DIY wooden ladder. DIY marching staircase: phased manufacturing Make a small staircase with your own hands

Making interfloor staircases for cottages is not an easy task. To do this, you need to know many nuances of construction, have experience in this area, therefore, if possible, it is recommended to contact a company specializing in this matter. If you want to make an interfloor staircase yourself, then first you need to study the current information, get acquainted with beautiful examples of ready-made projects, plan your own structure and create it.

Types and elements of structures

As you know, a staircase is used to move from one tier of a building to another. There are stairs that allow you to get from the street to the house, and there are those that are designed to go from the first floor to the second or from the second to the third. As a rule, interfloor stairs inside private houses are found only if the house is a cottage or a mansion, but this is not necessary. For example, a staircase can lead to the attic. In this case, it will also be considered interfloor.

The staircase consists of many elements. Depending on which of the types of stairs is chosen, their set also differs. For example, for a traditional wooden staircase, you can additionally use a radius riser, both convex and concave, a spacer sleeve or a ball that serves as an ornament for the railings, and for a minimalistic one, where the steps seem to float in the air, you can do with only running steps. However, there is a certain set of elements, which is tacitly considered the main one, available in almost every staircase structure.

Bowstring

The bowstring is the main structural detail of the staircase. It is on its basis that everything else is built. The bowstring is called a supporting element, it bears all the load that the ladder takes on. The bowstring has recesses for the steps. As a rule, a ladder has two bowstrings, however, this is not always the case. The exceptions are often options when the staircase is adjacent to the wall on one side.

The bowstring can be made of various materials: wood, metal, plastic. And also there are composite and bent-glued elements. In recent years, professionals have come to the conclusion that it is still not worth using bowstrings, since the design has many drawbacks, the main one of which is that it cannot withstand heavy loads.

It is also difficult for even an experienced craftsman to design a staircase on large bowstrings, since all their proportions must be as accurate as possible.

Kosour

A stringer is called one of the varieties of a bowstring. In this case, only one is made, and it accounts for the entire bearing load. Kosour can be located not only on the side of the stairs, but also in the middle, which is more preferable. It serves as a support for steps and risers, as well as other important parts of the staircase. When designing a kosour, it is important to preserve its shape: there must be protrusions under the steps, while the parallel edge can either repeat the stepped protrusions or be solid.

The choice of this or that material depends on the material or the preferred stylistic solution.

Remarkably, the kosour has two attachment systems: with filly and "comb". The "comb" is the notorious stepped design, while the filly stringer is usually attached in the middle and has support platforms on each ledge. These wide platforms allow the steps to be better fixed.

Steps

The steps are what the foot rests on when entering the stairs. They can consist of a tread and a riser.

Tread Is a horizontal surface on which the leg rests directly.
Riser supports the tread, strengthening the structure, at the same time closing the space that is under it. And also the riser does not allow the foot to "slip" between the steps, if a careless step was made.

The design of the staircase can be performed without a riser, but in this case it should be borne in mind that the tread will take on all the load. So, the ladder will not be as reliable. Such architectural solutions are designed for situations when it is not planned to move super-heavy loads along the stairs. In some cases, according to the architect's idea, the staircase is made only of steps, as in this figure.

In this case, the role of the kosour is played by the wall, or the kosour is simply mounted into the wall, further strengthening the structure.

Railings

Railings are by no means an indispensable attribute of stairs, however, their presence is highly desirable, especially if elderly people or children live in the house. The handrails have a protective function, preventing them from falling sideways from the stairs, as well as for support during the ascent or descent. The railing consists of handrails and balusters. Handrails are horizontal elements that can be directly supported. Balusters are vertical tables to which handrails are attached.

In some cases, the railings are made in the form of a solid piece, some railings or with balusters, which are attached not to the stairs, but to the ceiling. All these innovations are made at the request of the customer or interior designer. If the railing is made on a staircase with several flights, then the balusters in some cases can also be supporting pillars. Thus, they support not only the handrails, but also the bowstring and steps, as a result of which the load on them increases many times over.

Choice of design

Despite the many possible options for interfloor stairs, there are not many structural types. There are only two of them: screw and sustainer. The first ones are chosen when there is very little space for the stairs and you need to use it rationally. In the second case, the staircase can be impressive, straight, located in the middle of a large hall. However, there is a second option - to place the marching staircase along the wall, while the wall will play the role of one of the bowstrings.

