What not to plant strawberries with. What to plant next to strawberries. Carrots and the ideal growing environment

Strawberries are one of the most labor-intensive berry crops. But also one of our children’s favorite berries. Therefore, it is imperative to plant it on your site. The health of the bush, as well as future harvests, depends on proper planting.

Where to plant strawberries

Strawberries should grow in loose and breathable soil with low acidity (pH - about 5.5). Various soils are suitable for the crop; in this sense, it is not very demanding: it thrives on chernozems, loams, and sandy loams. But any land must be well-filled with organic and mineral fertilizers. It is necessary to protect the plantation from cold winds. Neither dry nor swampy areas are suitable for planting strawberries. Groundwater should not be closer than 1 m to the soil surface.

On light soils with a lack of watering, strawberries suffer from drought, and on heavy clay soils they grow poorly and produce low yields.

The terrain of the site should be more or less flat. It is possible to plant on small slopes (angle no more than 2°), preferably in a southwestern direction, but it should be remembered that in low areas strawberries suffer greatly from frost. You should immediately take into account that strawberries will grow in the chosen place for a maximum of 5 years. Usually, after the third year, productivity decreases sharply, and by the age of 5, its further cultivation becomes impractical. Therefore, it can also be planted between the rows of newly planted fruit trees: by the time they grow up, the strawberries are removed.

The optimal predecessors for strawberries are cabbage, radishes, various salads, legumes, onions, garlic, carrots, and clover. Raspberries and nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes) are not suitable for this purpose.

Clover is the best predecessor for strawberries

What not to plant next to strawberries

Almost anything can be planted next to strawberries, except plants that produce a lot of shoots: raspberries, blackberries, plums, cherries. And we must not forget about the “selfish” ones - apricots and walnuts. These monsters pull all the juices out of the ground many meters away from them. Among vegetable plants, this list should include horseradish, which usually grows over the entire available area.

Among vegetable crops, the best neighbors are basil, salads, beans, onions and garlic. Good results are obtained by combining strawberries with cucumbers, parsley and cruciferous crops: radishes, radishes, and various types of cabbage.

Garlic and onions emit phytoncides, and slugs do not like parsley. True, there is an opinion that due to the pungent smell of bulbous plants, there will be fewer bees on the plantation pollinating strawberry flowers, but the protective effect of onions and garlic is much more important, and pollination of strawberry flowers, as a rule, occurs very easily; there are almost no barren flowers on this crop .

Garlic goes well with strawberries, repelling insect pests

The timing of planting strawberries depends on the region:

in the southern regions it is better and more convenient to plant it in the spring, from the end of March to the beginning of May. October planting also works well in the south;
in the middle zone, planting is carried out at the end of summer (until mid-September);
in the northern regions - from late July to mid-August (and often in spring).

Planting strawberries is possible throughout the summer; Only flowering bushes do not take root well. The earlier strawberries are planted in the summer-autumn period, the better they will take root, overwinter and produce a larger harvest the next year. However, the timing of planting depends on the availability of planting material - whiskers, and without special measures they grow in sufficient quantities and of good quality only by the end of summer.

in spring

Strawberries are almost always propagated by seedlings, i.e. rooted rosettes forming on the whiskers. The best seedlings have 3–5 well-developed leaves and roots no shorter than 6–8 cm. The largest number of whiskers is produced by 1–2 year old plants. Older bushes have low quality tendrils and are not worth taking.

Planting stages:

The bed is prepared in advance, preferably in the fall. When digging, humus and compost must be added, adding mineral fertilizers - phosphorus and potassium, as well as wood ash.
Among potassium fertilizers, it is better to choose those that do not contain chlorine (potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium, potash).
For disinfection, one day before planting, the prepared beds can be watered with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per bucket of water), consumption - about 1 liter per 1 m2. Before planting the bushes, water the beds well.
Plant strawberries in cloudy weather. If it is still hot, the lower leaves of the seedlings should be torn off, and the plants should be shaded with grass or newspapers for the first week and watered more often.
Before planting, strawberry seedlings are disinfected: placed in water at a temperature of about 45 o C for 10–15 minutes. Chemical disinfection is also practiced: a 10-minute bath in a solution prepared from 3 tbsp. l. table salt and 1 tsp. copper sulfate in a bucket of water.
Sometimes the roots are dipped into a mash of clay and mullein before planting, as in the case of planting fruit trees.
You can add another handful of humus to each dug hole. Then the roots of the seedlings are placed there, distributed freely and covered with soil, compacting it with your fingers. It is necessary to ensure that the apical bud (heart) is level with the ground surface.
Again, carefully water each bush (about 1 liter of water per plant).
At first, water frequently, not allowing the soil to dry out.

When planting strawberries, the heart does not need to be covered with soil.

in autumn

In most areas of the middle zone, summer-autumn planting is preferred. It must be completed before mid-September, otherwise the bushes will not have time to take root before frost and will not survive the winter. It is best to plant them gradually, as the planting material in last year’s bed is ready, unless, of course, you have got yourself a separate queen cell. The best mustaches are those that grow first from strong bushes. If they aren't easy to pull out, you can probably cut them off, dig them up, and replant them.

The planting technique is no different from spring, but there is a little more time to prepare a new bed.

