Installing gutters with your own hands: rules for fastening, assembling and installing a PVC system. How to fix a drain: step-by-step installation instructions Installation of a drainage system instructions

System Information

Calculation procedure for Döcke gutters
*Calculation should be done for each eaves overhang separately

Gutters
N gutters = L ÷ 3.0 m
Corner element
N corners = Number of gutter corner connections
Brackets and extensions
A) mounting on plastic brackets: N plastic. bracket = L ÷ 0.6 m + N cornice. overhangs
B) mounting on metal brackets or using extensions: N brackets (N extensions) = L ÷ 0.6 m + 2N funnels +N extensions
When using extension cords, you must additionally purchase plastic brackets in quantities according to option A
Stubs
N caps = (N eaves overhangs - N corners)x2
Elbow 45° or 72°
N elbows = 2 x N funnels
Funnels*
N funnels = S slope ÷ 50 m2 (but not less than one per slope)
N connect. gutters = b ÷ 3.0 - 1
N tips = N funnels
Funnel protective mesh*
N grids = N funnels
Pipes*
N gutters = H walls ÷ 3.0 m x N funnels
Coupling*
N connect. couplings = (H walls ÷ 3.0 m - (N elbows ÷ 2) -1) x N funnels
Clamp*
N clamps = H wall ÷ 1.5 m + 1

b- Length of one eaves overhang, m

L- total length of cornices, m

S- Area, m2

H- Wall height, m

N- Quantity, pcs

The calculation is indicative and requires clarification depending on the architectural features of a particular building

General provisions

Option with a frontal plate, mounted on a plastic bracket
The brackets are placed at the level of the cord stretched between the end bracket and the funnel. The height difference between the end points of the cord should provide a slope of up to 3 mm per linear meter.

Option without frontal plate, mounted on a metal bracket
This option is used for roofs with a small sheathing pitch. The height difference is ensured by bending the bracket at the calculated location. The distance from the end of the supporting part of the bracket to the bending point should decrease as the intermediate bracket moves away from the final one.

Option without frontal plate, fastening with an extension and a plastic bracket
This option is used for roofs with large sheathing pitches. The fold lines of all extensions are at the same distance. The slope is ensured by moving the plastic bracket along the extension. The bend point should be no closer than 10 mm from the mounting point of the bracket clamping plate or no closer than 10 mm from the end of the slot in the extension.

2. Ensuring the optimal position of the elements relative to the roof

The roof overhang is located above the gutter at a distance of 1/3 to 1/2 of its diameter.

The required gap between the roof continuation line and the upper part of the bracket of 25 - 30 mm is ensured by bending the final metal bracket (extension) or moving the plastic bracket.

3. Ensuring stability from deformation under vertical load

The distance between the gutter brackets should not exceed 600 mm.

The funnel must be fixed at two points (or on two brackets/extensions)

The gutter connector must be secured to the water point (or to one bracket/extension).

The end of the corner element should be located no more than 150 mm from the nearest bracket.

The distance from the plug to the nearest bracket should not exceed 250 mm.

4. Ensuring compensation for linear temperature expansions

The gutter must be installed into the mating elements up to the line marked “Insert so far.” For ease of installation, point stops are formed along the edges of the line, until contact with which the gutter is inserted.

The distance from the end surface of the plug to the structural elements of the house must be at least 30 mm.

5. Ensuring the system is sealed

Before installation, you should clean the mating surfaces from dirt, make sure that there are rubber sealing gaskets and that they are tightly installed in the sockets. The spacers should extend to the ends of the sockets.

All plugs must be installed. The ends of the gutters should protrude beyond the side section of the roof by 50 -100 mm.

Mounting features

The plastic bracket, funnel and connector are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the front board.

To secure the gutter in a plastic bracket, you must first insert the edge of the gutter closest to the front board into the bracket clamp. Then, lowering the gutter into the bracket receiver and pressing firmly on the opposite edge of the gutter at the clamping point, insert the edge into the clamp until it clicks.

When attaching to a front board, it is necessary to strengthen the connection between the board and the roof to prevent it from being pulled out when loaded with snow.

The brackets are attached to the roof structural elements.

To secure a gutter, funnel or connector in metal brackets, you must first place the edge of the gutter closest to the roof under the hook of the bracket, lower the gutter into the receiving socket of the bracket and fix the opposite edge of the gutter by bending the clamping bar.

Metal extensions are used for long pitch sheathing and are attached to roof structural members.

On metal extensions, the gutter is fixed in plastic brackets.

When using an extension, the plastic bracket is secured with a bolted connection, which allows you to move the bracket when adjusting the slope of the gutter. A bolt (with a semicircular head) M5x30 is inserted through a washer into the upper central hole of the bracket, passes through the slot in the bracket and is tightened with a nut after the plastic bracket is positioned in the required position. A washer and a spring washer must be installed under the nut. The outer diameter of flat washers must be at least 15 mm. The spring washer is installed between the washer and the nut. To avoid vertical movements, the bracket is additionally fixed to the extension through the lower hole either with a bolt (M5x30 + 2 washers) with a hex head, or with a short self-tapping screw.

