Brick ovens for wood-fired cottages. Do-it-yourself oven for a brick house: the masonry process and photos of ovens. Basic requirements for a pipe device

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove can create, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, due to which the optimum humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arranging the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Construction of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional place of rest. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

rapid heating of the surface;
the possibility of using several types of fuel;
low operating costs;
the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
especially soft, comfortable warmth;
the air in the room is not dehydrated;
ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which appears during improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

heating devices;
cooking units;
combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

Dutch stoves. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.
The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure
Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.
The Swedish stove will please its owner with high efficiency and functionality.
have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.
The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.
Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.
Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

House intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then there is no better option than "Swede" or "cap". In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. Fireplace stoves with an open hearth are ideal, as they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
A stove in a country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power taken from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require much draft, so a rectangle is the best shape for the smoke channel. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of \u200b\u200bits flue, while all values \u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material needed, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

selection of tools and necessary materials;
determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
Panicle for mopping laid rows.
Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
Pliers.
Rubber hammer (mallet).
Trowel (trowel).
Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
Lead scribbler.
Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
Stitching.
Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
Sieve.
Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
Grate.
Wire for fixing cast iron.
Asbestos or basalt cord.
Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

Sand.
Rubble.
Reinforcement mesh.
Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
Cement.
Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location is able to solve the problem of heating all the premises of a country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof, there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the place where the furnace is installed, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a foundation pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle lane, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the building.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.
Installing a blower door
Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.
The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.
In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.
In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick
Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.
Furnace door installation
Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

Laying vertical channels
Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.
For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place
In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.
The firebox is separated from the outer walls with basalt cardboard or other refractory material.
From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.
Installation of furnace valves
From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Features of mounting the oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If it is planned to use the hob and the water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into the side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, smoke powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. From the infrastructure it is good if there are paved roads and power lines. In such conditions, the construction of a brick oven for wood-fired cottages will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for space heating and cooking.

We have selected for you schemes and arrangements of the simplest furnace structures, which a novice master can handle with laying. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of the difficult, but extremely interesting activity of the stove-maker. An impeccably built structure will delight both the owner and the household.

In addition to a detailed description of the technology of laying brick stoves, we provide valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. Significant subtleties and the smallest nuances are scrupulously spelled out in the article. To help independent stove builders, schemes of stove structures, orderly briefing, photo and video guides are attached.

Competent selection of material for a structure subjected to high-temperature exposure is an important part of the work of a trained stove-maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from simple conditions, while it should not malfunction, crack and collapse.

Option # 1 - a stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, as if elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, a cast-iron variety is quite suitable.

The stove has long symbolized the hearth, which gathers around itself our loved ones and relatives. Do-it-yourself wood-fired oven for your home, which will have all the necessary qualities: good warm-up, structural strength and ease of use.

It is better to make your own foundation for the furnace, this is a rather massive structure and its operation takes place in special conditions. If the strength of the floor allows, then it can be installed on it, but at the same time, all additional loads must be taken into account in the calculation of the floors.

The foundation for the furnace can be:

from monolithic concrete;
reinforced concrete slab;
from short concrete blocks;
laying of ordinary clay solid bricks;
rubble masonry.

It all depends on the availability of the material.

Important! You can not use silicate brick or block for the foundation. In a humid environment, this material loses its strength.

The depth of laying is taken from the conditions of the natural properties of the soil, its bearing capacity. If during the cold period of time the building has breaks in heating, then it is better to lay the foundation below the freezing depth of the soil. For example, for loams - this is 1.6 m, for sands - 1.8 m for central Russia. In heated buildings, throughout the cold season, the depth of the base of the foundation is taken below the level of the ground level at the outer wall of the house by at least 500 mm.

The foundation for the oven. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel preparation.4. The foundation of the house. 5. Furnace foundation. 6. Sand between foundations as a thermal decoupling. 7. Waterproofing. 8. Furnace base

If the furnace is installed against a wall, then the foundation of the furnace is erected at a distance of more than 5 cm from the foundation of the wall. The gap is filled with compacted sand. The dimensions of the foundation for the furnace are taken larger than the dimensions of the furnace itself by 100 mm around the perimeter. Under the sole of the foundation, a sand and gravel compacted pillow of 15 cm is made. The thickness of the pillow is included in the depth of the foundation.

Important! When excavating the earth, it is impossible to dig the soil at the base of the foundation of the wall, which is located nearby. This may weaken its bearing capacity.

The laying of the furnace array begins at a mark below the finished floor by 15 cm. Before this, the foundation is covered with 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing material).

