How to make a wooden country table. Do-it-yourself table for giving (44 photos): choice of materials and tools. Decorating Wooden table 3 meters with your own hands

A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the occupant's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of ​​​​support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of ​​support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been greatly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the goats are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the table top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, you should not forget about the prog so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways to attach folding table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.

Design options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of ​​support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here) and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

A large table is often very necessary for a private house or cottage. Behind him it is cozy to sit in the evening with family or close friends. If you want to put it on the veranda, then it is best to make such a table yourself, and not buy it. The fact is that the product from the store will quickly become unusable from bad weather.

How to make a kitchen table with your own hands? What options for tables can be made from boards? This and much more will be discussed in this article.

Instruments

In order to make such a table, will need:

• a hammer;
• nails;
• shovel;
• Oil paint;
• bitumen;
• drying oil;
• jointer;
• plane;
• beam;
• logs without bark.

Material

Initially, you will need to select the type of table, prepare the drawings, and only after that the material itself. By the way, it can be different:

• Array. Due to its high cost, it is not very popular. The advantage is that the table is obtained from this material very simply.
• Timber and cut boards. Most often, these materials are used in the manufacture of the table.
• Chipboard. It is easy to use and enjoys the highest popularity.

Do it yourself

Consider in detail the manufacture of a table of timber and boards.

After all measurements have been made and the necessary cuts have been made, it will be necessary to grind each element of the future table with a grinder. With a damp sponge, the dust that appears during the process is collected. After that, you need to cover the tree with a solution - an antiseptic from possible moisture. When the wood dries, it will be possible to continue all work.

It will be necessary to form a supporting structure from bars and bars. The bars themselves are rounded, and holes of the desired diameter are made at the top of the bar. This is necessary for further connection. You will have to make some effort to properly dock them. It will be better if you pour glue inside.

Now it's time for the table top. You will need to cut the board itself in half lengthwise. Lay the rest alternately between the two segments. If everything is done correctly, you should get a loose tabletop.

For the front and back boards, make holes in the center of the other bars on the opposite side. After that, full-fledged holes are drilled to the depth that allows the screw to be completely wrapped.

You will need to use screws that are not susceptible to rust. In this case, galvanized screws are perfect. At all joints you need to fasten the rail. Fixation should occur in a checkerboard pattern.

At the final stage, you need to combine the countertop and legs into one design. To do this, you need metal corners. To make the joints, you need glue. After this operation, the structure is pressed down with a heavy load for six hours. It is best to put caps of a suitable color on the screw heads.

Final stage

The table is assembled. Now it should be covered with stain and varnish. After this has been done, the table is left to dry for 36 hours.

To get holes of large diameter, you need to use crowns and drill bits for a drill. With their help, you can form both external and internal contours.

DIY round table (video)

How to make a window sill table

Using the surface under the window, you can easily make a table. Lighting falls perfectly on the windowsill, and with the help of the street view, you can relax tired eyes.

materials

In order to make a table from the windowsill, you will need the following materials:

• various screws;
• mounting foam;
• sandpaper;
• pine furniture board;
• chromed metal racks;
• timber to strengthen the window sill;
• glue;
• matte enamel;
• wood putty;
• plastic plugs for racks;
• mounting profiles;
• antiseptic for wood;
• assembly foam.

Instruments

Required tools:

• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• cord;
• roulette;
• paint brush;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• plane;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill.

Manufacturing

First of all, you need to make drawings in such a way that the window sill table is convenient for work and does not interfere with the passage. After measurements have been taken, you need to take up the furniture board and its markings. It should be comfortable to sit at the future table. If there is a battery, then the legs should not rest on it.

You will need to cut out the drawn blank from the panel and try it on the windowsill. Draw future holes with a pencil through which hot air will circulate from the battery. If the table turned out to be short, then you will need one leg in the center.

After that, you need to make short holes across the entire width of the table with a thick drill. To avoid burrs, you will need to treat the surface with sandpaper. Next, the legs are screwed to the tabletop.

The countertop is fixed to the windowsill with liquid nails. The surface is leveled and the legs are adjusted in height. After that, we can assume that the table is ready.

Making a wooden table (video)

Folding table

You also need to consider such an option as a folding table made of boards and a window sill.

First, a piano loop of the desired size is attached to the bottom of the window sill. The table top is cut out. Several rows of holes are made in it, which will conduct warm air from the battery. A cross member and a pair of legs are made from a bar. The product is treated with sandpaper and varnished. All sawn elements are connected with screws.

