Homemade metal lathe. How to make a homemade metal lathe. Do-it-yourself headstock of a lathe

Every home craftsman would like to have a metal lathe in his arsenal of tools. Such equipment allows, if necessary, to carve a broken part, cut a thread, make some kind of trinket, and much more. However, since not everyone can afford industrial units, and they take up a lot of space, most craftsmen prefer to make compact home-made metal machines with their own hands.

Read in the article

What can be done with a mini lathe, and where it is used

Household mini-turning machines, as well as similar industrial equipment, are designed to process metal blanks and give them a cylindrical, conical and spherical shape. Now they are used in almost all industries, which makes it possible to reduce human participation to almost zero, but a simple machine is suitable for home needs. Despite the fact that compact turning equipment has inherited most of the functions from its large counterparts, however, it can only be used to machine small workpieces and parts. Also on mini-machines, you can make end trimming and perform external and internal threading, boring and much more. Compact turning equipment is perfect for, home, installation on or in a small.

What does a lathe consist of: main components

For the most part, industrial and household lathes are similar. The difference lies in functionality, power and weight. The figure below shows the device of a typical screw-cutting lathe. The main nodes are:

• bed;
• caliper;
• headstock (placement of the gearbox to adjust the speed of rotation and change the amount of torque);
• tailstock (for more stable and reliable support of the workpiece or part clamped in the chuck (spindle), as well as for installing drills, taps and other tools);
• tool holder.

bed

One of the main elements is the frame - a massive metal base on which all the main components and parts of the equipment are mounted. It must be strong enough, and the mass must be such as not to allow the machine to tip over during operation. For the floor version, massive supports (pedestals) are added.

Lathe support

The lathe caliper is designed to move along, across and at an angle to the axis of the spindle of the cutters fixed in the tool holder. The device has a cross structure, consisting of three main elements: carriage, transverse and incisal sleds.

Do-it-yourself headstock of a lathe

The headstock is one of the more difficult components of a lathe, especially for self-manufacturing. It contains a gearbox with a spindle and a control unit. Under the casing of the headstock is an electric motor, which is connected by a belt drive to the gearbox pulley.

This unit contains a block consisting of interchangeable gears designed to transmit and change the spindle speed and torque from the feed box shaft. You can buy a lathe headstock or make your own.

Tailstock lathe

The tailstock of a metal lathe is movable and is designed to press the workpiece to the center of the spindle. One of the elements of this assembly is a quill, on which a fixed or rotating center is installed, resting with its tip against the workpiece. The workpiece is installed in the chuck on the spindle and supported by the tailstock. Thus, reliable fastening of the part for its high-quality processing is ensured.

Drills, taps, reamers, etc. can be installed in the tailstock. When installing and moving on the skids of the frame, it is necessary to avoid sharp and strong impacts on the body of the unit in order to prevent displacement of the centers.

Making a do-it-yourself tool holder for a lathe

The tool holder is intended for fixing a tool for metal processing on the support of a lathe and moves both in the longitudinal and in the parallel direction relative to the workpiece. There are two types of tool holders: two- and four-position. In the first case, you can simultaneously install two cutters with screws, and in the second - four, which allows you to quickly change the cutters if necessary without stopping the lathe. For quick change of incisors, a special handle is provided.

Making and installing a lathe for metal with your own hands

Making a mini lathe for metal with your own hands is not so difficult as it might seem at first glance. You just need to draw up a detailed action plan, a drawing, prepare the necessary materials and tools, and, of course, some skills and a great desire.

Design and drawings of a metal lathe for a garage

This stage is the most important, since the correct execution of all further operations and the correct operation of the equipment depend on it. First of all, you need to determine the dimensions of the machine. The average dimensions of equipment used in everyday life is 900×350×300 mm. You should not deviate much from these values, as this will lead to the fact that it will be inconvenient to work, and performance will decrease significantly.

Having decided on the drawing and dimensions of a small lathe, we proceed to the preparation of the necessary materials.

Illustration	Action Description
	The cast iron frame can be replaced by a frame made of steel angles and shaped pipes. Do not use wood, because in this case you should not rely on the durability of the machine and the accuracy of the work performed.
	As a power unit, it is preferable to take a low-power asynchronous electric motor, since even with a sharp decrease in speed, the drive will not break. Engine power must be selected in accordance with the expected diameters of the workpieces.
	Choose from different diameter drive belts.
	As fasteners we use a set of bolts and nuts of various diameters and lengths.
	Steel bar slides are made from steel bars, which are recommended to be hardened. You can also use ready-made elements from a suitable used factory-made machine (this also applies to other equipment components).
	The spindle and "tailstock" are considered the most difficult components for self-manufacturing, so you can contact a specialized workshop or the manufacturer. If it is decided, nevertheless, to make these details on your own, then the headstock can be made of metal of the appropriate thickness and. A simple spindle is made from a bolt with a sharp end, nuts and a handwheel.
	The feed longitudinal and transverse screws can be machined on a machine in a specialized workshop or made independently from rods with threads already cut.
	To create rotating assemblies, rolling bearings mounted on the housing are suitable.
	The caliper can be made from a steel plate with a thickness of 8 mm.
	The tool holder is made of a thick steel plate, ordered in a specialized workshop or taken from another machine.

