Solder pp pipes. Soldering technology for polypropylene pipes. Threaded fittings for polypropylene pipes

Recently, traditional cast iron and steel pipelines are increasingly being replaced by more modern products of the chemical industry - PVC and polypropylene pipes. But new materials require a different technology for connecting pipes, and brazing is the most effective in this case.

Note! The soldering temperature, which affects the quality of the connection, depends on the dimensions of the products - this can be seen in the table below.

Polypropylene pipes, marking	Characteristics and purpose
PN 10	technical characteristics are acceptable for cold water supply up to 20 degrees Celsius, warm system floors up to 45 degrees, at an operating pressure of 1 MPa
PN 16	characteristics determine the use for both hot (up to 60 degrees Celsius) and cold water supply, nominal working pressure - 1.6 MPa
PN 20	technical characteristics of this type of pipes allow the use in hot water systems with temperatures up to 95 degrees, nominal pressure - 2 MPa
PN 25	reinforced polypropylene pipe: characteristics are suitable for hot water supply, as well as for central heating systems up to 95 degrees Celsius, nominal pressure - 2.5 MPa

Step 1. The choice of one or another source material directly depends on the future destination. The main criterion for division is the maximum allowable temperature of the working medium. In this regard, pipes are distinguished for hot, cold, as well as mixed water supply.

To determine the exact number of pipes and fittings needed, the room is measured and a rough plan is drawn up. The latter indicates the dimensions of the future highway and all its elements.

After purchasing all the components, you can proceed to the next step.

Stage 2. Necessary equipment

The principle of soldering is to heat the ends of the pipes to be connected to the required temperature and then fix them. To do this, you need a special device - a welding machine.

It can be of three types:

In addition to the device itself, the work will require:

About the choice of nozzles

The heating nozzles must correspond to the cross-section of the connected pipes. To do this, you need to pay attention to certain parameters:

strength;
shape retention during temperature changes;
thermal conductivity.

Most welding machines are compatible with several different nozzles at once, which is extremely convenient when arranging complex highways.

Each nozzle has two ends at once - one is intended for heating the outer surface of the products, the other for the inner one. All nozzles are coated with Teflon, which prevents sticking of the molten coating. The dimensions of the nozzles vary between 2 cm and 6 cm, which completely coincides with the common and pipe sections.

When the plan is drawn up, and all the components are purchased, it remains only to carefully clean the room. Particular attention should be paid to dust, because even the smallest particles, settling on the seams, can easily break the tightness.

First, the nozzle is inserted into the socket, after which the device is turned on. Further actions depend on the chosen soldering technique, so we will consider them (methods) in more detail.

Method number 1. Diffusion soldering

When using this welding technology, the material of the parts to be joined mutually penetrates each other, and after cooling it forms a monolithic element. One of the most common processing methods, which, however, is only suitable for homogeneous materials.

Note! In this case, the soldering temperature reaches 265ᵒС. It is at this temperature that polypropylene melts.

Video - Diffusion brazing of PP pipes

Method number 2. Socket soldering

When welding in a socket way, welding machines with different nozzle cross-sections are used. The procedure itself looks quite simple.

Step 1. First, pipe sections of the required length are cut. It is important that the cutting takes place exclusively at right angles.

Step 2. The ends of the products are cleaned with a shaver (if reinforced pipes are used).

Step 3. The ends are inserted into the nozzle of the appropriate section, heated to the melting temperature and connected.

Note! It is extremely important that the pipes do not change their position when cooling.

Method number 3. Butt soldering

This method is useful when connecting pipes of large diameter. As in the previous versions, the pipes are cut into sections of the required length, and the ends are carefully cleaned.

Method number 3. Sleeve soldering

With the coupling method of welding, an additional part is introduced between the elements to be connected - a coupling. Warming up occurs in the same way, only the sections of the highway are not heated, but only the connection elements.

Method number 4. Polyfusion soldering

A kind of diffuse technology, characterized in that only one of the two connected elements is melted.

Method number 5. "Cold" soldering of PP pipes

This welding method involves applying a special adhesive to the pipes to be joined. It is characteristic that the use of "cold" welding is permissible only in those lines in which the pressure of the working fluid is negligible.

When overheating or connecting pipes of small diameter, there is a risk of formation of sagging on the inner surface. These influxes will prevent the free movement of the working fluid during operation.

To avoid this, it is necessary to check the connection for such defective areas. The junction must be blown through, and if the air passes unhindered, then the welding definitely turned out to be of very high quality.

Note! After that, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connection - for this, a small amount of water is passed through the soldered elements.

Important Rules for Soldering Polypropylene

For a high-quality and tight connection, certain rules must be followed.

Soldering PP pipes in difficult areas

To the question, what is the main problem in the arrangement of a plastic pipeline, any specialist will answer: soldering in hard-to-reach places. To perform this procedure, the structure is divided into several sections.

First of all, an uncomfortable large area is mounted. It is advisable to form it separately, and only then install it in a stationary place.

After fixing the problem area, smaller and, accordingly, easy-to-install elements are installed. This activity should be done by at least two people.

Video - Installation in hard-to-reach places

Typical mistakes when soldering plastic pipes

Video - Technology for soldering PP pipes

Results

Skills in soldering PP pipes will come with time. There is nothing complicated here, although at first several couplings and one or two dozen meters of pipes will be damaged. And this is not scary, because they are not so expensive; at least autonomy from plumbers is more expensive.

A real home master always tries to do without the help of professionals in any repair. And if necessary, you can also do it on your own to replace PVC heating pipes or plumbing in the apartment.

The use of polymer pipes for distributing water pipes has the advantage that it is not necessary to work with welding, threading, and therefore the work is greatly facilitated.

Before installing polypropylene pipes, you need to have an idea of how to work with a soldering iron for PVC pipes, purchase the necessary tools and materials.

How to make connections so that they are airtight?

