How to make an outdoor shower in the country: step by step instructions, photos, videos, recommendations! Country shower, timber structures: construction features, advantages and disadvantages Shower for summer cottages from lining drawings

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of water in human life. Especially during the heat of the sun. The summer shower is exactly what allows you to cheer up and freshen up after your gardening exploits.

By the way, not every summer resident has an outdoor shower on the site. But in vain! After all, it can be arranged simply - in the form of a temporary structure (collapsible) or thoroughly, for annual use.

If you are interested in how to make an outdoor shower with your own hands, then this article will be a good guide, since it contains the subtleties of choosing a building material for a shower and a frame, a water tank, a drain device, as well as drawings and diagrams for quick and inexpensive construction.

But, about everything step by step and in detail.

When planning the construction of a summer shower in the country, you need to pay attention to the choice of materials that will be used in the construction process. An outdoor shower is not only hygienic procedures, it is also a decorative element in the landscape design of the site. The minimalism style does not flourish in every country house, and therefore we will consider for a start what types of showers there are.

Types of summer shower for a summer residence

Simple outdoor shower

Structurally, the simplest shower consists of a tank with a tap, which is installed at the height of a person's height.

The shower tank can be installed on a tree, or you can lay the watering hose, fixing it to a special stand, and throw a rubber mat on the ground. As a one-off measure, such a shower will certainly do.

But, if you use it often, the bathing place will turn into a mud bath, which will make the suburban area look like a swamp, which is certainly not included in our plans.

Frame shower for summer cottages

Outdoor outdoor shower with remote tank

The photo shows an outdoor shower with a tank installed away from the bathing area. This is due to the fact that the shower frame cannot support the weight of a container filled with water.

Closed frame outdoor shower with tank

This design can already be called a shower house (or a country shower cabin). It was she who received the greatest distribution among the owners of private houses, despite the great complexity and cost of manufacturing. Therefore, we will dwell on their device in more detail.

The types of frame shower rooms differ from each other mainly in the material of the external decoration. According to reviews on the forums, the most popular were:

Its feature is absolute mobility and low cost. To make such a shower, it is enough to make a collapsible (or one-piece) frame and a screen made of thick PVC film (or tarpaulin). The portable shower is easy to move from one place to another.

However, it cannot be seriously considered as a long-term building, because the service life is limited by the quality of the film (polymer roll cloth). Usually it is changed every season, or even several times per season.

Such a building, as well as all subsequent ones, can already be considered capital (stationary). The best option for using lumber is cladding with a planed board or sheathing the frame with wooden clapboard. You can use moisture-resistant OSB boards (OSB) or plywood, but it is not advisable due to hygroscopicity.

The good thing about wood is that it is a natural material. But its use requires proper processing and constant care. A wooden shower will last from 5 to 15 years. The use of wood as a finishing material does not exclude the possibility of creating a unique project.

Finished garden showers are shown in the photo. Decking is a profiled sheet made of thin metal. A painted sheet with a metal thickness of at least 0.45 is suitable for a shower. Such a shower is resistant to moisture, but more expensive and deforms in case of mechanical damage.

It should be borne in mind that in summer the steel structure heats up a lot (one might even say it gets hot) and, as a result, it is hot and stuffy inside, therefore, good ventilation must be provided. The service life is determined by the warranty period of the sheet and ranges from 10 to 25 years.

Tip: If you decide to use corrugated board, give preference to a matte finish. Its service life will be up to 25 years.

Polycarbonate shower

Thanks to the ability to use the "greenhouse effect", polycarbonate is becoming one of the most popular and affordable materials for building a shower.

For a summer shower, it is better to use opaque cellular polycarbonate, 8-16 mm thick, a special profile and washers for fastening. A polycarbonate shower will last from 3 to 10 years (depending on the quality of the sheet).

Brick shower

An outdoor shower made of stone or brick can no longer be called a temporary summer shower, since they usually try to connect to it with running water and electricity. A brick shower house, with a properly organized drain, has been in operation for a long time.

Choosing a place for an outdoor shower on the site

To use the shower for a long time and without problems, you need to correctly place it on the site, for this you need to take into account:

• distance from home. On the one hand, it is advisable to place the shower closer to the house in order to quickly move to a warm room on a cool evening. But on the other hand, water drainage may not have the best effect on the foundations of adjacent buildings.

Tip: do not place a shower next to a well, this will adversely affect the quality of drinking water.

• water supply. Usually an outdoor shower is equipped with a tank. But water must be pumped into the container somehow. In a private house, water is supplied with a hose. At the dacha - most often by hand.

• draining. By installing the shower on a hill, you can simplify the drainage of used water.

• appearance. The thoughtful design of a summer shower will allow you to add a certain touch to the overall decor of the site.

• illumination. Considering the fact that it is planned to heat the water in the tank from the sun's rays, it is better to place the shower in a place where the sun will shine longer;

• drafts. You should also consider when choosing a place for a shower. Otherwise, instead of having fun, users will have a constant cold.

How to make a summer shower with your own hands - instructions

Stage 1 - material and tool

Shower frame material

• frame made of wood. It is advisable to use durable, dry coniferous wood. The thickness of the block depends on the thickness of the polycarbonate and the weight of the water tank. It will be optimal to use a bar not thinner than 50x50 mm. Using a tree in work, you need to take care of extending its service life. To do this, it is worth covering the wood with special solutions: an antiseptic, a primer, treat it with protection from a wood bug, etc.;

• frame from a metal corner or pipe. To make vertical posts, a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is suitable. with a wall thickness of 2 mm. To strengthen the structure, intermediate connections can be installed. A 25mm pipe is suitable for them. with a wall thickness of 1.2 mm.

You can also use a 40x60 corner with a metal thickness over 2 mm.

Please note that the metal must also be treated with solutions that protect against corrosion.

• frame made of aluminum profile. Most of the purchased products are made of aluminum profiles. It does not corrode, but its cost is higher than the price of wood or metal.

• frame made of brick, stone or concrete pillars. A brick, rubble or concrete frame is a rather rare occurrence in the construction of a polycarbonate shower.

Advice: despite the assurances of the manufacturers, it is better not to use plastic pipes for the manufacture of a summer shower frame. Together with the high windage of the facing material (for example, polycarbonate), such a structure will not have sufficient stability.

Finishing material

It has already been mentioned above. It is important that the material is prepared for use in conditions of high humidity and the influence of atmospheric factors. For example, buy a greenhouse film, it lasts at least two years. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic, a primer, a solution that prevents damage to the wood by bark beetles. Polycarbonate must have a protective layer that can withstand UV exposure. Decking is a high-quality polymer coating, otherwise, rust will appear after the first season.