After the drawing has been selected and all the necessary materials and components have been prepared, you can begin to assemble the unit.

Choosing an electric motor for a homemade lathe

The electric motor is the most important element of a metal lathe, whether industrial or homemade. It is he who is responsible for the operation of the equipment. The functionality of the lathe largely depends on the power of the electric motor. If the machine is intended to work with small workpieces, then an engine with a power of up to 1 kW will suffice (you can, for example, take from an old sewing machine or). For large parts, you will need a power unit with a power in the range of 1.5–2 kW.

The procedure for assembling a lathe for metal

In order for the lathe to work properly, it is important to assemble it correctly, and for this you just need to follow the following algorithm:

1. Frame formation. Since creating a cast-iron bed at home is almost impossible, you will have to use steel pipes that are cut to size and welded together. Be sure to make sure that all corners are even, and focus on the drawing.
2. Creation of side racks.
3. We connect the racks with guides, and we mount special bushings on the side supports.
4. Bushings are installed on the guides, on which the tailstock will be mounted, and they will also be used to securely fasten the tool holder.
5. Creation of platforms from a steel sheet of the required thickness for the installation of a caliper and quill.
6. Lead screw installation.
7. A nonius and a steering wheel are attached to the lead screw.
8. Fastening of the platform for the installation of the headstock.
9. Collection of the headstock and tailstock, after which they are installed on the machine.
10. Creation of a caliper and tool holder.
11. Assembling the subframe for the electric motor. To do this, use steel pipes or a corner. The subframe will allow you to raise and lower the electric motor.
12. Installation of the power unit with its subsequent connection to the mains.
13. Trial run of the lathe.
14. If everything is functioning normally, then you can paint the machine (if desired) and start working on it.

If desired, conventional turning equipment can be re-equipped with your own hands into a metal milling machine.

We make a lathe from a drill with our own hands

You can also make a lathe from an electric drill, but basically this design is suitable for woodworking. Of course, it can be used to work with metal, but the power unit used must be as powerful as possible, and the parts must be very small. For example, such a machine is suitable for a homegrown amateur jeweler. This design consists of a minimum of parts. So, let's move on to step-by-step instructions for making a lathe from a drill with a photo and description.

Illustration	Action Description
	On the

Many types of machine tools for metal, with or without CNC, are purchased from manufacturers of such equipment only in cases of mass and large-scale production due to their high cost. That is why for home use and small-scale production, many decide to create a machine with their own hands.

Application area

Over the years, the metalworking machine, with or without a CNC system, has been used to produce parts of various shapes. At the same time, a huge number of models were created: a metal lathe, a milling or drilling machine with or without a CNC system. In addition, each model is created for specific tasks.

A metal lathe is used to produce cylindrical parts. CNC allows you to automate the process to a large extent. Details are used both in domestic conditions and in industrial production. Industrial machine for metal, CNC or manual, expensive and large. That is why many decide to create a similar design with their own hands.

Design features

In order to create a lathe, you need to know what it consists of. It consists of the following parts:

1. frame;
2. rear and front headstock;
3. electric drive;
4. support with a holder for the cutter;
5. engine.

In addition, the design may include other elements, depending on the purpose of the metal lathe.

The possibility of creating a CNC version is not considered, but the usual version can be constructed as follows:

1. we create a drawing with a planned arrangement of all elements, create seats for them;
2. we pick up the electric motor and install it;
3. according to the calculations, we create a belt drive in the headstock;
4. we connect the drive and the driven center, we fix the cam chuck;
5. we fix the tool holder, under which a slide is created for feeding the cutter;
6. skids are also created to move the tailstock.

Precision machining equipment, such as CNC, is created using precision equipment.

We offer to build a lathe for metal with your own hands with smooth adjustment of the spindle speed.

To create such a small metal lathe, you will need spare parts from various faulty power tools.

The machine has a small size and a powerful engine.

The manufacture of the speed controller will be shown in step 5.

The video below shows the operation of a miniature metal lathe at various speeds. The coupling causes vibration, which becomes stronger, the higher the number of revolutions.

Step 9 has another video.

Step 1: Materials

You will need some specialized components for a homemade mini metal lathe.