For the three most common soldering methods, below is a detailed description of all operations:

Bell-shaped

For soldering pipes of small diameter (up to 50 mm), a simple hand-held apparatus is used. If you need to connect pipes of large diameter, then use a device with centering devices.
Two heating nozzles are a sleeve on which a PVC pipe is put on. This design also has a mandrel (a device for moving the workpiece in the sleeve hole), into which the coupling is inserted.
The apparatus for soldering polypropylene pipes must be installed on a flat horizontal surface and left to heat up to the required temperature. The warm-up process lasts 10-15 minutes - it depends on the power of the device.
When soldering pipes that belong to the category PN 10 and PN 20 (difference in working pressure), the joints must be cleaned of dirt and burrs. If you need to solder reinforced PVC pipes, then you need to remove the upper part of the pipe with a shaver so that it can be easily put on the fitting. Shaving is done to the depth of the pipe entering the coupling.
The fitting and the pipe are put on the nozzles of the soldering iron and kept for heating for the right time, which is determined by the power of the soldering iron and the temperature in the room. Instructions for time exposure are in the documentation for the device.
The heated parts must be quickly removed from the device and connected to each other in a translational motion. Circular movements are not allowed.
The connected parts must be kept in a stationary position for a while so that the pipes do not deform. After complete cooling of the section, the connection is ready for operation.

Butt

Installation of a pipeline with a diameter of more than 50 mm is done in a different way - a butt joint of fragments is used. This soldering method is effective and justified only for pipes with a wall thickness of more than 4 mm.

Before soldering, the ends of the pipes must be aligned so that they are parallel to each other.
The use of centering devices is mandatory, as axes must be strictly aligned.
To heat the surfaces, a disc heating element is used, in which the heating surface is ideally flat.
Other technological operations are the same as for socket soldering.

Saddle soldering

This is a type of butt soldering. With this method of soldering, a special saddle must be soldered to the surface of the pipe, which has a socket with an angle of 90˚. When assembling a pipeline from polymer pipes, a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is used.

After cooling this fragment, you need to drill a hole in the PVC pipe through the saddle. Then another pipe must be soldered to the saddle. You should end up with a pipe structure that is shaped like the letter "T".

Your movements should be clear and fast. If you are not experienced with soldering, try making a few trial seams.

Soldering polypropylene pipes on your own is not difficult, but this work requires accuracy and attention. The main thing is to observe the heating time of the elements and the exposure during cooling of the parts - the quality seam of the joints depends on this.

At what temperature should polypropylene pipes be soldered?

Polypropylene begins to melt at 140°C, and the operating temperature of the soldering iron is typically 260°C to ensure complete diffusion of the materials.

PN10 pipes

How to solder large diameter pipes

Pipes with a diameter greater than 50 mm must only be butt-joined. The butt soldering method has been described above. First, you need to insert the fitting socket into the heated nozzle, and only then - the pipe. After that, you need to maintain the connection for the specified time.

Check the connection for quality - if the pipe hole is blocked by a polypropylene overlay, then in the next connection the pipe must be inserted into the nozzle 2-3 mm closer, that is, not so deep.

The main rule when soldering pipes of a larger diameter is to wait a longer time for them to heat up. Otherwise, all operations are carried out in the same way.

Overheating of the connector and pipe must not be allowed.

If the pipes are not soldered correctly, then you can get a leak, and the floor and furniture will suffer first of all. It is not always possible to restore furniture, moreover, there will be a reason to update the interior. Choose high-quality furniture in stores with a large assortment, for example, in ikeastore.com.ua - a huge selection for every taste and budget.

To consolidate the theory, watch a video on how to properly solder polypropylene pipes

How to choose a soldering iron for pipes, what to buy?

The manufacturer of the soldering iron is of great importance for the quality of the seam.

Which manufacturer's country is better to choose?

In the first place now are Czech soldering irons. This unit will cost a lot more than the rest, but the quality of the soldering justifies its cost.

Buyers give second place to Turkish manufacturers.

Chinese soldering irons for polypropylene pipes have a very attractive price, so they will be a good choice for one-time use, for example, for piping in your apartment. The quality of Chinese devices is not the best, durability is also lame, but it will be enough for arranging several apartments.

With careful attention to the quality of the seam, soldering reliability can be guaranteed. To date, you can choose from the following manufacturers:

nozzles

It is most effective to use a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes only with the installation of several different nozzles on it at the same time. In fact, changing nozzles while the soldering iron is running is difficult and unsafe.

Nozzles, which are now produced for soldering irons of polypropylene pipes, are designed to connect products with both the same and different diameters.

The nozzle is manufactured with different surface coatings to increase durability and reliability in operation.

It can be metallized or plain Teflon. In order for the nozzles to last longer, before work, it is necessary to remove plastic residues from previous solderings from them.

Fittings for polypropylene pipes are relatively cheap, and the cost of one adapter or coupling does not depend on the complexity of the part or its size. For example, a coupling of any diameter costs about 10 rubles.

Polymer products are used in many areas. A plastic cup, a laundry basket, heating radiators - everything is made on the basis of polymers.

Polypropylene is considered universal. Pipes made of this material are used for the installation of pipelines, underfloor heating systems, and ventilation in the house. Installation technology does not require special skills. You can figure out how to solder polypropylene pipes on your own in half an hour.

Peculiarities

Polypropylene is a synthetic polymer with high physical and mechanical properties. It is both durable, flexible and resistant to negative influences. He is not afraid of blows, temperature changes, chemistry. With such characteristics, it is difficult to believe that the closest relative of polypropylene is polyethylene.

The material is produced by the polymerization of propylene. In order for it to have strength characteristics, catalysts are added to the raw material. The product of a chemical reaction of substances is a white powder or colored granules.

Granular or powder polypropylene enters the production, which takes place in six stages:

extrusion. First of all, the raw material enters the extruder. Inside this device, the granules soften and become a plastic mass. To turn a solid raw material into a viscous mass, it is heated to 250°C. For white pipes, raw materials are used in their pure form. If colored products are needed, dyes of the desired shade are added to the extruder. The addition of pigment does not affect the quality of the product.
Molding. At the next stage, the mass is profiled. The extruder “squeezes out” pipe blanks. According to the standard, the pipe diameter is 16, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 62, 75, 90, 110 mm for work in the house. For underground work (laying of communications), products of large diameter are used - up to 120 cm.

hardening. Hot blanks are cooled with cold water. For this, the product is immersed in a cooling bath.
Applying a protective layer. The cured pipes are passed through equipment that "wraps" the product in a thin layer of protective film. This film is foil. It helps keep materials usable after long periods of storage. The film must be removed before installation.
Marking. Basic information is applied to the foil. According to it, you can immediately determine for what work this or that type of pipe is intended.
Slicing. This is the last production step. The cut products are delivered to the warehouse for packaging and storage.