Shower tank (capacity)

The choice of the tank is influenced by:

• the number of consumers for whom the shower is designed;

• material of manufacture. The tank can be steel, plastic or aluminum. Containers made of different materials heat up at different rates and, accordingly, cool down in different ways;

• tank weight. The material of the frame depends on this;

• volume of the tank. There are tanks on the market with a volume of 50 to 220 liters;

• the possibility of heating water in the tank;

• the presence of a central or private water supply, otherwise you will have to fill the barrel manually;

• possibility of transportation. You can buy a large-volume tank, but it cannot be disassembled, and therefore, the issues of transportation, lifting and installation of the tank should be taken into account in advance;

• tank color. The most common tanks are black or blue. Such colors do not discourage the sun's rays, due to which the water in them warms up faster;

• the shape of the tank - round or flat - depends on how the frame for the tank is arranged. But users are advised to use a flat tank in view of the fact that it warms up faster and more evenly. At the same time, the volume of a flat tank does not exceed 140 liters, and a cylindrical one does not exceed 1000 liters.

Tip: The water tank can be made by hand. Any clean container with a filler neck for a screw cap is suitable for this. Most often, summer residents use a barrel.

• faucet, shower head, hose and fittings (for water supply).

It should be remembered that the water in a summer shower runs by gravity, so wait for the pressure. But summer residents usually do not worry about this.

• pipe for water drainage. If it is necessary to install it, it is better to give preference to a plastic pipe.

• the tool depends on what material will form the basis of the frame and what will be used for finishing the shower.

Stage 2 - summer shower scheme

It is quite possible to make a drawing of a summer shower on your own, but in order to have something to start from, we will give several options for an example.

When developing a shower scheme, decide in advance on the finishing material. Some types, for example, corrugated board or polycarbonate, are distinguished by significant windage, and, therefore, it is necessary to provide for the installation of additional jumpers for the rigidity of the structure.

Consider also the volume of the tank, the frame must be able to support the weight of the container filled with water.

Consider the size and location of the door that should open outward.

Stage 3 - design (dimensions of the summer shower)

Of course, an outdoor shower is not a capital building, but, nevertheless, it is worthwhile to take a responsible approach to its design.

The dimensions of the shower depend on the preferences of the users, but are usually:

• width - 1000-1200 mm.

Tip: When designing the shower width, consider the door width and the 70-100mm gap. to install the door frame.

• length - 800-1200 mm.

If the shower simultaneously serves as a dressing room, then it is better that its dimensions are at least 1000 by 1200. If a dressing room is provided, then the shower itself can be reduced to 800x800, and the dressing room can be arranged in accordance with its owner's vision. If a toilet is supposed, then, accordingly, the width is added and the device of a cesspool or a sewer supply is taken into account.

• height from 2000 mm. This parameter is not standard because it depends on:

• the height of the tallest user with arms outstretched;

• place of installation of the water tank. It is often installed directly under the ceiling of the shower;

• presence / absence of a pallet in the shower.

• configuration. The outdoor shower has a predominantly square shape. However, polycarbonate allows for a round shower. And the developer's imagination can generally go beyond the standards and build an unusual and beautiful outdoor shower from familiar (improvised) materials.

Tip: when creating a summer shower project, select its dimensions taking into account the consumption of material, especially those with standard dimensions. For example, corrugated board or polycarbonate. It will be a shame if 100 mm is not enough, or if half of it remains unused, and you have saved on the dimensions of the shower room.

Stage 4 - shower frame and water drainage

The above drawings show that the shower frame is a simple design.

Regardless of the material of the frame, the manufacturing process will be approximately the same. But, nevertheless, there are several ways to make and install the frame.

Advice: a shower with a changing room (or with a toilet) requires the installation of additional vertical racks due to the fact that it has large dimensions compared to a shower without a changing room.

Option 1. Primitive shower frame

Weld the structure and anchor it in the ground using metal rods. Bent in half rods more than a meter long are hammered through the lower edge of the frame into the ground. This option did not find distribution among users due to the fact that it does not make it possible to organize a drainage system. The water used in the shower will wash away the rods and soon the frame can be blown down even by a slight wind.

Option 2. Shower frame on a columnar foundation

First you need to install the vertical posts. To do this, a drill is used to remove a layer of soil with a depth of 500-800 mm. Pour a sand-crushed stone pillow at the bottom of the pits, install the racks treated with solutions and fill them with concrete. In this case, the racks are set strictly according to the level.

Tip: it is better to grind wooden racks or wrap them with a layer of roofing material. So the tree will be less prone to rotting.

After the concrete has hardened, horizontal jumpers that will hold the tank, as well as the lower jumpers, are attached to the vertical posts (by welding or hardware for a metal frame, nails or special brackets for a wooden frame). Their purpose is to hold the bottom edge of polycarbonate or sheet metal sheets and take on some of the weight of the entire frame.

Tip: when making the frame, you need to provide additional horizontal posts for installing the door.

Additional oblique bridges will add rigidity to the structure.

To ensure the drainage of used water, a summer shower tray must be installed. To do this, you need to remove the soil from a surface equal to the shower area plus 100 mm. The excavation depth will be 300-350 mm. Fill a layer of rubble with sand at the bottom. The optimum layer height is 150-200 mm. Inside the frame, we make a bandage, which serves as the basis for the floor. Next, you can install a pallet or make a slatted floor.

To make a slatted floor, you need to lay logs on horizontal lintels, and on them - boards 50-100 mm wide. The size of the gap depends on the width of the board and usually ranges from 5 mm (for a beam of 30x30 mm), up to 20 mm (for a board with a width of 10 mm).

Tip: the gap should ensure a quick drainage of water and exclude the possibility of injury to the legs.

Attention: in cool weather, the flow of air from below (from under the floor) will make showering not very comfortable.

Option 3. Frame for a shower on the foundation

For these purposes, it is better and easier to fill the foundation in the form of a monolithic slab. To understand how to make a foundation for a shower, you need to decide where the used water will go. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the drain pit.

Summer shower foundation

It is necessary to remove soil from a surface equal to the shower area plus 100 mm. The excavation depth will be 300-350 mm. Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of rubble and sand. The optimum height of the sand and gravel pad is 150-200 mm. Tamp well and pour over with water. Then fill this pillow with a concrete solution, having taken care of the arrangement of the water drain. To do this, a polymer pipe must be embedded in a concrete slab, and the foundation itself must be poured at an angle. So that the water flows by gravity into the pipe. And then she went either into the ground (with a low frequency of use of the shower by several users) or into a special pit (in the event that many people use the shower). The second option to ensure the drainage of water will be pouring the foundation at an angle to the surface and installing a drainage in the place of water drain.

After completing all the work, all metal and wooden parts of the frame are once again treated with a primer or paint.

Advice: the paint must be suitable for use in high humidity conditions.

User opinions. As for pouring the foundation, here the opinions of users differ. Some people believe that a polycarbonate shower, as a lightweight structure, does not need a foundation, it is enough just to deepen the vertical racks of the frame and make a gravel backfill. And some are convinced that the foundation will make the shower more reliable. In any case, it will not hurt, the only thing will entail slightly higher construction costs.

Stage 5 - floor for a summer shower

The flooring provides for the construction of a wooden flooring or the installation of a pallet.

Tip: A car mat on a concrete floor is suitable as a one-off measure.

Stage 6 - installing the water tank

The tank is installed in a previously prepared place in the frame and attached to it.

Tip: you can speed up the heating of the water in the tank if you cover it with foil or lay a sheet of polycarbonate on top.

Stage 7 - wiring

Electricity supply and wiring, installation of heating elements (heated tank - heating element).

