Original and functional: how to make a wooden table with your own hands. How to make a country table Beautiful homemade table
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Not everyone likes to buy ready-made products for home use. The soul of some people requires creative and practical self-realization. The editors of the online magazine, the site invites those who wish to learn how to make a wooden table with their own hands, what is required for this, and whether there are pitfalls in such work.
A beautiful piece of wood for the kitchen or living room, made with love
Our step-by-step recommendations are unlikely to be useful for professional carpenters, but for novice carpenters, advice will come in handy. To begin with, consider what products you can make with your own hands from wood.
Of course, the more skills a person has, the more complex the model he can make. But in order to build a table with your own hands from wood, there are ready-made drawings and photos to help beginners.
How to choose material for self-production of a wooden table for home and garden
What to make a dining table with your own hands? The best is wood. The most malleable for the newly-minted master will be pine. Poplar products will look more solemn. For the street, you can take mahogany.
If you want an option for the home and easier, then you should consider laminated chipboard with an optimal thickness of 25-35 mm. On the countertop, you can take wooden boards, birch plywood with a thickness of 35 mm. The legs can be made of metal or wooden beams (about 50 mm thick).
In order not to be mistaken with the amount of material, a preliminary drawing of the future design is made with exactly the specified dimensions.
Advice! Suitable product height varies between 750-800 mm.
Related article:
DIY furniture made of wood: for garden, children's room, kitchen, sauna, garden, arbor; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and recommendations from experts - read our publication.
What tools are needed to make a wooden table with your own hands
It doesn’t matter what shape the future table will be: a certain set of tools is required to work with wood. You can not do without a jigsaw, and it will be much easier to work with an electric model. To fix all structural elements, either a drill with a multi-stage drill for holes, or confirmations is used. To grind the product to perfection, you need either a special nozzle for a drill.
For greater fastening strength, carpentry glue is included in the tools.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands - step by step instructions
We have selected four types of structures that you can make on your own, even with a minimum of carpentry skills. We offer you to learn about the stages of manufacturing a round and rectangular table, a coffee table and a model for a garden gazebo.
Making a wooden round table
It is easiest to make a round table top and a binder ring from either 1500 × 1500 mm and 1280 × 1280 mm. You will also need two strips of chipboard (1110 × 120 × 25 mm). We will make the legs from four wooden bars measuring 120 × 50 × 750 mm.
How to make a tabletop
How to draw a circle perfectly even? On a sheet of plywood in the center, place your own thumb with a string attached to it with a pencil. The length of the rope from the base to the top should match the radius of the future tabletop. Holding your finger in one place, draw a circle with a pencil around the full length of the rope. It remains to cut it with a jigsaw.
The circle-underframe is cut out in a similar way.
Leg manufacturing
A round table made of wood or chipboard will look charming if done consistently. You don’t have to mess with the legs if there is no excessive originality in the plans. The bars are divided into 4 parts according to the desired table height minus the thickness of the table top. First, one leg is cut off, and the other three are already aligned along it.
All processing by the grinding machine is carried out immediately.
Advice! Sanding should not be rushed, as the first coating with varnish will give out all the shortcomings.
Assembly of the structure and processing of the finished product
Assembly is carried out in stages. First, the strips are aligned groove into groove. Then the crosspiece of the slats is connected with the legs with confirmations, as in the figure below:
If you want to make the structure stronger, before connecting the legs to the tabletop, their upper base is smeared with glue.
Advice! Nails are not used in such work: a self-tapping screw or confirmation can be unscrewed without problems, and the connections will be much stronger.
Making a rectangular wooden kitchen table
The rectangular design is classic and very useful in everyday life: it is convenient to cook on such a table and you can comfortably dine at it.
How to make a tabletop
The tabletop made of wood for the table is made either from a whole sheet of plywood, or from individual edged boards processed to perfect smoothness.
Having fastened the boards with screws and glue, they begin to manufacture the frame.
Production of wooden legs for the table and frame
At the heart of quadrangular models is a frame. It serves to securely fix the legs, ensuring the stability of the entire structure. The tabletop is turned over, measured 3-4 cm deep on each side and the measurements are transferred to the boards. As a result, you will need two boards of smaller length and two larger ones.
The frame is made of four elements: according to the approximate ratio, these are two boards of X cm and two of 2X cm. They are overlapped with each other in turn, building a rectangle. In order not to break the angle of 90 °, any board is used while working with a screwdriver: they press the structure with it while tightening the screws.
