Garden hand drills: types and do-it-yourself manufacturing. How to make a drill for drilling a well with your own hands We prepare the necessary materials for manufacturing

When building a house and landscaping, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing pillars, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required during the device. Make these holes with a motorized or manual drill. They are available in stores in sufficient quantities, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are a lot of them.

Designs and application

Easier-to-make garden earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of home-made drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not just about size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. Works well on "light" soils. On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is the basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a dredger can be made of.

materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4' to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.

Knives-blades can be made from:

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the ground easier to cut.

Piku-drill is made from different materials - there are a lot of its designs. They make just a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And also a combination of the two.

Pika - one of the tip options

And finally, about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and the method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of a solid diameter.

On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades - for pits of different diameters

In the disks themselves, holes will have to be cut in the center so that they fit snugly against the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, follow it with a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - it will be necessary to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

It is also necessary to spread the edges by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that the steel used is not hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, then it is unlikely to be bent.

From saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, therefore it is sawn in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high performance. Even used discs have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters - large ones. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.

If a drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it has a relatively small weight, it is easy to work with. The process of work is this - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled it out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tormented by dragging a small amount of soil from the depth. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

And all these are handmade drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - to water, underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of discs is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut for the rod, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. Welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for piles TISE

In the author's version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. This makes the job easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel acts as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed movably, when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is loosened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

In the photo below - the second version of a home-made drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to the hinged structure with bolted connections.

The dredger is from an old propane tank. The earth is collected from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must constantly be moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are conditional, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.

For planting plants, making a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. They choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows an interesting design of the handle - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden drill

Both of these units work well, but the garden one often has to be removed, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden drill drawing

Video materials

A hand drill for the earth is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply indispensable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill is manual and automatic.

Build your own hand drill

Varieties of Boers

Different types of drills are used for different construction works. . Each of them has a special design:

Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. It is used for making holes for poles. Since the design is longer, it can be taken out much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden drill.
Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are placed at different angles. Basically, the drill is used to make holes for planting. Hence the specific name "garden". But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a spatula that leans back at the bottom of the pit for expansion.

The easiest to make are garden twirls. The design may have varieties, depending on the soil with which this tool will work. This is the advantage of a self-made tool. It can be made according to your needs. The point is not even in the diameter of the blades themselves, but in the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.

In this video, consider a homemade earthen drill:

Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as "universal". For light soil, they will be useful, but on harder soil they are ineffective.

Self-production

Even without the practice of manufacturing such structures, it will not be difficult to make a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.

Garden drill elements:

Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The second, on the opposite side, also has an angle of inclination of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can not be welded to the pipe, but bolted. Also, the design will be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. Alternatively, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be made 40-50 cm more than the required depth of the pit. If at the same time the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to make a collapsible structure. This can be done from two parts of the pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will be reminiscent of fishing spinning (telescopic connection).
Pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
Tip-drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill at the initial stages - the first loosens the ground, which facilitates the work process.

This is the basic equipment of a manual earthen drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.

Necessary materials

The pipe is the basis of the structure. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.

Knives-blades can be made from various materials using:

steel sheets 4 mm;
cutting disc from a saw of the desired diameter.

The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disc must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. The side parts are also better to sharpen. So, the disc will cut the ground better when drilling.

The tip can be made in different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. And you can combine both options.

Blade attachment

First you need to decide on the type of attachment of the blades - removable or welded "tightly". If the drill is collapsible, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for the bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like cutting blades.

In addition, the holes made in the shelves must be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. In the blades in the center, you will have to cut holes for the pipe. This must be done both when bolting, and with a monolithic version. If a saw blade is used, then there is already such a hole. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.

Use of sheet steel

To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, it is enough to cut out a template from paper under the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. Two parts are fastened by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.

The hole diameter should be slightly larger than the pipe diameter. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and unbend it in different directions (one up and the second down) or make a drill from two halves.

In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the chosen design model. In both the first and second versions, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large angle of inclination, the drilling process is much faster.

On hard ground, the blades can deform under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, thick steel supports are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. It is difficult to find a sheet of hardened steel, but even if there is such a material, it is unlikely that it will be possible to bend it at the right angle.

Use an old saw blade to create a drill

Saw blade construction

Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand drill for earthmoving is almost ideal. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to straighten hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, then you must first weld the shelves for fastening parts of the disk from the saw.