Finally, interior and exterior decoration is performed.

Conclusion

Thanks to this step-by-step instruction, now you know how to build a do-it-yourself outdoor shower for a summer cottage. Enjoy the cool water in the midst of a sultry summer.

In the summer heat in the country it is especially pleasant to take a cool or warm shower, to wash off dust and fatigue. Believe me, especially if you yourself have built a shower on the territory of your summer cottage.

An outdoor shower, self-made and lovingly crafted, is better than commercially available shower stalls - I can say that with complete confidence. Such a shower can be sheathed with durable material with thermal insulation (often a wooden "lining", siding or board). They perfectly store heat, so they are successfully used in cold weather. This shower is already with a stretch of the name of a temporary structure.

Choosing a place for a country shower

It is necessary to start building your own soul in the country carefully and thoroughly. The construction of a country shower must begin with the choice of a site for a shower. The best option if you build a shower in a sunny location (for planned solar heating). You also need to take into account the way the water is supplied, as well as its drain.

The shower is a room of high humidity, sometimes it attracts insects. For this reason, it is recommended to place this building away from the country house, and at some distance from it. Most often, the shower structure is placed as close as possible to the edge of the summer cottage. To drain water, they dig a gutter on the site or, if possible, outside of it.

Base and drain

At the place of the planned construction of the shower, you need to dig a small depression for the device of its base. The deepening is necessary to cover with a sheet of roofing material or PVC film, and even better to concretize it. Thus, you get a kind of waterproof "sump" that protects the soil under the shower from acidification. From the sump, the water should drain directly into the gutter. For this purpose, the pallet must be made with a slight slope. In order for the water to drain to a certain distance, you need to dig a trench under the drain pipe. In order for the water used in the shower to drain unhindered, it is imperative to maintain the direction of the pipe slope towards the pit, or in, if you have already bothered to build it.

Cabin

The shower cabin is built of wood, always coniferous. A country shower is a fairly tall building (up to 3 meters) with a relatively small supporting area. Such structures are rather unbalanced. For the frame of the walls, a beam of 100 by 100 millimeters is usually used. To build a more stable shower structure, it is better to concrete the base of the beam or dig it into the ground.

Do not forget to pre-wrap the timber in roofing material, glassine or tar to prevent rotting of a wooden beam in the soil. The installed support pillars from the timber are connected to each other along the top with a bandage from the same timber. Please note that the structure of the shower must be strong, designed for a load of up to 200 kilograms. After completing the upper dressing, the lower one is made - it will also serve as a frame for the floor of the shower stall. In its simplest form, the shower floor is made of a floorboard, which is stuffed onto a frame with small gaps between the boards for water drainage.

The walls are also sheathed with a board. Do not forget to cover the boards and beams with linseed oil before starting to work with, which will protect the wood from dampness and decay. It is very important to provide a window for ventilation of the shower stall when the door is closed. The same window will also serve for lighting.

We heat the water

Barrels with a capacity of 100 to 200 liters are usually used as a water container in country showers. They are painted dark and mounted on the roof of the shower, as you know, this will allow the water to heat up faster. In addition, you can put any reflective material on the roof (for example, foil or galvanized), which will also contribute to faster heating of the water. The tank must be equipped with a pipe with a faucet and a water diffuser.

It is very important to consider in advance how you are going to fill the tank with water. In the event that you plan to fill the tank manually, you must attach a ladder to the roof of the shower.

Door

The final stage in the construction of a country shower is the installation of a door. Also, do not forget to polyp and paint it. After the completion of all construction work, all wooden parts must be re-coated with a protective paint layer. So go for it - start building a shower in your country house, you will succeed. The pleasure of freshening up in your own rain is well worth it.

In summer, along with the wonderful sunny weather and bright colors from the plants, we also get the need to take a shower more often than usual. In addition, it is a pleasure to swim in the fresh air under the streams of fresh water, especially if you live in an apartment and have gone out into nature. On cold days, when the water does not get enough heat from the sun, you can make a heated shower.

As always, the most ingenious thing is simple. In our case, making an outdoor shower with your own hands is very simple; nevertheless, there are many options for implementing the idea.

Summer shower options for summer cottages

Let's start with the materials. It is possible to assemble the frame from any beams, whether it is a metal-profile pipe, or wooden beams. The walls can be from a wide range of materials, here are examples: sewn up with wood, profiled metal sheets. The quality and price are the best if the outdoor shower is made of polycarbonate, but you can even use an opaque oilcloth or tarpaulin stretched over the frame.

OPTION # 1

More expensive, but also more reliable will be a shower made of bricks or building blocks. The structure can be made combined and a toilet can be built next to it, as can be seen in the photo. The masonry can be faced with any material available for this.

OPTION # 2

Welding is most often used to assemble a shower from a profile pipe, but if you do not have the opportunity to use it, then you can fasten the beams by means of holes and bolts. To make the corners rigid, a "kerchief" plate or a diagonal strip of metal is attached to them. Such frames look good, covered with tarpaulin or oilcloth, as can be seen in the photo.

Also, on all the tighter metal base, you can easily fix the corrugated board, which will add reliability to the structure in many moments.

OPTION # 3

In construction hypermarkets, you can find a ready-made shower for outdoor conditions. But there is an opportunity to save money and make an outdoor shower with your own hands. The general concept has already been described above - the frame is made of a professional pipe, and the sheathing is made of polycarponate. See the photos for original examples.

Such designs are designed for the use of a summer shower storage tank, heating will be carried out due to the flat shape of the container.

OPTION # 4

Combining is another interesting solution. For example, three walls can be made of rigid material, sewn up with wood or a sheet of metal, or polycarbonate, and the fourth wall can be an opaque film screen. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to immerse a water tank on such a structure, and therefore water can be started up from a domestic water supply system.

This can simplify the task of providing water and heating the shower. Thus, with your own hands, you can make a shower with heated water from a home column or boiler.

OPTION # 5

A shower similar to the previous one can be made by attaching it to the house, or rather to its wall. Cover the wall with material that will keep water out of the wall and run the watering can pipe about 230 centimeters high. In this case, the frame is not needed at all, but if the open option does not suit you, then you can make a screen or curtain that will move along a curved pipe. The floor can be laid out with tiles or other convenient material, after making a drain.

OPTION # 6

If possible, you can lay out shower enclosures made of natural stone. This solution will fit perfectly into the landscape design of the entire site. In the variant in the photo, water is supplied from a domestic water supply system, since the presence of a barrel can disrupt the aesthetics of the structure. The stone was laid out without mortar, because its flat shape allows the entire structure to stand securely.

OPTION # 7

A budget option for a summer shower is the use of materials from tree branches. The frame can be made from thick and even branches, and the walls from bending vines or long branches.

This option is not only quite cheap, but also looks original. The supply of water due to the flimsy of the frame is carried out from the water supply.

Ready blocks and prices

The outdoor shower cabins made at the factory have a lot of variety. First of all, they can be made in different colors, since the colors of polycarbonate and corrugated board can be different. Also, the cladding can be made of synthetic fabrics, for example, from film or tarpaulin. Also, you will find two configurations: with and without a changing room.