Small and curly parts from the same raw materials (for example, pipe fittings) are produced in a similar way. After the extruder, the liquid mass is fed into a mold, where parts of complex shape are cast. They don't need cutting. Small fragments are produced immediately piece by piece.

The production of reinforced pipes is somewhat more complicated. It implies an intermediate or outer layer of more durable materials. This layer is necessary in order to reduce stretching at elevated temperatures.

Since polypropylene is close to polyethylene - a stretchy and plastic substance - it also has the ability to increase and decrease in size with temperature changes. When low, the material compresses; when high, it stretches.

The stretch coefficient of polypropylene materials is significant. So, a pipe 10 m long at a temperature of 95-100 ° C can be stretched by 150 mm. This is of great importance for engineering communications that use propylene parts.

Stretching is dangerous because the pipe is no longer as strong as it was before the temperature change. Therefore, it must be prevented in all systems where the maximum heating temperature of the product exceeds 90°C.

The scope of polypropylene pipes is determined by their thickness: the thicker they are, the stronger. The stronger - the greater mechanical and physical stress they will withstand. The more “hardy” the pipes are in operation, the wider the range of use.

Manufacturers produce products of two types: thin-walled and thick-walled.

Pipes with PN10 and PN16 markings are considered thin-walled. PN10 withstand temperature fluctuations up to 45°C and pressure not more than 10 atm. Wall thickness - 0.9-1 mm. The scope of their application is very limited by technical characteristics, so they are the cheapest. They must be used away from high temperatures.

PN16 withstands heating up to 60°C and pressure up to 16 atm. The walls are much thicker - 15 mm. At the same time, this type of pipe has a distinctive feature that makes it difficult to use the material in many areas. This is a large extensibility at temperatures above 60°C. In almost all heating systems where pipes are often used, the temperature is above this value.

Thick-walled include all brands, starting with PN20. This is already serious equipment with thick, durable walls up to 21 mm. It is universal for any kind of work.

Thick-walled pipes are reinforced and non-reinforced.

The reinforcing layer is located inside the pipe, between the layers of propylene or outside the product, like a shell. It protects polymer products from stretching at high temperatures.

Made from different materials:

fiberglass;
foil;
polyethylene;
aluminum.

Pipes without reinforcement and with a fiberglass reinforcing layer are the easiest to install. They melt well and connect with fittings without obstruction. The connection is reliable.

Pipes with aluminum and foil are more difficult to work with. If aluminum is on the outside of the polypropylene layer, it must be stripped over the entire width of the joint. Soldering is not possible without stripping. Due to the aluminum protection, it will not be possible to melt the propylene, which means that there will be no quality connection.

It is necessary to clean the pipe with a special tool for pipes with aluminum reinforcement. This process is long and laborious, especially with a large diameter of the product.

If the aluminum layer is inside the propylene pipe, it is even more difficult to strip it. But it is necessary. During installation, the inner and outer layers of propylene must be fused together and “soldered” aluminum so that water does not get on it.

Aluminum does not rust, but if water gets between the layers, the pipe may burst.

Combined products and pipes with an aluminum plate inside the product are the most difficult to install, but not the most effective.

Advantages and disadvantages

The material has a lot of advantages:

Relatively light weight. Polypropylene pipes weigh 9 times less than metal pipes. They are easier to transport and install.
The price for one pipe 4 m - in the range of 30-110 rubles.
Installation does not require professional skills. It's worth practicing on spare parts, but it won't take long.
Reliable and tight connection of pipeline parts and any other design. Soldering provides it. The joints are protected from water and leaks and are as strong as the pipe itself.
The material is processed. You can make straight and oblique cuts, cut them into fragments from 1 cm wide to any desired length. This is convenient when pipes have to be installed in hard-to-reach places.

The material complies with the requirements of GOST. In production, materials are used that can come into contact with drinking water.
Specifications meet the requirements of SNiP for pipe installation in different operating conditions. We allow installation indoors and outdoors (underground).
Polypropylene does not rust. The composition does not contain materials that are susceptible to corrosive processes.
Products do not need to be painted. They already have a white or other color and a semi-matte surface. The dye is added to the raw material at the first stage of production, so the pigment is securely fixed. After 10 years of service, the product will have the same color.

For every task there is a solution. If you need to carry out cold water, there is PN10, for boiling water - PN25.
Water flows silently through the pipes. Silence is provided by the thickness and density of the material.
No deposits from the direct flow of water appear inside the pipe.
Service life - up to 50 years.
Waste-free use. From the remains of pipes, you can make useful and beautiful things for home and life.

But there are still disadvantages:

Pipes are subject to stretching at high temperatures. Even reinforced.
Products cannot be bent. To change the direction of the pipe (turn around the corner, down and beyond), you need to use fittings.
Soldering requires special tools.
Scratches from mechanical damage may remain on the surface of the pipes. It does not harm the integrity, but the appearance will suffer.
Reinforced pipes require preparation before soldering. Only products with fiberglass can be soldered immediately, while aluminum and foil need to be cleaned.

Where to apply?

Polypropylene pipes are a multifunctional thing in the household.

Here's what you can do with them:

Plumbing system. For cold water supply, an unreinforced thin-walled or thick-walled pipe is suitable. It is cheap, easy to install, and does an excellent job of transporting water with temperatures up to 45 degrees.
Hot water system. Boiling temperature water can be safely supplied through pipes marked NP20 or NP25. Propylene begins to melt only at 170 degrees.

Centralized heating system in a cottage, house or country house. To do this, you need to choose pipes of large diameter with fiberglass. They are reliable and do not require complex stripping. The soldering of such pipes goes with a bang. The heat-conducting elongation of pipes with fiberglass is 10 times less than without it - only 1.5 cm. Due to this, the pipes do not sag or deform.
Water heated floor. If there is not enough heat from pipelines with hot water, a floor heating system is installed. The disadvantage of such a floor is that it is impossible to roll the pipe with a small step. Plus - in the economy of maintenance of the system and its service life. The service life of a water heated floor is about 50 years. In this case, the system can be mounted directly into the floor screed.

