We make our own draft ceiling in the house. How to make a draft ceiling on wooden beams and concrete How to make a black ceiling in a house

The design of the ceiling in a wooden house is most often a kind of "pie" of two outer layers of sheathing, fixed on the beams of the attic floor, between which one of the types of insulation is laid. Tem at least, besides this system, there are other ceiling designs.

How to make the ceiling in a wooden house correctly in order to avoid heat leakage from the premises and prevent the penetration of cold air from the attic? This question arises before every owner of such buildings. In addition, the interior decoration of the ceiling is no less important, since the appearance of the entire interior will depend on its appearance. Therefore, you need to consider whether the surface will be additionally sheathed with decorative material.

But first, you need to consider in detail the main structure, its installation, as well as all the materials necessary for it.

Attic floor and ceiling construction

Any wooden structure is covered with beams, which are the basis for sheathing the ceiling and floor of the attic or the second floor of the building. There are three main ceiling designs - hemmed, panel and floor.

false ceiling

The scheme of the hemmed structure looks like this:

1 - hemmed ceiling boards;

2 - floor beam;

3 - rolling sheathing;

4 - insulating material;

5 - vapor barrier film.

• It is most convenient to carry out installation, starting with fixing the vapor barrier film on the floor beams from the side of the premises. It is stretched and nailed to the beams with staples using a stapler. The vapor barrier cloths overlap each other by 100 ÷ 150 mm and, after fixing on the beams, are glued together with the help of construction waterproof adhesive tape.

The vapor barrier can also be laid after the bottom filing is completed, then the film will cover not only the boards fixed from below, but also the floor beams. This is especially convenient if fine-fraction expanded clay is used as a heater. If this option of insulation flooring is chosen, then it is carried out from the side of the attic.

• Hemmed ceiling boards are mounted on top of the film. Often, instead of boards, particle boards (chipboard or better - OSB) or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm are used.

The filing is selected depending on which decorative ceiling coating should be fixed on top of it. It should be noted that when choosing a decorative finish in the form of a wooden lining, it is used for filing the ceiling, without prior installation of sheet material or boards.

• Further, the work is carried out from the side of the attic, but before they are carried out, it is necessary to take care of safety. Since it is impossible to step on the filing boards in any case, it is necessary to lay a temporary boardwalk perpendicular to the floor beams and you can only walk on it during work, periodically shifting it to the desired distance.
• Insulation is laid or poured between the floor beams on the vapor barrier film. The choice of this material will be discussed below.

• If a roll insulation is selected, produced in mats or backfill, then it is recommended to cover it from above with a waterproofing film, which can be used as dense polyethylene or roofing felt. It is fixed with staples to the floor beams.
• On top of the insulation and waterproofing, a rolling sheathing is laid, which will serve as the floor of the attic.

Another way to install all the components is to carry out the entire process from the side of the attic, but it is not only uncomfortable, but also extremely dangerous, since to the filing has to be done in an uncomfortable position. If this method of work is chosen, then a temporary boardwalk made of durable thick boards that can withstand the weight of the master is also required.

Decking ceiling

The floor ceiling differs from the hemming absence during its installation of the floor beams of the room. If the rooms are small, no more than 2500 mm wide, and each of them will be covered separately, then such a ceiling design is quite suitable for its installation.

• Ceiling boards in this case are fixed on the bearing walls of the building or on a bar nailed to the walls along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 120 ÷ 150 mm from their top.
• Boards for a flooring ceiling must be chosen thick enough - at least 50 mm, since they will be mounted insulation and parts that form the attic floor.

At the same time, it should be taken into account that if the boards are to be installed on a beam, then it is recommended to lay it on brackets made of reinforcing bars driven into the wall and additionally fix it with nails or self-tapping screws.

It is advisable to choose a lining for flooring, which is connected using special grooves.

• Further, from the side of the attic, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier.
• On top of the film, an insulating material is laid, which is closed with waterproofing film, fixed on the walls with brackets.
• Then, on another row of fixed beams or on load-bearing walls, a plank floor is laid - an attic floor.

panel ceiling

This ceiling consists of individual panels combined into one structure. Most often, panels made on the floor are lifted and stacked on load-bearing beams, and then connected to each other.

Each of the panels consists of the following elements:

• A box or shield made of two beams and boards.

The timber is installed as a log, at such a distance from each other that the internal distance between them is 600 mm. This width is considered optimal, since most heaters made in mats have it.

• Then a vapor barrier film is laid in the resulting box.
• A heater is laid on top of it, which is covered with waterproofing on top. It is attached to the side rails.

In this form, the panel rises to the floor beams. If the finished blocks are made small in size, then it will be easy to raise them to a height, and there they will already be combined into a single structure with an upper plank sheathing.

• When fastening individual panels from the side of the beams, insulation material should be laid between them to close the "bridges" of cold penetration.

It should be noted that some masters prefer to assemble the panels at a height, immediately along the entire length or width of the room, since it is not possible to lift it entirely due to the rather large weight.

Want to know more about ceiling designs?

Thermal insulation materials for ceiling insulation

It is very important to choose the right insulation material, since not only the warmth in the house, but also the safety of the residents will depend on this. If the wood can be processed independently flame retardant impregnations, then, when choosing a heater, you should immediately pay attention to the marking according to its flammability class, which should be placed on the package.

Criterias of choice

When purchasing insulation material, you need to focus on the following criteria:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Moderate density.
• Low hygroscopicity, i.e. the material should absorb moisture to a minimum.
• The minimum flammability, which is indicated on the packaging in letters and numbers:

- NG - non-combustible material;

- G 1 - low flammability;

- G 2 - moderate flammability;

- G 3 - medium flammability;

- G 4 - strong flammability.

