Homemade circular for 220v how to make. Electric motor for circular saw. Base for mini circular

A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks at home. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine are suitable here. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of such, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from the old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Hand held angle grinder

If there is a “grinder” on the farm, then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected on the front and back sides with a cross ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for the sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow high-quality cutting, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to eliminate the deflection of the handle during the operation of the hand-assembled circular. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is regulated by washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it will connect to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, the second one. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this fixture for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Miniature Tabletop Circular Machine

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing a horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which, after installation, are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame on the clamp. A table from a hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, a more serious home-made circular machine will be required, which will be discussed later.

Stationary machine

Circular machine, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a desktop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the bed, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or pantry, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary home-made circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and fixtures for a circular saw of this type.

As can be seen from the figure, home-made circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings similar to the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular, as well as mount a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.

Circular table

A table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from bars or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering the table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating, the base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. The cross ties that reinforce the saw table are best made from a 60 - 80 mm steel angle with the horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A home-made table on which a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a fixed position.

saw blade

The toothed disc should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not saw the wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar cutter parameter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine with a power of 1 kW or more is also required here. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is hardly suitable. On some factory circular machines, a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of the parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a home-made circular is assembled.

Side stop adjustable

It is possible to put a high-quality emphasis from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with the help of bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft mounted on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in its turning and testing as an assembly with a disk. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The best solution would be to purchase a finished shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings with a curved inner surface, otherwise the self-made assembly will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case, a V-belt drive would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disc, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen based on the engine speed, always taking into account the allowable number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation, and the cleaner the reworked unit will cut.

Motor

Among home-made devices, the most popular is a circular assembled from an engine from a washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that its operation scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so prone to all sorts of clogging. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and running capacitor, so it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, and all the wisdom.

A circular saw is a specialized piece of equipment that is used for sawing wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary type sawing machine can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will be.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large amounts of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is shown in the diagram below. It also indicates basic installation dimensions, from which it is recommended to build on self-assembly.

In the drawing, the following structural elements of home-made equipment correspond to the numbers:

1 - frame (bed);
2 - side panel;
3 - starting device;
4 - mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 - its stops;
5, 6 and 7 - two halves of the sawing table with a base;
8 - electric motor;
9 - platform for installing the motor;
10 - studs (M10);
11 - saw;
12 - shaft;
14 and 16 - driven and driving pulleys, respectively;
15 - belt;
17 - switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a prominent place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to fix the drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot in the table for it of the appropriate size. This will expand the functionality of the created installation: planing lumber on it, chamfering and choosing a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations on home-made equipment, then it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with multiple guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, you should also provide for the possibility of regulating the speed of the electric motor and quickly replacing disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and details

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, it is necessary to select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to build on old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for the manufacture of a bed with a table

For the manufacture of the frame (frame), you can use channel or metal corners(enough size from 25x25mm to 50x50mm). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. Water pipes or profile pipes made of metal will go to the legs of the machine.

Advice! The frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because the bolted connections are untwisted under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also required to weld spacers at the corners to stiffen the structure. To facilitate the movement of the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a circular table are: resistance to mechanical stress (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties are characterized by sheets of the following materials:

become;
duralumin;
silumin;
textolite;
moisture resistant plywood;
organic glass.

If use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be upholstered with zinc-coated tin. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration effects.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or is skewed due to deflection, the disc may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, spreading logs on boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as the guide rail for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures smooth sawing of lumber. At the same time, its use allows obtaining blanks of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed with clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Choice of engine and starting equipment

As a drive for the considered version of a home-made circular machine, it is easiest to use single-phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

if it is 350 mm, then for the normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
for a disc with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is enough.