The main ones are manufactured by Bosch Rexroth: a mechanical aluminum profile element, bolts, washers, end caps. The aluminum profile has a section of 45*90 mm and a length of 350 mm.

Support blocks can be purchased at VXB.COM. Part number WH12A.

608ZZ bearings are also available on the same site. For our project, it is desirable to use angular contact roller bearings, but ball bearings are also suitable.

Soft motor clutch with rubber cross from PrincessAuto.com. 12V DC motor from Black & Decker cordless trimmer. Variable speed switch from Milwaukee 18V Lithium Ion cordless drill.

The rest of the necessary materials for a home metal lathe will be indicated as they appear in the instructions.

Step 2: Making the supports

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The inner diameter of the support blocks is 20 mm. You need to drill them down to 22mm for the outside diameter of the bearings. This can be done with a hand drill or a drill press.

The bearings are flush mounted on one side of the blocks and secured with screws to the blocks.

As a quill on the back support, we use a conical drill bit with a diameter of 12 mm, which will rotate with the workpiece. The diameter of the clamping shank of the quill is 6 mm. In order for the quill to be tightly inserted into the inner ring of the bearing, the diameter of which is 8 mm, we use a copper adapter tube.

A flexible half-coupling with a pin with a diameter of 8 mm is installed in the support from the drive side. Cut the M8 thread in the hole of the coupling half, screw in the stud and fix with two hex nuts. You may need to adjust the length of the shaft by installing additional washers on the stud. Then insert the free end of the stud into the bearing and tighten it with a self-locking nut. Try to assemble the knots as neatly as possible.

Step 3: We assemble the machine

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Mount the assembled support blocks and motor corner supports on the profiled base.

Use a metal plate as a motor mount. Drill a hole in it for the motor shaft, as well as holes for mounting to the motor and to the corner supports. Because motor shaft is smaller than the hole in the second coupling half, wind a strip of aluminum foil around the shaft and push the coupling half onto it. Next, install a rubber cross between the coupling halves, fix the engine and the drive bearing support block on the base frame.

Fix the rear support block to the frame with bolts.

Install two additional corner supports between the support blocks. They will be used as a stop for the tool. You can close the ends of the profile base with special end caps.

Step 4: Making a 3-Jaw Chuck

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A 3-jaw chuck requires soldering or welding skills.

For the chuck base you will need an oversized washer with a 6mm hole. You also need an M8 threaded nut and a 12mm set screw. Screw the set screw into the nut so that the chamfer of the bolt protrudes and the holes in the washer and nut can be aligned with it. They should not move relative to each other. Solder or weld them together. Remove the set screw and turn the resulting assembly over.

Place an M12 hex in the center of the washer and install three M8 hex nuts on the three faces of the M12 nut.

Solder or weld the M8 nuts to the washer and remove the M12. Clean the soldering (welding) places of slag and process the seams with a file. Prime and paint the cartridge black (optional).

Screw in three clamping screws M8 12 mm long. You now have a three-jaw chuck. Fully tighten the clamping screws before working on the tabletop machine, otherwise the workpiece may be torn off when working at high speed.

Step 5: Making the Rotary Speed ​​Controller

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To make a regulator, you will need a regulator button from a cordless power tool. It is desirable to find a button without blocking the inclusion.

Assemble the adjustment mechanism as shown in the photo. Parts for its manufacture can be found in scrap metal. You can use a clamp as the basis for the adjustment mechanism.

Look at the regulator. You may notice that in addition to the thick red and black wires, there are also thin wires going to it. For the regulator to work, 3.6 V power must be connected to the thin red and black wires. For this purpose, we will add a 3.6V lithium-ion battery, connected with the positive pole to the black wire, and the negative pole to the red one (reverse polarity). The switch-regulator works like this: the harder you press it, the higher the speed of rotation of the rotor.

The switch has a lever for switching the direction of rotation. It is necessary to choose such a direction that the cartridge, when rotated, is screwed onto the thread of the stud, otherwise it will simply unscrew during the operation of the machine.

To make the regulator, use a piece of Bosch Rexroth square aluminum profile, a few M8 bolts and a lever made from metal scraps by welding or soldering (see photo). Glue the switch to the profile. Adjustment is carried out using a threaded connection M8. When screwing in, the button-regulator is gradually pressed, and the speed of rotation of the motor rotor increases, and when unscrewed, the button is gradually pressed out, and the speed decreases. When the button is fully depressed, the power supply to the electric motor stops.

The battery compartment for the 3.6V lithium-ion battery can be found in various devices where such a cell is used as a backup power source, such as in a motion sensor.

The wires from the power supply are connected to the bottom of the regulator (in the same place as the thin wires of the control circuit). The motor is connected to the terminals on the top of the regulator.

