known manufacturers. Average cost for each type of coverage:

  • Tiling (bitumen) - 480-800 rubles / sq. m.
  • Tiling (cement) - 450-650 rubles / sq. m.
  • Tiling (metal) - 500-600 rubles / sq. m.
  • Profiled sheet (zinc treated) -200-350 rubles / sq. m.
  • Profiled sheet (polymer) - 220-500 rubles / sq. m.
  • Slate - 100-210 rubles / sq. m.
  • Ondulin - 300 rubles / sq. m.
  • Ruberoid - 40-350 rubles / sq. m.

Based on the information received, select the material for the roof of the barn, calculate its quantity and proceed with the construction.

Do-it-yourself shed roof installation

The walls of sheds are often fragile and it is dangerous to place a massive roof on them. The key advantage of a pitched roof is its light weight. The design consists of a system of rafters, overhangs, and gables, as well as insulation and roofing material.

Key stages of roof construction

The truss system provides roof rigidity by holding the batten and roofing material. Overhangs - parts of truss beams protruding beyond the boundaries of the walls. They prevent the walls from getting wet during rainy seasons. The pediments are located on the sides of the slope - these are parts of the walls in the form of right-angled triangles.

Shed roof structures

Stages of construction of a shed roof:

  1. Structural design and slope angle calculation.
  2. Fabrication and installation of truss system.
  3. Lathing installation.
  4. Roof waterproofing.
  5. Roofing and water drainage.

Building and frame design

Before you make a shed roof of a barn with your own hands, draw up a building project and calculate the angle of inclination of the slope. It depends on the roofing material and can be from 5° to 60° in a temperate climate or from 45° to 60° in aggressive environmental conditions. The larger the angle of inclination, the more building materials will be consumed.

Calculation of the angle of the roof

Design the building so that the low wall is located in the wind. When calculating the height of the walls, do not forget to install a Mauerlat - a support beam for inclined rafters. A wall with a Mauerlat will be 15 cm higher than usual, which will significantly affect the angle of inclination.

Installation of the rafter system of beams

Prepare the wood - remove the bark from the boards to prevent bark beetles from breeding under the roof. Use coniferous trees treated with an antiseptic. The principal parts of the rafter system are the Mauerlat, the rafter leg and the crate for roofing material.

There are three types of rafters - layered, hanging and sliding.

  • Naslonnye put on barns with brick walls and internal partitions.
  • Hanging rafter structures are assembled on the ground, and then lifted and supported on the load-bearing walls of the building.
  • Sliding beams are firmly attached to the upper part of the roof, and from below they are attracted with the help of a “slider” - a metal part that ensures free movement of the rafters along the support beam. This method of fastening avoids deformation and destruction of the roof from shrinkage.

Varieties of rafters

Having prepared the rafters from boards 4-5 cm thick, install waterproofing material and two Mauerlats on the opposite load-bearing walls. Secure them with construction studs or anchor bolts. Lay the rafters on the support beams using the cutting method and secure - they should protrude 40-50 cm beyond the frame. The maximum step between the rafter beams is 1 meter. Pin a crate of 2.5x15 cm boards to the rafters - solid for roofing material and ondulin, small lattice for tiles or large for profiled sheet and slate.

Roof waterproofing film or roofing material

Lay waterproofing material over the crate. Use a diffuse film as a waterproofing - in addition to protecting the room from moisture, it:

  • prevents dust from entering the barn;
  • retains heat;
  • removes condensate from evaporation;
  • prevents the formation of condensate in the shed;
  • promotes better air circulation.

Overlap the sheets by 10 cm, and glue the joints. If diffuse film does not suit you, use roofing felt or polyethylene. Prick a counter-crate on top - bars perpendicular to the crate. Roofing will subsequently be attached to them.

Roof and gutter equipment

Attach the selected roofing material to the lathing bars. Slate - with nails at the junction of sheets, ondulin, roofing material and tiles - with self-tapping screws with a rubber seal. When laying the roof, keep in mind that one sheet must rest on at least two batten beams with a margin of 150 mm on each side.

When finished with the roof, install the drain. Hang a cornice at the lower edge of the roof at an angle, along which water will drain to the ground. If desired, attach a drainpipe to the wall.

If the barn is located in a place where the direct flow of water from the roof does not interfere, you can do without a drain - in this case, the length of the overhang should be more than half a meter.

Shed frame with gable roof

Construction of a gable roof

A gable or gable roof is functional, it is installed on a crate of rafters - two slopes are connected in the upper beam - a ridge.

