We install without distribution boxes. Wiring without junction boxes. What is a junction box

Requires schematic
- Prerequisites
- Where to begin?
- Determining contacts by testing
- Protruding wires
- Junction box
- Connection without junction box

A two-key switch is a pair of independent single switches combined in a single design. The benefit of its use is obvious - for hidden installation, one mounting box (socket box) is required, and there is no need to make an additional hole in the wall, especially if it is concrete, and the price of one paired one is lower than two separate ones.

It is used to turn on adjacent lighting sections - these can be a bathroom and toilet, light bulbs in the corridor, groups of LED light sources or a chandelier with separate switching of lamps.

Requires schematic

For a correct and reliable connection, you must first imagine the entire algorithm of actions, and for this a diagram must be drawn. An experienced electrician can do such simple electrical work without a piece of paper with a drawing, but only because it is “drawn” in his memory due to work experience. For a beginner, it would be correct to start with a piece of paper.

Connection diagram for two-button light switch

Prerequisites

We have phase and zero coming from the shield, we immediately designate them with the appropriate color. If the wiring is one color, you must definitely find out where the phase is using an indicator. It is prohibited to supply phase voltage to an electrical appliance bypassing the switch - safety depends on this.

After determining the identity of the wires, you must remember to turn off the power. As a rule, switches are connected using a junction box into which the network wires go. Let's say different groups of electric lighting devices are connected, and the cables to them have already been laid, all that remains is to bring them to the connections at the points indicated in the diagram.

The wires leading down to the switch and exiting through a fixed socket box must also be laid. You cannot first make the connection, and then lay and fix the electrical wiring - the contact may suffer from mechanical stress, or the wire may even break off so that it can no longer be pulled to the connection point.

Where to begin?

The answer to the question of how to connect a two-key switch consists of two parts:

installation of wires in the distribution box at the top;
connection at the bottom of the terminals of the switch itself to the switched conductors.

There is no fundamental difference where to start. But it’s better to start with the switch, because then, making connections in the box, having a tester, it’s easier to find the common wire and switched lines by switching the keys. But below, having single-color wiring coming out of the distribution box, it will be possible to determine its connection points only experimentally.

When laying a wire to a double light switch, it must be laid with a three-core wire

Determining contacts by testing

The core has three contacts, as a rule, they are marked accordingly, a diagram may even be drawn. If for some reason it is impossible to visually determine the identity of the terminals, or this must be done with the wires already connected to the switch in the box, then they are determined using a tester.

To do this, the keys are moved to the off position, the measuring probes are connected and one of the keys is turned on. If nothing happens, it is returned to its original position and another one is turned on. If in this case there is no signal, then turn on the keys simultaneously - the current will flow through the closed contacts and the connecting bus of the common contact.

indicator screwdriver. “Continuity” of the phase wire

Thus, the probes point to two commutation lines. Then one of the probes is moved to the found common contact, and the left and right keys are determined by alternately switching on. Empirically, you need to find such an arrangement so that one probe always remains on one common terminal, and the other shows the operation of each key in turn.

It is important not to confuse them, although this does not matter much for a chandelier, but it will be inconvenient if the light on the left is turned on with the right button, and vice versa.

Protruding wires

Connecting a wall switch does not cause any problems. In the case of a hidden installation, the decision on how to connect a double switch comes down to answering the question: “How long should the wires protrude from the socket box?”

Protruding wires from under the socket are approximately 10-20 cm

There is an unspoken rule for electricians: the wire must freely reach the corresponding terminals of the switch turned down with the keys, horizontally leaning against the bottom point of the wiring box. Thus, the switch core will rotate as if on a horizontal axis, entering the socket box together with the wires.

Some electricians provide extra wires and bend them in the form of a springy snake. The main thing is that the switch fits freely inside and does not rest against the wires. Of course, you need to connect them to the terminals very carefully, otherwise they may jump out of the terminals at the time of installation.

The switch, inserted all the way, is held by hand and secured using evenly tightened bolts that push apart the hardware clamps. Fixing should only be done if the socket box itself is already securely fastened. Clicking the keys completes the installation.

Junction box

To connect the wires at the points indicated in the diagram, you can use twisting, insulating it with insulating tape, but the reliability and aesthetic appearance will not be at the highest level.

Ways to twist wires

Instead of electrical tape, you can use a heat-shrink tube - when contracted, it will press the contacting surfaces more tightly, which will add reliability to the contact. It is undesirable to use twisting if there is a possibility of error - when untwisting the wires, the metal of the core cracks, loses strength and conductivity.

