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Aster root system. Planting and care of asters in the open field. Possible problems with seedlings and their solution

Asters are incredibly popular and common flowers that often grow in suburban areas. Having decided on the landing site, having learned to propagate, water, plant these colorful plants, the gardener will be able to organize an incredibly original flower bed.

Asters are one of the favorite plants of our gardeners. Traditionally, annual Chinese asters are grown in summer cottages. Their flowering is always associated with the end of summer - it is not for nothing that the aster is called the "autumn rose"! Meanwhile, today there are a great many species and varieties of this plant that can decorate our garden from spring to winter frosts!

Origin of the aster

Astra means "star" in Latin. Indeed, its thin graceful petals resemble the rays of distant stars. A romantic belief says: if you go out into the garden at midnight and stand among the asters, you can hear a quiet whisper. These earthly "stars" are talking to their heavenly sisters!

The birthplace of the aster is China, where it has been grown in gardens since ancient times. In Chinese culture, this flower has long symbolized beauty, elegance and modesty. Astra was brought to Europe in the 18th century. The first flowers were grown from seeds by the French botanist A. Zhussier and called them "daisy queens". They really resemble daisy flowers, but larger than them. And after a few decades, European breeders bred many new varieties of asters, including perennial ones.

Perennial asters are the closest relatives of the annual Chinese aster, which is widespread in our gardens.

Compared to the majestic flowers of annuals, the flowers of perennial asters are smaller. But there are so many of them on the bush that it looks like a luxurious bouquet! The flowers are collected in baskets and have a wide variety of colors and shades - white, pale blue, pink, purple, bright crimson, red, purple. Especially perennial asters decorate the garden in autumn, when there are no other flowers in the open ground. And bouquets of them stand in a vase for up to 3 weeks!

Perennial asters have a number of significant advantages over annual ones.

Firstly, they look more original, since they are still rarely found in gardens. Secondly, they reproduce easily and quickly settle in new places. Thirdly, they are extremely cold-resistant. Bushes winter well without shelter and withstand frosts down to -5 ° C, continuing to bloom profusely and preserving lush greenery. And, finally, from them you can create magnificent garden compositions that bloom from spring to late autumn!
Let's talk about perennial asters in more detail.

Which types of asters to choose?

To date, about 500 species of perennial asters of simple, semi-double and terry forms are known.

By the time of flowering, the species can be divided into 3 groups. Early bloom in May-June, summer - in July-August. Autumn asters delight us from September to November.

Of the early ones, the alpine aster is especially distinguished, which blooms before all the others already at the end of May. This is a compact rosette plant no more than 30 cm high, forming lovely curtains. It grows well even on stony soils. The main thing for him is a sunny place. Basal leaves remain green even in winter, and medium-sized blue, white or lilac flowers look like modest daisies.

Of the summer species, Italian aster (fricarti) deserves special attention. This is a lush perennial up to 60 cm high. Its leaves are linear-lanceolate, dark green. Baskets of lilac-blue flowers up to 4 cm in diameter are collected in shields. Astra blooms very abundantly and for a long time - from late July to mid-October.

Astra New England (American) forms magnificent bushes with decorative "rough" leaves up to 2 m high. Its inflorescences - carmine-yellow or lilac-pink - are collected in thick brushes of 25-30 pieces. It blooms in September.

Astra New Belgian (Virgin) is also a tall shrub that looks like an inverted pyramid. The plant can reach a height of 1.5 m. The stems of the bush are lignified, highly branched, bare or pubescent. Numerous purple, pink, dark red inflorescences-baskets are collected in panicles. Moreover, flowers - sometimes up to 200 pieces - are placed in 5-6 rows! For flowering in September, this variety was popularly called "September".

Where and how to plant?

Any asters are very photophilous. In the shade, they grow poorly and are easily affected by powdery mildew. Therefore, we plant them in open, well-lit areas. They prefer loamy, medium-heavy neutral soils rich in humus. Most varieties are quite demanding on the availability of nutrients and mineral elements. The soil should be sufficiently moist and loose. Low areas with stagnant waters are not at all suitable for planting. Under these conditions, the roots of plants begin to rot, the leaves become rusty and dry.
Perennial asters grow well in one place for 5-6 years. Then the bushes too

thicken and crowd each other, making flowering difficult. Therefore, they need to be periodically rejuvenated and seated.
Before planting asters, we introduce organic fertilizers into the soil (a bucket of humus per 1 sq. M). We plant tall and spreading varieties in a row at a distance of 60 cm between the bushes and 100 cm between the rows. The distances when planting compact and undersized ones are 30 and 50 cm, respectively. Tall varieties of perennial asters must be tied to a support.

How to propagate?

Annual asters reproduce by seedling and seedless method. We grow seedlings from seeds on windowsills along with other garden plants, and in May we plant them in flower beds and flower beds. With the seedless method, the seeds of annual asters are sown directly into the ground. The seedling method is preferable, since the safety of plants is higher, and flowering begins 2-3 weeks earlier.

Perennial asters can also be propagated by seed. But the seedlings are weak and do not always give good varietal material. It is more reliable, faster and easier to propagate them by dividing the bush or cuttings.

The division of the bushes can be carried out even without digging. We cut off a part of the bush with a sharp shovel, which we then divide with our hands into smaller pieces. Each of them must have a kidney and several roots. Small pieces of rhizomes of rare varieties can first be grown in the “school”, and a year later they can be planted in a permanent place.