Advice. It is convenient to have 4–5 beds for strawberries. Garlic is planted on one of them at the end of September. The next year in July they remove it and prepare a bed for strawberries. As the mustache appears, they are planted in this place. After a few years, the strawberries become old, the bushes can be destroyed, and garlic can be planted in the garden bed.

The planted mustache will give a small harvest next year. It will be much bigger for the second season. But it should be remembered that fruit buds are born in the year preceding fruiting, so high-quality care of the plantings is constantly necessary.

Video: secrets of autumn planting strawberries

Lunar calendar for planting strawberries

Some summer residents firmly believe that it is necessary to follow the rhythm of life of the heavenly bodies when planting and caring for them. Astrologers consider the following dates in 2018 favorable for planting strawberries:

April 30;
May 10;
July 30–31;
August 7–10.

How to plant strawberries

Before planting strawberries, lim the soil in advance if it is too acidic. But this should be done a year before the event. It is necessary to dig the bed at least 2-3 weeks in advance so that biological balance has time to establish in the soil. When digging, it is best to add well-rotted manure or compost to the soil.

Good results are obtained by preliminary sowing of green manure (peas, oats) on future strawberry beds. At a young age, they are dug up from the ground with the simultaneous application of mineral fertilizers.

Strawberry planting scheme

Strawberries can be planted in various patterns (carpet, strip, square-nest, etc.). Their choice depends on many factors, but above all on the region, the topography of the site and the preferences of the gardener himself. When planting strawberries at the generally accepted time in summer cottages, a single-row method is most often used: bushes are planted with a distance between rows of 50–70 cm, between plants in a row - from 10 to 30 cm (depending on the variety).

Some gardeners try to isolate each bush, removing all the tendrils that appear; others grow strawberries using a narrow-strip system: the tendrils are rooted without separating them from the mother bush, positioned along the row. This creates a strip of plants about 30–40 cm.

The arrangement of strawberries depends on the topography, climate, and gardener preferences.

Some hobbyists plant 3 rows on beds about 1 m wide. The next year, after the first harvest, the middle row is destroyed, and in its place, annual early-ripening vegetables (salads, radishes) are sown as a compactor, or onions, garlic or bulbous flowers (daffodils, tulips) are planted in one row. For any planting scheme, it is better to orient the ridges from north to south.

In addition to the usual methods of planting and maintaining strawberries, there are also a lot of “exotic” ones that help save space, decorate the site, and smooth out unfavorable climate conditions.

Carpet method

Some say that the carpet method of keeping strawberries is suitable for lazy people: it requires less effort and time. True, the berries are smaller, although no less tasty. Therefore, the method can be recommended to gardeners who do not have enough time to care for strawberry beds and care for each bush.

With the carpet method, the mustaches are planted without following any pattern, only an increased amount of fertilizer is first added to the soil. Strawberries, growing, cover the entire plantation with a continuous carpet. The tendrils are left untouched, and new plants grow from them randomly. Their own microclimate is created under them. A continuous strawberry carpet suppresses the growth of weeds and less moisture evaporates. It happens that a carpet of strawberries successfully bears fruit for up to 10 years.

When planting strawberries in carpets, it is difficult for weeds to break through the cover.

For agrofibre

For several decades now, the industry has been producing lightweight non-woven synthetic materials from harmless polymers, most often polypropylene. In a bed with covering material, almost no weeds grow, and the soil retains moisture longer. The most common nonwoven material is spunbond, produced in several versions that differ in surface density. When planting strawberries, spunbonds with a density of 45–60 g/m2 are used. Lighter options can withstand less than 2 seasons of use. Spunbond allows you to significantly reduce the number of waterings: even in hot weather, moisture lingers in the ground for a week.

The film will lie on the bed for several years; access to the soil at this time is difficult. Therefore, you immediately need to apply an increased amount of fertilizer: for every 1 m2 up to 3 buckets of well-rotted manure.

The procedure for arranging the beds:

Agrofibre is laid out on the bed.
The edges of the film around the perimeter of the bed are sprinkled with earth or secured with any convenient objects.
Cross-shaped cuts are made at the site of future bushes. They should be very small and only needed to insert the roots into them.
A hole is manually made under the film and the roots of the bush are carefully placed in it.
Well watered.

Non-woven material protects berries from contamination, retains moisture, and prevents weeds from growing

Vertical fit

Vertical cultivation of strawberries has a lot of options and is used in cases where the area of the plot is very modest (in particular, it is used in greenhouses or in a city apartment). The beds are made from a variety of materials, sometimes completely unpredictable: for example, planting is practiced in plastic pipes, in plastic bags, in car tires mounted in a pyramid.

There are many options for vertical planting of strawberries.

The soil for this method of planting is prepared in any large container in advance and must contain an increased amount of nutrients. It is advisable to calcinate or disinfect the soil taken from the garden. The soil is placed in the manufactured structures and strawberry mustaches are planted. Caring for vertical beds is normal, but you need to monitor the soil moisture more carefully: you may need to water much more often.

Pyramid planting

Pyramid planting is one of the options for vertical growing. Pyramids are made, for example, from boards of suitable size. Strawberries are planted in the structure in several tiers. The method is most suitable for remontant strawberries.