Obviously, the choice of this or that design depends on the space allocated for the stairs, but there is another important component - this is the general architectural idea. For example, in a minimalist loft style, a modest spiral metal staircase, rather than a pompous marching staircase, will look much better, while in a classic interior such a large-sized structure is simply necessary.

Thus, it is necessary to rely not only on the possibilities, but also on the compatibility of the chosen option with the environment.

Screw

Small spiral staircases are familiar to everyone. They represent a single support pillar, to which the steps are attached in a spiral manner. The most important quality of such options is the small area consumption. So, for a spiral staircase you need only 1 sq. m. At the same time, they look quite interesting and can become a bright accent of the entire interior.

On the other hand, these ladders are extremely inconvenient, especially if the vestibular apparatus is not very well developed. The tread width remains very small, which greatly increases the risk of injury if you stumble when descending or ascending. It will be extremely difficult for elderly people to climb such a ladder, therefore, if the option is chosen only for the sake of style, it is better to refuse it.

It is good to arrange spiral staircases in specially designated bay window niches, providing them with railings along the entire length. Then the risk of injury will be minimized, and the convenience will increase many times over. And it is also necessary to do the illumination of the steps so as not to stumble.

Marching

Marching stairs are an example of pomp, an indicator of wealth. They require a lot of space, while remaining the most convenient today. Depending on the material, such options can be both pretentious and modest, homely, traditional. And also a lot depends on the existing elements: if all of them are available, then such a staircase is more classical. The exclusion of some details indicates a modernized model.

Marching stairs are available in several versions: straight, swivel and curved. Each of them is beautiful and complex in its own way. The shape depends not only on the direction of the bowstrings or kosour, but also on the shape of the degrees themselves. It is safe to say that various variations of flight stairs allow you to choose the right shape for any style direction of the interior. In some cases, it is possible to save significant space by eliminating some of the elements.

It is worth paying special attention to ensuring that this measure is truly justified, since in the case of refusal of one part, the load on all the others increases significantly.

Direct

Straight flight stairs do not imply bends or kinks along their entire length. The classic large staircases in the halls of two-story pompous buildings can serve as a clear illustration. Straight ladders take up the most space and are the most comfortable of all. Marching or flights of stairs, except for the base and the top, are not provided. To make a straight flight staircase look appropriate, you need to take care of the environment.

Placing such a staircase in the middle of the hall, it must be remembered that the style should be traditional. The wall-mounted arrangement will fit into almost any style, however, it looks most interesting in the modern avant-garde, if you add color accents at the same time.

Simplified structures with a minimum of visible support elements look interesting.

Swivel

The production of rotary flight stairs allows you to save space allocated for the construction of a staircase. This implies the presence of at least one intermediate march - at the place of the break. It is customary to place the so-called turns at the corner of the wall, if we are talking about a wall-to-wall arrangement, or at the required height when placed between two walls. An example can be seen in the entrances of multi-apartment storey buildings. Swivel flight ladders are more difficult to manufacture, but much more convenient to operate. They do not take up much space, while it becomes possible to rationally use the space near the wall, which often remains unused.

Due to these qualities, it is the rotary marching structures that are the most common option. When designing an interfloor staircase for a cottage, the main task is to "domesticate" such a capricious object. An involuntary association with high-rise buildings can kill all the comfort in the house. For this to work, pay special attention to the selection of materials suitable for these purposes.

You should try to abandon concrete, as well as too sharp corners. An example of a "government" building can be seen in the image below.

Curvilinear

Curved flight stairs can also be called radial due to their curved shape. If in the case of the rotary variants it was a question of ninety-degree corners, then here the bends should be smooth, soft, unobtrusive. However, exceptions are possible when the bending is strong, but the screw structure is not yet discussed. Since rounded bends of walls can be found quite rarely, it cannot be concluded that radius stairs are made only in these cases. Much more often you can find cases when the staircase is rounded due to the fact that it expands downward.

Curved designs are not as compact as screw designs, although they can also save a lot of space. They look interesting in modern styles, but with a touch of classics, for example, fusion. Sometimes rotary stairs are made in order to emphasize the unusual shape of the niche, which was reserved for the structure. Then it is advisable to make a radial staircase of almost the same scope as the niche itself.