• It is equally important to pay attention to the ability to smoke generation when the insulation is smoldering, since smoke can be as dangerous as fire. This parameter is designated from D1 to D3, respectively - low, medium and high smoke generation.
• Another parameter related to fire safety is flame propagation. RP 1 ÷ RP4 . The rate of spread of fire is classified according to the same principle as the first two parameters - from low (1) to high (4).
• Ecological cleanliness of the insulation - it should not immediately or over time release fumes dangerous to humans into the environment.
• Ease and speed of installation.

The durability of the material without losing its performance.

Soundproof properties - ability suppress external noises (for example, the sounds of heavy rain or hail pounding on the roof), keep the silence in the house.

The table shows the main physical and technical parameters of the most used heaters:

materials	Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°С	Thickness in mm corresponding. R=1.2 m²×°C/W	Density kg/m³	Working temperature, °С	Water vapor permeability Mg/(m×h×Pa)
polyurethane foam	0,025	30	40÷60	-100 to +150	0.04÷0.05
	0,07	36	30÷-45	From - 50 to +75	0,14
Polyethylene foam	0,045	56	35	-60 to +90	0,1
Styrofoam	0.03	60	40÷125	-50 to +75	0.23
stone wool	0,047	56	35÷150	-60 to +180	0.53
glass wool	0,056	67	15÷100	-60 to +480	0.53

It makes sense to briefly consider additional characteristics, the most popular of the heaters presented in the table.

Types of mineral wool

One of the most popular heaters, and I must say that deservedly, is mineral wool. This term breaks down several materials that are made from various natural raw materials, so the technical characteristics may vary slightly:

Table of comparative characteristics of varieties of mineral wool.

Name of parameters	stone wool	slag wool	glass wool
Limiting application temperature, °С	up to 1000	up to 250-300	from -60 to +450
Average fiber diameter, µm	4 to 12	4 to 12	5 to 15
Hygroscopicity of the material for 24 hours (no more) %	0,95	1.9	1.7
causticity	No	Yes	Yes
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m-K)	0,035-0,042	0,46-0,48	0,038 -0,046
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.75 to 95	from 0.75 to 0.82	from 0.8 to 92
The presence of a binder, %	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Emission of harmful substances during combustion	Yes	Yes	Yes
Heat capacity, J/kg*K	1050	1000	1050
Vibration resistance	No	No	No
Elasticity, %	75	there is no data	there is no data
Sintering temperature, °С	600	250-300	450-500
Fiber length, mm	16	16	15-50

stone wool

Stone wool is made from rocks gabbro-basalt groups and marls. This material has a low thermal conductivity, so it perfectly retains heat indoors. The fibrous structure of the insulation, in principle, withstands heating at 900 ÷ 1000 degrees, but at a temperature of 600 degrees the material sinters and loses its heat-insulating properties.

Stone (basalt) wool is the most convenient material to use

A very important quality for the installation of this type of cotton wool is the absence of prickly brittle fibers - the material is practically safe for the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract and eyes, for the skin.

This type of insulation can be called "breathable", so the air in the rooms will not be heavy and stagnant.

Stone wool does not emit toxic substances, therefore it is safe for humans.

It is produced in various forms that are convenient for installation work, and recently a material has appeared that has an additional foil coating, which helps to reflect the heat rising to the ceiling into the room.

glass wool

Glass wool is made from cullet and sand, by melting them at high temperatures, reaching 1500 degrees. As a result of this technological process, fibers up to 50 mm long and 4 ÷ 15 microns thick are obtained, which make the material strong and elastic.

Glass wool - performance is not bad, but extra precautions are required when laying

Installation, carried out in accordance with all the rules, will allow you to save the insulation without loss of quality for many years. Glass wool is not susceptible to damage by fungal formations, rodents do not build nests in it, it has low thermal conductivity and withstands low and high temperatures.

The disadvantages of this type of mineral wool include the fact that its installation is hampered by the fragility of the fibers, which have fairly sharp edges. Their fragments tend to penetrate under the fabric of clothing, stick into the skin, enter the respiratory tract and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore, when starting installation work, it is necessary to protect yourself by putting on protective clothing, which, after the completion of the insulation process, must be packed and disposed of.

slag wool

This type of insulation is made from blast-furnace slag, but is capable of withstanding temperatures up to 300 degrees without loss of quality, while glass and stone wool can withstand higher heat. When this temperature is exceeded, the slag fibers sinter, respectively, losing their insulating functions.

Slag wool - the quality is lower, and during installation, means of individual protection of hands, eyes, and respiratory organs are also required

Slag wool is hygroscopic, and when the humidity in the environment increases, it easily absorbs it, which leads to a decrease in insulation and soundproofing qualities.

Installation of slag must also be carried out very carefully, since its fibers are also splitting and can harm the skin and mucous membranes. Therefore, appropriate work clothing and protective equipment for the eyes and respiratory tract must be prepared before installation.

Styrofoam types

Many owners prefer to save money, and therefore they insulate their houses with the well-known polystyrene foam (more often it is called polystyrene foam). However, before purchasing it, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the characteristics, since the material has an abundance of significant shortcomings.

There are two types of Styrofoam - extruded and regular. Although they are, in principle, made from the same original polymer, they have slightly different characteristics.

regular foam

Ordinary foamed polystyrene (polystyrene) has a rather porous structure, since it consists mainly of air, and only 2–3% is accounted for by the polymer component.