Legs with a drawstring are attached to the table top with a piano loop. A lid is attached to the window sill. The table perfectly decorates the room and closes the battery, especially when folded.

How to make a round table with your own hands

You can also make a round table from the boards with your own hands. Previously, in any apartment it was considered a necessary attribute. It was followed by the whole family or together with friends. Moreover, no one was sitting in the corner, since the round table simply has no corners. Today, these tables are gaining their popularity again. It is not difficult to make it with your own hands.

Part preparation

Parts for assembly must be carefully prepared. The disc will be the tabletop, and the circle will connect the legs and the tabletop itself.

Plywood is sanded and varnished in several layers. The same procedure is repeated with what will be the future legs.

The legs are attached to the tabletop with a plywood ring.

Assembly

On the plywood ring, markings are made for the holes in which the legs will be. In those places that have been marked, drill holes of the desired diameter.

The legs will be a beam sawn into four parts. Before assembly, they will need to be processed. The legs are attached to the ring with a screwdriver.

The table must be both beautiful and stable. Between the legs of the table under the table top, two plywood strips must be installed crosswise.

The entire supporting structure is fully attached to the tabletop. The plywood ring is connected to the countertop. After that, the round table is ready.

Do-it-yourself table from boards (video)

Conclusion

With your own hands, you can make various types of tables from the board. As you can see from the article, the manufacturing process does not seem complicated. Even a novice home master can handle this.

You can make a garden table with your own hands from improvised materials, which many will seem absolutely useless. We offer you unusual ideas for giving, which relate to the creation of various garden furniture and tables as well. Look at the photo garden tables and choose the best option for yourself. When implementing any idea for a summer residence, you can show imagination and make the changes you need.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands: photo

The garden wooden table is the aesthetics of the natural landscape of the country house and ease of manufacture. Photos and detailed instructions will help you make a garden table with your own hands. Before you start making a garden table with your own hands, prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Be sure to look at the photo how to make a garden table with your own hands: they show the production process.

This is a very stylish and original table that can be used both in the garden and in the country interior. The costs are minimal, because it is based on a pallet of bricks.

You will need:

• pallet from under bricks;
• swivel wheels with a diameter of approximately 10-12 cm;
• antiseptic stain for a tree of the color you need;
• sandpaper;
• screwdriver;
• ordinary screws;
• screws for metal tiles;
• brushes.

The procedure for making furniture and detailed instructions on how to make a garden table with your own hands.

Sand the pan well: first with coarse sandpaper, then with fine sandpaper. You can also use a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Attach swivel wheels to the underside of the pallet. To do this, use ordinary screws, on which put on the washers removed from the screws for metal tiles (since there are large holes on the bases of the wheels). You can directly fasten the wheels with metal screws, but then you will need a special screwdriver bit.

Cover the table with a wood stain, best containing wax. At the same time, the table can be tinted to look like walnut, rosewood, oak, pine, larch or use a transparent antiseptic to only highlight the structure of the tree without changing its color.

Please Note: Not all pallets are the same! They come in different sizes and with different gaps between the slats. Choose the tray that suits you best.

Round garden tables made of wood and their photos

If you have an old round garden table, don't rush to throw it away! Of course, it is completely out of sight and broken, but for your garden this is a real find. In a new guise, it will decorate not only a relaxing corner in the garden, but also a country house.

Garden tables made of wood will go with many styles as their decor is versatile.

Look at the photo garden tables with similar design options:

You will need:

• old wooden table
• putty for wood;
• old tile of various colors or broken tiles;
• white facade paint;
• tile adhesive;
• white grout for joints;
• priming;
• copper and gold contours for glass;
• putty knife;
• sponge.

Manufacturing procedure

Fill up cracks and dents and sand the table top with fine-grained sandpaper, then prime everything but the countertop. Paint the table with white paint (except for the countertop).

Wrap the tile in a piece of drape or other dense soft cloth and break it with a hammer. Apply an even layer of tile adhesive on top of the countertop and lay out the surface of the countertop with tile fragments on it. Trim the edges with a trowel. When your mosaic has dried a little, wipe the surface with a sponge dipped in water to clean the surface of any traces of glue.

After the final drying of the glue, process the seams between the pieces of tiles with white grout.

Paint the sides of the tabletop with white paint, then decorate them, as well as the legs of the table, with ornaments using gold and copper outline on the glass.

plastic garden table

Typically, garden furniture is made of plastic, wood, rattan, presented in soft natural colors.

