What is the best material to make a dart board from? Manufacturing of stationary and mobile protection for targets. How to make a wooden shank

Where to hang a dartboard and how to do it? These are the questions asked by all happy owners of a dartboard and three darts. Let's try to answer these questions.

To install the target, a free space of 3 m in length is required in front of the target and 0.5 m on each side of the target. It is advisable to hang the target away from doors and places where people may appear unexpectedly. According to the rules, the target must be installed at a height of 1.73 m from the center of the target (Bullseye) to the floor and at a distance of 2.37 m from the throwing line to the projection of the front side of the target on the floor (you need to step back from the wall on which the target hangs a distance equal to the thickness targets). To check the correct installation of the target, you can measure the distance (diagonally) from the center of the target to the throwing line, which should be 2.934 m. The target should be installed so that the “20” sector is black and is located strictly at the top of the target.

You need to think about how you will protect the wall around the target, especially at first the darts will often fly past the target. Wooden target cabinets or foam protective rings serve this purpose.

How to hang a target and a target cabinet.

Preparing the target for hanging.

1. On the back side of the target, exactly in the center, screw a screw (included with the target)

2. At equal distances from each other and from the center of the target, nails with metal holders are driven in. Metal holders prevent the target from dangling and spinning. (also included with the target)

3. The target mount is screwed into the center of the cabinet with two screws. (comes with the target)

4. The cabinet is screwed to the wall with 4 screws, so that the center of the target is at a distance of 1m 73cm.

5. The target is lowered from above onto the mount. The head of the screw screwed into the center of the target is held by a mount screwed to the cabinet.

You can start playing Darts!

The mount that comes with the target can be used for both the wall and the cabinet. Almost always, cabinets come with duplicate fastenings. The target is easy to remove, install and rotate.

DARTS.RU WISHES YOU A GOOD GAME!

Subject has developed a passion for darts. This is amazing!! Subject purchased a target and darts for home. This is fine! And now how can the subject avoid tearing up all the great and especially valuable living space around the target? But this is something you need to think about... Here is a text about how to make the right defense for a target and not make offensive mistakes.

All photos are clickable. Click on it to go to Yandex.Photo and the photo itself is 10 megapixels in size.

At the dawn of his darts, even before his first target made of Chinese pressed cardboard, the author of the text already understood that just a target on the wall was categorically wrong. The wall must be somehow protected from local snipers. Just going to the store and buying it is not an option at all; we don’t live in England. It became clear that we had to somehow paint our own protection on the wall. And the author of the text was already beginning to think about the size of the protection that would fulfill its task, but a collapse occurred in the form of the purchase of the first target made of Chinese pressed cardboard.

It was not possible to struggle with common sense for more than 7 minutes, and the target was hung on a bare wall. Well, just take a quick look with the whole family: what kind of thing is this - some kind of darts there. After another 15 minutes, it became clear that the decision to “see what kind of darts this is” was just common sense, because no matter what size protection was planned for the wall, it still would not cope with its task.

It is completely unclear to the author of the text for what reasons standard protection on a target is made with a diameter of something in the region of 70 cm (with a target diameter of 45 cm). The size of 70 cm is completely illogical in any way. Those who have been throwing for a year already do not need protection on the target in principle. For those who have just bought a target, the protection meter per meter will be too small, however. And who the standard ~70 cm are aimed at is a mystery shrouded in darkness. A protection of 70 cm is a completely useless and extremely incomprehensible size of the principle of “average temperature in the hospital” - for some it is absurdly large, for others it is categorically insufficient.

So what is the correct amount of protection, the attentive reader will ask. In our family, we received the answer experimentally after the first 2-3 months of mockery of the wall where the target hung. The area of irreparable damage caused was measured and at the same time the size of the correct protection for the target was found - it turned out to be 100 by 105 cm. 100 in width and 105 in height. It was decided to make a protective shield of this size. Moreover, make it beautiful and indestructible, and cover all this terrible destruction with it.