Consumption of materials and oven appliances

To build an oven array, you will need:

Clay brick solid ordinary GOST 390-96 - 300 pcs.
Clay of medium fat content (sand content 15%) - 5 buckets.
Cement M300-400 - 100 kg.
Sand for mortar - 8 buckets.
Grate grate 180x250 mm - 1 pc.
Furnace door 205x205 mm - 1 pc.
Blower door - 1 pc.
Cast iron two-burner stove - 1 pc.
Oven 240x300x350 mm - 1 pc.
Smoke damper 130x240 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel sheet 120x400x5 mm - 1 pc.
Steel sheet 150-300x2 mm - 1 pc.
Steel corner 50x50x5 mm - 3.5 m.
Steel tube Ø 30x3 mm - 0.5 m.
Duralumin corner 20x20x1 mm - 3.5 m.

Chamotte brick is a heat-resistant material specially designed for laying a furnace

1. Oven. 2. Inflatable door. 3. Furnace door. 4. damper

Furnace tools

1. Hammer. 2. Furnace hammer. 3. Rubber hammer. 4. Chisel. 5. Pliers. 6. Trapezoidal trowel. 7. Trowel. 8. Building corner. 9. Bubble level. 10. Bucket for solution. 11. Brush. 12. Roulette

Features of masonry stoves

It is important when bricklaying furnaces to observe the verticality and horizontality of the seams, channels and surfaces of the furnace. Mandatory dressing of the rows will ensure the joint operation of the entire furnace structure.

The width of horizontal joints should not exceed 5 mm, and vertical - 3 mm. It is very important to fill the seams with mortar completely. All internal surfaces of the oven are mopped with a wet cloth.

Each row of the furnace according to the materials is selected in advance without a solution. Furnace appliances (frames, doors) are fastened with steel wire or steel strip paws.

All metal parts of the furnace, due to different thermal conductivity with bricks, are laid with a gap, which is filled with asbestos cord. For fire safety purposes, the grate is installed 7-14 cm below the opening of the furnace with a gap of 5 mm filled with ash or sand. The area of the grate openings must be more than ¼ of the furnace area. All furnace devices are installed during the laying of the furnace.

Furnace masonry work involves the use of a clay-sand mortar, or a solution from a ready-made refractory mixture. Clay-sand solution is prepared in advance, about a day. The proportions of clay / sand are 1:1.5. Sand is used fine, sifted through a sieve (cells 1-1.5 mm). It must not contain foreign impurities.

Clay is chosen mainly red and also without impurities. It is pre-soaked for 1-2 days. Brick for kiln work must be well fired and produce a clear sound when tapped.

Important! Unburned brick, with cracks, with voids or silicate bricks cannot be used.

The floor of combustible materials in front of the firebox is protected by a steel pre-furnace sheet, which is laid on an asbestos-cement sheet and attached to the floor.

This oven contains:

single burner stove;
oven;
hood.

1. Furnace foundation. 2. Waterproofing. 3. Steel sheet and asbestos pad to protect the floor. 4. Blower door. 5. Furnace door. 6. Damper. 7. Cooktop. 8. Chimney damper. 9. Oven. 10. Chimney. 11. Gender

Front and side view of the baby stove

It is distinguished by low consumption of firewood with high heat output (approximately 1700 kcal / h), simplicity of design, two modes of use: for heating a room (winter) and for cooking (summer). The kindling stroke, which serves to melt the stove after a break in the furnace, can also be used in the summer when using a hob. In this case, the room is not heated, the heat enters directly into the pipe.

Furnace dimensions:

width - 750 mm;
depth - 630 mm;
height - 1950 mm.

The overlap above the stove is made of a two-burner stove, cut in half. The hole in the ceiling serves for the hood, which is blocked by a valve.

Orders

1st row. It is the basis for the oven. At this stage, you can make two rows. A blower door with a gap and an asbestos-cement cord is also installed here.

2-3 rows. The walls of the ash chamber and one cleaning are laid out, which is closed with a dry half of the brick.

4th row. Partially covers the ash chamber and begins to form smoke channels.

5th row. It involves the installation of a grate. The holes are located along the fuel chamber. The laying of the walls of the channels continues.

6-8 row. Form a furnace. Here, at the same time, a firebox door with a gap (3-5 mm) is installed, into which an asbestos cord is laid.

9 row. Forms the walls of the furnace and channels according to the orders.

10 row. Continues the construction of the walls of the furnace and channels according to the order.