However, if a bright multi-colored “character” appears in the garden, especially from colored glass, then all attention is immediately riveted to it.

And it is made from an old broken flower stand, a lid from a metal barrel and ordinary round glass.

However, all these elements can be replaced with scraps of colored plastic.

So, let's take a closer look at how to make a plastic dining table with your own hands.

You will need:

• metal detail from a flower stand;
• a lid from a metal garden barrel;
• round glass with a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• a piece of sealing rubber for windows;
• paper;
• pencil;
• copper circuit for glass;
• copper acrylic paint;
• white paint on rust;
• acrylic primer;
• means for obtaining a patina;
• glass paints.

Manufacturing procedure

On a piece of paper, draw a circular pattern in the Moroccan style. Then enlarge the pattern to the desired size using a photocopier. Put the pattern under the glass and circle it with a copper outline. Dry the circuit properly for the time recommended by the manufacturer (usually 8 to 24 hours).

Paint the inner parts of the ornament with bright stained glass paints. It is important that the paints you use are evenly distributed within the outlined area, so practice on a small piece of glass before you paint the countertop, determining the right amount of paint for the fragments. Dry the finished painting well.

If desired, add additional decorative elements to the finished painting with a copper outline.

Paint the barrel lid white over rust. Now let's deal with the main part of the countertop.

Prime the part of the stand and paint it with copper acrylic paint, then apply a patina product in some places.

When the "foot" of the table is dry, glue on the parts that will be in contact with the table top, small pieces of window seal. This will keep her well.

Assemble the table: put the painted glass on the lid of the barrel, and put this "tabletop" on the footboard.

Ideas for a garden and a summer residence from scrap materials with your own hands: photo and description

Further on this page you can see ideas for giving from improvised materials and a photo of the process of putting them into practice. We without fail accompany all ideas for a garden and giving with our own hands photos from various angles so that you can clearly see the whole process of creativity.

Folding garden table

Try to make a folding garden table for your hozblok universal purpose. It looks nice and saves space. And most importantly - it is very convenient and will help you keep a small hozblok in perfect order: everything is in sight, and nothing will be lost.

You will need:

• a piece of edged pine board measuring approximately 60 X 20 cm;
• two ready-made wooden mounts for the shelf;
• facade paint light yellow;
• red acrylic paint;
• small glass jars with screw caps
• screws;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Manufacturing procedure

Sand the board and paint it light yellow.

Decorate the ends of the board with a simple ornament using red paint.

Paint the jar lids red.

Attach jar lids to the board at regular intervals using small screws.

Hang the finished shelf on the wall of the hozblok or workshop using ready-made fasteners (the covers should be on the underside of the shelf).

Fill the jars with screws, nails, small fasteners, staples, nuts and other household items and screw the jars to the lids.

You can decorate the jars with simple painting, appliqué and in any other way.

Interesting ideas for giving, home, garden and vegetable garden with your own hands with a photo

And now we offer interesting ideas for a summer house and a garden with our own hands in relation to other interior items necessary for the household.

This will be a comfortable seat where you can relax after garden worries. All of our interesting ideas for a summer house and garden are accompanied by photos and can be implemented using various materials at hand.

Make a garden ottoman out of old car tires. There are practically no costs, and the effect will exceed all expectations. This ottoman is not simple, but an ottoman-chest. In it you can store garden trifles. Nobody will have this for sure!

You will need:

• two old car tires of the same diameter;
• thick plywood;
• beautiful textiles of your choice;
• facade paint that matches your fabric in color;
• white spray facade paint;
• "liquid nails" or silicone sealant;
• construction stapler;
• jigsaw.

Manufacturing procedure

Coat both tires with white spray paint, dry. Then paint both tires light green paint, thicker layer, dry.

Lay the tires one on top of the other, fastening them with "liquid" nails or silicone sealant. To do this, apply "dotted" small portions of any of the funds in a circle on the surface of the lower tire.

Saw out a circle from plywood, slightly smaller in diameter than the diameter of the tire. Cover it with fabric and secure the fabric with a stapler.

Lay the fabric-covered circle on top of the tire base. That's it! The seat is removable, so the inside of the ottoman can be used as a place to store small things.

Tire paint colors and seat colors can be customized to match your garden style and other garden furniture colors. In any case, the ottoman will look impressive

Garden furniture: tables and benches

Garden tables and benches are indispensable attributes of a cozy and comfortable country life, in which it is possible to exercise solitude in a shady corner of the garden.