Step 6: Choose a power source

To operate the machine, a voltage of at least 10 V is required. To do this, you need to choose a suitable power source, for example, 12 V. You can connect a 12-volt battery if there is no power supply, but it will not last for a long time.

To ensure safety, cover the rotating parts of the machine with protective covers.

In the photo you can see the aluminum part processed with a file. The part was turned at low speed without cooling. The stop for the cutting tool is an M6 bolt installed in the corner supports.

If the coupling is not well balanced, the machine will vibrate a lot and will need to be rigidly fixed to the workbench.

Step 7: Designing the Dual Axis Tool Holder

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As a base, take a steel blank measuring 125 * 25 * 3 mm.

You will also need M8 bolts: two - 150 mm long and one 200 mm long with threads along the entire length.

Eleven M8 nuts are also needed.

Drill out the threads of 8 nuts with an 8 mm drill bit. On 4 nuts, grind off one of the edges a little. Slide 3 drilled nuts onto two 150mm bolts and thread one threaded nut onto each. Put two drilled nuts on a 200 mm bolt.

Lay all the bolts and nuts on the steel base as shown in the photo. The bolts should be as parallel as possible to each other. Make sure the two middle nuts on each of the two outermost bolts are facing the base plate with the ground edge. These 4 nuts do not need to be soldered. they will move freely over the bolts (sliding nuts). Solder (weld) the last 6 nuts to the plate.

Remove the 200mm center bolt. Take another nut, grind off one edge a little and solder this nut with the edge opposite to the grinded one in the center of the steel square plate (see photo).

Place this square plate in the center of our construction with the nut down, then put the 200mm bolt back into the nut on the square plate. The bolt must be inserted from left to right so that the free thread of the bolt is on the right side.

Center the top plate on the outermost bolts, then slide the sliding nuts under the corners of this plate and carefully solder them to the plate, being careful not to solder them to the bolts.

Make sure the square plate moves freely over the bolts. At first, it can move tight until the slag falls off.

The end bolts are not welded to the base, but are held on the thread. This is done so that they have a little play, which will allow the top plate to move more freely if the bolts were not set parallel enough.

Cut the ends of the end bolts flush with the end bolts. The middle bolt does not need to be cut, it will be the feed screw.

The entire manufacturing process outlined above in this step must be repeated for the M6 ​​bolts. You will need 6 sliding nuts, two 60 mm long bolts and one 75 mm long threaded bolt.

Drill out 6 nuts with a 6mm drill bit. On 4 nuts, grind off one of the edges a little. Slide 2 sliders onto each 60mm bolt and screw on one threaded.

Slide 2 sliders onto the 75mm bolt.

Lay and align the bolts and nuts on the top square plate perpendicular to the M8 bolts. Make sure that the machined edge faces the insert surface. Carefully weld on the 6 end nuts without touching the sliding ones.

Remove the central bolt and grind its head.

Cut the end bolts flush with the brazed nuts.

Place an M6 threaded nut centered between the outermost bolts and insert the center bolt through this nut with the head away from you, the free threaded end towards you. This will be the top feed screw.

Take another steel square plate of the same size as the previous one. Drill a hole in the center of this plate and chamfer it. Center the plate on the top slide. Move the sliding nuts so that there is approximately 6 mm between them.

Weld the center nut through the hole in the plate. Try moving the feed screw. It must move freely. Then weld or solder the side sliders. Check slip.

Weld 4 small head bolts into the corners of the top plate.

Make an aluminum plate with four holes along the edges, which it is put on and screwed to the bolts on the top steel plate. The cutting tool is clamped between the top steel and aluminum plates.

The feed screws must be securely fastened but must not be overtightened. For the bottom feed screw, use a lock nut and a sleeve (long nut): screw them on, tighten them together, then drill a thin through hole in the sleeve nut (which should go through the bolt in the nut). Insert a small nail into the hole, cut it to the required length and rivet (see photo). Screw three nuts onto the top bolt and solder them to it.

To secure the resulting tool holder to the machine, weld 4 oversized washers to the bottom plate. The holder will be screwed to the profile with screws.

Prime and paint the holder black.

Step 8: Set up and adjust the machine

You may need to adjust the motor height so that the cutter is in the center of the workpiece.

It is advisable to replace the foil wound on the motor shaft under the coupling half with a suitable soft metal bushing. This will greatly reduce vibration.

Step 9: Finishing the Machine

Over time, it will be possible to make some improvements to your machine. It is recommended to add a second bearing to the front support block.

A home craftsman with the skills of a turner will not be superfluous on the farm. The problem is that such equipment is expensive and will definitely make a hole in the family budget. However, there is a way out - to assemble a home-made metal lathe with your own hands, which, in terms of technical characteristics, is not inferior to the factory unit. This work will not require extra costs. Today we will figure out how to design a device that will be required to make a metal lathe for home use, and also consider a step-by-step assembly algorithm with detailed photo instructions.