The first shield was a case of trial and error. It was decided that the main area would be made of hardboard (fibreboard) 5 mm thick. Hardboard 5 mm thick is stitched with a dart one at a time. Therefore, the hardboard was screwed onto a frame made of wooden blocks so that there was a gap between the wall and the hardboard. It all turned out to be long and tedious, because... It was still unclear what method of attaching the target to the shield would be used - accordingly, it was not clear in which places on the hardboard on the back side the bars should be located so that the target fastener would be attached to them, and not to the air behind the hardboard. Ultimately, the frame made of bars was built so that it was suitable for two different types of steep and expensive overseas fasteners, and the target was eventually hung on the shield using the simplest standard fasteners that come with every normal target.

Hardboard on wooden blocks was wrapped in carpet. The carpet is screwed to the bars. The result is a beautiful, powerful stationary protection. I hung it on the wall and forgot about the nerves from missing the target, and the eye is happy. It cost about a grand for consumables, more than half of which was carpet.

It turned out beautiful, but loud. There is air between the hardboard and the wall. A sheet of hardboard measuring one meter by one meter with air between itself and the wall, and after a good hit with a dart it makes a good and booming sound. Even a good hardboard carpet can’t save you. They did not redo anything. That's how we live.

About a year later I had to make another shield. His task is different. This is not a stationary shield on the wall, but a mobile shield on a portable stand to provide a warm-up game line at our tournaments. The second shield was made taking into account the mistakes of the first shield and it cost not one piece, but one and a half. And all because of the same carpet - the most expensive component. It was necessary to put twice as much carpet on this shield for one simple reason. I hung a stationary shield on the wall and nothing is visible from behind it - which means there is no need for a carpet there at the back. But a mobile shield is a completely different shield - they can also look at it from behind. Moreover, a lot of people can do this. Therefore, it must be completely wrapped in carpet, and have a presentation everywhere, and therefore it is no longer a thing, but one and a half for consumables.
And of course, no hardboard on wooden blocks. The main supporting structure of the shield was plywood. I wanted to use plywood 4 mm thick, but the local store didn’t have such thin plywood and had to buy 6 mm. Either 4 or 6 mm will be pierced through with a dart if a beginner throws a dart shouting “this is Sparta!”, but this is not critical, because there is no wall behind it, but it just hangs on the counter and let it be stitched right through - it doesn’t make anyone feel hot or cold. But the weight for a mobile shield is critical. That’s why it was planned to use 4 mm plywood, not 6. For a stationary panel, I would highly recommend 1 cm thick plywood, and then do almost everything with it exactly the same way as I did with my 6 mm for a mobile panel.

First, we cut to a size of 100 by 105 cm - this takes into account the fact that a person who is at the dawn of his darts can throw at the target at tournaments. By the way, for a stationary option, I might not even saw it, but I would make it out of standard plywood measuring one and a half by one and a half meters - it’s more reliable, more monumental and larger-scale interior in the apartment, only the cost of the carpet will be even higher. Then, for sound absorption and dart-proofing, we glue the plywood on both sides over the entire area with polyethylene foam 5 mm thick. PVA glue is ideal. But actually, this is my shield with a 5 mm polyethylene foam layer. If I were making another such shield now, and especially a stationary shield and not a mobile one, I would cover it with polyethylene foam 8 mm thick rather than 5 mm. Such a layered cake will definitely not penetrate the dart and the sound from the blow will be better swallowed. Then I wrapped the whole thing in carpet and screwed the carpet to the plywood. All screws are screwed in from the back side of the shield along the perimeter of the shield and along the edges of the carpet with 15 mm screws, where 1 or 3 layers of carpet are screwed in, and with 20 mm screws, where 5 layers of carpet are screwed in - after bending the carpet in places where it is layered, exactly 5 layers come out on these bends and layers. On the front of the shield, the screw heads are completely absent. The carpet is cut extremely competently to fit the curves, as a result of which the shield looks perfect, both from the front and from the back. The photo shows the finished shield plus on either side of it a portable stand for the shield and a portable additional light.

In theory, it would be better to mount the light on the shield, but there is not enough money for it yet, and therefore the shield is not included with the light yet. We'll fix it over time. The shield in this form can be safely mounted on any wall as a stationary protection - with screws of the correct length around the perimeter of the shield + 1-2 attachment points in the center, so that they are located close to the edges of the shield and under the target during operation.