How garden furniture tables are made, you could already fully recognize their examples published above. And now we offer to make an exclusive design of a garden bench with your own hands.

A garden bench is not just a necessary thing, but a very necessary one.

It is so convenient to take care of plantings and weed, not kneeling, but sitting on a bench, especially one as beautiful as this one. Even if it stands just like that, it is already a garden decoration, no worse than any figurine.

Use green paint to add pictures: finish the branches and leaves.

Place accents with gold paint: make painterly strokes on the drawings, emphasizing lines and details.

When the bench is dry, coat the entire bench, including the pasted pictures, with clear or lightly tinted wood preservative.

If desired, the bench can be lightly tinted with gray-blue acrylic paint, creating the effect of an old tree.

The dacha is a pleasant place not only for work, but also for recreation. In stores, you can find many offers for summer cottages, but a more economical option is to make country tables and chairs yourself.

Do-it-yourself country table

For the manufacture of furniture requires a serious approach, certain tools and skill. But you can make a simple and very economical option from wooden pallets.

Necessary materials:

• Sandpaper
• self-tapping screws
• pallets
• Wood primer
• Varnishes and paints for wood

Pallets must be cleaned with a grinder (for this you can use coarse sandpaper). Then process with fine-grained sandpaper, in order to facilitate the work, the paper can be fixed on a bar. Next, it is necessary to coat the pallets with a primer, if necessary, with paint and varnish.

If the finished furniture will be in the open air, the blanks must be varnished. So it lasts longer and lasts for several seasons. Before you start connecting pallets, you need to decide on the type and size, choose a photo of the table for giving on the Internet and make it.

Two or three pallets can be stacked on top of each other and fastened with self-tapping screws. If the table will be used at home, wheels can be attached to it for easy movement.

You can also attach ready-made metal legs to the pallets and thus make a full-fledged dining table. You can also make budget chairs, benches and sofas for the veranda from pallets. This material is the most affordable, you can buy new pallets, or get previously used ones for free.

Folding summer table

Required materials and tools:

• Hacksaw
• Screwdriver
• Roulette
• A hammer
• Drill
• Pencil
• Wooden lath 5 m long
• Wooden slab for countertop (board, plywood or OSB)
• Screws and nuts

When using plywood, it turns out not at all an expensive option. If you have woodworking tools at hand, it is better to use them, so the process will go faster.

First, cut the blanks into the following sizes:

• 4 pieces of 70 cm
• 4 pieces of 45 cm
• Tabletop measuring 45 cm by 65 cm.

In order to properly assemble the folding mechanism, you need to find drawings of country folding tables on the Internet, or step-by-step photographs.

On parts of 70 cm, measure 40 cm from the edge and mark with a pencil, then drill holes. We connect the two legs together with a screw, on the other hand we tighten the nut, we also do the same with the second pair.

We divide the tabletop into two equal parts of 32.5 cm each and cut it. On parts of 45 cm each (for a folding mechanism), we retreat 1 cm from the end of the rail and drill holes. Parts for the folding mechanism must be rounded so that they do not cling to each other.

According to the scheme in the photographs, we collect all the details together and get a folding table. Next, the table must be primed, painted and varnished. When using these dimensions, a very compact table is obtained, it will be convenient to take it with you to nature and carry it in the car.

Additional Information

The design of the folding table can be adapted to your size and make drawings yourself. To make the table look better, the tabletop can be smoothly rounded.

Wood primer helps protect the wood from insects, so don't neglect its use.

When painting tables and chairs, you need to use new brushes, during the process you need to make sure that the paint does not bubble. Usually painted in two stages, you can proceed to the finishing stage after the first coat of paint has dried.

Tables for the street must be varnished so that dampness and mechanical stress do not affect the wood. This must be done in a well-ventilated area; it is better not to take the product outside until it is completely dry.

If the structure is large and there is no way to bring it into the room, you can varnish it on a covered veranda, where moisture cannot harm.

Varnishes vary in degree of protection, some protect only from moisture, others will help to avoid minor scratches, they can also be with the addition of paint.

When making wooden tables, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, use cotton gloves for work, and be careful when working with tools. If the work takes place on the street, you need to ensure that moisture does not get on extension cords and sockets.

DIY country table photo

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the cavities are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular with book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be "brought to mind", and spring - almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the table top, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "alive" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class