What to make a brush from. How to make a tassel from threads: step-by-step instructions, application. How to make tassels from threads - simple instructions

The old masters made their own paints and brushes. The technology for making brushes is not complicated, but it is responsible and requires delicacy. This is an unusual business, so few people know the secrets of this craft. However, you can make brushes even at home. So, what is the technology for making art brushes?

1. Harvesting hair or bristles.

The hair of animals contains down and straight hair, which is thicker than down and stiffer. I wrote about what hair and what animals classic brushes for painting are made from. When harvesting hair, you need to sort it by length. The hair bundle should consist of hair of approximately the same length. The ends of your hair should never be cut. I wrote why this is important.

2. Forming the basis of the future brush.

Next, the hairs in the hair bundle are aligned in some small cylindrical vessel. The bottom of such a vessel should be flat. The hair descends with its trimmed part to the bottom of the cylinder. Now, it needs to be leveled by gently tapping the bottom of the cylinder on the table. The hairs will settle and become even. After this, they are tied into a bun and combed with a fine-toothed comb to remove unnecessary hairs.

3. Degreasing and tanning.

Degreasing is carried out by soaking the hair bundle in gasoline for 3 days. After this, it is washed with clean gasoline and dried. After which, the workpiece should be boiled in a 10% solution of potassium alum. This is called tanning. Tanning is necessary in order to make the hair non-hygroscopic, flexible and durable.

4. Hardening.

This procedure is necessary to give elasticity to the hair. The hair of a painting brush should be moderately elastic and hard, moderately elastic. To harden, the hair of the future brush is wrapped in thin paper, for example, newspaper and tied with thread. Next, the hair is hardened in an oven with hot air at a temperature of 150 degrees. This is done for about an hour. The time and temperature are not the same for different types of hair and depend on their type. The temperature can be determined by the color of the paper: if it turns slightly yellowish, then the temperature is insufficient. If it turns brown, the temperature is over 150 degrees. In this case, the hair will become brittle, so do not exceed the temperature. After the initial hardening, the hair is combed to remove unnecessary hairs and the hardening is repeated. The quality of hardening is checked by wetting the future brush in water. If the hairs on the surface of the bundle become curly, then the hardening is insufficient.

5. Knitting the brush.

After all procedures, the hair bundle is untied and placed in a cone of the appropriate size with the hair ends down. Next, tapping the cone on the table, you need to straighten the hair. The hair bun should take on a conical shape (if the brush should be round or elliptical). After giving the desired shape, short and unnecessary hairs are combed out of the hair. Then the hair bundle is finally tied with thread. The bandaged area is impregnated with glue.

6. Securing the hair in the capsule.

The capsule is a metal part of the hand that looks like a conical tube. The hair bundle is placed into the capsule on its wide side, after which the hair inside the capsule is filled with glue. (By the way, capsules can be used from old and damaged brushes, after first clearing it of glue and hair.) The length of the hair of the future brush must be adjusted depending on its purpose. Too long hair makes the brush soft and unable to hold its shape well, but it is flexible and holds a large amount of paint. On the contrary, short hair will make your brush hard and unyielding.

7. Securing the capsule to the handle.

Finally, the capsule is placed on a wooden handle. First, glue is instilled into the capsule. After this, the capsule is pressed onto a wooden handle. The brush handle can be tinted, painted and varnished.

If you do everything correctly, the brush will turn out no worse than the factory one. Therefore, I wish you success in this rare craft!

Many needlewomen, having knitted a beautiful scarf, shawl or shawl with their own hands, often think about how they can decorate the finished product in order to emphasize its unique charm and individuality. To do this, you can complement the item with some decorative elements, for example, beautiful tassels or thread pompoms. They can be used to decorate both children's and adult clothing or accessories.

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How to make a tassel from threads - master class

Tassels have been very popular as decoration for more than one season. They can be seen on fashionable bags, home curtains, and various decorations. We invite you to learn how to make tassels from threads with your own hands; the process itself is quite simple and will take very little time. Study our master class carefully and get to work!

Material for work:

• Yarn, any composition and color.
• Scissors.
• A small rectangle made of cardboard; an unnecessary plastic card can be used instead.