The funnel and the gutter connector are attached with a bolted connection (M5x30 + 2 washers) directly to the connector. The funnel is fastened with two bolts, and the connector with one.

The pipe and fittings are secured using a universal clamp. The installation location of the clamp is highlighted in red.

There are two possible fixation methods:

Pipe: fastening with slipping, on the side surface of the clamp there is the inscription “Pipe”.

Fitting: fastening with rigid fixation, on the side surface of the clamp there is the inscription “Fitting”.

The base of the clamp is screwed with a self-tapping screw (diameter M6, length from 50 mm) to the wall of the house. The clamp arms are inserted into the base until it stops. The clamp is tightened with a bolt with a semicircular head (M5, length 40 mm) and a nut.

Installation sequence

Installation of a catch basin

Install end bracket 1 taking into account clause 2 of the “General Provisions”.

Install funnel brackets 2 . For the option with a frontal board, a funnel 2 attaches without brackets.

Hang the slope of the gutter from the end bracket to the funnel bracket. For the option with a frontal plate - from the cavity of the end bracket 1 to the bottom edge of the funnel cut 2 .

Install gutter connector brackets 3 . For the option with a frontal board - install the connector itself 3 .

Connector 3 or its bracket is installed taking into account clauses 1 and 3 of the “General Provisions”.

Distance between funnel centers 2 and connector 3 should not exceed 3080 mm.

Install intermediate brackets 4 taking into account clause 3 of the “General Provisions”.

Secure the funnel 2 and gutter connector 3 on fastening elements (bracket, connector). For the option with a frontal board, a funnel 2 and connector 3 mounted without brackets.

5 and connect them to a funnel 2 and connector 3 .

Cut the gutter to the required length 6 and place it on the connector and end bracket.

Repeat the operations for the adjacent side of the roof (bracket 7 , gutter 8 ).

Install in gutters ( 8 And 6 ) gutter corner element 9 .

Cut the gutter to the required length, 10 insert into the free hole of the funnel 2 and put on the plug 11 . If the length is more than 200 mm, an additional bracket must be installed 12 .

Put on the plug 13 to the open end of the catchment.

Insert the mesh into the funnel 14 .

Installation of a spillway

Push it onto the drain hole of the funnel until it stops. 2 coupling or elbow 15 , depending on the characteristics of the installation site. Secure the coupling or elbow 15 on the funnel 2 self-tapping screw.

Assemble the required configuration of the figured part of the spillway. (Knee 15 , Pipe section 16 , Knee 17 ).

When assembling the figured part of the spillway, you must adhere to the following requirements:
Fittings ( 15 And 17 ) in the figured part of the spillway are connected to each other only through an intermediate section of pipe 16 and secured to the pipe section with self-tapping screws.

Attach a universal fastening clamp to the wall of the building 19 , supporting bottom fitting 17 the figured part of the drain (the “Fitting” position). Secure the fitting in the clamp.

Put on the pipe 18 all the way to the micro protrusions (Insert so far mark) of the bottom fitting 17 figured part of the spillway.

Place the pipe vertically. Insert the lower end of the pipe into the coupling 22 . Mark the mounting locations of the clamps in the middle of the pipe 20 and opposite the place where the clamp is attached to the coupling 23.

Secure the clamps to the building: clamp 20 in the “Pipe” position, clamp 23 in the “Fitting” position. Secure the pipe and coupling in the clamps.

Cut off the end piece of pipe 21 required length. Push it all the way onto the micro protrusions (mark “Insert so far”) of the coupling 22 .

Insert the lower end of the pipe into the nozzle, set it vertically and mark the location of the clamp installation 25 opposite the place where the clamp is attached to the tip 24 . If the length of the pipe section exceeds 1500 mm, it is necessary to additionally secure it in the middle with a universal clamp (in the “Pipe” position).

Secure the clamp 25 on the building in the “Fitting” position. Secure the pipe with the coupling with a clamp. It is possible to attach the tip to the pipe with a self-tapping screw. In this case, the distance from the tip to the nearest clamp should not exceed 50 cm, and the clamp itself is set to the “Fitting” position.

Self-tapping pin M6- 1 piece

Nut M6- 2 pieces

Washers Ø15- 2 pieces

During installation, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 to 12 mm on a flat section of siding.

Screw in the stud 1 through the center of the hole into the wall of the house (to a depth of at least 40 mm.) If the wall is not wooden, it is necessary to install a dowel. The screw part should protrude 20 mm above the siding.

Screw the nut onto the screw part of the stud 2 flush with the siding surface. Put on the washer 3 with a diameter of 15 mm.

Place the clamp support on the pin 4 . Screw the nut from inside the clamp support until it stops. 5 with washer 6 with a diameter of 15 mm.

