Spring care for garlic planted in autumn. How to grow and care for garlic outdoors for a good harvest Winter garlic care

Garlic is a well-known biennial herbaceous bulbous plant up to 1 m in height, with an ovoid bulb consisting of 6-10 small bulbs. The stem that carries the flower is erect, often twisted at the top into a ring, which subsequently straightens. The leaves can be up to 1 m long, linear, bright green, flat, covered with a bluish bloom, pointed. The flowers are regular, white or purple, on long stalks, forming a few-flowered umbrella. Between the pedicels in umbellate inflorescences, numerous small onion-children 1.5 - 3 mm in size develop. The fruit of garlic is a box. The smell is sharp, peculiar, the taste is sweetish, burning. Blooms in June - July. Basically, care consists of watering, fertilizing, loosening, mulching and controlling diseases and pests.

Watering garlic in the garden

Garlic is a very demanding plant for moisture, especially in the initial stages of growth, namely: at the stage of root growth (about two weeks after the start of growth), with leaf growth (about a month after the start of growth) and at the time of the formation of teeth and arrows (this moment falls on the period after two months after the emergence of garlic).

If there is not enough moisture in the soil, the garlic dries out unripe as it should be. There is little rainfall - watering is necessary. At the time of planting winter garlic in the fall, if the soil is dry, it is also necessary to moisten the soil.

Garlic is watered as the soil dries up, in dry weather, watering is plentiful - 10-12 liters each. per m², but if it rains regularly, you can refuse watering. They completely stop watering the garlic in August, when the bulb begins to gain weight and volume.

Garlic is watered until the second half of August, although already in August it looks more like spraying garlic than watering. If not watered, then the heads are small and not juicy.

It is believed that watering should be stopped when the leaves begin to turn brown, usually two to three weeks before harvest. If you do not stop watering the garlic, then microscopic cracks will appear on its skin. Such garlic cannot be stored for a long time: mold will appear on it very soon. If you plan on storing garlic all winter, it's better to stop watering too early than too late.

Garlic stops watering two, and preferably three weeks before you dig it up, otherwise it will not be stored well with you.

If you mean stopping watering before harvesting, then it is best to stop watering a month before harvesting. Winter garlic is harvested in late July - early August, therefore, watering should be stopped in early July. For spring garlic, this period occurs two weeks later.

Feeding garlic in the garden

Garlic responds quite well to the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. In autumn, it is fertilized with humus (6-7 kg per 1 sq. M.). Humus can be replaced with rotted compost, potassium sulfate - with any potash fertilizer, dolomite flour - with chalk. Ash is best used from hardwood. It is possible to completely exclude organic matter if garlic is planted on fertile black soil, as well as in cases where manure was introduced under the crops preceding garlic. Fresh manure should be avoided. Do not apply high doses of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil, as this can lead to a powerful growth of the vegetative mass, resulting in a decrease in the yield of bulbs.

Winter varieties of garlic respond well to phosphorus and potash fertilizers. And all because it is these elements that positively affect the winter hardiness of garlic. Top dressing of winter garlic is carried out in early spring on thawed soil. Spring garlic is fed when the first shoots appear at the rate of 10 square meters: 60 g of ammonium nitrate, 90-100 g of superphosphate and 50-60 g of potassium sulfate. After 25-30 days, if necessary, a second dressing of garlic is carried out in the same doses.

Loosening the soil between the rows of garlic

Garlic sprouts very early, as soon as the snow melts. Around the middle of March. However, there are not isolated cases when seedlings appear already at the end of February or more - when planting garlic in September and a warm autumn, seedlings may appear in the month of December. There are also delays when the garlic comes off in late March - early April.

The first tillage, which should be carried out as soon as the soil condition allows, is harrowing across the rows in one, rarely two tracks with light harrows. In small areas loosen the earth with a rake. Then they pass along the rows and cover the plants extracted with a harrow or rake with soil, trying not to damage the root system.

Loosening the soil between rows should be given special attention. Such an event contributes to the conservation of moisture and the improvement of the air regime and the destruction, with high-quality conduct, up to 90-95% of weeds.