Making a brush with your own hands

This is how simple and easy you can make your own brush. Such tassels and pompoms can be made thin and fluffy, short and long. You can use your imagination and use different types of threads, for example: , iris, floss, acrylic. Such a unique element can decorate not only various clothes, but also household items: curtains, pillows, bedspreads. And handmade twine brushes will look like a fashionable and stylish decoration.

Silk thread tassel with decoration

Let me introduce you to another master class on making a brush with your own hands from other materials. In this case, it is recommended to use silk or nylon threads for work., they have a smooth structure and shine beautifully, so the finished product will look very elegant and expensive.

Material for work:

• Threads made of silk or nylon, any color.
• Scissors.
• Template (for winding threads).
• Super glue.
• Caps for beads.

Master class on making brushes

Here are some useful tips that will help you while working:

• If the threads that you selected for making crafts are wrinkled or lie unevenly, you can steam them and they will acquire the desired appearance.
• Treat the ends of the threads on the finished product with ink and they will acquire a vintage style.
• Instead of caps for beads, you can trim the brushes with beads or other decorative elements.

Tassel for knitted hats

In winter, many people wear hats decorated with pom-poms and fluffy tassels. We invite you to find out how quickly and simply you can make a brush that will look great on, and also very beautifully and originally on a knitted hat for adults.

Material for work:

• Thick rectangular cardboard.
• Scissors.
• Wool yarn.

Making a tassel from wool threads:

Tassels are very original decorations that can be made from a large number of different types of materials. In addition, they are quite simple to make; the process does not require any special skills or abilities and any creative person can make them.

Good afternoon everyone. My name is Yana, this master class is dedicated to tassel earrings, or rather to the tassels themselves and two options for their execution. The first option for making tassel earrings is classic, and the second option has a different tip, with a recess in the middle. This version of tassel earrings is less common, but it also has its admirers. To be honest, I have not seen master classes on creating just such brushes. We recently had a review of the threads I use to make tassels. And after this review of threads, I received a lot of questions regarding the manufacture of this particular option. Therefore, today I will show you both options for making tassel earrings.

So, to make tassel earrings we will need: tools, earring fittings, some beads, Swarovski bicone, a piece of corrugated cardboard (7 cm wide), cotton thread, Doli viscose thread, fishing line or monofilament, blade, scissors and needles.

Well, the first thing we need to do is wind threads on a piece of cardboard to get a tassel for making earrings. I do not use various plastic or bank cards. For me, cardboard is the most convenient option. Its width is 7 cm. We will need to make tassels 6.5 cm long. Therefore, a margin of half a centimeter is quite enough for us. On one side and the other we need to divide the cardboard in half. On this side we will tie it exactly in the middle, and on the other side we will trim it, that is, this line will help us do it all smoothly and neatly.

And we begin winding the threads for the tassel, I make exactly 700 revolutions, I do it on a count. I grab the thread with my left hand and begin to wind it with my right. I wind it evenly and carefully, all the threads are parallel to each other, try to keep each thread close to each other, then you will get an even tassel. The width of the winding should not be more than one and a half centimeters in order for the tassel earrings to be smooth and fluffy. That is, to make tying convenient for us in the future, there is no need to wind threads over the entire width of the cardboard. We wind it about a centimeter and a half evenly. And so we do a full 700 turns of thread.

After we have done this, we need to insert cotton threads into the needle and secure the brush. I use a thick needle, it’s convenient to grab all the threads and crawl under them. This way I tie several knots. Exactly in the middle, at the mark that we have, we tighten it, pressing it with our finger, and make another knot.

The threads are not yet securely fastened enough, but we leave them in this position and turn them over to the other side. Here we will use a blade to cut in the same way in the middle, where our marking line is located. Using a sharp blade, we simply press from above a little from side to side, draw it with the blade, and all the threads are cut.

Next, carefully remove the cardboard. On the other hand, we grab the short edge of the thread with our hand, and with the long edge, a long piece, we make another 3-4 turns. We hold it tightly so that all these threads do not move. And exactly in the same place where we have the first turn, we make three more. Next, we intercept, find the short end and here we hold it well with our left hand so that nothing comes loose there, and we make 2-3 more knots. That is, in this way we completely secure the brush. We don’t cut the thread - we will steam it in the future and cut it later. You need to leave some part, cut off only a needle. That is, we will not bandage it here, because we will hide this entire part in the cap. Therefore, we do not need to tie it at this place. It is also not particularly important what color our threads will be. Most often, of course, it is better to match them absolutely to the color of viscose, but in our case, the threads will also be all hidden.