Place the clamp in the desired position (“Pipe”\”Fitting”). Tighten the nut 2 under the clamp support until it stops with a wrench.

For marking: tape measure, pencil.

To install the brackets: cord, hose level, spirit level.

To attach the brackets: screwdriver, drill, screwdriver.

To bend metal brackets: bending machine.

For cuts: hacksaw, saw with a wide blade, miter box.

Purpose of elements

Gutter connector with rubber seal

Protective mesh (Clear Tube)

Plug (universal)

Corner element 90° (universal)

Plastic gutter bracket

Features of operation

Döke gutters do not require special care; only periodic inspection and cleaning is sufficient.

It is advisable to clean the gutter, mesh and pipes themselves (for example: with water from a hose).

When cleaning the gutter, do not rest the ladder on the edge of the gutter.

A high-quality and reliably assembled roof drainage system is the key to the longevity of the entire building. After all, neither the walls of the building nor its foundation will suffer from storm drains. At the same time, craftsmen often prefer to install the system themselves. Therefore, in the material below we will look in detail at how to install a drain yourself with preliminary calculations.

The installation of a drainage system must necessarily begin with calculating the number of components, and most importantly, with calculating the diameter of pipes and gutters. An incorrectly determined diameter of the system will either not be able to drain the volume of water that will flow from a certain roof, or it will cope with the task with interest, but will cost the technician unreasonably dear.

So, as for the diameters of drainage pipes and gutters, the following calculation principles are used:

For roofs with a total slope area of up to 50 m2, pipes with a cross-section of 75 mm and gutters with a cross-section of 100 mm are used;
For roofs with an area of 50 m2 to 100 m2, pipes with a diameter of 87 mm and gutters with a cross-section of 125 mm are used;
For a roof whose area exceeds 100 m2, it is important to use pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and gutters with a diameter of 150 mm.

Important: if the roof is multi-gable or hip, then the cross-section of the gutter and pipes is selected according to the area of the larger part (wing) of the roof.

Determining the number of vertical pipes

Everything here is extremely simple. Thus, the installation of gutters on the roof requires that there be one drainpipe for every 100 m2 of roof area. Therefore, if our proposed roof has an area of 120 m2, then it will require two drainpipes, which will be located at two corners of the house. As for receiving funnels, they are purchased in the quantity in which the number of vertical drains is determined. In our case there will be 2 water intake funnels.

Now, in order to install gutters on the roof, you need to calculate the number of vertical links (pipes) that will be required to install two vertical receiving lines from the roof to the foundation. In this case, you need to determine the height of the house from the blind area to the eaves strip and subtract 30 cm from it (the length of the drain elbow). For example, the height of the house from one point to another will be equal to 8 m. We subtract 30 cm from it and get 7.7 m. Moreover, the length of one link is most often 3 m, then we will need 3 pipes for one vertical drain. That is, for our two proposed drains we need to purchase 6 pipes.

Here we also determine the number of clamps for the vertical lines. They are located at the following points:

Between the pipe and the drain elbow;
Between the joints of vertical pipes;
Between the ebb and the pipe.

In total we get 5 clamps for one vertical line. For two - 10 clamps.

Determining the number of gutters

To calculate the number of gutters for a proposed gable roof, you need to determine the lengths of both eaves. In our case, they will be equal to 9 m each. And if we assume that each gutter is 3 m long, then in our case we will need 3 gutters per slope. Accordingly, 6 gutters for two roof slopes.

Important: if the roof is hip and has 4 slopes, the number of gutters is calculated based on the lengths of all four eaves. In this case, corner cornices are purchased in the number of corners on the roof. For a hip one, this number will be 4.

As for the number of brackets, it is recommended to place them at an equal distance from each other. In this case, the distance should be approximately 70-90 cm, but no more. In our case, with a cornice length of 9 m, we use 10 brackets per cornice. Accordingly, 20 brackets for two cornices.

Tip: the heavier the material of the drainage system, the smaller the distance between the hooks can be. Here you can reduce it to 50-60 cm. Accordingly, their number for a cornice length of 9 m will increase to 20 pieces.

Locks are selected in the quantity corresponding to the number of connections between gutters. In our case, this is the number 4 (2 on each side of the roof).

Determining the number of knees

Correct installation of a drainage system with your own hands will not be complete if the master does not determine the number of elbows for the system. Knees are purchased in 2 pieces. for one funnel. This means that in our case, a total of 4 elbows will be required. In this case, 2 low tides will be required to arrange the drainage of water into the ground or storm drain.

A larger number of bends are purchased if the façade of the house has a complex configuration and it is necessary to form a bypass around it. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the number of bends along the facade along the length of the vertical drain.

Important: the drainage system must be installed at the stage of arranging the sheathing for the roof covering. In this case, it is desirable that the system be plotted on the design drawing.

