What is the tile attached to? Correct installation of bathroom tiles on walls. Deciding on the quantity

The exterior decoration of a house can be done in a variety of ways, from applying plastering materials to various methods of installing siding.

The choice of one type of finish or another depends on the capabilities of the owner, his aesthetic preferences or the availability of a certain material.

In addition, the choice is often based on the ability to perform the work independently.

In this regard, facade tiles are a material that has the widest range of possibilities.

Unlike siding or facade panels, which have a certain general technological sequence of installation, they are produced in many versions and do not have a uniform installation technique.

Depending on the design, it can be laid using traditional technology, or installed using methods similar to the siding installation technique. The main difference between facade tiles and other types of exterior finishing is the independent installation of each element, a wide variety of types, materials and appearance.

Facade tiles are a material that has many different types of manufacturing and installation options.

Installation possible:

For glue. The method is most similar to the methods of laying tiled coverings.
For fastening materials (screws, clamps, etc.).

Can be used for the manufacture of facade cladding:

Porcelain tiles, artificial stone.
Cement mortar.
Plastic (polypropylene, vinyl, etc.).
Fiber cement compositions.
Polymer sand.
Basalt.
Asbestos-cement, etc.

It differs in:

wood effect tiles;
concrete;
flexible;
polymer sand;
terracotta;
bitumen.

The main task of facade cladding is to form a protective coating for the house that can withstand external atmospheric manifestations and has high decorative qualities. There is a special attitude towards the appearance of the finishing, since it is the external effect that is the first thing that catches your eye when looking at any home.

In this regard, facade tiles break all records - they have the largest number of types of imitation stone or wooden surfaces. All design options used in the production of siding, facade panels and other cladding are used in the manufacture of facade tiles.

NOTE!

Unlike all types of exterior cladding, some types of facade tiles can be quite successfully made with your own hands. Basically, this is the casting of various cement-containing solutions into existing molds from special latex. This method is attractive because the production of the material is carried out directly on site. In addition, if any section fails, there will be no problems with replacing the cladding.

Accessories for facade tiles

The presence of components is not typical for all types of facade tiles. Many types of material are laid using conventional technology and do not require additional elements. This situation is typical for small material.

If the elements are quite large in size, then it will not be easy to do without specialized parts. Typically, corner profiles are made that make it possible to carefully line the outer (in some cases, inner) corners of the house.

In addition, fastening elements such as clamps, mounting brackets, etc. can be used as component materials. For some types of material, manufacturers provide for the creation of a subsystem - a supporting structure for installation to form a ventilation facade.

At the same time, most types of tiles intended for dry installation are not strictly tied to the type of subsystem and can be installed on any planks - wooden or metal.

Plastering and surface reinforcement

Tiles that are installed with adhesive require a smooth and uniform base. The walls of a house, especially if the building is older, may have a large number of different flaws - cracks, dents, peeling or crumbling areas. In addition, external insulation can be installed on the wall surface, requiring a dense layer to be applied on top for laying the tiles.

The best base is considered to be a layer of plaster. If it is applied to a rigid base, then you can do without reinforcement, but if you are plastering relatively soft insulation, or the wall material is loose and prone to crumbling, then for the strength or resistance of the plaster to mechanical stress you will need to use a reinforcing mesh.

A metal or fiberglass mesh is used, which is installed on the insulation or on the wall and a layer of plaster is applied on top of it.

When using beacons (guides) to level the surface of the plaster layer, the reinforcing mesh is installed in advance, before installing the beacons.

It is necessary to understand that the presence of a mesh does not prevent cracks from appearing or strengthens the wall material. The mesh serves to increase the strength of the plaster, without contributing to the strength of adhesion to wall materials. Therefore, on problem walls, before plastering, all weak areas should be removed as much as possible, after which a layer of deep penetration primer should be applied.

When plastering over insulation, first of all you need to apply a layer of mortar onto it with a notched trowel, lightly press the mesh into it, then, on top of it, apply another layer. Then the mesh will be inside the layer, which will allow it to perform its functions to the maximum extent.

Surface preparation

The wall surface should be cleared of all foreign objects attached to it - remove all lights, disconnect trims, gutters, brackets, air conditioners, etc. Then you should carefully inspect the wall, determining the quality of the surface, the condition of the material and the number of problem areas.