For reproduction by dividing the bushes, we choose adult, well-developed bushes that grow in one place for 5-6 years.
Numerous root suckers can also be used as planting material. The division of rhizomes is carried out in spring or autumn - depending on the timing of flowering. Alpine and Italian asters are divided and transplanted in early spring or after flowering. Asters of autumn flowering - only in spring! During the autumn division, bushes of late varieties will bloom only the next year.

Green cuttings also give good results. For cuttings, we use young shoots that appear around the bushes during spring and summer. Cuttings from such shoots take root quickly. Asters grow quickly, forming powerful and lush bushes.

How to care?

The main care for asters is the periodic loosening of the soil. The main thing is to prevent its excessive compaction and the formation of a soil crust. At the same time, we remove weeds in the aisles and near the bushes. Water the plants as needed. Perennial asters experience the greatest need for watering during dry periods and with an increased increase in the vegetative mass. Plants are responsive to the application of phosphate fertilizers and lime, as well as feeding with special mineral complexes during the growing season.

How to use asters in landscape design?

Thanks to the variety of colors and shades, as well as the height and shape of the bushes, perennial asters give us endless possibilities for using them to decorate the garden! For example, two undersized varieties of autumn asters with white and lilac flowers, differing in height by 15-20 cm, look great in the garden as a miniature hedge. Planted in the form of a border, the bushes of these asters decorate the garden with juicy and dense greenery from early spring. And from September until the very November frosts, the mini-wall of undersized asters is covered with a continuous flower carpet!

From dwarf varieties of asters, it is good to make a colored contour frame for a flower bed or a variety of ornaments in the center of a flower garden.

They look great in gravel gardens and rockeries. Alpine asters are great for border plantings, slides, and rocky areas with poor soil.

The Chinese aster has a well-developed root system, so it easily tolerates a transplant at almost any age, even when it is ready to bloom.

Asters look good both as soloists and in a colorful flower choir. You can create a variety of compositions from the same asters, choosing plants to your taste according to the color and height of the bushes. You can plant them in groups with other plants.

The most advantageous combinations are with stonecrops, violets, bergenia, geraniums, as well as small-flowered plants - gypsophila, kermek, iberis.

Tall asters look great in plantings along the perimeter of the site. But their bushes tend to be bare from below. Therefore, it is desirable to arrange a decorative cover in front of them to plant lower perennials that retain foliage for a long time.

The word "aster" is translated from Latin as a star. Such a heavenly name was given to a genus of herbaceous plants belonging to the Asteraceae or Asteraceae family, and consisting of annual and perennial crops. Astra is unpretentious, planting and caring for it is quite within the power of novice gardeners.

Today there are several hundred types of flowers. Their appearance in Europe is associated with a French monk who smuggled the plant from China. An ancient legend said that two monks did not reach the heavens through the Altai mountains, at the foot they saw a meadow with beautiful unusual flowers. Disillusioned with the search for stars, they gave a heavenly name to these plants, dug up a few sprouts and began to grow them in their monastery.

We will talk about how to plant, grow this amazing flower, share some care secrets and pest control methods.

Callistefus or annual aster is known to gardeners as Chinese or garden aster.

Plant description includes:

Aster types of inflorescences

  • stems - branched, simple green, sometimes dark red;
  • leaves - petiolate, alternate;
  • root - powerful with a large number of branches;
  • inflorescences - simple in the form of baskets;
  • the fruit is a seed.

To date, the annual aster is represented by 4 thousand varieties, and many of them are similar to peonies, chrysanthemums and other garden plants. Breeders have attempted to bring order to the groups and varieties of annual asters, but today none of the classifications is ideal.

Aster seeds

To grow asters, purchase seed not only from foreign companies. Domestic seeds are more reliable (for example, they are more resistant to Fusarium) and are designed for our climatic conditions.

Do not buy seeds in the first store you come across. Some unscrupulous sellers put up expired or left seeds for sale. Purchased sometimes in huge quantities, they do not have time to be sold in the first year or two. It is hardly possible to achieve good germination from such seed.

Remember

You need to buy seeds only in specialized stores! No sales in markets, megastores and temporary tents at bus stops!

When buying bags of seeds, check the expiration date. If sprouts do not appear, try buying seed from another store and plant again. The beautiful appearance of aster flowers depends on planting and care.

Seedling method for asters

Annual asters are planted in two ways. The first, seedling, is more laborious, but the inflorescences appear several weeks earlier. If you want to have a lush bouquet of asters in the garden by September 1, choose the first method. It is also suitable for seeds.

To carry out or not to carry out a dive, each gardener decides for himself. Some prefer not to disturb young plants, not to transplant them individually. Moreover, the seedlings grow well in a large group. And when planting in the ground, they simply separate the plants from each other, gently releasing the roots.

Asters seedling care includes weekly top dressing with complex fertilizer. Seedlings are transferred to open soil in May, when they have a strong stem up to 10 cm high and several strong leaves. Transplantation is best done in the evening, so that the young shoots get used to the new place overnight.

Compost or humus is first introduced into the soil for seedlings, wood ash and dolomite flour can be added. Seedlings are well moistened, and then rooted in pre-watered grooves, keeping a distance of 20-30 cm between them. Sprinkle plantings with dry soil.

Landings in open ground

Choosing the second method of cultivation, the seeds are lowered immediately into the ground in May. Moreover, the seeds and seedlings of asters easily tolerate a night temperature decrease to -4 ° C.

Location selection

Asters love sunny areas of gardens, grow well in light partial shade. They prefer light, fertile soils (neutral or slightly alkaline).

Flower beds are prepared in the fall. Why the selected area is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel with the addition of humus or compost (up to 4 kg per m²) to choose from. If the soil is depleted, then per 1 sq. m during spring digging, you can add superphosphate - up to 40 g, ammonium sulfate and potassium salt - 20-30 g each.