Single-core and stranded wires cannot be connected in this way - in this case it is better to solder them or use crimping with special sleeves. And it is absolutely unacceptable to twist copper and aluminum together - electrochemical corrosion processes will occur at the point of contact, leading to loss of contact. As an alternative to twisting, you can use WAGO self-clamping connections.

Block in a box - a simple solution
Often, distribution boxes are sold together with mounting blocks that have a set of terminals for convenient connection of wires.

The type and variety do not matter, the main thing is that they can withstand voltage and current, and are suitable for the wall material. We carry out the connection as in the above diagram, connecting the corresponding wires at the indicated points.

We start with the phase conductor, connect it to the terminal, clamp it, and immediately connect the wire from the switch to it. Then we repeat this procedure for the remaining terminals. It is always important to label the wires, this will save time in identifying their identity.

Connecting a light switch to two light bulbs

Connection without junction box

According to the PUE, there must always be access to distribution boxes. In houses and apartments where aesthetics come to the fore, a cover on the wall will not fit into the composition of the style, discordant with the surrounding environment. Covering it with expensive wallpaper is also not the best solution - if you need access, you will have to tear it off.

Therefore, recently they have begun to use progressive methods for connecting switches, requiring a little more cable, but excluding the junction box. The fact is that a recessed socket box is used, and all connections are made in it.

Recessed socket box instead of distribution box

The phase wire is connected directly to the common terminal of the switch, the wires going to the light bulbs are also connected directly to the switched outputs, in the socket box only the neutral conductors are connected. With sufficient skill, this connection method can be carried out in a regular-sized installation box.

The entire connection diagram is in the socket box. The principle of connecting wires is the same

When replacing a switch, the old wire may break off. You can extend it using the following terminal block:

Link

The correct connection of the wires in the junction box is a significant factor in the reliability of your electrical network. And given that more than 50% of all connections are concentrated in junction boxes, then this element of your electrical network of a house or apartment becomes especially important. At the same time, one should not forget about the visibility of the connection, as well as its maintainability. Based on all this, let's dwell on the junction boxes in more detail.

First of all, let's dwell on the rules for mounting junction boxes. After all, the reliability of your electrical network depends on this. Moreover, these rules are quite logical and will not require serious investments.

So:

First of all, it should be remembered that the junction box must be made of a material suitable for the installation surface. So on combustible surfaces, such as wood, junction boxes made of non-combustible materials should be installed. Usually it is metal.
If the junction box is mounted on a non-combustible surface, such as concrete, then boxes made of slow-burning materials can be used. Usually, for these purposes, standard boxes made of special plastic are used, which are widely available in hardware stores.
It is also worth remembering that, according to clause 2.1.22 of the Electrical Installation Code, a supply of wire must be provided at all branches and connections of conductors to ensure re-connection. The cost of following this rule will be mere pennies, but if it is necessary to reconnect, this reserve will become “golden”.
It is also worth specifying the location of the distribution boxes. In general, it is not standardized, but they are usually located at the entrance to the room from the side of the door handle. The height of the distribution box is usually 10-20 cm from the ceiling. This allows you to protect it as much as possible from accidental touch and visually hide it.

Connecting various electrical receivers in the junction box

Now you can directly examine the connection of the wires in the distribution box. After all, it largely depends on the type of device being connected, as well as on the number of these devices. Sometimes it is advisable to create two or even three distribution boxes for one room rather than trying to fit all the connections into one.

Connecting group wires

First of all, we need to determine whether we have an end or pass-through junction box. Ideally, each junction box should be an end box.

A terminal box is a junction box that does not have wires connecting it to other junction boxes. A pass-through is a box that has such a connection.

So:

The end distribution box contains three cores of the power cable or wire from which the end consumers are powered.

Note! There should be exactly three of these wires for a single-phase network. Of which, one neutral wire, according to clause 1.1.30 of the PUE, must have a blue color, one protective grounding wire, which is designated in yellow-green color, and a phase wire, which can have any other color designation.

The feed-through junction box has three supply wires, which are usually connected to the terminal block. The next distribution box is powered from the same terminal block. As a result, we get two wires connected to each other.
Another possible option is if for one group the box is an end box, and for another group it is a pass-through box. Moreover, usually the wire for which the box is a feedthrough does not have any connections in it. It just runs along the box.