Existing cracks should be opened with a spatula to ensure their depth and to facilitate access to the plaster material. Delaminations or shedding must be removed as much as possible; the entire wall must be strong, without problem areas, and reliable.

After cleaning the wall, apply a double coat of primer with an intermediate drying period. It is recommended to pre-fill large potholes with mortar so that the subsequent layer is more even.

Surface marking

If you plan to install tiles on a subsystem, then preliminary marking of the surface will be required. It is necessary that the location of the sheathing strips corresponds to the tile attachment points. To do this, measure the distance between adjacent fastening elements vertically and horizontally and, taking into account the obtained values, apply markings on the wall with the resulting pitch.

When performing the operation, it is necessary to control the horizontal and vertical using a building level. If you plan to use corner profiles, then when marking you should take into account the features of their installation and ensure the appropriate arrangement of the strips.

Setting the initial (starting) bar

The tile starter strip serves as a reference line to ensure that the first (bottom) row is installed level and level. Since the design of the façade tiles does not have any lock connecting to the starting strip, an ordinary flat strip of any material is sufficient to support the bottom row; later it will still be removed.

Installation of the starting strip is carried out along a line drawn along the perimeter of the house strictly horizontally and corresponding to the bottom cut of the first row of tiles.

Methods of fixing tiles

Depending on the design, the method of fastening facade tiles may be different.:

“Wet” method - using an adhesive composition. Specialized types of adhesives are used that are intended for tile materials (porcelain tiles, fiber cement, clinker, etc.).
Fastening with self-tapping screws. It is possible to have a hidden fastening (hidden seam), or open with a visible fastening location.
The use of various mechanical fasteners - for example, clamps. With this method, fixation is carried out using specialized devices that best match the material used in size and other indicators, but significant secrecy of the fasteners cannot be achieved - the clamps are noticeable on the surface of the tile. If the size is small, this spoils the overall appearance of the cladding.
Facade tiles with metal fasteners.

Typically, each type of tile is designed for a specific installation method, which cannot be changed.

Preparation of the adhesive composition

To lay tiles, you should use specialized or, at a minimum, types of adhesives that are most suitable for their characteristics. It is sold in dry form and must be diluted with water to a certain consistency.

The thickness of the finished solution should be such that the glue can be applied freely, does not drain from the surface, but is not too viscous. There are a great variety of types of glue; to avoid possible errors, you should read the instructions for use on the packaging.

Accurate adherence to the instructions, adherence to the dilution ratio and the holding time of the composition before use increase the strength of the adhesive and its adhesion to the tile and base.

Tile laying technology

The tiles are laid from the bottom up in the direction corresponding to its design (especially if there is a hidden seam). The glue is applied with a notched trowel to the surface of the wall and to the tile, and the direction of the glue strips should be transverse - if the lines on the wall are horizontal, then on the tile they are vertical.

NOTE!

For most types of tiles, pre-soaking is not necessary, but the porous surface of the base must be moistened with water.

How to tile corners and openings

If there are appropriate corner profiles for the tiles, then they are used to decorate the outer corners of the house and window or door openings. If such elements are not provided, then the corners are formed in the same way as when applying ordinary tiles - by precise adjustment of the material and careful installation in the corners.

In any case, the outer corners are tiled first, then the window and door openings are decorated. If there are corner profiles, then the openings are formed with them, but if only tiles are used, then the slopes should first be faced, and the outer frame of the opening is made integral with the wall canvas.

Grouting joints

The seams between the tiles must be grouted, i.e. filling gaps to prevent water from entering wall materials. For grouting, the same types of adhesive are used that were used during installation, or special compositions for external use; the method of application depends on the type of tile and its design features.

At the same time, not all types of tiles need grouting, but only those that are installed with glue and have gaps. When applying grout, you must be careful as many types of grout are difficult to remove from the tile surface. It is recommended to remove excess glue immediately before it sets.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to lay facade tiles:

Conclusion

Using facade tiles is a more labor-intensive option for exterior finishing than, for example, installing siding, but as a result you can get your own version of the coating. Many options for choosing both material and pattern or color of the tiles make it possible to embody many design ideas and create a strong decorative effect.

At the same time, the protective properties of the tiles, which provide protection from atmospheric moisture and the effects of temperature, make it possible to increase the service life of the walls of the house.

In contact with

Tile tiles are a fairly heavy but durable material that is difficult to glue to walls, ceilings or floors using conventional means. How to properly glue tiles to different surfaces so that beautiful decor and reliable protection last as long as possible?