Remember

Do not add fresh manure to the soil. This can cause fusarium, and the flowers will begin to wither.

predecessors

Astra Ribbon Red

Experienced gardeners know that in order to get a good harvest, lush flowering, plant crops need to be periodically transplanted to other places. In addition, it is worth carefully choosing sites for those plants that do not tolerate certain predecessors. It is not advisable to plant asters in a place where tomatoes and potatoes have already borne fruit. A flowerbed of asters will not grow well after tulips, carnations, gladioli.

Remember

Asters landing sites need to be changed periodically. The constant presence of these flowers in the same area can lead to diseases.

Before planting asters, small grooves are formed with seeds. Why do they put seeds in them, sprinkling a layer of earth one centimeter thick on top. Water the seedlings with ordinary water, or diluted with potassium permanganate to a slightly pink color.

After planting, in order to avoid rapid drying of the soil, asters should be mulched, for which peat or a special film is used. Use shelter until the first sprouts hatch.

Thin out young asters when the first two true leaves appear. Between the flowers leave a distance of up to 15-20 centimeters. Some varieties require more space. It depends on the height of the flower.

Asters Care

Asters care includes a full range of measures: watering, fertilizing, loosening, disease prevention and treatment in case of disease.

Watering

Good watering is needed for proper flower formation. Do not allow prolonged drying of the soil or severe waterlogging of the area with water. For hot weather, abundant but rare watering at the rate of 30 liters per square meter is preferable. Do not forget to loosen the beds after it.

Remember

The lack of watering leads to the loss of the culture of its decorative appearance.

top dressing

Outdoor care for asters requires mandatory feeding. Only the use of fresh manure, which leads to Fusarium, is not allowed. It will be safer to use mineral fertilizers.

During the season, several top dressings are carried out:

  1. Fifteen days after the rooting of the seedlings or the seedlings reaching a height of 10-15 cm, any complex fertilizer can be applied.
  2. When laying inflorescences, it is better to use either ammonium nitrate or a complex fertilizer with a nitrogen content.
  3. When pushing buds, it is better to take a complete mineral fertilizer.
  4. For the flowering period, mixtures with phosphorus and potassium or wood ash are suitable.

Remember

For the proper development of asters, only potash fertilizers that do not contain chlorine are suitable.

Periodically, you need to water the plants on top with a solution of slightly pink potassium permanganate. This allows you to achieve lush and beautiful inflorescences. But only the stem and leaves are moistened, it is not necessary to pour water on the flowers themselves.

Bloom

After planting, the aster flower can bloom almost until frost. Various varieties form inflorescences from late July to early September.

Flowering time varies:

  1. early varieties require 90 days after germination;
  2. for medium - 110 days;
  3. for later - 130 days.

Asters decorate the gardens until the first autumn frosts. Annual varieties are great for shaping bouquets. When cut, they can keep a beautiful fresh look for up to two weeks.

Transfer

Asters normally relate to transplantation, quickly recovering even after changing their permanent place of growth. Having carefully dug up a flower with an earthen clod, it can be transferred to another site or planted in a container, decorating a yard or balcony. So you can plant new plants instead of dead or faded ones, or you can simply create a new look for the flower garden.

Seed collection

After flowering, asters are burned. It is done in order to destroy harmful insects and various viruses. Collect seeds after wilting and darkening of flowers. The fluff that appears in the center is cut off and laid out in paper bags. Seeds are collected in dry weather. Because wet seeds will require drying.

Remember

Aster seeds are difficult to store, and after a year or two their germination decreases by 2 times. Therefore, take last year's seed material for planting.

Seeds are planted before winter, but in a different area. They are laid along the grooves, and covered with dry humus or peat from above. Seeds can be sown in December and January. Gardeners claim that such sowing is even more reliable, since the material is not afraid of temperature fluctuations. After the snow melts, the area is covered with a film to accelerate germination.

Diseases of asters

A common disease of this crop is fusarium, which manifests itself mainly in an adult plant. A suddenly yellowed flower begins to fade. There are no treatments yet. Therefore, preventive measures, such as crop rotation and crop rotation, are necessarily carried out. Sick plants are destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease.

Other cultures include:

  • The sulfur leg is manifested by blackening of the base of the stem in seedlings and adult plants. Sick flowers are removed, the soil is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.
  • Rust can be identified by swelling on the lower parts of the leaves. For prevention, you should not plant flowers next to conifers. Sick individuals are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. She is already being treated and a sick flower.
  • Jaundice is caused by a virus carried by aphids and cicadas. First, the carriers of the disease are destroyed, and then the flowers are sprayed with insecticides. Affected specimens are destroyed.

insect pests

You can fight insect pests with the help of folk remedies or pesticides. For example, plowed slug can be simply harvested by hand or metaldehyde can be used to destroy it. Plants with spider mites, meadow bugs, scoops are sprayed with karbofos, fosfomycin. Fundazol is used to combat the common earwig.

To prevent the appearance of pests, there are a number of preventive measures.

It includes:

  • digging the earth before winter;
  • destruction of dead and faded plants;
  • the right choice of varieties;
  • improvement of soil quality;
  • observing distances when planting plants.

Asters look great in a flower bed with other flowers. You can choose a certain combination of shades and heights, getting a cascading flower garden. Asters are unpretentious. And having sowed these flowers for the first time in your area, you can fall in love with them for life.