11th row. A single-burner stove is installed, a niche frame is laid, and the laying of the furnace wall and channels continues.

12-18 row. The hob niche and channels are laid out. On the thirteenth row, a valve for kindling is installed.

12th row

13th row

14th-16th rows

17-18th row

19th row. The second half of the stove with a valve is installed on the metal frame of the cooking niche and on the bricks, and the nineteenth row is laid out.

20th row. It involves the installation of an oven and further laying of channels according to the orders.

21-22 row. Continue laying around the oven and laying channels.

23rd row. Supports are installed to cover the oven chamber.

24-26 row. The laying of channels is done according to the orders.

27-28 row. The channels overlap, leaving one pipe channel 140x140 mm according to the order.

Basic requirements for a pipe device

The pipe within the house is laid on a clay-sand mortar, outside the roof - on a cement-sand mortar. Three rows before the ceiling, they begin to fluff.

1. Chimney. 2. Fluff. 3. Rise to the roof. 4. Otter. 5. Head

In places where coating structures made of combustible materials pass, the wall thickness of the pipe should be 380 mm for reasons of fire safety. An otter is made above the roof surface to prevent moisture from entering under the roof. The pipe channel from above must be protected with a metal cap.

1. Laying the main part of the chimney. 2. Fluff ordering. 3. Otter ordering.

The height of the pipe above the roof to improve traction is taken in accordance with the distance to the ridge.

Drying the oven

Drying the oven is done carefully and slowly over three to eight days. This produces a daily firebox with a small amount of fuel. Throughout the drying of the furnace, the furnace, blower door and valves must be open. When wet stripes on the seams disappear from the surface of the stove, and the stove becomes light brown, you can stop moderate heating. At the same time, condensate should disappear on the valve.

Home heating is a paramount factor in comfortable human housing in the autumn-winter time. Despite other options for heating the house, there are no fewer people who want to make a brick hearth.

Skillful house owners lay a classic brick oven with their own hands easily, the masonry technology is described in articles and books. But with inaccurate execution of one detail, the operation of the hearth becomes uncomfortable. There is smoke in the room or there is a risk of fire. It is better to invite a professional stove-maker who will fold the stove according to the rules.

The standard design consists of parts:

foundation or concrete base of the house;
cases with technological details;
chimney to remove combustion products.

Brick stoves for houses in the process of centuries of use have divided by way of operation. Among them are:

Heating hearths are built only to heat the home, they do not perform other functions. It is impossible to heat water or use such a brick structure for cooking. The design scheme is simplified, the service life is measured in decades, but the use is rare. In recent years, after the installation of water circuits, such heating centers of a brick house are not found.

Furnaces arranged in the house for culinary purposes. Sometimes stoves are built in open areas, verandas or summer kitchens. The design is selected so that heat is released only in the area of the cooking surface. Brick hobs are installed only in rooms with organized heating or in places where heating is not required.

Due to the increased functionality, the heating and cooking model of a brick hearth is in demand among the owners. Chimneys in the design of the furnace take the heat of combustion to heat the room. The hostess prepares food on the hob. Sometimes an oven is arranged in a brick hearth for baking. Valves regulate the degree of heating, and in the summer the oven is used only for cooking. These dampers determine the degree of smoke output in the event of external pressure surges.

Barbecue and barbecue arranged in the summer on open natural areas in front of the house or under a canopy. Uncomplicated brickwork with a chimney in the form of a cap, the walls of the brazier simultaneously act as a support for the grate. The owners sometimes arrange a full-fledged kitchen in such a place, supply water and make sewers.

The stove building made of bricks for a bath is arranged as a heating array that produces dry steam. When laying, you can not neglect the little things, shortcomings and inaccuracies will lead to incomplete combustion of the fuel. Improperly fitted bricks pose a risk of releasing toxic, carbon monoxide, or carcinogenic gas.

Russian oven becomes the soul of the house. It is impossible to argue with this concept. In the oven department of the hearth, ancient dishes are prepared that cannot be cooked in a metal oven. In addition to heating the rooms adjacent to it and cooking on the stove, the Russian stove is equipped with a lounger for sleeping after the end of the firebox. In ancient times, colds and diseases of the supporting apparatus were treated on such a warm bed.

What does furnace breath mean?

Warming up, the walls emit wet vapors into the air space of the room, cooling down, they take it back. Speaking of a healthy climate in a house with a brick oven, this property is implied. Threshold of comfort in the house is reduced compared to other heating boilers to a temperature of 18ºС. Even with it, the relative humidity approaches the standard value and people feel comfortable, which cannot be said about other heating sources.

