The community plans to post detailed tips for caring for both rare orchids (label "rare orchids"), and for those often found on sale (label "common orchids"); thematic posts on the topic of fertilizers, transplants, diseases, lack of flowering, dormant periods, care errors and much more (labeled "general care tips" or "care tips").
For the convenience of searching with the inevitable growth of records, I am making a CONVENIENT LIST OF LINKS here (below). Information in the community will be mostly exclusive and copyright
Therefore, we kindly ask you to indicate authorship or make a link when borrowing materials.

What are members doing in the community? - brag about our achievements, post photos, share valuable experience, ask for advice, tell interesting stories, and communicate in every possible way.

CHARTER AND COMMUNITY RULES

Point 2
A priori, it is unacceptable in any way to claim or try to influence the change in the main goal of the community, which has its own special and purely educational mission for those who want to hear and read. Please do not treat the community as a 24/7 emergency room, plant emergency room, and quick service orchid advisory office for everyone. This community has never had such goals and never will. ((see paragraph 1)

Point 3
It is unacceptable to try to defend "one's own opinion" or actively "teach" if you have a completely different personal view of orchid culture than that promoted by this community, and you think that "everything is completely wrong" here. To think so is your own business, but if you want to "wrestle" - there are completely different places for this than a resource with its own well-established concept. You can go to the forum. Or you can create your own community and teach there how "wrong" our community is. The choice is huge. So what did you forget exactly here, where you don't like it so much? Ask yourself this question when you feel like being a critic. After all, even critics do not write their reviews directly on the books of the authors.
Particularly active and obsessive moho-lovers, as well as people who are disrespectful to the participants and the creator of this community, as well as to their work, especially when direct or slightly veiled insults are allowed, will face an eternal ban. We value not only our time, but also our nerves. I remind you that the organizer of the community is also a living person, and not just you.

The community and its host are exclusively charitable activities here (when they can and how they can), we do not have real "sponsors" and do not conduct commercial activities to constantly support the community and work in it. Therefore, putting forward your own "requirements for quality service", as to some service "09" (where "consultants" are still paid a salary) is simply ugly. And it's not fair. Be satisfied with what they are ready to give you and they give you completely free of charge - "within the framework" of the community's charter, or according to the availability of free time. Remember that there is no one here who is "simply obliged" to solve your particular problem just because you asked for it. Often this is technically impossible - only because the "chief consultant" has only two hands, one head, and there is by no means a lot of free time.
If your requests and needs still exceed the above, be prepared for reciprocal gratitude for the work and the time spent personally on you (“well, thanks, I went” - it doesn’t count). To do this, you need to send your question-request privately and declare your readiness to thank for the work.
If this shocked you, let me tell you that you, too, do not start literally every day with many hours of baking free pies for all the hungry, do you? Why should someone else do it for you?
Once again I remind you that I am also a living person, and not just you.
In the end - there are forums where they will pay you (they can afford it "quantitatively") - and increased attention, and completely free of charge will fill up with a bunch of opinions, from which you yourself can always choose the one you like best ;-)

Item 5 (about posts and questions - the longest)

5.1) When creating your post in the community - remember the above, otherwise the post will be rejected. Having your "burning question" - do not immediately try to go on a "frontal attack" by simply making a post about it. Take the time to study existing materials - and most likely - you will find the answer for sure. If you don't have the time/desire/zeal, etc., to study the materials, but you want to be "quick" and relaxed, then these are YOUR PROBLEMS. Do not think - that here people just literally have nothing to do, while you personally "just sew up". Not respecting the time of others - do not expect respect for the "shortcomings" of your time.

5.2) If you don't know how to use tags (tags on the right) and search on LiveJournal (box on the top right), then learn! If, having studied the materials on the topic - you still did not find the answer - write. But always remember that the moderator is not a fool, and not a senile - and he remembers very well - and what materials are in bulk in the community, and what are not there. Therefore, if you write "I searched, but did not find how to fertilize my phalaenopsis" - then do not be surprised if the post is rejected without explanation.

5.3) Also - before writing a separate post - think again:
Perhaps your question can be asked in the comments in any suitable topic, and not make a whole garden out of this, in order to eventually get an explanation of what is happening in a couple of lines. Regardless of the "form" of the question (post or comment), the same rules apply to it as described above. If the answer to your question has already been covered many times and from all sides in the community materials, but you have no time or are just too lazy to look for it, then it may “hang” in the comments without an answer. Unless suddenly someone kindly "treats" you with a link where "the owl is explained." Or maybe not.

5.4) No need to be afraid in advance. Serious, thoughtful, interesting (and not many times overused) posts and questions - of course, there will always be a green light. If you yourself think that your question is good, and for sure - little or nothing has been discussed anywhere else - feel free to write! If so, the moderator will appreciate it. If not, it will not beat, but silently press the "delete" button :-))

5.5) Posts "with blooms" will only be accepted if this bloom is yours, inside and out, and / or you can tell us interesting details about it. Or does this flowering clearly illustrate something (for example, species cattleyas bloomed beautifully without roots and watering, since there was nothing to water, it was bought in a terrible state, etc.)
We will be especially glad to bloom, in which some materials of our community helped in one way or another. And then even a photo taken with a soap box of a seemingly modest flowering will be dearer to us here than all the glamorous lush clusters, behind which there was no battle, no labor, no nerves.
And as follows from the above - even the most beautiful photos, but from the series "here, just from the store" - are of little interest to this community. An exception can be made in this case - only for really highly artistic masterful shots - out of respect for Art.