Materials (edit)

Interfloor cottage stairs are not built from as many materials as it might seem at first glance. Previously, the spread of raw materials was much greater, and even now, with a proper budget, the choice is practically unlimited. However, zealous owners have long abandoned the abundance of materials that can be easily replaced with cheaper counterparts. For example, marble staircases are now almost never found in private houses, but there is a cheaper equivalent, which is easy to give a marble look - this is concrete.

Undoubtedly, natural raw materials are still held in high esteem. Many are not stopped even by the rather high cost and difficulty of work. The materials from which you can build a staircase yourself deserve special attention, especially if you do not want to spend a lot of effort, money and time. For special details, you can turn to the blacksmith's workshop or to professionals, while the work on processing the remaining elements falls entirely on the shoulders of the owner.

Wood

The tree has not given up its positions for many centuries. The best analogs in terms of durability, ease of use, durability have not yet been invented. Wood allows you to create a special atmosphere in the house, while even the most primitive staircase structure will look dignified. In this regard, many home-grown and professional craftsmen choose it. It is worth noting that the cost of wood can fluctuate.

Of course, it is best to choose the most expensive solid wood for the stairs, which is properly processed. However, some claim that a good solid staircase can also be built from pressed sawdust if you choose an MDF board of sufficient thickness. In any case, you cannot leave a wooden staircase unprocessed.

Painting, etching or opening with varnish will be required, which will lead to additional financial and labor costs. This fact should certainly be taken into account.

Concrete

Concrete stairs are mostly associated with the interfloor space in the entrances, but in vain. Current technologies make it possible to make almost any structure out of concrete, both in complexity and in appearance. The material can be given any look, while at the same time it will not differ at all from the original in the eyes of an inexperienced viewer. Until a certain time, a big problem when working with concrete was its impressive weight, however, in recent years, the substance has been significantly "lightened", and now a concrete staircase can weigh no more than a metal one. At the same time, the strength qualities did not suffer at all.

Some types of concrete can withstand constant contact with water, and the water will not cause any damage to them. The challenge is to give the concrete elements the required shape. As experience shows, it is still best to contact a specialized agency for a concrete staircase, abandoning attempts to make such a construct on your own. It is not a fact that the resulting product will be of proper quality, but a lot of money and time will be lost.

Metal

Metal stairs themselves are not so common. More often, bearing and supporting elements or railings are made of metal. Metal structures may be appropriate only in some stylistic concepts, in many cases they will look too pretentious and futuristic, which is not always a plus. It is quite possible to work with metal, especially if you know the basics of welding and forging. These works must be performed without fail, especially when it comes to intricate openwork designs.

Metal is a relatively malleable material, but not all types of metal are suitable for building stairs. For example, it is better to refuse aluminum, while steel and cast iron are ideal. For many, the weight of the finished structure is a big question. Indeed, if the staircase is made only of metal, it will have an impressive mass, therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the foundation and floors in advance in those places where it is planned to be installed.

Design and calculation

Before proceeding with the construction of any structure, you must first carefully plan everything, starting from the location and ending with the amount of materials. It is necessary to approach this step as responsibly as possible, since the success of the entire enterprise largely depends on preparation. Optimum values will be given as an example, however, taking your own measurements is an important step. First, you need to draw up a drawing, which will clearly reflect all the basic information. To do this, you need to make simple calculations using the step-by-step instructions below.

Based on these parameters, you can later calculate the amount of materials required and approximately calculate how long it will take for construction, whether it is possible to cope with it alone, or you will have to resort to the help of a partner.

Number and height of steps

First of all, the height and number of steps are calculated. However, before proceeding directly to these calculations, you need to know the height of the stairs itself... This is done very simply: you just need to determine by measurements the height from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second floor. You can make it easier: take the height of the walls on the first floor and add to this value the thickness of the overlap between the floors. For example, the height of the walls is 3.1 m, the thickness of the floor is 40 cm.Then the height of the stairs will be 3.1 + 0.4 = 3.5 m.

Riser height is standard and can fluctuate within 15.2-19.7 cm. It is not recommended to make steps higher or lower, as they are uncomfortable when lifting. You should choose any value within the specified limits, for example, take 18 cm. To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser: 350/18 = 19.44 cm. It is better to round up: the number of steps will be 20. For simple recalculations, it turns out that the height of the riser will be 17.5 cm: 350 (ladder height) / 20 (number of steps).