Heating with water heat carriers raises the comfortable temperature threshold to 20-22ºС, electric and gas heating make this figure even one degree higher. A brick oven for a house with a heat transfer coefficient of 50% is more economical in terms of costs than metal hearths with useful work in 70%.

Requirements for the operation of a brick oven

economical heat transfer and full thermal conductivity;
operation for decades;
standalone model;
combination of two - three functions;
warming up the room with the creation of a comfortable microclimate;
simplified design;
an attractive appearance that does not spoil the aesthetics of the room.

Unlike a metal model, a red brick hearth accumulates heat and releases it slowly. The duration of intensive heating of the house continues within 15-20 hours. Smoke is removed through chimneys made of ceramic bricks by natural draft. Air enters through the room where the stove is installed and ventilation is not neglected in it.

Heat transfer without residue is ensured by the complex structure of the smoke channels. To stop the draft after the end of the heating process, close the damper on the main pipe. Dry hardwood logs are considered suitable firewood. After combustion, ash is formed, which enters the receiving compartment for further cleaning.

So that the house is heated everywhere, hearth is built in the center of the dwelling, and the rooms are arranged in a cruciform manner. In each of them there is a part of the furnace rough for heating.

Difficulties in the operation of the furnace does not arise. In addition to exciting kindling, the mood of the owner is created by the smell of smoke escaping from the hearth or contemplation of the dancing flames on the wood.

Do not use household waste and residues of building materials for fuel. Finishing materials emit a lot of substances harmful to the body. Decomposition products during combustion of materials are released by heating and accumulate on the walls of the furnace and chimney, making periodic cleaning difficult.

The disadvantages of a brick hearth include:

the constant need to clean the chimney pipe twice a year;
manual refueling frequency.

Provisions for the device of the furnace

The device of the furnace according to the rules means following the principles of choosing a material, determining the design of the hearth. The construction of a furnace from materials with a lack of quality will lead to a premature violation of the integrity and the need to remake the brick furnace structure. The inexperienced owner of the stove-maker spends his evenings with a taste of smoke, or even lives in an unheated room.

The device of a heavy furnace with a number of bricks above 500 pieces or with a heavy red brick chimney is carried out on a separate foundation. The stove is placed on the base of the house if it is made in the form of a solid slab. A separate foundation of the hearth is built without connection with the strip foundation of housing.

The construction of only a non-heavy hob is allowed on the floor, with pre-reinforced joists. Reinforced thermal insulation and a heating shield are made under it. If the house is being built together with a stove, then the place is chosen according to the building scheme. In an already operating house, a new stove is oriented to the location of the central chimney. The device of the new chimney is made so that the beams of the roof structure are not sawn. The distance to the nearest wooden roof rafter is at least one meter.

Small foci put on a wooden floor, laying insulating layers. But the decision is made only in exceptional cases, since the furnace is built for decades, and the wooden base fails before the brick furnace hearth.

The stove chimney pipe rises above the roof surface by 50 cm and above. This distance increases as the chimney approaches the roof ridge.

How to choose materials

Quarry sand is used for laying furnaces, the use of river and sea sand is limited due to the hewn edges of grains of sand by water waves. And quarry sand consists of grains of sand with torn edges that adhere to the rest of the materials in the solution. Before use, the sand must be sieved and washed with water.

Furnace laying is carried out I'm made of ceramic red brick, silicate is not used due to hygroscopicity. For laying the combustion chamber and chimney, a brick of the highest grade of red color is chosen, without cracks and inclusions with a ringing sound when tapped.

The laying of secondary partitions inside the body of the furnace is carried out with a brick of the second grade of a faded pink color and a deaf echo. Burnt brown material is used for the construction of foundations, and the furnaces themselves are not built from it.

Stones are also used obtained from the demolition of buildings. The laying of the front surface is not carried out from specimens on which soot has adhered. After whitewashing, such a surface gives out black emerging stains during the year. It is undesirable to use bricks after laying on cement or lime mortar, even when cleaned.

The solution is prepared using clay, which acts as a binder. Clay is divided into lean, medium and fatty grades. For oven masonry, average material indicators are used that hold critical temperatures during operation.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

Clay, which acts as an astringent, is not used alone in the solution. The furnace is built on a clay composition with the addition of sand and cement. It does not crack or leak smoke when heated in the oven. Seams are made up to three millimeters thick, for such masonry thirty liters of mortar are consumed per hundred stones. For plasticity, one kilogram of cement and a glass of salt are added to a bucket of clay solution.

water gently mixed with clay and leave to soak for two weeks, periodically stirring the solution. Sand and cement are added after the expiration date. The amount of sand is determined by the fat content of the resulting solution. The skinny one will drain from the shovel and leave no trace, and the fat one will stick in a lump and will not budge. Achieve average performance. Finishing with plaster is done with a cement-sand mortar with the addition of lime.