5.6) All posts should be provided with "cleaning under the cut", and not fall out with a long and even very long - "footcloth" in half a page. If you don't know how to do it - learn! If desired, it is not at all difficult and detailed "instructions" are in the LiveJournal service itself. Posts not provided with a "cut" and even without a promise to correct the post after it is posted will be automatically rejected. It is possible to edit the post after posting - by writing about this desire at the end of the post. If at the end of the day - the post will not be brought into proper form - it will be deleted without warning.

Item 6
All these rules and restrictions apply ONLY to the above community in LiveJournal
Wanting more freedom and more fellowship - WELCOME TO OUR NEW SITE AND FORUM - "ORCHID CARE LUX"!

Anjoy, welcome to freer pastures adapted to strong information loads! :-)
But take pity on the poor LJ-shek, let's leave it as a somewhat intimate and informative "book", because it is not designed for "avalanches" and can simply crack from trying to shove the unimaginable into it :-))

ORCHIDS (care)______________GENERAL CARE TIPS FOR ALL ORCHIDS
Bulbophyllum *******************
Wanda ******************************* We grow orchid "baby" and "kids"
Grammatophyllum **************** Everything is not so simple: Learning to distinguish dead roots from living ones
Dendrobium Nobile ************* Fertilization rules for all orchids. Fertilizers for orchids
Dendrobium phalaenopsis ******** How to determine by the behavior of the visible part of the roots - are we watering correctly?
Dracula ***************************

Growing orchids

Growing at home

Windowsill- for Phalaenopsis it is better to choose western, northeastern, eastern with shading or in the second row, northern. On the south side, shading is required or placed next to the window on a table. If direct sunlight hits the plant, the leaves can get burned (light brown, dark brown spots, depressions).

Temperatures- flowering lasts longer with light shade and a temperature of + 18-25 ° C. Typical temperature range: +18–25°C. A short-term increase in temperature in warm weather up to 35 ° C is allowed. At high temperatures for a long time, Phalaenopsis can drop flowers, and leaves lose turgor.
In the cold season - a short-term decrease to + 12 ° С is permissible. The usual temperature is +15–25°С.

Humidity– normal humidity is 30–40%. Excessive humidity without ventilation can cause Phalaenopsis leaf spots and root rot. Constantly low humidity of 20 - 25% can lead to loss of leaf turgor and dropping of flowers. To increase the humidity, you can put the plant on a tray with water.

Watering Phalaenopsis

Water after the substrate is completely dry, but do not allow the plant to be in a dry state for a long time. In a transparent pot, the need for watering can be determined by the lack of moisture on the walls of the pot, as well as by the roots, which become light. The roots of Phalaenopsis, saturated with moisture, are bright green in color. In a plastic opaque pot, as well as in a clay pot, you can scrape the substrate with your finger and determine whether the substrate is wet or not. No need to rely on the drying of the substrate from above. At the bottom of the pot, it can be quite wet. Can be determined by weight - the pot is light if the substrate is dry. It is usually watered over the substrate or by immersion in a container of water. It is not recommended to water the leaves. If the water is of insufficient quality, spots may appear on the leaves. Once a month, it is necessary to clean the orchid - arrange watering under a shower or tap. After watering, it is advisable to wipe the leaves dry. Watering the substrate under the tap helps to cleanse it. With excessive watering, and especially at low temperatures, dark brown spots may appear on the leaves. In addition, the roots can rot, as well as the growth point. In the case of the death of the roots, the leaves lose turgor, and the plant will recover for a long time. In case of decay of the growing point, loss of leaves, a side shoot may appear.

Fertilizer

At home on the windowsill, it is recommended to feed the orchid through watering during the growth period. Fertilizer Kemira Lux is perfect. Overfed plants often crack leaves.

Bloom

To initiate flowering, Phalaenopsis can be placed in a cooler location and reduced watering by spraying only the substrate and watering occasionally. Flowering at optimal temperatures can last up to 6 months. To prolong flowering when watering, you can spray the peduncle with warm water. If it is warm, diffused light and humid, the peduncle continues to grow, forming more and more new buds. After the end of flowering, the orchid peduncle does not need to be cut off. The plant itself decides whether it will bloom from the same peduncle or not. You can cut off the peduncle only when it is completely dry. Currently, in modern hybrid Phalaenopsis, the peduncle tends to branch. Therefore, the same peduncle can grow into a small tree.
Master class "Pollination of Phalaenopsis": , .

Root Care

Phalaenopsis aerial roots located on top of the substrate do not need to be stuffed into a pot. If part of the root dies off, the dry, browned part must be cut off to a healthy, green part. The death of old roots is a natural process. As the plant grows, it puts out new roots. With the loss of roots, the leaves usually lose turgor, become flabby, hang down.

leaf care

The leaves must be wiped and kept clean, as in monopodial plants this is the most important part. In home culture, Phalaenopsis often retains a large number of leaves and can reach 50-70 cm in length, hanging down. The roots appear on the plant between the leaves. When the former lower leaves die off and the trunk becomes bare, it is necessary to cut off this part to healthy new lower leaves and roots. The plant calmly tolerates this operation and continues to grow further.

Orchid transplant

If you bought a healthy flowering plant, then there is no need to transplant it. To make sure that there are no pests in the pot, you can lower the pot with the plant in a bowl of warm water for 30 to 40 minutes, covering the surface of the pot with a net so that pieces of bark do not float away. They usually transplant if the substrate has already become unusable every two or three years. Over time, the substrate becomes caked, becomes brittle, brittle, somehow black and smells sour. So the time comes for a transplant, as a rule, after flowering. The peculiarity of Phalaenopsis growth is that it belongs to monopodial plants, the growth point is at the top, and the plant simply lengthens due to growth. Almost all new and healthy roots are between the leaves and are aerial. What remains in the pot is an old stem with already dried roots. But this happens in 5 - 7 years. In the meantime, Phalaenopsis is growing, a new clean and fresh substrate is needed.
Master class "Transplant Phalaenopsis": , .

substrate

main component substrate for Phalaenopsis is the bark of small and medium fractions. If the humidity in your apartment is low, which happens in the autumn-winter period, when the heating is turned on, then you need to add sphagnum moss. At the bottom of the pot, pieces of the bark of the middle fraction are usually placed, and in the middle and on top of the fine fraction. Dry bark quickly passes water, therefore, before transplanting, it is necessary to rinse the bark and soak for 2 days so that it is saturated with moisture. Then drain this water and rinse in clean water. Add chopped moss, mix and you can transplant the plant.

