How to dry a garden plot. How to drain the site: effective methods. It would be desirable to drain the site ...

Waterlogged soil on the site is a problem for its owners. When buying a plot, you can determine the excess moisture by the presence of reeds, sedges, and rushes. Subsequently, the owners are faced with unpleasant fumes, mosquitoes, poor growth of garden plants. Plants disappear due to insufficient access of oxygen to the roots, their decay, exposure to toxic products (nitrates, acids, aluminum salts) formed in swampy soil.

Wetland and clay soil

It is costly to build a house on swampy land. We have to build a deep pile foundation.

All these troubles can be eliminated by draining the territory. There is a solution to the problem, and you can try to get rid of excess moisture yourself. The key to success in this case is an understanding of the nature of the swampiness of the site.

Different situations - different solutions

It is sometimes difficult for a specialist to determine the cause of the formation of a swamp. In this situation, it is important to get acquainted with the surroundings, inspect the lands of neighbors. Excessive soil moisture usually has two main causes:

1. The placement of the allotment in the bottom of the reservoir, which leads to the location of groundwater quite close to the surface. This reason is rarely confirmed, since few people will dare to consciously acquire land in the swamp.
2. Disturbance of the natural flow of water as a result of heavy rains. This problem is associated with several factors - the location of the site below the neighboring ones (water constantly flows to it after rains), the location of a layer of viscous clay close to the surface, or the presence of a source feeding the swamp.

Each case has its own solution to the problem, tested by more than one generation of farmers. An analysis of the situation on the site will allow you to decide which of the drainage methods to apply.

High groundwater level

Reeds grow - water is nearby

Drainage of superficially located groundwater (“perch water”) will allow closed-type drainage, made at a sufficient depth. Such drainage is installed along the perimeter of the site, as well as throughout its territory. With abundant waters, when drainage into the deep layers of the soil does not lead to a result, a drainage well and a pump are needed that can constantly pump out water and divert it outside the territory.

clay soil

Organization of drainage on clay soil

Soil with a high content of clay does not pass moisture well, and the earth remains damp for a long time after rain and snow melt. If at the same time the land plot is located at an angle, the inflow of water comes from the surface of the earth located above. The optimal solution in such a situation is the use of backfill and open ditches for the accumulation and removal of moisture into the depths of the earth.

The organization of drainage of a closed type is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the surface of the earth is far from always justified.

marshland

The optimal, but very costly solution is to raise the ground level and make a drainage ditch along the perimeter. Before draining the site, it is important to consider plans for the use of the territory and determine the depth of drainage. With seasonal waterlogging of the territory, you can dig a ditch in the lowest part of the site. In addition to it, it is necessary to make open drainage channels, often located throughout the entire territory. The sloping site should be protected from the sliding of the earth by plants or geomats.

Drainage ditch along the site

The location of the allotment in the lowland

You can cope with waterlogging with a pump and a drainage well. If it is appropriate and possible, the problem will be solved by a reservoir in the lowest part of the allotment and closed-type drainage performed over its entire area. Drainage must be carried out to a state in which there will be no destruction of the foundations of buildings, and it will be possible for plants to develop.

Learn more about dehumidification methods

An allotment of land can be drained by various methods of reclamation. Before choosing the right one, consider the following factors:

• soil water resistance, its composition;
• direction and level of groundwater location;
• buildings in the garden;
• the height to which the groundwater level is to be lowered.

Delivery of soil to raise the level of the site

Raising the surface level of the allotment will allow the delivery of fresh fertile soil. If the land is plowed up, it will mix with the viscous and dense swampy soil, and it will be possible to grow crops in the garden. Lands cultivated in this way do not require fertilizer for several subsequent years. However, the swamp is a stable ecosystem, so it cannot be ruled out that it will return to its original form over time.

Sand application

If you add sand in the same proportion with the soil of the site, the quality of the land improves and air exchange increases. With the additional introduction of humus, it is possible to cultivate vegetables, berries, and herbs on the ground. Adding sand to waterlogged soil is the creation of more efficient methods of reclamation. The method is effective on its own when applied to clay soils with a slight excess of surface water.