Step width

The width of the step should be between 22-40 cm. To calculate the width that is suitable for a particular case, there is a formula: the double height of the riser in the sum of the width of the step gives 64 cm. According to the second formula, the height of the riser, summed up with the width of the step, gives 47 cm. It is worth taking a look at how formulas work.

64 - 17.5 (riser width) = 46.5 cm. In this case, the width turned out to be too large.
47 - 17.5 = 32.5 cm. The step width is within optimal limits, so you can take this value as a reference. Should be rounded to 33 cm.

As practice shows, a suitable value will be obtained only according to one of the formulas, so you should not be lazy to calculate using both the first and second formulas.

March width

The minimum staircase width is 80 cm, however, it is not rigidly recorded anywhere. Greater emphasis is placed not on the fact that it is necessary to make marches of a certain size, but on their number. It depends on the location of the ladder and is determined locally. It is worth taking note of the definition used by professionals. They choose a march with a width that can be divided without a remainder by the width of the step. In our case, the following values are suitable: 66 cm (33x2), 99 cm (33x3), 132 cm (33x4) and so on.

Ladder length

The length of the stairs is easy to determine. To do this, you need two previously derived values: the number of steps and the step width. It is necessary to multiply them: 33x20 = 660 cm. The staircase turns out to be very long, so you need to consider options for a rotary or curved staircase. Few houses can accommodate a staircase almost 6.5 m long. The length of the spiral staircase will need to be calculated using special programs.

Clearance height

This refers to the distance from the ceiling to the steps. The size of the hole in the floor of the second floor, to which the staircase is adjacent, depends on this parameter. It should be remembered that the gap between the ceiling and the staircase should be at least 180 cm, ideally 200 cm. The place under the opening should be marked where this distance between the ceiling and the step becomes smaller.

Stringer length

To calculate the length of the kosour, you will need to use the Pythagorean theorem: add the length of the stairs in the square to the height of the stairs in the square and derive the square root. In our example, we get 660² + 350² = 435600 + 122500 = 558100; √558200 = 747.06 cm. Let's take it with a margin, rounded up to 750 cm. As you can see, the calculation scheme is quite simple. You can do without all sorts of professional values such as the angle of inclination, simply calculating all the necessary indicators, using school knowledge of mathematics. At the same time, the slope of the stairs will turn out to be comfortable, so there will be no need to bend over or be afraid to fall due to the fact that the stairs are too steep.

A detailed and simple diagram for a standard staircase to the second floor.

Are you planning to build a private house with two floors or more? We recommend that you immediately plan what the staircase will be. And we will help you with this - this material tells in detail about the types for cottages, summer cottages and private houses, design requirements. Also, with the help of diagrams and drawings, we will use an example to tell you how a staircase is calculated and built. The design is quite simple - it cannot be compared with a roof, so the owner, who has only minimal construction skills, can also make it. We will tell you how to make sure that instead of a wooden ladder, you don't get a step-ladder. Having studied the drawings and diagrams, you can make a high-quality design.

Views

Two types have been used in private homes for centuries, which we will briefly discuss:

Marching... This option is the simplest in execution, while the design is reliable. If a beginner gets down to business, then a marching wooden staircase will be an excellent solution. Also, the design can be divided into one-march and two-march. Despite the differences between these types, they have the same manufacturing complexity.
Screw... Work for professionals, as it requires careful measurements and calculations. One miscalculation can ruin the entire structure, so only a master can do it with his own hands. The main advantage of this design is its compactness, because the design takes up the minimum amount of space in the house. Often, a spiral wooden staircase is the center of the composition of the interior. The only negative is a rather steep climb, which negatively affects safety.

Of course, we will disassemble the marching staircase, although we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the screw options. It is easier to carry out the marching version with your own hands, for which there are drawings.
Another disadvantage of a spiral staircase is that it will be inconvenient to transfer large items from one floor to another.

Preparation of materials and features of work

Before thinking about building with your own hands, you need to draw up or take ready-made drawings, as well as prepare tools and materials for the stairs connecting the second floor with the first.

Let's start with the materials for the construction of the structure on the second floor:

screws;
thick boards, which later turn into steps;
bars - the section must be at least 40 millimeters.

It is impossible to complete the work without a drawing; the image below shows in detail what needs to be measured, so that in the end it is possible to calculate the dimensions of the future structure.

