How to build your own house. How to build your own house with your own hands and how to do it cheaper. Foundation, walls and roof

The cost of building a house of the same area can vary by two or more times.

You can reduce the construction budget if you invest your own labor, knowledge, energy, and talents in this business.

A low-cost home should not be:

Very small. Its size should meet the needs of your family.
Uncomfortable. It should match the lifestyle of your family.
Low quality. You can use cheaper, but solid traditional solutions. As a rule, such solutions turn out to be easier to implement.

What can you save on

1. You can save a lot by choosing a house design, which should have economical solutions for the layout and structural elements of the house.

Architects who offer ready-made projects are not interested in the cost of the house. Their task is to charm the developer with a beautiful facade and sell the project.

A beautiful picture acts like a drug - the developer decides at all costs build a large, complex and therefore very expensive house.

The project of an inexpensive house is a one-story house with a gable roof on a shallow foundation with floors on the ground. Total area 123 m 2 . The house has no interior load-bearing walls. There is no attic floor - the suspended ceiling is attached to the roof trusses. The slope of the roof slopes is 20 o. In summer, the living area increases due to the large, more than 20 m², fully covered and protected by walls of the terrace, pos.13.

The project of an inexpensive house is:

Rectangular in plan house with a gable roof;
a one-story house without an expensive interfloor ceiling, stairs and numerous windows;
a house without a basement, because if it is available, expenses will increase by at least 30%;
house on low and;
a house without unusual elements - bay windows, arched windows, tympanums, columns, balconies, pilasters, stairs, two-level rooms, winter gardens;
a roof with two, in extreme cases, five slopes (sometimes there are fifteen of these slopes!). Corners, valleys, lucarnes, skylights and a lot of tin elements - such a roof can cost 40% of construction costs;
outer walls, the most simple in construction;
windows of standard size;
simple interior and exterior wall decoration;
traditional cement-lime plaster facade.

The simple form of the house is the epitome of the ultra-modern architectural style of the Barn house. A distinctive feature of the style is exquisite conciseness, which is achieved by the right choice of proportions, as well as the texture and color of the exterior finish, in harmony with the surrounding space.

Dedicate maximum time and energy to choosing an economical home design.

Read articles on choosing the main parameters of a house project:

2. On finishing work. The “minimum” option: walls with traditional plaster or, on the floor - laminate, in the bathroom - simple plumbing.

3. On materials. You can entrust the construction contractor with choosing, purchasing and delivering materials to the construction site - you have less worries. But If you want to save money, then take this job on yourself.

You can buy well-known brand name materials or purchase the same materials from local or lesser known manufacturers. Moreover, they will not be inferior in quality to the first, but their price will be lower. To save money and not make a mistake in choosing, collect all available information about the manufacturer, prices in the construction market in your and neighboring city, as well as reviews about the quality of the product.

However, remember the basic rule of the market - quality costs money.

Many sellers give seasonal discounts from the price during the period when the demand for building materials falls. This usually happens from November to February. Keep an eye on prices and purchase expensive materials during this period.

From what to build a house, from what material?

SNiP 23-02-2003 proposes to carry out, by making appropriate calculations, the optimization of the building envelope according to.

For different designs of house shells (walls, floors), the total cost of construction is calculated 1 m 2 wall or floor surfaces rub / m 2. Then the heating costs of a house built using these different shell designs are determined. For each design, a payback period is found - the period of time for which the construction costs will pay off.

In different regions, depending on the cost of the fuel and building materials used, as well as the severity of the climate, different results are obtained for the payback period of a particular wall or floor structure.

If you do not have certain preferences from which to build a house, then ask local designers for the results of such calculations. Choose the design of walls and ceilings with the shortest payback period for construction costs in your area.

Calculations and construction practice show that in places with a harsh climate and (and) expensive fuel it is more profitable to invest in highly effective heaters.