As soon as the frame box is ready, they begin to make legs. You can take ready-made balusters for the table, buy metal supports, or cut them out of bars according to the desired length according to the drawing.
Both the frame and the legs are subject to obligatory thorough polishing!
Product assembly and finishing
The frame is screwed to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. Then the product is turned over and the legs begin to be attached.
Important! It is better to make holes for the screws in advance. This eliminates the possibility of splitting the tree.
Why not use nails and a hammer? Not everyone has the skills to work with a hammer - here it is dangerous not only to hit your finger. From excessive zeal, it is easy to damage the wood by splitting it. Confirmates and self-tapping screws hold the tree much stronger.
As soon as the leg is fixed, the angle is immediately checked: there should not be any deviation from 90 °. The operation is repeated with other legs. You can attach the legs directly through the countertop, but this will affect the aesthetic component of the product.
Related article:
: photo of the best ideas. What can be done from a pallet for an apartment, office and cottage; rules for the selection and processing of pallets; master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and shelving - read in our publication.
Making your own wooden coffee table
Not only a beautiful element of the interior, but also useful. No need to look for where to put a book, gadget, glasses, TV remote control in a conspicuous place. Such necessary designs are made from different materials: metal, glass, plastic, chipboard, wood. But let's leave other materials alone and concentrate on working with wood.
The choice of a wooden tabletop for a table depends on the expectations of the owner of the product. Someone wants something massive, while someone prefers lighter options. Let's go with a simple solution.
We buy five boards 30 × 150 mm and process them to perfect smoothness. We immediately saw off the desired length on the countertop: you should get 6 identical canvases. We take four bars on the legs, 6 canvases of shorter length on the lower tabletop, 4 narrow slats for the frame.
| Illustration | Action Description |
|---|---|
 | For brushing wood, use a grinder with a brass brush head. The procedure will expose the structure of the tree, giving the product a special flavor. |
 | We pass back and forth on each board from the side that will be the front. |
 | We process wood with fire. The flame is gradually moved from place to place: the board will acquire a beautiful darkish tint. The procedure will finally destroy unnecessary soft wood fibers. We actively wipe the entire surface with a felt boot or a piece of felt. |
We proceed to the process of assembling a small table with our own hands from wood.
- The bottom and top tabletops are laid on the work surface with the wrong side facing you. The boards are laid tightly to each other, gluing them together. As soon as the boards grab, slats are attached to the top tabletop. They will serve as a frame and a fastening element. They can be glued or screwed with screws. The self-tapping screw is screwed in the center of the rail into each of the boards.
- The legs are screwed to both the table top and the rails. You can use furniture corners.
Video: the process of making a wooden coffee table
Making your own wooden table with benches in the gazebo
It's time to take the time and build a garden wooden table.
It is best to take boards of standard sizes. Studs are purchased at a hardware store (suitable with a length of 16 cm), washers (24 pieces). Long nails (8 cm) will fit for a garden gazebo.
To paint a product or just varnish it is already a matter of taste.
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It seems that people lived without coffee tables and can live on. But if you look at the thing from a different angle, it turns out that the interior becomes more perfect, complete, and the thing turns out to be very comfortable. Talked on the phone - put the mobile on the table. I read a book - it is convenient to leave it on the table in order to return to reading soon. Do I need to go and buy a product?
The more complex the design, the more difficulties await in the work.
To create a table, they take into account their physical and financial capabilities, the availability of the necessary materials and tools, skills in handling them and free time.
How to prepare do-it-yourself drawings with dimensions for a coffee table
Even those people who did not draw at school are faced with the need to work according to the drawings. For the manufacture of some models, a drawing may not be required, but for a coffee table made of wood with your own hands you cannot do without it.
Related article:
: photo of the best ideas. What can be done from a pallet for an apartment, office and cottage; rules for the selection and processing of pallets; master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and shelving - read in our publication.
Making your own wood coffee table
How do you want such a wooden coffee table as in the photo! If the desire to have a thing made of wood is strong, then there is no point in stopping yourself: arm yourself with tools, study articles on processing and teak wood, and “full speed ahead”!
Table in country style from a wooden barrel
A do-it-yourself coffee table made of wood and a barrel looks amazing on the photo. Country style is not as rustic as it seems, with such a table it is something exquisite.