It is also worth considering the following dimensions when planning a structure for the second floor from the first:

angle of inclination of the stairs;
width;
the height of the entire structure;
number of steps.

If you have skills in working with a 3D editor, then you can make a detailed diagram. For example, the project will demonstrate whether a ladder will come out of a ladder. It is also recommended to study the drawings.

Blueprints

The simplest drawing of a marching staircase to the second floor, which the owner can make with his own hands. The drawing shows a fairly large structure, but sometimes such a staircase leads to the second floor.

Knowing the distance between floors, you can calculate the number of steps. For example, the height from floor to floor is 290 centimeters, the steps are selected at 20 cm. After simple calculations, 14.5 steps are obtained. It is necessary to round up to 14 or 15. In the first case, the height of each step should be 20.71 cm, and in the second - 19.33 cm.

In the example, integers are used - the height of the stairs to the second floor is 260 cm, each step goes by 20 cm, in the end they are 13. As for the dimensions of the flight of stairs, its width should not be less than 70 centimeters. The upward slope can be anything. In the example discussed in this article, the flight of stairs is 1 meter wide.

It is also worth considering the platforms that will be below and above. The dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the flight of stairs. The ideal shape would be a rectangle or square.
These are the simplest schemes for making a wooden staircase to the second floor. The main thing is to choose a convenient angle of inclination, so that in the end there is no stepladder.

The most reliable option is a straight staircase. The U-shaped version is suitable for private houses with a large area. A beginner is unlikely to master the L-shaped design.

Choosing an installation method

The design of the future staircase may include:

Bowstrings... This word refers to beams that support structures on both sides.
Kosoura... The second option is the beams that hold the steps of the stairs from below.

Mounting

When the steps, platforms and beams are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the stairs with your own hands. In the example, a variant with kosoura is considered. It is necessary to make notes in advance for the place of their installation. On the floor of the first floor, stringers are installed on a support bar. At the point where the staircase goes to the second floor, the supporting elements are placed in the gaps in the floor beam. In some cases, metal supports are used that serve the same purpose. Fastening of stringers is carried out using anchor bolts.

During the installation process, there should always be a building level at hand, you can also determine the position by the body kit, so that at the end you do not get a step-ladder. The elements of the wooden structure must be perfectly level. The step panels must be fixed on top of the stringers, it is most convenient to do this with self-tapping screws.

Are the steps ready? So you can start installing the balusters on the floor. Support posts are mounted at the top and bottom of the structure, limiting the handrails. They are also decorative and supporting elements.

Now the installation:

Finished balusters must be covered with handrails (railings), which are mounted on the support posts. If the structure is large, then additional support in the middle of the stairs will not interfere.
Sometimes 3-4 racks are required. In this case, you should not waste energy on balusters, since even boards will be a more rational solution.
After completing the assembly, the wood surface must be carefully sanded. You can do this with your own hands or with a power tool.
Next comes the preparation before painting: all debris and dust are removed, it must dry completely. If necessary, putty is applied after sanding. It goes without saying that wood coatings are needed for this work.
When the preparatory work is completed, you can paint the wood elements. A primer is applied, and then 1-2 layers of paint. After drying, it is necessary to varnish the structure. Alternatively, you can use wood stain.

The result is a comfortable staircase, with which you can comfortably and safely climb to the second floor. If the angle is calculated correctly, there will be no stepladder.

It is difficult to operate the farm without a ladder: neither remove the fruit nor climb onto the roof. In this master class, we will tell you in detail how in just a few hours using the simplest tool to make a wooden staircase for household needs: solid, reliable and with a fairly aesthetic appearance.

For such a ladder, two 60x40 mm beams will be required, which will go for two bowstrings. Choose the length for yourself, in this case it is 3.6 m. A smaller bar will go to the crossbeams - 50x35 mm. To determine the number of steps, divide the length of the ladder into sections equal to the height from the floor to the foot when the leg is bent at the knee. In the above version, these are 11 steps every 30 cm.

For work, you will need a hacksaw, a hammer, a pry bar, a small hatchet - preferably a carpenter's one, with a butt in the form of a hammer. From a power tool - a drill, a belt grinder, a plane and a jigsaw (instead of a hacksaw). You can use nails as the main fastener, but self-tapping screws will be more reliable. Black hardened ones are not suitable, they can burst under load, so buy ordinary steel with anodized coating and a head with a sweep.