Installation work on the drainage system

If the reader is interested in how to make roof drains with your own hands, and how to do all the work correctly, then below are detailed instructions for installing a water drainage system:

Installation of drainage systems begins exclusively with the installation of brackets under the gutters. At the stage of installation of hooks, it is necessary to form the slope angle of the gutters. The slope should be 2-3 mm for each linear meter of drainage. When bending hooks, it is necessary to number them in order to bend and fix them correctly in the future. Attach the holders to the cornice strip. The first and last brackets are attached so that they are 10-15 cm away from the edge of the roofing edge.

Important: the hooks must be positioned so that the roof slope takes up approximately a third of the gutter.

Now install the funnel. If there is a need to make a cutout in the gutter for it, then mark the place in the gutter with a construction pencil. Then a groove is cut out with a hacksaw. All metal burrs must be sanded, and the cut area must be painted over with special polymer paint. Now the funnel is attached to the outer bend of the gutter and secured from the inside using clamp terminals. A plug is installed on the edge of the drain gutter. If the funnel is installed correctly, then all the water will go into it without a hitch.

Important: cutting metal elements of the drain with an angle grinder is prohibited. When exposed to high heat, the polymer coating of the system is damaged. And this can lead to corrosion of the entire communication. Therefore, you only need to use a hacksaw for cutting when attaching the drain to the roof.

The entire funnel structure, together with the gutters, is driven into the brackets by lightly pressing on them. The gutters must fit into the roundness of the bracket bend. The drainage gutter is secured to each other using special locks. In this case, a gap of about 2-3 mm is left between the drainage elements in order to lay a rubber gasket lubricated with sealant. The locks are snapped into place and the remaining sealant is removed. Through the installed drainage system, water will be sent at an angle to the receiving funnel and further down the pipe.

Important: all auxiliary elements (corners, caps, funnels) are installed before installing the main line of gutters.

And finally, in the instructions entitled “how to install gutters on the roof” we move on to the installation of vertical pipes. To fix them, clamps are used, which are attached to the walls of the house with dowels.

Important: the distance between the system clamps should not be more than 2 meters. In this case, the pipe itself should retreat from the walls of the house by 40 cm. If cutting the pipe is planned, then it is done with a hacksaw. Cutting the pipe from the narrow end is prohibited.

The drain elbow is attached to the assembled vertical pipe using special rivets. The drainage elbow should rise above the ground by about 30 cm. This will be a properly assembled drainage system.

Important: installation of a drain for the roof of a house must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees. For titanium-zinc systems, the temperature should generally be +7-+10 degrees. Otherwise, the communication material may become brittle and brittle from the cold.

Video: how to install a roof drainage system

But it’s not enough to just install the roof drain correctly. It is advisable to clean the system of fallen leaves and silt at the end of each season. To prevent fallen leaves from entering the drain, you can use special protective grilles on the gutters.

Methods for connecting elements depending on the material

The rules for installing gutters and other drainage elements require the use of various methods of connecting elements depending on the type of material. So, the following methods are used:

For plastic, the drain is secured using cold welding, clamps/rivets, and rubber seals.
For metal - clamps or seals.
Copper system - soldering, riveting and clamping.

Risk of mistakes and their consequences

It is worth remembering that if errors are made during the calculations and installation of the drain, the system may undergo the following changes:

Deflection of gutters under the pressure of drains with an incorrect (increased) distance between the brackets and their subsequent breakage.
Water entering and splashing onto the walls and foundation of the house when the drain elbow is located too high from the ground.
Leaking and cracking of vertical pipes if you installed them incorrectly.

Important: installing a roof drainage system is not an easy task. Therefore, if you still doubt your abilities, then it is better to invite professionals to install the drainage system. They do all the work not only efficiently, but also quickly.

A properly constructed roof reliably protects the building from moisture penetration into the residential attic or cold attic. Flowing down its slopes, water can fall on the walls and foundation of the building. To prevent this, the roofing system must be supplemented with an effective drainage system. To ensure the normal operation of such a system, it must be correctly calculated and installed. You can do all this yourself, but first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology for performing the work and the recommendations of specialists.

How to properly install roof gutters

Before you begin installing a drainage system, you need to decide whether you will buy industrial drains or make them yourself. If you have certain skills, then you can make all the elements of the drainage system yourself. Galvanized steel is usually used for this. But they resort to this method quite rarely, since in addition to certain abilities and experience, it will require a significant investment of time and labor. It is much easier to buy ready-made products and install them yourself.

Based on the material used, drainage systems are divided into two types.