The positive qualities of this type of insulation include:

• The foam plastic has low thermal conductivity, the coefficient of which is only 0.03-0.04 W / m × ° C.
• The material has good soundproofing properties.
• Polyfoam almost does not absorb moisture, which means it is protected from the occurrence of fungus and other forms of microbiological life.
• The insulation is easy to install, as it is easy to process, fit, fasten. In addition, the material is produced in large panels that can immediately cover a large area of ​​the insulated surface.
• Styrofoam is not afraid of exposure to gypsum and lime, cement and salts, as well as water-based coloring compounds.
• The negative qualities of regular and extruded foam are similar enough that they can be combined.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded foam is labeled with the letters EPPS and XPS. It has a denser and more uniform structure, so its thermal conductivity is slightly higher than that of expanded polystyrene. The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

• Very low hygroscopicity, even bordering on hydrophobicity.
• Sufficiently low thermal conductivity of 0.05÷0.07 W/m×°C.
• Ease of laying on interfloor ceilings due to low weight. In addition, most of the produced panels have a special locking part, which makes it possible to easily combine them into a single coating with seams blocked from cold bridges.
• Resistance to deformation - the material is so strong that it is used for underground insulation of foundations or laid under a concrete screed.
• Resistance to chemicals of inorganic origin.
• Durability in operation with proper installation and subsequent lining of the insulation.
• If the extruded polystyrene foam has received good external protection, then it is non-toxic, so how not to decompose and does not emit harmful substances.

The disadvantages of polystyrene foam inherent in both types include:

• Sufficiently high flammability of the material. Both types are labeled G4 or G 3. Often there is no marking on the package giving information about its characteristics, and it is recommended to immediately refuse to purchase such material - it is possible that it has not undergone appropriate processing and may ignite from lower heat than manufactured in factory conditions.
• The material does not like high temperatures - already at + 75 - 80 ° With the onset of thermal deformation is not ruled out.
• When ignited, expanded polystyrene begins to melt, acquires fluidity, thereby spreading fire to materials adjacent to it. This is especially dangerous when mounting it on the ceiling.

• The smoke of burning polystyrene is extremely dangerous not only for health, but also for human life, as it contains highly toxic substances that can cause extensive chemical burns of the respiratory system, lead to damage to the central nervous system.
• After a certain time, low-quality polystyrene foam itself begins to decompose, releasing harmful toxic substances that can penetrate decorative cladding and even through brickwork walls.
• Expanded polystyrene is extremely unstable when exposed to ultraviolet rays, so it cannot be kept for a long time in the open sun or without external decoration.
• This insulation dissolves on contact with organic compounds such as ethyl alcohol, turpentine, gasoline, acetone and others.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is made from clay of fusible rocks - it is molded and fired at very high temperatures, more than 1000 degrees. The main advantage of this insulation is its environmental friendliness, since no foreign impurities are used in its production.

One of the most popular heaters is expanded clay.

Expanded clay is used to insulate various parts of the house, including the ceiling. Often it is used in combination with other insulation materials to enhance the effect of heat preservation and protect residential premises from external noise.

Expanded clay is produced in different fractions - it can be granules with a size of 20 ÷ 40, 10 ÷ 20 mm, finer gravel or even sand. Rejected granules that cracked during firing are usually ground into sand.

In addition to environmental cleanliness, expanded clay has other positive qualities that can become indispensable when insulating the ceiling in a wooden house:

Its complete incombustibility will make the insulation safe, low thermal conductivity and porous structure will create reliable protection against cold and penetration of external noise into the house. Although expanded clay is hygroscopic to a certain extent, it will not absorb moisture unless exposed to spilled water. And this means that even increased atmospheric humidity will not be able to reduce its thermal insulation qualities.

Due to the same qualities, the material is durable, its service life is almost unlimited. And one more important advantage - insects will never settle in this material.

The porous structure makes the insulation light in weight - it is easy to lift it onto the attic floor. In addition, it is extremely easy to install - you just need to sprinkle it on the prepared surface and evenly distribute it over it. The preparation of the floor for backfilling is also simple - it is covered with a vapor barrier film or well coated with clay or lime mortar. When the solution dries, you can start backfilling expanded clay.

If the winter temperatures of the region where the insulated building is located are very low, then mineral wool mats can be additionally laid on the expanded clay between the floor beams.

Video: how to insulate the ceiling on your own

Having completed the installation of the ceiling, and having reliably insulated it, you can proceed to the decorative design of the very front surface of the ceiling.

Decorative ceiling decoration

The wooden ceiling can be decorated with a variety of materials. The finishing process facilitates the pliability of wood - you can easily fix any brackets for installing panels or drywall on it, as well as stuff shingles for applying, for example, a clay layer, and then plaster.

Clapboard lining

Some homeowners prefer to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard in combination with walls. Such cladding can be made of natural wood, or or from polymers or composites - PVC, laminated panels based on fiberboard, etc.

Ceiling sheathing should not be too heavy, so if wooden lining is chosen, then no more than 10 ÷ 15 mm thick, designed specifically for the ceiling. Before installation, it is recommended to cover the panels, and after installation - with water-based varnish or water-based paint.

The plastic lining itself is lightweight, and is designed for ceiling mounting, so it remains to choose only the color of the material.

Laminated panels are also lightweight and will not create problems during installation. They are produced with various patterns that can imitate the textured pattern of wood or stone.

Clapboard made of laminated fiberboard (MDF)

• The installation of these materials occurs in principle according to the same technology. The only question to be solved is how the finishing material will be mounted: directly on the ceiling boards or on a fixed crate.

The latter option is usually chosen in cases where the goal is to additionally or even out its surface.

• The crate can also be mounted in different ways - it is screwed directly to the ceiling surface or lowered by 100 ÷ 150 mm, fixing guides made of beams or metal profiles on hangers to fix drywall.

Parallel guide battens are fixed in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. After completing their installation, they proceed to the installation of the lining.

• On a wooden crate, the finish is fixed with the help of special clamps, which are put on the spikes of the lining, and then attached to the guides with studs or thin self-tapping screws.

• The installation of the lining panels starts from the wall, and it is very important to set the first one as evenly as possible, since both the fit and the appearance of the entire resulting coating depend on it.

• If a metal profile is not used for the crate, but a metal profile, then the panels are attached to it using self-tapping screws screwed through the clamps or directly through the lining spike.

After the completion of the walls and ceiling, at the junction of finishing materials, which will give completeness to the entire sheathing.

Sheathing with sheet material

The sheet material that ennobles the surface of the ceiling includes drywall and plywood (or OSB). They, like the lining, can be fixed to the crate or directly to the false ceiling.