The next stage is steaming the brush for the future earring. After the kettle boils, we need to place the brush over the steam using some kind of stick (for me it’s a sushi stick). This is how we will steam the earring tassel.

As you can see, it only takes a few seconds for our brush to be completely leveled. Now we need to trim it carefully.

In one of the previous videos, I already told you that I trim the tassels using heat shrink tubing. It is sold by the meter in this form. I cut exactly six and a half centimeters, that is, the length that I need, and place the brush inside. That is, for the thread that we did not cut, I completely skip the tassel.

We cut off the excess with a blade. The blade must be very sharp, then the process will be fast and accurate. This is how I cut off all the excess, and the edge turns out absolutely perfect.

If you don’t have such a tube (by the way, it can be found in any electrical goods store), then you can use, like many needlewomen, just a piece of paper. That is, we need to place the brush in paper, wrap it (without a tube, of course) and cut it around the edge. Next, we take the tassel out of the tube and cut off the excess thread. Anyone who wants can drop a drop of glue or nail polish here, but I don’t do that.

Now we need to attach a pin here. I cut off the eye that is on the pin - it is big enough for me. And I make a very small loop - on the very edge of the pliers. I do this so that our trailer gets used to the brush as best as possible. That is, there is such a small loop - I press it back a little. And under the strings I insert it here, like this. We close the loop.

Next I put on the end cap. That is, in this way it is attached to the brush. I place a beautiful decorative bead on top. Next, I need to bend the pin ninety degrees and trim it (leaving about 7-8 mm). And we make a loop again. The tassel earring is almost ready.

That's it, all that remains is to attach the wire. Here I already bend the loop on the earring, hook it to the pin and return the loop to its place. The tassel earring is ready!

The second version of the earring tassel is a little more complicated. We wind the threads, tie and cut the tassel in the same way. Next, we need to take one part and throw the second on top so that, like a palm tree, it is in the middle. We look for the center and help straighten it with a needle.

And then comes the crucial moment. We need it to turn out evenly and all the threads to lie evenly. That is, we correct it several times with all our fingers and bring it to perfection. Sometimes it takes quite a long time. We completely straighten everything out the way we need it. And when we achieve the desired result, we need to tie the tassel. If the tassel lies almost flat, but some threads stick out in the other direction, you can pick them up a little and throw them to the desired side. It is really very important here that this recess is exactly in the center, and all the threads are distributed evenly. Sometimes this is not very easy to achieve, but I still really like this version of brushes.

I cut off the excess thread. There is another small difficulty here - this is to make the second brush exactly the same as the first. Well, it’s not so easy to carefully insert a pin here, because it’s quite thick, and it pulls the strings along with it. I first do this with a needle. That is, I insert the needle straight from the top, as if punching a path for the pin, and turn it over - there it is, the needle. I pull out the needle, remembering where to insert the pin, and push the pin into that place.

Here you don’t have to cut the loop - it won’t be visible. The pin will stay much more secure this way. So he came out about in the middle and caught the strings behind him. I carefully remove them from the pin and push it all the way through. And these threads can be easily corrected. I pull the thread up and look for it here - where it came from, and pull it back. I pull up the next thread in the same way. I catch it from this side and pull it up. And so we return all the threads that came out to their place.

After we have perfected the tip, we need to steam the brush in the same way. Here we have a pin sticking out, so you can grab it with pliers and hold it over the kettle in the same way. By the way, I tried to insert the pin before tying it, that is, with its presence already forming the tip, but, unfortunately, it always turns out sloppily. That is, it’s easier for me to form the tip without a pin and insert it later. You may find it easier to do it differently. I steamed and trimmed the brush. Now we need to place a decorative bead here in the same way. It fits very well into the recess that we made. In the same way, bend the pin 90 degrees, trim off the excess and form a loop.

I deliberately do not pay attention to how I fasten, how I make loops. We have a separate video on working with pins. And today we are talking about brushes. That's why I'm showing 2 ways to make the brushes themselves. And the formation of tassel earrings is everyone’s business. Everyone can have their own.

This is what the almost finished brush looks like. If you carefully bandaged it here, you can leave it like that if you wish, but I usually always decorate this place.