Let's look at the main methods of fixing tiles and the necessary materials in this article.

Choosing the right glue

There is a wide range of modern products used for gluing tiles, which can be divided into three groups:

mixtures based on rubber and high-tech plastic;
various cement mortars;
numerous adhesives.

Universal types of glue can be used for any surface, but experienced craftsmen recommend using highly specialized types of glue. For example, to glue tiles onto tiles, you will need to clean the surface from gloss, and then use cement-based screeds and mortars.

Attention: if you do not remove the top layer of old tiles using a grinder or manually using coarse and medium sandpaper, the new surface will crack at the joints in a very short time.

When choosing the best adhesive for working with tiles, you need to pay attention to the following indicators:

Does this type bind the surface tightly enough?
What surfaces is it designed for: vertical, horizontal or any.
Is the adhesive suitable for all types of work (interior and exterior).
What is the rate of hardening and hardening of the product?

If there is a problem of how to glue tiles to tiles, preference is usually given to cement mortars based on PVA construction adhesive or silicone. The second option is more expensive, but fast and convenient.

Attention: when choosing sealants, you need to make sure that they are not water-soluble, otherwise if the temperature or humidity rises, all the work will have to be redone.

Choosing a tool

Each individual case will most likely require different tools, but there is a list of tools that you cannot do without when laying new tiles:

a convenient plastic container - you need to be prepared to throw it away when using quickly hardening cement mortars (1);
special grater with sponge (2);
metal graters with a user-friendly handle (3 and 4);
angled, straight or beveled notched trowel (5 and 6);
a convenient rubber float for smoothing seams and rubbing them (7);
a regular brush or soft broom to sweep away particles of the solution after complete drying.

A tile has fallen off - what to do?

If there is no need for a complete replacement, then the question arises - how to glue the fallen tiles faster and more reliably?

To do this, you need to follow a simple plan of several points:

All remaining mortar is removed from the wall and tiles. This is a rather labor-intensive but necessary process, without which the tile will not be able to hold firmly in place.
Apply adhesive or a suitable solution to the surface of the tile using a notched trowel.
The part is pressed firmly into the desired location and held for several minutes or according to the instructions on the solution packaging.
The seams are rubbed with putty or treated with sealant.

Attention: traditionally, if you need to fix one or two tiles, use “liquid nails” glue.
The application technology is the same, but instead of a metal spatula, you can use a rubber analogue.

Fashionable plastic border - how to attach it to tiles

To glue plastic parts to tiled walls or ceilings, you can choose one of several options. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages, so you need to consider: the weight of the plastic part, its location relative to sources of humidity and the final cost of installation.

Means for gluing plastic to tiles

Epoxy resins. This material is suitable for securely fastening cable ducts and borders in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity. Permabond ET 500, a clear and fairly easy-to-handle resin, may be a good option.
Sealants. Not a very expensive product, but it takes a very long time to dry and has a tendency to stretch during use. This method is almost always not suitable for fixing parts on walls without additional support.
Cyanoacrylate adhesives. Suitable only for dry rooms, as the product is water-resistant.
Liquid nails and traditional automotive tape. The first option is good only if it doesn’t matter whether the material is transparent. They try not to use adhesive tape in very hot or humid rooms.

We glue tiles onto non-standard bases

Many summer residents are interested in how to glue tiles to plywood? Most buildings on personal plots are made from scrap materials, so it often becomes necessary to fix tiles on non-standard bases.

What to use when gluing tiles to chipboard or plywood is what the country “old-timers” are divided into:

You can use proven liquid nails. In this case, the surface of the plywood or chipboard must be rough; this effect can be achieved using simple sandpaper;
If it is possible to prime the base using any convenient means, for example, Biotex, you can use KS glue. This product is popularly called liquid glass;
You can first glue thin drywall to the plywood, and then fix the tiles on it with liquid nails or a special tool for working with modern drywall;
The most non-standard method: the surface is coated with any NC varnish, and the tiles are fixed using crushed polystyrene foam soaked directly on the tiles with acetone.

Bottom line

There are a great many ways to fix tiles on a variety of surfaces. In every case, it is worth using the services of professionals or choosing specialized glue and tools. The main rule: thoroughly clean, degrease and level the surface where the tiles will be attached.