Both plywood and drywall are mounted for additional finishing:

• Plywood is first puttied at the joints - for this a special wood putty is selected (if it is for painting, then it is better -) - and they are allowed to dry. Then primed and coated with water-based paint or varnish.

Sometimes real or false beams are mounted below the plywood ceiling for decorative purposes. For them, light, well-dried wood or hollow polymer elements are selected.

Decorative plastic hollow "bars" for false beams

• Drywall after fixing also puttyed at the joints and in places where self-tapping screws are screwed in, but for this a gypsum-based mixture is used. Then the seams are cleaned, the surface is primed and painted, pasted over with ordinary or liquid wallpaper.

The use of these materials in a suspended structure allows you to make two- and even three-tier ones, and not only with regular rectangular parts, , but also with smooth curved shapes.

Video: how a wooden ceiling is sheathed with drywall

Facing ceiling tiles

• The wooden ceiling is decorated with polystyrene foam tiles, which are glued to a special polymer adhesive, applied dotted along the edges. This type of tiles is very light weight, and they can easily be kept on a flat ceiling.

Installation of plastic tiles on the surface of a plywood ceiling

The slabs are produced in a variety of ways - with a smooth white surface, with a relief pattern or applied to a texture that imitates one or another material (wood or finishing stone), and can also have a relief that repeats the ceiling stucco molding.

Video, finishing the ceiling with polystyrene foam tiles

• In addition, ceiling tiles are made of PVC - they are also mounted on polymer glue. This finish is also small in weight and easy to install.
• Wooden finishing panels are quite expensive. But if it is they who are able to transform the interior, then it is worth installing them, especially since options with a variety of embossed patterns and shades are on sale. Wooden plates are fixed with self-tapping screws, the head of which is sunk into the thickness of the material, and the holes are then sealed with masking chopsticks, matched by color.

Wooden decorative panels give the ceiling an exceptionally "rich" look.

Today, there are no particular problems with the acquisition of any vending material for finishing the ceiling of a wooden house. It is important to make it right sketch of the interior I would like to receive, designate on it where and what finishing material will be located. Then, it remains to visit a specialized store, take an interest in the assortment and pick up everything, based on a project drawn up by oneself. After that, you can proceed to, which will allow you to hide small flaws made during the installation of the ceiling structure itself.

Any building consists of certain parts, foundation, walls, floor, ceiling. Together they form the building itself. The topic of today's our article is the draft ceiling.

Draft ceiling device

First you need to decide on the very concept of a draft ceiling and in its device. Let's make a reservation right away: the draft ceiling overlap is different for the draft ceiling. For example, in a building that uses concrete slabs as a ceiling, it is different from how the draft ceiling is arranged in a wooden house.

Our reference - A rough ceiling is a ceiling arranged by builders during the construction of a building.

Concrete floor

If concrete slabs are used to cover the building, then the main task in finishing the ceiling will be to create an outer, decorative layer.

As a rule, it performs two functions at once:

1. Levels an existing slab.
2. It plays the role of an aesthetic element.

Our reference: In some situations, a draft concrete floor requires thermal insulation. In this case, if it is not possible to install an external heat-insulating layer, a suspended ceiling with internal placement is arranged.

wooden floor

If we consider a draft ceiling, arranged in a wooden or any other house in which the floors have a beam structure, then the picture is somewhat different here.

• Such an overlap is made using a rectangular beam, a thick board laid on an edge, a wooden (or metal) I-beam.
• Therefore, the installation of a draft ceiling in such buildings is the main component.
• In other words, with its help, the very surface of the ceiling is formed, on top of which, subsequently, finishing will be carried out.

If you are wondering how to make a draft ceiling in your house, it is important to understand for yourself what you want to get in the end. Your costs for creating such a ceiling will directly depend on this. To make it clearer what we mean, let's analyze this issue with a specific example.

We have a two-story wooden house. Wooden logs are used as a ceiling. We need to install the draft ceiling on the interfloor ceiling.

Many do the following:

• A vapor barrier is shot from below to the beams.
• On top of it, an unedged board is stuffed with a certain step.
• Then thermal insulation is laid on top, after which the floors of the second floor are arranged using edged boards.
• From below, with the help of bars, alignment is made, and a decorative layer is arranged.

At first glance, everything is correct. Let's ask ourselves, what was each material used for?

Each layer has its own role

So, we have an overlap between two heated rooms.

Is a heater always necessary?

Why do you need a heat-insulating layer in the interfloor beam ceiling:

• If they wanted to reduce the noise between the two rooms, then this was done in vain.
• The wooden floor, arranged on the second floor, in itself reduces the noise level quite well.
• The decorative layer also contributes to noise isolation. The wooden structure is arranged in such a way that the ordinary human voice is well absorbed by the very structure of the tree.
• If you expected to reduce the noise from the play of small children on the second floor - this is also completely in vain. These are just extra costs.

• Sharp blows to the tree are well transmitted to the entire structure. And since your building is nothing more than one wooden structure, sound vibrations will pass not only through, but also along the walls.
• Therefore, even if you lay at least a meter of heat insulator, the jumps of your children will still be heard on the lower floor.
• In this case, it could have been completely different. After you arranged the floors of the second floor, you could simply level with a wooden beam installed transversely to the joists. It will later be possible to install a decorative coating on it.

What about vapor barrier?

Many will ask the question: do I need a vapor barrier? It generates another question: - why are you arranging it? Vapor barrier is also needed not always and everywhere.

By having two heated rooms with relatively the same temperature conditions, you are spared from the condensate arising from the temperature difference. In this case, there is a threat of formation of condensate arising from human activity.

Everything seems to be correct, but let's understand. In this situation, the formation of condensate is minimized.

Note: Even if a small amount of condensation collects on the vapor barrier inside the ceiling, where will it go? It will spread to wooden structures in contact with the vapor barrier, which will eventually lead to rotting and mold formation (read more), major repairs cannot be avoided.