I took Swarovski crystals of the same color, bicones, and with the help of fishing line I will now make a headband in this place. I collect a number of beads. It will be different for everyone, so I don’t focus on this, I try it on so that it’s all even. That is, the headband should sit tightly on the tassel.

And I just tie knots. I always make 3-4 knots. To make the knot invisible, I will pass the needle through 2-3 beads and tighten the knot a little there. Next, very carefully, I use a blade to cut the threads right down to the spine. This is what the headband looks like. I had these large beads on hand, but you can make them smaller. You can use beads of the same color. I will make another headband with gold beads number 15.

We do everything the same. I select the required number of beads, try them on and tie the ring. Everything is the same - I tie knots and cut off the excess.

Well, this is what the second version of the earring looks like. I don't know which option you'll like better.

I like both. I often make both this type of brush and this one. Of course, it’s up to you to decide, but I advise you to try both options - and then decide.

I hope this master class on making tassel earrings with your own hands was useful to you. If so, ask questions, write comments and reviews. We will definitely answer them. and, which were used in this master class, you can purchase in our online store with delivery to your door. If there was anything unclear to you from this master class, you can watch the video master class, in which I show and explain everything in detail:

For hats or bacti, sometimes you want to make tassels. Well, for example, like this:

Let's study!
Making a brush with your own hands is not difficult. All you need for this is nothing: thread, scissors and a piece of cardboard!

Threads and scissors are understandable, but cardboard is needed for a template; you need to wrap it around something. The width of the cardboard should be several centimeters greater than the desired length of the brush. So, in advance we will cut a piece of thread on which our tassel will actually hang. The length of the piece is approximately, well, 30 centimeters. Don’t be sorry, the thread should be longer than the tassel, then you will understand why. Place the cardboard on top and wrap a thread around the top, something like this:

When you decide that you have wound enough threads, cut them and tie the pre-cut piece into one knot. Remove all the threads from the cardboard and then tie the knot tightly and firmly:

Cut it like this:

Now you need to decide what kind of brush you will make, simpler or more complex. It is better to make it simpler with thick threads. Why am I talking about this now? Because there will be a small difference: where to put the fastening thread, up or inside.

So, more simple option.

Cut another piece of thread and tie the tassel with a tight knot, like this, the thread that holds the tassel goes up:

Then wind several rows, tightening them tightly, and tie them carefully again:

If you have thick threads, then you can stop there, just trim the ends evenly and get a simple, but no less beautiful one (I didn’t trim it in the photo):

Now more difficult(don't be afraid, not by much!). Let's go back a little to the moment when we first cut:

Tie tightly, BUT ATTENTION, the thread that holds the tassel goes down, like this:

Turn the tassel over, holding it by the thread and carefully distribute the threads so that they are even:

And tie it tightly for the last time, winding several rows and securing

Now the final touch, carefully trim:

The brush is ready!

Good luck with your creativity!

There are a huge variety of brushes now, and the most unusual ones. Once again, going through my brushes, I decided to figure out the types of bristles, what exactly is suitable for what. After all, we draw so often that we no longer think about why a squirrel is used or how a kolinsky differs from a bristle.

Squirrel

One of the most famous brushes with which many begin learning to draw. They are made from hairs from the tail of a squirrel, and the hair taken from the top of the tail is much more valuable. Such brushes are only round, very soft and elastic; they can also be used to make flute-shaped brushes (but the width of the flute is limited). They are mainly used for working with watercolors and water-based paints, because these brushes hold water well. At the same time, the protein is too delicate for oil and may begin to come out from the solvent. Squirrel hair retains its shape perfectly, does not break, absorbs moisture and washes well under running water. The squirrel brush allows you to paint without uneven stripes and blurry spots due to the fact that when in contact with paper, porcelain, earthenware, the hairs do not separate and lead a clear, directional line. Squirrel brushes need to be carefully looked after. The squirrel's hair is very thin, blue, black or brown.

I read here that the material for these brushes can be the bristles of different breeds of Siberian squirrels.

For example, the hair of the CASAN breed is considered the thinnest. It is used to make tools used to paint ceramics and porcelain. The bristles of the TALUTKY breed squirrel are longer and are used for brushes used for calligraphy. CANADISCHE squirrels are valuable for their short, black hair. Each of their hairs has a thin tip. Therefore, this breed of squirrel makes excellent watercolor brushes.