In harsh climates or when heating with electricity, it is advantageous build double walls with a thin, but strong, and therefore relatively cheap, bearing layer (, etc.) masonry thickness 180-250 mm. and insulate them with a rather thick layer of effective insulation - 100-300 mm.

In areas with very severe winters in a double layer wall it may turn out to be advantageous to lay the bearing part from less durable, but more "warm" blocks: aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete or porous ceramics, density 600 - 1200 kg / m 3. Such a solution will make it possible to reduce the thickness of the layer of highly efficient insulation, but due to the lower strength of the wall material, it will be necessary to increase the thickness of the walls.

One square meter frame wall contains the maximum amount of highly effective insulation. This is perhaps the most profitable wall construction in terms of construction cost recovery.

Frame wall of an inexpensive house for a harsh climate:

Between the racks of the frame, a plate of mineral wool insulation with a density of at least 45 kg / m 3, thickness 100-200 mm.
Outside insulation boards made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or foam plastic or facade boards made of mineral wool with a density of at least 125 kg / m 3, thickness 40 - 100 mm.

However, the frame house has, which not all developers like.

It is profitable to build a house with frame walls and in areas with less severe winters. The outer layer of insulation on the frame wall in areas with a milder climate can be omitted.

In areas with mild winters less expensive are houses with light, warm porous ceramics or without additional insulation and masonry thickness not more than 510 mm.

Wooden walls made of timber or logs in most climatic zones of Russia do not provide modern requirements for heat saving. The wooden walls of houses for year-round use need additional insulation.

In the comments, please, justify your choice: cheaper, warmer, more durable, etc.

Laying the foundation at the first stage from scratch

From the very beginning, you need to choose a place where the future structure will be located. Next, you need to check at what level the waters of the soil are, if it is higher than the standard, then it is better to abandon the construction in the lowland.

But building a house on the hills is not the best option, because the building will be strongly blown by the winds and will lose reliability over time. A plot on a flat terrain is the best option.

The type of foundation will depend on the weight of the building, how many floors, what the water level of the soil is, and the type of soil.

If the house has several floors, and even with the use of heavy materials such as reinforced concrete blocks, bricks, then it is necessary to fill in a solid foundation, for example, tape or slab. If you are building a house on stilts, you must also use such a foundation.

Be sure to read

Planting an orchard in a summer cottage, the choice of fruit trees and crops

A shallow and columnar foundation is suitable for houses that are of a panel type or frame type, the height of which is up to one and a half floors. The choice of foundation plays a huge role when it comes to soil type.

So, on peat, you can use the pile type, because it is able to withstand even a heavy structure, even in a place where the ground water level is high. The whole mass of piles rests on the dense part of the soil, thanks to which the house stands securely.

We build walls, floors and roofs

Many are wondering: how to build a roof at home. Only this is almost the very last stage after the floor and walls are installed.

We build the floor: this is done after the concrete dries. You need to start by laying out a horizontal beam, which has a large diameter. The bars need to be connected to each other. Bars in the form of sex logs are also nailed across.

The main thing here is the implementation of phased actions. So, after laying the bars, you need to lay the floor, for starters, a rough one is stuffed, waterproofing is placed on top, and after that the floor board is already laid.

Next, walls are erected from the material you have chosen. If the house is built with the help of beams - they are laid one on one, the panel structure assumes the presence of a frame. Only after that the roof is laid. Usually, a lattice of boards is built here, then waterproofing is built from above, and only from above does the laying of the main material begin.

Building your own home is an economical solution that suits people with extensive building experience. The disadvantage of this technique is a high risk of errors both during construction and connection of communications and decorative finishes. But there are also important advantages: savings on the final cost (sometimes up to 40-50%), and full tracking of work.

With proper preparation, and the presence of certain skills, when building a cottage with your own hands, you can save several hundred thousand rubles and, at the same time, build a full-fledged housing for permanent use. How to build a cottage with your own hands, what you can save on, in what order to do the work, and what mistakes to avoid, will be described below.

