What fixes the tiles? How to lay tiles on the wall: lay the tiles yourself with photo instructions. Installation of facade tiles on lathing

Bathroom renovations are rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if they have already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: to hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried-and-true tiler in mind and a certain amount of money (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire him. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively smooth, everything should work out without any particular difficulties. But just before laying tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

It starts, as usual, with choosing a tile. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So, let's check:

From experience, it is worth saying that ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you will be tired of running around the shops. What you shouldn’t do is buy tiles “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it? Take only what you hold in your hands.

What are the tiles placed on?

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do it this way, but it will be more difficult. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compounds; they are also called “tile adhesive” because they contain adhesive components, which is why they sometimes say that tiles are “glued” to walls. Compositions come in two types:

in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
in bags - dry mixtures that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixtures. If necessary, they can be used to correct an imperfect wall, making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain their plasticity longer, which allows adjustments to be made some time later. They work with mastic on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions that contain additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant ones, which will be useful if you place them in an unheated room or outside. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will prevent fungi and mold from developing, which is in demand in damp rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying tiles on the wall, a number of preparatory measures are carried out. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is extremely undesirable to skip it: not every master, let alone beginners, can lay tiles properly on uneven, unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating and anything that may fall off is removed from the walls. If there are greasy stains, remove them, or simply cut off part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden hammer, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet been blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. That’s why you do all these places yourself.

A flat plank is applied to the cleaned base and an assessment is made of how smooth or crooked the walls are. If the wall surface is very convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to a level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively flat, only indentations that are too large are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or holes) that are more than 5 mm. The protrusions need to be cut off, the holes should be filled with plaster mixture, the cracks should be widened, moistened and also covered with plaster.

We prime

It is advisable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. “Betonokontakt” or another composition with similar characteristics is best suited for these purposes. It penetrates to a fairly large thickness deep into the wall, connecting all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, and tile adhesive “sticks” to it very well.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. To put it quite simply, you can lay out the first row right from the corner, following the floor line. But the first row will become level and without problems only if the floor is perfectly level, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will be trimming the tiles to somehow get vertical joints. As a result of these prunings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall, finding the “start” points.

Wall marking

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tile that have to be placed in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want all the tiles to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turns out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try laying it out from the seam, and vice versa. It should come out better.

When placing tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In the bathroom this is often the edge of the installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, arrange (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. This way you will find how to trim the tiles of the top and bottom rows.

There is another way to arrange it vertically: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be trimmed. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. This usually serves as a starting point. This is where the laying of tiles begins.

Start line

Based on the layout results, you have a line where the first row ends. It is at this height that a flat bar is nailed. Resting the tile on it, place the starting row, and all subsequent rows on it. The last row to be installed is the first row, into which the tiles will have to be cut.

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support strip, but a flat dry block can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). To lay tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten them often enough so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check that it is installed horizontally. There shouldn't be even the slightest deviation.

How to lay tiles on a wall

The technology for laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

A few nuances about the complete process. First, the outer whole tiles (those that do not need to be trimmed) are glued to the marked places on the installed plank. When laying out, you noted their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked with a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the geometry of the tile is ideal, you can also check the verticality/horizontalness along the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, using this bar, they check whether each subsequent tile is positioned correctly.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology; after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

Wall adhesive thickness

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, they may have questions about how thick the adhesive layer is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are ideal, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively flat, the “starting” layer can be 3-4 mm. Then, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. It is not always the case that glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some craftsmen apply the composition only to the wall, others - only to the tiles, some recommend dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not do this. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for novice tilers when the mortar is on both the wall and the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly flat base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

With other techniques, consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But you should definitely listen to the prescribed sizes of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are placed. Fusing pads are attached to the platform along which the cutter moves. The cutter moves with the help of a handle, ripping through the durable coating. A stop is usually installed on the same handle, with which the tiles are broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. Besides, you won’t be able to make a perfectly even cut, but it will work in case of an emergency.

If necessary, round holes are cut using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, to ensure that there is as little dust as possible, the work area is constantly watered with water. The result is a perfect hole and everything looks decent.

If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it with a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disk or rod (for some companies, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

If the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be smoothed out a little with a file or sandpaper attached to a block.