Stores sell ready-made masonry mortars in the form of a dry composition for the installation of furnaces. In terms of characteristics, they are not inferior to self-prepared ones, they organically balance components and additives. If there is no time for the complex preparation of a clay solution, advanced dry mortars are used.

Furnace foundation

By design, it is built as a monolithic solid, tape, prefabricated reinforced concrete or made of brick. Width exceeds oven base on the sides by 5-7 cm. The constructed base is isolated with two layers of roofing material or coated with two layers of bituminous mastic. Asbestos is laid on top, then a metal sheet, completed with a layer of cardboard or construction felt impregnated with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

After that, they begin to build the furnace, aligning each brick according to the scheme developed in advance.

Using a wood-burning brick oven to heat a private house backed by many benefits. The owners of such devices felt comfort and coziness in houses with stoves. Cost savings and an environmentally friendly atmosphere play a significant role. These ovens are the future.

Brick stoves are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (due to draft and constant air renewal in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and heat the air in several rooms at the same time.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very healthy.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all the instructions, follow the masonry technology, monitor the horizontal rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the furnace is in the center of the house.

Heating;
For cooking (the forerunners of modern stoves);
Cooking and heating (a combination of the two previous models);
Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

Construction is desirable to carry out in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: brick - 220 pieces, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast-iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - a grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, be sure to build a foundation. We choose the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and the level of groundwater. We are waiting for the complete hardening of the foundation and proceed to construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended, as a training, to lay out the oven without mortar in order to avoid mistakes in the future. The rows will be numbered along the masonry for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak bricks in water.

The first two rows are laid out according to the drawing, solid. To do this, you need 10 bricks for each row.
In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we fasten it to the wire and special metal fasteners).
4: we build this row, referring to the order, building up the walls.
5: we are building a brick ceiling above the blower door, we are laying the grate (do not forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate to the brickwork, we fill the gap with sand).
Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the furnace door. We are building the sixth row, clamping the fastening of the door with bricks.
The seventh and eighth rows - we build up the walls, observing the order, again referring to the drawing.
In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating an overlap above it. In this row, we begin to build a smoke box and finish it by the eleventh row.
To separate the cooking zone and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on the edge. We fix the cast-iron hob (row number 12).
From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row, lay out the bricks "on edge". Cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we put a cleaning door, we build up the walls of the furnace.
Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace, bandaging the previous row).
The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
After that, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we make masonry according to the drawing. In the 27th and 28th rows, we leave a space between the bricks to clean the furnace.
Then we make a complete overlap of the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and bring the chimney to the street.

How to kindle a brick oven with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If they are, cover with a solution of clay. We clean the furnace from combustion products. We prepare firewood. Warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the blower door ajar for air access. For uniform burning of firewood we turn with a poker in the process of their burning. Additional firewood is best done after the formation of the first coals.

We make a wood-burning stove for the house: Instructions for building a brick oven

Such a stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of 30-40 sq.m.

The furnace has three flue channels arranged vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we get:

full-bodied ceramic bricks M175 - 400 pieces;
refractory bricks - 20 pieces (SHB8);
two-burner cast-iron stove 70x40 cm;
valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
furnace door 27x30 cm;
blower doors 2 pieces 15x16 cm;
masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build the foundation for the furnace and proceed to laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it sets the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is not more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fire cut.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install a blower door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future, the combustion chamber will be lined with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we produce fasteners for the cleaning door and the formation of the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we block the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we make the overlap of the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see the formation of two vertical smoke channels 12x12 cm.

We denote the left channel with the number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one - with the number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the furnace in winter). The dimensions of the outlet channel are 25x12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form channels and install the furnace door.

Eighth row: we bandage row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the furnace.

We put the valve of the summer course. If you open it, the smoke will directly enter the chimney without overheating the room excessively. If the valve is closed, flue gases will enter channel number 3 and pass along a long path, heating the entire structure of the furnace and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for installing the locking of the furnace door.

Tenth row: we close the furnace door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here, flue gases will pass from the second channel to the first when burning in winter mode.

From fireclay bricks we cut out slots for the grate of the grate and put it inside the furnace. We isolate the back wall with mineral wool.