What should be done in this case?

Tip: Before installation (and not after it), it is simply necessary to treat wooden structures with protective impregnations. Then they will not be afraid of moisture, and even more so minimal condensate, which, most likely, will not be in ordinary living rooms.

If there is an unheated room above the ceiling

In this case, a vapor barrier device becomes completely superfluous for overlapping.

In this example, using vapor barrier, it becomes clear that proper planning and understanding of what we want to get from a particular structure allows us to complete the work much faster, while spending a minimum of money.

Another thing is when a draft ceiling is arranged between the heated and cold rooms. But not everything is simple here either. After all, the ceiling in one room can simultaneously play the role of a floor in another, or not be a floor at all, and this is very important.

First of all, you need to pay special attention to the strength of the coating, its ability to withstand a certain load, and only secondarily everything else.

The installation principle can be fundamentally different in both cases, since in one you will have access to both sides of your ceiling, and in the other it is limited to only one.

Attic ceiling

So, we are faced with the task of arranging the ceiling in the attic room. It has floor joists and a roof roof. In this case, it becomes clear that access to the ceiling can only be made from the side of the room.

• In this case, the rafters act as overlapping lags. Laying the roof, the builders without fail installed the crate. Our task is to arrange a draft ceiling and thermal insulation.
• The first step is to install thermal insulation. It is laid between the rafters. Thermal insulation should enter between the rafters with some effort.
• The thermal insulation is laid, now it is the turn of the vapor barrier - in this case it is necessary. The film is attached to the crate using a construction stapler, and is additionally fixed with elements of the counter-lattice, on which the sheathing material will be mounted.

Finishes

When everything is ready, you can mount the draft ceiling. As a rule, the rafters are installed fairly evenly and such a ceiling does not require additional alignment. You can arrange it in several ways, it all depends on the coating that will be used as a decorative layer.

Plaster or cladding: which is better

If you plan to arrange a plaster coating, which is extremely rare in the attic, the draft ceiling is mounted from an unedged board. Boards are nailed as densely as possible to each other. In the future, a reinforcing metal mesh is attached to them with the help of mounting brackets or nails. Now the surface can be successfully plastered.

But why such difficulties, if it is much easier to make plasterboard sheathing?

• If you want to use drywall or some other sheet material as a coating, you can use a small section beam instead of a board, or a metal profile for plasterboard.
• Sometimes, after a vapor barrier has been installed, a non-edged board mounted with a certain step is used to install a draft ceiling.
• After that, using a beam, the surface is leveled and prepared for the installation of the next layer.

We have nothing against such a device, but in this case, if you plan to level with a bar, the use of an unedged board is not justified.

Ceiling - the boundary of rooms with different temperature conditions

We considered the issue in which the coating is used only as a ceiling and no more.

But if you needed to arrange a ceiling between the room and the unheated attic, the best option would be to install it as follows. From below, on the bearing logs, with the help of a stapler, a vapor barrier is shot. Further, a beam is attached from below, while it is installed with a certain step. The beam in this case serves as a bearing base for thermal insulation.

Our reference - If you are planning a plaster coating, instead of a beam, you must use an unedged board on which a layer of mortar will be laid. A metal mesh is also needed in this case.

Draft ceiling at home: how to work with boards

• Further, thermal insulation is laid on top between the lags. To protect it from dust and dirt, a film is laid on top. The cheapest option would be to use polyethylene.
• After that, a layer consisting of unedged boards is applied on top. It, in turn, protects the thermal insulation from bursting when exposed to a load from above. Now you can install a decorative layer - what it consists of is up to you.
• We repeat, if it is plaster, instead of timber, you must use an unedged board. It is nailed tightly, and a reinforcing mesh is fixed on it. Everything can be plastered.

Some "craftsmen" use this technique for better thermal insulation. After the main thermal insulation is laid, they put a layer of sawdust on top of it.

Thus, wanting to achieve maximum thermal insulation at the lowest possible price. Let's face it, this is complete incompetence.

Note: Sawdust is a flammable material. The device of such thermal insulation is comparable to laying a time bomb in your own house. If you use sawdust, then you should fill them with liquid cement mortar. But then the design increases in price, and loses its meaning - it becomes easier to use normal insulation.

Thermal insulation boards are made from materials that resist high temperatures well and do not support combustion by themselves. If necessary, you can choose the material of the desired thickness.

Types and methods of filing

How and with what the filing of the draft ceiling is performed is one of the most frequently asked questions. But before taking action, carefully consider what it serves and what it does, and what specific functions it performs.

Question: Many people are interested: is it possible to attach sheets directly to the beams when sheathing with drywall - without filing with an edged or unedged board?

Answer: It is possible, but there is a small nuance in this. As a rule, floor beams have an uneven bend, so fixing plasterboard sheets directly to them will cause a lot of trouble, and the ceiling will turn out to be not quite even.

• Using the board in this case is an extra waste of money and time. What needs to be done is to provide thermal insulation support. To do this, it is enough to nail the bar with the required step and then use the metal profile for the plasterboard.
• If filing with a board is still done, then the fastening of the metal profile should be carried out on hangers, as in the photo.

• The metal profile is easy to level, the use of suspensions will ensure the desired horizontal surface and level compliance.
• Of course, it is possible to fix the gypsum board on the beam supporting thermal insulation, but in this case it must be carefully leveled, and it must be even and of good quality. It's a difficult question.
• A tree tends to change its configuration over the years, your ceiling can simply lead. Commercially available lumber in most cases has insufficient drying, and deformation is provided to them.
• If inside the structure deviations of a few millimeters are not of great importance, then for a GKL coating this is a disadvantage, and can spoil the whole appearance.

If you understand for yourself that the additional use of various materials does not always contribute to a high-quality ceiling covering. And sometimes it just leads to unnecessary costs. The filing of the draft ceiling can turn out not only to be of better quality, but also to be much cheaper.