Auxiliary systems: ventilation and sewer.
Fence in the country. It will not protect against uninvited guests, but it can delimit the territory with neighbors. In protected summer cottages, this is one of the simple and budget options.
Greenhouse or greenhouse. The pipes are strong and well endure the snow load in winter. Of these, it is convenient to assemble a simple greenhouse 1.5-2 m high.
Multi-tiered flower bed for garden plants.
Gazebo and garden furniture. Chairs, firewood racks, awnings, portable tables, deck chairs.

Houseware. From scraps of pipes you can make useful things for the hallway, balcony, garage, workshop, children's room. With the help of tees, couplings and pipe fragments, any geometric object is assembled - a shoe rack, a flower stand, a clothes hanger, a dryer or a wastebasket. All that is enough for imagination and the remnants of the material. It is convenient to assemble playgrounds, swings, houses for small children. If you add a net, you get an excellent goal for children's football.
Decor elements. Using corners and adapters, you can assemble a loft-style bookshelf. Short cuts of different diameters will go to create a frame for a photo or a mirror, lamps, flower pots and vases.

What will be required?

When working with polypropylene pipes, you will need several groups of tools.

The first group is necessary for measurements. It includes a tape measure, rulers, markers, building levels. In complex cases, you will have to resort to mathematical calculations. For example, when using propylene pipes to supply water from a source on the street to the house.

In addition to drawing and measuring tools, you will need alcohol and scraps of cotton fabric. They are needed to degrease the surface of the pipes. The degreased surface will better mark the markup and it is more convenient for soldering.

The second group of devices is necessary for cutting. The length of one pipe is on average 4 meters. From it you need to cut short fragments, adjusting them to the size of the area where the pipes will be installed.

It is not recommended to cut the pipe with improvised materials. It is long, inconvenient, and the cut is of poor quality. Its edge is “washed”, it turns out with burrs. It must be cleaned with sandpaper or cut with a thin knife.

Tools for a single cut (can be used to cut 1-2 fragments when there are no others at hand):

hacksaw for metal;
jigsaw;
grinder saw;
self-sharpening knife.

Propylene is soft, so these tools will do the job. If you have to use them in the absence of others, it is important to consider that the cut will be uneven, and chips will get inside the pipe. This shaving must be removed so that it does not “walk” through the plumbing or underfloor heating system.

Electrical appliances (jigsaw, saw) require accuracy in work. It is necessary to control the force with which the pipe is pressed and turn the pipe several times when cutting. This helps to make the cut straight and not at an angle.

The listed tools must be used correctly - do not cut, but try to fix the product in place and press the tool from above. In this case, the cut will be as close to the ideal as possible and the chips will be smaller. But this method is only suitable for thin-walled and small diameter pipes. With reinforced products will have to tinker.

Tools for high-quality cutting of pipes:

special scissors for plastic pipes, including propylene;
roller pipe cutter;
electric pipe cutter;
guillotine pipe cutter.

Pipe shears are completely different from ordinary ones. They have a sharp blade on one side only. In place of the second is a wide metal base. There is a groove inside the base. When cutting plastic products, the sharp edge of the blade enters this groove. The edge of the pipe is smooth and suitable for installation.

To work with such scissors, only muscular strength is needed. To cut the pipe, you need to close the handles of the scissors so that the blade passes through the plastic.

The advantage of these scissors is that they are light, cheap, and can be easily moved from place to place. The downside is that the distance between the blade and the base cannot be increased. Only thin pipes (up to 45 mm) pass through it.

Products of large diameter (for sewerage, heating) cannot be cut manually.

Also, some craftsmen consider it a disadvantage that the effectiveness of the tool is directly related to physical effort.

Roller pipe cutter, on the contrary, is more focused on working with large diameters. Outwardly, it looks like a clamp. The cutting blade is located on the end side of the clamp.

It’s even easier to imagine this tool if you remember a manual canning machine. The device is installed on the pipe and tightened with a bolt. It is important not to overtighten so that the product does not crack. After that, you need to take hold of the blade handle and turn it clockwise. Get a circular cut with a smooth edge.

The advantage of the tool is in convenient use and high-quality results. In size and weight, it is larger than scissors. According to the principle of action, it is also associated with physical effort.

An electric (or battery) pipe cutter is powered by an electric motor. He gets the job done quickly and effortlessly. However, the diameter of the product is also limited, as with manual scissors.

The guillotine type pipe cutter is a hand tool. Its design is fundamentally different from scissors and pipe cutters, and the possibilities are somewhat greater. They can cut pipes with a diameter of 5-35 cm. At the same time, it is not necessary to clamp the pipe with clamps. The cut is even without the risk of cracking the plastic.

The third group of tools is useful for stripping pipes.

It includes only two tools, but they are very important:

beveler;
calibrator.

The purpose of the beveler is to remove the edge and the top layer of plastic around the pipe cut. This improves the soldering quality.

Bevelers vary in diameter. They are also mechanical and automatic. The tool is not universal, so it is important not to miscalculate with the characteristics.

The calibrator is needed for processing reinforced pipes. With it, remove the aluminum layer or foil. It is also able to eliminate burrs and irregularities on the cut. Some calibrators can act as a beveler.

A useful function of the calibrator is to return the cut to a perfectly round shape if the pipe is slightly wrinkled during the cutting process.

The main disadvantage of these tools is that each diameter needs its own calibrator and beveler.

The fourth group of devices is needed for, in fact, soldering. Welding or soldering of pipes is carried out with a soldering iron with interchangeable nozzles. Working with this machine requires caution and safety precautions.

Since the soldering iron heats up to a high temperature, there is a risk of burns when working with it. Topping your soldering shopping list should be good, thick gloves, preferably one with a heat-resistant coating.

The soldering iron kit should have interchangeable nozzles for pipes of different diameters. You can change the nozzle with a hex wrench.

On the side or top of the case is a toggle switch for adjusting the temperature. Any soldering iron comes with an instruction with a detailed description of the tool and all the manipulations that can be performed with it.

Instruction

In general terms, for a professional, pipe welding looks simple: heated, connected, fixed. The key word here is professional. For beginners and just homely owners, the procedure consists of more stages. And they are harder to do.

There are two ways of welding - butt and socket.

When two parts of the pipe are joined end-to-end, no additional parts are used. A pipe of a smaller diameter is inserted into a product of a larger diameter. This is a simple but not the most efficient way. Thus, it is difficult to connect rolled tubulars if they do not only go in a straight line.

The bell method is much more reliable. It involves connecting parts using fittings of various configurations. With the help of fittings, you can easily change the direction of the pipeline, make branches and complex water supply systems.