To organize a pyramidal bed, 4-5 wooden boxes of different sizes are knocked together from boards without a bottom. The height of each is 20–25 cm.
To organize irrigation, you need a piece of pipe with a diameter of 2 cm and a length of up to 2.5 m. Holes are made in it along almost the entire length for water to flow.
The pipe is driven vertically into the ground.
The largest box is placed on top of the pipe so that it is exactly in the center, and placed on the ground, slightly buried.
Pour the prepared soil into it and compact it a little.
Then the next boxes are installed in the same way as their size decreases.
A piece of irrigation pipe should remain above the last tier: a hose is placed on it when watering.
Plant mustaches around the entire perimeter of each box and care for the seedlings as usual.

A pyramid of wooden boxes takes up little space and allows you to care for strawberries without bending over

How to plant strawberries in tires

As an option for a vertical bed, it is made from car tires. The structure can have any convenient height; the tires have sufficient stability. The essence of the technique is the same as when using wooden boxes: several tires are used. But they can be the same or different sizes: depending on this, you get a cylinder or a cone.

The tires are placed on top of each other, filling the soil inside. If they differ greatly in diameter, a pyramid is obtained, and the mustaches are planted around the entire perimeter, as in boxes of different sizes. In the case of identical tires, small holes are first cut into them, into which the seedlings are planted.

You can make a “car” bed for strawberries

Planting ampelous strawberries

Ampel strawberries are one of the varieties of ordinary garden strawberries. It has decorative pink flowers. But the main difference is that ampelous strawberries bear fruit simultaneously both on the main bush and on numerous tendrils. In addition, it is capable of producing berries all year round. Therefore, in our conditions, it is usually planted in greenhouses or in apartments.

Sometimes such strawberries are called “climbing”, although this is not true: it cannot behave like a vine, but it is usually grown in vertical plantings, that is, the mustache is tied to some kind of support. In this case, the side rosettes grow down from the main bush.

In an ampelous strawberry, the mustache with berries falls down

The arrangement of a vertical bed for hanging strawberries can be anything, but the dimensions of the planting container must be at least 30 cm in all dimensions. Drainage must be placed at the bottom: broken bricks, small pebbles. Only then is nutrient soil laid: peat and turf soil (2:1) and a little river sand. Planting is normal, but more water will be required for irrigation.

Emerging flowers are pruned to make the bushes more powerful. Up to 5 mustaches are left on the plant. Fertilizing is carried out mainly with mineral fertilizers. Ampelous strawberries do not react well to sunlight, so they require additional shading.

In peat tablets

Seed propagation to obtain strawberry planting material is not used, since the seedlings are split into numerous varieties. Sowing of seeds is carried out only to develop new varieties. One of the methods for growing strawberries from seeds is the use of peat tablets.

Tablets are produced industrially by pressing dried natural peat with the addition of complex mineral fertilizers and growth stimulants. To sow strawberry seeds, use tablets with a diameter of 2 to 4 cm.

Peat tablets are made with the addition of complex mineral fertilizers

Purchased seeds are soaked, hardened in the refrigerator and sown in peat tablets in early spring. Caring for the soon-to-emerge seedlings is similar to caring for any vegetable seedlings. In summer, grown bushes are planted in open ground along with the tablet. This guarantees 100% survival rate, since growth is practically uninterrupted, and strawberries, if they were also gradually hardened before planting, do not experience problems.

On toilet paper

There are various ways to grow planting material without using soil - using “hydroponics”. In this case, various inert materials serve only as a “holder” for seeds and future seedlings, and nutrients are added in the form of specially prepared solutions. One such material can be regular toilet paper. They make a kind of “snail” from it, and seeds are placed there. However, this technique is so complicated for the average summer resident that it hardly makes sense to recommend it for widespread use. But toilet paper is very convenient to use for pecking and initial germination of seeds.

Place three layers of toilet paper in any convenient container.
Spill with a purple solution of potassium permanganate. Excess solution is poured out.
Seeds are laid out on paper.
The container is placed in a large plastic bag and taken out into the cold to harden for 3-4 days.
After this, place it directly in the bag in a warm place.
For about a week you need to monitor the moisture content of the paper and, if necessary, lightly spray it.
The seeds hatch, and after 3 days a root grows through the paper. Now there is no need for paper: it has done its job.
Seeds should be planted in pots or boxes with regular nutrient soil. When planting, it is convenient to use tweezers or a toothpick. Carefully take the seed by the cotyledon, make a small hole with a toothpick and lower the root there.
Water very carefully: after filling the holes, just spray it with a spray bottle.

Strawberries are grown from seeds to develop new varieties

"Smart bed"

In gardening, the term “smart garden bed” refers to an area enclosed by a certain frame, within which a bed for planting is “properly” equipped. They are often called tall or “warm”.

Scheme of the “smart bed” device:

The frame can be made of boards, flat slate or sheet iron.
Place them in a sunny place. Place the frame in a shallow hole (up to 20 cm) dug over the entire area of the bed.
A layer of cardboard or thick fabric is placed at the bottom to make it difficult for weed seeds to germinate.
Then a layer of small branches is laid along with various organic waste.
All this is sprinkled with fertile soil and compost.
On top is a layer of clean compost or old humus.

The result is a self-living container, inside which optimal temperature conditions are maintained. The height of the bed depends on how the frame will be made: the most convenient is from 25 to 40 cm.