Video: Calculation of rafters

Gable roof truss system

Rafter scheme - ridge run

Frame and framing installation

How to make a roof on a barn with two slopes:

  1. On the walls of the barn, install the Mauerlats on top of the insulating coating and fasten them with anchor bolts.
  2. Cut the rafters from boards measuring 40x90 mm. The length depends on the expected height of the roof. Cut the first plank from above - if necessary at an angle.
  3. At the bottom with a jigsaw, cut a groove for the Mauerlat so that the borders exactly match the angle of the beam. Take measurements as carefully as possible - the first rafter will become a template for subsequent ones.
  4. Light roof rafters on top can be bolted end-to-end or overlap. A heavier design requires a ridge at the junction of the beams. Fasten the rafters to the ridge using the cutting method and fix with fixing plates.
  5. Lift the finished structure and attach it to the Mauerlats on both sides.
  6. Install a tie beam so that the structure does not fall inward.
  7. Treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic.

Gable roof frame for barn

The density of the lathing bars depends on the selected roofing. For corrugated board and slate, the optimal distance between the bars is 1-1.5 m, for polycarbonate - 0.6 m. Under the tile, the crate is made denser, and under the ondulin and roofing felt - solid.

Insulation, ventilation and roofing

Country sheds are not heated, so condensation accumulates under the roof and mold forms. Consider a ventilation system to avoid rotting processes. Install a heater on the crate, and a waterproofing material on top that protects the beams from moisture and dust. Line the roof with roofing material by analogy with a shed. Screw the self-tapping screws with sealing washers strictly vertically in places where the batten beams pass. Equip drains on both sides, fixing the gutters under the roof overhangs.

When installing the frame and lining the roof, follow safety precautions.

Use stable ladders and scaffolding. Wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting wood and coating. Treat the finished barn roof with an anti-mold compound.

Video: How to make a gable roof on a barn


If you are building not a temporary building, but a solid barn, entrust the calculations and construction to professionals in order to eliminate all errors.












A barn is a building without architectural frills. Most often, this is a frame structure with a shed roof, sheathed on the outside with sheet or panel materials such as OSB, plywood or moisture-resistant chipboard. Often, lining, grooved boards, corrugated board or sheet iron are used for sheathing. The most difficult thing in building a barn is to build a frame. It must be understood that this design consists of several elements that are connected into one. At the same time, the frame of the shed with a shed roof is a reliable structure.

Source yandex.ru

Frame elements

Purely structurally, the frame of the hozblok, like any basis for the construction of frame buildings, consists of three main elements:

    bottom harness,

  • support posts between the strappings.

Since we are talking about a building with a roof, a truss system with a crate is added to the barn frame. And although they have nothing to do with the frame structure, they will have to be taken into account when developing a drawing of a utility block with a pitched roof.

What are the top and bottom straps. These are elements assembled around the perimeter of the building in the form of a solid structure. They are assembled from wooden beams with a minimum section of 100x100 mm. The main task of the work foreman is to precisely set the bars in one horizontal plane and securely fasten them together.

The construction of the frame begins with the installation of the lower harness Source kak-sdelat-kryshu.ru

Shed frame racks are either beams or double boards. They are set with a certain step and exactly vertically. At the same time, racks must be installed in the corners of the building, in the places where door and window openings are formed. If the barn consists of several rooms, then the supports are also mounted at the intersection of the external and internal walls. By the way, for this, jumpers are added to the strapping, forming partitions.

The height of the racks is equal to the height of the barn. Standard sizes are 2.5-3 m.

Shed frame construction with a pitched roof

To form a roof, you need to raise the front part of the frame by a small size. That is, to form a slope. The rafter legs on the facade wall will rest against the raised part, with their rear ends on the upper trim.

Therefore, the designers propose two frame designs:

    It is assembled in the form of a cube. Then, on the front part, racks of small length and section are added, which will become supports for the rafter legs.

Source ristroy.ru

    Front racks are cut longer to the height of the slope formation.

Source ydachadacha.ru

The second option is more commonly used.

Construction technology

Any foundation is suitable for a barn, but more often they use a columnar one, assembled from concrete blocks or bricks. It is easier to bookmark and cheaper than all other types.

Preparing for construction

First of all, before the start of construction, it is necessary to plan the architectural part of the structure. That is, what will be the size of the barn. The most common barn project is a 3x6 shed roof. On the front side - 6 m, on the gable side - 3 m.