Making your own coffee table from chipboard
Relatively inexpensive material, and the finished product looks modern and stylish.
Let's try to make a table step by step:
- Creating a drawing.
- Preparation of material and tools.
- Work with a jigsaw - all the details are transferred to a chipboard sheet and cut out.
- The legs are attached to the back of the tabletop lying on the floor with the help of furniture corners.
- All edges of chipboard are pasted over with matching furniture edges.
The more complex the drawing, the more attention is needed in the work.
How to make a coffee table from chipboard
A plywood coffee table is made in a short time. Tip for inexperienced craftsmen: sawing all the details can be ordered at a building materials store. Based on a sheet thickness of 18 mm, we order 800 × 800 mm - a tabletop, 460 × 100 mm - four strips, 700 × 500 mm - a shelf, 700 × 500 mm - two bottoms, four plastic corners, eight confirmations and self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm (16 pieces should be enough). All elements must be covered with melamine edging.
Let's move on to assembly:
- According to the drawing, we cut out the required shape of the shelf with a jigsaw. Be sure to use a fine pitch woodcarving file.
- We fasten the vertical strips to the countertop using corners and self-tapping screws.
- In the middle of the slats, you need to install a shelf on confirmations. To screw them in, we pre-drill holes with a 4.5 mm drill. Also, confirmations need to be screwed to the bottom.
- All conspicuous confirmations are covered with stubs.
Advice! Optionally, such a table is installed on wheel supports.
We make a glass table with our own hands
For lovers of everything airy and spacious, a glass model is suitable. In the absence of glass handling skills, it is better to stop on a table without unnecessary details.
Assembly:
- Drawing a drawing and making cardboard patterns according to it.
- Glass cutting according to the pattern.
- Sanding the edges with sandpaper or a drill at low speeds.
The tabletop assembly scheme is shown in the photo below.
You can add a glass top to a table made of car discs, barrels, wood, saw cuts, pallets.
Making your own coffee table from improvised materials
A favorite topic for many creative people is how to use improvised materials for practical use. Products from tires are especially popular - they are convenient to install in summer cottages and verandas, and from suitcases that have served their time as travelers.
Tire table
There are different ideas on how to use tires as a table. What pleases, such products are durable, original and take a minimum of time in the manufacture.
Here is a small instruction for creating a furniture garden set with a small table at the head.
| Illustration | Action Description |
|---|---|
 | Prepare 11 tires of the same diameter. We take two tires on the chair and connect them with ourselves using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. For the table we take three tires. |
 | We cut out 4 circles from plywood (pressed chips) with a size slightly larger than the inner diameter of the tire, and one large circle for the countertop. |
 | The result is a cute garden set. |
Table-suitcase
Do you have an old suitcase? How wonderful!
So, what is needed for such a rapid transformation? Four stable legs of any type - the main thing is that they are combined with the final decor option and can easily withstand the product. Legs can be bought on Avito or torn off from old unnecessary furniture, made on a lathe. As a painting, you can take white enamel, as it is easy to decorate. But, in general, the color can be any, up to gilding. If the appearance of the suitcase is perfectly preserved, then you can not paint it. If you wish, you also need PVA glue, decoupage napkins, brushes, sandpaper, gold or silver acrylic.
First paint the base and let it dry. All irregularities are sanded, and a second layer of enamel is applied. Now we paint the legs and, as soon as they dry, glue them with furniture glue to the base. That's all the work! We turn the table and admire the result of labor.
How to make a coffee table with additional elements with your own hands
If the hostess loves permutations, or the table needs to move, wheel supports are attached to the legs as an additional element. It is very comfortable. If the table is small, then it can be served for tea in the kitchen and rolled into the living room. Drawers are another additional and functional element. It turns out that the table becomes doubly comfortable.
Table on wheels
To create a coffee table on wheels with your own hands, ready-made wheel supports are required. A small photo gallery of tables on wheels: they may not necessarily be small, large metal or plastic wheels look even more interesting!
The wheels are attached to the legs when the supports themselves are already attached to the tabletop.
Table with drawers
Drawers can be from one to three or four, it depends on the model of the table.
To assemble a simple box, you need 4 small panels of chipboard, wood glue, rails, and self-tapping screws.
After fixing all the guides, check the smoothness and accuracy of the stroke. Then we assemble the box and simply insert it into the guides.