Drainage

The arrangement of the drainage system is the most effective way to divert surface water for a long time. To create it, plastic pipes with small diameter holes in the walls are used. First, it is necessary to wrap the pipes with holes with geotextile in 1-3 layers, depending on the size of the soil particles. They are placed in pre-prepared channels to the following depth:

• for clay soils - 65-75cm;
• for loams - by 70-90cm;
• for sandy areas - up to 1m.

Open and closed ditches

Construction of closed drainage ditches

Open drainage ditches will allow excess water to be removed from the soil surface. They are made with edges beveled at an angle of 20 degrees. The disadvantage of this method is rapid shedding, contamination of the outflow with leaves, debris, and stagnant water. Such drainage structures should be cleaned regularly with a shovel. Open drainage ditches are not used in areas with sandy soil, since the sand is quickly washed out and drainage becomes inefficient. It is convenient to place an open drainage ditch on a site along the fence, where it does not interfere with anyone.

Closed drainage ditches are deep dug trenches covered with a layer of sand and disguised as garden paths. They have an aesthetic appearance, the soil does not collapse in them, the water inside does not bloom.

For the system to function properly, dug trenches are led into a well or dug them up to a layer of sand that will absorb moisture. If the channels become clogged, it will be difficult to clean with soil.

raised beds

When planning to cultivate greens, vegetables, strawberries, owners of waterlogged plots build high beds. Excess moisture collects between the beds, and the land with crops becomes drier. With the right approach, it is possible to grow crops even in areas with excess water. This is confirmed by photos of vegetable gardens in Holland, shrouded in a network of canals. Such conditions allow you to grow anything.

Creating high beds will allow not only to divert excess water, but also to decorate the garden

Digging a pond or well

A decorative pond will collect excess moisture and allow it to gradually evaporate. At the same time, the territory of the garden will become noticeably drier, and the pond itself will decorate the landscape. A good example convinces of the effectiveness of this method - the Canal of the Cross, built for the same purpose in the park of Versailles.

Wells are not inferior in efficiency to ditches. To create them, pits are dug at the lowest points of the site, which are covered with rubble or sand. Their diameter at the bottom is half a meter, at the top - two meters, and the length is about a meter. After rain or snow melt, excess moisture gradually drains into them.

A pond collects rainwater and decorates the site

Planting moisture-loving trees

Moisture-loving trees help rid the swampy garden of excess water. Weeping willows, alders and birches feel good here. Such trees evaporate excess liquid through the leaves. Willows and birches dry out the wetlands, but it will take several years for sufficient drainage. You can also cultivate cranberries, blueberries, viburnum. When the area becomes drier, you should move on to growing your favorite plants.

Willows will decorate and dry the site

Reeds and sedges usually grow in wetlands. To combat them, the area should be drained in a suitable way, for example, by draining excess moisture into the nearest stream. These plants have a powerful root system, and only by removing it, you can avoid new growth for a certain time. To do this, you will have to dig deep holes with your own hands, remove each root, lay roofing material on the bottom of the holes. The bulrush seeds spread well, and if the ground remains wet, the problem will return.

Extreme measures

If none of the listed reclamation methods gave the desired result, or you don’t want to wait, you can invite specialists. With powerful pumps, they quickly pump out unnecessary moisture, and the effect will be visible within a day. However, this is an expensive service, and the problem of waterlogging may return over time.

When it was not possible to win in the fight for dry soil, you can put up with and beat the excessive moisture of the earth. To do this, you can equip the pond, surrounding it with plants that are demanding on moisture.

In humid conditions, blueberries, viburnum, cranberries, marsh iris, mint, buttercups, thuja, and heather grow well. A good addition will be girlish grapes, lush ferns, callas, some varieties of orchid plants.

There are many ways to deal with excess moisture in the garden. However, when none of them helped, you will have to accept and create your own corner of nature. The owner of a swampy allotment can successfully not only grow garden crops and flowers, but also build a house. There are many proven solutions for this.