In the latter case, it is possible to make a drive mechanism from an engine from a washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be fixed rigidly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibrations by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly fluctuate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install a working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors in the electrical circuit. It should also be borne in mind that the engine power in this case will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk is jammed. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine from a convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires are not shorted to the frame of a homemade circular saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest is to cover the unit with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Transmission, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. Gears are not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear transmission, due to its rigidity, can cause the entire drive unit to fail.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, then it will be possible to change the speed of the disk and install various types of it on the machine. This is true in the absence of a motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing it is better to entrust a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Especially when it is planned to make the circular saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a planer. But the easiest option is to buy a finished factory-made part. Her sample is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular machine it is easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is balancing. The imbalance of the saw during the operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If there is a circular saw for wood, then you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the blade matches the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber being cut: for example, for 100 mm logs, you will need to use a saw with a size of approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement leads not only to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of the woodworking machine according to the previously given drawing is performed in the following sequence:

from the corners make a rectangular frame;
four legs are welded to it at the corners of the desired height;
at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a harness from the corners;
a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
a driven pulley is fixed on one side of it, and a disk on the other;
a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
on the lower frame, a platform is made of corners or sheet metal for an electric motor;
a drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
put the belt on the pulleys;
on the side panel of the unit, on and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted;
using wires of a suitable section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
supply power to the machine from a fixed network.

The final step is checking the performance of the assembled equipment. To begin with, it is worth making sure that all moving parts rotate freely: for this, just twist the drive pulley by hand. Then you can run the unit in test mode. If a strong vibration is detected, then it will be necessary to check the reliability of the bolted connections and the fixation of the disk.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or one piece. In the latter case, it will need to cut a rectangular slot for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. Also in this video, the device of the lifting mechanism for these parts is demonstrated.

Important! To prevent the saw from jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be positioned at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To adjust the belt tension, the motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is to create larger slots than are required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes must be carried out in the direction of the belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you will need to make a more complex belt tension mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor with the help of studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing, these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, the need to mount a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter) is eliminated. But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also recommended to install a residual current device or a differential circuit breaker in the shield. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to a breakdown in wire insulation. Components for the electrical part of the circular machine are best chosen so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment nodes will help to replace failed parts without any problems.

A working motor from an automatic washing machine should not gather dust in the garage. Even a home master can find a use for it. We will tell you how to make a homemade circular from a washing machine engine.

Such a tool will help to cut firewood, master carpentry. However, be careful: careless use of a homemade machine can lead to unpleasant consequences. Therefore, before taking on a job, you must be completely confident in your abilities.

Which engine to choose to make a circular

The choice of engine for creating a mini-circular depends on its power. It is advisable to use an engine with a V-belt, which will allow you to transfer its speed to the saw blade of the machine.

A 350 mm disk will require 1 kW of power to run. A disc with a diameter of 170 mm will require about 500 watts. Therefore, you can put the motor from the old washer.

It is important to regulate the number of revolutions of the motor, otherwise instability in operation will cause the disc to tear the material.

In the washing machine, the speed is controlled by a tacho sensor, which controls the control module. But it is impossible to connect the module to the circular, so install a voltage regulator. Use the wiring diagram for correct motor installation.

Do-it-yourself circular with a washing machine engine

You figured out which engine is needed and how to connect it. Now consider the design diagram of the circular saw.

For home-made circulars, the absence of a bearing assembly is allowed, which will greatly simplify the design.

The main load will be on moving elements. This:

saw shaft and electric motor;
motor pulley and saw shaft;
drive belt.

Consider the features of each of them:

The drive belt does not have to be taken from the washing machine, other belts can be used. The main thing is that they have notches, like a V-belt.
On the small pulley, you need to make flow grooves. The belt will cling to them during operation, which will avoid slippage.
A larger disc is welded onto the large pulley, which will prevent the belt from slipping off.
To fasten the saw blade, use the shaft where it is mounted, as well as the washer and nut with which it is fixed. It is recommended to pick up or take this kit from the factory installation so that the drive is as secure as possible.

When creating a design, you need to consider that it is designed for a three hundredth disk. Of course, a do-it-yourself circular machine is only suitable for domestic use. Therefore, try not to overload the engine.

Electrical preparation

To start the saw, you can install a starting device. If thermal protection is provided for overcurrent, then when jammed, the circuit breaker will turn off automatically. The button from the door lock will do.

Often such machines are stored in the yard, on the street, so protect the electrical part from moisture.

Frame and bed manufacturing

The bed is made of a metal sheet 3 mm thick. Before you make a frame, prepare a 30 mm metal corner.

As shown in the photo above, the master installed the frame in homemade pipe racks. Now it is possible to adjust the height of the device. However, it is recommended to make a solid frame by welding pieces of the corner together. Strong vibration loosens bolts and other elements over time.

When making a circular, consider the possibility of its repair. All moving parts must be easily lubricated. Before starting work, it is desirable to prepare detailed drawings.