A universal means of fastening tiles is cement mortar. It reliably attaches the tiles to the surface and levels the base, filling holes and cracks in it. Cement mortar tile flooring is used in bathrooms, showers, laundry rooms, kitchens, hallways, and lobbies where the floor is periodically wet or subject to heavy use (high traffic areas). Coatings on a cement layer are made on a concrete or brick base, reinforced concrete floor panels.

To fix the tiles, prepare cement mortars of the following compositions:

1) for wall cladding - cement grade 400 and sand in a ratio of 1: 6; 2) when installing floors made of tiles (including for screeds) - grade 400 cement and coarse (grain size 1-3 mm) sand to reduce shrinkage in a ratio of 1:3; 3) to fill the joints between the tiles - grade 400 cement and fine-grained sand in a ratio of 1:2.

When carrying out tile work, a dry mixture is also used to prepare colloidal cement adhesive KCK, which contains Portland cement of a grade of at least 400 and quartz sand in a ratio of parts by weight of 7: 3, additives. KCK glue is prepared immediately before starting work: add the required amount of water to the dry mixture, mix thoroughly for 2-4 minutes. The pot life of KCK glue is 2-3 hours.

Cladding work using cement mortar is quite labor-intensive and requires certain skills and experience. The viability of solutions is only 4-5 hours, so the work must be done quickly. It also takes considerable time to prepare the solution at the workplace. If when tiling a small room or repairing coated surfaces these disadvantages are not so noticeable, then with a large volume of work and the absence of special equipment (mixers, paddle mixers, templates for laying tiles on mortar), it is more convenient to carry out tiling using dry mortar mixtures or mastics. Cement mortars harden slower than mastics; this property is even convenient when laying tiles on horizontal surfaces. When facing walls (smooth vertical concrete or plastered bases), it is more convenient to use quick-drying mastics.

For wall cladding, bitumen, casein, and polymer cement mastics are used, as well as adhesives based on resins and drying oils. You can purchase mastics of the desired composition and properties in specialized stores ready-made or prepare them yourself from available materials. Tiles are glued to concrete surfaces with polymer-cement mastic prepared on the basis of a dry cement-sand mixture (the ratio of the weight parts of cement and sand is 1:8) by adding water and polyvinyl acetate dispersion (PVA). With continuous stirring, pour water (12% of the total mass) and PVA dispersion (3%) into the container, then add the dry mixture (85%) or cement and sand in small portions, mix for at least 5 minutes. The time for using this mastic is 3-4 hours.

If the mastic contains bitumen, asbestos, and mineral powder as a filler (the ratio of the weight parts should be 3: 1: 1), then it is used for hot installation (165-170 C). Cold bitumen mastics (lime-bitumen, cement-bitumen) are a solution of petroleum bitumen in kerosene (or any other organic solvent) with the addition of lime (lime paste or ground limestone) or asbestos.

Casein-cement mastic is easy to prepare at home. To do this, you need to prepare dry casein glue, Portland cement grade 400 or 500, fine river sand and water. The weight ratio of the components of the mastic is 1: 3: 1: 2.5. Mastic is also prepared without adding sand; in this case, for 1 part by weight of dry casein glue, take 3-4 parts by weight of cement.

Dry casein glue is soaked in the specified amount of water and left for about 40 minutes until completely swollen. At this time, prepare a dry cement-sand mixture and add it gradually to casein glue. The mixture is thoroughly mixed, and when lumps form, filter through a sieve with cells measuring 1x1 mm. The recipe and procedure for preparing the mastic are strictly observed; for example, neither cement nor sand can be added to the finished mastic so that the adhesive composition does not lose its properties. The time of use of this mastic is no more than 2 hours.

In rooms with high humidity, when covering walls with ceramic or glass tiles, mastics based on synthetic resins and drying oil are used.

To attach tiles to wood, concrete, brick and plastered substrates, thick oil-based paint is used. Any base must be primed by dissolving the paint to a liquid state with drying oil, or simply drying oil.

For gluing glass tiles, it is best to use paints in neutral light colors: white, ivory, white-gray. Dark paint will show through through thin tiles; the appearance of such cladding is unaesthetic. Ceramic tiles are glued to paint in a tone that matches the type of finish. If finishing is carried out according to the principle of color contrast, then the tone of the paint should contrast with the color of the front surface of the tile. In this case, the seams between the tiles must be made perfectly even, the intersections of the seams must be made cleanly. Another finishing option: the color of the tiles and the tone of the grout (in this case, the seams will be filled with paint) should either completely match or only differ slightly in intensity and tone saturation (for example, blue and dark blue, light green and green).