It is known that the root system of garlic is very sensitive to damage, it is poorly regenerated, and even its slight injury negatively affects the growth and development of plants.

The bulk of the root system of garlic is located in the arable layer, and a significant part of the roots - at a depth of 5-7 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, it is unacceptable to deepen the working bodies of the cultivator by 10-12 and even 8-9 cm.

Loosening the row spacing with a tractor cultivator with chisel-like paws to a depth of 10-12 cm can only be recommended at the beginning of the growing season with the appearance of the first shoots. In the future, only the top layer of soil is loosened to a depth of 5 cm to prevent the formation of a crust and destroy young seedlings of weeds.

Organic garlic mulching

Fallen leaves, even without additional processing, can be used to protect the soil. But a prerequisite for this is the absence of diseases provoked by the fungus in the trees from which it has fallen, otherwise the entire area may be affected by spores. To avoid this possibility, foliage is preferred to be used as a component of compost, especially since its nutritional value is beyond doubt. An additional safeguard will be the antifungal treatment of the leaves just before they are put into the compost. Leaf humus, slightly acidic and not a fertilizer, perfectly conditions the soil, helping to improve its structure. In addition to mature leaf humus, both dry and half-rotted leaves are used for mulching.

Inorganic garlic mulching

Increasingly, specialists and amateurs began to use a special mulching film. It comes in white, black and transparent. All types have their purpose.

Black film is most often used for beds with strawberries and strawberries, cutting holes for the bushes themselves. The soil becomes warm faster, weeds practically do not grow due to the lack of light, and the soil is always moist. Berries become ripe in a shorter time. At the onset of a summer drought, the film should be removed due to the fact that the soil dries too quickly. Most often used by enterprises and farms. Gardeners and summer residents are limited to organic types of mulch.

A transparent film is often used for garlic due to the fact that weeds do not grow and the soil becomes warm faster. Warming up the ground is especially important for garlic, as it is planted in early spring.

White films are used for mulching heat-loving crops because they protect the soil from overheating, reflect bright light and prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly. Air passes through it with ease, but weeds, after all, do not grow.

Diseases of garlic and measures to combat them

When discussing how to grow garlic in the garden, it is impossible not to dwell on pests. Various kinds of insects do not particularly favor this vegetable. Infection is rare and mostly only by nematodes or onion thrips. The first are similar to microscopic "worms". They live inside the plant itself. They do not cause much damage, but in some cases they can destroy the entire crop. Thrips feed on garlic leaves, drinking juice from them. This leads to slower bulb growth. Of the diseases, garlic is most often affected by white rot. After infection, the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, as a result of which it dies. Garlic also suffers from fusarium and downy mildew. You can get rid of nematodes by planting beds with undersized marigolds with a strong odor. Plants are relieved of thrips by treatment with a solution of karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water).

Pests of garlic and measures to combat them

Stem nematode. Signs: This small pest is very dangerous. Plant specimens damaged by it turn yellow and dry out over time. The head becomes loose and wet. It has a very unpleasant smell.

Over time, the bottom becomes rotten. Control measures: since these vegetable pests overwinter in the soil, we never plant this crop in the same summer cottage for two years in a row. Before planting garlic, we disinfect it by heating the planting material in warm water (50 degrees) for 15 minutes.

We regularly weed plantings, timely remove weeds and damaged specimens of vegetables. Wells affected by nematodes are treated with Gromoboy. In autumn, we burn all the remains of plants.

Root and flour mites. Signs: These pests of vegetables penetrate the bulb through its bottom. Gradually it becomes rotten and disappears.

These mites damage crops in storage. Control measures: sprinkle the garlic stored in storage with powdered chalk or aqueous iron phosphate, called vivianite (200 g / 70 kg of bulbs). During the growing season, we remove weeds and plant residues in a timely manner. Plantings are treated with preparations - acaricides such as Omite (1.5 ml / 1 liter of water).

Garlic in Russian cuisine (along with salt and pepper) is considered the main spice. In ancient times, common garlic food helped stop the plague in Europe because it is a unique plant with bactericidal, anti-inflammatory, antifungal and antiseptic properties.