Plastic drainage system. Its elements can be connected using glue or rubber seals. Plastic does not corrode, is lightweight, the elements are easy to install, and they are available in a wide variety of colors. Its disadvantages are that the mechanical strength is not very high, damaged plastic elements cannot be repaired, and if the connection is made using rubber parts, they will need to be changed periodically.
Plastic drainage systems are widely used due to their resistance to corrosion, light weight and ease of installation.
Metal drainage system. For its manufacture, galvanized steel is usually used, which can be coated with a polymer; much less often, gutters are made of copper. The elements of such a system are highly durable, they can withstand heavy loads and have a low expansion coefficient. The disadvantages of such a system are its high cost, heavy weight and complexity of installation. If the protective polymer layer is damaged, rust begins to appear. In addition, metal products are available in a much smaller number of colors.
A metal gutter system weighs more than a plastic one, but it has a longer service life

It cannot be said that one or another drainage system is better; it all depends on the operating conditions and the region in which the building is located. The plastic system has a large number of different elements, so it is more convenient to use when creating a system of complex configuration. Metal gutters look beautiful and last a long time, but they are more difficult to install.

It is easier to install the drainage system before laying the roofing material. To perform this work correctly, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

Installation must be performed at a certain temperature depending on the material:
- plastic elements - more than 5 o C;
- metal products coated with plastisol or ceramic granules - more than 10 o C;
- metal treated with pural - 5 o C and above.
The gutter must be installed with a slope relative to the roof. It can be organized in one direction (for roof lengths less than 12 m) or in two directions. The standard slope should be 3–5 mm per 1 m of length towards the storm drain. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance between storm drains of no more than 24 m.
If the length of the building is less than 12 m, then the slope of the gutters can be made in one direction, otherwise it is necessary to install gutters with a slope from the center of the wall to each of its corners
The holders should be located at the same distance from each other. For a plastic drain, the fastenings are installed after a maximum of 50 cm, and for a metal drain - after 60 cm. The holders begin to be installed from the top point and gradually move to the bottom.
The gutter should be positioned so that the edge of the roof protrudes 35–50% of its width.
The edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the roof plane, otherwise it may be torn off when the snow slides
Gutter elements can only be cut using the method recommended by the manufacturer. Plastic elements are cut with a fine-toothed hacksaw, metal elements are cut with a hacksaw. An angle grinder cannot be used for products with a polymer coating, since during its operation intense heating occurs and the coating is destroyed.
Under no circumstances should you cut a polymer-coated gutter using a grinder.
Drain pipe holders must be installed at least every 2 m, and if the house is more than 10 m high, every 1.5 m.
It is necessary to connect the elements correctly and securely. Plastic parts are joined using glue, rubber seals and latches. Metal elements can be attached to each other with latches or rubber seals. The drain pipe should not reach 25–40 cm to the ground.
When connecting gutters between them, it is necessary to leave an expansion gap for thermal expansion of the material

Do-it-yourself gutter installation

When installing a drainage system yourself, you will need the following set of tools:

Typically, the installation of a gutter system is carried out during the construction of a building, before laying the roofing material. Let us consider the sequence of performing these works in more detail.

Fastening the brackets in compliance with the slope and pitch of their installation.
Installation of funnels. These elements are located in those places where drain risers are installed. Funnels are also used to connect plastic gutters. In the place of the gutter where the funnel will be attached to it, make a hole and clean the edges well. Glue is used to fix the funnels. To prevent debris from falling into the drain pipe, a protective mesh is installed on the funnel, which must be periodically cleaned of debris.
It is imperative to install a protective mesh on the funnel, otherwise the drain pipe will become clogged with debris.
Installation of gutters. These elements can be semicircular or rectangular. The brackets are selected depending on the shape of the gutters, after which they are simply put on the ready-made mounts. The edge of the drain that is not in use must be closed with a plug; its tightness is ensured by a rubber seal. It is recommended to install brackets on both sides of the connection to avoid sagging of the drainage system.
Depending on the type of gutter, the type of bracket is selected
Connection of drains. In order to connect two gutters together, special additional elements are used, which are placed on the ends of adjacent gutters. There should be a distance of about 3–5 mm between the gutters; it is necessary to ensure possible deformations of the elements. This is especially important for plastic parts, as they have a high expansion coefficient.
Installation of knees. Elbows, like gutters, can have a semicircular or rectangular shape and are selected in accordance with the shape of the installed drains. The elbow from below is put on the funnel; it will direct water into the drain pipe. It is necessary to select the required knee angle, although problems with this usually do not arise, since the choice of such elements is quite large.
If the length of the elbow is not enough, then an additional piece of pipe is installed between it and the drain pipe
Installation of risers. The elbow is connected to the riser pipe and fixed with clamps to brackets installed on the wall of the building. If one pipe is not enough, it is extended by adding one or more elements of the required length.
The maximum distance between riser fastenings cannot exceed 2 m
Installation of clamps. Typically, these elements are made in the form of two arcs that cover the pipe, after which they are fixed with bolts. To attach the clamp to a wooden wall, a pin is used, and to a brick wall, a dowel is used, for which a hole is first made.
Clamps consist of two arcs that cover the pipe and tighten it using clamps
Drain installation. This element is the final one; in appearance it looks like a knee. The drain is installed at the very bottom of the pipe; with its help, the incoming water will be drained away from the foundation of the building. It is recommended that there be no more than 40 cm from the edge of the drain to the blind area.