The industrial unit is quite complex in design. Today, such devices are controlled by numerical program units (CNCs). Human participation in the work is reduced to a minimum. However, masters with the education of a turner are trained to work with mechanical installations, which means that a lathe for metal or a mini-workshop, made by hand, will not become something new.

A home-made unit of this type will help the master in metal processing, giving it the desired shape. Such units have found application in agriculture, in the manufacture of parts for machinery, plows, and other equipment. A desktop lathe for metal does not take up much space, it is made from improvised materials, without requiring special investments.

DIY do-it-yourself metal lathe: work performed

The work that can be done on a do-it-yourself turning (milling) machine for metal is quite extensive. Let's list the main ones. With this unit, you can:

• grind a smooth, cylindrical surface;
• cut sharp ends and ledges;
• carve grooves or a cone on the part;
• process the inner surface, drill the workpiece.

Works are carried out with the help of special cutters, for the manufacture of which alloy steel is used.

Very important! If the home master has not encountered turning, he should not perform such work. Without experience, it is easy to get serious injuries, perhaps even incompatible with life. To learn, you should start with woodworking on the machine. The work algorithm is identical, and the risk of injury is lower.

What does a lathe consist of: device details

Let it include many nodes. A do-it-yourself mini-turning machine for metal is equipped with four main ones - a frame (on which parts are attached), a caliper, a front and rear headstock and a tool holder. We should not forget about the electric drive (we will talk about it later in more detail). Let's start with the frame.

Frame for a lathe: what is required for manufacturing

The task of this node is to hold all equipment and parts in a rigid, fixed position. Sometimes it is made of wood, but in this case it will not be possible to process heavy parts - there is a risk of frame distortion, which is unacceptable. The best option would be to make a frame from metal corners and channels.

Helpful information! The thickness of the metal of the channel and the corner depends on the power of the electric drive and the size of the parts planned for processing.

A bunch of metal parts of the frame is carried out by welded or bolted joints. The task is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the frame and assemble the frame according to a pre-compiled, calculated scheme.

Lathe caliper: manufacturing nuances

The support with the tool holder must be movable, but with fixation if necessary. The cutters should be clamped tightly, without backlash. Otherwise, they will vomit during operation, which will lead to injury.

Important! The caliper of the device must be movable

Do-it-yourself tool holder for a lathe

Two or more bolts are used as tool holder clamps. In this case, it is better to make the knot rotating. This will allow you not to change the cutter, each time unscrewing the clamping bolts, but to turn the head, on which up to four cutters are fixed.

Do-it-yourself headstock of a lathe

Through this node, the leading center and the electric drive are connected. For factory-made industrial units, a gearbox is installed in this part, through which it is possible to change the rotation speed. It will not be possible to assemble the “kolobok of gears” itself. The only option for changing speed is to install several pulleys on a shaft that transmits torque, with a different diameter. This implies that each of the pulleys will require a separate belt of a certain length. You can buy the headstock of a lathe in the price range from 10,000 to 30,000 rubles.

Having dealt with the device of such units, let's move on to practical tips for manufacturing.

Do-it-yourself metal lathe manufacturing steps

To begin with, we offer to look at the unit assembled by ourselves. Some details are taken from faulty devices and mechanisms.

The work algorithm will be as follows:

• a detailed drawing of the future unit is drawn up, indicating the dimensions, materials;
• the electric motor is selected according to the power and the number of revolutions per minute;
• strictly following the drawn up scheme, frame parts are prepared in size;
• assembly is carried out by the selected method (welding or bolting).

Let's consider each of these stages in more detail.

Preparation stage: design and drawing up a drawing

As an example, and possibly the basis of a future small lathe, we can take the diagrams of such units, provided by us below.

Helpful information! Choosing a tree for the manufacture of the frame, you should not hope for the durability of the structure. The best option for mounting the frame is a metal channel with welded joints.

When the frame is assembled, we proceed to the manufacture and installation of the remaining nodes on it.

How to choose an electric drive for such a unit

The electric motor is the most important part of the design. The size of the parts that can be made on the machine depends on its power. With an electric motor power of 800÷1000 W, the device will allow processing only small parts. For large workpieces, 1.5÷2 kW motors are used.

An important stage in the installation of the electric motor is the connection to the network. Contacts and connections, whether it is possible to touch them during operation, must be carefully insulated. The motor terminals are connected in a certain order. If the home master does not have skills in this area or he doubts his abilities, it is better to entrust this work to a professional.

Very important! Connection work is carried out after the voltage is removed (from the introductory machine). Remember that electric shock is hazardous to health and can be fatal.