In both cases, welding or soldering is the joining of two heated parts. Due to the fact that the parts at both ends are soft and pliable for deformation, diffusion occurs (mutual penetration of materials). A strong connection is formed. According to its characteristics, the pipeline at the junction does not differ from the characteristics of the factory product made of propylene.

There are many models of soldering irons for PP pipes, but their structure is the same:

Frame. It has a stable bottom, stand and handle.
A heating element. The maximum heating temperature is 260 degrees. There is a protective cover on top.
Temperature regulator. May be mechanical or electronic. There are indicator lights.

A set of nozzles of different diameters. Part of the nozzles is designed for pipes, part - for fittings. The nozzles are teflon coated. It provides uniform heating of polypropylene parts and easy cleaning.

Types of soldering irons differ in the shape of the heating element or tip. Two types are popular: "iron" and "rod".

The rod soldering iron appeared earlier. Its sting is a cylinder several centimeters in diameter. The nozzle is fixed on the cylinder. On the one hand, it is adapted for heating the pipe, on the other hand, for fitting.

The fitting heats up from the inside. It is put on top of the nozzle. The pipe, in turn, is heated from the outside. It is inserted into the nozzle hole.

In the course of work from temperature influence fastening of nozzles on a core can "loose". They have to be twisted, so the soldering iron is less convenient than in the form of an iron.

The sting-iron is a vertical plate with three holes for installing nozzles. The thickness of the plate varies within a few centimeters. Its "nose" is pointed, and in general, the plate resembles the sole of an iron, located vertically. Hence the name of this type of sting.

On the one hand, nozzles for pipes are fixed, on the other - for fittings. In the process of soldering, they do not loosen up, which is much more convenient than that of the rod.

Also, the width from the edge of the left nozzle to the edge of the right nozzle is smaller than on a stick soldering iron, so it is more convenient for working in hard-to-reach places.

An important role is played by the number of nozzles with different diameters and the quality of their coating. The larger the range, the more types of pipes can be used in plumbing work.

In standard sets 3 or 4 nozzles. For domestic use of a soldering iron, this is enough. But for professional use in plumbing work, you need to buy a few more varieties.

Even when choosing a soldering iron, you need to consider the power of the tool. Choosing it according to the principle “the more powerful, the more effective” is wrong. Such a tool will only waste energy, and not improve the result of work.

There is a simple rule for choosing a soldering iron for specific needs. The diameter of the pipes (in millimeters) must be multiplied by 10 watts. The resulting number is the required power. When working with products of different diameters and polypropylene, you need to focus on the largest one.

The melting technology of PP pipes is not difficult. But there is a catch in working with them: it will not work right away to determine the quality of soldering. All oversights and leaky connections can be detected only during the operation of the pipeline. Therefore, it is important to study the nuances of work in advance and properly solder the piping system.

Detailed instructions for beginners:

Wipe the soldering iron tips with a clean, dry cloth.
Install the soldering iron on a special stand.
Install two nozzles of the desired diameter on the sting. Nozzles are not placed in a row, but one against the other. The pipe weighs more than the fitting, so the nozzle for it is installed from the side of the working hand. For right-handers - on the right side, for left-handers - on the left.
Connect the soldering iron to a 220 volt network. When connecting, it is important to ensure that the soldering iron cord does not touch the heating elements.
Set the welding machine to the maximum temperature - 260 degrees.

Wear heat-resistant gloves. All manufacturers of soldering irons for PP pipes indicate that, for safety reasons, touching the hot parts of the soldering iron with unprotected parts of the body is prohibited. Also, the soldering iron should not be accessible to children and animals.
Warm up plastic parts. In the process, it is important to monitor the safety of the connection angle.
Take out the hot propylene parts in turn, connect to each other.
Cool the soldering iron naturally. Do not cool it with water or cold air. From such manipulations, the product will fail before the warranty period.

Manufacturers do not indicate the universal heating time for different types of pipes. For thin-walled products of small diameter and thick-walled wide pipes, the temperature and time may differ.

Professional installers determine the degree of heating by experience and based on intuition. For beginners, the table that each manufacturer puts into the instructions helps. It takes into account the time of work with the pipe, depending on its diameter and the length of the connecting seam.

Tables from different manufacturers may vary.

The exact time is determined by the power of the soldering iron and its model.

Mounting

Soldering or welding of PP pipes is an integral part of the installation process. You can not first solder the entire plumbing system into one, and then freely install it in the allotted place. Some areas will still have to be soldered by weight. Therefore, soldering and installation go in parallel.

The work is being done in stages.

The first stage is organizational

The organization consists of two important activities: the selection of materials and the creation of a drawing.

Polypropylene pipes must correspond in their technical characteristics to the system in which they will operate. If this is a cold water supply system, you can stop at PN16 pipes. For hot, you need a minimum of PN20. In addition to the pipes themselves, you will need connecting fittings and holders (loops).

A drawing is a pipeline layout diagram. It should reflect all the elements, from the source of water supply to the objects of water consumption. It is important to indicate on the diagram all sections of the system that will be laid in the ground and indoors, at what depth they will be and at what height the water will be raised. Fasteners should be provided for every 40-50 cm. Also note the location of adapters, branches, couplings, taps, radiators.

The plumbing is mounted in two ways: open and closed. Open is easier for do-it-yourself installation. A beginner can handle it too. Closed is more laborious and complex. It is better to entrust it to specialists.

In addition to the fact that the drawing gives a visual representation of the location of the pipes, it helps to calculate the amount of materials.

Polypropylene is virtually a waste-free material. But no one is safe from mistakes when working with him for the first time, so you need to purchase material with a small margin. 5-10% will be enough.

Leftover pipes and fittings can always be used to make useful little things for the home, so this is not a waste of money.

The second stage is preparatory

To make installation quick and easy, you need to prepare the outdoor and indoor areas through which the pipeline will be laid.

If part of the pipes needs to be installed in the ground, then a trench is dug under them. So that they do not freeze in winter, you need to make a recess below the freezing level. As an additional protection, it is recommended to use a heater. They wrap PP pipes before immersing in the ground.

The best option for insulation is mineral wool or foil-based materials.

Inside the house, fasteners must be installed along the pipeline. Their location relative to the horizontal line and each other is determined using the building level. The laser device is best suited for this. You also need to punch holes in the walls with a puncher through which the pipeline will pass.