The spice plant belongs to one of the least demanding plants, however, it has some features that should be considered when planting. On the one hand, garlic is hardy, on the other hand, it needs a sunny and not too humid place. In winter, the bed can be additionally protected with straw, mulch or brushwood. This article will introduce you to how to care for garlic and cultivate it in the open field.

Landing time

Vegetable growers grow both spring and winter garlic. However, planting winter garlic is practiced more often. The fact is that by spring the planted material has a good root system, thanks to which the bulb ripening process begins.

In order for the planted material to take root, it must be planted a month and a half before the first frost. In this case, he will not be afraid of winter. Each region has its own landing time. In the middle lane - this is the end of September. In more southern regions, this period may last until early November.

winter garlic

Soil preparation

With the approach of cold weather, experienced gardeners begin to prepare the site for sowing. A crop with large bulbs can be obtained on high-quality soil. Winter garlic loves loamy and sandy soils. It does not grow on acidic and saline soils. To get a good harvest for planting, you need to allocate an unshaded fertile plot of land in the garden, carefully dug up, not containing clods. The digging depth must be at least 25 cm, and all weeds must be removed.

If necessary, the soil is improved by applying complex fertilizers or organic matter, but not fresh manure. It can cause fungal infection of garlic. The best for feeding will be peat introduced during digging, as well as an additive per 1 square meter of fertilizer mixture: 20 gr. superphosphate and potash fertilizer. Saltpeter is added before planting, based on 1 square meter 10 gr.

Advice. The planting of garlic should be carried out in accordance with natural farming, involving crop rotation. You can not plant a crop in the same place for two years in a row. A good harvest will be after planting garlic in the place where they grew: cabbage, zucchini, squash, cucumbers.

Seed preparation

The main condition for obtaining a good harvest is high-quality planting material and competent selection of zoned varieties. You should not take cloves from large heads bought in supermarkets for sowing. This garlic is imported and grown mainly in warm countries. He is not used to the climate of the middle latitudes, so there is no guarantee that he will give a good harvest.

Otradnensky and Komsomolets can be attributed to the popular high-yielding varieties of garlic that tolerate low temperatures well. Beginning gardeners should be aware that before planting, seed material is calibrated, selecting the largest teeth. The garlic bulb is disassembled before planting.

To prevent possible diseases, the seed is soaked for a couple of hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Gardeners recommend an empirically proven 2-stage effective disinfection of garlic cloves:

For 3 minutes, the planting material is immersed in a solution of ordinary edible salt. Solution - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of salt per 2 liters of water;
For 3 minutes, it is immersed in a solution of copper sulfate. Solution - 2 teaspoons of vitriol per 2 liters of water.

Possible diseases and pests

Garlic is considered a biological pesticide. Pests such as aphids cannot stand its smell and tend to stay away. The garlic bulb is most susceptible to diseases during the growing season. A fungal disease in which the roots die and the leaves turn yellow is the bottom rot. Downy mildew manifests itself as a gray coating on the leaves.

The garlic tuber gets sick only if you overdo it with watering, and waterlogging occurs in the garden. This is what can lead to rot or a fungal disease, usually the so-called "garlic rust". In this case, unfortunately, nothing can be done, the tubers are no longer edible.

Prevention in this case is the processing of seed and not waterlogging the soil.

Planting in the beds

The bed must be level. To obtain a crop with large garlic bulbs, rows are formed 20-25 cm apart. The distance in a row between the teeth is from 10 to 12 cm. On average, 45-50 teeth per 1 square meter are considered the norm.

The earth should be of moderate density so that in winter the clove is not pushed out of the ground. Too soft is also not suitable, it can pull the seedling down, as a result, small heads will form.

Planting in the beds

When planting, the clove should not be pressed into the ground so as not to damage the place where the roots grow. How deep to plant depends on the size of the teeth. The recommended distance from the top of the clove to the top of the soil is up to 5 centimeters.

Before leaving for the winter, garlic beds are mulched with a layer of leaves, dried grass or sawdust, and brushwood is laid out for snow retention.

Care

Garlic is a hardy plant. Caring for sprouted garlic after winter is simple. With the advent of spring, the beds with winter garlic begin to loosen, removing the winter shelter, and weeding is carried out from weeds that have managed to appear in the aisles. Weeding should be done constantly, removing weeds that are garlic's competitors in obtaining nutrients.