The thing is that the length of the wooden bars (standard) is 6 m. That is, to assemble the strapping (upper or lower), three bars are required: two whole, one sawn in half. For two harnesses, 6 bars are required.

The upper trim of the barn frame Source yandex.ru

As for the number of racks, in the corners one by one - these are 4 beams, two in the doorway, two in the window (although it is here that you can use lumber of a smaller section, even boards with a thickness of 50 mm). To reinforce the frame structure, intermediate bars with a section of 100x50 mm are installed: in the gable walls and in the front walls every 1.0-1.2 m. Although much depends on the width of the sheathing material. For example, the standard OSB width is 1250 mm. So, this is the step of installing the racks.

Now, as for the length of the racks. It all depends on the height of the building. The length of the facade supports, if the barn is being built according to project No. 2, is increased by the size of the slope of the shed roof.

Frame assembly

You need to start with the bottom strapping.

    On the pillars of the foundation waterproofing is laid in the form of a roofing material folded in half.

    Pre-prepared beam ends cut to half thickness. The length of the undercut is equal to the width of the bars.

    Strapping elements laid on the foundation and aligned horizontally using the building level. If necessary, wooden linings are placed under the beams for lifting.

Connection of strapping elements in half cut Source svoyabesedka.ru

    Produced fastening the elements of the lower trim, for which long nails or self-tapping screws are used, as well as special perforated fasteners in the form of plates and corners made of steel.

    Racks are installed. They are placed vertically at the same level and attached to the lower trim with steel corners on self-tapping screws. At the same time, corner supports are first placed, which are additionally supported by jibs made of boards or slats with a section of 50x50 mm.

Fastening racks and strapping to each other Source zen.yandex.ru

    Necessarily racks are checked for the horizontal location of their upper ends. This refers to the front and rear walls. If one sticks out more than the others, then it is removed, filed and installed in place. As for the racks that form the side walls, they are cut under the slope of the roof. They do it this way: between the two corner posts that form the side walls of the barn, twine or twine is stretched. Then, from the bottom harness to the twine, you need to measure the distance. Measurements are made at the place of installation of the supports. This is the length of the bars. The closer the support is to the back wall, the shorter its length will be.

    Assembling the top harness produced in the same way as the bottom. It's just that instead of a foundation, mounted racks are their support. Mounting is done in exactly the same way. The only difference from the bottom is the location of the two elements not in a horizontal plane, but at an angle. Therefore, more often the upper harness is made of boards with a thickness of 50 mm.

Source djbay.ru

    Often, in order to avoid unnecessary costs, they use as inclined elements of the upper trim of the frame rafter legs. This is clearly seen in the photo above. That is, first install two elements of the upper trim on the front wall and the back. And then rafters are immediately mounted along the edges, which connect the corner supports.

Since the barn is a complete building, it is necessary to form two more structural elements: floors and roof.

Floor frame assembly

The frame of the floor base is boards (50 mm thick), laid with their ends on the strapping across the barn. Installation option - vertical in width. They are attached to the beams with the same steel corners and self-tapping screws. You can use the half-cut fastening method - this is a more durable option.

Installation of the frame for the floor base Source rmnt.mirtesen.ru

Pay attention to the photo, which shows the frame with an intermediate beam laid under the boards. This option is usually used when using a 4x6 barn project with a pitched roof. That is, if the width of the structure is more than 3 m.

Assembling the truss system and battens

Now, as for the roof. There is nothing difficult in its construction. The frame of the barn is assembled, the walls are formed, it remains only to lay the rafter legs with a certain step. Most often, the installation step varies between 0.6-1 m, depending on the selected roofing material. This is the optimal size.

An important component is to accurately select the length of the rafters. This is due to the fact that a shed roof should form overhangs both from the front side of the building and from the back. The size of the overhang is 30-50 cm on each side. With a barn width of 3 m, the length of the rafter legs is 3.6-4 m. With a width of 4 m - 4.6-5 m.

Formation of the roof overhang with rafters Source spb-artstroy.ru

The last stage in the assembly of the roof frame is the installation of the crate. It can be solid for soft materials or sparse for others. More often, slats with a maximum section of 50x50 mm or boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm and a width of 100 mm are used for this. For a continuous coating, OSB sheets are mounted along the rails.