Decoration of corners

If the tiles are laid evenly, the internal corners do not raise any questions. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they are not in the way or break off the protruding parts. In general, they join neatly in the corners, and the final seam is formed using grout.

There are also profiles for internal corners. They are matched to the tone of the grout, installed in the corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, the tiles rest on them. This results in a finished fillet seam.

External corners are more difficult. If you simply join the tiles, overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly shape the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45°.

This can be done using a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work with a grinder. The first cut, at approximately the desired angle, is made with a smooth diamond disc. There should be no slits or holes in it, and the spraying should also be even.

It turns out not very smooth, and the outer edge is quite thick. But this is only preliminary processing. We bring the cut to the required parameters using a grinding attachment with the same disc. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to bother with such trimming, there is another option - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another video about how you can design junctions and seams when laying tiles.

To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The “start” location is determined by the height of the tabletop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Attach the bar at the required level, align it exactly with the horizon, and you are ready to begin.

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on the work wall. If it is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

If it is laid out from small-sized tiles, the undercuts may not be very noticeable. If you want to do everything symmetrically, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

The most widespread are porcelain stoneware tiles. It is obtained by subjecting a mixture of several mineral components (the so-called press powder) to pressing at high pressure and temperature. The result is a material that is superior to even natural stone in many respects.

The variety of shapes of facade tiles is very large. Most often these are square or rectangular plates. The dimensions of their sides can vary between 20...120 cm, thickness - 7...30 mm.

Advantages of facade tiles

The material has excellent operational and technological properties:

Can be used for finishing houses made of any material - brick, gas or foam concrete, wood;
Has very high protective properties - both in relation to mechanical and atmospheric influences;
It has a huge number of color and texture options. In this regard, facade tiles can satisfy the most demanding taste;
Virtually no maintenance or repair required;
Can be easily dismantled and reused;
Has high frost resistance. This characteristic is more characteristic of porcelain stoneware tiles, the moisture absorption of which is 100 times less than that of natural granite (0.05% versus 5%, respectively).
Has a long service life. It is difficult to talk about exact time parameters, but the material with which the houses were decorated in the 60s of the last century still does not show any signs of aging or destruction.

Read also the article about in addition to this material.

Methods for installing facade tiles

Known two ways finishing the facade with decorative tiles:

attaching the tiles directly to the base using glue (this method is called “wet”);
installation on a lathing fixed to the wall (dry method).

Read also about it on our portal.

Each of these types of installation has its own characteristics. Fastening with glue is carried out mainly on brick or gas and foam concrete walls. This method ensures the solidity of the wall and the strength of the cladding, but is quite labor-intensive work.

Installation of facade tiles on the sheathing is more universal. It can be carried out at any time of the year on walls made of any material, including walls made of wood. The “dry” method makes it possible to insulate the walls simultaneously with cladding.

Installation of facade tiles with glue

Before you start laying the tiles directly on the wall, you need to level the base. This is done by plastering. The technology of work in this case is no different from the usual one, except that there is a mandatory requirement to use a reinforcing mesh. Its purpose is to ensure high adhesion strength of the plaster to the wall.

General tile installation procedure as follows:

The wall is cleaned of dirt and primed;
A layer of plaster is applied into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. After this, another layer of the mixture is applied and the surface is carefully leveled. It is desirable that the total thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 2 cm;
The adhesive composition is prepared in strict accordance with the instructions;

Video instructions for installing clinker tiles with glue
Before applying adhesive to the tile and wall, both surfaces must be moistened with water. It is most convenient to apply the adhesive composition using a notched trowel;
Installation of tiles begins from the bottom corner of the wall and extends upward and to the side. The tile is applied to the wall and pressed tightly against it - so that a bead of squeezed out glue appears on all sides;
After installation, the seams are unstitched and rubbed with a special compound. The correctly chosen grout color gives the facade an even more aesthetic appearance.

Installation of facade tiles on lathing

The method is based on mechanical fastening of the material to the base. The role of the latter is played by a wooden (from timber, board) or metal (from a special galvanized profile) sheathing

Read and get answers to your questions.

Tiles intended for mechanical fastening have embedded elements (for example, galvanized sheet plates). The exact order and method of attaching the material is specified in the instructions for it. In general terms it is as follows.