Hello!

In the spring, we bought a plot in gardening. Although it was already melting with might and main, there was no water on the site, so we decided that the site was located in a good place. There were no large trees on the site, but this is because they were simply cut down, leaving large stumps: birch, spruce and aspen. The entire area is covered with young undergrowth, the same birch, aspen, several Christmas trees. There were also mountain ash and even one wild fruit-bearing apple tree. Therefore, they concluded that it was definitely not a swamp.

Since we wanted to quickly uproot everything, we hired an excavator. Before that, they cut down everything that could fit for firewood. The excavator suggested this option - he drives into the site, pulls out all the stumps, digs a large hole in the corner, rakes the stumps there, fills the hole, levels everything - voila, a flat area. He argued that he had already done this many times, everything was fine.
Well, that's pretty much what happened, but not all. The man turned out to be smart, did not wait for our arrival, but did everything alone. According to him, when he began to dig a hole for stumps, water gushed into it. Nevertheless, he heroically dug it out and raked the stumps there. During this time, the soil began to get wet, the excavator began to get stuck and the man decided not to tempt fate anymore - he left, leaving everything as it was.
Parents went to the site and were completely shocked by what they saw - everything was dug up, in the part farthest from the road there was a huge pile of clay, next to it there was a huge puddle, as they say, over the edge. The excavator nevertheless agreed to come again and level the heap of clay, he did it, but not completely. In addition, getting back through the ditch from the road, he decided to "clean" it and dug another hole in the place of the ditch. How it looks now - in the photographs.

What do we have now. Plot 25 by 40 meters, the narrow part of the road. From the side of the road south-southwest. By the road, a section is half a meter somewhere below the road, then the section gradually drops to the far edge. They didn’t measure exactly, but somewhere around half a meter, or a little more. Neighbors on the left and right have their own plots, their plots are half a meter higher. The section following us seems to have a planned rise. So it turns out that our site is located in a local lowland, everything that surrounds it is higher and higher. In general, the terrain in horticulture is not entirely flat, for example, a few sections from our soil level is noticeably lower, but it is quite dry there.
The ditch from the road is now wide and filled with water almost to the brim, there is no outflow from it towards the neighbors. There are no other ditches around the site. The fertile layer (what was left of it after the tractor) is about 20 cm, then yellow clay with rare small stones. Now, next to a pile of clay left after digging a stump hole, there is a huge puddle, I don’t know how deep it is, and I don’t know if the ill-fated hole is in its place.

What you want to get as a result: a leveled area, possibly with a slope, on which there will never be long-term puddles. On the site it is planned to build a house for 4 people. At the same time, there must be a fertile layer sufficient for a vegetable garden (parents cannot imagine a plot without a vegetable garden)

The pit with stumps is especially disturbing. After all, in fact, it turned out to be a large cavity filled with a loose structure that does not have drains. After all, it will never be dry there. Maybe it makes sense to get stumps out of it, fill the hole with clay, and already fertile soil upstairs?
And if all the neighbors raised plots, it turns out that we also have no other choice but to raise our own?

Sorry for the long exposition, I just want some valuable advice on how to remedy the situation.

Each owner of a summer residence is well aware of some difficulties that can cause a lot of trouble. A large army of pests destroys crops, the land loses its fertile properties, various diseases affect plants, and so on, you can list a lot. Within the framework of this article, we will consider such a case when a low level of groundwater is observed in a summer cottage. This can negatively affect the vegetation, which begins to rot and die.

Groundwater on the site can undermine the foundation of the house and outbuildings. Over time, this will cause the destruction of the foundation. Due to the large amount of groundwater, the acidity in the soil increases.

Such a nuisance can be eliminated only by draining, which will be discussed. Such an event can be carried out independently or, in extreme cases, by contacting specialists.

In order to understand whether you are ready to take on the work of draining the site, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following video:

Site drainage methods

Often, do-it-yourself dehumidification can be done in one of two ways:

1. arrange drainage;
2. use moisture-loving plants.