Such structures are characterized by high performance and durability. In order for the drill to be even sharper, the edges (cut off side) are also sharpened. The semi-circular sides already have a good sharpening, which over time becomes sharper and more efficient when working.

garden drill modifications

For harder soils, a garden drill is useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping back a few centimeters to the side, larger blades are mounted. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work.

If you need to make a do-it-yourself drill for poles, then this is ideal. The design is very light and easy to work with.

If it is necessary to make a hole under the pillars of small diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw out the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then in this way the work will take a long and hard time. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications on your own, then you can use the drawings.

Screw structures

Working with an auger drill is much more difficult than with a garden drill. This is due to the large number of turns, which have serious resistance. . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives. and no manual drilling is required. Often they make wells of great depth, etc.

In order to make an auger drill, it is necessary to prepare several discs of the same diameter. The number of discs corresponds to the number of turns of the screw. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.

The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe in turn. And also it is necessary to weld the round parts together.

Piling drill

The classic version of the drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting earth. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile. It is not very convenient to use such a home-made drill for personal purposes, since an additional folding knife interferes greatly.

In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use an ordinary garden drill for making piles for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting earth. The job is much easier in this case.

For this design, a cut from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting land can be made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed on the levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the uppermost position, as it is stretched with a cable. When the bottom is reached, the cable relaxes and the knife falls on the pile walls, starting to remove the earth and form an extension of the desired size.

As an alternative, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. In order to reduce friction, the well is constantly poured with water. You can work with such a tool on hard ground.

Alternative options for rotaries

In order to plant vegetation, it makes no sense to make a complex structure, even the simplest garden drill. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a stainless steel shovel and mark it for further modification.

A slit of 5-8 cm is made from the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is folded in the opposite direction to each other. The sides of the shovel are also slightly bent, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.

If the ground is soft, then the usual rotation will be ineffective. For this, a mechanism with an elongated cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which hardened steel blades are fixed.

Making a hand drill for earthworks for personal use is easy. You just need to be able to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools of many summer residents, as well as a little understanding of the drawings.

A hand drill is necessary for construction during repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or in the garden. With the help of this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for mounting supports in the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced by any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that you can make a hand drill for poles yourself, while saving a significant amount of money. All that is required to make this indispensable tool is a detailed instruction describing how to make a drill, the availability of the necessary materials, tools and, of course, patience.

With a hand drill, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for poles or plant trees.

It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loam base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made of high quality materials. In this case, the period of its operation can be unlimited.

Materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do, you need to have:

welding machine;
welding clamps;
grinders with a cutting disc for iron;
electric drills;
pairs of gas keys;
dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
die holder;
vise.

Materials for the manufacture of a drill: a disk from a grinder, a drill, pipes.

As practice shows, the use in this case of simple cutting inserts with a sufficiently large diameter is unable to give the desired effect. A hand drill made from such material will take your time and effort in the process of drilling earthen holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made hand drill will turn out to be much more efficient, and it will take much less time to work with it.

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Device

The hand drill consists of such elements as:

Pen.
Insert.
Cutting attachment.
Coupling.
Bolt with nut.
Cutting plates.
Guide rod.
Blade.

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Production of pre-rippers

As for the worm version of the tool, it is quite difficult to make it yourself. With this in mind, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of effort applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.

The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crumble dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the pit and supply the already loosened soil to the surface of the disc ripper.

The disc ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil up. In one such process, the depth of a dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, it will be quite difficult to work with a hand drill.

A good material for the manufacture of pre-rippers can be an automobile spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.

To sharpen the cutting edge of such a ripper, a certain angle must be observed. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can proceed to welding the next section of the rod. The next step to it (butt) is to attach the second element of the pre-ripper. In conclusion, it remains to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise play may occur.

As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole - for its manufacture it is recommended to use a processed circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid the displacement of forces, due to which dug holes can turn out to be curves.

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Threading

At the opposite end of the rod, it is necessary to cut a thread onto which the coupling will subsequently be screwed. For this purpose, you will need a vise and a special die. Clamp the rod (end up) in a powerful vise, while maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, absolutely undesirable shock absorption may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end so that you get a cone. This will ensure that the die sits correctly and evenly on the bar. After that, you can start cutting work.

There is nothing difficult in the process of threading. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die is stuck during operation, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After that, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The thread is considered the most optimal, the length of which is 10 cm.

The next step is to screw the sleeve onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of the butt joint. On this, you can safely assume that you have coped with the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.