In April, the beds already have green sprouts of garlic. At this time, he loves loosening the soil, for a better supply of oxygen, and needs additional nutrition. Due to the preference of summer gardeners, organic or mineral fertilizer is chosen. Caring for seedlings of winter garlic in the spring is to help the plant begin an active growing season.

The first dressing is applied two weeks after the snow melts or the first garlic leaves appear. This is an aqueous solution of urea (10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of urea). Fertilizer distribution - per 1 sq. meter landings goes 2 liters of solution.

Caring for winter garlic in spring

If active vegetation has begun, and the soil has been well fertilized since autumn, the second top dressing can be done in April-May. It uses ammofoska and nitrophoska (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), produced a couple of weeks after the first feeding. Fertilizer distribution - about 3 liters of solution per 1 square meter of plantings.

You should not be zealous with fertilizer, just as you should not forget that only proper care of garlic in the spring will bring a good harvest. It is traditionally believed that fertilizer is more harmful than beneficial. If the garlic leaves have brightened, the plant is fed with nitrophoska (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

You need to start watering the garlic after the spring moisture has gone. Seedlings should be watered regularly, but moderately during the period of active growth, so that a large garlic head is formed. There should be light soil moisture. If the beds are mulched, soil moisture is retained longer. Throughout the summer, weeding and loosening of the soil after irrigation are carried out.

Attention! Sometimes beginner vegetable growers have questions about growing garlic. It is known that leeks and batun are spudded to get the white lower part of the plant, but is it necessary to spud sprouted garlic? No, garlic does not need this procedure.

In arrowed garlic, the arrow is broken off at its height of 10 cm. If there is a need to grow bulbs for "divorce", several strong plants are left.

Proper picking of garlic

A month before harvesting garlic, watering should be stopped. With an arrow height of 20 cm, it must be pinned at a height of 5 cm and the soil removed from the bulb so that its top is visible for faster ripening.

The first signs that the garlic crop is ready for harvest are the yellowing of the lower leaves and the laying of most of them. In mid-July, harvesting begins in the middle lane, and in Siberia and the northern regions - in the first decade of August.

Proper picking of garlic

Weather conditions are of no small importance. If the season is rainy, the bulbs will ripen earlier than in a hot, dry summer. In any case, the type of garlic, its upper dense scales, serves as a guideline for ripening. Why you should not hesitate to dig up garlic bulbs? The bulb in the ground will “overripe” and begin to break up into teeth and germinate. In this case, the garlic is poorly preserved.

Harvesting is carried out on warm sunny days:

When harvesting garlic, use a shovel or fork. The main thing is not to damage the bulbs;
From the dug out garlic, you need to shake off the ground from the rhizome, but in no case knock on the shovel. The garlic head in the affected places may begin to rot;
Drying of garlic is carried out within a week. In sunny weather, garlic is dried in convenient places for this in the areas of a summer residence or a personal plot. On cloudy days, drying can be organized in well-ventilated areas, like an attic or a shed in the yard;
Do not cut off all the leaves of the plant. During drying, they provide additional nutrients;
After drying, the garlic must be examined for the integrity of the cover. It protects the garlic in storage. It is recommended to cut the roots, but leave 2-3 cm so that the garlic does not dry out. It is necessary to leave the stem of garlic for long-term storage;
The best heads with large teeth should be set aside as seed stock for winter planting.

How is garlic stored?

The harvested garlic crop can be stored at room temperature, and in a cooler one. The optimum room humidity should not exceed 60%. Not the last role is given to ventilation. Garlic can be stored in a variety of ways:

In the form of a braided braid, weaving up to 20-25 heads. At the end of the braid, a loop is made of rope for hanging it in a storage place. It can be a dry basement and pantry;
Garlic is stored in wicker baskets. It is well ventilated, and the risk of heads falling into teeth from drying out is reduced;
Garlic is well preserved in flour. It protects against rodents and insects;
In salt-soaked canvas bags, garlic does not dry out and is stored until spring;
If garlic is used frequently in cooking, it can be stored in a container in the kitchen, sprinkled with salt;
Some vegetable growers store garlic in paraffin. A thin shell is formed around the bulb dipped in paraffin, through which the liquid does not evaporate. Garlic is preserved, and in this form it remains fresh for many years.