But we have a project for a mobile shield, so we are modifying the shield for a portable stand. It’s not very pleasant to do this, because... you need to drill through the shield in 5 places, and if you drill in the wrong place, then tears of disappointment can be even larger than unnecessary holes in the drilled carpet. Hmmm. First, we drill 3 holes for the bolts for the fasteners, which will be the connecting link between the shield and the rack. Just in case, there are hefty washers on both sides so that holes in the carpet don’t creep out from under them. You need to drill where the target will then cover it all up. Here's the front view.

On top of the central bolt is a homemade penny fastener for hanging a target on it. The fasteners for the target have become a consumable item for me, because... the target is carried around with itself here and there and everywhere it needs to be hung on something. It’s easier to leave the fastener in a new place once than to install it again when you return there. Therefore, fasteners for the target are a cheap consumable, which is made as follows. We go to the hardware store and buy a couple of these things there.

Then we take a dremel, a grinder, a metal file (depending on what is available), give it to our son and challenge him to saw the whole thing as it should, so that he doesn’t chew food in vain. Then we do the same with a drill/screwdriver and get holes on the side of each homemade fastener and a bunch of fasteners like this.

But we digress. Here's a rear view of our mobile shield. Not everything, but only the place where it will be hung on a portable stand. By the way, the weight of the shield came out close to 10 kg. Plus 5 kg target.

But attaching a shield measuring one meter by one meter to a post only in the center is not entirely correct. Or even completely wrong. You need at least 1 more attachment point to the stand on the perimeter of the shield. This point should be as far as possible from the target, i.e. it turns out that it should be from below and as low as possible. We will fasten it using a clamp and drill two holes under it in our carpet sheet and drive two more bolts on washers there.

Reverse side of two bolts. Above them you can see one of the screws that was used to fasten the carpet to the shield from the back side.

This is the clamp
And this is what the target looks like on the new shield - if the target was just out of the box, then it would not be a shame to put such a photo of such a shield on the cover of any glossy magazine.

By the way, all targets, except for the Winmau Blade 4 Dual Core target, which comes with 3 cool adjustable legs, are now attached to the protective shields using two corners like these with two screws.

Three birds with one stone are killed at once. Firstly, it is extremely easy, convenient and very fast. Secondly, the target will definitely not move after fixation. Thirdly, through hard corners the energy from a dart strike is transferred much better from the target to the shield than without them - and the target will last longer.

Well, in general, somehow this is how it turned out. I hope my experience will be useful and you will make fewer mistakes than I did.

" data-title=""">

Darts as a family holiday has a number of advantages compared to other types of active recreation:
- Darts don't require much time. 15-20 minutes is quite a comfortable time to spend after a family dinner, especially before checking your lessons.
- Darts does not depend on gender and age.
And Daughters and Mommies, and-and-and even Grandmothers, not to mention the Dedufskovs, play DARTS no worse than Papof and Synof.
World number one, Phil Taylor, turned 53 years old in the summer of 2013.
Number 1 in Belarus is over 60, ( ist)
- Home darts is precisely an active recreation – with a certain amount of movement, concentration and sports competitiveness.

However, since darts use darts with sharp needles, darts require some preparation of the home interior.
It is necessary to protect the interior and floors during inaccurate throws when the dart does not hit the target. And also - with insufficiently strong throws associated with an inaccurately estimated distance to the darts target - when the dart does not reach it a little or jumps out of the target, which leads to the dart falling to the floor.
In addition - for players of any skill level, and especially for professionals - with high training intensity and a large volume of throws - there are statistical effects of a dart slipping out of the target, a dart bouncing off a metal dividing wire, and also the effect of a dart slipping out of the target when a subsequent dart hits close. .
The number of such bounces is statistically quite significant and, as a result of such dart falls - even over a period of one or several months, in the absence of protection - significant damage is caused to the floors.
For example:
From East #37
“at your request, I provide a photo of my target
Of course, I can’t count the bounces,
but the condition of the floor and the protective board after 1.5 years of training by two girls)))
indicates that it’s time to make repairs and come up with something to protect the walls and floor
The boards hung Blade4"

From East #19585 #88

Actually, they begin to swell at the points where the darts fall on the floor during subsequent wet cleaning of the premises.