In order for the ladder to be more durable, and the upper edge of the step to be horizontal when tilted, notches must be made on the short edge of the bowstring. First, mark the marks along the length of the bar at the places where the steps are installed, step back from them the width of the crossbars - 50 mm, and apply a second mark by drawing the edges of the notches under the square. Transfer the marks to the side edges on both sides, mark the depth of the notch at the bottom - 15-20 mm, and make a cut to this depth. Connect the labels together with a slash.

Place the hatchet with the tip on the top mark and, tapping on the butt with a hammer, chop off the wood.

Using the ax as a plane, trim the resulting notch bevel.

Make notches on both strings to speed up the process - knock them together with nails.

The bars on the bowstrings need to be lightened a little by processing the edges with a grinder.

Pay special attention to the notches, carefully sand the bevel.

Paint the inside of the notches and set them aside for a while.

For further work with the steps, you will need to make one end of the base. Draw square marks on one of the ends.

Saw off the uneven edges and process the butt end with a grinder, for beauty, you can remove a small chamfer. Similar to the bowstrings, lighten the wood a little and make the surface smooth.

Now you need to make the top and bottom rungs. In order to visually quickly distinguish the top and bottom of the stairs, it is made with a slight taper, so the upper crossbar is slightly shorter than the lower one. Choose the width of the stairs that is convenient, in the given version it is 65 cm at the bottom and 55 cm at the top. Mark the length using a tape measure.

And draw a cut line under a square.

Cut off any excess block.

And grind the ends.

Draw a line under a square, stepping back from each edge by half the thickness of the bowstring - 20 mm. Mark the center of this line, you get the following markup:

Drill a through hole on the crosshair so that the self-tapping thread passes through it freely.

Make a small countersink with a larger drill bit.

Place the top and bottom rungs in the notches and align the ladder so that the ends of the steps are flush with the side edges of the bowstrings.

Measure the diameter of the thread shank and select a drill 0.2-0.3 mm smaller. In this case, the rod diameter was 2.8 mm, so a 2.5 mm drill bit was installed in the drill.

Through the hole in the steps, mark the bevel of the notch while maintaining the position and direction of the drill. Then remove the crossbars and drill a hole 2/3 deep. It is necessary to drill holes for the self-tapping screw so that it does not split the tree, otherwise all the work is down the drain.

Paint the edges of the steps on the back where they adjoin the bowstring. Then put the steps back in place and tighten the screws.

Now the staircase has the required dimensions, it remains only to fasten the missing steps. Place the sticks in the notches and align the base ends flush with the side edges of the bowstrings.

Mark on the rungs the desired length along the opposite bowstring.

Prepare and install the steps as the first two: draw the cutting lines under a square, trim off the excess and grind the ends with a grinder. Mark the edges for drilling and make countersink holes. Then touch up the edges and install the steps in place, pre-drilling the bowstring with a small drill.

It's time to paint. There are no special secrets here, but if you want the paint not to clog the slots in the head, unscrew the screws 3-4 turns and tighten them after painting.

If, after painting, a tree is visible in some places, you need to apply a second layer. Alkyd paint completely hardens in 30 hours, after which the ladder can be used.

Wooden stairs are gaining more and more popularity every year. This is due, first of all, to the fact that people more often began to acquire country houses of several floors. When arranging a room, the correct choice of steps plays an important role. Natural wood stairs have many positive aspects. This type of product can be bought or made independently. To do this, you will need to collect a certain set of tools, buy good wood and be patient.

How to make the correct calculation?

Before starting work, you should pay special attention to the choice of the main material. Wooden stairs to the second floor can be made from different types of trees, but pine is best. This type of raw material is distinguished by its softness and low price. Even a beginner will easily work with such material.

A staircase made of solid pine will not darken if, before starting work, the raw materials are properly processed with a special tool.

In order for the structure to be reliable and serve for many years, it is recommended to buy more expensive types of wood. These include beech, oak, larch. They have a denser structure, but they have a high price.

The main types of stairs:

screw;
marching.