Connecting sockets

First of all, let's look at the connection of wires in the junction box at home when connecting an outlet. After all, this is one of the simplest connections.

So, in the junction box we have three strands of the supply wire. As we have already said, this is phase, zero and ground, indicated by the corresponding colors.
To connect the socket, we need to connect the wire going directly to the socket to the corresponding cores of the power cable. In this case, the color coding must be observed.

There are times in electrical installation when it is more convenient and easier to make connections not in the distribution box, but not directly in the mounting housing of the switch or socket. This scheme has its pros and cons, but there are still many more disadvantages. In this article we will look at what wiring without junction boxes is and whether it is worth using this electrical installation option in an apartment or private house.

A case from one's life

I personally had a case where everything seemed to be discussed with the client, the number of points (sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes), their location, the nuances of subsequent wiring installation. They shook hands, an estimate was drawn up for installation. According to the plan drawn up by joint efforts, the wiring was carried out. And then one day, when everything seems to be coming to an imminent conclusion, the drywall is screwed in and the painters have putty on it, and I’m installing the transfer boxes and installation cups, before tomorrow’s installation of the fittings, the employer appears and stuns me with his idea: - “I want to bed arch with lighting. How can I do that?".

Well, the builders immediately agreed to do the arch for a day of work. This idea didn’t inspire me much, since on the wall to which the arch will be attached there are only two sockets for connecting a charger and a floor lamp. It was not possible to run the wire to the junction box in the opposite corner. Moreover, it would be difficult to do this without damaging a couple of square meters of drywall.

That is why we had to fence off the garden, take power from the outlet, make a switch in a box with a switch and then lead it further to the arch lighting. This installation option is called wiring without a junction box. Below are diagrams for connecting a two-key switch and two light sources.

The video below shows a clear example of wiring without wiring in an apartment:

Conclusion

The advantage of electrical wiring without junction boxes is clarity and ease of installation, subject to compliance with accepted safety rules, which state that any electrical contacts or connections must be easily accessible for maintenance, monitoring and repair. As we know, the contact point, in any wiring design, is a weak point.

There is often a debate on forums and websites about the possibility of installing electrical wiring without junction boxes and completely abandoning these electrical products. For my part, as the author of this article, I am against “simplified wiring”“, since the norms of the PUE were hard-won and empirically proven in their feasibility.

Wiring without junction boxes (below in the photo) has the right to exist only in isolated cases, and complete wiring in this form is not permissible. In addition, this type of installation is very wasteful, 30% - 40% more wire is spent on it compared to classic installation.

This article will be useful to those who do their own electrical installation in an apartment or private house. The most important aspect of good electrical installation is the correct connections in junction boxes. While running wires to sockets and switches is not a big deal, you need to think a little when wiring them into a box.

cross-sections of copper conductor for various current loads
Current in A	1	2	3	4	5	6	10	16	20	25	32	40	50	63
S-in mm 2	0,17	0,33	0,52	0,67	0,84	1	1,7	2,7	3,3	4,2	5,3	6,7	8,4	10,5
Ø in mm	0,45	0,65	0,81	0,92	1,02	1,13	1,45	1,87	2,05	2,32	2,60	2,92	3,27	3,66

Based on the calculated values, a 2.5 mm 2 wire can withstand a load of up to 16A. Data have been collected on the approximate powers and currents consumed by household appliances for various purposes. Using this information, you can guess how many and what devices to include in the outlet group.

Type of household appliances	power in W	current in amperes
Old style incandescent lamps	60 – 250	0,3 – 1
Small-sized heating appliances: teapots, coffee pots and boilers	1000 – 2000	5,5 – 10
Stationary and portable electric stoves	1000 – 6000	6 – 55
Microwaves of various brands	1500 – 2200	8 – 10,5
Kitchen electric meat grinders for non-industrial purposes, for home use.	1500 – 2200	8 – 10,5
Toasters for baking bread	500 – 1500	2,5 – 8
Equipment for preparing grilled dishes	1200 – 2000	7,5 – 8
Blenders and mixers	500 – 1500	2,5 – 9
Food processors	500 – 1500	2,5 – 9
Electric oven	1000 – 2000	5,5 – 8
dishwashing machines	1000 – 2000	5,5 – 8
Household washing machines	1200 – 2000	5.5 – 8
Electric shoe or clothes dryers	2000 – 3000	8 – 12
Irons for non-industrial use	1200 – 2000	5.5 – 8
Floor and portable vacuum cleaners	800 – 2000	3.5 – 8
Spiral heaters	500 – 3000	1.8 – 12
Hand-held hair dryers	500 – 1500	1.5 – 7
Split systems and air conditioners	1000 – 3000	6 – 12
computers	300 – 800	0.8 – 3,2
Hand-held power tools (grinder, drill, hammer drills, jigsaw, etc.)	500 – 2500	1.8 – 12