Protecting the interior and floors is actually not particularly difficult.
For example, to protect walls and wallpaper, various types of wall protection are used. From homemade circles made of extruded polystyrene foam (such as penoplex) 50mm, covered with fabric, to purchased sports protective rings collapsible And non-removable type or simple cabinets like DArtsCa b DB-1 1

For the simplest protection of floors, you can use linoleum mats, but since darts can fly off quite strongly, it is better to use semi-commercial linoleum with a protective layer of at least 0.4-0.6 mm, preferably the “professional” series. Sufficient thickness of the linoleum itself is from 2 mm. There is also commercial linoleum, with a protective layer of 0.7-0.8 mm - but according to certificates - it is NOT intended for installation in residential premises.
Since there are a great variety of designs and patterns of linoleum on sale, it is quite possible to choose linoleum that almost matches the color of the floor, or very close to it. Or even design the darts line as an element of home interior design.

Due to the fact that the protection of walls and floors carry much less load compared to targets - for home darts - they are done almost once and for life.
Well... if to the dacha.... And-I-Or there - Grandfather and Grandmother..... Or also to their dacha....

Basic bounce statistics for beginners on different types of targets.
To understand the importance of the issue of interior protection and the extent of its “responsibility”, we present statistical data on rebounds for beginning dartsmen on targets of different levels.
Since there are no official data of this kind, we present our own statistics on rebounds and data from our colleagues testing various types of targets.

Targets with round dividing wire.
Using the example of basic sisal targets from major manufacturers with ROUND dividing wire as the most widely used.
The statistics for a beginner darts player look like this:
In about 2 weeks - 10-13 days, 1371 dart throws were made at the target (the usual exercise for beginners is “Round”, performed with 6 darts - 20 sections of 6 dt = 120 dt in 15-20 minutes).

Total - on a round wire - the total number of “breakdowns” is 5.5-6% of the total volume of throws
That is, for 100 throws, you will DEFINITELY have about 6 hits on the walls or bounces on the floors. And for 1000 throws over 1-2 weeks, you can get about 60 interior hits, unless you have wall and floor protection.

The statistical spread of rebounds for a dart target with a round wire is up to 2.3 m in length, and up to 0.7 m along the axial in both directions. (total width 1.4 m)

Also known are some general data on the spread of rebounds (ist) provided by Ypppu.
– although without information for which targets and for what level of players. It is clear that specialists - when training bulls and J-troubles (doubles and triples) - receive a larger absolute value of rebounds with a lower relative percentage due to the large volume of training compared to beginners.

Where
1. dart drop area
2. regular bounces
3. ― ⁄ ⁄ ― rare
4. ― ⁄ ⁄ ― very rare

But all this does not matter - if you protect the walls and floors once.
And you are guaranteed with a 99.99% probability of getting a clean interior.

Professional dart targets with spacer plates
When using professional dart targets with separating plates (they are not very different in price from wire), for beginner dartsmen of various qualifications the statistics will look like this:
Nodor Supamatch2 target test
Throws – Total during testing – 318,987 throws
Bounce Ratio:
Tester's son -1 per 498.13 rolls =0,2% from the total volume of throws
Tester's wife – 1 per 898.5 throws = 0.111% of total throws
Tester – 1 per 1,017.41 rolls = 0.1% (one tenth of one percent) from the total volume of throws

Hospital average – 1 per 916.63 rolls = 0,1% from the total volume of throws
That is, for 10,000 throws, you will get a maximum of about 10 misses and falls,

Winmau Blade 4 target test, part 1. etc. before part 10,
"After from above 300,000 test throws completed about two months ago"
Rebound ratio (training affects)
Tester's son - 1 rebound per 885 shots = 0,11% from the total volume of throws
Tester's wife - 1 rebound per 883.5 throws = 0,11% from the total volume of throws
Tester – 1 bounce per 622.4 throws (bullet training has an effect – a lot of bounces. DCab)
= 0,16% from the total volume of throws
Hospital average – 1 rebound per 789.9 shots = 0,12% from the total volume of throws
Hospital average without bull – 1 rebound per 2,046 shots
= 0.048% (~five hundredths of a percent) from the total volume of throws
That is - for 10,000 throws - you will get a maximum of about 5 misses and falls

We are grateful for the data provided.
Unofficial Darts League of Siberia and personally

Darts is a sports game in which competitors alternately throw three darts at the target, trying to get the maximum number of points. Appeared more than 200 years ago.