Asters are probably the most popular flowers decorating flower beds, flower beds, garden beds, balconies and terraces in late autumn. The Asteraceae family includes 600 species of colorful annuals and perennials traditionally associated with autumn. They can bloom from spring until the first frost, and the scale of flowers, types of inflorescences allows you to create beautiful flower beds.

In this article you will find information about annual and perennial asters - planting, growing and caring in the open field, plant reproduction, pests and diseases, and other information that is of interest to lovers of this beautiful flower.

plant description

The name aster comes from the Greek word for "star" and refers to the star-shaped, multi-petalled shape of the flowers.

The inflorescence of asters is a real work of art. Around the disc-shaped center, inside the basket, are yellow or pink tubular flowers, which the townsfolk confuse with pistils and stamens. The flower basket itself is formed from the outer leaves, which have different colors - from white to classic purple, but never yellow.


The plant, depending on the species, reaches a height of 20-30 centimeters to 1.5 meters. Most asters are perennials, blooming year after year, except for Chinese varieties.

The following species are most common in our gardens:

  1. shrub asters (Aster dumosus) - thanks to the richness of dark green leaves, they perfectly fill the free space on the borders, bloom for a long time, the height is usually 20-60 cm;
  2. Astra Belgian, New Belgian - varieties of this species have dark green leaves, a large inflorescence with a yellow center, form underground stolons and grow strongly;
  3. New England aster - a tall species, forms large bushes up to a meter high;
  4. alpine - undersized aster up to 40 cm high, flowers appear in June;
  5. aster heather ground cover;
  6. Chinese - there are undersized and tall varieties, the flower is terry.

Among the most common Chinese varieties that actually belong to a separate type of plant, there are biennial and annual species, it is better to ask the seller directly for information on the durability of the variety.

The whole variety of species and varieties is described in detail in the article about.


Soil requirements, planting site

Shrub asters originate from the prairies of North America, they do not pose a problem when rooting even in poor soil. However, most species, especially the popular New England varieties that reach 120-150 cm in height, and New Belgian varieties that bloom from mid-August, are recommended to be planted in moderately moist soil, but never in permanently moist soil.

A necessary condition for growing is an uncompromisingly sunny position. In the shade, these beautiful flowers suffer greatly, which manifests itself:

  1. lack of flowering;
  2. the development of fungal infections.


Landing

Asters are successfully grown from seed. Sowing is carried out in February - in containers. Seedlings are kept in greenhouse conditions, some gardeners on the windowsill, ensuring proper substrate moisture.

You can plant asters with seeds in open ground, as a rule, this is done in May, when daytime temperatures become stable - 10-15 degrees, the likelihood of frost will disappear. It is desirable to add superphosphate to the soil before planting. The planting pattern depends on the variety. On average, you need to observe the distance between plants - 15-20 cm, you can sow the seeds more often, since not all will germinate, then you can thin out the crops.


The correct interval depends on the final size of the bushes:

  • at first, the plants develop very slowly, but their final size does not allow increasing the planting density to more than 3-4 plants per square meter;
  • for smaller shrub varieties, the planting pattern is 8-9 seedlings per 1 m².

Attention! When planting, you can not put compost directly under the roots, you need to place it at the bottom of the pit and sprinkle it with a layer of earth.


Care

Asters have some care features that you should learn about before deciding to grow this ornamental plant.

Garter and trim

Tall varieties require tying, it is important to tie on time. Shoots that have fallen to the ground are difficult to straighten, the whole plant loses its charm due to its irregular shape.

The formation of tall bushes is the periodic pruning of the shoots - if you cut them in half in July, the stems will gain strength and look impressive.

Attention! Such pruning can delay flowering by 2-3 weeks!

When flowers appear (most varieties bloom between August and October), it is worth observing the plant, removing faded flower baskets in time - this will help the development of subsequent buds.

At the end of autumn, when the plant begins to slowly dry out, you need to immediately cut off all the shoots to the surface of the earth.


Watering

Although some varieties of asters can withstand moderate drought, they do much better in conditions of low but constant levels of humidity. Therefore, asters need to be watered regularly during the growing season, especially at the end of summer - lack of water at this time can significantly reduce the number of buds. Watering is carried out 1-2 times a week, depending on weather conditions, gently directing the flow of water under the plant - onto the root system.

Mulching the soil around plants provides additional support by limiting weed growth and keeping moisture in the ground.


Fertilizer and top dressing

Asters are quite "gluttonous" plants that need a lot of nutrients. Their favorite medium is organic compost, which should be mixed into the soil before planting. In the spring and during the flowering period, it is necessary to mix the compost with the soil around the plant with a rake - this will pay off with the beauty of the flowers.

reproduction

Asters can reproduce in several ways:

  1. seeds;
  2. cuttings;
  3. dividing the roots.

Root division

The easiest and most natural way is to separate the root ball. Sometimes this is the recommended procedure, because after a few years, plants growing at the same level thicken.

After digging up the plant in May-June, we carefully divide the roots into several parts, getting rid of the central old shoots. The remaining parts are seated in other places on the flower garden. Each new part must have at least 3 shoots.


cuttings

An alternative method is to propagate asters with cuttings that are produced in the spring. The cuttings are cut, after the rooting of the shoots in the substrate, the young seedlings are moved to a permanent place.

Sowing seeds

Asters are also propagated from seeds. The question often arises when it is better to plant seed-propagated asters. Seeds are planted in containers in spring or summer (April to July). The grown seedlings should be planted in the soil in September.


The planting pattern depends on the species, variety. For example, in order for alpine asters to grow well and compact, they are planted at a distance of 30 × 30 cm.