However, in order to understand how to drain the site with your own hands, and choose the best way to solve the problem, you need to correctly assess the situation. In some cases, excess moisture cannot leave due to the insufficient angle of inclination of the site. Then the solution to the problem of shallow groundwater is to form the necessary slope (optimally 2-3%). This may entail certain costs, since you need to hire a car to bring the required amount of land.

But if the site has heavy clay soil, then powdering will probably not be possible. In this case, you can lay the whole drainage system with your own hands. It is only worth considering that such an event will require certain knowledge and skills, as well as proper calculation and a good plan.

Proper site drainage requires a plan

There are many companies that have extensive experience in areas with a lot of groundwater and who can take all the work. But it all depends on the size of the budget. And if someone cannot afford the services of specialists, then it remains to do everything with their own hands. Perhaps the method using plants will be more acceptable.

drainage system

This method is an effective means of protecting against groundwater. It is quite difficult to make such a system on your own, but doable, you just need to be well prepared.

The simplest drainage consists of a receiving network where water will flow and a water intake. As the latter, you can arrange an artificial reservoir with your own hands, which will serve for irrigation or as a decoration.

Preparation

Preparatory work involves the correct calculation of the slope and the place for the catchment. It is also necessary to draw up a diagram of the entire site, which will allow you to determine the amount of material needed:

• pipes;
• couplings;
• tees;
• corners;
• plugs.

In addition, you need to take care of the stocks of crushed stone, clay and sand.

Geotextiles are very popular in the improvement of many cottages. Although it has not been on the market for so long, it has managed to establish itself as a fairly practical material.

But technology does not stand still, and now many companies produce corrugated plastic drainage pipes, which can seriously compete.

Installation

After the preparatory stage, you can proceed directly to the installation of the drainage system with your own hands.

To do this, the first step is to dig a trench to a certain depth and with the desired slope angle. The width of the trench depends on the size of the pipes used, the composition of the soil and its depth. Usually it is 30-70 cm. The bottom of the ditch must be well compacted, then a layer of clay should be covered, which is also well compacted. This will avoid deformation of the trench.

Sand should be laid on top of the clay in a thin layer, and drainage pipes will already be laid on it, and at a certain angle (2-3%). This will allow the water to drain naturally without forming stagnation after heavy rains. Having laid the pipes along the entire length of the trench, they can be connected to each other using couplings.

As for the water intake, you should carry out high-quality waterproofing with your own hands, as well as provide for several compartments. From time to time, water will need to be pumped out of them. After all the pipes are connected, they can already be covered with sand, and then with crushed stone of a large fraction with a layer of 20-30 cm. After that, everything can be covered with earth in several layers, each of which must be well tamped.

It is better to lay such a drainage system before building a house. Otherwise, the trench is also dug around the house, but with a slightly greater depth (5-10 cm below the base of the foundation).

Problem solving with plants

An alternative way to drain groundwater is to plant moisture-loving plants. Only in this case it is necessary to take into account that not every root system may be suitable. Plants with taproots will rot because too much water under its own pressure will simply cut off oxygen. Which will lead to death.

Therefore, you should choose those plants that have a fibrous root system, and these are:

• birch;
• maple.

In addition, there are many beautiful species of these plants, which will allow not only to absorb excess moisture, but also significantly transform your summer cottage.

Coniferous trees (spruces) will also help to solve the issue of drainage. Their roots are located close to the surface of the earth. Alder and poplar feel great in the water, but not every summer resident decides to plant them, since such trees do not differ in decorativeness. In addition, poplar fluff can cause allergies and fires.

Shrubs can also be effective in removing excess moisture.

You can create a whole hedge from shrubs such as:

• hawthorn;
• rose hip;
• spirea;
• vesicle;
• irga.

Fruit trees do not grow well in highly moistened soil, but if there is a need for them, then it is worth choosing varieties with a superficial arrangement of roots. And for planting these plants, small hills with a height of 50-100 cm are needed.