This is one of the most accessible sports, where no criteria are presented for the player’s physical condition.

What are professional darts made of?

The game is played using darts and special round target, marked into sectors. The dart consists of several parts: fletching, shank, barrels (the main body of the dart) and tip. Barrels are made of brass, nickel-silver, and tungsten. Brass- the metal is cheaper, but less dense than tungsten or nickel. Brass darts will be noticeably thicker than tungsten, which is why professionals choose tungsten, since thin darts are more convenient to hold and throw.

Mid-level players tend to buy nickel-silver dart. They are stronger than brass. Brass ones are used by beginners.

Depending on the sharpness tip, darts are divided into “SOFTIP” and “STEELTIP”. First variety- darts with a blunt end, which are used for playing electronic darts. Second— with a pointed tip for throwing at standard sisal targets.

The fletching is necessary to stabilize the flight of the dart. Highlight three main types of plumage: hard, flexible and nylon. Solid(made of polyester) is the most durable. Flexible plumage (made of soft plastic) is the most economical option. Nylon the plumage, which is chosen by professional dartsmen, is the most durable and practical.

Classic dart targets made from compressed sisal(Agave plant fiber). The sisal mass is attached to chipboard circles. Professionals use a target made using seamless formation technology canvases. The absence of seams makes the target more durable.

Sectors targets demarcated by a mesh of rigid wire. The mesh can be lamellar, round, or triangular. Pros choose plate mesh. It does not deform from hits and does not come out of sisal.

Photo 1. Cutaway view of a professional sisal dart target with Harrows Pro Matchplay wire.

DIY paper and cardboard target

To create you will need:

Thick cardboard.
White paper.
Acrylic paints or markers.
Brush.
Pencil.
Ruler.
Compass.

The target consists of several circles. On a sheet of paper using a compass you need draw three circles:

Radius = 6.35 mm(“bull’s eye”)
Radius = 107 mm(treble ring).
Radius = 170 mm(double ring).

From each ring you need step back inward by 8 mm and draw circles. Everything is round the field is divided into 20 equal sectors. Under each segment there is a number indicating the number of points.

Now it is necessary colorize the target so that it is bright and clear. The colors you will need for this are: black, green, red, white. First, the wedges of the field are painted alternately black and white ( segment with 20 points - black, 1 - white etc.). The part of the ring rim above each black segment is painted red, and the part above the white segment is painted green. The center of the bull's eye is red, the ring around it is green.

Attention! On the Internet there are many options for both black and white targets and color ones, which can be printed in full size and, if necessary, color.

A sheet of paper is glued to a base made of thick cardboard. Once the product has dried, it can be hung on the wall. The target should be mounted on the wall in such a way that from the center of the target to the floor was exactly 173 cm. The line at which players throw darts is located at 237 centimeters from the target.

Making darts

Materials:

Toothpicks or small twig.
Needle or spicy pin.
Insulating tape.
Knife.
A thread.
Glue.
Paper.
Ruler.
Pen or pencil.

How to make a wooden shank?

To make a dart it is taken 4 toothpicks, tightly wrapped with electrical tape so as to form a square bundle. Instead of toothpicks, you can take thin tree branch(preferably elm). A fragment is cut from a branch about 8-10 cm long. Next, the bark is removed from the workpiece and electrical tape is wound on one edge of the wooden fragment, as well as in the middle. At the end where there is no electrical tape, two perpendicular cuts are made. The plumage will subsequently be attached to these grooves.

A small sharp pin is inserted into the tip of the product or a needle. The tip of the future dart is tightly wrapped with thread until the tip is firmly fixed in place. You can add a little glue for strength.

Attaching the paper tail

To make plumage, take paper. It depicts a small square (side is approximately 5 cm).

The dotted line inside the square indicates fold lines (only two lines, located either crosswise or perpendicular each other). The square is bent in such a way as to form a “star”.

If the body of the dart was made of toothpicks, then the plumage attached between toothpicks. Due to the fact that they are pressed tightly against each other, securing the plumage will not be difficult. If it is a twig, then the plumage is inserted into pre-made cuts - grooves.