To ensure that the rows of tiles are even and positioned strictly vertically and horizontally, before installing the sheathing, horizontal markings are made along the entire perimeter of the building using a level. It is a guideline for attaching horizontal and vertical frame elements.
The method of attaching beams or profiles to the wall depends on the material from which the wall is made. For brick and lightweight concrete foundations, dowels or frame anchors are used. For wooden ones - screws or nails. The sheathing pitch depends on the size and configuration of the façade tiles.
If the house is insulated at the same time as the cladding, insulation is placed between the beams (or profiles) of the frame. A waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane is attached on top of it. There must be a gap between the back side of the tile and the surface of the membrane necessary for ventilation of the façade structure/
As in all similar cases, the installation of slabs begins from the bottom corner of the wall and extends upward and to the side. It is very important to control the horizontal and vertical rows. The slabs are fastened using the fasteners that come with the cladding. Usually these are screws or self-tapping screws.

Probably no renovation is complete without tiles. Ceramics have many advantages over other finishing materials in many situations. And when it comes to decorating a bathroom, tiles are the absolute leader. However, laying tiles is not a cheap pleasure, and it is also a terribly interesting activity. These factors provoke many home craftsmen to work with their own hands. If possible, practice should be preceded by theory, so we tried to ensure that the article gives an idea of how to lay tiles on a wall.

We are not considering floor cladding here, but we assure you that if you master laying tiles on a wall, the floor will seem like an easy base. Vertical surfaces involve fighting gravity, the need to manage complex geometry and take into account many more parameters. However, it is not the gods who burn the tiles, and it is not the inhabitants of Olympus who do the finishing of the tiles...

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Surface preparation

Ceramics can be laid using two types of mixtures: tile adhesives and cement-sand mortars. There are other binders, but they are used in special cases and have no relation to everyday construction tasks. Preparation of the base depends on the type of solution. Having given preference to glue (and this is the most popular solution today), the walls are plastered or covered with plasterboard. In any case, the base plane should tend to the ideal.

Gypsum plaster Knauf Goltband Beacon profiles are leveled in a flat plane and fixed to the solution. The plaster is applied to the wall and smoothed using the beacon rule.

The use of cement-sand mortar requires large layers of the mixture and a lesser degree of preliminary leveling with your own hands. We will describe how to glue tiles onto a flat surface. This method is more modern, but the main thing is that it can be mastered quickly. The “mortar” technique requires much more refined skills, and even many tilers do not fully master it.
Make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. The pipes should be hidden, eliminating the need to be distracted while laying ceramic tiles on the wall. The flatness allows you to use a minimum of glue and speeds up the cladding several times. Prime the leveled base, especially carefully if the walls are plastered.

We are making channels for pipes.
We connect the pipes for the bath and hide them in the wall.

If the base has previously been prepared and painted, you need to remove the paint layer or make frequent cuts. Nothing should peel off or crumble. This is important because negligence will lead to extremely short-lived styling.

Tool

Wall cladding requires special tools. Make sure that before starting work you already have:

trowel or spatula;
comb (notched spatula);
bubble level;
hydraulic level or laser;
wire cutters;
tile cutter;
rule 1.5 m;
grinder with diamond wheel;
tile crosses/wedges;
foam sponge;
rubber spatula.

Roulettes and other hammers were not included in the list; it is assumed that every household already has them. When mixing glue, it is difficult to do without a drill with an attachment, so it is advisable to have one. You can knead with your own hands, but correctly - with the help of a tool.

Marking

The basic rule of cladding: visually important places should be given a whole tile. The purpose of the cut tiles is to be located where it will be less noticeable or hidden. Calculate the number of slabs before leveling the base. You may have to level with a slightly larger layer if the geometry requires too small a piece of tile in the corner. It’s better to lose a little space than to admire a two-centimeter “stub” for many years. If the corners are visually equal, it may be worth trimming to the edges, and to the same extent. Although there are certain design rules here, in reality the owner’s taste comes into play.

Vertical layout is based on the whole tile at the top rule. But again, there are exceptions, so use common sense. Do not forget to take into account the height of the floor and ceiling, as well as the joints between the slabs. Over a large area, despite their apparent insignificance, the latter play a large role, accumulating up to several centimeters in total.