Features of installing sockets without branch boxes

From the machine in the switchboard, the wire of the socket group is laid in a common gate with cables of other groups. In places of branching, it does not start up in junction boxes, it leaves along its route in a separately laid strobe. In the sockets, a loop is made 15 cm long. This part of the cable is intended for cutting and connecting to the contacts. This is a proven method of laying the cable, then there are several methods for cutting the cable and connecting to the contact group of sockets.

Installation of wiring with a broken line

To connect the wires to the terminals, the loop is cut in the middle, the outer sheath is removed from the cable by 10 - 15 cm, the ends of all wires are stripped 1-1.5 cm from the insulation. The bare ends are attached to the contacts in accordance with the purpose of the colors.

Blue wire - to the neutral contact;
Red brown or black for phase contact;
Yellow - green to the ground terminal.

On each contact, two wires coming from the switchboard and going to the next outlet are clamped.

Everything would be fine if it were not for the contradictions with clause 1.7.144 of the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules). The grounding wire, designated PE, must be attached to a separate terminal from each consumer (socket with the household appliance turned on). The yellow-green conductor must be solid along its entire length, from the distribution board to the outlet. Permanent connections in distribution boxes in the form of welding, soldering, or crimping with special sleeves are allowed. In our case, there are no separation boxes, so this method in relation to the PE wire does not meet the requirements of the guidelines for the installation of electrical wiring. Some electricians neglect this, which is a big mistake.

Sections of grounding wire connected between sockets may lose reliable contact. This is facilitated by prolonged load with high currents, an iron or electric heater, hair dryer and other household appliances. When heated, the metal elements on the contacts expand; after disconnecting the load, they cool down, over time this leads to a weakening of the bolted connection of the contact group. The bolts on the contacts must be tightened periodically, otherwise this may lead to a fire.

In the case of a PE conductor, the danger doubles; it is the most important element in the chain of protection of people; the RCD (touch protection device) eliminates electric shock and instantly turns off the network. If in the circuit on one of the sockets the ground wire does not have reliable contact, this socket and all subsequent ones will be left without protection. There will be a threat of current passing to the body of household appliances connected to sockets, the protection will not work, touching the metal parts of household appliances will lead to electric shock. Therefore, electricians who use this connection method take great responsibility on their conscience.

This method allows you to comply with the connection rules regarding the ground wire. Without cutting the wires on the loops in the socket boxes, the outer sheath is removed from the cable. The wires in the loop of each conductor are folded, the insulation is removed at the tip, while the current-carrying core remains intact.

The bare ends are attached to the contacts, in this case, even if the contacts on one of the sockets become loose, this will not de-energize the remaining sockets. In the case of a PE conductor, the sockets will be connected to the protection system, since the wires remain intact, there will be no break in the general circuit, only one socket will turn off.

In this case, the circuit is assembled in the classic version, as in a junction box. Only the outlet to the outlet will be very short, no more than 10 cm, and not from the ceiling to the floor, as is done using junction boxes.

The ends of the incoming and outgoing cables for cutting and connecting should also be made shorter, no more than 10 cm. This will allow the insulated twists to be compactly packaged at the bottom of the socket box so that they do not interfere with the installation of the socket itself.

Connecting wires in a socket box

Features of installation of lighting networks without branch boxes

As in socket groups, the goal of the technique is to reduce contacts, labor costs and increase reliability. It is possible to use two-wire wires for single-key switches, but it is recommended to lay a cable with three wires. This is due to the fact that modern chandeliers and lamps have a terminal for the grounding wire on the body; it is better to comply with all safety requirements.

Network connection with single-key and two-key switches

From all of the above it follows that desoldering the box is a very simple process. It is enough to understand the designation and order of their connection.

Sequence of actions when installing and connecting the junction box

First, prepare everything you need for electrical installation work:

cables 3*2.5, VVG,
cables 2*2.5, AVVG,
two-gang switch,
fastenings,
lighting fixture,
socket,
round pliers,
roulette,
wire cutters,
pliers,
flat screwdriver,
hammer.

2) Applying markings. Mark the installation locations of electrical appliances and where the wires will pass.