In the process of preparation, it is easy to identify hard-to-reach areas for installation. It is important to think in advance how best to mount pipes on these sections - use finished parts welded on the table, or do it by weight.

The temperature of the soldering iron is large enough to cause damage to any item in the immediate vicinity. Before installation work, you need to clear the path along which you have to move during installation, so as not to run into obstacles.

The third stage is the analysis of pipeline sections according to complexity

At this stage, you need to work on the diagram in order to bypass the entire installation path and note which elements of the pipeline can be mounted on the desktop, and which can only be welded on weight.

The resulting sections should be marked on the diagram. Some of them may be too short, so they can be combined. Some, on the contrary, may be too long. They need to be equipped with an additional wall mount or divided into several parts so that the pipe does not sag or stretch.

The fourth stage - cutting the pipe

Thin-walled products are well cut with scissors for PP-materials and pipe cutters. In rare cases, a jigsaw will do.

For thick-walled pipes with aluminum and foil reinforcement, stripping is required before cutting. A multifunctional trimmer or shaver can handle it.

If there were no special tools and the cut turned out to be uneven, it needs to be sanded. It is more efficient to use two types of sandpaper - first with a larger grain, then fine-grained.

When cutting pipes, it is important to consider that 15-30 mm of length will go to the connecting seam. They must be added to the length of the pipe, which is plotted on the pipeline diagram. If the connecting parts are located at both ends of the pipe, then add 15-30 mm each twice.

You can always cut off the excess, but you can’t add the missing few centimeters. In order not to be mistaken, you should not cut all the elements of the pipeline at once, including complex sections.

Pipe sections that will be heated with a soldering iron should be marked with a marker.

The end of the pipe must enter the nozzle up to the mark.

Fifth stage - welding (soldering) of parts on the desktop

As mentioned above, in practice, soldering pipes consists of more steps than heating and joining.

In order for the seam to turn out to be reliable, and the system to function correctly, you need to solder step by step:

Degrease the nozzles of the soldering iron, the inner surface of the fittings and the ends of the PP pipes. Alcohol can erase the markings made by the marker. If necessary, it can be updated by specifying the measurements on the ruler.
Install the soldering iron on the stand. It should be heat-resistant, and the work surface should be even and stable.
Wear heat-resistant gloves.
Fix nozzles of the appropriate size.
Connect the tool to the mains, set the temperature to 260 degrees.

The fitting is put on the nozzle, and the pipe is inserted into it. Thus, the inner side of the connecting element and the outer part of the pipe are heated. It is important to follow the recommendations for heating time (in seconds) given by the manufacturer. The larger the pipe diameter and the thicker the walls, the longer the time. Usually after 6-8 seconds it is already possible to solder (connect the parts together).
Connect heated parts. Insert the pipe into the fitting, hold for a few seconds to start the diffusion process, and then set aside until it cools completely.
Check connection. This can be done no earlier than 2 hours after welding. You can check the part for strength mechanically by moving the parts with your hands, or by passing water through them. If the pipe does not flow and the water flows well, the connection is successful.
Solder all the parts that can be connected on the table.

Sixth stage - laying the pipeline

In fact, this is the installation of all elements in the places allotted to them. To connect some of them, in the process you will have to weld the parts on weight. This is also done step by step, as on the work surface.

The seventh stage - checking the system

A few hours after welding, the parts seize and cool. The performance and reliability of the system is checked by running water through the pipes.

Common Mistakes

Beginners in plumbing and self-taught craftsmen who want to save on the services of professional installers often make the same mistakes. At first glance, these are trifles, but they lead to the fact that the system quickly fails.

What you should not do when installing PP pipes with your own hands:

Too fast. Welding PP pipes requires some efficiency. But this only applies to the speed of joining parts while they are still hot. Otherwise, haste has negative consequences. Most often, novice craftsmen simply do not allow the soldering iron to heat up to the desired temperature. As a result, the "adhesion" of the parts is poor.
Slow installers have another problem - they warm up the parts to the desired temperature, and then adjust for a long time before inserting the pipe into the fitting. During these few seconds, the temperature of the products drops, and with it the quality of diffusion decreases.

Rely on the temperature readings of the thermometer built into the soldering iron. If the equipment is old or from an unscrupulous manufacturer, the required 260-270 degrees on the display may appear due to a malfunction. The actual temperature of the nozzles is often below this parameter. For insurance, it must be checked with a contact thermometer. Such a device is inexpensive, and on the farm it is useful not only for working with a soldering iron.
Overheat propylene products. For beginners, it may seem that the longer you heat, the better the connection will turn out. In fact, this is not so. If you melt the plastic too much, then an influx forms in the pipe. It will prevent the free flow of fluid through the pipeline or completely clog the pipe section.

Weld pipes outdoors in cold weather. At low temperatures, the parts cool too quickly, as does the joint. They do not have time to securely grab.
Do not clean pipes and nozzles from dust and grease. It also negatively affects the quality of the connection.
Do not trim pipes with aluminum reinforcement. The melting temperature and time of aluminum and propylene are different. Although aluminum is an anti-corrosion material, it can cause pipes to leak.

Mount all elements of the pipeline at once on the floor (table, ground). Such a constructor can no longer be installed according to the scheme.
Use thin-walled pipes for hot piping. They will not withstand high temperatures, stretch and eventually burst.
Cut pipes with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw without subsequent cleaning of the cut with an emery cloth.
Try to speed up the process of cooling the pipe with cold water or air.

It’s not enough not to make mistakes, you also need to take into account the welding tricks that professional installers have developed over the years. Conventionally, they can be divided into "life hacks" for choosing materials and tools, and useful tips for work.

How to choose pipes:

Make it a rule that thin-walled pipes can only be used for cold water and decorative items. To work with hot water, you should choose only reinforced thick-walled ones. For ventilation, pipes marked with PHP are needed.
Products with fiberglass as a reinforcing layer are universal. They are suitable for beginners who are just learning how to use a soldering iron and last up to 50 years. You should not be led by consultants' stories about the best quality of aluminum pipes.