Diseases and pests

Asters are perennials that usually overwinter in the soil without problems. After cutting the shoots for the fall, you need to cover the root zone with an additional layer of compost soil or bark. Older plants are more likely to fall ill and bloom less, so they need to be rejuvenated every 3 years by dividing the bush as described above.

powdery mildew


A much more serious problem is powdery mildew. This is a fungal infection that attacks asters quite often. The disease is manifested by the appearance of a white coating on the leaves, resembling flour, slightly soaked in water.

Particularly sensitive to powdery mildew varieties of the New Belgian species. Powdery mildew must be controlled using aerosol fungicides, such as Topaz.

fungal diseases

Fungal diseases affecting asters can be prevented by avoiding over-watering and taking care not to wet the leaves while irrigating. The aforementioned separation of the root ball every few years is also a good preventive care.

Jaundice asters

The disease is manifested at the initial stage by yellowing of the leaf along the veins. Then the whole plant becomes yellow-green. Shoots weaken, leaves become thinner. The flowers become yellow-green, distorted.

The disease is caused by phytoplasmas. Reasons for the appearance:

  1. phytomlasma is transmitted mainly by insects;
  2. possible infection during reproduction along with vegetative material.

Phytoplasma cannot develop outside the host. If the plant dies, the phytoplasmas also die. Unfortunately, there are no effective ways to deal with them if the infection has already taken root. Misdiagnosis causes unnecessary and unwarranted use of fungicides or bactericides in home gardens. Sick plants should be dug up and burned.


leaf curl

Wrinkled, curled leaves are a sign of this infection. Viral disease leads to growth inhibition of asters. No drugs will help. Plants must be dug up and burned.

Fusarium (rot)

The disease attacks from the soil, it is in the soil that the source of the infection is contained. Asters turn brown, wither. One solution is to transplant the plant to another, healthy place, because contaminated soil can infect seedlings for several years. Fungicidal spraying is carried out not only on the plant, but also on the soil.

Aphid

Sometimes the aster is affected by aphids. To combat the pest, a soapy solution is used, which must be sprayed 2-3 times a day until the insects recede.

Features of planting and care of various types

shrub asters

When grown, they have moderate requirements:

  • they are easy to propagate - by dividing the root ball, preferably in the spring;
  • grow rapidly after transplantation;
  • in our conditions are characterized by complete frost resistance;
  • for planting choose sunny, not very dry places;
  • on fertile and well-cultivated soils will give exceptional flowering, you need to make an annual portion of compost or manure around the root ball of plants.


New Belgian and New England

Planting and caring for New Belgian and New England asters are slightly different:

  • These varieties of asters are characterized by large sizes. Some varieties in favorable conditions can grow up to 2 meters. Therefore, they are planted in the background. Small flowers with intensely colored flowers pair well with air grasses on large perennials.
  • If it is difficult to distinguish which group a plant belongs to, you need to look at the shape of the root. New Belgian varieties spread rapidly using underground rhizomes. New English form compact roots, do not grow on their own to other parts of the flower bed, flower garden.
  • Both species have many nutritional requirements - they bloom well only on fertile and well-groomed, sufficiently moist soils.
  • Both species are planted only in sunny positions. In a semi-shady place, plants bloom late, not very plentifully.
  • They are propagated like shrub varieties - by dividing the bush.


Alpine

  • Plants prefer warm, sunny positions. They should not be planted in very shady areas, because the bushes will be unattractive, the leaves and stems will turn yellow.
  • Alpine asters reproduce best vegetatively, but can be sown from seeds.
  • Planting and caring for a perennial alpine aster is similar to other species. But it is worth paying special attention to the soil.
  • Plant these perennials in fertile, permeable, alkaline soil.
  • Proper soil pH plays a rather large role in growing this species. Therefore, too acidic soils must be limed before planting alpine aster. Liming should be carried out periodically to maintain the correct reaction of the soil.
  • Alpine asters grow in nature on fairly light, sandy soils. If the soil in the garden is too heavy and wet, it should be lightened by adding sand or fine gravel. This will improve the structure of the soil, provide good drainage - excess water can lead to root rot.


Astra in landscape design

Garden asters are well presented in large clusters, preferably surrounded by tall plants, which additionally protect the stems from the wind. Smaller bushes, up to 20-40 cm high, can be planted on the edge of the rabatka, like a multi-colored strip separating from the lawn.


In compositions, asters are in perfect harmony with perennials that bloom at slightly different time intervals - you can plant tulips or daffodil bulbs between them, they will bloom during the period when the asters will only develop leaves.


  • oriental poppy;
  • fighter;
  • stockrose;
  • muzzle.

Blooming late varieties look beautiful in the company of silver and gray ornamental grasses.


Astra is the most popular and simplest version of a flowering plant in the autumn garden design. It is a mistake to think that you cannot enjoy the charm of a flower earlier - alpine, low-lying species bloom at the turn of May-June! Quite early - in August, New Belgian species bloom, which, in addition to the typical shades, acquire intriguing colors - red and cherry. New England varieties look very impressive, including:

  • red "Ruby";
  • pink "BarsPink";
  • delightful white variety Autumn Snow.



By mixing varieties of asters of different heights and colors in the flower garden, we get an easy-to-maintain, fabulous corner that can be enjoyed until the end of autumn.

In the second half of summer and early autumn, when typical summer flowers lose their splendor, the realm of asters begins in the gardens. Growing asters in the country is very simple. The plant is unpretentious, rarely gets sick, undemanding in care. The variety of cultivars is impressive, and the range of colors and shades of flowers obtained through the propagation process is extremely rich. The plant will decorate any flower garden with a lush, lush color.