The frame is complete. It remains to sheathe it: the floors inside with boards (edged or tongue-and-groove), the walls outside with slab or sheet materials, the roof with roofing. Doors and windows are being installed. If there is a need to make the barn insulated, then from the inside it is laid with heat-insulating material and sheathed with sheets. The same goes for the floor and roof.

Video description

Highlights on the installation of the barn frame in the video:

On our website you can get acquainted with the turnkey, from the construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Conclusion

Building a barn from corrugated board with a shed roof (or from another material) is not the most difficult process. If the structure is small (3x6 or 4x6), then it can be raised in one day. The main task of the manufacturer of works is the accuracy of the dimensions of the elements and their correct assembly.

The 3×6 barn is one of the more popular formats. I already published one report on the construction of a barn 3 by 6 meters, now I decided to add another one. This time a barn with a shed roof.

For starters, the foundation. Since the site is located on the banks of the Volga-mother (the upper earthen layer, and under it - river sand), I decided to pour a concrete foundation. I dug holes 600x600x600 mm in the amount of eight pieces. Mixed concrete and poured into ready-made pits. I installed reinforcement in the concrete (vertically upwards) in order to then attach the platform for the shed to it.

I made the platform out of bricks - I laid out the brickwork, the next day I measured it in terms of level and added cement mortar where needed to make it even.

After drying, I began to assemble the lower frame of the shed.

For this, a board 50x200x6000 mm was used. The vertical racks of the frame are made of boards 50×100 mm. Here is a photo of the finished barn frame:

As for the roof: 8 rafters were needed for a 6 by 3 barn. I took rafters 50x150x5000 mm. On the rafters, cuts are made, fastening to the frame with nails. It can be fixed with metal corners, but it seemed more convenient. Here is the rafter attachment scheme:

And here is a closer photo of the rafters:

I didn’t do the crate, because the roof is 2500 mm galvanized. It took 2 galvanized sheets with a slight overlap on the roof.

Shed shed from edged boards 25x150 mm. The overlap is about 2.5 cm. Fastened with 90mm galvanized nails. I decided to paint the board right away, before sheathing. It seemed to be easier that way. And when the board dries up, unpainted areas will not be visible.

At the front of the barn, I first tried on the door, then began to sheathe it with a board.

If anyone is interested, I painted with Azure paint, V33 impregnation. Bought in Leroy, it took fifteen liters to the barn. I applied 2 layers. Looks like good paint.

And here are the final photos of the barn 6 by 3 meters:


It took about a week of unhurried work to build the barn. Over the winter, the barn stood normally, no problems were found.

Saray1.ru

Barn with a shed roof 3x6

It is difficult to imagine a country house or cottage without outbuildings. In the sheds, gardening tools, summer swings, hammocks and folding furniture are stored, here you can also house farm animals, poultry, store hay and fodder. As a rule, outbuildings are built from those materials that remained after the construction of the house. The owner can only choose a drawing of the barn, decide on its size and roof structure.

barn construction

The most optimal size for an outbuilding is 3x6 meters. This area is enough even for the construction of a summer shower and toilet inside the building, and you can also arrange a summer kitchen here.

You can make a drawing of a barn from a photo found on the Internet, or come up with your own original barn, and then transfer the idea to paper. It is not recommended to build even the simplest buildings without a drawing. After all, on paper, all sizes and inconsistencies will become visible.

Shed roofs are most often pitched. A flat roof retains too much precipitation, snow masses, and requires careful waterproofing. Roofs of complex shape are also inappropriate for sheds, because this building is designed not to decorate the site, but to serve in household needs.

The best solution for a shed would be a pitched roof. Unlike a gable, it does not require the arrangement of a ridge, it will take half as many rafters. It is easier to assemble a shed roof, and precipitation and snow come off it very quickly, without threatening waterproofing.

Important! The angle of inclination of a pitched roof must be greater than 18 degrees. Such a slope will allow precipitation to freely leave the roof, protect the structure from winds and cold.

The optimal value of the pitched roof angle is 18-25 degrees.

The walls of an outbuilding can be built from absolutely any materials, it can be:

  • brick;
  • foam concrete or aerated concrete;
  • boards;
  • plywood or MDF fixed on a wooden frame (frame type construction).

Barn from foam blocks

If you need to buy materials for building a barn, it is better to opt for foam concrete. Porous blocks have a lot of advantages over other building materials:

  • do not burn;
  • do not absorb moisture;
  • have a low weight;
  • there are several sizes, from which it is easy to choose the best option for a small building;
  • have higher strength and heat capacity than bricks;
  • they can pass air no worse than wooden walls;
  • absolutely safe and non-toxic.