Capacity

Phalaenopsis are usually transplanted into clear pots, although opaque plastic or ceramic pots can also be used. Some hobbyists grow on blocks, but this requires increased attention and care.

G. Gruzinova

Marina Bugrova, "Treatment and nursing of orchids":,
Andrey Romanko, "Orchid Lighting": ,

Master class "Transplanting and caring for phalaenopsis":,.

If your falik is stubborn and does not want to bloom, I will give a recipe under the cut, thanks to which you will receive a new peduncle in a month, a maximum of two.
In any season. For phalaenopsis periodically and regularly several times a year lay flower buds, but in order to wake them up and call them to life, something needs to be done. Sometimes, however, the conditions necessary for flowering happen in life on their own, by chance. But we want to learn how to manage this process. Or not?

1) So, I describe in detail the METHOD ITSELF (which allows phalaenopsis to bloom at any time of the year, at any temperature (except hellish, of course), without any drops, drops and other excesses, and even ... in low light conditions. Tested over the years. To whom I managed to recommend earlier - everything bloomed and blooms regularly.

2) But first, I need to dot the "i" once and for all about the only correct watering of phalaenopsis - this is very important. Each time it is watered precisely after the complete drying of the entire substrate and all the roots. Winter and summer. And nothing else, it is an axiom, despite the fact that "there are persistent rumors about something else" - they are incorrect and false.

3) So, if you want your phalaenopsis to bloom - start dramatically increasing the "drought" intervals between waterings. After everything around is dry and dry - wait another 4 (at very warm or hot temperatures) to 7 days (at cooler temperatures), and only then water. In general - you can simply double the interval. If you watered once every 5 days - now do it once every 10 days and so on.

4) The main thing here is to do it methodically and constantly, in no case "spare" the plant from time to time, spraying the substrate surface or roots there. Otherwise, I can't guarantee you success. The regime must be strict. IMPORTANT: Any fertilizer and other stimulants - completely eliminate at this time! And no hot showers, nothing that sets the plant in a "vegetative" way, and prevents you from tuning in to flowering!

5) Usually, on average, the peduncle is shown in less than a month of observing such a regime, for the most capricious creatures - after two. But it always shows up. When you see it, you can water it as usual and continue to fertilize (although it is not at all necessary to fertilize the peduncle, and often it is even unnecessary. It is especially stupid to fertilize already opened flowers, then they will fade much faster).

6) If the peduncle appeared in the dark season with a short daylight hours or a long very cloudy season, then backlighting will already be necessary for its successful development. Moreover, it is enough to highlight only the tip of the peduncle, and not the entire plant (just make sure that the lamp does not heat it or other parts of the plant, even slightly!)
Without additional lighting in an unfavorable season, the peduncle can stop developing at any stage or suddenly dry the buds ready to open.

7) After flowering, it is also worth reducing watering for a while (about a month), but already slightly. This is also a natural adherence to the nature of the plant. After flowering in nature, it grows seeds that are very small and volatile, and sometimes they are found several tens of kilometers from the mother plant. Such "flights" of seeds are naturally impossible during the rainy seasons, but only during relatively dry periods. The closer you understand the real needs of an orchid (and not fabulous ones from dubious sources), the more healthy and grateful your plant will be for flowering from year to year.

PS: In the same way, vandas and all monopodial orchids similar in type to phalaenopsis without a dormant period are stimulated.
And this is not a mockery of the plant at all - but rather an excellent understanding of its needs. After all, an orchid does not grow flowers for us, and not even for itself - but for pollinators. And pollinators do not fly en masse during the heavy rainy season, and the plant "knows" this very well.

If you think that phalaenopsis in nature do not face drought, then take a look at their thick leaves and roots with a powerful layer of velamen. Why does an orchid have such obvious "succulent" signs if it grows "wet all the time", as incompetent sources often recommend??? According to the laws of nature - there is never something "just like that, in case of a nuclear war" :-)) There are even deciduous species of phalaenopsis that lose their leaves for a dry period. Here you have, in principle, both a logical and quite scientific explanation of the method's trouble-free operation.

SPECIAL! It is not necessary to encourage sick, immature, unwell, too young plants, as well as only recently completely (and possibly repeatedly) withered plants, to "blooming exploits". I was talking only about strong, healthy and mature rested specimens.

Good luck!
http://orchids-lux.livejournal.com/12523.html

If you want to buy an exotic flower of extraordinary beauty for yourself, we recommend that you pay attention to Phalaenopsis. We are sure that this is something you will definitely like. In a flower shop, you can easily recognize these orchids by their gray-green powerful roots sticking out of planting containers, by rosettes of dense beautiful leaves and, most importantly, by flowers resembling tropical moths or fabulous butterflies sitting on tall peduncles. We will tell you about the nuances of caring for the Phalaenopsis orchid at home.

You will be amazed at how many varieties of Phalaenopsis are on sale, what a variety of bizarre shapes, colors and aromas there are. Choose what you like. It is advisable to choose a butterfly orchid during the flowering period and with a large number of unopened buds. Then there will be a guarantee that for a long time you will admire the charming flowering.