3) Installation. First, turn off the power supply.

Route the wires to the junction box (it is better to lay the cable in pre-prepared grooves). Secure the wires using small nails or plastic staples.

What is an Electrical Junction Box for?

Almost every person, one way or another, has an idea of what a junction box looks like. But not everyone knows why it is actually needed and how it works. Let's consider the general data that we know about this electrical wiring element.

Distribution boxes vary depending on their shape, as well as the specific application. Some of them are rectangular and some are round. This setting does not affect functionality in any way.

Connecting and twisting electrical wires in a junction box

As for the features of application, there are:

distribution boxes for hidden wiring;
distribution boxes for open wiring.

They differ from each other in the method of fastening, some features of the device, and in some cases, in size. In any case, they have one single purpose - routing wires from the panel to separately located points of energy consumption, for example, switches, lamps, sockets. At the same time, the distribution of electricity must be uniform to avoid interruptions in the operation of devices.

To achieve this goal, electrical wiring is divided into separate lines or so-called groups. Separate wires are laid in each room, which will supply the devices with electricity, ensuring their operation. It is at this stage that distribution boxes appear. They are installed at nodal points where the wires are connected to each other.

It is necessary to buy a distribution box for electrical wiring, first of all, for reasons of fire safety. Since it is at the places where the wires are connected that the risk of a fire is greatest. If contact is broken, the resistance increases and the connection begins to heat up. In some cases, this may cause a fire.

Plastic distribution box for home

External electrical distribution boxes serve as an insulating layer between a potential fire source and surrounding objects. In addition, they also have a significant aesthetic role, hiding not always beautiful wire connections from view.

Is it possible to do without installation junction boxes?

Some argue that the presence of distribution boxes in the house is not at all necessary. But in fact, in order to do without them, it is necessary to lay a separate wire from the panel to each place where electricity is consumed. To do this, you will need to make many grooves in the wall that are deep and wide enough to lay wires in them in several rows. All this will entail additional costs of finance and effort.

If, when refusing to use junction boxes, you are guided by the fact that laying separate wires generally eliminates the presence of connections in the electrical wiring, and therefore is safer, then there is a good answer from experts. The connection of wires, carried out in accordance with all standards and the wiring diagram in the junction box, does not pose a danger. In any case, you can always seek help from specialists.

Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach.

Junction box: dimensions and prices

Each installation junction box has a number of its own characteristics, among which size and price play a special role. Let's consider the three most popular options that are usually installed in residential buildings:

Junction box 100x100x50 mm IP54.
Junction box 80x80x40 mm for outdoor mounting IP55.
Junction box IP65 88x88x53 mm.

The first option is one of the most accessible and at the same time widespread. For example, a Tyco distribution box can be purchased for only 50 rubles. Its low cost is due to domestic production, as well as minimal configuration (body and cover).

The second option also has a minimum cost - 46 rubles. It is made of propylene and LDPE. Of course, it cannot be said that it will ever be able to compete with metal junction boxes, but it more than fulfills its function of protecting wires from precipitation and wind.

Distribution box 80x80x40 mm for outdoor installation IP55

The third option will cost you a little more, about 211 rubles. At the same time, the characteristics and dimensions of the distribution box are not much different from the first two options. However, according to the manufacturer Hensel, the plastic used to make their products is of very high quality and meets all the requirements for electrical wiring elements.

Of course, these are all fairly simple and cheap options. Electrical distribution boxes with terminals will cost many times more. But even here we can say that their price is justified by the ease of connecting the wires and their further maintenance.

Helpful advice! If you don't want to skimp on safety, then you should consider purchasing an explosion-proof junction box.

Various types and types of junction boxes

Terminals occupy a special place in the arrangement of electrical wiring. Installation of a distribution box of this type is the easiest and does not require special skills. The bottom line is that the box is already equipped with special clamps that are designed to connect wires. Compared to conventional ones, such distribution boxes have a number of advantages:

installation and dismantling of conductors is carried out much faster, and there is no need to use any additional tools;
thanks to the use of a special paste, you can connect wires made of different materials, for example, copper and aluminum;
a special wire placement system helps maintain order in the box, which reduces the risk of a short circuit to zero;
The special design makes it easy to measure current without the need to remove insulating materials from the wires and does not affect the integrity of the system at all.

Junction box with terminals

For open wiring, these types of junction boxes have become the most popular option. After all, the absence of the need to twist and connect the wires yourself made using the terminals very convenient. Today there are many different options on sale, including an explosion-proof terminal box.