The appearance of the pipes can also say a lot. If the product has a uniform color, an even round cut and smooth walls inside and out, it is of high quality. If the coloring is spotted, the cut is not round, and the walls are rough, the product will fail during operation.
The tube needs to be sniffed. Only pipes made from low-grade raw materials have a characteristic pungent smell of plastic. The product made of high-quality propylene almost does not smell.
The pipe must enter the fitting tightly and only when it is hot. If there is a gap between the walls of at least a millimeter, this is a marriage.
All components must be purchased from the same manufacturer.

There are many more tricks of welding and installation. They come with experience, and each master has his own techniques. But there are some general tips.

So, every master knows that soldering iron nozzles are processed with a special solution in production. It protects the tool from negative environmental influences before use. The protective layer evaporates when you first turn on the soldering iron with nozzles. Evaporation produces a characteristic odor and light soot. Therefore, you need to run the device on the street for the first time and let it warm up until it completely evaporates. Only then start soldering.

The second secret concerns the treatment of pipes and a soldering iron with a degreaser. It is better to choose pure alcohol. It evaporates quickly and leaves no odor inside the pipes, unlike acetone and thinner.

If the ambient temperature is close to zero, it is necessary to slow down the cooling of the joint. To do this, use napkins made of warm fabric.

Wipe the parts with a lint-free cloth. Inside the soldering iron nozzle, it will smolder.

For a double pipe circuit (hot water and cold), it is preferable to place the hot circuit above the cold one. This will prevent condensation from forming on the pipes. It is possible to connect parts at the transition points from horizontal to vertical only at an angle of 90 degrees.

Now, when installing water pipes and heating, polypropylene pipes are increasingly used instead of metal, which are superior to metal in many parameters. Learning how to properly dock plastic pipelines into a single system is a skill that is useful to any person. This also applies to the laying of new lines, and the repair of existing highways. When soldering polypropylene pipes, the instruction obliges the master to study all the details of the process, to know the device and principle of operation of the apparatus for soldering polypropylene pipes, and also to take into account the recommended heating time of the connected elements.

Materials and tools that you need to prepare for work:

Polypropylene pipes. To install cold water supply, it is enough to use simple thick-walled products that can withstand temperatures up to 20 degrees. If the water supply is hot, or a heating system is being installed, then pipelines reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum foil are taken. They are able to withstand water heating up to 90-95 degrees and increased water pressure.
Connecting fittings of various shapes and purposes. With their help, pipe sections are connected at different angles, wiring and turning of highways are provided, the combination of pipelines of different diameters, the connection of metering devices, and the muffling of certain sections.
Soldering iron for plastic pipes with a set of nozzles for soldering different diameters.
Special scissors designed for cutting pipes. Unlike a grinder or a hacksaw, they do not leave burrs on the ends of the pipes.
Shaver. This is a tool for removing the aluminum reinforcing layer. Without removing it, soldering will be impossible.

Tip: If you have to do a one-time job of soldering a polypropylene pipeline, then it will be more profitable to rent a device with nozzles for a couple of days than to buy it.

Soldering step by step instructions

First of all, a diagram is drawn up, which indicates the location of all future pipelines, fittings, turns and entrances to the walls. Also, segments of polypropylene pipes are pre-cut according to the calculated values. The chamfer is removed from the outside of all pipes. The nozzles of the welding machine and the pipe sections to be connected are degreased. It is recommended to make marks on the surface of all pipes, through which it will be convenient to control the depth of their entry into the soldering iron.

The technology for soldering polypropylene pipes determines the following sequence of actions for the master:

The photo shows the process of connecting polypropylene pipes

Tip: If there are traces of polypropylene on the surface of the nozzles, heat up the soldering iron, and then remove them with a regular rag.

Features of soldering reinforced pipes

We figured out the technology of connecting thick-walled pipes made of polypropylene. Now let's see how to properly solder polypropylene pipes for heating. The difference in soldering reinforced pipes from ordinary pipes is that it is necessary to remove aluminum foil from each section of the connected segment. Otherwise, the soldering quality will be unsatisfactory. This operation is performed using a metal shaver that cuts off the foil layer if it is located outside the pipe. After that, soldering is performed by the standard method.

If the foil layer is inside polypropylene, then a special trimmer is used. He selects the inner layer of material from the end of the pipe and aligns the end of the product, providing a reliable connection.

If the pipe is reinforced with fiberglass, then its soldering is no different from working with products that do not have reinforcement.

Recommendations for performing high-quality soldering of polypropylene

In the process of performing work, consider the following features of the process:

high-quality soldering is possible only on dry pipes. The presence of moisture drops can hopelessly ruin the connection;
nozzles on the device must be fixed very tightly. If they hang out, then the apparatus will very soon become unusable;
when heated, polypropylene shrinks slightly, due to which the length of the pipe segment may decrease by 1 mm. Therefore, when calculating, make a small margin of the pipeline along the length;
pipelines are best connected in a horizontal position. In this way, unintentional shifts of the connected components can be avoided. And how to solder polypropylene pipes in a vertical position? If such a need arose, then the master holds the soldering iron, and his assistant connects the elements;
do not overheat the soldering iron, as already at a temperature of 270 degrees polypropylene may begin to break down;
if it is necessary to join together polypropylene and metal pipes, then use combined fittings. A metal pipe is attached to one end of such a fitting, and its other end is joined to a polypropylene pipe by soldering;
in the room where work is being done on laying a polypropylene pipeline, a positive temperature must be maintained.

It is very important to choose the right tool for soldering polypropylene pipes. The less plastic inserts and parts in the device, the more reliable it will be. The presence of a high-quality thermostat in the device will allow you to more firmly connect the elements to each other. The power of the soldering iron is also important. For home soldering of pipes of small diameter, 700 W will be enough, and for professional use, choose more power.

Soldering iron tips are usually Teflon coated. To protect it from scratches, store the device with attachments only in a special box.

We hope you are convinced that having instructions for soldering polypropylene pipes with your own hands is a completely doable job even for an inexperienced craftsman in such matters. The main success factors are accuracy and precision, as well as the use of high-quality tools and components.

Read about how to choose in a separate article.

About the types of polypropylene fittings we.

Do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes video

How to solder polypropylene pipes video tutorial will show clearly.

On the network you can find a lot of video tutorials on the installation of polypropylene.

How to solder polypropylene pipes - the video will show in general terms, however, a number of subtleties and nuances are better described in words. What are we going to do now.

A few common words

If you are looking for instructions on how to solder polypropylene pipes correctly, you have probably already decided on the material, and it makes no sense to focus on its great merits.