Columns

Brushes made from its bristles are considered very valuable. The kolonok is a cross between a ferret, a marten and a mink at the same time. There are only a few of these animals in nature, and besides, it is not so easy to prepare. For example, the ponytail of a Siberian weasel produces no more than 2 g of bristles, suitable for brushes. It will make 3-4 thin brushes and 1-2 large ones. For brushes, fur is taken only from its tail and only from animals living in the river valleys of Siberia, China and Korea. Kolonkovy hair is very elastic, light and has a sharp tip. The best quality kolinsky brushes are those made from male hair caught in winter. By the way, a pile column suitable for painting is called spine. Hair color may vary. It depends on the season in which the animal was caught, generally it is golden brown in color. They are similar in quality to squirrel ones, although there are differences. The villi of the column at the very base are much stiffer and thicker, and at the tip they are softer, very elastic and elastic. The brush can be cylindrical or flat, in different shades from light red to dark brown. These brushes are used for both thin and thick paints. In oil painting they are used when making small details; core brushes are also convenient for glazing techniques on wet surfaces.

Sable

The golden mean between soft squirrel and elastic column. The peculiarity of sable brushes is that they are very durable and almost do not wear out, even when working with rough surfaces; they are made from sable tails. The brush is very flexible, picks up a large volume of paint and releases it in doses. Because of these qualities, such brushes allow you to work in various techniques, from “dry” brushes to wet techniques. Everything can be done with one brush, which is very convenient. The best choice for working with watercolors, egg tempera, gouache. Sable brushes are quite rare and quite expensive, but they are worth it.

Marten

Made from the hair of marten or the weasel family. Brushes made from marten hair differ in their properties, depending on what kind of marten it is: lowland or mountain. Brushes made from plains marten hair are as soft as squirrels, but brushes made from mountain marten hair are a little more elastic. On sale, such brushes are less common than squirrel brushes.

Weasel

An alternative to pile column. The hairs are red-brown in color, with a good sharp tip, good fullness, but not as long as that of the Kolinka.

Bristle

Quite tough, elastic and long. It is sorted by shade (available in black, gray and white) and length, treated with chemicals and bleached. The prepared bristles are doused with boiling water, after which it becomes more elastic. When finished, it has a light color. High quality bristles are produced in China and Russia.

You can distinguish this brush from others by visual inspection - the pig's hair is split at the end. It was this feature that led to the use of pig hair - the specific tip allows the brush to absorb a large volume of paint and apply it evenly, without dipping the brush again. The best brushes of this type have up to 80% split hairs, but for art brushes, calibrated unsplit bristles are still better. These brushes are chosen for painting with oil, acrylic (you don’t need to dilute), gouache and tempera. These brushes have a peculiarity - there is no ending at the beam, thanks to this the brush is able to pick up a fairly large amount of paint and retain it. The basic shape of the brush is flat, although there are cylindrical and fan shapes, as well as fluted ones.

Pony

Soft pile with a cylindrical tuft, absorbs water well. The bristles that grow behind the ears or on the back are used. Brushes are often used in schools and kindergartens to teach watercolor techniques. Brushes made from pony hair absorb paints well, but give them off worse than they absorb, they gather into a cone shape, hold their shape well, but do not have sufficient elasticity. This type of hair, like that of a pony, is classified as a decorative hair type, since it does not have a sharp tip, which is why these brushes are not very suitable for professional work. May be brown or white. Designed for working with water-soluble paint: watercolor, gouache or tempera.

Goat

Goat hair is elastic, resilient and quite long, and comes in white and yellow shades. Softer than pig bristles. The brushes retain their shape, absorb paint and water perfectly, resulting in smooth strokes. They are used in watercolor painting, calligraphy, batik and ceramic painting, and Japanese painting. It is noteworthy that for calligraphy, brushes are used mainly with bamboo handles because of their lightness. This brush is suitable for batik work because it can withstand hot wax.

Ear hair brushes

Such brushes are made from hair that is taken from the inside of the ears of oxen and cows, the quality of which is determined by the breed of the animal. Typically, such brushes are inexpensive, but durable, elastic and sensitive in use, give good results and retain their shape well. The hair has a silky texture. They are made flat and round, and brushes are also made for covering large surfaces. Oxhair brushes are used to work with oil paints, acrylic, tempera, and gouache. Cow hair brushes are used to work with almost all types of paints: watercolor, gouache, tempera, acrylic, oil paints.