Asters are one of the most famous and sought-after flowers in the garden. They have many varieties with different shapes, sizes, color palettes, which is why they attract the attention of landscape designers and ordinary gardeners. Their decorative qualities, as well as unpretentiousness to growing conditions, allow you to create any compositions in flower beds, decorate hedges, decorate balconies and collect amazing bouquets. In ancient times, the flower was considered a talisman, it was often planted near houses and temples, and the ancient Greeks dedicated it to Aphrodite, who personified beauty and unfading youth.

Main types

To date, a huge number of varieties of this plant are known - about 4 thousand, which are conditionally divided into 40 variety groups. But the aster population is not limited to this, and every year the number of newly bred species increases. The classification of a crop is quite complex, including the distribution of varieties depending on various characteristics: color, size, petal shape, flowering time, nature of use, etc. Among the variety, there are the most common varieties, represented by perennial and annual species.

perennial asters

This group brings together representatives of various sizes and colors. Tall ones are used to decorate flower beds, and small ones are used in landscape design for arranging rockeries and alpine slides. Here you can highlight such popular varieties as:

"Marie Ballard"- voluminous bushes, full of blue buds. Flowering can be admired for about two months. The culture is great for cutting.

"Violet"- small compact bushes, often decorating the facades of flower beds. It has beautiful purple with blue flowers that form a continuous cover.

"White Lady"- a one and a half meter beauty, covered with many small white or light pink flowers, looks great on the site, even growing alone.

"Constgans"- stands out for its special branching, the ability to bloom before the onset of frost. It has rich dark purple buds with a yellow core, which form a real "carpet" during flowering.

Bars Pink- a chic shrub that grows up to 1.5 m. Small buds (about 4 cm in diameter) have a pink color, suitable for cutting.

"Dwarf"- undersized, spherical bush, not exceeding a height of two tens of centimeters. Flowering, represented by a large range of colors, lasts from July to late autumn. Due to its compact size, this variety mixture can decorate not only garden plots, but also home flowerpots and balcony boxes.

"Rose"- a great option for bouquets. It has flowers with double petals - flat pink and tubular brown.

"Freakart"- the flowers of these asters look like daisies, but have a beautiful lavender-blue color. The bushes have delicate inflorescences that bloom alternately, creating a long, long flowering.

annual asters

This group includes about 600 species, among which there are representatives of different heights and color spectrum, with different bud sizes and other characteristics. The same group includes simple and terry baskets. Consider several fairly popular beautiful varieties, namely:

"Galaxy"- has terry inflorescences about 8-9 cm in diameter, presented in a variety of colors. Widely used in bouquet compositions.

"Dwarf"- has charming peony white flowers. The bushes are compact, grow up to 30 cm, making them suitable for growing in flowerpots and boxes.

"Symphony"- tall culture, reaching a meter mark. The peculiarity of terry flowers lies in the original color - purple-red petals are framed by an elegant white edging. Flowering is abundant and long.

"Lady Coral"- has large buds about 16 cm in diameter with a variety of colors. Often decorates flower beds, but also looks great in a single version.

Proper care of asters

Caring for asters does not bring much trouble. An important condition for its comfortable existence is loosening and weeding of the soil, which are carried out simultaneously with watering or after heavy rain.

Lighting

Astra feels equally comfortable both in well-lit areas and in partial shade. For more lush flowering, it is still better to choose open sunny areas or balconies facing south. Good lighting is necessary for the plant when it is at the stage of young seedlings.

Temperature

The optimal range for the growth and flowering of the culture is the temperature of +18…+25C. Special temperature conditions must be observed when growing seedlings. Before germination, the container with seeds is stored at a temperature of +20 ... + 22C, with the appearance of the first sprouts, it drops to +15, and when transplanted into large containers, it rises to +23. An adult plant is quite resistant to temperature changes and, in most cases, is able to bloom until frost.

Humidity

Waterlogging of the soil can lead to incurable diseases of the plant, therefore, even when planting, it is necessary to ensure high-quality drainage at the bottom of the planting pit. Perfect for planting light permeable soil with a deep location of groundwater. Spraying is not used - regular watering is enough.

Watering

Astram can equally harm both drying out of the soil and its waterlogging. Watering should be regular, but moderate. In the hot season, you can reduce their number, but with each watering, increase the volume of water - by 1 sq.m. should take about 2-3 buckets. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out loosening in order to provide the root system with an air supply.

Fertilizers and top dressing

Aster is fed to a greater extent with mineral fertilizers. From organic fertilizers, you can choose chicken manure, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20, but it should only be used on poor soils. The first time they introduce top dressing with minerals a couple of weeks after planting in the ground, the next two - during the periods of bud formation and their flowering.

Pests and diseases

The main diseases that can befall an aster include fusarium, black leg, rust and jaundice. Most often, you can encounter Fusarium, which leads to wilting. It is impossible to save culture - it must be removed and burned. In an aster with a “black leg”, the rhizome rots, the bush turns black and fades. The plant is removed from the soil, which is then treated with potassium permanganate. "Rust" is characterized by swelling and drying of the leaves. "Jaundice" is much less common, mainly carried by pests such as cicadas and aphids. It is manifested by the burning of leaf blades, stunting and budding. In this case, spraying with insecticides will help.

Among the pests, the most dangerous are spider mites, meadow bugs, earwigs, aphids and slugs. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to dig the soil every autumn with the removal of the remains of annuals. Chemicals such as foundationol, metaldehyde, karbofos, etc. will help to cope with pests.