The paint prepared for work is applied to the back side of the tiles (or to the tiles and base) in a thin layer of 1-2 mm, the tile is pressed to the surface, and the paint that is squeezed out is immediately removed with a clean rag moistened with kerosene or gasoline (any solvent for oil-based paints). .

other materials on the topic "Decoration Materials"

1. Prime the wooden surface. Priming should be done with a special water-based primer or tinted impregnation. This will reduce varnish consumption and allow you to get a more even top coat. 2. To obtain a “mirror” finish, use the wet sanding method before priming. Sand the wood, previously well moistened with water, and let it dry. 3. Sand each layer of water-based varnish with fine sandpaper, except for the final top coat. This will help to obtain a mirror-smooth surface. 4. When choosing a varnish, keep in mind that if the surface you are painting has defects and irregularities, a glossy varnish emphasizes them, and a matte varnish hides them. 5. Water-based varnish can be used to renew a previously painted surface. To do this, sand the previous varnish layer and degrease it with an aqueous soap solution. 6. To dilute water-based varnish, use clean water; do not add organic solvents to water-based varnish. 7. Do not mix water-based varnish with drying oil,...

Glue is a sticky, hardening composition for a tight connection and fastening of parts. Start on time The choice of adhesive is carried out simultaneously with the choice of the material that will be glued. You can often purchase adhesive of the same brand as the finishing material (for example, some wallpaper manufacturers produce adhesives of the same brands as the wallpaper). Where to start It is necessary to determine: what type of glue is suitable for working with a specific material; prepare the surface appropriately, which will determine the subsequent strength of the connection; carefully read the instructions for using the glue. All types of adhesives are produced: in the form of a dry mixture, which is diluted with water in the proportion indicated on the packaging; ready to eat. It is important to know that the main characteristics of glue are: adhesive ability (adhesion); safety; There are universal adhesives that can be used for gluing various coatings (both ceiling panels and tiles). The use of special glue for certain types of...

Trust "Vostokkhimzashchita" carries out work in the field of industrial and social construction: installation of mineral bases, protection of metal structures and technological equipment, application of polymer systems, finishing and repairs.

The technological service of the enterprise uses the most advanced building materials and technologies, guaranteeing a high level of quality and long service life.

The tiles are fixed with cement mortar, glue or mastic. Cement mortar is more durable and is not afraid of high temperatures, unlike cement mortar.

Adhesive solutions

Cement mortar remains the most versatile and reliable material for fixing tiles of all types on any surface. It is prepared from 1 part cement and 4 parts sand.

Compared to cement mortar, mastics and adhesives are less labor-intensive to use, but they are only suitable for smooth surfaces. Before purchasing a solution, make sure that it matches the characteristics of the selected room (waterproof - for the bathroom, toilet and kitchen, cold-resistant for the balcony...). If you still decide to do everything yourself, you can prepare mastic at home. To do this, you need to take a container and mix 1/4 of dry casein glue and 3/4 of cement in it. Then you need to mix until smooth and strain through a fine sieve. The mastic is suitable for use within two days. You can also prepare casein mastic in the following way - mix 1/5 casein powder, 2/5 lime fluff, 2/5 water, and 0.1 part antiseptic (sodium fluoride) in a container.

Preparing a bathroom where ceramic tiles are to be laid on the walls begins with an inspection of the room. The walls are checked for unevenness and lack of verticality. Piping in the bathroom must be installed before. If the surfaces are uneven or deviated from the vertical, then these defects must be eliminated by plastering with sand-based cement mortar. The bathroom walls are measured to calculate the area and the number of tiles. The necessary materials and tools are purchased:

sand;
cement;
tile adhesive;
grouting into seams;
plastic crosses for laying tiles;
a bucket for mixing glue;
drill with mixing attachment;
building level;
notched spatula;
simple spatula;
white rubber spatula;
rubber sponge;
sanding block;
moisture-resistant primer;
tile;
metal profile or rail for laying the first row;
diamond bit for cutting holes;
plastic wedges;
roulette;
tile breaking tongs.

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Surface preparation and marking

Old coatings are removed from the surface. Then the dust is carefully removed and the walls are leveled with cement-sand mortar. For this purpose, plaster beacons are used. If the wall material has poor adhesion, then a reinforcing mesh is used for plastering. When plastering work is completed, you should take a break for two weeks to allow the surface to dry completely.