The order of work in self-construction

Proper step-by-step execution of work allows you to carry out repairs without unnecessary errors and haste. To reduce the likelihood of budget miscalculations, it is better to immediately develop an individual construction plan for yourself or use the example below.

1. Budget calculation

The minimum threshold for building a house is usually 400-500 thousand rubles, although the exact amount depends on its area, purpose, and seasonality of use.

If you need to build a small summer house one floor high, you can limit yourself to costs of 150-200 thousand. 400-500 thousand rubles is the minimum required to build a family home with insulation.

The future owner must decide how much money he can spend on the construction of the house, its interior and exterior departments, the purchase of furniture and plumbing. Based on these data, a project is already being drawn up, building materials are being selected.

2. Design

You can complete this step yourself. To facilitate the planning of the house, there are special online programs (both narrow-profile and universal, for example: 3Ds Max). If desired, the universal program can be mastered in 1-2 months, the simplified one - in a few days. Independent planning and design of the building is a significant savings item.

3. Selection of materials

The choice of necessary materials for the construction of a cottage depends on climatic conditions and the planned project. So, for example, it is better if the load-bearing floors are only along the outer contour of the building, because then it will be possible to save on internal floors. See below for information on how to reduce the cost of purchasing building materials.

4. Coordination of the project with the family and technical supervision

Technical supervision during the construction of a house is mandatory: it allows you to avoid legal violations, and also eliminates the risk of increased fire and explosion hazards.

5. Selection of contractors, construction team

In order to save money, you can complete all the stages of building a house with your own hands, but this, as a rule, leads to a decrease in the quality of the building, a decrease in its durability. Even an experienced builder will need help.

Builders should not be entrusted with all the work: the most difficult stages are laid on their shoulders (building a foundation, installing load-bearing floors).

Further, construction is carried out, then the summing up of communications, exterior decoration, installation of plumbing and interior decoration. The last stage is the installation of furniture. When finishing the premises, a certain order must also be observed: first the ceilings are plastered, then the walls are finished, and the floor is finished last.

How to reduce the cost of building a house?

Budget houses are often built from low-quality and short-lived materials. This is the main mistake of people building their own housing.

Savings must be smart: you can reduce costs without compromising the durability and strength of the building by choosing cheaper secondary elements.

Exterior and interior decoration

You can achieve a pleasant appearance for several tens of thousands of rubles. Instead of expensive panels, masonry, brick outside, you can use:

siding (20-50 thousand for an average house);
traditional plastering with a thickness of 3 mm with further painting;
simple treatment of wood with antifungal impregnation.

The cheapest option is the latter, but it is short-lived. The coating must be re-applied every 3-4 years, otherwise the wood will fade or rot. The aesthetic side of this finish leaves much to be desired.

The most popular option is siding. It allows you to hide the shortcomings of the main coating (for example, plywood, which is often used for budget construction). The disadvantages of finishing are a high risk of fire, low environmental friendliness, the risk of green plaque in humid regions. Siding needs to be cleaned, with strong winds and poor installation it can simply be torn off.

The best option is plastering. It is environmentally friendly, safe from the point of view of ignition. Plastered walls look smooth and attractive.

Another interesting solution is artificial stone. If they finish the lower plinth of the walls, framing the doors and windows, the building will even look luxurious.

Sewerage

Connecting to a public sewer (which is rarely available) is expensive. Therefore, when building private houses, owners most often equip autonomous sewers and septic tanks.

Conducting communications from all plumbing elements and, in particular, from the toilet is not necessary. Drainage of liquids used for washing dishes and personal hygiene can be done with simple ditches. Most summer cottages are surrounded by them around the perimeter. If they are not there, you can dig trenches yourself at no cost at all.

A septic tank is installed to collect waste from the toilet. Its price, taking into account installation, ranges from twenty to several hundred thousand rubles. For a small country building, the most budget option is also suitable.

number of storeys

The construction of multi-storey buildings is more expensive, since it requires the creation of expensive floors between floors. You can save money by increasing the area of the first floor, rather than building the second.