Pay attention to the leaves of the specimen you like - in a healthy flower, they should be dark green, fleshy, with a waxy sheen. If the leaves are wilted, slightly wrinkled or with suspicious spots - do not take this copy, even if the seller will give it at half price. Look closely at the roots as well. A healthy Phalaenopsis will have powerful, light green rhizomes that sit tightly in the substrate. They may protrude, this is normal. But brown, darkened and drying roots should not be. If a plant in a pot staggers a lot, then the root system is generally unviable. Don't buy these copies.

Prices for different varieties of Phalaenopsis are different, from 300 rubles to several thousand. If a plant has a minor defect, and you are offered to buy it at a well reduced price, evaluate your grower's abilities. If you have experience in growing orchids, you can buy such a flower. Care and care will help you restore the decorativeness of the flower, and you will definitely wait for its magnificent flowering.

flower description

Phalaenopsis is an exotic flowering plant of the Orchid family, an epiphyte. Its homeland is the tropical rainforests of Indonesia, Australia, and Southeast Asia. Phalaenopsis has only one growth point - its basal rosette of leaves. The average orchid grows up to one meter. Breeders have bred hybrid varieties for every taste - from miniature bushes to giants. The color palette is also amazing: from pure whites to almost black colors, as well as pinks, yellows, purples, lilacs and purples of all shades. In addition to pure tones, there are flowers with speckled petals, spots, stains, and even hieroglyphs.

Not so long ago, only the most advanced flower growers were engaged in breeding and growing Phalaenopsis, but now these orchids are increasingly found not only in flower greenhouses, where it is easiest to create suitable tropical conditions for them, but also in ordinary apartments of exotic lovers. In this article we will tell you what conditions will be comfortable for a flower if it lives with you in the same apartment.

You can find more detailed information about the plant, as well as a description of the species and varieties of Phalaenopsis.

Phalaenopsis orchid care at home

Start caring for your new pet as soon as you get home from the store. The flower hardly tolerates a change of residence. If you have chosen a beautiful strong plant, in which all the roots look strong and healthy, and the peduncle, tall and elastic, is strewn with flowers of extraordinary beauty, then the best thing is to leave the flower alone for a couple of weeks. How to care for Phalaenopsis at this time? No way! At this time, neither watering, nor feeding, nor transplanting Phalaenopsis is necessary. It is also not necessary to put it on the windowsill next to other flowers, let it stand on the sidelines, in partial shade, as if in quarantine. Inspect the flower regularly. If in a pot the substrate consists of large pieces of bark, the roots are gray-green in color, the plant looks healthy, then it does not need a transplant. Move the plant pot to the place of honor prepared for it among other green pets and start taking care of it according to all the rules.

Healthy Phalaenopsis bushes are transplanted no more than once every two to three years, when its substrate turns into dust. But there are good reasons to transplant a plant urgently.

For example, during quarantine, you found that on Phalaenopsis the leaves began to wither and sag, and the soil, drying up, became like a caked washcloth. Or if the plant has black spots or other signs of rot on the roots. In both cases, Phalaenopsis should be transplanted into another pot with a new substrate, and without waiting for the end of flowering.

Remove the plant from the planting container, rinse its root system gently under a warm shower. If the soil is poorly washed, leave the orchid in a bowl of water for a while. Then free the roots from the soil, shake off the water. Cut off rotten, damaged and too long roots. Sprinkle slices with crushed activated or charcoal. Leave Phalaenopsis for a while, overnight, in a dry bowl, so that all sections are tightened and dry. In the morning, plant the plant in a new, pre-disinfected pot in a soil mixture suitable for epiphytic plants. At the bottom of the pot, lay out a layer of the largest pieces of the substrate, and with smaller pieces of the substrate, fill the voids between the roots to the base of the outlet. Leave two to three cm free on top of the pot, so that as the aerial roots grow, there is a place where to pour the substrate. A large plant with dense, heavy leaves must be tied to a support and strengthened so that it does not stagger.

If the root system of a flower has been severely damaged, it will be difficult for it to recover. Help the plant. Put the flower together with the pot in a plastic bag for a couple of weeks to create greenhouse conditions for the diseased plant with constant humidity and temperature. Ventilate it from time to time. Pre-cut the flower stalk and place in a vase with settled water. It is better to sacrifice a peduncle than to lose the whole flower. A cut peduncle with butterfly flowers will serve as a consolation for a long time.

Other reasons for transplanting Phalaenopsis into a new pot:

• too small capacity. This can be determined not only by the roots that stick out above the pot, but by the roots that filled the entire pot inside and displaced the substrate. Phalaenopsis should be transplanted into such a slightly larger pot so that, in addition to the roots, enough substrate is placed in it for support. It is better to transplant after flowering.
• if all the leaves fell off in one direction during transportation, the peduncle with its support is also tilted, healthy roots stick out too much. Transplant the flower into a normal pot with good support, fill the voids with a suitable substrate.

If the orchid feels good, the leaves are elastic, the roots are light green, alive, we do not recommend disturbing the flower. If you want to transplant Phalaenopsis into a new beautiful flowerpot, then it is better to do this in early spring and only after the orchid has finished flowering.

In any case, after each transplant, do not water the plant for the first three or four days, let the disturbed roots tighten their wounds.

The soil

Phalaenopsis are epiphytic plants. In the wild, they grow on trees. Their roots are aerial. They are used not only to strengthen the plant on the bark and branches of trees, but also to feed the plant from the air. The flower also receives moisture and oxygen with the help of its powerful roots. Therefore, Phalaenopsis categorically do not grow in ordinary garden or forest soil and do not tolerate prolonged flooding. The substrate for them is more loose, light, moisture and breathable. Suitable ready-made soil for epiphytic or orchid plants. We recommend that you study the composition of the soil. Sometimes it is not suitable for growing Phalaenopsis due to its high water capacity.