The place of the intended landing of the aster must be chosen and prepared in the fall. A sunny area with light fertile soil is better suited, which must be dug up by adding humus or compost, 2 kg per 1 sq.m. In the spring, digging is repeated again, but with the addition of superphosphate (20 g / 1 sq.m). It is advisable to moisten the soil before planting. Bushes are planted in holes at a distance of at least 25 cm from each other, but it can be large, depending on the estimated size of an adult bush of a particular variety. Landing must be sprinkled with earth, but not watered. The first watering should be carried out after 3 days, and after a couple of weeks, nitrogen fertilizers should be added to the soil.

Reproduction of asters at home

The most common method of growing asters, applicable to all species, is to obtain seedlings from seeds. Perennials are often also propagated by cuttings or tuber division.

Reproduction by seeds

Seeds can be planted in open ground in spring when the temperature reaches +20C. Most often, seedlings are grown at home, creating a greenhouse. The container must be filled with a universal composition of the soil, the seeds are planted to a depth of half a centimeter and poured with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Next, cover the landing with glass or polyethylene and place in a warm place with a temperature of about +22. Every day, the greenhouse is ventilated, and the bed is gently watered with warm water at room temperature. After a week, the first sprouts will appear - then the protection must be removed, and the container must be moved to a well-lit place, but with a lower temperature, in order to avoid stretching the sprouts. Dive is carried out with the appearance of the first full-fledged leaves.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings can be carried out throughout the summer. To do this, cut off the top of the plant up to 7 cm long and plant it in a small container (glass) or on a prepared garden bed containing sand and peat in the soil. At home, the cuttings should be located in a dark place. At the time of rooting of sprouts in the open field, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions, so they are covered with plastic transparent bottles. A month later, the plant is considered quite complete.

Reproduction by division

The procedure for dividing a perennial bush is carried out in the spring - then the first flowering can be seen in the autumn of that year. It is necessary to separate the segment from the mother bush so that it has from 3 to 5 shoots and at least one bud with roots. The plant is planted in a prepared hole and sprinkled with a three-centimeter layer of earth, systematic watering is carried out for quick rooting.

Asters are one of the most popular flowers that adorn autumn flower beds, balconies and terraces. Due to the fact that the flower itself is not whimsical, it is easy to care for and grow, and the beauty of flowering is the decoration of the garden for a long time, planting in open ground does not cause problems even for novice gardeners.

This article is devoted to a beautiful flower, it is easy to find all the necessary information and a full range of activities for growing asters: planting, growing and caring, varieties of varieties, family and genus, planting asters in open ground, extermination of pests and reproduction of flowers.

plant description

The plant is a native of China, where its name is Chinese Callistefus, and the meaning of the name from Greek is translated as "star". And not in vain, because the appearance of the inflorescence with its rays, quite logically, resembles a radiant star.

The diversity of the family is filled with more than 600 species of perennials and annuals with simple leaves, with a riot of different colors and with different sizes of buds and bush splendor, so photos of flowers cannot be found the same, they are always different from each other.

Varieties and species differ in the height of the stems and in the color of the buds. Tall, ideal for cutting into a bouquet, and undersized are lush bushes that are densely showered with small buds, which is a real decoration of a flower bed, garden or balcony.

There are as many features as there are types. The fact that they are autumn flowers is a deep delusion of mankind; varieties have long been identified that delight with their flowering from the beginning of spring to the first frost.

Landing

Planting in the garden is not at all difficult, you can just buy a bush of grown seedlings. It is also possible to plant on your own by planting seeds in the spring in the ground. Seeds are bought in a bag in a store or harvested from faded buds in the fall.

Soil Requirements

Growing asters is carried out in moderately moist soil, although many shrubs take root quite comfortably even in poor soil. If you want to get a flowering bush, then it is advisable to fertilize the soil before planting, this can be done with improvised means:

  1. Mineral phosphate fertilizer.
  2. Compost. But it is worth considering that when planting seedlings, it is impossible to place compost on the bottom of the hole in direct contact with the rhizome! You need to sprinkle the compost with earth, and then plant it.

Landing place

Despite the fact that Astra is common in that it is frost-resistant, it needs a sunny place for its beautiful flowering. It is worth noting that if the sun is not enough, it will not bloom at all or fungal diseases will overtake.

Landing in open ground

In May, when frosts are no longer expected, and the temperature regime is set to more than 10 degrees, you can safely sow seeds in open ground. They can be sown often and thickly, and after full ascent, it is necessary to thin out the flower bed.

The planting pattern depends on the final size of the variety. On average, it is necessary to observe 15-30 cm between germinating seeds in order to get a harmonious flower garden.

Aster care

Asters require little care and are unpretentious. It is enough that the land was well prepared during planting, then leaving will not be any particular difficulty. The root system in a comfortable environment will begin active growth, and beautiful flowering will not take long.

Do not forget about fertilizing at least once a season in order to get abundant flowering and the earth is not impoverished. Moderate watering and loosening of the flower bed must also be observed.

Pruning and garter

If the bush is tall, it must be tied up, otherwise the shoots will fall and break, and it will lose its charm.

When the first buds fade and begin to fade, they must be removed. This will promote the formation of new kidneys.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Asters grow well when fertilized with organic compost. In spring and during flowering, compost can be mixed into the soil around the plant.

Watering

Perennials need moderate, moist soil, so they need to be watered as they dry, especially during flowering. Attention care in the garden should be in moderation, excessive watering is dangerous due to rotting of the roots.

Helpful Hint: Mulching the soil around the plant will prevent weeds and trap moisture in the soil.

Bloom

Aster flowers are like a real work of art. The peduncle is represented by a narrow core, which is enveloped by outer leaves resembling the shape of rays. The buds flaunt their bright colors: from white, pink, lilac, to the usual purple colors.