Another feature of the floors: it is better to place the load-bearing elements along the outer contour of the building, since in this case the internal ones can be made non-bearing. This will greatly reduce the cost of the project.

Warming of individual parts of the house

If a small family lives in a cottage in the winter, and relatives come to visit it in the summer, it is not necessary to make insulated guest bedrooms. Instead, a large covered terrace with glazing or walls is often arranged. In summer, the temperature is warm enough for guests to spend the night.

You can refuse insulation in the garage, utility rooms, in the dressing room (undesirable).

What is better to entrust contractors in construction?

If you try to reduce the cost of building the main parts of the building, the house will not last long and may even collapse. Below are things that you should never save on, and it is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Foundation, walls and roof

In the construction of budget houses and cottages, a shallow foundation is used. Some builders are trying to save money by using punched reinforcement. This leads to a decrease in the strength of the foundation, which is unacceptable. Reinforcement must be of high quality.

In the absence of experience in the use of concrete, it is better to entrust the work of pouring the foundation to professionals. Otherwise, additional costs for leveling the lower trim may be required.

As with the installation of the foundation, the installation of the roof and the installation of rafters, it is better to contact special construction companies. Then it will be possible not to worry about fire safety, that the house will sag or turn out to be skewed, that the roof will collapse during a snowfall, etc.

Summing up communications

The laying of the gas pipeline to the house, the connection of electrical networks, the wiring of the pipe must be carried out by professionals, since if installed incorrectly, the risk of emergencies is high. When supplying gas, technical supervision is mandatory, with which it will be necessary to coordinate the location of the column relative to other premises and household appliances.

Also, you should not save on gas by simply giving up on it. If, due to a tight budget, the house is cold and requires constant heating, it is more economical to use gas rather than electricity for this purpose.

How to insulate a house?

Any houses and cottages built for permanent residence require wall insulation. When it comes to an inexpensive dacha or cottage, we are often cited as an example of frame buildings, which are very popular in Europe and the USA. They are cheap, quickly built, materials can be bought in any market. However, in the conditions of our Russian climate, with temperature fluctuations up to -20 or even -30 degrees in winter, it is comfortable to live in such houses only in the warm season.

Houses made of brick and concrete require a minimum of insulating materials. With a large thickness of the walls, you can do without them altogether. What can not be said about other materials: plywood, SIP panels, wood, aerated concrete, etc.

Therefore, a significant expense item in the construction of a summer house or a house on your own is the purchase of insulation. It will cost at least 50 thousand rubles when buying polystyrene foam for a two-story house.

Most people who build their own houses prefer to build with wood and then insulate it cheaply with styrofoam. In the cold season, such a building must be constantly heated, which also leads to big expenses. What is cheaper - insulate the house in advance or, saving on materials, turn on the heating?

The summing up of the gas pipeline and the fee for connecting to it costs from fifty to several hundred thousand rubles. In houses built with brick or concrete walls, you can limit yourself to electric heaters, which are turned on only in especially cold weather. From the point of view of permanent residence in the northern latitudes of the country, it is more profitable to immediately make fundamental insulation. Then it will be possible to reduce or eliminate gas costs altogether.

For a house that is used only seasonally as a dacha, it is better to choose the first option: light insulation and gas heating. At the same time, gas should be supplied only if the owners periodically come to the building in winter: for holidays, vacations, etc. If the building is used only in summer, you can refuse to connect the gas and stop at a thin insulation. This is the most economical option.

Build a house from scratch with your own hands: what is required, cost, recommendations. Most of us really want to have a private home. This will be the very place where you want to return again and again after a hard day and spend evenings with your family. If you have decided on how to build your house, you have two options. The first is to take the project of the house and fit it to the place where the construction will be. The second is to develop a project with your own hands (or with the help of specialists). Most likely, you are interested in how to build a house from scratch with your own hands so that it ultimately meets the expectations and requirements? To answer this question, you should consider in detail all the stages of construction, which will allow you to distribute the stages of construction.