It is not at all difficult to prepare the soil yourself. Collect bark from fallen trees in a pine forest, dense, without resin. Grind it into pieces from 1 to 3 cm, add the same size pieces of charcoal, foam, wine corks. Stir. Put in a saucepan and boil for 10 minutes. The composition of the substrate is a little strange, but it will do as a support for the Butterfly Orchid! If the room has dry air, you can add a little sphagnum moss to the substrate, just a little, otherwise it will fill the entire space and prevent the roots from breathing freely. In addition, a large amount of moss will retain moisture, excess of which can harm the roots. In any case, you should not overfill the pot with substrate, so as not to interfere with air circulation between the roots.

Humidity

Tropical beauty grows best with high ambient humidity. If it is not enough, Phalaenopsis may stop growing, buds will stop opening on it, flowers will begin to dry out. It is necessary to maintain humidity in the room with a flower in the range of 60 - 80%. The minimum allowable humidity is 30-40%. At low humidity and high temperatures, place the flower pot in a tall tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles. In no case should the pot stand in water. Water can be poured into wide containers or plates, which are placed around the orchid pot. Phalaenopsis likes regular spraying of its leaves and surrounding air in the morning, especially during those periods of its life when heating is turned on in houses. By night, there should be no water in the axils of the leaves and at the point of growth.

Phalaenopsis pot and watering

For this orchid, a not very large translucent plastic pot or similar glass container with holes in the bottom and sides is suitable, in which the state of the substrate and the root system will be constantly under your control. The plant needs a pot for support. The size of the pot should be suitable for the powerful root system of the plant. In a pot that is too small, the roots will be injured and stick out, and in a pot that is too large, moisture will accumulate and the substrate will not dry out well, which will eventually lead to rotting of the roots.

A translucent pot is perfect

If you don't really like the pattern of intertwined roots in the substrate, you can hide it by placing the pot in a wide multi-colored planter. Drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are required, as water stagnation is not allowed due to the danger of root rot. A transparent pot is also good because you will constantly watch how the substrate dries out after the next watering. Under normal humidity, healthy roots are green, drying out, they brighten. Dry substrate and light roots serve as a signal for the next watering.

If you still planted Phalaenopsis in a dark pot, you will have to feel the soil moisture at the depth of the pot by touch. Carefully rake the substrate one or two cm deep, see if it's damp there. If dry, you can water again. Drain excess water from the pan. Use only settled or boiled water. Previously, they used rainwater, but with the deterioration of the ecology in cities, many harmful impurities began to appear in precipitation.

How to water Phalaenopsis:

• in the heat - every 2-3 days;
• in spring and autumn - once a week;
• in winter - once every two weeks.

If you notice that condensation often collects on the walls of the pot between waterings, then make additional holes in the walls of the pot for better air circulation.

Let's talk about another popular method of watering Phalaenopsis. The pot with the plant is placed for two to three hours in a large container with warm settled water so that the water covers 1/3 of the pot. This bathing can be replaced by prolonged watering - continuously, for 20 minutes, pour warm water into the pot until the substrate in the pot is completely wet and saturated with moisture in the right amount. The roots of the orchid will noticeably turn green. After bathing, place the pot in a pan so that excess water drains out of it through the drainage holes. Excess water must be drained immediately.

If the air temperature in the room stays above 30 degrees for a long time, bathing is carried out once every 5 days.

We draw your attention to the fact that the quality of the water is an important point for the well-being of the Phalaenopsis. If you water it with tap water, even warm, then over time, rusty or white spots will appear on the leaves and roots, depending on the excess of salts in the water. It is possible to get rid of plaque with the help of milk or lemon water, with which it is necessary to wash the leaves of the plant. If you use distilled water for irrigation, in which there are no salts and trace elements at all, fertilizers for epiphytic plants should be added to such water when watering. It is best to water with filtered or boiled water, heated by two to three grams. above room temperature.

Sometimes, for the cultivation of Phalaenopsis, special epiphytic woven bamboo or wooden baskets are used, in which the light green roots of the flower with a silvery sheen develop freely, effectively wrapping themselves around the slats of the basket, both inside and outside.

But we do not recommend ceramic pots for growing Phalaenopsis. Powerful roots grow into the walls of such a pot and complicate the process of removing the plant from the pot during transplantation. Serious damage to the root system of the flower is possible.

Location and lighting

Phalaenopsis love good lighting. Daylight hours must be at least 12 hours. A flower pot is best placed on a windowsill in a southeast, east or west direction. It is better not to put on the windowsills of the southern direction - the leaves can get burned. But not far from the southern windows, on a table or hanging shelf, this orchid will grow beautifully. If you have only north windows, only a place directly on the windowsill is suitable for an orchid. © site

In the period from autumn to spring, the plant will need additional lighting. Don't worry - Phalaenopsis grow well in artificial light. You can use this property of theirs when choosing a place in the back of the living room. You just need to keep in mind that over time, Phalaenopsis leans towards the light with its entire body. Therefore, it must occasionally be rotated 180 degrees to prevent tipping or falling out of the pot.

Lighting is especially necessary for a flower when forcing a peduncle and a set of buds. At this time, it is advisable to put the pot closer to the light and not disturb. Do not rotate, do not rearrange from place to place. Leave these manipulations until the last bud opens. Now, at the time of flowering, you can rearrange the pot deep into the room, in well-lit partial shade.

Temperature

The summer temperature of the flower content is allowed from 24 to 30 gr. In principle, this is the usual room temperature at which we all live in the summer. If the temperature is above 32 degrees for a long time, the flower may drop buds and flowers, the leaves will begin to wither. Try to keep the temperature within reasonable limits by spraying the flower and the surrounding area, placing the pot in a tray of wet pebbles, using a split system. To stimulate the formation of flower buds, we recommend keeping night temperatures five to six degrees lower than daytime ones.