In areas with excessive rainfall, it is worth making holes at the bottom of the frame to drain excess water.

The described technique is often combined with the use of agrofibre. The constructed bed is covered with thick spunbond and strawberries are planted in small holes made in it.

For greater effect, the “smart bed” is covered with agrofibre

Planting strawberries in the regions

The technology for planting strawberries in all regions is almost the same, but the climate makes significant adjustments, mainly in the timing of planting the mustache in a permanent place. In addition, the humidity regime varies greatly in different areas, as well as the methods of preparing planted seedlings for winter.

In outskirts of Moscow

Many summer residents near Moscow now do not plant strawberries due to a poor harvest, and also because they require a lot of effort and time. Caring for strawberries in this region is practically no different from that in most regions of our country: the climate throughout the middle zone is quite favorable for strawberries.

In the Moscow region it is better to plant strawberries in the second half of summer. Before the onset of frost, the seedlings will take root well and even lay flower buds. The deadline for planting is early September. Strawberries are often planted in high beds, and if there is no time, they are grown as a carpet.

Optimal early varieties of strawberries:

Zarya;
Moscow delicacy;

Beauty of Zagorje;
Hope;
Festival;

Alpha;
Zenga-Zengana;
Cinderella.

Strawberry Zenga-Zengana - one of the most popular varieties

In the Moscow region, good timely snow cover is not guaranteed, so plantings must be sprinkled with mulching materials. In winter, you sometimes have to add snow from empty spaces onto the strawberries.

In Siberia

The harsh weather conditions of Siberia require that you take strawberry care seriously. Increased attention should be paid to the choice of varieties and planting location.

It is preferable to plant strawberry seedlings of local varieties:

Mascot;
Festival;
Omsk early.

Southern varieties will have to be grown only in greenhouses, and this requires additional funds and physical effort. Remontant varieties are often planted, harvesting 2–3 crops from them per summer.

Choose the warmest place for the beds: a flat area or a small southern slope. Typically, a narrow-band single-line landing method is used. All tendrils that grow no further than 10 cm from the row are rooted in place, forming strips up to 25 cm wide.

In Siberia, they try to plant strawberries in the spring so that the bushes have time to grow well by winter. If there is a threat of early frosts, young plantations are covered with film, spunbond or spruce branches.

In Krasnodar region

The climate in all regions of Kuban is relatively uniform, although it differs slightly depending on the proximity of the sea. But in general, everything here is favorable for growing strawberries. The natural conditions of the Black Sea zone of the Krasnodar Territory are somewhat different from the entire region, but they are even better for planting crops. This is the warmest and wettest place in the region. Under these conditions, strawberries grow almost all year round. In Kuban it is usually planted in March or from mid-August to the end of September.

Strawberries here grow on any soil, but best of all on light soil, especially on the southern slopes. Sufficient rainfall allows strawberries to be successfully grown between the rows of young trees. Agricultural technology for planting and care is the most common.

In the conditions of the humid and warm subtropical zone, the period of autumn planting is very long: sometimes until the arrival of winter. The best time is mid-October. Spring planting is also often used. The winters here are very mild, and no preparatory work is required to protect strawberry plantations from frost: only weeding and loosening are needed.

» Vegetable garden

When planning garden beds, it is important to consider the compatibility of vegetable crops. Gardeners have more than once had to deal with the problem of low yields in the absence of any prerequisites for this. And the reason may be trivial - an inconvenient neighborhood, so you need to know what can be planted with and what not.

This article reveals all the secrets of arranging a vegetable garden, because the growth and development of both crops depends on which plant is planted in close proximity, and what is important is their fruiting.

When landing, taking into account compatibility, it is quite possible increase productivity by 15-20%. You should be especially careful when choosing a neighbor when placing several types of vegetables in one garden bed or greenhouse.

Approximately the same growing conditions make it easier to care for shoots:

lighting intensity;
watering mode;
preparing the soil for planting;
introduction of fertilizing.

If you plant bad neighbors- this is fraught with the following consequences:

attracting insects that create many problems for young shoots;
fungal infection as a result of waterlogging;
the negative impact of waste products, as a result of which the neighbor develops poorly or stops growing.

Experienced gardeners use invaluable knowledge in practice, annually observing the interaction of nearby plants.

To make planning easier, they draw up a plan for the garden, dividing it into beds for vegetables and berries before planting. Thus, the rules of crop rotation and the laws of compatibility in open ground are taken into account.

What can you plant next to potatoes?

One of the most popular vegetables, which is included in the list basic products for winter preparations. Before it is planted, its predecessors are taken into account.

The best are considered:

carrot;
green manure;
cucumber;
legumes;
pepper;
cabbage;
beet.

Not worth it use the same area annually, it will not be possible to get a good harvest with such a layout. Low rates of fruiting of potatoes are also noted if they are placed on a former tomato bed.

In relation to its neighbors, the plant shows more tolerance than mutually beneficial consolidation. The best compatibility is noted only with beans.

The vegetable does not like to be friends with cucumbers, onion sets, tomatoes and cabbage. And you definitely shouldn’t place potatoes nearby: peas, beets and celery. The root crop gets along well with other plants.

Neighbors for tomatoes

A favorable place for growing tomatoes is considered to be areas where the following crops were previously grown:

cauliflower;
turnip;
cucumber;
greenery;
carrot;
beet.