Despite the lightness of foam blocks, it is imperative to build a foundation for a barn. Given the size of the building (3x6) and the weight of the structures, it is better to choose a tape-type foundation. For stable, dry soils, a columnar base is also suitable.

The strip foundation for a small outbuilding is poured to a depth of about 40-60 cm, while it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing on the site in winter.

The land on the site selected for construction is cleared of debris, roots and vegetation. They mark the perimeter of the barn, dig a trench for the strip foundation.

At the bottom of the trench, a “pillow” of sand, crushed stone and gravel is poured, carefully tamped. Now you need to fix the formwork for the foundation from old boards, plywood or slate. Metal fittings are installed inside the boxes, which should strengthen the foundation.

Pouring concrete. In several places, the solution is pierced with a metal pin, relieving the foundation of excess air. Now you need to leave the foundation for a few weeks so that the concrete can gain the necessary strength.

When the concrete dries, you can start building walls. First lay out the bottom belt.

Attention! Blocks or bricks of the bottom row must be placed on a waterproofing layer. The strip foundation is covered with a layer of roofing material or coated with bituminous mastic so that moisture from the concrete does not get on the walls of the shed.

In accordance with the drawing of the building, the walls are laid out, making window and door openings. The box of an outbuilding made of foam blocks is ready.

wood shed

Much more often it turns out that the owner has the remains of wood, and he decides to build a barn out of wood. For such work, at least minimal carpentry skills are required, because you will have to work with a saw and a planer.

A wooden building weighs very little; a columnar foundation may well act as its base. To do this, markings are made on the site, transferring the perimeter of the future building to the ground.

Pillars are installed at the corners of the barn. A few more supports should be located in the center of the rectangle. The distance between the supports is 80-120 cm (depending on the size of the barn and the type of soil on the site).

The depth of the supports depends on the level of soil freezing in the construction region, on average, it is 40-60 cm. After the trenches for the supports are dug or drilled, wooden formwork is installed in them, a sand and gravel “cushion” is filled up, and metal reinforcement is laid.

Now you need to pour concrete. After 5-6 days, when the foundation hardens, you can disassemble the formwork and start building walls.

To begin with, you need to make the lower trim of the building from a bar. Before laying the wood, the foundation supports are covered with a double layer of roofing material. At the corners, the timber is connected with metal brackets, checked by level.

Install vertical supports at the corners of the barn, be sure to check the level. Fix them with temporary spacers. Taking into account the door and window openings, the entire frame of the barn is assembled from wooden beams.

After assembling the frame, proceed to the wall cladding. This can be done with boards, moisture-resistant plywood or other sheet material.

Important! Before building a barn, wood must be treated with antiseptic agents to prevent it from rotting. To protect against fire, flame retardants are used, which are also impregnated with bars and boards.

Shed roof installation

Do-it-yourself assembly of a shed roof of a barn step by step consists of the following steps:


Advice! Sheds with pitched roofs should be inspected after each winter for defects, leaks, and damp wood.

Photos of finished sheds will help determine the type of construction and size of the utility room. But most owners of suburban areas and cottages choose small outbuildings, with parameters of 3x6 meters. And the roofs are made pitched, this design is easier to implement, cheaper and shows itself well in operation.

bouw.ru

Shed project 6x3m.

We present to your attention another free barn project 6x3 meters. These dimensions are most popular among sheds. In addition, this barn is distinguished by its simplicity: it does not have internal partitions and divisions into boxes, so it will be easier to build it.

To build a barn, you need a beam 6 meters long:

  • Board 50x150 mm - 14 pieces;
  • Board 25x100 mm - 23 pieces;
  • Board 50x100 mm - 19 pieces.

In addition, you will need boards 25x100 6 meters long: 27 pieces for flooring and 45 pieces for roofing.

Wood fiber boards (MDF) are used as walls for wind protection. The shed is easy to build and quite comfortable.

The roof of the barn is single pitched. In the future, this barn can be expanded by adding an outbuilding.

P.S. At the request of readers, we are publishing a project for an extension 3x1.5m to this barn.

Saray1.ru

How to build a frame shed with a shed roof with your own hands

Arranging a suburban area is like repairing an apartment. The process cannot be terminated, it can only be paused and then resumed. Own estate, like a living organism, always requires close attention from the owner, investment of labor efforts and funds. The question becomes especially acute when it comes to household buildings. I want them to be strong, comfortable, outwardly worthy, but inexpensive.