On average, prices for cabins packed in an awning are 15 thousand rubles. The package includes a 200 liter tank. If you want to have a dressing room as well, then the amount will be approximately 18 thousand or more.

The same options, but with polycarbonate walls and a heated tank, will cost 20 and 25 thousand rubles, respectively.

Of course, these prices are approximate and you can find out the exact numbers in your local hardware stores.

What do you need to build a DIY outdoor shower?

Earlier we already talked about the materials from which you can make a shower stall, the frame is best made from a professional pipe; sheathing has a wide range of materials to choose from: profile decking, polycarbonate, awning and even oilcloth. When choosing a material, consider the tools that you have for installation.

Also consider the durability of the materials. For example, polycarbonate will retain its properties longer than wood, but it does not respond well to high temperatures and is more difficult to assemble.

Preparation plan

1. Drawing and plan. On average, a shower cabin on the street is made with dimensions of 1000 * 1000 * 2200 millimeters. Such dimensions allow the average person to feel comfortable inside. At the request of the owner, the width and length can be more, but in no case less. Decreasing the parameters will make it difficult to accept the procedure. And this height is due to the fact that part of it will take away the lunge of the watering can from the ceiling and the pallet.

In addition, the drawing will be useful if you decide to include a dressing room or other annexes in the structure. Such a calculation will help to avoid additional costs and be completely ready for construction.

1. The choice of material for the frame. It is recommended to use metal: corner or profile pipe. For the frame, you will need a corner of 50 by 50 millimeters or a professional pipe 40 by 20 millimeters. Calculate the footage of the blanks based on the dimensions of the shower: height, perimeter and length. Also consider the tank dimensions when designing the frame dimensions. The structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the full container. In addition, such material will last much longer than any wood. Maintenance is minimal - tint on time to avoid rotting.

If the choice falls on a tree, then in order for it to fulfill its role for a long time, it must be treated with special moisture-resistant agents, and then with paint or varnish. The part of the tree that will be in the ground must be covered with bitumen or resin.

1. Cladding material. The list to choose from is very large, but brick, corrugated board or polycarbonate is the most practical and popular. All these types differ in the way they are assembled and how they need to be serviced: for brickwork: you need a solution, after which it would be useful to varnish it from the inside with varnish; it will be enough to attach the corrugated board to the bolts, having previously drilled the holes; polycarbonate is also bolted, but you will need washers for it.
2. Water source. Equip your shower with enough capacity for everyone on the site to use. On average, one person needs 20-30 liters of water (fortunately, there is a huge selection in stores). Since the weather can bring surprises, heating will not be superfluous. You can equip your tank with electric heating using a heating element. If it is possible to run a water supply from the house to the shower, this will allow the use of water heated by a boiler or a gas water heater.
3. Roof. An important part, as while you are swimming, there will be a rather weighty load on top. In order not to be injured, the material must be tough. It is better to use slate or corrugated board as a roof. Polycarbonate will burst under a heavy load.
4. Draining. It is better to drain it about two meters from the structure. This will help avoid bad smells. Convenient parameters for a pit will be 500 millimeters in diameter and 1000-1500 in depth. The walls and drainage are filled with concrete using formwork.
5. Tools and consumables. At a minimum, you will need: a hammer, a saw and a hacksaw, a grinder, a drill. Welding works well to hold the metal frame together, and you need electrodes for it. You will also need to get nails, bolts and drills with a diameter corresponding to the bolts.

You will also need a watering can, a mixer, if hot water supply is provided, adapters, nozzles, pipes and hoses for water supply.

The order of operations

To assemble a shower stall you need:

1. According to the drawing in the photo, we weld or assemble with bolts, parts of the frame. Consider the loss in length when assembling.
2. We put the halves vertically and connect them using welding seams or the same bolts.
3. We fill the screed-concrete and make sure that the legs plunge 10-15 centimeters into the screed. Using a level, make sure that the structure is level. For a brick building, concrete and screed are poured. For draining, a plastic pipe is used, which must be placed in concrete during the pouring process.
4. After the concrete has hardened, proceed to the cladding and installation of plumbing, accessories, as well as the final arrangement of the booth.

Upon completion of the assembly of the frame, it remains only to veneer it with the selected material. Consider the dimensions of the material based on the dimensions of the "skeleton". It is better to drain it with a pallet or, at the stage of concrete formation, make a current by placing a plastic pipe there, which will lead to a sewer pit.

The source of water can be either a plastic tank on the roof of the cab, or a pipe from a domestic water supply system.

As you can see, just using a little imagination, you can build an outdoor shower by spending a minimum of money and getting a maximum of aesthetics and quality.

As Ostap Bender would say, a shower for a summer residence is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a tool of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who postpone washing after a weekend at the dacha before arriving home turn to doctors for skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; there is no data of a similar nature for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent an amount 2-3 times less, or even completely from scrap materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slimy kennel, the dreams of a greedy dermatologist (there will be a lot of patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the appearance of a building site to structures made of, for example, construction waste, at the sight which the experienced designer nods his head in understanding, see fig.

But, which is characteristic, there is no medical correlation with the type of shower - purchased, of different price categories, or homemade. "Super-duper firm" for 70-100 "tyr", with automation and touch-remote control can turn out to be a breeding ground for infection, and concocted from the shower head in the country will faithfully guard the cleanliness and health of the owners for many years and decades.

DIYers with manufacturers are not to blame here; and those, and others do not take efforts, skills and considerations. Simply - no one really knows how to do it, dacha shower. If there are any normative rules for its construction, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that the dacha shower needs to be done correctly in essence, i.e. so that it would wash, not contaminate it, and so that it would not kill the earth with the contents of wastewater and spoil the crop, but how? It's dark here, like in a Khrushchev bathroom when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is 2 cubic meters. m, but this is at the standard volume of flow, and at the dacha it is several times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is nasty, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry closets) allow to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the toilets, but fundamentally, the processes in the cesspool do not change. What volume and design do you need an outdoor shower cistern? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other units and structural elements. In fact, whoever wants to make a dacha shower competently, they pull at the norm from there, then from there, and there - maybe they all come together and come together. Or maybe they will disperse, and the byaka will come out.

Well, let's try to include what Mother Nature of the still American president has cheated a little to say at the end: “Well, at least I’ve found a good ideal!”. We will design an outdoor shower for ourselves, based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself, nor the water for it should harm those who were washed, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - runoff from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near (in the form of compliance of the crop from the site with sanitary standards), or in the distant (in the form of water quality from local water supply sources) perspective, in space and time.
• Practicality, it is functionality - should not be something that is possible, but it is pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the country.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil the landscape design of the site, but, preferably, fit organically into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not striking.
• Economy - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, not to the detriment of any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing rules and regulations, but for verification, so as not to fantasize absurdities. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. The data in the regulatory documents is the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single set of them for country showers, you will have to turn to the basics. To build a shower correctly, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle will be easier then. Really - in the following sequence:

1. Base.
2. Drain and rake.
3. The choice of design.
4. Possibility of combining functions (shower combined with toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cab - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
8. Additional equipment - water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. If it is violated, the case no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but such things as pneumonia. A heated shower doesn't just mean hot or warm water.