The role of the draft ceiling is to serve as a reliable basis for the installation of subsequent layers of decoration. If in houses made of concrete or brick it is performed by floor slabs, then in buildings made of wood between floors there are beams to which the draft ceiling is attached. In order to make it, it will not take a lot of time, effort and money. For this, basic woodworking skills, minimal skill and a set of elementary tools will be more than enough.

The device of interfloor overlapping

In order to make a draft ceiling of high quality, it is important to understand how the interfloor ceiling is arranged in a wooden house as a whole. It consists of several layers, each of which must perform a specific role. If all the elements are assembled correctly, the overlap will be reliable and will last for many years.

In the basic version, it can be made in 5 layers.

Table. Layers of interfloor overlapping in a wooden house.

Layer	purpose
	If there is another floor on top, you will need to lay the floor for it. The plank floor can be rough, for finishing, it can also be used as a finishing option.
	Many neglect this layer, but it is better to do it in order to get a really high-quality result - an interfloor overlap made to last.
	Needed to keep the room warm. This is especially important if there is a roof or unheated attic on top.
	Waterproofing is necessary to protect the tree from destruction by moisture.
	Finishing is attached to the draft ceiling. It also serves as a support for waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier layer.

As for the final finish of the ceiling, there are various options. Perhaps the most popular of these is plasterboard ceiling finish. They need to be attached to a metal frame. This is a very simple, inexpensive and practical finishing option that will look great if done right.

In order to build a subfloor, you first need to attach boards to the supporting beams, then lay insulation and waterproofing, and after that it remains only to finish the ceiling with drywall or any other material. When the ceiling is ready, you can start laying the floor on the floor above - for this, you will need to lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation and lay boards on top of it.

At the same time, many do not finish the ceiling after attaching the boards, that is, they use them as a material for finishing - the ceiling of the boards in a wooden house also looks very good, spectacular and harmonious.

Necessary tools and materials

For the construction of a draft ceiling, a board of 25 mm is suitable. You can fasten it with nails "sideways" or with the help of self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws 45-55 mm are suitable for this purpose, they will securely hold the entire structure. Since the board will not be visible under the ceiling finish, its appearance is not important, and this material can be saved. The main thing is that it be even and strong. If the board will be located on top of the beams, cranial bars will also be needed (more on this below).

Another option is to use any sufficiently strong plywood sheets. To fix them, you need slats or bars to create a frame.

A good option for insulation is 50% mineral wool and 50% sawdust: sawdust is poured first, and mineral wool is placed on top of them. Such a "sandwich" perfectly retains heat. However, you can choose any other materials to your taste and wallet - today there are many different heaters for residential premises on sale.

Another option is to use plywood for the draft ceiling. For its fastening it is necessary to build a special crate; for this purpose, you can use slats or bars. The board in this regard is more convenient - it is attached directly to the beams, so you do not have to spend time, money and effort on the construction of the crate.

From the tools you need a minimum set:

• saw or jigsaw;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• stapler.

How to make a draft ceiling from boards on wooden beams

The construction of a wooden draft ceiling is carried out in two stages:

• the first step is to fix the boards on the logs - as mentioned above, they can be nailed or screwed onto self-tapping screws;
• then, on top of the boards, it is necessary to put insulation and waterproofing.

Especially important cut all the boards strictly to the desired size so that there are no unnecessary gaps and cracks in the ceiling, and this stage of work must be approached very carefully. A serious approach will make it possible to make a really high-quality ceiling, with which there will be no problems for a long time.

A draft ceiling made of boards that are located below the lags is a simple and practical option. Its construction takes a minimum of time, so anyone can handle it. The disadvantage of this design is that the beams will be covered by the ceiling, and it will not be possible to get to them easily and quickly if necessary. However, there is another, more complex option for attaching boards.

In this case, they are located on top of the beams:

• first, it is necessary to fix the cranial bars on the logs;
• then boards are laid on them;
• then you need to lay the thermal insulation and the vapor barrier layer, they can be placed both above the boards and under them.

This option is often used if the beams will be used as a decorative element, that is, they will remain in sight when the construction of the intermediate floor is completed. This approach allows you to create a rather severe, textured interior that will look very impressive and stylish.

How to make a plywood draft ceiling

In order to build a ceiling from plywood, it is necessary to properly assemble the crate, and then fix the plywood on it. As in the case of boards, care must be taken to ensure that its sheets fit snugly against each other and there are no gaps between them.

Work is carried out in the following order:

• the first step is to shoot a vapor barrier membrane to the lags;
• since the vapor barrier membrane will not withstand the insulation layer, after laying it, you need to make a frame that will simultaneously perform this task and serve as the basis for attaching the plywood itself;
• sheets of plywood are attached to the resulting crate;
• after that, a heater is laid on top.

The last two steps can also be done in reverse order.

Further finishing

After the rough floor is ready, you can make a fine finish. As noted above, for this it is enough to build a metal frame and fix drywall on it. It is also necessary to lay a vapor barrier over the insulation and lay the floor boards of the upper floor, and the interfloor overlap will be fully completed. In the event that there is no floor on top - that is, if there is not another floor on top - you can put waterproofing on top of the insulation and finish the work on this.

How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling?

The strength of the entire structure depends on how competently the rough ceiling is arranged, so work must be approached thoroughly. Haste is not allowed here, especially if you have little experience in this matter, especially if you are building a ceiling in a wooden house for the first time. By approaching the matter seriously, you will get an excellent result, and your new ceiling will delight you for many years.

Video - Do-it-yourself draft ceiling on wooden beams

The appearance of any room largely depends on how the ceiling looks. As for the private, the quality of rough work is of great importance in it. Let's talk about such a variant of finishing work as a rough ceiling on wooden beams.

Houses with wooden floors

The draft ceiling slab differs depending on the structure of the building. A draft ceiling is a ceiling erected during the construction of a house.