The union of savings with the result is possible if you build with your own hands. To do this, you need to know how a frame shed with a shed roof is being built - the most affordable option for an inexperienced performer.

Advantages of frame technology

It is not without reason that frame technologies are persistently pushing out the usual methods of construction from domestic open spaces. New methods are widely used in the construction of baths, garages, dachas, solid residential buildings. In the field of barn construction, frame technology has no alternative at all, because it:

  • Cheap. Significantly reduces the consumption of materials required for the construction of walls. Due to the lightness of the frame construction, the budgetary columnar foundation serves as the basis.
  • Fast. Construction is carried out many times faster than the construction of load-bearing structures made of foam blocks, bricks, timber, logs.
  • Easily. Installation of frame elements of a small barn is carried out without special construction equipment.
  • Practical. The building assembled from the shields on the frame can be dismantled if necessary, moved and reassembled in another place.

Other than that, it's just convenient. The frame structure easily adapts to the economic needs and taste criteria of the owners. It is possible to add or change the configuration.

The truss systems of pitched roofs are based on the upper trim of the frame structure, which plays the role of a Mauerlat. When constructing a shed roof in the classic version, the rafters are laid separately on walls of different heights.

The difference in the height of the supporting walls provides the slope with the slope necessary for the removal of precipitation. However, for a shed roof, this is an optional condition. It is quite possible to build it above a box with walls located on the same level if:

  • Build a cantilever frame over one of the walls of the frame box. The frame in such structures acts as a support for the run, on which the rafters rest on top.
  • Install truss trusses, shaped like a right triangle. The long boat of the triangle is attached to the harness, the hypotenuse plays the role of a rafter leg.

The choice of shed roof covering is closely related to the slope of its single plane. In most cases, these are gentle structures with a steepness of up to 8º. For their arrangement, rolled soft materials, bituminous or bitumen-polymer rolled material are best suited.

Shed systems with a slope of 10º to 25º are covered with metal profiled sheets or roofing steel without a profile. If it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the architectural ensemble, it is permissible to lay piece material on shed roofs. But it should be clearly remembered that the lower the steepness, the greater the likelihood of stagnation of precipitation and the flow of atmospheric water into the roofing pie. Following the extremely undesirable moisture of the components of the roofing system, premature destruction will inevitably occur.

Building a barn with a shed roof step by step

Case studies are the best way to learn how to properly build a shed with a solid shed roof. The study of real solutions will help to study the principles of technology, get an idea of ​​how to distribute the stages of work and what to focus on.

The projects proposed by us as a sample will make it possible to build a similar object without any problems or suggest how to make your own development.

Construction of a frame shed on skids

The indisputable advantage of a light frame shed on skids is that it can be moved and installed at any point in the garden plot if desired. For example, it can be placed near a swimming pool or pond in the summer for temporary placement of pumping equipment, and at the end of the season it can be moved closer to the house for storing firewood.

For the purpose of periodic transportation, the structure is installed on skids made of timber. If the idea of ​​mobility does not captivate, the shed, depending on the properties of the underlying soil, rests on a surface reinforced concrete slab or on shallow concrete blocks located at the corners of the building.

We will illustrate the process of building a shed on skids. The owner, who knows only the basic techniques of carpentry, will be able to build such an object with his own hands and equip it with an elementary shed roof. The dimensions in the figures are given in inches, we did not change them so as not to confuse interested readers. Those who wish can translate the data by multiplying the given numbers by a conditional coefficient of 2.54.

For convenience, we divide the construction into the following stages:

  • Foundation construction. Structurally, it includes a frame attached to two parallel skid bars. The skids are made of timber 4'×4', the frame is made of timber 2'×4'. The space between the sides of the frame is filled with pieces of timber 2'×4'. The base elements are connected with nails or self-tapping screws. For reliability, it is desirable to duplicate critical places with metal corners. The runners are fixed with 4 screws. All fastening points must be at least 1.2” from the edge of the workpiece to be attached, so that the wooden parts do not split.
  • Floor device. We measure the diagonals before attaching a 3/4 ″ plywood sheet to the frame, which plays the role of the future floor. The dimensions of the diagonals must match. If the condition is not met, we identify the flaws and correct them, then we fix the sheet. We do not tighten the fasteners “all the way” so as not to damage the plywood. Along the perimeter of the floor, taking into account the doorway, we lay an additional strapping.
  • Construction of the back wall of the frame. We cut out the details for it from an inch in size, taking into account the formation of the doorway. The top of the vertical elements should be sawn at an angle of 17.5º. Wall racks are fixed with temporary jibs. After checking the installation parameters with a level gauge, the racks are fastened with corners to the base. The top of ordinary racks and short racks above the opening is connected by a board nailed on top - the back of the top trim. It should be at an angle.
  • Construction of the front wall. It is carried out by analogy, but taking into account the absence of a doorway. We cut out the racks in size and cut them down in the upper part at an angle of 17.5º. In both cases, it is more convenient to cut down before installation. However, if there is no confidence in the accuracy of cutting and installation, it is better to cut the parts with a small margin. And after installation and fixing, cut down after the fact.
  • Construction of the side walls. They are made in the form of a frame with a central pillar in the middle. The extreme elements of the frame reinforce the corner posts of the frame shed.
  • Rafter manufacturing. For cutting rafters, an inch trim is used. We apply it to the place of the upcoming installation from the end and mark the lines of cuts. We cut out according to this template from a bar 2ʺ × 4ʺ.
  • Installation of rafter legs. We place the rafters exactly above the racks of the front and rear walls. For fastening, we use nails or self-tapping screws.
  • Sheathing. Produced by wall profiled sheet, grooved or non-grooved board.
  • Wind board attachment. After sheathing the walls, a 1' × 4' board is installed at the top along the perimeter so that the edge of the previous element is closed by the end of the next one. Cutting of parts is carried out with preliminary fittings according to the actual position.
  • Lathing installation. We cut moisture-resistant plywood 1/2ʺ taking into account the actual area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof along with the board installed around the perimeter. Sheet material is fixed to the rafters.
  • Laying waterproofing and coating. On sloping roofs, we lay a continuous waterproofing carpet on top of the crate. Waterproofing strips are laid from the bottom up so that the seams are ultimately directed along the flow of atmospheric water. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 10-15cm. A roof is laid on top of it. In the described example, this is a flexible tile, the laying technology of which we have already analyzed.

At the end, the doorway is framed with jambs from the board 1ʺ × 4ʺ, door hinges are installed and the door is hung.

The proposed method of building a mobile shed with a shed roof is suitable for the construction of do-it-yourself children's houses, booths for storing equipment, and external components of borehole heads.

In budget options, the base frame can be simply fixed by driving reinforcement into the ground. Metal rods about 50 cm long are either simply hammered through holes drilled in the frame, or hammered near the base, and attached to it with metal plates.

Construction of a stationary change house

Despite the more solid dimensions of the next barn, pouring a strip or monolithic foundation under it does not make the slightest sense. Enough concrete blocks laid in three rows. However, this does not mean that the work of digging and preparing the foundation pit can be abolished. It is allowed to refuse them only if a site is allocated for construction, previously leveled and carefully compacted during active operation.

If the barn is to be built on an unprepared site, then you will first have to completely remove the soil and vegetation layer. Then dig a pit, 0.2 m deep below the level of seasonal freezing in a particular region.

We will find the mark in the collection of standards "Construction climatology", not forgetting to compare the readings with the type of soil on the site. The bottom of the pit should be compacted, covered with a gravel-sand cushion for 25-30 cm and poured with a layer of lean cement 10 cm thick.

After the concrete has hardened, we mark the pit for the construction of brick or foam concrete pillars. We will build supports of the type that suits us. During the laying of the columns, we will lay the anchor for the future fastening of the lower trim of the frame.

On top of the pillars we will lay roofing material trimmings to protect the wooden frame from rotting. We will assume that the foundation stage has been successfully completed and we will directly deal with the construction of a barn with a pitched roof.

Work algorithm:

  • We check how accurately the supporting pillars are built. We put a board flat on a number of pillars and set the spirit level. Identified errors are corrected by installing board trimmings on the tops of the posts. We carry out control actions by placing the board along long and along short rows.
  • We lay the base beam on a leveled columnar foundation. If anchors were not laid during the construction of the pillars, we first try on the timber in place and mark the points for drilling holes for fastening to the pillars.
  • On top of the timber, we install the frame of the lower trim and fill it inside with ordinary logs.
  • On the logs we lay the floor of thick plywood, boards or OSB boards. The floor elements are laid with gaps of 2-3 mm for linear temperature expansion.
  • We mount the front wall according to the dimensions. We fix its position with temporary jibs.
  • We assemble and install the back and side walls of the frame. If the cutting was done correctly, then the result of the assembly will be an impeccable frame with walls of the same height. Otherwise, you will have to file or build up. For craftsmen who doubt the impeccability of the work, it is advisable to assemble the walls not with a finished frame, but with separate racks, cut with a small margin in length. According to this method, the top of the uprights is fastened with temporary side strapping. And after the construction of all the walls, the excess is sawn off according to the indications of the upper edge of the strapping.
  • On top of the ends of the racks, the upper trim is installed in two rows. If a temporary side board was used for leveling, it should be dismantled. The stationary strapping is laid with overlapping of the joints of the underlying row.
  • We assemble a cantilever-running frame, from short racks, the top of which is cut down at the required angle to form a slope. We calculate the angle in advance by drawing the roof profile in the form of a regular right triangle on the diagram.
  • We make a pattern of rafter legs from the board by attaching the blank to the side of the installation site. Do not forget that the length of the rafter leg must provide the front and rear cornice overhang.
  • We cut the rafters, install them directly above the racks, fix them with metal corners.
  • We arrange a continuous crate with a waterproofing carpet along the rafters and lay the roofing: metal tiles, profiled roofing steel, etc.

Upon completion of the frame, we sheathe the shed with siding or any similar material.

Then we build a door jamb, hang the door, locks on it. We close the cantilever frame from the inside with a mesh. If you are thinking about how best to make a roof with one slope on a frame shed with walls of equal height, information about the construction in the described way will be very useful.

Device slope truss trusses

The use of ready-made roof trusses in the formation of a shed roof is fully justified by the convenience and safety of the work. The main actions for the manufacture of truss modules are carried out in calm conditions on solid ground.

You can buy wooden or metal trusses ready-made, they just need to be hoisted onto the roof and fixed. True, the purchase will increase the construction budget somewhat.

Self-construction of roof trusses will save an impressive amount. In addition, an inexperienced master in carpentry, who decides to do the manufacture with his own hands, will be much more comfortable working on the ground.

It is easier to control the accuracy of dimensions and correct shortcomings than to saw off, build up, connect at a height. Thanks to the comfortable conditions of carpentry work, the quality of the structure increases significantly.

The main advantage of using roof trusses in frame construction is that a closed triangular module does not transfer thrust to the walls, which is highly undesirable for load-bearing structures of this type. The thrust is distributed and extinguished inside the roof truss, without transferring the load to the frame of the building.

However, the method is still not ideal. It is used only in the case of arranging small-sized buildings, because. rafter triangles without additional devices have the right to cover spans only up to 7m, with additions in the form of struts and supports up to 24m.

Rafter trusses are installed on frames with walls of equal height. The principle of construction is elementary. According to pre-designed dimensions, wooden modules are made, the configuration resembling right-angled triangles.

The hypotenuse of a triangle is most often a rafter leg, less often it is a supporting element on top of which a rafter is laid. The long leg performs the function of a floor beam. The short leg plays the role of a rack of a kind of cantilever-running frame, made up of the end parts of the truss trusses.

Before making rafter triangles, it is necessary to make a drawing with calculations. The length of the rafter leg should provide cornice overhangs on both sides. If the truss is made for the subsequent fastening of the rafters on top of the hypotenuse, then the triangle is drawn without taking into account the overhangs. Those. the long leg is equal to the width of the equipped box.

The steepness of a shed roof must be carefully considered. The prevailing number of structures with one slope have a slight slope due to the increased wind load on the vertical part of the roof. However, manufacturers of profiled steel roofing, for example, strongly recommend using material for arranging slopes with a slope of at least 25º.

Increasing the angle of inclination to the sizes recommended by manufacturers sometimes brings results that are not very attractive in terms of aesthetic criteria. In addition, the consumption of materials for the construction of the truss system and laying the coating increases. With a decrease in steepness, the consumption of waterproofing increases due to the need to lay a multilayer solid carpet and reinforce problem areas with additional waterproofing strips.

Videos in a "live" form will explain how you can make a pitched roof with your own hands: video instructions will clearly acquaint you with the process of the device.

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The construction of a barn with a shed roof using frame technology is a matter that can be safely taken on by the owner, who has not forgotten how to hold a tool in his hands.

There are not too many technological subtleties, but there are still specifics. Without taking into account the peculiarities of the construction, there can be no impeccable result. This should be remembered both when choosing the optimal method of construction, and when implementing the plans.