The marking also depends on the type of ceramic layout. The most common:

“seam to seam”;
at a run;
diagonally;

It is unlikely that you will start with the last method, it is the most difficult. The second imitates brickwork; it is easiest to glue tiles this way. The most popular type is the first, it requires careful adherence to the vertical and horizontal, any deviation will be noticeable.
A good video about the correct layout:

As a rule, gluing should begin from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that it is correct to cover floor tiles with wall tiles:

it looks better;
water flowing from the walls does not flow into the contour seams;
cutting wall ceramics is much easier;

If you have already laid the floor (although this order is not according to the rules), start laying the tiles on the wall from the very bottom. But this option is unlikely, do not forget about the whole tile under the ceiling. Unless the height of the walls allows you to do without trimming.
Having decided on the beacon row, “punch” the marks of the upper edge of the first row using a water level. The presence of a laser will make the work easier, but the tool is specific, and there is no point in buying it specifically. Plastic tube is much cheaper, and unless you have a large area to tile, forget about the laser. Surely you know about the principle of communicating vessels, so we will not dwell on the operation of the hydraulic level.

Mark the horizon immediately along the perimeter, make sure that there are no problems with possible trimming around the pipes. Sometimes it is necessary to shift the marks to avoid a complex cut. Further on the marks you can:

pull the beacon cord;
draw a solid line;

The first option is still preferable, as it allows complete control over the horizon and plane. Let’s make a reservation that wall cladding with mortar involves only this point. Plumb lines will help you control the vertical, or what is much more common when finishing tiles with glue, the same line, but already along the Y axis.

The use of glue requires a support strip that secures the beacon row. Typically an aluminum profile or wooden slats are used.

To prevent the tiles from sliding down, we attach a 27x28 mm profile according to the marks. In this bathtub, an even layout from the center was chosen to create 2 equal trims along the edges.

Laying tiles

You need to glue it with tile adhesive that suits the task. Kneading with your own hands does not allow you to quickly bring the mixture to the desired consistency, so use a mixer. Apply the composition to the base or tile using a spatula. After application, remove excess glue with a comb, as a result, an even layer of grooves will remain on the surface. Select a notched trowel based on the size of the tile and the plane of the base. The larger the plate and the worse the plane, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.

Align the first tile along the horizontal and vertical marks. If using cord, start from the second row from the corner; After you remove the thread, you need to lay the rest of the tile. Fix with wedges placed between the ceramic and the support bar. Lay out the row, excluding the trim. Leave space between the plates, achieving uniformity using crosses (a popular size is 2 mm).

After a day, the support strip is dismantled and the bottom row of tiles is laid.

Control the plane using the cord or, if you don’t use thread, using a rule. The edges of the tiles must coincide with the beacon string. Check each row using a bubble level to ensure it is vertical. This is how you decorate the walls with your own hands. Trimming can be done immediately, but it is more convenient at the end of the stage. Remember to follow the pattern and remember that ceramics can have a lackluster pattern. On the back of the tiles there are arrows that show the direction of installation; they should always be in the same direction.
Video on how to properly lay tiles on bathroom walls:

Tile cutting

When finishing tiles with your own hands, you can do without expensive cutting tools. If you have a tile cutter - good, if not - use a glass cutter or scriber with a pobedit tip. Mark the cutting line, fix the slab on a flat surface and run the tool along the line several times. Next, you need to place the tile with cutting marks on a couple of nails and gently press - you have a finished trim. If you use a tile cutter, run the roller once, repetitions lead to defects.

In this way, they cut in a straight line, but tiling the walls also involves a shaped cut. Cut holes for pipes using a grinder with a diamond wheel. If there are few holes and there is no angle grinder, you can use a cheap diamond-coated blade. But this is a labor-intensive and time-consuming task, and is only justified economically.

Grouting joints

After laying the tiles on the wall and floor, the seams are cleaned of glue and rubbed with a special compound. The grout is applied to a rubber spatula and the gaps between the slabs are filled with the mixture. Depending on the material and skill, 1-4 square meters are processed in one approach. Residues are removed with a foam sponge. It is used to bring the filler to a smooth state, distributing the grout evenly along the seams.