Let's say it's +13 outside, but you need to wash yourself. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: there will only be any sense from insulation (yes, readers will forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washing machine. Without them, you will have to shiver and shiver for 2-5 minutes, until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats up the booth. In the meantime, the hot water may run out, the tank is not still.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the top and bottom. How to achieve this, we'll see when it comes to additional equipment; for now, as they say, we will tie a knot.

Children's question

Why shower separately? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewerage. Here it is appropriate to recall the rule: the cesspool should be at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in the miasms, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash the foundation of the house with all that it implies. It is still possible to arrange a shower room in a country house. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-season.

Note: a bioseptic, which gives almost no harmful vapors, in certain conditions it can be moved 4-5 m to the house. But this topic already refers to the device of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of country-shower works disappears in the following cases, see fig. below:

• When using a compact handheld shower, on the left in fig.
• If the shower with adjacent outbuildings is ready-made modular, in the center in Fig.
• If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft lining, on the right in the same place.

A compact shower in a suitcase (on sale - a large selection) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of heating water; it is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. To this, the soul is not needed and the rake is not enough - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and no matter how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a burst.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are equipped with adjustable feet, which, when stationary, allows you to compensate for the current movement of the soil. Modular common areas are more familiar to citizens from public dry closets, but apart from them, modular showers, also kitchens, shelters, etc. are produced, so that a full-fledged utility block can be typed from the modules. This pleasure is by no means cheap, more modules are used to organize the conveniences of professional mobile teams. A rake is not required, you only need to timely change the filler of the built-in septic tank.

The frames of soft showers are put on stakes made of reinforcing rods driven into the ground. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but on self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. Sheathing is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat, then it is not so parked in the cabin, in the cool it is warmer, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick disgustingly to the wet body. Such a design will withstand a 12-point earthquake, as long as the earth itself does not disappear from under the shower. A rake is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it's better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and neat on it.

Plastic

It is possible to build a shower cubicle from light, resilient and chemically resistant materials with rigid sheathing (see below) without a foundation, even on highly heaving ground. So that it does not overturn, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-porous pillow is enough. Specifically - sand and gravel bedding in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages on meter-long chernozems do not stand out, so you don't have to dig very deeply, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 is gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after winter, it still skews, the booth can be moved aside, the pillow can be leveled, and put back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes, put on reinforcement bars driven into the ground, like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the underside of the pillow, or better, if local conditions allow, to the depth of freezing, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood, in principle, can also be put simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then - treatment with hot bitumen will protect the support frame and the floor from rotting for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can keep its strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi with bacteria will get to where they get their feet and rub against which bodies rub, much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower

The means to meet these requirements has been known for a long time - a columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and free "wagering" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. Expensive to buy to anything, it is better to do with homemade hammered. Simply - pipe segments with a diameter of 60-150 mm (available) with ends flattened into a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a homemade woman (it is much easier to work with it), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

The location of the piles is 1 per corner and every complete or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After cutting the protruding ends with a grinder along the hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; they are put on and attracted by nuts with washers 40-60 mm in diameter, the lower support frame - grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drill piles from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells pass to the same freezing depth with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle for it, with which wells are drilled for a strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcement of piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to the indicated case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height with a grinder with a stone circle before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are bricked up to a depth of 120 mm.

Metal

For a shower room on a metal frame, the foundation is made the same as for a wooden one: if the wood rots, then the metal rusts. In this case, hammered metal piles are preferable, and a grillage from a 50-80 mm channel is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in the country is a rarity, laborious and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it. It is enough to pass the return flow from the tank into the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator (see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30-mm packing foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and a ceiling height of 2.2 m at +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not resilient, heavy, therefore a brick shower foundation is needed strong and stable. Since the structure in this case is small, a slab monolithic foundation turns out to be optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. Its device is simple: a solid (necessarily!) Reinforced concrete slab 170-300 mm thick is placed on the non-porous pillow described above and with a removal of 0.3-0.5 m beyond the building contour, this will be a blind area.

The concrete grade does not really matter, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If you plan to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to pour the slab on the spot, circling the recess for the barrel with a formwork.

Rake

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the waste pit, which is necessary for the disposal of wastewater to a naturally processed level of pollution, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. For example, the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks clearly indicate: do not fill, it will sour and stink. Do not let it dry out, the microflora will die and stop working altogether.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool in the country is obvious. But its chemical composition is also important: there is practically no household organic matter, a nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use a shower, like Polygraph Polygraphich Sharikov from Dog's Heart, a toilet. But in an excess of destructive alkalis for them (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc.

Therefore, bringing drains from the shower and toilet in the country into a common pit is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry. The kitchen can still be combined with the toilet, but the shower must be taken separately into a special pit. In a city apartment, the matter is different: there, while the drains reach the treatment facilities, everything will mix and react so much that only the percentage composition for simple compounds and elements will matter. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewerage system separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: What abominations do researchers not have to delve into sometimes, eh? But it’s necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: so what, take out the extra 2 cubes of soil? Since the septic tank does not process the shower drain? And a hundred square meters of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, the consumer supervision screeches out with a squeal when the analysis is done.

It is not at all necessary, if we take into account the time of heating the water, the maximum frequency of using a country shower following from it and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time drain). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to bring the runoff into the soil little by little, so that organic acids from the soil can neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil micro-living. And organic acids, a product of her vital activity, will seep from above.

Calculations, for the description of which, unfortunately, there is no place here, show that a drain of 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this, as they say, is above the roof), must be taken into the ground at a depth of at least in 2 thicknesses of the humus layer. Conclusion: an ordinary 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, this is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will also go, if only its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (we will take the tank capacity for it), and the height is not less than 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the pit shell can be recruited from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour bleach into the pit, in the resulting side cavities with frequent use, the waste water will stagnate.

From theory to practice

It is not difficult to arrange a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel. First, we dig a foundation pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the spout of the siphon to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, but we cut off a segment from the cover to make an inspection hatch; it will need a tight cover.

We install the barrel in the pit, fill it back with the soil. Next is the filter. We pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water we stir 1-1.5 kg of any clay to "milk", and pour the filling evenly with a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water is gone and the clay dries up, stir up the filter layer, often thickly piercing it with pointed armature. It remains to weld the lid, and after building the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, in terms of bio- and simple chemistry it is more similar to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: if construction is underway nearby, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then the backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous mix are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

Smell from such a cesspool is structurally excluded. It is convenient to inspect and, suddenly it is necessary, to clean it, but the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; usable area, except for the one under the shower, is not withdrawn from household use. At the author's dacha, the shower drain from the barrel has been working regularly for almost 20 years. It was not necessary to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was overgrown with a dense layer of some kind of chemical compounds, but did not corrode through and through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to a sanitary station, which invariably showed their complete suitability for food. On the test, they hammered a well 5 m from the pit for water - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower and toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be installed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the summer cottage is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention the antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool at all by arranging a powder closet. More precisely, a powder-toilet, because it's a French notion. Sortie French way out; toilet, respectively - latrine. The powder closet can be used only in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to equip the shower area, and in what cases we can do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower are we going to do? Or buy? In general, the choice is as follows:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in the shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact is not compact

You don't have to carry a portable shower with you anywhere and everywhere. Nobody bothers to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers to fill the wineskin with hot water heated over a fire or in a stove immediately before washing. The only additional requirement is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold complete with the actual shower or as an option. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - it is easier to make a shower fence yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular rail attached to the wall of the house, see fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe, you can do with a propylene water pipe, put on all the same pins from reinforcing rods. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew the curtain from a colored tarpaulin (propylene is also preferable); why - stated above.