Do-it-yourself restoration of a coffee table: photos of interesting ideas
DIY coffee table decor is limited by the creator's imagination. Any fantasy can be realized with effort. The decor must be chosen according to the style of the room, otherwise the dissonance will make the thing superfluous. But if you do not want to make a new coffee table with your own hands? Then you need to learn how to restore the old one.
Decoupage is an interesting technique using PVA glue, beautiful napkins. If you want to make decoupage antique, then use crackle varnish.
The photo below is the answer to the question of how to update the coffee table with your own hands.
If the furniture needs to be updated due to its condition, then the first thing to do is turn the table over onto the countertop and check the fastening of the support legs. If something needs to be corrected, then there is no point in delaying it - the furniture will continue to deteriorate faster. You can simply repaint the table, sand it and try to paint it.
PVA is applied to the countertop, scraps are laid. At first, the leaves may lie unevenly, but as they dry, they will even out. At the end, the product is varnished.
Article
The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial carpentry skills, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.
The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, which we will try to help the reader with.
There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest costs of labor, money and time.
Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules of good taste. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular table of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.
Dimensions and ergonomics
The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.
The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.
The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen tabletop are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.
What to do
Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.
The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle an electric jigsaw is not a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a milling cutter of a profile you like, with it the work on aiming the moulding takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.
No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required to complete them in a high-end design (item 4). Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).
Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2500 rubles, and assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.
Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the table top. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with meatballs and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers improve this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be further devoted in this publication.
Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors, who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.
Technological subtleties and innovations
The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.
table top
This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:
Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:
How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:
How to make a shield kitchen table top:
How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:
In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.
Dowels, confirmations and dowels
Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Joints with wooden dowels are usually glued.
It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.
Details made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:
- Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
- The diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
- The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
- The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
- The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
- The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
- The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
- Holes for confirmations should be drilled with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation on the thread.
In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:
- By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
- There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
- We are looking for a point of sale where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
- We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.
And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and various types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.
Different tables
Classic
Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.
It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.
The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between their thermal expansion modules and wood, the table will soon loosen.
Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.
The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual way, on the right in fig.
Desk drawer
A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not foreseen in this case, and the smooth running of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.
The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.
To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross section of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.
Very simple
A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.
Beam
Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.
In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can watch the following video:
Video: do-it-yourself table by components
The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the tabletop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the tabletop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.
Without pedestal
Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will face the following tricks.
First, a table-top is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. The strapping from the timber expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.
The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.
And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.
Books and cheburashki
The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the book-table (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.
A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.
A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.
The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).
Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.
Alternative
If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.
The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.
One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.
A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for the job
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for grinding.
Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.
Jigsaw rating - The grinder will help to make the surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
To make a similar country table - everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:
- Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Joiner's glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
- 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.
Frame or "box" of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards 1680 × 100 × 25 mm in size and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.
The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:
Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners - using a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;
- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of tongue and groove connection - “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;
- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.
- All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
- If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, it is necessary to drill through holes.
- After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the table top.
The next step is to install the legs. - The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.
If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
- In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.
Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) | part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Production material, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top. | 1 | 600×475 | Plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop. | 2 | 530×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top. | 2 | 120×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table. | 2 | 720x520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the pedestal. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the pedestal. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Bottom panel of the drawer. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Drawer handles and drawer doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg piece. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture hinges for doors. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size. |
 | Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center. |
 | Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets. |
 | The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from the negative influence of the specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended, in addition to self-tapping screws, to fasten the panel to use glue: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the front panel, through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg by 120 mm. |
 | Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or simply there is a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then do not put off self-production. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: round table assembly example
And one more idea of a kitchen table, which, if incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement independently:
Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table
Even a novice master can make a table from improvised materials. But before assembling a coffee table with your own hands, it is better to view the drawings and diagrams in advance. This will allow you to decide on the shape of future furniture and cut off too complex options.
Do-it-yourself drawings and diagrams of coffee tables
It is comfortable, lightweight and versatile. For the rigidity of the frame, the underframe is assembled from legs and a drawer - a rectangle connecting the legs and supporting the tabletop. Otherwise, the legs will move apart and the table will lose its stability.
At the same time, the complexity of the assembly does not increase much, but now you can store books, notebooks or other trinkets in the coffee table.