Video: installing gutters

Installation of ebb tides

Proper installation of window sills is of great importance to protect your home from moisture. These are metal or plastic strips that are mounted on the outside of the house on the bottom of the window opening.

The sills are made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating or plastic

Each window must have a sill, which is also popularly called an external window sill. In addition to the fact that these elements protect the walls from moisture, they also give the house a beautiful and finished look.

The ebb installation sequence consists of several steps.

Taking measurements and determining the required size of the ebb. Galvanized steel is used to make ebbs; it can also have a polymer coating or plastic. Such an element must have a bend corresponding to the shape of the window near which it is installed, as well as bends on the sides and bottom. The ebb should protrude 3–5 cm beyond the wall and be inclined towards the street to ensure free flow of water through the lower drip. In order for the water to drain well and quickly, the slope should be about 10 o.
The length of the ebb is standard, and its width is selected for each window sill separately
Clearing the installation site of debris.
Fixing the ebb using self-tapping screws to the lower window profile.
To securely fix the ebb, screws are installed in increments of 40–45 cm
Filling the space between the window sill and the ebb with mounting foam, which, after hardening, firmly fixes this element and also provides reliable noise and heat insulation. During hardening, the ebb must be pressed with a heavy object so that the expanding foam does not lift it during the hardening process.
The ebb tide should be tilted away from the window so that water drains away from it well.
Sealing the junction of the ebb and window frame using silicone sealant.

During installation of the ebb, you must ensure that its side bends go under the slopes so that water does not fall on the wall. It is recommended to install flashings before the external slopes are formed.

How to properly attach drainage system hooks

Before moving on to fixing the hooks, you need to make markings to ensure the angle of inclination of the drainage system. Thanks to the slope, water will flow towards the riser and be effectively removed from the roof.

Attaching long hooks

Installation of hooks under gutters is carried out before laying the roofing material. This is due to the fact that they are installed under the roof and after it is laid, long hooks cannot be secured.

The installation sequence for long hooks will be as follows.

If only short hooks are available, then there is nothing to worry about. Their installation is carried out in a similar way, but if in the first case the hooks were attached to the sheathing or rafters, here they are fixed to the end plane or to the eaves board.

Short hooks can be installed after laying the roofing material

Short hooks are usually installed after the roof has been installed. Universal holders can also be used, which can be attached as both short and long hooks if necessary.

Video: features of hook installation

Common mistakes

If you do not approach the design and installation of a drainage system carefully, you can make certain mistakes due to which it will not be able to fully perform its functions:

horizontal installation of gutters leads to the fact that the water remains in the gutter, and in winter it freezes there;
a large release of roofing material above the gutter and leads to the fact that during heavy rainfall water does not enter the drainage basin;
placing the drain pipe too close to the wall of the house causes the wall to constantly get wet;
an insufficient number of brackets leads to sagging of the gutter, which causes water to accumulate in this place;
poor-quality assembly violates the tightness of the structure, so water gets on the walls.

Installation of internal drains

The internal drainage system includes the following main elements:

water intake funnel;
riser;
outlet pipe;
release.

In order for this system to work at any time of the year, water intake funnels cannot be installed near the outer walls of the house, otherwise they will freeze in winter.

Installation of the internal drain is carried out in a certain sequence.

Installation of funnels. If the floor slabs are already installed, then funnels can be installed. If there is no ceiling yet, then you need to start with the installation of risers. The funnel is connected to the riser using a compensation socket so that external deformations do not cause the connection to break.
The internal drainage system is usually installed on flat roofs, where there is no natural drainage of water due to the slope of the slopes
Installation of risers and pipes to drain water from funnels. Pipes connecting funnels and risers must be laid with a slope. The diameter of the riser must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the funnel. If the diameter of the pipes is no more than 110 mm, then they come in coils and are launched from top to bottom. For larger sizes, pipes are installed from bottom to top. Risers are attached every 2–3 meters.
Internal drainage risers should be fixed every 3 m maximum
Laying horizontal pipelines. Their installation is carried out in the same way as sewer pipes, but the slope is about 2–8 mm per meter. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, cleaning is installed every 10 m, and if their diameter is 100–150 mm, then after 15 m.
Horizontal pipes for internal drainage are installed in the same way as sewer pipes, but with a smaller slope

Internal drainage systems can be of the following types:

gravity - water is collected and discharged through gutters located on a slope. Such a system is only partially filled with water;
siphon - completely filled with water, which enters the funnel and then into the riser. Due to the resulting vacuum, water is forced to be removed, so this method is more effective.

Video: how to install a water inlet funnel

An external roof water drainage system can be:

unorganized. In this case, the water drains randomly; this method is usually used for small outbuildings;
organized. The water is collected in gutters and then transported outside the building through drain pipes.