Outside cab

Users of "stationary" showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters and not enough for one, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower cabin, and there is a drain problem. Usually it is solved by draining water down a slope or a gutter to a flower bed, on the basis that flowers do not eat. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this, of course, is wrong. And the earth, if the shower is used often, can turn sour, and then the whole flower bed will disappear. It is better to choose the time, at the lower edge of the drain slope (usually this is the blind area of ​​the house), to mold a bell-catcher out of cement, and bury a 40-mm PVC sewer pipe in the ground to the drain pit. For the one described above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If you want to quickly and simply replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with a rigid sheathing is made from a booth with a curtain is schematically shown in Fig. Within the simplified blind area of ​​a building with a width of only 60 cm, a rather comfortable booth is obtained (aisles of 45 cm, a semicircular sink in terms of 60x120 cm) and completely unattended booth. The material of the sheathing and the fence - any, sufficiently rigid and allowing some bending. Polycarbonate is best; we will talk about him later. In this case, the fence of the labyrinth entrance can be bent, having received a completely elegant extension.

Shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with soft opaque skin, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is put in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will quite tolerate the increased runoff.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on the foundation; it, as we will see below, may not exist. There must be a locker room in a capital shower, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, it is not necessary to demonstrate when washing a model of swimsuits, coupled with graceful forms or a relief torso, as shown in advertising photographs.

It is necessary to wash completely without clothes primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and the ribs of clothing. Having become limp, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where you least want them. According to the rules of field work in countries that widely use seasonal agricultural migrant workers, i.e. unaccustomed to dig in the ground, after the shift, after washing, you must definitely put on a clean underwear. Outerwear can be left working, but underwear - only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom mud up to a centimeter thick is not yet mud, and then it falls off by itself.

How a shower with a changing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. A curtain protects clothes from splashing, and a lattice, wooden or made of propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, protects the shoes from getting wet, see below. In this case, the curtain is more suitable from a film - a tarpaulin that is not blown by the breeze will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, then it may be resistant to moisture.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that, bending over for the dropped soap, not to knock out the door and not break the walls with the fifth point, the dimensions of the washing room in the plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be a large side.

All in one

The change house at the dacha plays a different role than at the construction site and field work. In any case, the rake should be carried from the housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And having a meal, since we have escaped from the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and healthier in the open air. Therefore, a kitchen with a veranda is often included in the dacha shed along with a shower and toilet.

The limiting, so to speak, schemes for the device of summer cottages are shown in Fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet - powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - 75 mm aerated concrete + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is flat sloped slate. A large shower room can also be used as a refuge if there are many people; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or install a wood-burning stove. It is built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of an assistant, over the weekend, except for the technological break for the strength of concrete and the time for finishing work.

Note, joke: do not rush to build this, and then who knows when your hands will reach the real house.

In the House

A country shower in the house, since it is in a living room, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some of the features in relation to the dacha will be discussed further in the course of the presentation.

Floor, pallet, lattice

Floor

The floor in the dacha shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too laborious and expensive. In a cabin with dimensions up to 1.5x1.5 m, if a grooved board is taken for flooring, logs are not needed. If the booth is not square, the floorboards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. Nowadays, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with oil zinc or titanium white, etc. The preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures over 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for later in the evening if they have been processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the next morning.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. You just need to read on the package whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure, this is not suitable. It is advisable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, letting the boards warm up for an hour or two.

3-4 hours after impregnation, you can apply acrylic lacquer in 2 layers. The first one will dry out in the evening, then you can varnish it again. The next morning, the floor can be laid. Thus, if you choose a fine day, with a floor that will last at least 10 years, you can handle it over the weekend, and there will still be time.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you do not know this yet, are low and high. The former fit into a cutout or recess in the floor, and the latter are actually a standing bath: they are installed on legs and equipped with a screen. Both are in size from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Made of acrylic or enamelled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the latter are cheaper.

For a summer cottage with a separate shower on the territory, the shower tray needs a straight, low one, see the figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Ease of installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and a pallet is placed right there, while it is not frozen; squeezed out excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and labor: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the width of the inside to the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to upholster the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not fall into the hole.
• Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Durability in country conditions: acrylic pallets in summer cottages do not withstand the design life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear by sand, from which you cannot go anywhere outside the city.

Note: if the shower is with a changing room, you can take a pallet 800x1000, see above. If at the dacha there are people with above average corpulence, then the best pallet will be 1200x1200

A country shower in the house already requires a high pallet. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed in a complete pattern. And even then, slotting-concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus beat the channel for the drain pipe. Suddenly, the house has not yet been built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the installation step of the lag turns out to be too large for a flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower enclosure of the same overall dimensions takes up much less useful space in a small room and turns out to be even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for the installation, it is advisable to do it yourself. Firstly, the departure of the master out of town will be too expensive, for him the day is lost, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and drain in the country are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower stall

And the following is about the intricacies of the angular:

In addition, before buying, you will need to familiarize yourself with the proprietary instructions, tk. the installation methods of showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the dressing room, a grate under the feet is necessary so that the shoes do not get wet. In a sink with a low tray, a grate above it is also very desirable, because due to the lack of a threshold, the risk of slipping and crashing when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from 30x30 slats to 100x40 boards. The preparation of the wood is the same as for the floor, but it is desirable, instead of varnishing, if funds allow, to cover the grill with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear with the soles of shoes will significantly increase. And for the floor, covering with a compound will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, the thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if we take into account the prices for varnish, then the cheaper grating is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes need 1/2 ″; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The step of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the lattice, a little polyurethane foam is thrown into all the gaping ends so that the lattice inside is not sour from dampness.

Tank

The shower tank for the summer cottage must be equipped with a sanitary drain with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in Fig. It is located at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least a week), the tank is completely emptied through the sand drainage. It is advisable to drain the sludge regularly, with the same frequency, and with constant use. Please note that in the country, the probability of spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms entering the tank is many times - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author is aware of a case when in the shower tank ... carp-piglets were found. Apparently, they ate the larvae of mosquitoes, which swarmed in the same place.

The second condition is that the selection pipe must be set higher so that pure water sprays from the watering can, and not sludge. Finally, in the presence of water heating in the tank, its thermosyphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go idle. That is, the hot water supply must be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from a water supply, then it needs a float valve and an overflow with a clearance area of ​​at least 2 of those of the supply pipe. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, without blocking the water supply to the end. For such a case, the diagram of the tank with the recommended dimensions is shown on the left in Fig.