In winter, the optimum temperature for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 18 - 25 gr. For a couple of days, the plant will withstand a temperature of 10-15 degrees, if longer, then it is not a fact that it will not get sick. Under the influence of low temperatures, the roots of Phalaenopsis cease to absorb moisture, the plant begins to consume the nutrients and water accumulated earlier in the leaves. The leaves begin to wrinkle, lose their elasticity. Novice flower growers think that the orchid lacks moisture, and begin to water the plant intensively, which aggravates the situation. Frozen roots cannot absorb water and rot. In order to avoid this situation, we recommend keeping a thermometer on the windowsill next to the pot to monitor the temperature. Place the flower pot in such a way that it does not come into contact with cold glass.

Phalaenopsis love fresh air. Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, even in winter, while protecting the flower from drafts so as not to provoke any.

During the winter dormancy of Phalaenopsis, a couple of weeks after flowering, it is advisable to keep the flower in a cool place, at a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Keep in mind - the lower the temperature, the less the humidity in the room should be, less spraying, less watering. And vice versa. The critical temperature for a flower is considered to be below 5 gr.

How to fertilize a Phalaenopsis orchid

Properly selected fertilizers for the Phalaenopsis orchid are a very important component of its growth and flowering. All the nutrients these orchids get from the roots. Therefore, it is worth feeding it with liquid water-soluble fertilizers for orchids. Suitable fertilizers "Kemira-Lux" in a dose reduced by 2 times. If the plant has few leaves, it needs to be fed with fertilizers for orchids, where nitrogen predominates. But don't overdo it! Read the instructions. Otherwise, the growth of green leaves will go to the detriment of the formation of a peduncle. If there are enough leaves, from 4 to 6 in a rosette, and there is still no peduncle, then Phalaenopsis should be fed with fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium, until flowering begins.

In flower shops, before selling Phalaenopsis, they are sometimes fed to stimulate flowering with long-lasting fertilizers in the form of small balls. These balls gradually dissolve in the substrate over time. Keep this in mind when you decide to feed your pet for the first time. First, make sure that all store-bought fertilizer has dissolved. It is better to wait and give the plant a break from them for a couple of months.

The flower is usually fed once every two weeks in the summer, and once a month in the winter. During flowering and during dormancy, Phalaenopsis does not need to be fed!

Blooming Phalaenopsis

Many people wonder how to make Phalaenopsis bloom at home? Different varieties of this butterfly orchid bloom at different ages. You need to know the age of your plant. Why is your Phalaenopsis orchid not blooming? Perhaps because he is still young. If you bought a non-flowering bush, and at home he is clearly not going to please you with a flower arrow - do not be upset ahead of time. Some Phalaenopsis bloom at the age of one and a half years, others - when they are 3 years old. You can determine the age by counting the number of shoots. In an adult plant, ready for flowering, they are from 5 to 8 pieces. If there are fewer shoots, and the orchid is gaining buds, this is not always good. It happens that a too young Phalaenopsis orchid does not have enough strength to recover after flowering, it may even die. If you have such a case, and a young specimen threw out a peduncle, it is better to cut it off.

Different varieties of Phalaenopsis bloom at different times of the year. For some, the peak of flowering occurs at the end of spring - summer, for others - in winter. Some bloom for two months, while others last for six months or more. Phalaenopsis flowers are very dense, they hold tightly on the peduncle from a month to two. The flower stalks themselves live much longer. Large-flowered Phalaenopsis bloom almost all year round due to the ability of their flower stalks to lengthen, branch and gain new buds during flowering. After flowering, such flower stalks should not be cut, because they will develop and bloom more than once. In addition, so-called air "children" are often formed on them.

An adult plant produces several flower stalks a year - in mid-spring and early autumn. If a butterfly orchid has released an arrow in autumn or winter, you should take care that the peduncle does not die due to short daylight hours. We recommend that you purchase a phyto lamp - a special lamp for artificial lighting of plants in the dark season. These lamps give a lot of light without drying out the air around the flowers. Turn on such lamps when it becomes necessary to extend daylight hours to 10 - 12 hours.

Another necessary condition for the flowering of some varieties of Phalaenopsis is a difference in day and night temperatures of 5–6 degrees, preferably throughout the year. Creating such conditions can be problematic. From late spring to early autumn, these orchids can be kept outdoors. Then the difference between day and night temperatures is formed naturally. At other times, when the Phalaenopsis are indoors, you will have to ventilate the room with the flower well at night, not forgetting that orchids are afraid of drafts.

rest period

Phalaenopsis has faded, what to do next? After the inflorescences fall off, let the Phalaenopsis rest for a while. Move the pot to a darker cool place. Reduce watering by three times. Do not feed, transplant, spray. Perhaps the old lower leaves will turn yellow and dry out - this is a natural process, do not be alarmed. The peduncle itself, after flowering, may dry out, then prune the orchid. In some varieties of Phalaenopsis, the peduncle remains green. In this case, the options are:

• You can leave the peduncle as is. Then new buds will appear on it over time.
• You can cut the peduncle to the first bud, then over time a new peduncle will grow from this bud.
• You can cut off the peduncle completely, and put it in a vase with warm clean water. Then he may eventually have a new kidney.

Such a dormant period is simply necessary for an adult plant in order to accumulate more strength for a new flowering. No more than three months later, new buds form on the flower, and flowering begins.