When creating an external drain, gutters are secured using special brackets, which you can make yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones.

When creating an external drain, the gutters should be mounted at a slope, this will ensure effective removal of water coming from the roof. It is not difficult to create an external drainage system with your own hands. Now all the necessary elements are on sale. It is enough to draw up a diagram and calculate how many and what elements are needed, after which you can simply and quickly install them.

It is quite possible to install an external drainage system with your own hands, because all the necessary components are available for sale to facilitate this process

Installation of an external drainage system is carried out in the following order.

Calculation of the required amount of materials. You need to decide on the number of holders, gutters, drain pipes and elbows.
Marking places for attaching hooks. After the attachment points are marked, the hooks are bent to the required angle and fixed.
Preparing places for funnels. Holes for funnels are prepared in the gutters, after which they are fixed.
During installation, all connections must be made airtight so that water from pipes and gutters does not fall on the walls of the house
Laying gutters. The gutters with installed funnels are placed in holders and fixed.
Installation of drain pipes. They are mounted on the wall using special brackets.
Connection of drain pipes and funnels. Using elbows with the required angle of inclination, a connection is made between the drain pipe and the funnel.
For the funnel, a hole is made in the gutter, the edges of which are well cleaned to create a tight connection

A properly executed external drainage system reliably protects the roof, walls and foundation of a building from water penetration. During the cold season, frequent thaws may cause the drain pipes to freeze, so water will not be removed effectively. To avoid this problem, you can install heating for these elements. For this purpose, a self-regulating or resistive cable is used, which is attached to gutters and pipes. The electric current passing through the cable causes it to heat up, as a result of which the elements of the drainage system remain warm, so the water in them does not freeze.

Video: heating gutters and drain pipes

The main requirements for a drainage system are the removal of water from the roof of the house, as well as high strength, tightness and a long service life. It is necessary to expect that such a system can withstand heavy loads; in winter, a large amount of ice can accumulate on it. In order for a self-installed system to meet all requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate it, and then carry out installation in compliance with the developed technologies.

Imagine the roof of your house or cottage without a drainage system. This means that after the winter snow melts and during every rain, the perimeter of the house will look like a waterfall. There is also a threat to the proper condition of the walls and foundation of the house.
So a system for draining rainwater from the roof is a must. And the way the gutter is fastened will determine the reliability of the entire system.

A good drainage system will last a long time and will not cause any trouble during operation. Of course, if you install plastic structures, you won’t have to rely on them for as long as on a system made of metal with a polymer coating. Here the main question becomes the question of financial capabilities at the moment.

In any case, only high-quality installation will allow the drain to work for the entire time for which it is designed. Therefore, homeowners often turn to professional companies to install the system. However, you can do all the work yourself.

If you have no idea about fixing gutters and other elements of the roof water drainage system, first carefully study the entire process of installing them.

When to start?

Ideally, the fastening of gutters will be carried out in a house under construction at the stage of roof construction, before its covering is completed. This provides ease of installation and simplifies some work. But, if you are dealing with a fully built house, this does not mean that installing a drainage system is impossible. You just have to find suitable options.

Please note: it is with the installation of fastenings and gutter installation that work begins on the overall installation of a system for collecting and draining rainwater from the roof.

Fastener selection

There are no special subtleties here. The brackets must match the diameter of the gutters you choose. Make sure the metal is of proper quality.

Some drainage systems from well-known manufacturers (metal coated with polymers) are supplied complete with all the necessary fasteners.

Calculation of fastenings

How many brackets are needed to install gutters depends on the material of the drainage system. For metal structures, a step of 0.5-0.6 meters is sufficient. It is advisable to attach plastic gutters for water drainage more often - three brackets per meter. If the roof is complex, with turns, external and internal corners, this must be taken into account. After all, each side may require “its own” bracket.

Please note: the distance from the water intake funnel to the nearest fastenings must be at least 0.15 m.

Where to attach it?

There are several ways to install fasteners for laying gutters:

Attaching the drain to the front board. The choice of this method is most often dictated by two circumstances. Firstly, the installation of a water collection and drainage system is carried out with a completely finished roof. Second, you plan to install a plastic gutter system. However, it is not prohibited to fasten metal structures of the water drainage system in this way; it is advisable to use special short hooks.
The next method is to use rafter legs as a base. This is possible if the rafter pitch is no more than 0.6 m. This method is very reliable and is excellent for large roofs. But it can only be applied before laying the roof covering.
Long hooks or combination brackets can be attached to the roof sheathing, to its first strip. This method is optimal if the rafters are arranged in increments of more than 0.6 meters (if an ondulin or metal tile roof is planned).
The last method is designed for cases when the previous three are not available. For example: how to attach a drain when there is no front roof board, as well as access to the rafters and sheathing. Then you need to install special crutches (metal) into the wall and attach the gutter to them using studs.