Among worst predecessors: potatoes, peas and zucchini. According to the rules of crop rotation, vegetables are planted in the same place after 3-4 years, therefore, you should not use a former tomato bed for tomato seedlings.

beans;
radish;
corn;
radish;
cabbage;
pepper;
onions and other green vegetables.

There is no negative impact on tomatoes from neighboring beds with parsnips, strawberries, kohlrabi, lettuce, and spinach.

Planting peppers with other vegetables

When planting pepper, it is worth considering its varietal characteristics. Sweet, Bulgarian and bitter varieties are placed separately from each other to prevent cross-pollination. The most suitable predecessors are:

legumes;
cabbage (early varieties);
greenery;
cucumbers;
wheat (winter);
perennial herbs.

Not worth it choose areas after potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes and physalis. When growing other plants in the planned bed, there are no strict restrictions on pepper.

Arranging a bed of peppers Can close to the following crops:

carrots;
basil
onions;
coriander.

If you plant marigolds, oregano, and nasturtium for decorative purposes or as a preventative against pests, then the pepper will simply smell fragrant from such companions. And you should avoid proximity to fennel, beans and kohlrabi.

cucumbers

The soil environment is more suitable for growing greens after cabbage and tomatoes. And the predecessors from the pumpkin family are the most undesirable.

Has a positive effect on the yield of cucumbers dill, so it is taken not only as a companion, but also sown interspersed.

The following have a beneficial effect on the development of crunches: onions, beans, peas, garlic, spinach. Calendula placed between the rows will create reliable protection against insects feeding on young cucumber foliage.

Recommended from proximity to potatoes, radishes and tomatoes refuse, plants have a negative effect on each other.

Cabbage

Cabbage planting is planned after peas, beans, cucumbers. Do not spoil the soil environment: peppers, carrots and herbs. And fodder beet and other representatives of cruciferous crops are considered bad predecessors.

It’s easy to choose a cabbage companion for your immediate surroundings fit many plants:

beet;
beans;
sage;
celery;
dill;
salad.

It is allowed to plant flowers and herbs: oregano, chamomile, nasturtium, mint, etc. Won't fit strawberries and tomatoes as companions.

Good neighbors for carrots in the garden

When choosing a place for sowing carrots, preference is given to the following predecessors:

cucumbers;
tomatoes;
potato;
cabbage;
leek;
greenery;
legumes

Experienced gardeners notice that after zucchini, celery, parsnips and parsley it turns out bad harvest carrots, the root crop develops poorly, as if it lacks nutrients (although fertilizing is introduced according to schedule).

The carrot bed should be planned in close proximity from such crops:

garlic;
tomato;
radish;
peas.

Sage, marigolds and scorzonera can be planted between rows to repel pests.

Unfavorable neighborhood celebrated with beets, beans and dill. Carrots get along with other plants without any problems.

Zucchini

Everyone's favorite zucchini bear fruit well on the soil after legumes and early varieties of cabbage. Do not spoil the structure of the soil and the environment: greens, onions, garlic.

And such predecessors as carrots, tomatoes and cabbage of late ripening are considered most unsuccessful.

Zucchini (squash) can be safely planted next to the following plants:

beans;
corn;
peas;
beans.

Pumpkin

Disembarkation rules pumpkins in many ways similar to zucchini, they have the same recommended predecessors. However, the neighborhood is slightly expanded; additional tomatoes, radishes and sunflowers can be planted.

The pumpkin crop only tolerates potatoes. Gets along well with other plants.

Beet

Beet sowing can be done on former beds:

carrots;
potatoes;
cucumbers;
Luke;
greenery

The root crop develops well after green manure. In addition, after such a change in layout, there is a decrease in weed growth.

Beets and onions are a good combination

You can safely add: cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, and onions to beets. To repel insects, you can plant catnip, mint, oregano between the rows.

potato;
corn;
spinach;
bulb onions;
carrot.

Growing in a garden with other neighbors does not cause any particular concern.

Where to plant strawberries in open ground

Strawberry crop does not show capriciousness to the soil environment, so there will be no difficulty in choosing a place for planting young shoots. Useful precursors for strawberries are:

parsley;
radish;
garlic;
legumes;
corn;
carrot;
dill, etc.

You should refuse to use a plot for strawberries if there is were previously grown:

potato;
tomatoes, peppers;
eggplant;
cabbage;
raspberries

Arranging vegetable beds, as neighbors for strawberries it is recommended to choose:

spinach;
salad;
radish;
cabbage;
carrot.

The sweet berry will also be comfortable with other plants, since there is no obvious competition between them.

What crops are suitable for proximity to eggplants?

When choosing a place to plant eggplants, preference should be given to the following predecessors: onions, cucumbers, early ripening cabbage, perennial herbs.

From former beds with potatoes, tomatoes, physalis and peppers it's better to refuse. It is also necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation, It is impossible to place and grow a crop in the same place every year(an interval of at least 3 years is observed).

When planning an eggplant bed Can select as companions:

peas;
beans;
basil;
salad;
tarragon;
thyme.

The representative of the nightshade family gets along quite well with the rest of its neighbors. The blue ones have no special prohibitions on combining.