How is garlic stored?

Wherever you store the harvested garlic crop, it should be reviewed from time to time. In preparation for storage, an abrasion or cut on the bulb could have been unnoticed. This can cause rot or mold to form on the bulb. Spoiled and suspicious material must be removed from the storage area so as not to infect healthy heads of garlic.

Spring, the time of awakening, the sun shines brighter, heats the still moist soil, this is the time for the appearance of green arrows of winter garlic on its surface. Its sprouts are not afraid of even small sub-zero temperatures, remember how we planted it in the fall? It's time to continue the work that has been started, and if you want to get large yields of useful sharp cloves, you need to act now.
You should start by loosening the soil so that a crust does not form while the substrate is wet, and you need to loosen it so as not only to destroy the hardening top layer, but also to loosen the soil to a shallow depth. To do this, loosening is carried out 3-4 centimeters deep into the soil, after which its top layer is mulched, using wet or humus for this - this will serve as additional, accurate nutrition at the initial stage.
After that, it is necessary to start watering, you can water now, be sure to water in May and June, but a month before harvesting, watering must be stopped completely, this will allow the heads to ripen, otherwise they will not be stored well. The volume of irrigation water must be spent focusing on the air temperature, if it is too hot, then it is necessary to increase, but if it is cold, on the contrary, reduce the amount.
Even irrigation doses are calculated, they are often given in various literature on vegetable growing and they can be freely guided, it will not be worse for sure. So, in moderate weather, when it is not too hot and at times there is a little rain, one square meter of soil should be spent up to a bucket of water, watering the plants every week. In hot weather, a bucket of water will also suffice, but the frequency of watering should be increased to twice a week. If it often rains well outside the window and it is not too hot, then watering is not only unnecessary, it can be dangerous and cause rot.
By the way, watering can and even needs to be combined with top dressing, the first one should be carried out in the spring, when a couple of leaves are formed on the plant. A complete top dressing consists of a tablespoon of urea, or other liquid fertilizer that has a similar effect. All this is diluted in a bucket of water, and with this solution you can water the plants from a watering can, spending a third of the bucket per square meter.
The second feeding should be carried out literally a few days after the first. Another solution is suitable here - a couple of tablespoons of nitroammophoska in a bucket of water. Liquid fertilizers similar in action can be used, spending the resulting solution at about half a bucket per square meter.
The third top dressing (final) is carried out at the very beginning of June, at this time the processes of bulb formation are actively going on. For full feeding during this period, a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate diluted in a bucket of water is suitable, this volume is enough for about three square meters of soil.
N. Khromov,
cand. biol. Science

Kira Stoletova

Winter garlic - a popular variety in the Slavic region, has as many as 19 varieties against 7, its spring counterpart Yarovoy. This preference in selection can be explained by the fact that Winter is more spicy, its cloves are larger, which makes it easier to clean. Caring for garlic in the spring requires some preparation, which we will discuss later in this article.

Features of winter garlic

Planting garlic is done in the fall to leave for the winter. Harvesting earlier than at Yarovoe, usually guided by the feast of Peter and Paul. But this is not entirely true: it would be much better to look at the state of the plant, because there are a lot of things that affect the rate of ripening.

Unlike Spring, Winter garlic can be propagated with arrows. His teeth grow around the rod, even and always in an even number. And their taste is much more expressive than that of spring.

Winter garlic is somewhat more comfortable to grow. It does not require an early trip to the dacha, like Yarovoy, which means that time can be spent on other work. Reproduction by arrows will save your crop and get rid of pests that settle on cloves. Its increased spice is due to the high content of essential oils, so it is more useful.

Advantages

Positive sides:

comfortable fit;
fast maturation;
high yield;
reproduction with arrows;
more spicy and pronounced taste;
easy peeling.

Flaws

shorter shelf life. Well, if it does not deteriorate before the beginning of January.
May die during wintering if it is too severe (below -25).
Regional sensitivity. Imported from other regions may not perform well.