There is a very important question: how thick should the front board be to attach the drain? Some people use the regular twenty. There are also those who, for reliability, buy a board 4 cm thick. However, skilled builders consider 25-30 mm thick to be optimal.

Attention: slope

No water drainage system will work if the installation of a roof drain does not provide for the correct slope of the gutter. It is done in the direction from the highest point of the drain to the water intake funnel.

There are practical limits here:

If the slope is insufficient, rain and melt water will stagnate in the gutters, and it may even overflow over the edges.
If you install gutters with an excessive slope, there may be too much water flow that the funnel cannot handle.
The optimal slope of the gutter per 1 meter of horizontal drainage should be maintained within the range of 0.2 - 0.7 mm.

How to maintain the slope of a drain

In order for the decrease in flow to be uniform, it is important to correctly arrange the first and last fastenings of the gutter.

The first gutter bracket is attached at the highest point of the drain. Depending on the final length of the gutter, you need to calculate the slope of the drain and calculate the lowest point. The last bracket is attached to it. Then, between them you need to stretch a thin rope or cord. Make all intermediate fastenings based on the resulting line.

What to do next

Once all the brackets are installed, you can begin laying the gutters. There is a specific point here: this is the connection of joints. First of all, it depends on the material and design of the drainage system. With any method you can find both disadvantages and advantages:

adhesive joints are strong, but create problems when dismantling and repairing the drain;
rubber seals will ensure tightness, but may become deformed due to sudden temperature changes;
The cold welding method requires that the drainage system be protected from serious mechanical stress.

Fastening each gutter is a responsible and serious matter. Knowledge about the installation process of the entire system is very useful and important. If desired and necessary, you can independently arrange water drainage from the roof or simply carefully monitor the work of invited specialists.

It is used in industrial, residential and public buildings for organized drainage of water from roofs.

A drainage system with a pipe diameter of 150 mm will allow rainwater to be drained from 117 square meters of slope. The number of pipes on building facades will be significantly reduced. Gutter holders are mounted at a distance of no further than 0.7 m, pipe holders - no further than 2 m from each other.

A drainage system with a pipe diameter of 100 mm will allow rainwater to be drained from 52 square meters of slope. Gutter holders are mounted at a distance of no further than 0.9 m from each other (calculated distance - 0.75 m), pipe holders - no further than 3 m from each other (for example, 3 holders are required for a pipe 5 m long, for a pipe 3 m long two are enough.

If there is a threat of freezing of the drainage system, it is recommended to use heating systems for gutters and pipes.

With a catchment area of less than 30 sq.m per drainpipe, gutters can be installed with a zero slope; with a larger catchment area, the slope of the gutters can be up to 5%.

1 - Gutter plug
2 - Gutter holder
3 - Gutter
4 - Gutter connection element
5 - Pipe
6 - Angular elbow
7 - Pipe
8 - Pipe holder
9 - Drain elbow

Step 1 - Installing Gutter Holders

Gutter installation begins with the installation of gutter holders. Divide the total length of the gutter into equal sections, as noted earlier (but not more than 900 mm).

step 2 - Marking for the gutter holders of the drainage system

According to the result obtained, mark the installation locations of the gutter holders on the bottom sheathing.

step 3 - bending the gutter holders

Number the holders from the top mark to the drain funnel. Having determined for yourself the desired slope (up to 5%), mark the bend location on each holder. In this case, the bending point of the holder should be 2.0 - 2.5 cm below the design position relative to the roof slope line.

Step 4 - Attaching the gutter holders

Aligning the bend with the edge of the sheathing, attach the gutter holders with 4.8x22 self-drilling galvanized flat head screws, 3 each. for fastening. When using 50x50 beams as sheathing, a double beam must be installed to securely fasten the holders.

Step 5 - Creating a Gutter Slope

To create a slope, bend the first and last holder and pull the cord between them. Bend the remaining holders so that they touch the cord.

step 6 - Installation of the pipe

In the gutter, at a distance of 150 mm from the bottom edge, cut a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole (Fig. 31). Place the front edge of the pipe under the outer bend of the gutter. Bend the flange of the pipe onto the rear edge of the gutter and secure with two 4.2x16 self-tapping screws.

Step 7 - Installing Gutter Covers

Install gutter plugs at the ends

Step 8 - Installing the Gutter

Insert the gutter into the holders, placing the rear edge of the gutter into the protrusion of the holder

Step 9 - Connecting the gutters

Install the gutter connecting element at the junction of the gutters.

step 10 - Installation of the corner elbow

Use a corner elbow to create a transition to the wall of the building. The length of the connecting pipe is determined locally.

step 11 - Pipe installation

The drain is secured to the wall using pipe holders. The pipe is measured, if necessary extended at the installation site of the pipe holder, and secured with a lock.

step 12 - Installation of the drain elbow

The drain elbow completes the drainpipe and serves to drain water from the foundation of the building; should be located at a distance of 300 mm from the blind area of the building.