Peas and beans

The best predecessors For peas and beans, root vegetable crops, cabbage, and representatives of the pumpkin family are considered. The legumes themselves create the most favorable environment in the soil when growing, so after them you can grow almost anything.

Not worth it When organizing a bed after sunflower, the quality and yield are significantly reduced due to fungal infections and contamination with carrion.

When selecting companions, first of all, the proximity to each other (peas and beans) is excluded. This is caused by several factors:

attracting pests;
interweaving of stems;
possibility of cross-pollination.

The most suitable for close proximity are:

kohlrabi;
carrot;
salad;
radish;
celery;
corn;
cabbage;
potato.

Planting with other crops has no special restrictions.

Greenery

When selecting precursors for greens (onions, dill, parsley, garlic, cilantro), preference should be given to legumes and vegetable root vegetables.

Not recommended plant greens after umbrella crops; the relatedness of the plants indicates their identical nutritional needs. Because of this, the yield will decrease significantly every year.

Close to green planting can be placed beds with cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, strawberries, peppers and other green vegetables. Definitely not suitable for growing together: carrots, parsnips, tomatoes. The proximity of greenery to early varieties of potatoes and representatives of legumes is allowed.

Crops table

It is useful to supplement the gardener’s diary with a table of compatibility of crops grown on your site.

In red indicates incompatibility of cultures, green- the most favorable neighborhood for development and fruiting. Colorless window indicates the neutrality of interaction between plants, which does not exclude their proximity in the garden.

There is absolutely no difficulty in planning beds if you think everything through in advance. Autumn tillage should be carried out taking into account the agricultural technology of those vegetables and berries that will be grown on it in the next season.

Vegetable growers often try to plant as many crops as possible in a small garden plot, so they sow several varieties of vegetables in one bed at once. For example, take the most common garden berries - strawberries. Sowing the seeds of these juicy and tasty fruits, gardeners are wondering what can be planted next to strawberries, but only so as not to harm them? You can plant a lot of vegetables with this crop, but you need to know which ones are suitable and which ones will only harm its growth and reproduction.

In general, strawberries are completely unpretentious, so they tolerate the proximity of many crops. For example, strawberries take root very well next to flowers such as iris and tulips. It is these flowers that contribute to the good growth of strawberries, increasing their yield several times. In addition, tulips and irises help strawberries to withstand cold winters more easily. The varieties of remontant strawberries are especially fond of these flowers. To plant flowers next to a berry crop, no special knowledge is required and it is done very easily. Moreover, with strawberries, you can plant other garden flowers in the same bed - such as clematis, nasturtiums, marigolds, carnations, ferns, peonies, delphinium, mint, jasmine and many other flower crops that are no less useful for the development of strawberries.

Strawberries feel favorable near various trees and shrubs. These include vineyards, spruce, pine, raspberries, and sea buckthorn. All these plants have a beneficial effect on berries. But if you plant strawberries close to a birch tree, the berry will die without producing any harvest.

You can enjoy excellent harvest results by planting strawberry bushes in the same bed with beans and peas, tomatoes and radishes, onions and garlic, white cabbage and fodder beets. An excellent enhancing effect comes from proximity to some green crops, which include sorrel, parsley, lettuce, spinach and basil.

If a vegetable grower wants to grow very tasty and sweet strawberries, then during the period of formation of the berries he needs to carry out soil mulching with spruce and pine needles. There are a few more little secrets, knowing which a vegetable grower can reap a large harvest of strawberries.

Professional gardeners know that onions and garlic have protective properties, and various slugs are afraid of parsley, therefore, by planting them next to strawberry bushes, you can not be at all afraid for the harvest of berries, since they will be completely safe. Also, the proximity of strawberries to onions gives the berries rapid growth and rapid reproduction. By planting strawberries and onions in one area, the gardener will forever get rid of the problems of rotting berry bushes.

In general, we can say that lovers of this delicious food can experiment without any fear or doubt. Almost all vegetables coexist next to the berry, just as strawberries can make friends with any crop.

When planning to grow strawberries, you must first find out what can and cannot be planted next to this crop, and after which predecessors the berry will grow best.

Then plant the berry garden

Strawberries will grow well after parsley, carrots and turnips. Good predecessors are legumes, spinach and beets. You can plant rosettes after bulbous flowers. For example, strawberries grow very well after daffodils.

You should not plant this crop after potatoes and nightshades.

What is better to plant nearby?

Strawberries are friends with almost all flowers. An excellent neighborhood is toffees and tulips. Experienced gardeners even say that such a neighborhood has a good effect on productivity. Remontant strawberries will feel especially good next to the flower garden.

Next to this berry garden it is useful to grow jasmine, absolutely all types of ferns, as well as peonies and nasturtiums.

A wonderful companion for strawberries are marigolds, which will not only decorate the beds, but also help repel pests. Marigolds simply cannot tolerate weevils and also onion flies. It is recommended to sow these flowers around the perimeter of the plantation.

You can plant strawberries next to large trees, but in this case you need to make sure that enough sunlight falls on the bushes. It is not recommended to grow strawberries only next to birch trees.

Many vegetables are excellent neighbors for strawberries. So, next to legumes, berries will only benefit, as they enrich the soil with nitrogen. Cucumbers and beets, cabbage help rosettes develop better.