A feature of this design is the absence of legs - they are replaced by four sidewalls, to which a ready-made folding mechanism is attached from the inside. To it, on a short pair of supports, a wide board is fixed - the underframe, and a double tabletop is attached to the high supports, which, in the unfolded version, rests on the underframe.
PVC pipe magazine table
The simplest and most economical, but very original version of a coffee table is to make it from plastic pipes. The shape and height depend only on the wild imagination. It can be a small round table that functions as a bedside table or a full-fledged coffee table with a glass top.
To create it you will need:
- pipes of two diameters - thicker for the legs and narrower for the underframe, for example, 16 and 9 mm;
- glue gun or a tube of transparent superglue;
- medium grit sandpaper;
- hacksaw for cutting plastic pipes (can be replaced with a saw for wood);
- acrylic paint to hide the printed markings on the pipes.
The process itself is simple to disgrace:
- Cylinders of the selected length are cut. 4 legs are made from a thick pipe - their length will be equal to the height of the future table (40-50 cm). 30 short cylinders are cut from a narrow pipe, on average 10-15 cm (depending on the shape of the table, the number can be changed).
- You need to start assembling the base from the center - so there will definitely not be large gaps between the cylinders. Glue is applied to the entire surface of the adjacent pipes. A little trick - to accurately glue the cylinders, liquid superglue is poured from the end of the pipes so that it stacks down the entire length of the joint. With a glue gun, the joints are simply processed from the outside - after painting they will become invisible.
- When the desired shape is reached, the legs are glued - you need to make sure that the diagonal distance between them is equal. Otherwise, the table will fall on one side.
- The final step is painting. The easiest way to do this is with an aerosol method, although you can also use a simple paint brush.
When laying a glass top on your table, you should choose tempered glass with a thickness of 10 mm. To prevent the removable tabletop from sliding on the base, use silicone shock absorbers for furniture.
If a non-removable countertop is planned, it is fixed with transparent silicone glue.
Assembling a wooden coffee table with your own hands
For admirers of the classic style, there is nothing better than a wooden table. For him, you need to stock up:
- planed bar 40x40 mm - for legs;
- planed board 50x20 mm - for the side;
- a finished worktop made of furniture board 800x400 mm (but MDF or plywood is also suitable);
- putty for wood - overwrite holes from self-tapping screws;
- sandpaper or a grinding nozzle on a drill - process wood;
- varnish or paint - for finishing the table.
Of the tools you will need a screwdriver (or screwdriver), a saw for wood and a drill. After cutting the bar into legs, and the boards into the drawer side, the assembly of the table itself begins:
- The underframe is assembled first. For convenience and ease of assembly, everything is done upside down. Sidewalls to the legs are attached obliquely with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes. But you can also use metal corners if aesthetics are not so important.
Wooden tables are not only made from planed wood. With minimal woodworking skills, you can create original furniture even from firewood. For example, picking up a wooden block of suitable height and a pair of Y-shaped thick branches, working a little with a grinding nozzle and varnishing everything, you get an excellent massive coffee table for a summer residence.
And if after the construction of the house there are several euro pallets left, there is no need to rush to dispose of them. It's almost a finished table!
It is enough to grind and stain the surface, put them one on top of the other and securely connect them together. And to make the table mobile, 4 wheels are screwed from below, 2 of which are with brakes.
Decorating a coffee table with epoxy resin
If there is a sawmill nearby and there you can get a sawn board with a lot of defects for a pittance - just great! It is from such materials that the most beautiful tables decorated with epoxy resin are obtained.
The process is time consuming but not overly complicated:
- The cut board is glued with wood glue into the countertop. Flat boards must be placed under the clamps - for uniform fixation.
- After the glue has completely dried, the tabletop is polished, all cracks and holes from knots are cleaned. Before applying epoxy, the surface must be cleaned of dust and small chips.
- To make the table glow effectively, use luminescent paint in powder. About 100 g of paint is needed for 2 liters of the finished resin solution. Resin and hardener are mixed 1:1, the dose should be measured accurately and so that the hand does not flinch. Too much hardener will cause the resin to crack, while a lack of hardener will delay the curing period.
Such a tabletop is suitable for a coffee table in the living room of a cottage, and in the bedroom of a city apartment.
If there are several meters of wooden bars left at home, you can even make a table out of them! The video shows in detail and clearly how to make unusual designer furniture from building debris:
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