If this did not happen, Phalaenopsis did not bloom at the right time, the reason must be found. Read the rules for Phalaenopsis care from the beginning, find your mistakes and try to stimulate its flowering in a few months.

cut phalaenopsis

What could be more beautiful than a bouquet of orchids? Bouquets made up of tropical varieties of orchids are presented as rarely as they are treated to real aged French champagne. From the 19th century to the present day, these are the most expensive flowers grown for cutting. Only some types of orchids, and Phalaenopsis among them, can stand for many days and even weeks and at the same time maintain freshness and aroma.

If you decide to purchase a cut Phalaenopsis, pay attention, first of all, to its petals and sepals.

• Flowers with soft, thin, frosted petals and sepals tend to be short-lived.
• Vitreous tepals and protruding veins occur in fading flowers.

If the petals and sepals are strong to the touch, and even hard, and look shiny, like wax, then you can buy such a Phalaenopsis, it will stand in a vase with water for a long time. And you can still extend his life. Here are some tips:

1. If you buy Phalaenopsis in the autumn-winter period, try to pack it carefully to protect it from cold and wind.
2. Do not turn the bouquet upside down - the transport liquid will leak out of the capsule.
3. If you brought home a bouquet from the cold, do not rush to release it from the packaging. Let it stand in a warm room for at least an hour. A sudden change in temperature can be more dangerous for a flower than the absence of water.
4. Before putting the flower in a vase, use a sharp knife to renew the oblique cut of the stem under running water. This operation must be repeated every two to three days in order to avoid blockage of the conductive vessels through which water rises to the flowers.
5. The water in the vase should be clean and soft. Use boiled, distilled, or filtered water just above room temperature. No preservatives should be added to the water. Moreover, special inscriptions are usually written on the labels of preservatives: “Attention! Not intended for orchids! The water in the vase can not be changed completely, it is enough to add a little fresh portion.
6. Keep in mind that Phalaenopsis in the cut, as well as in a pot, do not like cold and drafts. They should never be stored in the refrigerator. However, they also do not like the bright sun, dry indoor air and heat above 32 degrees.
7. Do not put a vase of flowers next to a vase filled with fruit. Ripe fruits release ethylene gas, which shortens the life of orchid flowers. Withered flowers have the same property - to release gas. Therefore, they should be immediately removed from the peduncle and, fallen off, from the table.

Phalaenopsis can be combined with other flowers. For example, in a bouquet with roses, peony tulips or peonies, it looks great. Only its stem should be placed in a common vase in a separate container or test tube with distilled water. Then he is not afraid if a preservative is added to the common vase to extend the life of the bouquet.
Cut branches of Phalaenopsis are valued and loved for their durability, tenderness and high decorative effect. They are so beautiful, colorful and unusual that they are often used in wedding decorations. © site

Conclusion

Phalaenopsis is considered the most unpretentious of all types of orchids, moreover, the most beautiful and long-blooming. During flowering, it invariably becomes the center of all family life. A beautiful and healthy plant speaks of a well-groomed house in which peace and mutual understanding reign. If you take care of him as a family member, with love and understanding, Phalaenopsis will live with you for many years, decorating the interior of your apartment with its extraordinary beauty.

Orchids are gaining immense popularity among lovers of indoor flowers. They are conquered by their exotic beauty, the color variety of butterfly flowers. But although these plants are sold literally at every turn, many do not dare to purchase them, fearing that care will be too difficult.

These tropical plants require certain conditions for good growth and spectacular flowering. However, it cannot be said that their cultivation is extremely difficult. Flowers that are sold today in supermarkets or garden centers usually grow well in ordinary apartment conditions. There are 25 thousand species of orchids in the world, and they do not grow only at the North and South Poles. The most common type of orchid is phalaenopsis, which blooms twice a year for several months in a row, and sometimes continuously.

Purchase rules

When purchasing a plant, you should pay attention to the fact that its root system is tightly located in the pot, which means that it is well developed. It is important that the leaves are not sluggish, with good turgor. How many flowers are currently on the plant does not matter, since the subsequent flowering of orchids in the apartment, as a rule, does not repeat the flowering that was in the greenhouse. This will depend on what time the flower blooms, how well it is provided with light, on the quality of watering, etc. Most often, with repeated flowering, the flowers are much smaller. Beginners can be advised to purchase phalaenopsis with not very large flowers. The opinion that white orchids are the most unpretentious is not true. Phalaenopsis with variegated flowers grow best and bloom more often; in everyday life they are called “blotters”. These are very hardy varieties and are more likely to produce repeat blooms than many white varieties.

It is better to buy a well-blown flower, because when moving from place to place, the buds may fall off.

Where to put?

Until the moment when there are unblown buds on the orchid, it should “register” on the windowsill. As soon as all the flowers bloom, the plant falls into a dormant state - and then it can be used as an interior one, placed in a beautiful planter somewhere near the windowsill.

How to water?

Watering an orchid is best done by immersion. To do this, we lower the pot with the plant for 10-15 minutes into a container with settled water, the temperature of which should be slightly warmer than room temperature. It is desirable that the water does not reach the edge of the pot. In a room where the air temperature does not exceed 20-22 ° C, it is necessary to water in this way no more than twice a week. It should be remembered that orchids are protected by nature from drying out of the roots. The visible part of them is not the roots themselves, but the cork layer, which, like a sponge, absorbs moisture and gives it to real roots - thin threads inside.

The main principle is not to flood. If in doubt whether to water or not, do not water. An orchid is just the plant that should not be given to a neighbor when leaving the house for 1.5-2 weeks. Watered - and left quietly. As a last resort, place 2-3 cups of water around the pot. All the moisture that evaporates will be available to the roots of the plant, and it will be enough for them.