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Making a pen

The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at a right angle in a T-shaped way. The main bar itself can be 40 to 50 cm long. The recommended handle width should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the resistance of the rod to the rotating force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand drill for poles will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the earth in moderate parts.

Before welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, while keeping the corners straight. This way, you will not only maintain the correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not move to the side. The welding seam should be on the end side of the main rod. At this stage, you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and duration of the life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on the entire load of efforts, do not spare the electrodes for its implementation.

The irregularities of the joint are turned with a grinder, this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get during the operation of a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod, similarly to the previous one.

Digging holes for fence posts is a problem known to every summer resident who wants to equip his site. Narrow holes can be dug with a simple shovel, but this will take a long time and cause a lot of inconvenience. If the soils on the site have a complex structure, the task becomes unsolvable without the use of special tools. A drill for poles, which not everyone has on the farm, can easily cope with such work. You have to buy it, rent it and hire a specialist.

What it is

The garden drill is a compact device with a simple design. The principle of using the tool and the design of the drill are similar to the action and device of an ordinary corkscrew. With the help of rotational movements, it crushes stones and roots, deepens complex dense soils.

Designs and application

The purpose of the drill is to drill wells of a certain depth. Most often this is the depth under the columnar foundation. The cutting part of the drill during rotation forms holes, the profile of which depends on the shape of this part, it happens:

in the form of a screw;
having two blades;
in the form of a screw;
in the form of semi-disk;
having many cutting tiers;
fully welded and removable.

The earth drilling tool has a different design. Differences in the structure of the drills, which determine their functional characteristics:

ripper. The element consists of inclined planes (2 pieces) or an auger. The auger is located on the rod and is a spiral knife;
soil receiver. The component accumulates soil and has the highest productivity when preparing holes with a diameter of more than 35 cm;
forming plow. The device expands the lower zone. Effective in the construction of large structures;
bolt fastening. Allows you to extend the design for the preparation of holes of great depth (standard working length of the rod is 70 cm, plus an additional pipe - 50 cm). The device is located on the end sections of the rod.

The most unpretentious productive form is a simple garden hand drill for poles. Its design consists of such details.

The cutting part, consisting of two semicircles, sharpened along the edges. If you design a drill for poles with your own hands, you can make the blades removable and fasten with bolts. This will allow you to change the diameter of the pit at your discretion.
Kernel. Its length is calculated as the sum of the depth of the required hole and 60 additional centimeters. The part is made from a profile pipe or a simple round pipe.
Pen. The standard rod is 1.5 m, a T-shaped handle from 40 to 60 cm is welded to it for ease of operation.
Tip-drill. The part is located under the cutting blades. The tip of the drill at the beginning of work centers the tool, and then loosens the soil.

The tool is used for the following work:

construction of a light chain-link fence and a more serious fence;
the erection of supports for the gazebo and climbing plants in the green hedge;
planting a hedge (barberry, deren, spirea);
organization of subsoil irrigation of bushes. Holes are made half a meter from the tree and sections of pipes are inserted through which watering is carried out. The root system develops in depth;
plant nutrition. Several holes are drilled around the plant, into which fertilizer with humus and peat is placed;
aeration. Holes are made with a drill at a distance of 0.5 m from each other and covered with sand. Sand passes oxygen well and saturates the soil;
drilling small wells and compost pits;
laying of communications in tunnels with an inclination, installation of ventilation systems.

Types of drills for poles

Before you buy a drill or decide to make it yourself, you should figure out what types of these mechanisms exist. Simple hand-held garden pole drills are very simple and light in weight. To cope with such a device is not difficult even for a person inexperienced in technology. By making translational circular movements with the handle of the tool, the gardener sets in motion the entire structure that drills.

Model with removable cutters

Two types of nozzles are attached to the model of a hand drill with interchangeable cutters: 150 mm and 20 mm. The tool performs two actions at the same time - it deepens the drifts to the desired size and pulls out the earth. The hole is obtained with a clear shape and size required for poles or planting. The height of the tool is 1.2 m, and the cutters are 3 mm thick. The design is equipped with a comfortable rubberized reinforced handle (56 cm). Made from durable materials, the tool has a long service life. The edges of the auger are easy to re-sharpen yourself.

With a 150 mm cutter, you can perform work:

plant care - top dressing, root treatment;
planting bushes;
taking soil samples, determining the water level;
installation of supports;
drilling of wells and pits for ventilation and drainage.

With cutter 200 mm:

planting plants with a tap root;
extraction of water, sand and clay;
installation of supports for large structures (fence, gates, greenhouses).