Depending on the variety and family, flowering may occur in autumn, or it may not stop all summer. Perennial varieties bloom from year to year, for a very long time, with the exception of Chinese varieties.

Seed collection

From mid-summer to late autumn, flower stalks can ripen, it all depends on the variety. Self-sowing is weak, usually the boxes do not fall by themselves and are not sown.

In order to collect ripened seeds, it is necessary to wait until the plant has completely faded and, by cutting off the wilted bud in the middle, you can find a fluff. Until completely dry, place it in a paper bag and do not forget to sign.

Seeds of the same year are distinguished by better germination than older seeds, 2 or more years of storage.

reproduction

Depending on the species and variety, reproduction is carried out from seeds and vegetatively. Usually, seeds are propagated very rarely and only annual varieties. Perennial bushes are subjected to the vegetative method - dividing the bush or root.

Root division

As a rule, in early spring, when it is noticeable that the bush has already formed and has a sufficient number of stems. It is necessary to cut through several shoots together with the root system with a sharp bayonet shovel. Thus, separate and plant a section of the bush. There should be 3 to 5 new shoots in the division.

cuttings

Varietal species are propagated by cuttings. The cuttings are placed in specially prepared beds, under the film and always in a shaded place. The earth should be loose with the addition of peat and sand.

Cuttings are carried out in different ways:

  • In spring, fresh shoots are separated from the bush. On the shoot there should be 3 leaves and two internodes.
  • From June to August, when the bush has already gained growth. Apical cuttings are used, with a length of 7 cm.

Sowing seeds

Seeds are sown not deep, about 4 cm into the ground. The earth is well shed with water and buried. From above, you can mulch the soil to keep moisture in the soil. If the weather is cool, then before sunrise and the formation of leaves, the flower bed is covered with covering material.

After full emergence and formation of the stem, it is necessary to thin out the bed, leaving more than 10 cm between the holes. Extra shoots can be planted.

Time to sow

The time for sowing can be determined depending on the principle of cultivation. The main thing is to sow in the spring to admire the beautiful bouquet of flowers in summer and autumn.

In early spring, in March or late April, seeds can be sown for seedlings, in pots or in growing boxes. And in May, when the frosts have already passed, it is already possible to sow, directly, in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Bushes are charged with good immunity, but it happens that perennials are attacked by diseases and pests, as they are in the same soil for a long time. To prevent this, it is recommended to renew the bush at least once every 3 years by dividing the root.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that looks like white wet flour that covers the leaves of plants. Spraying with special fungicides will help in the fight against this sore.

Fungus

Astra is easily susceptible to fungal diseases. If it is impossible to avoid them, then at least preventive measures should be taken to prevent the occurrence of these diseases.

  1. Firstly, when planting a flower, you can not use fresh compost or manure. Only well-rotted compost.
  2. Secondly, before sowing, all seeds are treated with solutions of microelements. The plant is fed with macro fertilizers.
  3. Thirdly, you should not plant a plant densely, this can form stagnation of water on the soil, the root system must be ventilated.

Jaundice

The advantage of insects can cause icteric disease in flowers. It is dangerous because it is contagious. Astra, starting from the leaves, turns yellow and completely takes on a yellow color. The trunks of flowers weaken, the leaves become thinner and wither.

If jaundice is found in your area, the plant must be dug up and burned.

Aphid

In addition to fungal diseases, Astra can be damaged by pests such as aphids, meadow bugs, etc. It is recommended to monitor the plant and, if necessary, immediately treat it with special agents such as chlorophos.

leaf curl

An infection such as leaf curl is not treatable. If suddenly something similar is outlined on an aster bush - the leaves curl and curl, it is urgent to get rid of the plant.

Rotting (fusarium)

Periodic treatment of the plant with fungicidal sprays will not harm, but rather even prevent the appearance of rot. Processing should be done not only plants, but also the soil.

Varieties and types of asters

The families and types of the flower are very multifaceted, they are divided into several groups: annual and perennial, early flowering and late flowering, tall and short. All of them are undeniably beautiful and elegant with the fullness of their colors in the autumn bouquet of the garden.

shrub asters

A low-growing variety, distinguished by the fact that it grows in a spherical bush and has bright colors of buds: from blue to purple flowers. Flowering period in August.

Green thin leaves of a lanceolate shape and frequent shoots give dense pubescence.

New Belgian and New England

Tall ornamental varieties, up to 1.5 meters high. The stems are reddish in color, and the leaves are deep green. Peduncles are paniculate and consist of many baskets. Flowering period in late autumn until frost.

The peculiarity of the varieties is that they grow strongly, they must be protected from the wind and it is best to tie them up, since the bush falls apart in all directions due to its height and weight.

Alpine

Perennial variety and one of the most common. It is a small compact bush no more than 30 cm high. It is interesting in that it does not die off for the winter, and goes under the snow in its green color.

The leaves on the peduncles are arranged in one row, which gives the bud a zest and uniqueness. They are not fluffy and not voluminous, which makes the peduncle very different from other varieties. The Alpine genus is considered spring, since flowering begins in May and lasts no more than a month.

Coronal

This type is special for its double blooms, which consist of a lush core and several rows along the edge. A riot of colors attract attention and always look spectacular in a bouquet of flowers.

Reed

This is a class of cultivars and varieties. His group includes only those that have leaves on the buds like tongues. The bud is lush, hairy. All its beauty and uniqueness can be seen at the moment of its full bloom.

Curly

This type of flowers has ribbon, reed inflorescences, which concisely curl at the ends and give the bud a special luxury and charm.