When should you water? You can navigate by the presence or absence of condensate on the walls of the pot. If there are droplets inside - no need. Another way to “diagnose” is by the weight of the pot. A dry flower is light, a wet one is much heavier. However, this method is not suitable for recently transplanted plants, since in the first few months after transplantation the bark has not yet swollen and gains and retains moisture less. The surest way is to navigate by the color of the roots. Saturated with moisture, they acquire a bright green color. As soon as the roots turn pale and become a silvery shade, it's time to water the orchid.

What to do when the plant has faded?

There are plants that bloom repeatedly on dormant buds. Given this, you need to cut off the faded arrow by smearing the cut with brilliant green or iodine. With good lighting, the plant will bloom again in 3-4 months, and possibly faster. Plants grown by the manufacturer using hormonal agents bloom more often.

Transfer

Orchids are epiphytes, meaning plants that grow on trees. They do not use the bark for food - they need it only in order to gain a foothold. In nature, orchids feed on solutes, which are washed away by heavy rains, washing the roots of the plant. Therefore, it is unacceptable to “play around with fertilizers” by growing indoor specimens. As soon as you feed a green pet, the surface of the cork layer becomes salty and the roots begin to die. This is evidenced by their blackening.

As soon as you notice that the plant does not feel well, it should be transplanted. Before that, it must be watered in an old pot. Then take out the orchid and cut off all the dead roots. If the root system is intact and healthy, you can use the same pot, you just need to replace the substrate. If there are a lot of dead roots, you need to take a smaller pot - so that the plant in it can fully grow the root system again. If an orchid with a small number of weak roots ends up in a large amount of substrate, it will inevitably become waterlogged, this will make the plant breathe poorly and it is not known whether it can recover.

The last and most important condition is that you need to plant orchids only in dry pine bark. Pieces of bark stuck to the roots can be left in order not to injure the roots. In addition, there is a certain amount of soprophyte fungus on the bark, which contributes to the good development of the plant.

Sometimes orchids can be found on sale. These are usually faded specimens, but they are by no means the worst option for those who want to try growing orchids, especially since the price of such plants is much lower. To begin with, they need to be transplanted. If the leaves turned out to be lethargic, drooping, they need to be fixed with hairpins in a more vertical position, lifting them with, say, wooden skewers for kebabs. In this case, the plant will be much easier to take root.

Is coarse or fine substrate preferable?

For phalaenopsis, it should not be too small, otherwise the plant will often have to be transplanted. Meanwhile, orchids do not like transplants very much, and this should be done no more than once every 3-4 years.

If someone wants to prepare the substrate themselves, the pine bark does not need to be processed, since there are no diseases that it could transmit to the plant. The bark just needs to be broken into pieces and dried.

Watering after transplant

On the day of transplantation, the plant is not watered, and throughout the next week, too. For 7 days, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the bark with a spray bottle. At the same time, water should not get into the phalaenopsis outlet, because this can cause the death of the entire plant. After 7 days, the orchid must be fully watered by immersion.

How to feed orchids?

It is better to feed the plant less, but more often, applying micro-doses of fertilizer with each watering. To do this, add 1-2 drops of fertilizer for orchids per liter of water.

It is advisable to alternate root and foliar top dressing. When foliar, it is enough to add 1-2 drops of liquid orchid fertilizer per liter of water and spray the underside of the leaves with the solution. Firstly, there will be no plaque, and secondly, nutrients are better absorbed by the cells of the underside of the leaf. You can also apply ready-to-use sprays by spraying flowers once a week.

Light

Orchids are photophilous, but they cannot stand direct sunlight, they need diffused light. In winter, additional lighting is required for flowering, otherwise defective buds may come out. It is very important not to expose orchids in direct sunlight on a windowsill in early spring, as the leaves contain a lot of moisture and can easily burn. From the intense spring sun, the orchid must be protected. For this purpose, gauze, tulle, and just a sheet of paper are suitable.

A variety of mini-forms of orchids appeared on sale.

How to take care of them?

You probably noticed that in a pot of mini-plants, not pine bark, but sphagnum moss. Growing orchids in it, for some reason, manufacturers do not transplant them. Since sphagnum is very hygroscopic, it is easy to overdo it with moisture. If you leave everything as it is, you need to immerse the pot with a mini-copy in water for a centimeter, no more. It doesn’t matter that the moss is dry on top, moisture will gradually get there. But still, I recommend transplanting mini, after soaking the moss, into pine bark, using the same pot. And nothing if the plant blooms. As a rule, phalaenopsis flowers do not shed during transplantation.

Can a pot be used?

Since orchid roots are capable of photosynthesis, it is important that they are exposed to light. If you use a planter, then it must be transparent. In no case should a plant be transplanted directly into a pot without drainage holes, as many do. You just need to insert a transparent pot with a plant in a planter, periodically filling it with water for watering. It is not scary if some of the moisture remains at the bottom of the raised bottom of the pots. Over time, the roots will crawl through the drainage holes of the pot and will be fed with moisture. But if you immediately leave a lot of water in the pots, there is a chance that the orchid will suffocate and die. Therefore, it is necessary to accustom the plant to the constant presence of moisture gradually.

Should I deepen the trunk when transplanting?

As the plant grows, the lower leaves die off and the trunk lengthens. It must be deepened. And one more nuance: if the trunk becomes bare, dry remains of leaves remain on it, which must be removed, because dormant roots are hidden under them. Hard stumps of dead leaves prevent the awakening of these roots. It is very easy to remove a dry plate of an old sheet if you break it in the middle and pull it slightly to the sides. If you start to “pick” the sheet from any one side, you will inevitably damage the trunk.

Growing orchids in your apartment or house is only your independent experience. No specialist, book or Internet will teach you to be friends with a plant. So I advise you to watch it. If the book says to water once every 4 days, and you see that this is a lot in the conditions of your apartment, be guided by your own experience. And remember that phalaenopsis is almost impossible to kill.

Natalia MINAKOVA