Auger drilling device

The auger drill has an elongated cutting part, which allows you to reduce the time of work, taking it out of the pit less often. The device is equipped with a spiral cutting surface. The tool is used for drilling holes for posts for fences and other structures. Auger drills are used in the mining industry for rock drilling. The drilling machine operating in this industry is also equipped with augers.

What to look for when buying

Installation of fence posts requires the preparation of holes for the supports. To carry out this work, it is much better to use earth drills, which you can buy, do it yourself or rent it. It is necessary, first of all, to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the tool. This takes into account the required depth of holes, their diameter and number (if you rent a gasoline drill, then the number of holes per shift). The knives (shovel) with which the tool is equipped require great attention. They should be sharp and preferably self-sharpening. Cutting elements will be used for soil treatment, breaking stones, cutting grass, so they must be made of quality materials. When choosing a tool for purchase or rent, it is necessary to select an aggregate that matches the characteristics of the type of soil that will have to be processed.

Estimated cost

If a person is regularly engaged in drilling holes, building and caring for plants on his site, it makes sense for him to purchase a simple drill with good qualities for permanent use. On the garden equipment market, you can buy a simple auger drill for 629 rubles or even a ROOSTOK garden drill for 329 rubles. On average, the price of hand drills, depending on the material, cutting surface, convenience, reaches 2000 rubles, which is quite affordable for everyone. In the event that global earthworks are to be carried out for the construction of a capital fence around the entire perimeter and the preparation of holes of great depth, it makes sense to rent equipment. Rent of drilling equipment will cost 12-20 thousand rubles. Manual pit drills can be rented for 9-11 thousand rubles per shift. Equipment for drilling holes deeper than 12 meters and up to 80 cm wide has a rental value of up to 18 thousand rubles per shift. If construction is underway on the site, and piles need to be screwed in, then the cost of renting equipment for this can reach up to 80 thousand rubles per shift.

How to make a drill for poles with your own hands. Step-by-step description of tool manufacturing

Sometimes a gardener wonders how to make a drill on his own. The drill is a combination of the upper part (handle) and the lower (cutting). The length of the structure must be at least a meter, which will allow you to dig holes 70 cm deep. This, as a rule, is enough to perform work in the garden.

List of necessary parts of materials and tools

For the manufacture of the structure you will need:

pipe sections 400, 500 and 500 mm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm and an outer diameter of 40 mm;
discs with a diameter of 100 and 150 mm;
nut and bolt with M20 metric thread;
drill with a diameter of 20 mm and a tip.

Discs for construction can be taken from a circular saw or made of steel with a thickness of 3 mm or more.

To assemble the drill, you may need tools:

welding machine. You can use the apparatus of any simplified design;
Bulgarian. A tool with a 125 mm disc can be used for cutting and sharpening metal;
two hammers - a metalwork and a small sledgehammer "balda", which can be used as an anvil;
anvil (possible from improvised means);
vise of any type.

The pipe is clamped in a vice, and a cone (tip) is formed at its end with the help of cutting and a sledgehammer, which must be exactly in the middle, otherwise the drill will lead to the side during operation.

Production of pre-rippers

The part is designed to loosen the soil and hold the vertical position. For its manufacture, you can use a metal tape 3-4 cm wide, 25 cm long and 4 mm thick. The detail occupies 10-15 cm from the length of the rod. The workpiece is sharpened on one side at an angle of 10 degrees, and the other side is welded to the rod. The direction of the tape must correspond to the direction of rotation of the future drill. The end of the tape is cut off from below (30 degrees) and sharpened ovally.

After the pre-ripper, cutting blades are welded to the axis, made from an old disk from a circular saw, cut into two parts. They are welded to the axis at a spiral angle, and the sides are bent in opposite directions, so that one turns out to be an intake (it should be sharpened), and the other is a push-out. Homemade drill is ready.

Threading

If a well is drilled on the site, and the length of the drill is insufficient, then it is necessary to make the drill pipe split. It is necessary to make several additional rods with a length of 1 m or more, so that it is enough to reach the desired depth of the well. Sections can be connected using a threaded coupling. The thread is cut at the ends of the sections and reinforced with a cotter pin. Such fastening will exclude spontaneous unscrewing of pipes.