Onions and garlic planted next to a strawberry plantation will help get rid of many diseases.

Any greenery sown next to strawberries will serve as a kind of growth catalyst for the berry grower. Parsley will be especially beneficial, as its smell repels slugs, which often eat the berries.

What not to plant nearby

It happens that even if all the rules of agricultural technology are followed, seemingly well-groomed strawberries do not bear fruit. The reason for this may be a bad neighborhood.

For example, you cannot plant Jerusalem artichoke and all nightshades next to the berries. Horseradish can also negatively affect the berry garden. Strawberries will feel bad next to sunflowers, as well as next to cloves.

With the onset of spring, an active time begins for all gardeners and gardeners. They begin to spend more and more time on their plots, trying to grow as many different crops as possible, sometimes in a relatively small area. Strawberries (garden strawberries), with their juicy and tasty fruits, are usually grown by almost everyone. But not everyone knows what to plant next to strawberries so as not to harm them and grow a rich harvest of these wonderful berries.

In fact, strawberries are a fairly unpretentious plant and peacefully coexist with many vegetables, fruit plants and flowers. However, some crops can have a rather negative impact on its growth and reproduction. We will tell you in detail how to choose the right neighbors for your strawberries.

The importance of proper crop rotation

First, let's talk a little about which plants are good predecessors for strawberries and which are not. Crop rotation is the most important agrotechnical measure; with its help, the soil replenishes its natural reserves. Most crops are not planted in the same place each year because they draw different amounts of nutrients from the soil. Another reason for the need for crop rotation is that different plants respond differently to weeds, diseases and insect pests. Strawberries have some pests, but cucumbers, for example, have completely different ones.

This rule does not apply only to potatoes, tomatoes and legumes - they are able to successfully bear fruit for many years in one place without depleting the soil. Strawberries usually produce a good harvest for 3-4 years, and then they need to be transplanted to another area. Therefore, you should know which crops will be good predecessors for garden strawberries, and which ones are better to plant after them.

What to plant after strawberries

Each plant has its own requirements for soil, fertilizers, etc. Strawberries love organic fertilizers, loose and well-fertilized soil, which should contain sufficient quantities of potassium, nitrogen and microelements. This plant has a deep root system, therefore, observing the principle of alternation, it is better to plant crops with shorter roots in front of it. Another important point in crop rotation is that after a disease suffered by a previous plant, a crop that exhibits sufficient resistance to it should be grown in this place next year.

When deciding what to plant after strawberries, experienced gardeners usually opt for root vegetables or legumes.

You can safely plant:

cucumbers;
radishes and turnips;
onion and garlic;
, beans, lentils.

Old strawberry bushes must be dug up and burned to destroy pests and pathogens. Then carefully remove all weeds and dig the soil deeply.

rosacea raspberries;
cloudberries;
rose hip.

These plants have many diseases and pests in common with garden strawberries. They also have almost the same requirements for soil composition.

The best predecessors of strawberries

The best crops that grew in the garden bed before planting strawberries on it are:

radish;
parsley;
spinach;
garlic;
turnips and radishes;
legumes;
carrots and beets;
corn.

Bulbous flowers will also be useful predecessors:

hyacinths;
tulips;
daffodils, etc.

If the area of the plot allows, agronomists recommend growing strawberries after black fallow or rehabilitating the soil using green manure plants:

wiki;
alfalfa;
buckwheat:
clover;
grain crops, etc.

Among other green manures, alkaloid lupine is considered the most suitable for strawberries. It produces substances that are poisonous to wireworms, but is absolutely harmless to berries, without affecting their taste or edibility in any way.
After digging, the plants will remain in the soil. They will improve its structure, enrich it with nitrogen and have a positive effect on weed suppression. It is strictly not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.

Rules for planting strawberries
Combined planting allows you to economically and rationally manage the space of your garden, especially if it is small. In addition, beneficial neighbors have a beneficial effect on each other, improving the condition, taste and nutritional value of the fruit. Another advantage of such plantings is that the plants protect each other from diseases and pests.
There are four rules for planting plants together that it is advisable for every gardener to know and follow.
Rule 1. Crops that need the same nutrients should not be planted next to each other. They will try to take them from each other, and as a result, both plants will not develop well and bear fruit.
Rule 2. The proximity of plants that have different watering requirements is also undesirable. It turns out that one crop will not have enough water, and the second may suffer due to excessive watering.
Rule 3. Plants should not shade each other. This can only be done if one of the crops requires shade or diffuse lighting.
Rule 4. If plants that have common diseases and pests are planted in the same bed or nearby, you can destroy two crops at once. Such a landing is strictly not recommended.

In the case of growing in greenhouses, it is important that the humidity, light and air temperature are suitable for each of the plants.
As for strawberries, they require soft, loose soil rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It also needs plenty of watering and sufficient, but not too bright, lighting. Garden strawberries can be affected by late blight, so plants that carry this fungus should not be planted next to them. Of the pests, the most dangerous for berries are and.
Mulching strawberry beds with coniferous (spruce or pine) needles has a positive effect on its taste.

To get a good, abundant harvest, you need to select neighbors for strawberries, following the above recommendations and rules of crop rotation.