How to assemble a milling or turning machine

After the frame is made, we install the shafts on it, fixing them by welding. Next, we mount the headstock, shafts and pulleys with a caliper. And only lastly we put the electric motor in place, fix it and tighten the belts or chains (depending on the type of torque transmission).

Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands: step by step instructions

The easiest option would be to make a lathe from a drill. Now let's look at step by step what needs to be done for this. We’ll make a reservation right away that such a device will only allow polishing, but not processing at all - there is not enough power for metal turning. We will present more manufacturing videos below, but for now we will consider a device from a drill for woodworking. This will give a general idea, such units are almost identical.

Illustration	Action to take
	To begin with, we saw off a blank from a wooden handle. A handle will subsequently be made from it.
	We drive a sharpened drill into the center of one of the ends. This side will be clamped in the power drill chuck.
	We make a frame. In our case, it is wooden. These clamps are needed for rigid fixation of the drill-drive.
	Installing the drive. The location of the clamps must be clearly calculated according to the size.
	All screws of the clamps are pulled thoroughly. The reliability of fastening, and hence the final result, depends on this.
	In the chuck of a fixed electric drill, we install a workpiece with a drill driven into it and stretch the clamps with a special key.
	We press on the reverse side with the driven center for reliable two-sided fixation. One-sided fastening of the workpiece will not work. All that can be achieved with this is to break the bearings of the drill.
	Thoroughly tighten the fixing nuts. Now the equipment is ready to work.
	We turn on the drill at maximum speed. The power button is fixed with a button on the side of the handle. Now the workpiece can be given the desired look with a chisel and a file.
	Here we have such a neat pen. If you need to grind a metal cylinder, it should be clamped into a chuck, and drill a small hole on the reverse side of the driven center mount, lubricating it with grease or lithol. The rest of the steps are similar.

DIY Lathe Modernization: Some Tricks

Drill units are easily upgraded. For example, the bed on which the electric drill is attached is made movable, and the part is statically fixed. Then, by installing different cutters instead of a drill, cone-shaped or other holes are made. A wheel with sandpaper will allow you to evenly sand the surface.

As for the installation of the CNC (numerical program control), it will not be possible to do such work on your own. It involves the replacement of components and mechanisms of the lathe.

Good to know! Working on a CNC machine is no easier than working on a mechanical one. The turner also needs to know everything about the speed of rotation, reading drawings and projects, materials of cutters for various metals.

The nuances of working on homemade structures

As in the operation of each equipment, various sometimes unpleasant situations arise during the operation of home-made lathes. Powerful motor for working with large metal parts, gives sensitive vibrations. This leads to uneven processing of the workpiece - marriage. This is treated by setting the centers (leading and driven) on one axis, or using a cam mechanism (with one leading center).

It is not recommended to install a collector motor as an electric drive - it is better to use an asynchronous one. It eliminates the disadvantage of unplanned over-revving that can cause the workpiece to fly out of the clamps, causing personal injury or property damage.

We offer you to see a few photos of lathes made by the hands of ordinary home craftsmen.

In order to make it easier for the reader to understand the algorithm for manufacturing such units, below is a video of making a lathe with your own hands:

Safety rules when working on a homemade lathe

The main thing, as in any business, is attentiveness and accuracy. This applies to every action, from the strength of the clamping of the workpiece to the slightest movement of the cutter. There are special requirements for clothing. It is forbidden to work in loose-fitting overalls, with dangling sleeves or the bottom of the jacket. If the clothes are just like that, you should fix the jacket on the sleeves and on the bottom with an elastic band. Remember, if the sleeve is wound around a rotating workpiece, you can be left without a hand.

It is important to monitor the condition of the wiring. At the slightest smell of burnt insulation, you need to turn off the voltage and find the source. Cutters are carefully inspected for cracks before starting work. If one is found, the use of the tool is prohibited.

Very important! Under no circumstances should you approach the machine while intoxicated. Even a small dose of alcohol or a hangover reduces attentiveness. According to statistics, 70% of people left without limbs as a result of an injury at work were intoxicated or suffered from a hangover.

Maintenance of a homemade unit: what actions are required

After each use of the machine, it must be swept clean so that no dust and chips remain. After that, all rotating parts are lubricated.

Before turning on the unit, it is visually inspected for violations of the insulation of the electrical wiring, normal rotation of the bearings. A short-term inclusion without a clamped workpiece is mandatory - “idle”.