However, some general information about is necessary so that the behavior of the pipes at any given moment does not come as a surprise to you.

Heat resistance

Polypropylene begins to lose hardness and shape starting at 140 degrees Celsius.

However, manufacturers usually list a much more modest number of 95 C as the maximum operating temperature for their pipes and fittings.

We will not pay much attention to the reasons for such caution - they have already been discussed in many articles; let's just say that it is really not worth using polypropylene in the supply pipelines of heating mains.

If you live in the Far North and steam often comes out of the hot water tap in winter, it would be a good idea to give up in favor of galvanized or copper.

Thermal elongation

Polypropylene greatly changes its linear dimensions when heated. On a long straight section, the pipe, heating up, goes in waves or sags. If a thick polypropylene heating riser is mounted from ceiling to ceiling and is limited by thick fittings, the resulting stresses can lead to serious trouble.

A person who does not know how to properly solder polypropylene pipes will be at a dead end.

The professional uses one of two solutions:

Instead of simple polypropylene pipes, you can use reinforced. Reinforced polypropylene has a five times lower coefficient of thermal elongation. At the same time, reinforced pipes are able to withstand slightly more pressure.
It is possible to use compensators - U-shaped bends of a straight pipe section. Elastic polypropylene, lengthening, remains straight due to the fact that the legs of the impromptu letter "P" are slightly closer 🙂

Tip: in the case of heating systems, it is a good idea to combine both methods. Reinforced pipe does not have thermal expansion, it is simply smaller.

Reinforcement

How to properly solder polypropylene pipes is affected by the presence or absence of the notorious reinforcing layer on the pipe.

Fiberglass reinforced pipe, is no different in terms of installation from an unreinforced pipe;
Pipe with aluminum reinforcing layer must be cleaned before soldering. For this, a special tool is used - a shaver.
For pipes with a reinforcing layer not outside, but between the layers of polypropylene, a special one is used - a trimmer, in which a narrow knife is located, respectively, from the side of the end.

Reinforced pipes are preferable if you are going to install a plumbing for hot water or a heating system. In the case of cold water, reinforcement affects only one factor - the cost of the water supply.

For hot water and heating, reinforcement is a definite plus

Tool

How to solder polypropylene pipes? For this, a special soldering iron is used. Its correct name will surprise Captain Evidence himself: "soldering iron for polypropylene pipes." This tool is sold at any hardware store; younger models with a minimum configuration cost from 400-500 rubles.

The simplest soldering irons have a heating element power of about 800 watts. For soldering home plumbing, this power is sufficient in excess.

In general, the power of the soldering iron only affects the rate of its heating to the temperature we need; It does not affect the soldering process itself.

Typical inexpensive soldering irons come with nozzles for pipes with a diameter of 20, 25 and 32 mm. This is enough when installing any internal pipeline in your apartment.

Most of the repair budget is better to invest in high-quality fittings and polypropylene pipes - than soldering, it's not so important. The word written on the soldering iron does not affect the quality of the connection.

Even if you have no idea how to solder polypropylene pipes, you will still find most of the rest of the necessary tools at home.

In addition to the soldering iron itself, at a minimum you will need:

Roulette. It is not very convenient to measure the necessary sections without it;
Pencil. You will also need something to mark the required length on the pipe;
Hacksaw for metal. In the absence of special scissors, it is easy for her to cut off the desired section of the pipe. Suitable, however, and the impeller with any cutting stone;
sharp knife. It is desirable to chamfer the pipe during installation.

In addition, pipe cutters for polypropylene will be a very convenient addition. They will allow you to cut the pipe perfectly evenly and strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to its axis with one movement. This will save you a fair amount of time; however, if there are no such scissors, there is no need for tears 🙂

Tip: when you pay a visit to the store for a soldering iron, take a closer look at the equipment. Many manufacturers include a pipe cutter as a bonus. In the same place, you can sometimes find a tape measure with a pencil.

Finally, if you purchased aluminum-reinforced polypropylene pipes - how to solder them without stripping? A simple shaver will not ruin you, but it’s definitely not worth buying an expensive one for a one-time repair. Most of its high cost is due to wear resistance and a large resource. In our case, these qualities will simply remain unclaimed.

Mystery of soldering

So, how to solder polypropylene pipes correctly?

We measure and cut the desired section of the pipe. Do not forget to add those 14-25 millimeters that will remain fused into the fitting;
We install the desired nozzle in the soldering iron and turn on the heat. It takes several minutes; it is the duration of this phase that depends on the power of the soldering iron;

Tip: they often ask at what temperature to solder polypropylene pipes.

The most primitive soldering irons are designed only for polypropylene and simply do not allow you to adjust the temperature; on universal ones, which can also solder more fusible polyethylene, you must manually set 260 - 280 C.

We remove the chamfer from the outside of the pipe. We clean the aluminum reinforcement with a shaver.
A pipe with an outer layer of aluminum just needs to be inserted into the stripping and make a couple of turns; in the case of an internal reinforcing layer, it will be necessary to press the trimming tool against the end of the pipe with some force and turn it.
We insert the pipe into the nozzle from the wide side, put the fitting on the narrow one. In the case of a thick-walled fitting, it will take a little longer to warm up; you can give him a little head start.
As soon as the surfaces have melted, we insert the pipe into the fitting and hold it motionless for ten seconds. The connection is ready.

The process itself - how to solder polypropylene pipes - videos, which are full on the network, will be shown in detail.

There are, however, some useful tips that can help a beginner.

Be sure to remove the chamfer from the pipe. If it is not removed from the inside of the fitting, remove it there as well. Otherwise, you run the risk of pulling up the softened plastic by inserting the pipe into the fitting.
The connection can leak and in any case become much less durable.
When inserting a pipe into a fitting - in no case turn it. Surfaces will gather in waves with the same deplorable result for the strength of the connection.

Insert both the fitting and the pipe into the nozzle until it stops. The end of the pipe must also be welded to the fitting. This is especially important for pipes with internal aluminum reinforcement.
Do not try to clean the Teflon-coated nozzle from plastic residue with something metallic.. It is better to wipe it with a coarse cloth while the soldering iron is on. Don't get burned!

Conclusion

That's all about polypropylene pipes - how to solder, how to solder and at what temperature. Good luck with the repair!