Please note that the mini circular saw differs in size. It is much smaller than usual and can be stored in the pantry.

How the device works

The engine is started, which drives the shaft with the pulley. As a result, the drive belt rotates, transferring speed to the saw blade pulley. The saw begins to rotate, allowing you to cut the material.

A homemade circular machine is always useful in the household. Due to the fact that you can make it from improvised means, it will cost you almost free.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - the main nodes, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

adaptation of an existing hand tool, using an engine and a circular saw for new opportunities;
improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suited. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

The characteristics of the saw blade, the engine and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the dimensions to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.

At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

loosen the nuts on the racks;
turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
tighten the stud nuts;
perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the countertop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.

We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of home-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.

On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect to install a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

A home-made circular saw is a household item that is not so rare and, of course, useful. You can make it, having only the initial skills of working with metal, a table adapted for a workbench and accuracy.

A do-it-yourself circular saw makes sense if you already have some kind of backlog on materials: pieces of a steel corner, a shaped rectangular pipe and, especially, an engine. Or an angle drill ("Bulgarian"). You can look at the motor used on the "iron" market, where they are not uncommon.

Manual version from the grinder

A do-it-yourself hand-held circular saw is easiest to get if there is already a grinder on the farm. It is enough to make just two simple improvements: a sliding stop and an axial handle.

Sliding stop - two pieces of a small metal corner located on both sides of the working body: a disk with teeth installed instead of an abrasive wheel. The gap is 3-4 mm on each side. The horizontal edges of the corners must be rounded at the bottom so that they do not cling to the workpiece. The corners need to be connected with transverse ties in front and behind. Bolts with nuts are suitable for this, and a package of washers will give the required clearance.

On the body of the grinder we put on a clamp made of metal tape; the screw tie of the clamp is located at the bottom. A double-folded strip of tin or galvanized steel with a hole for the rear bolt of the sliding stop is rigidly attached to it. Thus, the emphasis is fixed at the back. It is possible to make a clamp with a rear stop stand as one piece, but the thickness of the metal strip must be at least 1 - 1.5 mm. By shifting the washers providing the gap, they achieve the same gaps between the working body and the sidewalls of the stop.

In the gearbox housing of the grinder, we make two to four threaded holes for small bolts (M3 - M5). The gearbox must first be disassembled and determined by the place where it can be drilled. These holes are needed to attach a homemade axial handle. When using the regular side handle of the angle grinder, it will be difficult to make an even cut even for a physically strong man with stable labor skills.

The axial handle is made of a metal tube or rod in the form of a horn pointing upwards forward or a transverse bracket the width of a palm with some margin. We DO NOT spill the ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox and drill holes for the mounting bolts in them. If the mounting ends are splashed, the handle will bend from effort during operation.

If the handle is in the form of a horn, we splash its far end in a horizontal plane and drill a hole in it for the axis of 4-6 mm with a margin, i.e. 6-10 mm. If the handle is a bracket, under it, in the same holes in the gearbox, we fasten a piece of a bar or tube protruding forward, and splash its end and drill a hole in it, as indicated above. Of course, between the bar and the bracket there should be a distance sufficient for the convenience of work - 100-150 mm.

Now we take a piece of steel bar 4-6 mm. This will be the adjustment bar. We bend one end of it in the form of a loop, slightly splash it and drill a hole under the front stop bolt. By selecting washers at the front end of the stop, we achieve a uniform gap width along its entire length. With a 6 mm rod, you will most likely only need two thin washers, one on each side.

On the "tail" of the rod we cut the thread. The threaded "tail" will fit into the hole on the handle described in the previous paragraph. One nut is screwed onto it in advance, and after assembly, the second. By loosening and tightening the nuts alternately, you can adjust the depth of cut. Everything, the manual circular saw is ready to work.

Table saw

It is easy to turn the manual one described above into such a one by making a frame in the form of the letter “P” from a round pipe or bar 14-20 mm with a swing arm on the crossbar. The lower ends of the bed are bent along the cutting direction to horizontal and are attached to the table with bolts or self-tapping screws. For stability, you can make additional struts.

A swinging lever made of a pipe welded in the form of the letter “T” is put on a horizontal cross member. Its transverse part (horizontal stick "T") is cut in half lengthwise, and after putting it on, it is fastened with clamps. To the end of the vertical part "T", the hand saw described above is also pulled with a clamp.