Factory-made professional lathes: equipment cost

The cost of such factory-made units is quite high. Consider the prices for some models presented on the Russian market as of January 2018:

brand, model	Workpiece diameter (max), mm	Rotation speed, rpm	Unit weight, kg	Cost, rub.
ML 110×125 Vs (screw-cutting)	110	400÷3600	13	28 000
	180	100÷2500	33	48 000
	300	50÷2500	38	53 000
	300	5000	6.3	10 100
	250	500÷3500	27	14 000

Conclusion

If the home master has the education of a turner or at least similar skills, a lathe on the farm will be useful. It will help save on the purchase of some parts for mechanical devices, polishing or even painting. It is also made for stools or tables. As it became clear from the article, it is not so difficult to make such a unit with your own hands. You just need to be attentive to the schemes and follow certain rules.

And finally, about how to choose a lathe - the video is short, but fascinating and instructive. Happy viewing!

It's all about the money. Metal lathes are very, very expensive things, this applies to even the simplest models.

Making this kind of machine with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who wants it, so many home and artisanal craftsmen build these devices on their own and very successfully.

The lathe is an ancient apparatus, it is an early device for processing a wide variety of parts from a variety of materials - from metal to wood, etc.

Machining is, first of all, turning surfaces both inside and outside, drilling and boring holes of different diameters, threading, shaping surface relief using knurling.

If we talk about turning metal parts, then industrial turning devices manufactured by different factories are expensive and massive units, which are very difficult to control.

They are in no way related to desktop devices, these are serious industrial units that, in principle, are not suitable for handicraft work. Therefore, a homemade lathe is a great idea for all reasons.

Drawing of a lathe.

You can, for example, make it in the form of a mini version, which will be quite enough for processing both metal parts and blanks from any other materials.

There are certain limitations when using homemade mini-machines: they are mainly designed to work with round parts, with sections such as axles, handles for tools, wheels, etc.

In mini-machines, parts need to be fixed only in a horizontal position for their rotational movements. Excess material in the course of turning is removed with cutters, which are fixed in the support of the lathe.

Components of a mini metal lathe

The composition of any turning device is traditional, all of the following elements are present, regardless of how it is made - manually at home or in an industrial way.

The devices consist of the following components:

bed

The main bearing element of the entire structure, giving it rigidity and strength. The bed of a homemade lathe is made from a wooden bar or metal blanks in the form of finished corners.

The main requirement for the frame is the necessary strength, since the design of the machine during the machining process is subjected to strong vibration.

Drive unit

The main element of the part responsible for the power of work. The drive must be chosen very correctly based on the power needed. This is not an easy task and should be carefully considered.

A used drive from a washing machine, a construction mixer, or something else will suffice if you are making a lightweight metalworking machine.

The number of revolutions with such drives is about 1500 rpm, and the power is 200W or a little higher.

1. Rear grandma.
   This is a special steel plate, to which a steel corner is also welded. It is needed to tightly fix the workpiece to the frame for high-quality processing.
2. Front grandma.
   This is the same part as the tailstock, but unlike the front, it is fixed on the movable frame of the device.
3. Anterior and posterior centers.
4. Caliper.

This is one of the key factors for the working elements of the device, which you can read about below.

How is rotation done?

Lathe device.

Torque is generated in the machine in many ways. You can install the working part on the rotary shaft of the electric motor directly. This approach will save a lot of things: both space and money for spare parts.

Unfortunately, such an arrangement is far from always possible, therefore, the so-called gears are appointed as the main performer of the rotational movement. They are chain, belt and friction.

Each type of transmission has its pros and cons:

Belting

The most budgetary transmission option for a motor with many advantages. The main one is reliability. Making a belt drive is simple: most often, craftsmen take one from other devices.

There is also a drawback - this is its fragility, as the belts wear out quickly. You will have to change them quite often.

Chain and friction transmission

Chain drives are expensive and much more bulky than belt drives. But such a transfer will last much longer, so you will get "strategic" cost savings. The friction drive is exactly in the middle between the belt and chain drives.

The main components of the device

The final quality of the machined part depends on the caliper. Forces, time and all other resources invested in the process can go down the drain without a well-established caliper. This part is located on special "sleds" that move along the frame along the guide vectors.

The movement of the caliper can occur in the following directions:

• Longitudinal movement, in which the working element of the device moves along the part to be joined. This direction is made when turning a circular thread or to remove the surface layer of paint or something else from the workpiece.
• The lateral movement of the caliper is performed perpendicular to the axis of the part. With the help of this movement, holes and recesses are made.
• The tilting movement can be carried out at various angles of inclination, it is used to produce surface recesses of various configurations.

It should be remembered that the caliper, as the most working and moving part of the apparatus, is the most wearable.

Elements of a lathe.

Rapid wear is due to the action of constant and severe vibration, which results in loosening of fasteners and subsequent backlash, which always affects the quality of turning work in one form or another. Such trouble can be avoided, this requires constant adjustment and adjustment of the caliper.