In a wooden private house, the draft floor has the following parameters:

• the basis of the floor are wooden beams;
• the component of the ceiling surface is the design of the draft ceiling;
• with the help of a draft ceiling, a ceiling surface is constructed, then finishing work is performed on top.

Interior finishing work usually begins with the arrangement of the ceiling. Therefore, an important task is the question of how to hem the draft ceiling in a private house. You can sheathe the ceiling surface with drywall, or mount a tension structure. Another option for ceiling sheathing is OSB boards.

Materials for hemming the ceiling surface

Depending on how to sheathe the draft ceiling in a private house, the general appearance of the room will depend. You can choose between the following materials:

• drywall. The material is attached to the draft ceiling with an adhesive, or mounted to the frame. If the installation takes place in a room with high humidity, then you need to select a moisture-resistant material;
• plastic panels. The panels are glued with liquid nails to the timber structure;
• lining made of wood. Ecological, safe material with a long service life. Wooden slats are mounted on the crate or to a solid base. For fastening, use self-tapping screws or nails with a missing hat;
• MDF panels. The material can imitate wood, natural stones, plants. The panels are fixed with the help of special fasteners that press the slats to the base or crate;
• plywood sheets, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution. After installation, it is necessary to seal the seams, then paint;
• plastic siding. Such material is used for cladding bathrooms, balconies, terraces.

What material to choose for sheathing the rough ceiling depends on the purpose of the room in which the repair work is carried out, as well as on the budget.

Advantages and disadvantages of OSB

OSB boards (oriented strand board) for hemming the draft ceiling are made from pressed wood shavings (3-4 layers). The layers are held together with boric acid, synthetic wax and various resins. In order for the sheets to be strong, in the middle layer the chips are located across, and in the extreme layers - along the sheet.

The advantages of facing the rough coating of the OSB ceiling are as follows:

• low cost;
• moisture resistant, due to its structure;
• simple installation, which you can handle yourself;
• long service life;
• the material is not afraid of insects;
• no preliminary surface preparation with putty is required;
• during installation, you can immediately insulate the structure.

There are few cons, but they are still there:

• the composition of the adhesive base includes phenol, which is toxic to humans;
• plates are easily deformed;
• exposed to high temperatures;
• insufficient vapor permeability.

When the disadvantages and advantages of the finishing coating are known, you can find out how to make a draft ceiling in a country cottage.

The cost of work

Prices for installing OSB on the ceiling are based on the type and quantity of work performed. Soda may include the following preparatory work:

1. dismantling of the old coating
2. markup;
3. calculation of the height of the ceiling;
4. insulation installation;
5. cladding with tiles.

The price of work on the draft ceiling is usually indicated in square meters. The table below shows approximate prices for Moscow and the region:

Type of work	unit of measurement	Cost, rub.)
Removing putty and paint	m2	300
Removing plaster	-	300
Dismantling the crate	-	2000
Sawing OSB boards (18 mm)	-	1000
Antiseptic treatment	-	200
Draft ceiling device (unplaned board)	-	200
Warming with mineral wool	-	60
Steam and waterproofing	-	60
Mounting the frame under a metal profile or wooden beam	-	3500
Scheme of fixing OSB boards	-	From 4500
Markup for installing OSB sheets	-	200-400
OSB plate installation	-	600-3000

Specialists will help to perform the necessary calculations, determine the required number of sheets of OSB boards, and make accurate measurements of the room. Prices for construction and repair work from different companies, of course, vary. It depends on the method of installation of finishing materials, on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling covering, on the thickness of the plates.

After reviewing the average cost, you can make a choice - entrust the repair work to specialists or install the rough ceiling coating yourself.

The sequence of preparatory activities

Sheathing of the draft ceiling needs preliminary preparation, performed in the following sequence:

1. you need to free, as far as possible, the room from furniture, or cover it with covers;
2. turn off lighting fixtures, isolate electrical wiring;
3. the old layer of plaster is completely knocked off the ceiling;
4. the old lathing is dismantled, and with it the insulation is removed;
5. wooden beams should be cleaned of accumulated debris, remove mold. It is advisable to treat the beams with an antiseptic solution after cleaning.

Before installing a rough ceiling covering, it is necessary to check the condition of the electrical wiring. The ideal option is to replace it with a new one.

The working surface is prepared and you can proceed to the main stage of work.

Installation work

Check out how the installation of a draft ceiling on wooden beams is carried out in the video below. The workflow consists of the following steps:

• waterproofing is done. A membrane film is laid between the wooden beams. If visible gaps form between the film strips, then they must be sealed with adhesive tape;
• insulation (polystyrene or basalt wool) is placed between the beams. It is necessary to lay the insulation in such a way as to exclude the presence of cracks;
• a vapor-tight material is mounted on top of the insulation. Staples are used for fastening to the film;
• raw boards are fixed on wooden beams.

This type of installation activities is carried out in a private wooden house on wooden floors.

Installation on reinforced concrete slabs

If it is necessary to mount a rough coating on a reinforced concrete slab, then the following repair measures are carried out:

1. first, as for actions with wooden beams, a work surface is prepared. It is necessary to clean it from the previous coating - wallpaper, plaster, tiles;
2. joints between the ceiling ceilings are cleared and sealed with cement mortar;
3. All cracks are sealed with sealant. You can use mounting foam for this purpose;
4. the ceiling space must be covered with a primer layer.

The primer layer should dry completely, then you need to apply 2 more of the same layers. Each layer dries for about a day.

Concrete slabs are never perfect. Over time, they can become deformed, so preparatory work is important.

The preparatory activities are completed, consider how to make a draft ceiling in a private house on a concrete slab:

1. beacons are installed (dowels made of plastic or self-tapping screws), using a level;
2. a layer of starting plaster is laid with a spatula;
3. a layer of liquid primer is applied on top.

Upon completion of the work on the rough ceiling, you can (if necessary) start painting the ceiling or laying tiles.