Making a pen

The handle is the element that transmits the rotational movement of the entire structure. It is made of materials with a large margin of safety, since when working with complex rocky soil, a decent load will fall on it. The handle is usually made from rolled metal. It should not spring and unambiguously transfer forces to the entire device. The upper edge of the main pipe is connected to the handle by welding. The complexity of the entire process depends on the size of the handle (lever). The length equal to 50 cm is considered standard and optimal. For the manufacture of the handle, a piece of pipe 50 cm long and 1.25 cm in diameter is taken. The diameter is selected according to the preferences of the user himself. The workpiece is welded to the base perpendicularly.

Additional links

Sharpening of working surfaces is one of the important stages. To make the drill easier to enter the ground, the lower edges of the cutting strip are sharpened at an angle of 60 degrees. For the same purpose, additional notches of 3 mm are made on them. At the end of the tip, a drill is welded, which facilitates entry into the soil. The nozzle is short-lived and quickly destroyed, since it bears the main load when drilling the soil. For ease of use of the tool and prevention of injury, the handle must be carefully sanded so that there are no nicks, or a piece of rubber or plastic hose should be used.

Final step and application of protective coating

At the end of the work, it is necessary to carefully clean all welds and other joints with sandpaper. For further processing, a primer and a phosphating solution are used. The last stage of processing is painting the product. The coating will prevent premature deterioration of the material and corrosion and increase the service life.

Tool Performance Techniques

When the active use of a do-it-yourself dredger begins, in practice its shortcomings begin to come to light. This may be the poor quality of the selected materials, incorrect calculation or manufacturing defects. You can always find a way to improve your design.

Ways to improve the design

It is possible to strengthen the tip of the tool for working in dense soil layers. On it, a grinder can make notches (like a screw pipe). To work on light soils, you can make a pre-ripper, like auger turns (1-2 pcs.). The auger is welded at the base of the drill. In this case, the drill will be much easier to enter the ground without requiring significant effort.

For laying deep wells, many craftsmen make a special extension for the main pipe. At the same time, threaded connections are not used, since when pulling out the tool, a piece of the rod could be unscrewed, and the main structure could remain in the ground. Therefore, it is recommended to use fasteners of the "father-mother" type with fixation with bolts and nuts.

Operation and care of the post drill

Making garden equipment yourself is one thing, but how to make equipment so that it lasts a long time and performs its functions correctly. It is necessary to properly operate and care for it, observing the rules:

the blade of the cutting surface and the main rod should be immediately coated with an anti-corrosion compound;
paint the tool with paint for metal;
with each use, the sharpening of the blade should be checked and, if necessary, sharpened with sandpaper or a bar;
to secure before drilling, loosen the soil with a shovel;
the drill should be pulled out carefully, avoiding deflection of the cutting surface;
after work, it is necessary to clean the tool from the soil.

Do you want to equip the water supply system on your site by drilling a well yourself? Agree that the presence of water supply and sewerage significantly increases the level of comfort when living in a private house or in the country. But calling specialists to equip a well or a well will cost quite a lot.

Have you decided to make a drill for a well with your own hands and are looking for a simple homemade version? We will help you in this matter - the article contains useful information about the process of making a homemade spiral type drill and a spoon drill.

A list of the necessary tools and materials is given, thematic photos and useful video recommendations for the construction of a homemade drill are selected.

Our detailed instructions, equipped with step-by-step photos, will help even a beginner to make a simple and uncomplicated drill.

The increase in the length of the string of rods attached to the drill will be carried out gradually, as the drill string moves deeper.

There are several options for connecting rods into a long drill rod, these are:

Threaded socket. To create such a connection, a thread is cut inside each section, which will correspond to the dimensions of the connecting element. The threaded coupling is made to the desired length. It remains for us to exclude the possibility of spontaneous unscrewing of the connection. For these purposes, a splint retainer is used. This method is simple and reliable.
Nut and bolt. They are welded to rods made of pipes of small diameter. This is a fairly simple, but not reliable enough option. It will be necessary to weld on a thin-walled pipe, on which such a connection is unlikely to be strong. In addition, in order to fix such a threaded connection of the rods, additional efforts will have to be made.
Welded couplings. They are cut from a pipe whose diameter is larger than that of the rod. Then tightly weld the sleeve to the pipe at one end of the section. Freely insert the next section into the same coupling on the other side. Now you need to fix the sections so that they do not rotate. To do this, you can insert a bolt across the pipe and fix it with a nut on the other side.

To make a do-it-yourself drill for a deep well, several rods are connected. Moreover, it is better if their connection is extremely simple. Indeed, in the process of drilling, the tool will rise to the surface so that it is freed from the ground.

Each rise of the drill is accompanied by its division into its component parts, and each subsequent descent is accompanied by a new assembly and extension.