Connecting wires in a junction box for electrical wiring in various ways

It is generally accepted that good contact is the result of correct connection of wires to each other. If the work was not done well enough, this will immediately become noticeable due to weak contact or its complete absence. In addition, problems can arise at the moment when you plug in some fairly powerful device.

All this, of course, causes a lot of discomfort. And it is much easier to take care of this in advance, at the stage of installing electrical wiring, than to try to solve this problem over time. Let's look at the most popular ways to connect wires to each other:

twisting wires in the junction box;
crimping;
welding;
commissure;
use of contact screw clamps;
bolted connections;
self-clamps.

Bolted wire connections in a junction box

All these methods are quite simple to implement and do not require special skills. Let's look at each of them in more detail to get an idea of how best to connect the wires in the junction box.

How to properly connect wires in a junction box

In order to independently carry out all the work correctly, you should take into account only one main requirement that applies to the installation of distribution boxes: it is necessary to ensure free access to all wire connection points. This is necessary in case one of the sockets or switches malfunctions.

Note! If during initial installation the junction box is hidden behind the finishing coating, then at the first malfunction you will have to completely remove it in order to carry out repairs.

Distribution boxes must be placed so that they can be easily accessed if necessary.

The problem may not always be hidden there, but it will never be superfluous to check the presence of contact. Therefore, think through everything in advance so that any repair work can be carried out as easily and quickly as possible. In this case, connecting the wires in the junction box can be done in any way convenient for you, which will be discussed below.

Connecting wires in a junction box by twisting and crimping

Almost everyone knows how to twist cleaned wire ends. However, if we are talking about connecting wires in a junction box, it is worth remembering the regulatory documents that cover this issue.

Twisting is considered an unreliable connection option, since the contact area is very small, and you cannot count on full contact between the wires. In addition, over time, even this small contact tends to weaken, which makes it impossible to use powerful devices that place a serious load on the system.

A much more reliable method is considered to be crimping, for which a special connecting sleeve is used. The main parameter for its selection is the thickness of all the wires that will be placed in it. The material of manufacture can be either copper or aluminum, and the choice depends on what material the wires themselves are made of.

Stripping and crimping wires with sleeves

In order to ensure fixation, a special tool is used, with which the sleeve is compressed. This can only be done with press tongs. It is strictly not recommended to use pliers for this. Otherwise, this technology fully complies with all standards and requirements stipulated by regulatory documentation.

Here's how to connect the wires in this way:

the insulation is stripped from the wires taking into account the required length, that is, the length of the sleeve used;
the stripped ends of the wires are twisted and inserted into the sleeve;
the sleeve is crimped using press pliers;
The joint is insulated using electrical tape or heat shrink.

by welding

This method is considered to be very reliable, since the result is a single whole wire that is practically resistant to oxidation. By fusing the wires together, you get reliable contact that will not weaken over time. However, the implementation of this method is a little more complicated than the previous one, because you will need welding equipment and the ability to handle it.

List of tools that are necessary for wire welding work:

a welding machine with a power of at least 1 kW and rated at 24 W;
carbon electrode;
rosin or flux, which will further protect the metal part of the wires from oxidation;
personal protective equipment: glasses and gloves for welding.

If you have at least minimal skills in working with a welding machine, as well as all of the above components, further stages of work will not be particularly difficult for you. The insulation is removed from the wires, and their interior is cleaned with sandpaper until shiny.

Connecting wires by welding

After this, twist the wires in the traditional way and pour flux into the recess of the electrode. Press the wires against it and hold until you see a ball appear, the so-called contact point. After this, the process of connecting the wires can be considered complete. All that remains is to clean the joint from excess flux, varnish and insulate.

Connecting wires in a junction box using soldering

At first glance, this method is similar to the welding method, but it has a significant difference. Solder melted with a soldering iron is used to solder the wires together. This is an authorized method that ensures a reliable connection. Its only drawback is that it is not very reliable in places where the wires are subject to strong heat.

Note! If you do not know how to solder, then it is better not to use this method. The connection may turn out to be too fragile, and with the slightest mechanical load or tension, the wires may simply break at the point of soldering.

In order to solder the wires you will need:

soldering iron;
tin-lead solder;
rosin or flux;
if using flux, use a special brush for it;
fine sandpaper.