In general, draining a summer cottage can be done independently, even if it is not as easy as it might seem. It will take a lot of effort and time, but the result is worth it, given that this is all done for the good of your family.

Water on the site has never left anyone indifferent. Both the owners of various suburban land plots and the owners of high lands are once faced with the following question: how can you drain your land, especially in early spring - just at this time, due to melt water, the water level on the site begins to rise, although and for a short time.

So, you need to figure out what dehumidification options are available, which ones should be used and at what time?

Land drainage options

The first option, which is the easiest and quite possible for a large number of people, is planting plantings that can hold a lot of moisture. It is rather difficult to call this method really great, but for most people it is the only way out. For example, when you need to drain a small one, and in the middle of an already planned territory there is a house. In such a situation, birches or oaks, which are considered lovers of moisture, can be best suited, and they contribute to the reduction of water in the soil.

Another effective way is to raise the level of the soil. This is not so difficult to do - it is worth finding out where there is inexpensive land, ordering several trucks and evenly raising the earth to the required height. However, it must be remembered that it is best to do this when the house has not yet been built, otherwise there will be a risk that all the water on the earth will collect in the lowest place, namely near the house, and then it may even turn into another bad problem.

2. Water diversion from a specific piece of land.

When the soil on the site is very porous, then it simply will not be able to retain water for a certain time, which is so necessary for plants to absorb it well. If, on the contrary, the soil is quite dense, then it will allow water to be retained on the very surface and, just so, it will not go directly to the roots of the plant itself. If you want to know what exactly is the density of your soil, then you should dig a small hole, about 1 m deep, and pour water into that place. If over time the water completely disappears, then your soil will be highly porous. If after a couple of days it does not disappear completely, then its density will be quite high.

What are the methods of drainage

The most effective way to do drainage is to correctly lay special pipes exactly so that they are placed underground, if done in places where the soil will be heavy and very clay, or will be peaty. It is quite possible to make such a system using plastic pipes that are laid in trenches at a depth of 70 cm. It is also an excellent system in which the pipes are placed in a herringbone pattern - there must be one main pipe and several side pipes extending from it. In this case, the largest pipe must be about 10 cm in diameter and be under a slight slope. The diameter of the side pipes can be smaller, about 7 cm. It is also necessary to see exactly where all the unnecessary water on the ground will go - it is advisable to direct the outlet somewhere into a ditch or a nearby stream. If none of this is available, then a great solution would be to build a small well, even 1 m deep, which must be built at the lowest point in your garden.

Imagine that you have already purchased a great plot for yourself, but when it rains heavily, it just turns into a swamp. All weekend you have to go there to work on this garden, however, in order to take and walk through it, you have to walk barefoot - the amount of water on the ground can be such that rubber boots simply cannot help, water will make its way into them. This is very noticeable in the spring, when the entire territory can be under water. Because of this, all plantings may soon rot - in the first season it is worth deciding which drainage system to choose. To lay drainage pipes, it is worth digging a large number of ditches on the site, and pipes are very expensive.

Currently, a large number of people use a very funny drainage system that is not worth spending money on. To do this, they simply collect the top layer of soil right up to the clay itself, and various branches, as well as tree trunks, are dropped in its place. From above, you need to dump all the land that was previously collected before. This method is very simple, the darker it will not be enough for a long time, and such actions will have to be taken all seasons - while it takes a lot of time to complete all these actions.

Own drainage system

One of the best options can be called open drainage of the land. The first thing to do for this is to dig a ditch along the very perimeter of the entire territory. For this, an excavator can be suitable, which can save a lot of time, as well as effort. To enter the territory, you can easily put a pipe in the groove, and pour crushed stone on top of it. After the ditch is dug around the entire perimeter, you can make sure that all the water on the ground merges into the main ditch, which should be placed strictly along the road. In addition, using an excavator, you can make a small one in the center - it will be an excellent reservoir for water after snowmelt or heavy rains. And, of course, it is necessary to make sure that water from the entire territory can flow directly into the ditches.