Do-it-yourself wall cladding, which you have mastered at a basic level, requires an understanding of the nuances. Some of them:

Before laying the tiles, check their quality, geometry and compliance with the calibration. Sort by size to make it easier to get straight seams.
Prepare the surface carefully, do not skimp on primer and maintain right angles.
Use on outside corners. Although it is not so beautiful, it is safe.
The tiles must be glued to a dry surface.

Expenses

Costs for tiling a bathroom with an area of 3.5 m²:

2 guide profiles 27x28 mm - 90 rub.
(25 kg x 3 pcs) - 717 rub.
Strengthening soil Plitonit 1 l. - 98 rub.
300 pcs of plastic crosses 2 mm - 60 rub.
Kiilto grout 3 kg - 320 rub.
Self-tapping screws, dowels - 20 rub.

In total, installation cost us 1,305 rubles + the cost of tiles and preparatory work (plaster). If you do wall cladding yourself, you will need to spend money on the missing tools. For tiling the walls in a bathroom of this size, a tiler will charge at least 13-15 thousand rubles, including grout. Buy a tool that will remain with you forever and do everything yourself, or pay for the work of a master and calmly sip tea while styling - everyone will decide for themselves.

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Preparing a bathroom where ceramic tiles are to be laid on the walls begins with an inspection of the room. The walls are checked for unevenness and lack of verticality. Piping in the bathroom must be installed before. If the surfaces are uneven or deviated from the vertical, then these defects must be eliminated by plastering with sand-based cement mortar. The bathroom walls are measured to calculate the area and the number of tiles. The necessary materials and tools are purchased:

sand;
cement;
tile adhesive;
grouting into seams;
plastic crosses for laying tiles;
a bucket for mixing glue;
drill with mixing attachment;
building level;
notched spatula;
simple spatula;
white rubber spatula;
rubber sponge;
sanding block;
moisture-resistant primer;
tile;
metal profile or rail for laying the first row;
diamond bit for cutting holes;
plastic wedges;
roulette;
tile breaking tongs.

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Surface preparation and marking

Old coatings are removed from the surface. Then the dust is carefully removed and the walls are leveled with cement-sand mortar. For this purpose, plaster beacons are used. If the wall material has poor adhesion, then a reinforcing mesh is used for plastering. When plastering work is completed, you should take a break for two weeks to allow the surface to dry completely.

Before purchasing tiles, you need to determine the installation method. The easiest way is direct installation. The tiles are attached to the wall from bottom to top. It is better to purchase tiles with a margin of 10-15% for breakage during transportation and during work. If the height of the bathroom is small, then it is recommended to use rectangular tiles laid vertically.

Laying the tiles begins by drawing a strictly horizontal marking line for the second row from the bottom. The line is marked at a height equal to the size of the tile, reduced by at least 20 mm. Height is measured from the lowest point of the floor. The size of 20 mm is taken based on the fact that cutting a smaller strip of tile is extremely inconvenient. The first row is left to align with the floor plane by cutting the tiles. You can start from the first row if the floor is strictly horizontal, which is rare. Using screws and dowels, a plank is installed on the marked line on which the second row of tiles will rest. After installing the second row, this profile is removed and the bottom row, consisting of trimmed tiles, is installed.

Plastic wedges are used to glue the tiles next to the bathtub.

After drawing the horizontal line, vertical guidelines are drawn on the wall. The vertical starting line is marked in such a way that after filling the horizontal row there is no gap of less than 25 mm. In addition to the fact that such a strip is difficult to cut, a vertical row of such narrow tiles will immediately look like a disadvantage. If, during preliminary layout, the tile squares do not fit into a whole number, then the first vertical line should be drawn in the middle of the wall and laying should begin from this line. To decorate the corners, a plastic corner specially designed for this purpose is used. Another method of laying in corners is to grind the joining face surfaces at an angle of 45° with a grinder. After trimming, the irregularities are sanded with a whetstone. You can level the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard, but with this method the volume of the room is slightly reduced, but the work is completed faster.

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Gluing tiles

Bathroom tiles are laid using dry cement adhesive with a composition intended for walls. The glue is prepared by mixing the structural components with water. In this case, the mixture is poured into water, and not vice versa. Bathroom walls must be treated with a moisture-resistant primer. It will provide the necessary waterproofing and reliable adhesion of the tiles to the wall. During the gluing process, you need to be careful and constantly monitor the evenness of the surface, verticality and coincidence of edge lines. You need to attach the tiles in small sections, marking squares with a side of four tiles.