Connecting electrical wires by soldering

For the most part, the process of connecting wires is the same as in the case of welding. But it’s not the metal itself that melts, but only the solder. In this case, you need to carefully ensure that the molten solder flows inside the twist for a more reliable fastening. For the most part, this method is used to work with copper wires, however, provided you have special solder, the same can be done with aluminum.

Use of screw terminals and bolted connections

Using screw terminals is a fairly common method that is used by many due to its simplicity and convenience. However, it also has its disadvantages, which are useful to know about before starting work.

Initially, screw clamps were used to connect different metals that should not touch each other. For example, it could be copper and aluminum, which, in the presence of moisture, begin to interact with each other. Over time, this method began to be used for connecting wires. And it was even fixed at the level of regulatory documentation.

Note! When using this method on aluminum wires, you need to be aware that they will require periodic crimping to ensure that the contact does not lose or weaken over time.

Bolted connections are also quite often used to connect wires, however, if we are talking about hiding them afterwards in a junction box, then this method can be considered inappropriate. It's all about the cumbersome connections.

Connecting wires with connecting insulating clamps

In order to connect the wires in this way, you need to insert a steel washer between them. This happens in the following sequence: a washer is put on the bolt, then one of the wires is put on, and then another washer. This is followed by a second wire and a nut that tightens the system. Of course, all this also requires good insulation, so the connection volume is decent.

Helpful advice! This method has its advantages - it is well suited for joining different metals, since a special paste can be placed inside to prevent oxidation processes.

Installation of distribution box for electrical wiring

Having figured out the ways in which wires can be fastened together, let’s look at how to install the system itself using the example of an IP55 distribution box for outdoor installation 100x100x50 mm.

Most often, installation is carried out in a blank wall made of brick or concrete. This may cause some difficulties as you drill a niche for it, but the system will be securely fixed. If the box has round holes, then you can use special drill bits. For rectangular or square ones, use a grinder with a special diamond blade designed for working with concrete.

After the niche is ready, be sure to try on the junction box for it to make sure that everything is prepared correctly. The distribution box must be completely placed in the wall so that after installation its front surface is at the same level as the wall.

Some junction boxes have special plugs that are specifically designed to insert cables in these places. They must be carefully broken or cut out, while maintaining the integrity of the overall structure. The ends of the electrical wiring are inserted into them according to the diagram.

Installation of external distribution box

Once you are sure that all the wires have been inserted into the junction box, you can begin preparing the mortar to fix it. The fixation principle is very simple:

a certain amount of solution is placed into the niche prepared for the junction box using a spatula;
the box with the cables already installed is pressed inside as deeply as possible;
excess solution protruding from the sides is removed;
if there is such a need, the box can be held with your hand in the first few minutes to allow the solution to set a little.

Helpful advice! Instead of mortar, you can use alabaster. It dries much faster and at the same time can withstand the weight of the box just as well.

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I found myself in a situation where the renovation was nearing completion. Electrically - wall slitting, cable laying, wire routing - everything was done in accordance with the original plan. The number of points has increased: sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes. The installation of the electrical wiring was carried out by a responsible employee, I had no complaints.

New electrical wishes

And so, at the completion stage, when all that remained was to hang the wallpaper and apply decorative plaster, the desire arose to install an additional lamp in the recreation area above the sofa.

You can install a floor lamp, but these wires are on the floor... My wife is categorically against it: the wires are an obstacle to quick cleaning. The cat is in favor, but his opinion is not taken into account due to suspicions of vandalism.

My manly solution is to make this additional food point no matter what. I contact an electrician: I want a lamp in the wall, preferably two. He explains to me: there are no problems, you just need to remove the drywall and, according to the rules of electrical installation work, pull the wires to the junction box again.

Professional look

I'm not an expert, and redoing the wall means increasing the estimate, so I continue to insist. This is what he answered me:

“I propose the option of laying wiring without a junction box. It is possible to take power from a nearby outlet, make a connection in a box with a switch and install a lamp in the wall. But this is a violation of fire safety rules.”

Yes, sure. Electrical distribution boxes are used precisely for this purpose - to ensure fire safety. It insulates wire connections from flammable wall materials. At the same time, he himself was against such a scheme. They say that no self-respecting electrician will violate the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) standards. But, seeing how much effort and money was spent on repairs, he agreed to resolve my issue as a special case.

While he worked, I watched and we talked about the pros and cons of running wires without a junction box. Here you can see the diagram and video for clarity.

Junction box: pros and cons

The whole conversation can be summarized in the following table.