So that a short shelf life does not become a nuisance, winter garlic is used to the maximum: in conservation, cooking, and a bite with borscht. If the culture is threatened by a harsh winter, it is planted a little deeper to protect it from frost, and covered from above. Buying garlic for planting on the market can be a bad idea: varieties imported, for example, from the southern regions, can show a poor harvest, or even die altogether. Therefore, it would be right to take an interest in local varieties, select the largest ones, and only then independently engage in their selection.

Landing for the winter

Timing

Planted in late September - mid-November, the exact time depends on the region, the colder, the earlier, this should be done 35-45 days before frost. By planting earlier, you will get a greater yield, but if it has time to germinate before frost, it will die, so you need to choose the optimal time. So that the cold does not overtake the plant by surprise, note what kind of spring it was: if it is early, frosts will come earlier than usual. In this case, planting occurs in the first decade of September.

Place

When choosing a place for planting, you need to take care that garlic and onions did not grow here last year, the earth rests from them for 3-5 years. It would be a good idea to choose a site where melons grew: cabbage, squash, pumpkins, zucchini or legumes, but after nightshade it feels bad. By planting garlic next to strawberries and other berries, you can kill two birds with one stone: protect vulnerable crops, and provide the bulb with good conditions, such neighbors she likes.

Treatment

So that troubles do not suddenly happen to garlic in early spring, I process it with potassium permanganate, soaking pre-dried cloves for 2-3 hours. The solution should be pink, this procedure will protect it from diseases. To enhance the effect, you can soak in a strong salt solution, a tablespoon per liter of water for 2-3 minutes, copper sulfate is also suitable, half a teaspoon per 1 liter. water, withstand the same as in salt.

Make sure that the cloves are free from the bottom, otherwise it will interfere with the roots. When planting garlic, keep a distance of 10-15 cm, and between rows 20-25 cm. Place the cloves in the hole gently, with efforts you can damage it, and root growth will be disturbed.

If the frost is expected to be disastrous, below -25, or the winter cover will be weak, care should be taken to cover especially well. For this, dry plants are used, covered with a film, agricultural cloth or other suitable material. With the onset of spring, they get rid of the shelter.

Garden care

Care for planting winter garlic in the spring begins with top dressing: seedlings are flavored with urea dissolved in water in a ratio of 10-15 g per 1 sq. m. of land. When the arrows are stretched to 15-20 cm, they are cut to 5 cm, this is done to increase the yield, several arrows from the largest bulbs can be left for reproduction. To speed up ripening, the soil covering the head is raked.

Productivity significantly (by 35-42%) depends on moisture.

Therefore, caring for winter garlic in the spring includes the very first and most necessary watering, during the germination period. The next stage, which requires an abundance of moisture, is the formation of a head, this moment is determined by the appearance of an arrow. Bulbs that are selected for planting can be watered until harvest, the rest stop watering two weeks earlier.

The humidification regime is designed as follows: from mid-May - early April until July, they are watered once a week, if the weather is rainy, the amount of water is reduced, or not watered at all during this period. In the case of very heavy rainfall, you need to take care of the rows: grooves break through between them, so the liquid will not stagnate and will not destroy the roots.

Garlic is a crop that has good resistance to low temperatures in winter and early spring. To get a good harvest of garlic, you must definitely pay due attention to this crop in the spring. Winter varieties need proper feeding in spring, and spring varieties need proper planting and care.

General principles of care

In order for the first garlic shoots to appear on the beds, it is enough for the air temperature to rise to zero degrees. At a temperature of +5 degrees the plant is already beginning to form denticles. Full ripening occurs in summer, at a temperature of + 20-25 degrees. All these features are very important to consider when caring for garlic in the spring.