The caliper can be adjusted in different ways. If the backlash is adjustable, then it is eliminated with a screw. Gaps can be eliminated with the help of special inserts between the carriage and the guides.

The gaps appear when the screw is worn, which controls the longitudinal and transverse movements in the planes. The seals can also wear out. In this case, they are washed and lubricated until completely impregnated with machine oil. Sometimes they just need to be replaced with new ones.

Stages of assembling a lathe

The power level of the motor must be calculated depending on the planned work - the dimensions of the metal parts with which you are going to work on your new unit.

If your plans are to work with small parts, a motor with a power of about 1 kW will be enough. Such motors are found on sewing machines or other household electrical appliances. If your future parts are larger, choose a motor with a power of 1.5 to 2.0 kW.

The power also depends on the material you are going to work with. If, for example, your material is wood, then home-made wood lathes with your own hands, including a home-made cutter for a wood lathe, will not require much power.

The most important issue is the reliable isolation of all electrical components. The best option would be to consult a specialist. Confidence in the safety of the device and the professional reliability of the design will not hurt you: after all, you are going to work with electricity and metals. And they don't joke around.

We make a machine from a drill

The drill will look great as a drive to the lathe.

With this elegant solution, you will save a lot of money and make your life much easier, because it has a number of great advantages:

• Modularity of the device: it is simply assembled and disassembled. The drill is detached from the bed without any difficulty and reattached.
• Such a model is very transportable, you can work with it everywhere - even in the country, even in the garage.
• Significant cost savings: no need to purchase additional replacement tips or belt drive.

To assemble a device from a drill, you will need almost the same parts as for a conventional device. Only two things will not be needed: an electric motor and a headstock, and these are the most important and most expensive structural elements.

Since the machine is light and compact, there is no need to build a stable bed, a workbench or table will be enough. The drill is fixed with a clamp and a clamp.

The design and dimensions of the lathe.

The expansion of the functions of a turning device from a drill can be done using additional nozzles and other devices. You can make great homemade woodworking machines.

There are, of course, downsides. On the device from a drill, you will not be able to process large parts. You can try to improve the model in this direction. For example, add a belt drive and to increase the number of revolutions.

But the game is not worth the candle: it will lose its main advantages in the form of simplicity and lightness. Thus, a home-made apparatus from a drill makes sense only in cases where work is underway with medium-sized parts.

A lathe from a drill is capable of much: it can not only process parts. But also work with paints - apply them to the workpiece during its rotation. This is a homemade woodworking machine.

Winding wire on a transformer, applying various kinds of notches on the surface of parts are just some examples of using a multifunctional machine from a drill and a turning tool for metal.

And now the simplest machine

Today, the network has a huge number of drawings, instructions and videos on the topic “how to make a homemade lathe”, with the help of which independent work on the manufacture of a lathe is quite real and almost everyone can do it.

You can, of course, aim at a mini-machine with program control. And you can stop at the simplest option, which will work perfectly at low cost on a variety of details of various configurations.

Wooden racks are attached to the frame with bolts. The bed must be reliable, therefore it is made of steel corners. In extreme cases, it can be made from bars.

Wood lathe device.

The cutting element is fixed on the knot from the handpiece, it will move along it. A sheet of metal should be tightly fixed on the moving surface to protect the structure from deformation. In addition, it will help to position the metal turning tool exactly to the part to be machined.

For the manufacture of the headstock and tailstock, suitable metal cylinders with the appropriate diameter are selected. They are placed in bearing assemblies, which are pre-placed in wooden racks.

The rotational movement is transmitted through the front center, combined with the motor using a belt drive. The part is fixed between the front and rear sections and processed with a cutter from a handpiece.

There are no problems with the search and selection of an electric motor for a mini lathe.

We already wrote that a small power motor can be found on any household electrical device, any used household appliance is quite suitable for this task. As a drive, you can use grinders or drills.

Safety

Since we are talking about working with metals, the requirements for complying with safety regulations will be clear and tough, from which you cannot escape. The first step is to check the performance of the new machine immediately after its manufacture.

How to check the performance of the machine: the spindle should rotate without the slightest difficulty. It is necessary to measure the coincidence of the axis of rotation of the parts in the machine with the center of symmetry of the same part. The common axis should be visible at the front and rear centers.

Elements of the design of the machine for turning.

The electric motor is always covered with a special casing that protects the motor from dirt and metal particles, as well as the machine operator himself. If your device is made from a drill, no casing is needed.

If you decide to equip your homemade lathe with a powerful motor, be sure to test in your home network to see if it is enough for your powerful motor. In general, it is better to adhere to established traditions and use old acquaintances - electric motors from household appliances.

Making a homemade lathe is a great and elegant solution from all points of view. Ease of execution, cost savings, efficient processing of parts - all this is about homemade lathes.