So, you still decided to build a country house or a cottage? Fabulous! But first, let's look at a few particularly important issues that are related to future construction.

Construction stages

If you want to build a house from scratch, and make it really durable, reliable and beautiful, then follow the sequence of construction work. Let's look at each of the stages in turn.

Creation of project documentation

This item is the most important, as it is the basis of construction. In this case, every little thing should be taken into account. You should decide what area your housing should be. This will make it possible to calculate the approximate amount of building material that will be required and the cost. You should also pay attention to such an issue as the thickness of the walls. The fact is that the external area of the house will always be larger than the internal one, and for this reason it should be oriented to obtain a high-quality result.

Consider how communications will be placed. These include water drainage and even laying an electrical network. Do not underestimate such a moment as load-bearing elements and home decoration. With the help of design, you can successfully locate the house on the land you have purchased.

Note, that before you start laying the house, you should perform a geological study of the area. This is far from a whim, but a necessity, since it is thanks to it that it will be possible to determine the type of soil on which the cottage will be built and the location of groundwater. Do not save on this procedure, since the durability and strength of the building as a whole will depend on the foundation chosen according to the test results.

Foundation pouring

It is also important to clear the entire construction area of debris. After the cleaning work, you can start digging a trench. It should be noted that its depth should be more than 1 meter, and the width should be approximately 0.35 meters. You should also take into account such an indicator as the height difference. After that, install the formwork, and then the reinforcing metal elements. Only then can the concrete be poured. By the way, you can prepare the concrete mix yourself, or you can buy it ready-made at any hardware store.

The main thing when building the foundation of a house from scratch with your own hands is to remember that it is the concrete base that determines the endurance and durability of the house. This will be your starting point, which can have a big impact on future construction.

There are several types of foundation:

So, if you want to build a house with a basement, but in your area there is a big propensity for basement flooding, feel free to choose a slab foundation. With his help, you can easily build a basement. A strip foundation has both advantages and disadvantages, but construction experts admit that a strip foundation is several times better than a slab foundation. It can be safely laid on soil with a high occurrence of water.

The columnar foundation is ideal when it is planned to build a wooden house. If you want a brick house, it is better to choose a different type of foundation. Building a columnar foundation is a little more difficult than the two previous options. But keep in mind that if you do not follow all the features of laying the foundation, the grillage can crack.

Choosing walls and roofing

This stage of building a house can be started immediately after the foundation has dried. The manufacture of walls and roofs should be considered as a whole. For the manufacture of walls, sometimes even wood is used. Remember that in this case it is very important that the walls are even. For this reason, there is little theoretical knowledge, skill is required.

To make a high-quality roofing, use bitumen sheets,. Choose the option that is provided for the project. It is best if at this stage of construction you will work in tandem with someone. This will help you get the job done in a short amount of time.

Features of buying windows

If you want to build a house from scratch with your own hands, the choice of windows, only at first glance, may seem like the simplest process at the entire stage of construction. Most users prefer plastic windows. They are practical, comfortable, and also have high thermal and sound insulation properties. When buying windows, first of all, pay attention to reliability, as they should not allow drafts during the cold season. Modern double-glazed windows are available in various designs, so they are suitable for any interior.

Selection of door structures

For this reason, before building a house with your own hands, pay attention to:

Technically correct.
Quality.
High quality finishing materials for building walls.
Compliance with the rules of laying blood.

Before starting building a house, you should determine as clearly as possible what the cost of building a house from scratch in your case is, what work you can do on your own, and for which you will have to resort to the help of professionals.

Features of home insulation

In order for the inside of the house to always be cozy and warm, you should consider its insulation. To do this, you can use different materials for thermal insulation - glass wool, wood, perlite and cellulose.