For the manufacture of the first option, in addition to wooden materials, metal materials are also used. These ladders are intended only for human movement. It is almost impossible to lift furniture or other dimensional elements along them. Often, screw structures are chosen for rooms with a small area. Popular types of wooden stairs are shown in the photo below:

Marching is the most practical and easiest to manufacture. Such designs are divided into many types. They can be either one-march or consist of several parts. In the second option, a platform is often used that separates these elements and is used to create a turn.

Before starting work, you need to calculate a wooden staircase:

The product should not have an angle of inclination greater than 45 0.
The depth of the tread is at least 25 cm.
The dimensions of the riser should be within the range of 16-20 cm.
Opening width from 1000 mm.
Railing height from 1 meter. For children - 60 cm.
Vertical opening - not less than 2 meters.

In order to determine the number of steps, it is necessary to divide the height of the future staircase by the height of the step. The resulting number should be rounded to the nearest whole. This indicator will be the number of steps.

Accurate counting can be done using a special computer program. Using simple rules and recommendations, you can make a comfortable, and most importantly, reliable staircase.

Product design

Before making a wooden staircase, you need to know what it consists of. This will help to quickly create the option that will best fit into the chosen interior of the room.

For ease of movement, the number of steps should be odd.

The structure of the flight of stairs includes the following parts:

Bowstring. This element acts in the form of a bearing beam and is an additional fastener for the steps.
Kosoura. These are the cuts that are created in the main parallel beams. They are needed to accommodate the treads.
Approaches. They are designed to cover the visible part between the steps. The risers are mounted vertically. It is optional to use these elements.
Come on. This type of element is the top of the steps.
Balusters. With this part, maximum rigidity and strength of the product is achieved. Elements are attached to steps and railings.
Columns. They are also often referred to as support rods. This is the main part of the screw structures.
Handrails. Mounted on top of balusters.
Radial steps. They are presented in the form of a rounded shape. Installed at the bottom of the stairs.
Decorative parts. They are installed on poles. These are often referred to as stubs.
Winder step. It is mounted at the very beginning of the flight of stairs. Its distinctive feature is its unusual shape.

The complexity of the structure depends not only on the type of construction, but also on the manufacturing method. A wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands for a private house can be made both on bowstrings and on kosoura.

Bowstrings are mounted from the end of the tread. For this, corners, grooves and construction glue are used. They can also be fixed using bars. All elements are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws.

As for the kosour, they are placed under the steps themselves. For their installation, special fasteners are used.

For the manufacture of bowstrings and stringers, it is best to use oak or ash. Also, craftsmen prefer larch. These types of trees will make the structure more reliable.

Marking up and creating elements

The manufacture of wooden stairs should be started only after a full calculation has been made. You also need to finally decide on the place where the product will be installed.

Sequencing:

If the steps will fit on the stringers, then their length should be 10-20 mm more, and their width should be 20-30 mm.

Particular attention should be paid to the wooden stair railings. They should be sanded in several stages, reducing the graininess of the paper. Thus, the handrails will be perfectly smooth.

Also, do not forget about the connector for the second floor. If it is not there, then by dismantling it will be necessary to remove part of the overlap.

Installation of a wooden staircase

Fastening the structure is the main part of the job. Much depends on the correct assembly of elements.

The installation of a wooden staircase must be started by attaching the support bar. It is fixed to the floor, where the stairs will begin. Then a stringer is attached to the beam. This can be done in two ways: washed down in a beam or washed down in a stringer.

After that, the product is fixed to the support bar, to the side wall and ceiling opening. As soon as the first stringer is well fixed, you can proceed to the second. The second element is installed according to the length of the prepared steps.

The top step should be at the same level with the floor of the second floor.

Depending on the width of the stairs and the expected loads, you can use not two stringers, but three or more. The use of several elements imparts rigidity to the structure.

So that the steps are not tilted in different directions, the stringers should be installed as evenly as possible.

After the main parts are attached, you can proceed to the installation of the risers, and then to the steps. The treads are attached with wood screws to the stringers and risers. In this case, it is important to ensure that the fasteners are well embedded in the wood.

The installation of balusters and poles must be started from the markings where they will be located. The dowel hole should be in the middle of the baluster. The fasteners are fixed into the connector with glue. They should protrude 10-15 cm up. A hole in the baluster is drilled to fit the dowel.

Then the posts are attached. On a single-march structure, they are mounted at the beginning and end. At first, only the upper elements should be attached, the lower ones will be installed at the very last moment.