Mongoose

Mongoose brushes are easily distinguished by the color of the bristles; the tip is dark brown and the base is black and white or grayish. Brushes are cylindrical or flat, elastic and slightly hard. They are usually used when working with thick paints (for example, oil and acrylic). From my own experience, I can say that it can also be used for painting with watercolors using a dry technique; it holds its shape well and has a thin tip, but does not hold water very well.

Wolf

Rather exotic for us, but quite common in the east. These brushes are made from wolf hair. They are distinguished by their special elasticity and elasticity, thanks to these qualities, such brushes are mainly used for calligraphy and guohua painting (a style of traditional Chinese painting in which ink and water paints are used on silk or paper), brushes made from Chinese yellow wolf, which is essentially a columnar.

Bear

Made from processed brown or polar bear hair. Brushes made from polar bear hair are flat in shape with a long or short hair tuft; brushes made from brown bear hair are round, as in the photo above. These brushes are less rigid, but more elastic compared to bristle brushes; they have high elasticity and softness. Used for “heavy” types of paints: oil paints. gouache, etc. Brushes made from brown bear hair are round in shape and are more soft and elastic. Used for working with tempera, watercolor, ink, etc.

Badger

The hair for these brushes is taken from the tail of a badger. Due to its properties, badger fur has become an ideal material for making butter tools. Brushes made from badger hair are softer than bristle brushes, have a conical shape, and are distinguished by their “fluffiness.” The best badger fur brushes can be identified by their white tip and a stripe in the middle.

Manufacturers sometimes imitate them by dyeing pig bristles or goat hair brushes. However, the latter cannot compare with a badger hair brush in their working properties. If you are not sure about the authenticity of the brush, pay attention to the following: if the hair does not have a “belly” or tip, and there are twisted and curled hairs along its length, then it is a goat hair brush; if there are split hairs, it is hog bristles.

Synthetics

Synthetic brushes are made from nylon, polyester and other fibers.
Synthetic hair based on nylon is hard and does not release water, so it is not suitable for watercolor painting, but for oil paints and acrylic this quality is just appropriate.
Synthetic hair based on polyesters provides varying degrees of elasticity. Hairs of different lengths and diameters are collected into a bundle, which gives a capillary effect, which allows you to use such brushes even in watercolors.

Such brushes are less prone to destruction under the influence of thinners, insects, paints, and direct sunlight. But due to mechanical stress, these brushes are inferior in wear resistance to natural ones; the bristles quickly wear out and become soft. There are many variations of mixed types of brushes made from different bristles. They mix both natural piles and combine synthetic and natural ones. Recently, the production of synthetic brushes has been actively developing and high-quality synthetics may well replace or complement natural bristles over time.

A short guide to different materials and types of pile.

Oil - brush bristles, kolinsky, ear hair, synthetics, badger.
Tempera - synthetic, badger, squirrel, brush bristles, kolinsky, ear hair
Gouache - ear hair, synthetics, protein, bristle brush, kolinsky
Watercolor - brush squirrel, kolinsky, synthetic imitation.
Acrylic - synthetic, brush, squirrel.

In addition, there are brushes made from fox hair, hare hair (these brushes are made from a special subspecies of the wild hare), raccoon, rat fur, wild horse mane, camel hair, otter, ferret, pharaoh mouse, young seal, sandstone, Chinese Angking hog , rabbit, ermine, deer, from plant fibers, from chicken fluff, etc.

In Petrykivka painting, craftsmen themselves make brushes from cat fur hairs, the so-called cats. I even found a master class for those who like experimenting.

And here's how the brushes are assembled.

While I was writing this post, I was thinking a lot about the ethics of making natural brushes. It is clear that the technology has been developed for centuries and brushes are often made from fur production waste, but at the same time it is clear that demand can increase harvesting volumes. No one will catch animals and cut off the required amount of hair from them from the required places. Therefore, it’s like with natural fur coats - beautiful, comfortable, but how humane? I personally switched to synthetics and imitation a long time ago; natural brushes are rather rare, but I calmly paint watercolors with synthetics, not disdaining the cheapest brushes. I really hope that over time, synthetics will replace natural fibers and they will become more exotic than a necessity.