Plastic crosses help maintain the distance between tiles. A day after gluing, the crosses are removed. The glue is spread on the wall with a notched trowel. This tool is used to cover the tiles with glue. The tile is pressed with slight movements parallel to the wall. Some craftsmen advise moistening the tiles, but this is not necessary - the supporting surface of the tile absorbs the necessary moisture from the adhesive solution. Laying should be done slowly, so that after gluing each tile, the adhesive sets. In a hurry, you can inadvertently move a tile that has not set firmly enough and thereby weaken the reliability of its future fastening. When pressing the tiles against the wall, you do not need excessive force - this way you can squeeze out almost all the glue from under the tiles. Part of the composition squeezed out is removed with a wooden or plastic spatula to avoid scratches on the surface.

If it is necessary to bypass obstacles in the form of pipes, ventilation holes or doorways, the necessary cutouts are made in the tiles. Some tricky areas can be bypassed at the time installation is planned to make cuts easier and in fewer quantities. If possible, it is best to use a tile jigsaw. Such a tool is equipped with a wire or rod on which an abrasive composition is sprayed. With this method, obstacle avoidance is ideal. If you don’t have a jigsaw, use a grinder. In this case, the cutouts are obtained with corners that should be covered with some details that do not disturb the harmony of the tiled covering. If there is a need to drill holes in the wall to place any interior items, it is better to postpone this work until the walls are completely dry after cladding.

After finishing tiling the wall, all that remains is to fill the gaps with grout. This is done using a white rubber spatula by moving the tile diagonally. An option for direct installation would be checkerboard installation. It uses tiles of different colors, laid in the form of a checkerboard. There can be as many ways of laying tiles as the master’s imagination allows. One of the most common is diagonal. To mark the wall you need to draw two perpendicular diagonals. They should be located at an angle of 45° to the upper edge of the future full cladding. Laying tiles begins from the middle of the surface, first all intact tiles are attached. There is no need to lay the entire diagonal at once, but glue it in sections, as with direct laying. It is better to place the last triangles along the edges of the cladding at the end of the work.

The vast majority of apartment owners, faced with the question of how to decorate their bathroom walls, prefer tiles. Ceramic tiles are simply ideal for rooms with high humidity. If it is chosen and secured correctly, the room will be beautiful, comfortable, and safe. The article will discuss how to glue tiles in the bathroom so that the finishing of the bathroom fully corresponds to its purpose.

Where to begin?

To answer the question of how to properly glue tiles in a bathroom, you first need to have these tiles. And not only her, but also a lot of other things - materials and tools. First you need to determine the number of tiles and estimate the type of tile.

Important! As for the sizes, everything is quite simple - in small bathrooms you need small squares or rectangles, in spacious ones you can glue any kind of tiles, including figured tiles.

The surface of the tile can be:

matte;
glossy.

Important! The glossy one looks more impressive, but the matte one shows less streaks and drops, which almost always appear on the walls in the bathroom. But with proper care, this small drawback can be avoided.

We calculate the quantity

First you need to calculate the surface area to be covered. For example, the wall area is calculated using the most common formula:

multiply the length by the height;
determine the area of all other planes;
add up the results;
divide by the area of one tile;
add another 10-15% to the resulting amount.

Important! The reserve is necessary, because in some places you will probably have to lay not whole tiles, but halves or even quarters. Plus, you should take into account possible damage.

Here it is necessary to clarify that tiles are sold by square meters. But you may also need other elements:

panel;
border.

They are sold individually, although the area for the panels is also indicated.

Important! When purchasing, be sure to check the lot numbers on the packages. They must match.

What to fasten with?

The tiles need to be glued to something. In addition, the wall should be as smooth as possible, and the seams should be clean and neat. Accordingly, you will need some more materials:

deep penetration soil;
cement-based grout;
tile adhesive;
"liquid Nails".

Important! In addition, it is possible that the wall under the old finish is not as good as you would like, and you will have to level it, so you will need putty. However, you can get out of the situation in another way if you have already started a major reconstruction. A cement slab would be an excellent base. This, of course, will cost more, but the result will be more impressive.