After that, you need to fix one or two balusters. This is necessary in order to determine the angle of the surface. To do this, you will need to attach a handrail. Cut off the unnecessary part from all elements.

Then the base and holes of the prepared balusters are carefully processed with glue and connected with dowels.

The railing is cut at the desired angle. Holes are made on the sections to connect them with the posts, using a dowel. The rails are attached to the balusters after the glue is completely dry. They are also fixed with adhesive and self-tapping screws. We use for secure fastening.

The bottom column is installed last. It is also fixed to the railing with a dowel. After the glue is completely dry, a hand-made wooden staircase is considered ready.

To prevent the material from infecting fungus and insects, the wood must be painted with an antiseptic. The stairs should be coated with varnish or other paints and varnishes after the primer dries well. To do this, you will need to wait at least 24 hours. If this is not done, then the paint will not lay down evenly and will begin to peel over time.

Making a staircase out of wood is not difficult. Adhering to the sequence of actions and recommendations, you can make a beautiful, strong and durable structure that will decorate the room for many years.

Hello everybody!
How to get to an object that is at a height unattainable for you? How to collect fruits from the very top of a tree or paint at home? Such questions, most likely, have visited you more than once, it was for these purposes that a special device was invented, which is called the Stepladder.

Stepladders are perhaps the most popular and necessary ladders; they are used in everyday life and in other areas of activity.
This article will describe a method for making a ladder, with a detailed photo report.

To make a staircase, we need:

Materials:

Two beams 60 * 40 mm;
- timber 50 * 35 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- dye.

Tool:

A hacksaw for wood, or another available cutting tool;
- Sander;
- drill;
- hammer;
- axe;
- mount.

Let's start with the fact that we take two vertical bowstrings with a bar section of 60 * 40 mm, we take its length at our discretion, in this case the length was 3.6 m.

In order to make the staircase strong and the upper edge of the steps was horizontal when tilted, we make special notches, we apply markings in those places where we plan to install the steps, the distance between the rungs is 30 cm.We use a cross-section of 50 mm for the steps, according to these dimensions we make markings, we apply it on both sides of the bowstring. Next, mark the depth of the notch - 15-20 mm. We connect the resulting marks with an oblique line, as shown in the photo.

Then, using a sharp ax and a hammer, we remove part of the wood at an angle, but before that with a hacksaw, you need to make a depression along the marked line, this so that the bar does not split in an unnecessary place for us.

We use the ax as a plane, leveling the angle of the notch.

In a similar way, we make notches on both bowstrings.

Next, using a grinder, we process the surface of the bar.

We need to carefully align the notches we made.

Now, with the help of paint, paint the inside of the notches. We put them aside until they dry completely.

Next, we take a bar with a cross section of 50 * 35 mm for steps, it needs to be slightly modified. We take a plane and with it we remove a chamfer. We do the same operation on each bar.

Then you need to make one of the sides of the bars the base one, for this we take an angular ruler and use a pencil to mark up.

When everything is ready, using a cutting tool, we saw off all the uneven edges, then we process the surface with a grinder, smooth the ends.

Now you can proceed to the manufacture of the upper and lower rungs of the stairs. In order to distinguish the top and bottom of the stairs, it must be done with a slight taper. The top should be shorter than the bottom. We take the width of the stairs 65 cm from the bottom and 55 - from the top. You can take other sizes at your discretion. Use a tape measure to mark the length.

With the help of a square, we apply markings in the place where the future step will be cut.

We start cutting.

When the steps are ready, we process the ends with a grinder.

Further, at the edges of the bar we find the center, for this you need to step back from each of the edges by half the thickness of the bowstring (20 mm).

Then, on the marked centers, we make holes for self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screw must pass freely through this hole.

We make a countersink using a larger diameter drill.

Now set up the top and bottom rails by placing and aligning them in the notch. We make the ends of the steps flush with the side parts of the bowstrings. After that, through the existing holes in the steps, we make a mark of the place where it will be necessary to drill a hole. They are needed so that the self-tapping screws do not split the wood when twisting. The holes were made with a drill 0.2-0.3 less than the thickness of the screws.

Now you can fix the step in its place, but before that the pressure side of the crossbar should be painted.

When the stairs are given the required dimensions, we add the missing steps, for this we lay out the prepared bars in the notches, setting the base ends flush with the side parts of the bowstrings.