Many people solve this problem by raising the general level of the ground - for this it is worth buying additional land. It must be remembered that 1 cu. m. of land can cover about 40 sq. m. m area on the ground, at a layer level of 25 mm. If you calculate correctly, then for a lawn you need a layer of about 10 cm, for sowing seeds - about 15 mm, but for various ornamental plants or shrubs you need about 40 cm of new soil. At the same time, it is the brought land that may not be of very high quality, contain weed seeds, stones, chips, or even microbes.

Alternatively, you can increase the level of all those places where you want to grow all your plants. Plantings can be easily planted along the perimeter by allocating a strip of about 3 m for this. Leave a path of 1 m along this strip, which will be a ditch. With this same land, you can raise the level of the place where those plantings will grow in the future. Therefore, it is not necessary to acquire any excess soil, but to connect the ditch with the main ditch along the route, where all the excess water on the land will then drain.

Working with, the distance between them must be left about 50 cm, while completely removing all the earth from this distance to the clay itself, and again raising the ground level of all the beds. All the water in the local area will leave according to these ditches, without moistening your beds much. As a result of all these actions, you will be able to notice that the level of the soil in all these places will rise a lot, which will perfectly affect the overall look of your garden.

How to use garden equipment?

If you have taken on all this work, then it is much easier to do it when the earth is a little wet - although it is the heaviest, nevertheless, dry earth is more difficult to work with both a shovel and even special equipment. It is very convenient to use a motor cultivator for digging ditches. The acquisition of this technique will certainly be able to justify itself, especially if you approach it with great responsibility. Basically, it weighs about 10 kg and helps to process all the beds and do a large number of other works in the local area. The motor cultivator can plow loose soil, which after this process can be immediately dumped directly onto the beds, leaving behind a certain ditch.

Drainage effect (Video)

Just in such a simple way, you can make a personal drainage system in your local area. It will work perfectly, there will be no flooding. Before each season, it is imperative to clean all ditches, including the main one, as well as passages with great attention so that no water remains in them at all. The big minus is that during heavy rain the ditches are filled with water, and you can move there only in boots. However, you can forget about the fact that your plantings will suffer from excess water, since all the water in the local area now passes directly through the soil and flows directly into the ditches. But in the summer you can move around the garden in slippers alone, enjoying your personal harvest!

You can learn more about the arrangement of the drainage system in our video.

The presence of water is the main condition for the growth of almost all plants, including garden crops. But, if there is a lot of water, then this is already a real disaster. This is familiar to many owners of summer cottages and country houses. And you can’t put up with this: in a swampy area, not only flowers and trees in the garden will disappear very quickly, nothing will grow in the garden, but buildings will soon begin to suffer. The fact is that in the muddy mess, the base of the building will begin to disperse, fall into the depths and, over time, cracks will appear on the walls, which will increase after each prolonged rain. An unhappy prospect. But not a single owner will wait for such unpleasant consequences, especially since there is a way out - you can drain the site.

Drainage is a whole system designed to provide an outflow from a surface water area. But before proceeding with its arrangement, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

1. Terrain relief.
2. The level at which the ground water is located.
3. The amount of precipitation.
4. Communication plan.
5. Placement (if any) of a cellar, basement or other recessed buildings.
6. Structure, composition of the soil.
7. The presence of shrubs, trees and their number.

Stagnation of water on the site seriously threatens the integrity of buildings

Now it remains to choose the version of the system that is suitable for the site.

System types

There are two ways to drain the soil - by arranging deep or surface drainage. Although both options are designed to remove excess moisture, their laying and work are done in completely different ways.

So, the main purpose of surface drainage is to remove water from the topsoil that collects after floods, rain and accumulates near the building, terrace, paths and other objects of the site.

Surface drainage

To dry the surface layers, you can equip a linear or point system design. Water intakes in the arrangement of point drainage are installed where water occupies small areas. This:

• various recesses of a natural type;
• the lower parts of the terraces;
• zones at the door;
• entry;
• near waterways.