As soon as the first shoots appear, all winter shelters from the garden can be removed. As a rule, winter garlic is sheltered from snow and frost with the help of dry foliage and grass, tree branches. If these protective layers are not removed in a timely manner, the germinating shoots of this vegetable crop will begin to deform. In addition, there is a risk of damaging young shoots by careless movement.
With the onset of heat, it is necessary to very carefully loosen the soil between the rows. This will eliminate the dried crust of the earth, which will interfere with the normal growth and development of vegetable crops. In the process of loosening the soil, one should not go deeper into the soil by more than 5-6 cm, so as not to accidentally damage the growing bulbs of plants.
Any varieties of garlic, both winter and spring, require careful watering in the spring. Watering should be very plentiful, because the plant loves moisture very much. To keep moisture in the soil for as long as possible, you can use the mulching of the beds.
If during the growth and maturation of the heads a small amount of precipitation falls, you can water the bed every other day.
Two weeks before the expected harvest, watering the garlic beds should be stopped.

With proper care, gardeners can get very large heads, rich in vitamins and other beneficial substances.

Caring for winter garlic in spring

Proper care for winter varieties in the spring includes loosening, careful watering and competent top dressing. You should start caring for this crop as soon as the snow melts and the first shoots appear from under the ground. As a rule, this happens in mid-April.

Re-feeding of plantings is carried out after 2 weeks. Some vegetable growers recommend reapplying the same fertilizers - urea, slurry or rotted manure.

According to other gardeners, it is better to feed the garlic beds at this time. nitrophoska go nitroammofoskoy. To prepare the fertilizer, you need 2 tablespoons of fertilizer per bucket of water. You can buy ready-made fertilizers in the store - Agricola, Fertility, Effekton.

It is necessary to water garlic in the spring at the rate of 30 liters of water per 1 square meter of beds. It is very important that the topsoil does not dry out during the formation of the bulbs. 2 weeks before harvesting, watering the garlic bed is completely stopped. If you do not need flower heads, all arrows must be removed when they have reached a length of 9-10 cm.

Very important timely remove winter garlic from the garden- this will ensure its good storage. Otherwise, the heads will begin to crack and disintegrate. The garlic cloves will begin to be lost in the soil. Winter varieties should be harvested in July or early August. If the summer turned out to be rainy, winter garlic should be harvested earlier.

Spring garlic care

Spring garlic is planted in the soil in late April or early May, when the snow has completely disappeared from the beds. By the time of planting, the possibility of frost should be completely excluded. The optimum air temperature in the daytime is + 5 degrees. Many gardeners and gardeners pay attention to the phases of the lunar calendar and, in accordance with them, plant garlic in the ground.

Selecting a landing site

To get a good harvest of spring garlic, place must be carefully chosen where you plan to plant it.

Planting spring garlic in the ground

In order for spring garlic to grow and develop faster, you can pre-sprout it before planting in the ground. For this purpose, the teeth are wrapped in a damp cloth or gauze, and then placed in polyethylene for 2-3 days. Germination of garlic cloves is carried out at room temperature. It should be noted that such a procedure is completely optional. Seeds must be thoroughly dried before planting. It is best to plant a crop in April or May. By this time, the snow should completely disappear, and the soil warms up to 5 degrees Celsius. If the soil in the bed is completely dry after a winter with little snow, you must first water the bed.

The plant should be planted to a depth of 5–6 cm. If you have previously sprouted teeth, they must be deepened very carefully, trying not to damage the roots. Immediately after the garlic has been planted, the bed needs to be mulched. The distance between individual planted teeth and between rows should be 20 cm.

spring care

The temperature regime at different stages of growth of garlic will need different:

During the growing season, the optimum temperature is the range from +5 to +10 degrees.
At the stage of bulb formation, the plant will need a temperature of + 15–20 degrees.
Bulb ripening occurs at a temperature of +20 - 25 degrees.

During the formation of the bulbs, water the bed with garlic should be moderate. If the summer turned out to be rainy, you can not water the garlic at all. In this phase of growth, excess moisture will be harmful to the garlic - the bulbs may begin to rot, and there is also a risk of developing a disease.

You can fertilize spring garlic with fertilizers twice. The first feeding is carried out after the snow melts. At this time, the bed is fertilized with a solution of mullein or bird droppings. Fertilizer concentration - 1:10. The next top dressing is carried out in the middle of summer - in June-July. Summer top dressing is carried out with a solution of ash at the rate of 200 grams per bucket of water.

Like any vegetable crop, garlic requires regular loosening of the soil and pest control. You can reduce the frequency of weeding and watering with the help of mulching.