Such a device can also be used as a cutting machine by installing a regular cutting wheel in the grinder, but the thickness of the through cut will not exceed 60-80 mm, depending on the diameter of the working body. To process "thick" lumber (timber, round timber), you need a "real" circular saw.

"Real" stationary circular

Do-it-yourself table circular saw - the design is quite serious and you need to take it up, having thought everything through. Actually, stationary and desktop circulars are one and the same; the difference comes down to the height of the bed. To do this or that depends simply on the nature of the workplace: its intensity of use and area. For occasional work, you need a table saw that is not very heavy, mainly stored in a barn; It is more convenient for a master who constantly works with wood to have a stationary one.

Design

The design of the circular saw is quite well known and is clear from the figure. It is only necessary to give some explanations regarding various subtleties. Let's start at the top.

Table. It must be covered with a sheet of tin or galvanized. Wood on wood or plastic is sure to be rubbed, a wide shallow hole forms in the middle of the table. The cut will “play”, but it will not work to make a blind cut of uniform depth.

The cross-links of the table are best made from a steel corner of 60-80 mm with a horizontal shelf outward. So it will be easier and easier to make a side limiter.

Working body (toothed disk) and motor. It should not protrude more than 1/3 of the diameter above the table surface, otherwise the saw will cut badly and turn out to be very dangerous. Therefore, if you need to cut a beam of 100 mm, the diameter of the disc is needed at least 350 mm. But to drive such a disk, you need a motor of at least 1 kW; for a 170 mm disc - 400 W (0.4 kW). You need to immediately compare the power of the available or affordable engine with your needs. For lumber 150 mm or more, making a circular saw yourself is quite problematic.

Adjustable side stop. A good stop is obtained from a piece of even steel corner 60-80 mm 300-400 mm longer than the table. One of the shelves, which will then be vertical, is cut off equally on each side so that the remainder is equal to the length of the table. Flat "tails" bend down in the form of a horizontally located letter "U" with a width equal to the thickness of the table plus 10-15 mm. In the lower shelves "U" we drill holes for the M8 - M10 thread and cut it. We put the emphasis on the table and fix it in the desired position with bolts. Exactly set the stop-limiter according to the template laid between it and the saw blade.

Shaft. This is the most responsible node. The shaft must be sharpened in one setting and assembled with the working body to check in the centers. The slightest beat during operation will intensify and the saw will go haywire. A shaft from a finished pipe with a disc somehow fixed is unacceptable. The best option is a finished shaft with a seat for the disk. It can also be seen on the "iron" market.

Bearings it is better to use ball self-aligning. They have two rows of balls, and the inner surface of the clip in the section has a curvilinear shape. Any others in a homemade saw will quickly “break”. Pins with bearings must be made with covers that protect against sawdust and dust.

Broadcast. The best option is V-belt. Rigid (gear) is dangerous. If a nail is caught in the wood, then due to the inertia of the massive rotor of the engine, the disk can fly apart. If one or both belt pulleys are made with a minimum inner diameter (4-5 belt thicknesses), then slippage will occur, and the elastic belt will play the role of a damper. The flat belt is not as reliable; their range is limited.

We select the gear ratio, knowing the engine speed and the maximum allowable speed of the disk. It is indicated either on the disc itself or on the packaging. If the disk is second-hand, we set the translational speed on its circumference of 70 m / s (any disk can withstand this with a margin) and calculate the allowable revolutions from the diameter of the disk. A 400 mm disc at 300-500 rpm will cut well and will be quite reliable. For smaller diameters, higher speeds are acceptable.

Engine. The best option is asynchronous single-phase from an old washing machine. Such as purposely made for a homemade circular. Collectors from power tools are of little use: they give too high speed, are not designed for long-term operation, have low efficiency and are sensitive to clogging.

A three-phase motor of suitable power can be used, but you will have to fork out for starting and running capacitors with fittings. Capacitors - ONLY paper and oil-paper (BM, MBM, MBGO, MBGP, etc.) Any others will not withstand the reactive power circulating in the circuit. Working capacitance Cp - 100 μF / kW; starting Sp - twice as much. If, say, a 600 W motor is used, then Cp \u003d 60 microfarads; Cn = 120 uF. Operating voltage - not less than 600 V. Starting device SB - self-returning button. In no case do not use a toggle switch or a button with fixation! If you forget to turn it off, the engine may fail, and a fire may occur from a prolonged extra current in the wiring.