The design of the point system is so simple that it does not need to create a circuit for its manufacture. To equip the structure, it is necessary to prepare storm water inlets, water conduits, storm dampers, sedimentation tanks, ladders.

Surface drainage

So that fertile soil from areas that have a slope of more than three degrees is not washed off, it is necessary to equip a storm system. It is also necessary in the following cases:

1. When the water washes away the path.
2. To drain the area where the entrance to the garage is located.
3. When there are frequent long rains and it is necessary to divert a large amount of water from the foundations of structures.

Linear drainage

This is the name of the system of gutters buried in the soil. To close the gutters, removable gratings made of metal or plastic material are used.

The main condition is that the gutters must be laid at a slope so that the water masses can move by gravity. Moving along the gutter, moisture enters the sand trap. This element is the simplest filter from which water moves through conduits to storm sewers.

Linear drainage

To build a linear drainage, you need to first plan its placement and prepare for laying. In addition, it is necessary to equip a concrete base for laying all the elements of the system. If there is a need to make a larger catchment area, you can additionally concrete the slope.

Attention! To improve drainage efficiency, it is necessary to combine linear and point structures in the same area. Then the volumes of water, even after strong floods, showers, will be diverted from the soil and will not be able to harm either buildings or plants.

deep drainage

This is the name of the system of underground drainage channels. They move excess water masses from the site. To collect them, collector or drainage wells are equipped.

According to how groundwater is collected, the structures are:

1. Vertical.
2. Horizontal.
3. Combined (combines both previous options).

Vertical structures are built like ribbed wells. They are located in aquifers. Filtering and pumping units are placed inside the wells. Because of this, such systems are considered engineering structures that need constant maintenance. Therefore, vertical drainage is rarely used in a private area. For the same reason, combined structures are not built so often.

deep drainage

The simplest and most affordable horizontal drainage. And not superficial, but deep type. The main elements for its arrangement are drains. These are perforated pipes intended for laying on gravel filling in prepared ditches. Previously, asbestos-cement products were used for this purpose, but they turned out to be harmful to the environment and were replaced by plastic ones.

Advice. Today, PVC pipes are used not ordinary, smooth, but corrugated. Such products are less time-consuming to install and cost less.

So that sand and soil do not get inside the pipes through the holes, they are wrapped in a special material. This is geotextile or coconut fiber material. The choice of material depends on the type of soil. If it is loamy or sandy, geotextiles can be used; for other types of soil, coconut fiber material is suitable. Interlining, dornite and other soft materials are used as geotextiles, but hard ones should not be taken - they do not pass moisture well.

Work that can be done with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Draw up a laying diagram, which will indicate the location of the sewer well.
2. Based on the scheme, dig ditches.
3. Lay sand on the bottom with a layer of 10-15 cm, and then lay the geotextile. It should be enough to wrap the drains.
4. Lay the drains so that they are sloped and lead to the collector.
5. Connect individual elements with tees or crosses.
6. Wrap the drains and pour rubble on top, and then a layer of earth.

From the collector it is necessary to provide further discharge of water. The nearest ditch, ravine, and if possible, the central storm system can serve as such a place.

Attention! During the laying of drains, it is necessary to backfill using crushed stone. It is best to take crushed stone with a fraction of 2 to 6 cm in size for this. Granite, river crushed stone is suitable, but limestone should not be used: it will be washed out during operation and salinization of the soil will certainly occur.

Maintenance of drainage systems

Although both deep and surface systems, with proper arrangement, do not need frequent maintenance, it is still necessary:

Don't Forget About Regularly Cleaning Your Drainage System

1. Regularly inspect wells and sewers. If necessary, clean them up.
2. To remove deposits from the walls of the drainage pipes, it is necessary to do their capital flushing. This will not be done often - once every 8-10 years.

In order to design and lay drainage on the site, it is imperative to watch a video with instruction materials on the specifics of the work. If everything is done correctly, the drainage will work for more than half a century, ensuring all this time the removal of excess moisture from the site.

Site drainage: video