Before purchasing tiles, you need to determine the installation method. The easiest way is direct installation. The tiles are attached to the wall from bottom to top. It is better to purchase tiles with a margin of 10-15% for breakage during transportation and during work. If the height of the bathroom is small, then it is recommended to use rectangular tiles laid vertically.

Laying the tiles begins by drawing a strictly horizontal marking line for the second row from the bottom. The line is marked at a height equal to the size of the tile, reduced by at least 20 mm. Height is measured from the lowest point of the floor. The size of 20 mm is taken based on the fact that cutting a smaller strip of tile is extremely inconvenient. The first row is left to align with the floor plane by cutting the tiles. You can start from the first row if the floor is strictly horizontal, which is rare. Using screws and dowels, a plank is installed on the marked line on which the second row of tiles will rest. After installing the second row, this profile is removed and the bottom row, consisting of trimmed tiles, is installed.

Plastic wedges are used to glue the tiles next to the bathtub.

After drawing the horizontal line, vertical guidelines are drawn on the wall. The vertical starting line is marked in such a way that after filling the horizontal row there is no gap of less than 25 mm. In addition to the fact that such a strip is difficult to cut, a vertical row of such narrow tiles will immediately look like a disadvantage. If, during preliminary layout, the tile squares do not fit into a whole number, then the first vertical line should be drawn in the middle of the wall and laying should begin from this line. To decorate the corners, a plastic corner specially designed for this purpose is used. Another method of laying in corners is to grind the joining face surfaces at an angle of 45° with a grinder. After trimming, the irregularities are sanded with a whetstone. You can level the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard, but with this method the volume of the room is slightly reduced, but the work is completed faster.

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Gluing tiles

Bathroom tiles are laid using dry cement adhesive with a composition intended for walls. The glue is prepared by mixing the structural components with water. In this case, the mixture is poured into water, and not vice versa. Bathroom walls must be treated with a moisture-resistant primer. It will provide the necessary waterproofing and reliable adhesion of the tiles to the wall. During the gluing process, you need to be careful and constantly monitor the evenness of the surface, verticality and coincidence of edge lines. You need to attach the tiles in small sections, marking squares with a side of four tiles.

Plastic crosses help maintain the distance between tiles. A day after gluing, the crosses are removed. The glue is spread on the wall with a notched trowel. This tool is used to cover the tiles with glue. The tile is pressed with slight movements parallel to the wall. Some craftsmen advise moistening the tiles, but this is not necessary - the supporting surface of the tile absorbs the necessary moisture from the adhesive solution. Laying should be done slowly, so that after gluing each tile, the adhesive sets. In a hurry, you can inadvertently move a tile that has not set firmly enough and thereby weaken the reliability of its future fastening. When pressing the tiles against the wall, you do not need excessive force - this way you can squeeze out almost all the glue from under the tiles. Part of the composition squeezed out is removed with a wooden or plastic spatula to avoid scratches on the surface.

If it is necessary to bypass obstacles in the form of pipes, ventilation holes or doorways, the necessary cutouts are made in the tiles. Some tricky areas can be bypassed at the time installation is planned to make cuts easier and in fewer quantities. If possible, it is best to use a tile jigsaw. Such a tool is equipped with a wire or rod on which an abrasive composition is sprayed. With this method, obstacle avoidance is ideal. If you don’t have a jigsaw, use a grinder. In this case, the cutouts are obtained with corners that should be covered with some details that do not disturb the harmony of the tiled covering. If there is a need to drill holes in the wall to place any interior items, it is better to postpone this work until the walls are completely dry after cladding.

After finishing tiling the wall, all that remains is to fill the gaps with grout. This is done using a white rubber spatula by moving the tile diagonally. An option for direct installation would be checkerboard installation. It uses tiles of different colors, laid in the form of a checkerboard. There can be as many ways of laying tiles as the master’s imagination allows. One of the most common is diagonal. To mark the wall you need to draw two perpendicular diagonals. They should be located at an angle of 45° to the upper edge of the future full cladding. Laying tiles begins from the middle of the surface, first all intact tiles are attached. There is no need to lay the entire diagonal at once, but glue it in sections, as with direct laying. It is better to place the last triangles along the edges of the cladding at the end of the work.