Tools

Is it possible to make high-quality repairs without a trowel and brush? Of course not. Therefore, make sure that everything you need for gluing tiles in the bathroom is always at hand:

perforator;
chisel attachment;
drill;
mixer attachment;
primer brush (maklovitsa);
2 metal spatulas of different widths;
rubber spatula for grouting;
metal tile floats;
roulette;
level;
rubber hammer.

Let's start preparing

The bathroom renovation is being carried out gradually:

The subfloor and screed are being made.
Plumbing is being installed.
Tiles are glued to the floor and walls.

That is, by the time you are puzzled by the question of how to stick tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, the bathtub and washbasin should take their places. It will be a great shame if they suffer from your inept actions. Therefore, they need to be protected, just like brand new taps. For this you need:

thick polyethylene film;
cardboard;
scotch.

Important! The film is sold in gardening supply stores - greenhouses are made from it. It is wide, so a couple of meters is enough for your eyes. Any cardboard will do, including packaging cardboard; any box will do.

Here's what you need to do:

Cut a piece of plastic film large enough to completely cover the hot tub.
Attach the plastic with tape in several places.
Make cases out of cardboard, like the ones they sell light bulbs in, only bigger, and put them on the taps.

What are your walls covered with?

After everything has been purchased, the plumbing has been installed and even securely closed, it’s time to tackle the actual walls. This is where the fun begins. The answer to the question of how to glue bathroom tiles to a wall largely depends on what the wall itself is made of. She may be:

wooden;
concrete;
plasterboard;
from chipboard;
brick.

Great options are brick and concrete. You don’t need to do anything special, just level the surface, and then you can safely glue the tiles in the bathroom. It is much worse if the surface is wooden or chipboard, or even ordinary plasterboard or fiberboard (this also happens). In these cases, it is very useful to install a cement board or a moisture-resistant plasterboard panel. Cement board is especially good in an older home where there is already trim on the walls that will have to be removed. If the wall is dilapidated, a cement slab will not save you - it does not strengthen the surface, but only saves you from the need to level it.

Important! Plywood is not suitable for leveling the wall in the bathroom, since this material does not tolerate humidity and high temperature.

Putting the stove on

To install a cement slab you will need a few things:

the slab itself (sold in hardware stores by area);
grinder or knife.
painting mesh;
marker;
long, straight rail;
roulette.

First of all, the slab must be cut to size. This is done in the usual way:

The slab has right angles, and it makes absolutely no difference how you cut it, so set off the length and height from one of the corners on adjacent sides.
Draw perpendiculars to the marks until they intersect.
Check parallelism of lines and angles.
Using a knife, make grooves along the marked lines to a depth of 2 mm.
Break the slab and it will break evenly.

You can also cut it with a grinder, only then you will have to immediately prepare a vacuum cleaner - there will be a lot of dust. There are two mounting methods:

based;
on the frame.

The question will inevitably arise as to which side of the slab should be adjacent to the wall, and which side the tiles will be glued to. In any case, it is more convenient to glue the tiles onto a rough surface. But there are exceptions - for example, mastic will adhere perfectly to a smooth surface. The DSP is screwed to the frame or base with self-tapping screws, the pitch is 15-20 cm.

Important! If the slab is composite, the fragments should not be adjacent to each other closely - there should be 3 mm gaps between them, and the seams should be taped with a paint mesh and then with fiberglass tape.

Straight to the wall

If you decide to do without a cement slab, get ready for quite labor-intensive and dirty work. Before you glue the tiles in the bathroom, you have to work on the wall:

You need to remove the old finish, and as carefully as possible: if the tile is well glued, you will have to break it, and remove the remaining fragments with a hammer drill.
It makes sense to carefully inspect the wall, and in some cases even tap it, so that poorly placed plaster crumbles and only those fragments remain that hold securely.
All recesses and depressions must be thoroughly puttied.
After the wall is dry, don't forget to sand it.
To improve the adhesion of the tiles to the wall, apply a layer of deep penetration primer, preferably with antifungal components.
Let the soil dry.
Apply another coat of primer.
Level the wall again.
Check for vertical deviations - for the tile to hold well, the wall must be free of distortions.

Preparing the premises

Actually, you don’t need to prepare anything special - your bathtub is already closed, and neat covers are put on the brand new taps. But you also need to take care that after the repair you don’t have to redo everything in a couple of months. To do this, you need to make a waterproofing layer around the bathtub. As for the remaining areas, it all depends on the specific conditions - in most cases you can do without additional waterproofing.