For a manually filled tank, the pipe layout changes because the water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition - the supply of hot water should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the source of the selection, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be taken away from the source of the outlet; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sludge does not clog the water heater.

And what is he made of?

Ready-made shower tanks of various sizes, tanks, fully equipped with fittings, are available for sale in a wide range. But, since our task is to completely implement everything with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common cottage shower tanks are made from barrels laid on one side; then it is convenient to place the sand drainage, and the loss of water in the sludge becomes minimal. In a steel 200-l barrel, in this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out and through it, after welding the nozzles, the container is painted from the inside with yacht acrylic enamel or the same compound for repairing bathtubs. An outdated long way - they are primed with a rust primer and painted with iron red lead in oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but there is a problem of sealing the joints: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and it is impossible to connect by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic drums are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install threaded unions M12-M16 with a flange and a rubber gasket, and from the outside - also with a gasket and a washer; everything is pulled together with a nut. To prevent the branch pipe from turning out by thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 external diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for 2-3 seasons the joints leak.

About a tank from an old washing machine

It is no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is not large, for 2-3 washes quickly, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, sand drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the I / O of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamp for the gasket and holes for fasteners. Covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we get effective solar heating of water (see below), because, repeatedly reflecting from the inner shiny walls, the radiation of the Sun will be almost completely absorbed by the water.

Cabin

Grillage

The support frame of the cab is most often made of wood, it loses strength more slowly in the conditions of suburban operation than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but it will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for the tree, a 100x100 or even 60x60 bar is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. The processing of wood is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is soaked twice or three times with heated bitumen mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will ensure a durability of at least 12 years; WPE, deeply penetrating into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet tub, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet, this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. 2-3 more steps are needed at the entrance.

Frame

A wooden shower is assembled, as well as on supporting pillars, only the problems of the roof disappear: it is either not there at all, or it is simply sloped. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or its own, loosened in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cab.

A professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2 usually goes on a metal frame. The profile frame is assembled by welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but do not last long, this material is not intended for outdoor use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2 ″ and 3/4 ″ propylene water pipes. The assembly scheme is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, plastic soldering is not required, it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe fits into them more tightly, and assemble it on self-tapping screws. Phosphated (black) ones keep better in the shower. Diameter of self-tapping screws - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not stick out and does not scratch.

Sheathing

In general, any sheet finishing materials for external use are suitable for covering the shower: corrugated board, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, the top row in rice; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Polycarbonate stands out from all cladding materials. Its main advantage is a self-heating polycarbonate shower room. The peculiarities of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put - a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap at the bottom. Cellular polycarbonate and was originally developed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cubicle is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of ​​its glazing is large in relation to its volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of the 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for covering the shower. You should not be afraid of peeping: especially for showers, milky, opaque, polycarbonate is produced.

The second important factor is that the honeycomb sheet, if oriented vertically and bent by the internal channels, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PSC): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very strong and lightweight round cabin can be made on a frame from only 2 hoops bent from PP pipe, upper and lower. The hoops will also be pre-stressed and will add a lot to the overall strength.

Finally, by tightly tying the sheet to the curved template and heating for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bending of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular for original shower enclosures without frame, see fig. on right.

It is also widely used for showers and good old wood, pre-processed, as for the floor, or even raw, at least in the form of a wattle fence, the bottom row in Fig. above. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - wood keeps heat well. Heat loss through a wooden sheathing made of a forty-piece board is less than through a brick one in half a brick.

Note: it is undesirable to use laminated and modified wood materials for covering shower rooms - plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - they delaminate.

Armature

What distinguishes a garden garden shower from an ordinary shower is, first of all, a shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes a control valve, see fig. If there is separate hot water at the dacha, then this is not suitable - diffusers with a standard two-way valve are not visible on sale. However, it is easy to make a watering can with a valve yourself, it has no fundamental features. Other shut-off valves can be any ordinary, but it is easier and cheaper to make pipelines flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now let's figure out finally what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, the heating of the washing room will allow the return flow from the tank to the water heater through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of living quarters, this scheme is utter heresy, but in the soul it is quite workable without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest heating of water is provided by a low-power flow-through gas boiler or, if the gas is bottled, an electric boiler. We will leave the one and the other, tk. it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside of industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only a base, automatic temperature control is also needed, emergency from boiling, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to fouling with scale or tightening with sludge, and some other necessary trifles.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, which summer residents have used from time immemorial, is to warm water with the Sun. But the well-known tank drenched in bitumen is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 ways of primitive solar water heating are shown in fig. on right. The first (left position) exploits the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV) light. The latter carries a lot of energy, but a well-transmitting UV tank is needed, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, which is on the right pos. the hose's own heat capacity is used: when the water flows, it gives off the accumulated heat to it, therefore, it is possible to obtain more warm water than it was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and the time of year: clouds have come up - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. For good water heating, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a water heater for a shower must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively high. An indispensable condition for "stitching" these requirements is thermosyphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is the second thing.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with a slope, in the middle in the same place; then the hot side must be raised above the cold one by at least the value of the inner diameter of the tube, otherwise the development of internal convection, boiling and rupture is possible even with a relatively small inflow of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to have a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of "thermo-siphon" is observed here by the fact that the outlet (hot) branch pipe is located as high as possible above the cold one. In this case, sealing is needed complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The water-heating register can be built into a summer cottage heating and cooking stove, but this is already a matter of the device of the stoves, and where the hot water goes then, the stove does not really care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for a shower. In our latitudes, it is not suitable for cooking, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see fig.) In spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the next. rice. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors only the visible part. For IR, the cloud is much more transparent, and UV, even in small amounts, carries a lot of energy.

The scheme of a stationary solar oven is more complicated, but much more effective, shown on the next page. rice. The reflector is collected from pieces (can be scraps) of zinc-plated silicone. Fragments of the reflector are installed alternately, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; the already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this oven and the heat exchanger described in front of it, a compact one is needed; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not so complicated and do not require any alignment. These are, in fact, blackened from the inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in Fig. In modern solar panels, truly space technologies are used, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at –20 outside give water to the system with a temperature of +70.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most unpretentious design like those shown on the trail will cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in fig. below (on the upper pos. - with an installation diagram and a variant of use for heating a house) - drawings of self-made solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; the heat exchanger is brazed from a copper tube. In the one below, a radiator from an old unusable refrigerator went to him; the dimensions of the box are adjusted to the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen at the dacha is gasified, anyway, from a mains or a cylinder, then you can heat water for a shower for nothing at any time of the year, in any weather, day and night. How? Due to the waste heat (in essence, its own heat loss) of the gas stove. To do this, a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube is encircled by the burners, as shown in Fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's times, when people heard that somewhere there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to maintain other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else you need to remember - the slope of the hot tube should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats up well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn the gas idle, you need to heat the water during cooking. As a rule, for an hour of preparation of lunch, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, we will mention one curiosity - a supposedly hydromassage shower. In fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations with 6 and even 10 diffusers are produced, in advertising brochures loudly called nozzles.

These little souls are just a tribute to fashion, if not the inventions of marketers of the consumer society; simply wiring. For a real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone in conditions of hydroelectricity, which cannot be without a bath with water.