Such insulators can be divided into several conditional groups:

Materials of synthetic origin. This includes polyurethane, as well as polystyrene. These materials help to achieve a high level of thermal protection, the problem is that they are toxic. For this reason, if you are a green building enthusiast, look for safer materials.
mineral materials. Such insulators are of plant and animal origin. These include wool, hemp, glass wool and linen. They too can provide a high level of protection from the cold and are non-toxic.
Renewable materials. This category includes cellulose and cork. In the construction of cottages they are used less often.

Each of the components can be used to insulate the site and the house. So, polyurethane is often used to insulate window and door openings, since it does not contain toxic additives. Glass wool is the most popular material for home insulation and is the most commonly used material in today's building market. But she has certain disadvantages. The insulating qualities of the material are significantly reduced if it gets wet.

At the same time, sheep wool is resistant not only to moisture, but even to insect pests. It also has high temperature resistance. If you want to use materials of natural origin, and no others, the material is perfect.

Design

And finally, design. He plays a very important role. It is very important that your presentation coincides with the practical component. But, most likely, you have already thought out the appearance of the house in advance. For this reason, you already have a representation of the house, and it remains only to finalize this picture. At the design stage, you can use the services of professional architects. If you do not have the skills to work with drawings, then it is advisable to entrust this matter to a true professional. It will help to accurately draw the future home and make the project taking into account all the wishes.

At the same time, not only the exterior will be worked out, but also the filling of the house from the inside. This is the number of rooms, and the number of floors, and location. Think in advance where you want to put the stove, TV, lamps, since the installation of the electrical network and the distribution of sockets will depend on this. If at the very beginning you decided to adhere to a certain style, the whole house should be maintained in it. Color plays an important role as well. With the help of light pastel shades, it is possible to visually increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, as well as give it an elegant look. Taking into account all the recommendations, you will be able to build a house from scratch with your own hands, and it will meet your expectations!

Prefabricated houses are attractive because with a ready foundation, you can put the house itself very quickly. For example, building a frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly takes place step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to properly assemble each node. Having instructions, understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.

Frame construction is no less attractive in that you can get by with minimal costs. How much money is needed for construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and grade of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more moment. Many are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is that it is possible, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. Wintering options are also possible in the following form:

foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
foundation + frame + roof + OSB outer skin + wind protection;
foundation + frame + roof + OSB outer skin + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

With windows and doors, it is dangerous to leave unattended for the winter. In other options, the delay in completion of construction is even good: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already mounted part.

After pouring the piles, a (grillage) is installed, reinforcement is laid and knitted into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement protrusions from piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert pieces of plastic pipes across the tape).

A strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation tape. For its installation, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. 30 cm recede from each corner in both directions. Here the studs are required, the rest, depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Keep in mind that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. Therefore, it is better to put more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there should be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gain strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (see photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within + 20 ° C, after about 3-5 days, construction can continue. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with him freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at + 17 ° C, you need to wait for about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom rail and floor

In order for the wood of the frame not to draw moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The most reliable way to do this is with bituminous mastic. And better - in two layers. You can also use rolled waterproofing. Cheaper roofing material, but it breaks down over time. More reliable hydroisol or other similar modern material.

You can smear the grillage once with mastic, and roll out the waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. Until it dries, you can glue a layer of roll on it.

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the junction of the first row. It turns out a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, one beam of 100-150 cm can be laid, but its price is much higher than two boards, which in total give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a large bearing capacity, though it takes more time to lay them. In order for them to work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We put the harness and lags

The next stage is the installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, placed on edge. They are fastened with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the strapping board, two nails to the right and left to the bed. So each lag on both sides.

The photo shows that the first lag is installed close to the second - this way the load on the foundation is better transferred. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the span length and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long, and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, so that the logs do not “leave”, jumpers are stuffed over the cross beam. They are equal in length to the lag installation step minus twice the board thickness: if the lag step is 55 cm, the board thickness is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring is mounted, it's time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show an economical option - with foam polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more is possible, less is not). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (shift).

To begin with, a 50 * 50 mm cranial bar is stuffed along the lower edge of the lag. It will hold the foam.