Neighborhood with root vegetables
The best neighbor for garden strawberries among root vegetables is root parsley. Planted between berry bushes, it will repel snails and slugs. Also a good combination is strawberries and carrots, but you don’t need to mix it with parsley, you need to choose one thing. But both carrots and parsley go well with garlic or onions.
You can also plant next to strawberries:
beets;
radish.

It is better to choose varieties for planting whose fruiting time coincides with that of strawberries. Radishes can be planted directly between the rows; for this, leave a distance of 50-70 cm between the rows. And it is better to place radishes or beets in adjacent beds, but not by combining them with each other, but by choosing one of the crops.

Combination of strawberries with onions and herbs
Among bulbous plants, strawberries get along well with garlic and onions. Just don’t plant them next to each other, since onions and garlic have common diseases and pests. In terms of usefulness, garlic is especially worth noting. It repels the fungus that causes late blight, and the berry is very susceptible to this disease, especially some varieties. Root parsley, already mentioned above, works well with garlic.
Strawberries and onions also go well together. If you also plant carrots nearby, these crops will repel pests from each other, and at the same time protect the strawberry beds. Onions as a neighbor also promotes the rapid growth of berries and the reproduction of strawberries, eliminating the problem of rotting bushes.
Among green crops, the berry goes well with plants such as:
sorrel;
spinach;
borage;
various types of salads.

The majority of green crops are unpretentious and do not deplete the soil. They do not share any common pests with strawberries. And with the right planting scheme, they can create some darkness - in the southern regions, where the sun is active, this will be very useful. According to reviews from experienced gardeners, greens accelerate the growth of strawberry tendrils, which is important for vegetative propagation. In addition, green crops do not require special care, and herbs (coriander, basil, thyme, anise, tarragon, etc.) repel many pests.

Legumes and strawberries
Plants of the legume family occupy one of the leading positions in the list of neighbors useful for garden strawberries. These are peas, various varieties of beans and lentils and other crops. Thanks to their root system, they “loose” the soil and supply it with nitrogen, which is beneficial for the berries. The beds with legumes can be positioned so that the strawberries are slightly shaded and receive diffused rather than direct lighting.
However, legumes, by producing nitrogen, can make the soil too acidic. To avoid this, you can use fertilizers containing alkali. And you will have to do more careful weeding, because many weeds also grow very willingly next to legumes.

Strawberries and flower crops
In addition to vegetables and herbs, strawberries go well with flowers, especially tulips and irises. According to experienced gardeners, they are able to increase the yield of garden strawberries several times, well promoting their growth. This applies to the greatest extent to varieties of remontant strawberries. In addition, irises and tulips help the heat-loving plant endure cold winter periods more easily.
In addition to them, you can plant other flowering plants next to the strawberry bed (or directly on it):
peonies;
fern;
jasmine;
marigolds, etc.

These flower crops also have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden strawberries.
Flowers such as are worthy of special attention. With their properties they repel many pests:
nematode;
weevil;
mole cricket;
onion fly, etc.

In addition, these flowers protect against fusarium, which is very important for strawberries.
You can plant marigolds not only in beds and between rows, but also along the entire garden perimeter. It is also useful, when digging up the soil in spring, to scatter finely chopped marigold stems in it.

The proximity of strawberries to trees and shrubs
The proximity to various trees and shrubs is also favorable for strawberries. They have a good effect on berries, pines, sea buckthorn, grapes, etc. The main thing is that the trees do not shade the beds too much.
Under no circumstances should strawberries be planted next to a birch tree; it does not tolerate such proximity very well. So much so that you may not see any harvest at all, destroying all the berries.

Plants that should not be planted with strawberries
For some reason, some gardeners have an ingrained opinion about the almost absolute unpretentiousness of strawberries and the ability to plant them with a wide variety of plants. This statement is partly true: you can plant anything and with anything. The only question is how this will affect the harvest, and simply the survival of the plant.
Here is a list of plants that agronomists categorically do not recommend planting strawberries next to:
crops of the nightshade family;
plants of the clove family;
raspberries;
cabbage;
horseradish;
sunflower;
Jerusalem artichoke.

The worst neighbors for garden strawberries will be crops of the nightshade family: tomatoes and potatoes, especially the latter. In addition to the fact that it consumes substances necessary for strawberries, it is a carrier of late blight. Such a neighborhood can very quickly (in 1.5-2 months) destroy a strawberry bed.
Garden strawberries also do not get along well with plants of the clove family. And sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil for a long time and can harm not only strawberries, but also other plants, especially considering that the husks of sunflower seeds are poisonous. It is strictly not recommended to plant these plants near strawberry beds.
This also applies to raspberries, which many summer residents often try to plant next to strawberries - and completely in vain, since raspberry bushes shade the strawberry beds and greatly dry out the soil. As a result, garden strawberries often stop bearing fruit altogether.
Cabbage is an undesirable neighbor, as it needs the same substances as strawberries. In addition, it requires constant and abundant watering in much larger quantities than garden strawberries. These incompatible crops should not be planted in the same area.
Every gardener who grows strawberries always hopes to get a bountiful harvest of these delicious, wonderful berries. Today we told you about which plants will contribute to this, and which will only cause harm. If you take into account local climatic conditions, do not forget about proper crop rotation, and also provide careful care for the plant (timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds), then the grateful berry will certainly please the owner with a rich harvest.