The construction of a summer shower for a summer residence is not complete without questions related to the choice of material and determination of the size of the structure. In addition, you want the building to be heated. This will make it possible to swim on cold days, when the water in the tank does not have time to warm up from the sun. An important issue is the organization of drainage and discharge of dirty water. Today we will look at how to build an outdoor shower with our own hands, and we will try to touch on all the questions of interest.

A country shower is so simple that it does not require drawing up a detailed diagram. Usually they withstand the standard dimensions of the booth 1000x1000x2200 mm. It is impossible to build a booth below, since part of the height will be taken by a wooden pallet, plus a watering can above your head. But it is advisable to individually select the width and depth of the structure according to the physique of the owners. For example, an obese person in a small booth will be cramped, so the size will have to be increased.

Drawing of a simple summer shower for a summer residence

If you decide to cultivate the building, build a dressing room with a dressing room, install benches and a table in it, drawings will already be needed here. Draw what you want to build, indicate all dimensions. When drawing up a detailed diagram, consider the following points:

Wooden shower cubicle

Building a booth made of wood is the most common option due to the simplicity of its construction. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, easy to process. Its only drawback is susceptibility to moisture and bugs, so it requires additional processing. To build a wooden shower for a summer residence, you will need boards and beams, preferably from coniferous trees. You can, of course, use oak or larch. These woods are more durable, but more difficult to process. Having decided on the material, you get to work:

1. Since we are building a wooden shower, the frame will be made of wood. The main load on the racks will be created by the water tank. If its volume is about 200 liters, then the main posts must be installed from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm. To fix the door, install additional posts made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm. The distance between them is equal to the width of the doors themselves with the door frame.
2. Dig holes 80 mm deep under all the uprights. Fill the bottom of the holes with a 100 mm layer of rubble and sand.
3. To make the tree less rotten in the ground, lubricate the edges of the timber with bitumen or machine oil. Wrap the top with two layers of roofing material. Insert the posts into the pits, level them with a plumb line and concrete.
   
4. Another method of extending the life of the uprights is by concreting metal bushings. They can be made from pieces of metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. When the concrete hardens, cut the edges of the square beam with an ax to the size of the inner diameter of the pipes and install them in the concreted sleeves. Concrete bushings from a pipe of a smaller diameter under the door pillars in the same way.
5. When installing vertical posts, make the front ones from the side of the doors 100 mm higher than the rear ones. The difference in height will help build a pitched roof.
6. Connect the exposed racks along the perimeter from the bottom and from the top with horizontal jumpers, securing them with bolts. If you plan to make the floor in the form of a wooden lattice, reinforce the lower lintels with metal mounting angles. The jumpers will support the logs and must support the weight of a person.
7. Now you need to make a frame for the tank from wooden lintels fixed on top of the frame. A tank filled with water from any material has an impressive weight, so the frame for it must be made strong.

   

   Flat water tank mounted on the roof of the shower

8. Cover the sides of the booth frame with a sanded board. Make the door from a board 20-25 mm thick. Cut it to the required length, lay it in a row and sew with transverse beams. From a 40-50 mm thick board, knock down the door frame and fix the door to it with hinges. The entire structure can now be bolted to the door pillars.
9. Treat the finished booth with an antiseptic and cover with linseed oil or varnish. Cover the door with a foil from the inside so that water does not get on it.

Options for wooden summer showers

Polycarbonate booth

A polycarbonate booth is easier to build than a wooden one, but welding experience is required. The fact is that for polycarbonate it is necessary to weld a frame from a metal profile. For racks, a profile with a section of 40x60 mm will go, and for strapping you can use a smaller section. The use of a wood frame for polycarbonate is not desirable, since both materials have the property of "playing" from changing weather conditions. From this, polycarbonate sheets can deform.

The process of making a metal frame for polycarbonate is similar to that of a wooden structure. Concrete the main posts, and then weld the upper and lower lintels. In the middle of the frame, three jumpers must be made so that the polycarbonate sheets do not bend. The fourth is not needed. She will interfere with the doors. Weld the frame under the tank on top. Make a frame under the door from a profile with a section of 20x20 mm and fix it with hinges to the rack. Paint the entire structure with waterproof paint.

For cladding, use opaque cellular polycarbonate sheets, 6-10 mm thick. Cut the large sheet into pieces according to the size of the booth with a circular saw. Fix the resulting polycarbonate plates to the frame with self-tapping screws with a thermal washer. Cover the door with a sheet of polycarbonate too. Bolt the handle and latch to the frame.

Polycarbonate shower option with dressing room

Shower tank

Corrugated booth

A good option for a summer residence would be the construction of a booth made of corrugated board. Lightweight, strong and durable material will last for many years. For a metal profile, both a metal and a wooden frame are suitable, but always with additional crossbeams. Sheets of corrugated board are soft, and additional emphasis will not interfere with them. We build any of the frames for the metal profile in the same way as the above options. In any case, weld the door frame from a metal profile.

Fastening the corrugated board with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sealing washer through one wave. First, fix the sheets of corrugated board on the side walls, then sheathe the door. If you need to cut the material, use scissors or a special disc with teeth on the grinder, so as not to burn the polymer coating of the corrugated board during cutting.

Brick cubicle

The construction of a brick booth in the country requires the construction of a foundation. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 200 mm wide and 400 mm deep around the perimeter of the future structure. Fill the trench with a fight of bricks and fill it with liquid concrete so that it seeps between it. A week after the concrete has set, start laying bricks on the cement mortar. Don't forget to put a box for the door. The door itself can be made of wood or a frame can be welded from a profile and sewn up with a sheet of corrugated board. On the last masonry, wedge wooden blocks across the structure, preferably along the thickness of the brick. You will lay the roof on them and fix the tank.

Installing the roof and tank

The material for the roof will be hard. Slate or corrugated board is well suited. After securing the roofing material, drill a hole in the center of the roof. Place the tank on top so that the water supply tube goes into the hole. Screw a tap and a watering can onto the tube.

The optimum capacity for a garden shower is 200 liters. In the store, you can buy a plastic or galvanized tank or make it yourself by welding from stainless steel. Any container with a neck for filling water will serve as a tank. To make a shower for a summer cottage with heated water, mount a heating element with a capacity of 2 kW in a metal tank. Paint the container with black paint on top. The dark color will attract the sun's rays and the water will heat up faster.

Diagram of a tank for a heated summer shower

If you install wood-burning titanium in a booth in the country, then in addition to hot water, you will get a heated room. Then you will need to install a second tank of cold water next to it.

Arrangement of floor and drainage

The floor and drainage of the shower for the summer cottage can be done in two ways:

Summer shower in a country house

If there is free space, a country shower can be built in the house. To do this, it is better to purchase a shower stall in the store. Make a recess in the concrete floor and install the acrylic pallet according to the product instructions. Connect the siphon on the pallet with a corrugated hose to the sewer. Seal the joints of the pallet to the floor with sealant. Further, according to the instructions, assemble the frame from the profile, install the doors, supply cold and hot water from the boiler.

As you can see, you can build an outdoor shower with your own hands in the country from almost any material. The main thing is to prepare blueprints, materials, tools and to show aspiration.

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