Final preparations

Good preparation is half the battle, but everything needs to be followed through. The time has come to tackle the actual tiles.

The tile should lie flat, and it is desirable that whole elements are visible, and halves and quarters - somewhere in the corners, where x is not so clearly visible. But the question remains open: what can you use to glue tiles in the bathroom? If you didn't buy the adhesive at the same time as the tiles (and this is the best option), the time to do it is now. The store will offer you a dozen or two packages, the compositions are not much different from each other, so choose the one that has the most understandable instructions. The idea is simple - if a manufacturer cares about the customer to the extent that he provides his product with extremely clear instructions, he cares about his reputation and produces goods of good quality.

Begin

Every novice craftsman is concerned with the question of how to glue these beautiful squares or rectangles so that they do not fall off and stand straight? You already achieved half of this when you leveled the wall. Now only a little remains. In order for the tiles to lie flat, the wall needs to be marked into zones - preferably into squares or rectangles of the same area. You should mark according to the level, carefully checking the parallelism of the lines:

Check whether the horizontal row will consist of whole tiles or whether trimming will be needed - to do this, simply lay the tiles along the wall, without applying glue to them for now.
If the whole number of tiles does not fit, move the row.
If you are laying down a whole quantity again, mark the row so that the halves or quarters are not in a visible place.

Important! Never check the horizontal lines of the bathtub - it is deliberately placed at a certain angle, so that the rows will turn out crooked.

In what order should I glue?

So, you have everything marked out, the number of tiles in a row is determined - what next? And then decide where exactly you will start gluing. Experienced craftsmen recommend starting from the center, especially if you have a panel. But for this approach you need to very carefully calculate the number of rows.

Important! There is another way - from the far lower corner.

We dilute the glue

Try to correctly calculate your strength. How many tiles can you lay in a day? The amount of cement-based glue that needs to be diluted also depends on this. The compositions used are different, but the packaging must indicate that the adhesive is suitable for finishing interior spaces with tiles.

There may be some deviations in the preparation method, but usually the procedure is as follows:

Pour 0.25 liters of warm water into a clean container.
Gradually add 1 kg of adhesive mixture, mixing thoroughly.
Stir until the mixture becomes homogeneous.
Leave the glue to sit for about five minutes so that it swells.

Important! Why is it necessary to prepare strictly the required amount of glue? Because most often the composition retains its properties for about four hours. So it’s better to dilute it a little, and if you then want to work more, make a new portion. You can also find ready-made adhesives and mastics on sale. There is no need to dilute them, but they are more expensive than dry ones.

And finally...

Glue the tiles in small areas strictly according to the markings.
When individual elements are larger or smaller than others, the rows can turn out even if you make the seams wider or narrower.

Important! In order to control the process, there are plastic crosses; they set the direction of the vertical and horizontal rows.

To make the row even with respect to the font, you will need plastic wedges - buy them in the same department as the crosses.

What should I apply the glue to?

In some cases, the glue is applied to the tiles, in others - to the wall. This is indicated in the instructions for the glue. But, no matter what composition you choose, take into account some features of the material you are working with:

Apply adhesive to the tile or wall.
Level the layer with a spatula-comb.
If you apply glue to a large area at once and it starts to dry out, scrape it off and apply a new layer.
Press the tile down.
Check its position (a short bubble level is convenient).
Glue the next tile.
When the row is ready, check it with a long level.
If the tile protrudes above the plane, level it with a rubber hammer: generally, periodically tap the wall where it is already tiled - by the sound you will know whether there are voids left under the tiles or not.
Remove any excess glue from the seams immediately.

If you need halves

It rarely happens that a whole number of squares fit on the wall. Usually several tiles have to be cut. How? There is a manual rail tile cutter for this:

Mark the line along which you want to cut.
Make a scratch.
Separate the tiles - this is quite easy to do.

In addition to the tile cutter, there are other tools that allow you to cut fragments from tiles:

drill with a ballerina attachment;
tile nippers.

Grout

Have you installed the tiles? Great, but that's not all. It is necessary to tidy up the seams, and before that, wait a day until the glue finally sets. Compositions used:

cement-based;
epoxy based.