Styrofoam is cut with an ordinary hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on wood - it is cut faster, but a torn edge is obtained, or on metal - it goes more slowly, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are stacked in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they are glued around the perimeter with a sealant - to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay a draft floor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). So that the rough flooring from the boards does not warp, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to either look up or down (see photo).

You can do without flooring from the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be stacked in a run - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between plywood sheets to compensate for dimensional changes with changes in humidity.

Plywood is attached to self-tapping screws 35 mm long (white is better - less marriage) around the perimeter in 12 cm increments, inside in a checkerboard pattern in 40 cm increments.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part - depending on the size) on the floor, then it is lifted, exposed and fixed. Sometimes, with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are attached directly to the floor from the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-shield or "platform". Factories mainly work according to this principle: they build ready-made shields according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only mount them there. But frame-panel housing construction is possible with your own hands.

The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The beam of the lower trim is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate ones, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology that is called "frame house building" or "balloon".

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract assistants. Working on the floor is faster and more comfortable than jumping up/down the ladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult to lift it even with two people. The way out is either to call assistants, or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and section of racks

Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner ones, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, gaps and crevices through which heat will escape - too. The density of installation of insulation in the frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Racks can be fastened in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the lower trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: long dowels are cut out, a hole is drilled obliquely through the rack and the beam of the lower trim, a wooden spike is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood is used dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore, the support should be more powerful.

Reinforced racks near windows and doors are a must. Only in this way a frame house built by one's own hands will be reliable

Bevels or braces

If the outer skin is planned from high-strength board material - OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood - temporary cuts are placed from the inside of the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required structural rigidity.

If the lining is planned to be type-setting - from lining, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Pay attention, in the photo above, the racks are prefabricated: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have an even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones, and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But the time for construction increases: a lot of nails have to be hammered.

Frame house corners

Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a beam in a corner, then there seems to be no difficulties, except for the fact that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winters, this is not a problem, but already in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.

After assembling the frame, most often it is sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Overlay

The floor beams are supported by the upper trim beam. There are several mounting methods:

on supporting steel brackets;
to the corners;
with inset;

Notching - the depth of cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. From above it is clogged with two nails, which must enter the harness by at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily Perforated staples - the shape may be different

The dimensions of the beams, the step of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the section is taken more, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and the attic are supposed to be non-residential from above, these are completely different calculations and sizes.

If the second floor is being completed, the ceiling is sheathed with a draft floor of the second floor. So it will be easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only because all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only restriction concerns the weight of the roofing: it must be a lightweight material, the load from which the wooden beams and ceilings can withstand.

Temporary braces were used to fix the rafters in a predetermined position before the crate was stuffed.

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Warming

You can insulate a frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the bursting force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the racks of the frame. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is closed with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

From the side of the street, thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-proof vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown through, from the side of the street it does not let moisture in the liquid and gaseous state, and vapors can escape from the insulation: the vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, everything, construction is over.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detailing of some processes is far from complete, but you have the general assembly sequence. Perhaps more videos from a professional carpenter who has been building frame houses for decades will help you (see below).

Video instructions for the installation of frame houses

These are three videos of the excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each one is over an hour long. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to this instruction, self-construction is possible without question: all the stages of building a frame house and the little things are commented and explained, up to which nails, what length, how many pieces with what step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for their correction. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clear to you.

The first part is the bottom harness and the floor.

The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is the construction of the roof of the frame house.

If you still doubt whether it is worth building a frame house, it is probably because you heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are placed from a dry forest, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood of almost natural humidity is brought from the sawmill, and this is up to 60%. Because the house leads and twists, they become cold.

But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? It is expensive for chamber drying, the difference per cube is very decent - almost twice. But by folding the wood on the site in ventilated stacks, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% in a year. Whether or not to impregnate with bioprotection before drying, you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but it is desirable to impregnate it with bioprotection from insects.

An example of such an opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...