In the process of installing a rough ceiling covering, there are some subtleties, the knowledge of which allows you to save materials and do the job efficiently:

• when mounting with boards, it is important to correctly calculate the dimensions of the elements so that as little waste as possible remains;
• if the length of the board is longer than necessary, then the slats are not fixed to the last beam, if less, they are cut to the length of the last beam. It must be taken into account that the slats can be fixed from the back of the beam;
• wooden slats are considered the best option, because they are mounted much faster than other material;
• vapor barrier materials are laid taking into account how the room will be used. The material is laid around the entire perimeter of the ceiling surface. With the help of such a layer, the wooden ceiling will not rot and mold.

If it is not possible to mount thermal insulation on a concrete floor, then a suspended frame structure is first performed.

After the long-awaited timber dwelling is built, it remains to complete the finishing work inside and outside the house. Most often, interior decoration is chosen with special care. However, before finishing the device, it is necessary to properly arrange the main structural elements of the building, which include the rough ceiling along wooden beams.

Peculiarities

The basis of the draft ceiling, first of all, must be securely fixed. Various materials can be used to equip the draft structure, excluding plastic, chipboard, plywood sheets and materials containing resins.

It will not be difficult to arrange a rough ceiling with your own hands: it will only require care, basic woodworking skills and the necessary tools.

How to choose the right material for the draft ceiling

The draft ceiling vault in a wooden house is an integral part of the structure, forming the floor surface that makes up the ceiling base. It is on it that the finishing trim is subsequently mounted. The draft base is formed with the help of ceiling boards laid on the load-bearing floor beams.

You can hem the base using a variety of methods, as wooden beams can coexist with many materials.

Ceilings with wooden floors are often arranged in wooden dwellings - in them the wood flooring coexists most harmoniously. In addition, structural beams are often used as an element of decor, highlighting them, for example, with a contrasting color.

A sheathing board is often used for filing a rough base, which has high functional and aesthetic characteristics. Finishing with a planed board is a little less common - this option will definitely bring comfort to the interior, besides, natural wood has its own unique aroma - it brings a piece of nature into the atmosphere of the home.

Hemming the base is quite simple - this can be done with the help of craftsmen, and, with due effort, with your own hands. Before filing, the base must be insulated. The most popular type of insulation for ceilings is mineral wool. It should be remembered that the insulation layer necessarily needs a waterproofing layer - otherwise the insulation will quickly lose its functional properties.

In order to hem the draft ceiling, You must select a material that meets the following parameters:

• High moisture resistance;
• Resistance to negative temperatures (in case the dwelling will be operated seasonally);
• Resistant to temperature fluctuations.

For hemming the base in rooms with high humidity, plastic panels are most suitable, as they repel moisture, do not rot and are resistant to condensation.

The most common way of filing the ceiling base is boards. Drywall is less popular, besides, it is not used on loggias, terraces and gazebos. It is also necessary to carefully use drywall sheets in rooms with a high level of humidity - in this case it is better to choose varieties that are resistant to moisture.

Before mounting the GKL on the base, it is necessary to build a special metal frame, to which the sheets will subsequently be attached. Plasterboard filing is able to remove all irregularities and defects in the base, however, it is not recommended to carry out such a finish within 2 years from the end of the construction of the dwelling, since the house often shrinks, and the slabs can behave in an unpredictable way.

Plastic filing of the draft ceiling on wooden beams is a lightweight and easy-to-install material. Among other things, plastic filing has a large selection in terms of decorative properties. Long service life is another indisputable advantage of plastic. The gap between the ceiling finish and the walls can be masked using special ceiling moldings.

Draft ceiling device

If you plan to arrange a rough ceiling with your own hands, you must first take care of having all the necessary tools. This includes wood preservative, construction adhesive, flame retardant compound, finishing material, etc.

When it comes to choosing floor beams for the base, it is necessary to carefully check the raw materials for defects, mold and mildew. If defects or mold are found after purchase, it is necessary to treat the wood with an antiseptic solution, and putty chips and cracks.

In a wooden house, a draft ceiling can be made even on your own. To equip it, you need to carry out the following stages of installation work:

• First of all, it is necessary to close the beam structures from the side of the room with glassine or polyethylene film to create a vapor barrier. Fixing the material can be done using a construction stapler;
• After the first step, the beams must be hemmed with any material that is suitable for this purpose. Often, an edged board is used for filing beams;
• Further, a heat-insulating layer is laid between the supporting beams, which will prevent heat from being removed from the room. Most often, such material is foam, expanded clay or mineral wool;
• After laying the insulation layer, you need to put a layer of vapor barrier again. There are many varieties of materials for such purposes, and the most popular is polyethylene. However, it should be noted that membrane vapor barriers do their job much better, moreover, they do not interfere with natural air exchange.

1. The final stage in the arrangement of the draft base is the installation of a log along the floor beams, on which a layer of the subfloor will subsequently be laid.

It should be noted that the formation of the rough floor should be carried out taking into account the purpose of the attic, since there are some design differences when arranging a residential attic and non-residential space:

For an attic that is not planned to be made into a living space, it is worth adding aluminum foil to the floor layer - this method will reduce heat loss in the house. Waterproofing for the cold variety of the attic is a must. It can be done using ordinary polyethylene;

When arranging a residential attic, a gasket for sound insulation is added to the subfloor layer. The material is usually mineral wool or sawdust.

An important point - the boards for filing the draft ceiling are fixed on the logs with long nails, which are hammered into the spacer. Boards should be laid close to each other, leaving no large gaps.

Final Features

The condition of the ceiling is directly related to the microclimate of the room. The aesthetics of the finishing coating of the ceiling directly depends on the arrangement of the rough base. If it is done correctly, the room will be cozy and warm due to good heat and sound insulation. At the same time, the vapor barrier layer plays an equally important role - it helps to maintain the quality of thermal insulation, which directly affects the performance of the entire dwelling as a whole.

Video: draft ceiling