Electrics with junction boxes	Electrics without junction boxes
Fire safety is ensured by insulating wire connections from flammable wall materials.	There is no insulation of connections of heating wires. This may cause a fire.
Aesthetic appearance of junction box covers hidden inside the wall.	The wiring is not visible at all, as it is located under a layer of plaster or completely behind the drywall.
Optimal material consumption and wiring costs.	An increase in material consumption by 30-40% and the cost of electrical wiring, wide grooves in the walls, if there is no work with drywall.

A sane person who values safety, his money and strives to reduce costs, installing distribution (junction) boxes is the most acceptable scheme when installing electrical wiring.

Aesthetics of distribution boxes

If aesthetics is of paramount importance, yet distribution tanks are the visible part of the electrical system in the house, you can use the following tips:

choose places behind furniture to install distributors;
if you plan to have a suspended ceiling, hide the boxes above it;
lids installed flush with a light wall are not visible;
cover everything with wallpaper if you are confident in the quality of the work of the invited electrician. Then you won’t have to look into distribution boxes for years! In case of problems, you can use the diagram. The most extreme method of searching for a lid is tapping; it has never failed anyone.

Conclusion

I said goodbye to the electrician, satisfied with the explanations and responsiveness, and concluded:

Wiring without junction boxes is possible. Visual and simple installation is easy to perform. Compliance with safety rules is achieved by creating access to each connection and contact for monitoring and repair. Although, it would take 30-40% more wires than I originally planned;
For me, as a user, operational safety is important. In addition, if there is a need to repair the wiring, another technician can easily find a separate junction box;
ideally, when the electrical design is well thought out, the distribution boxes are hidden from view and fit organically into the interior, during the renovation there are no crazy ideas for altering power points, lamps and the like.

I wish you ideal electrical wiring diagrams, timely new ideas and competent specialists!

There aren't many people who don't know what a junction box is. Nevertheless, it would be useful to remind you that this is a round or rectangular plastic container with a lid and holes on the sides, intended for switching (connecting) electrical wires.

To provide all energy-consuming devices in an apartment or house (light bulbs, lamps, washing machines, televisions, computers, etc.) with electricity, it is necessary to route wires from the distribution panel to the points of consumption - sockets and switches.

Walls in the kitchen above the table: what instead of plates?

Pieces of glass remain on the film. Tempered glass is very tough, but broken glass breaks into small pieces with sharp edges. After tempering, the glass cannot be cut, so any holes such as electrical outlets are glazed first. It can also be used to produce gypsum components. For internal use.

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The enamel used; If wiped, the decorative layer is damaged. Security is high. Therefore, the electrical circuit from which the bath is to be supplied must be equipped with a 30 mA differential circuit breaker.

Blinds - protect and protect

They decided to install external blinds. There are practically no problems with lowering and raising them. This can be done manually or electrically. And if electrically, the blinds can be freely grouped, connected to time controls, twilight sensors, and even turned on the system.

This must be done in such a way as to ensure uniform distribution of electricity throughout all rooms.

To do this, the electrical wiring is divided into separate lines. Each room has its own supply wires, to which all energy consumers in the room are connected.

Instead of a coal boiler

Installation stage. Then some solutions, such as electric underfloor heating or hydronic underfloor heating, may not be possible. What is the strength of the ladder? Manufacturers in their catalogs. According to the new standard - the power of radiators. Since the power of both heaters is 4 or 6 kW. Typically, all devices above 3.5 kW do not have a standard connector. The comfort of using this type of heater depends on. Once the screed is finished and the new tiles are laid, the floor will only be 1.5cm high.

At certain nodal points the wires are connected to each other. At such points, distribution boxes are installed, inside which connections are located.

primary goal distribution boxes– ensuring fire safety. Wire connection points are the most dangerous from a fire point of view. Insufficiently tight contact creates high resistance in the connection and leads to its heating, sometimes leading to a fire.

Rectangular, square, round

You should also think about the number and location of sockets. Connections to shower mixer and concealed - connected to concealed box. Electronically controlled or illuminated devices must be plugged into an electrical outlet. The shower columns are connected at the bottom.

White, and we won't be convinced it's any different - until we try the range of modern paints available on the market. Only then will we see how many types of whites can be squeezed out of ordinary tin. Sockets are “torn out” from wall cans, sparking or heating up. Also, don't overload individual plugs by using splices and connecting too many devices. This may cause a short circuit and fire.

Junction box isolates the connection point from flammable wall materials, eliminating the risk of fire. In addition to this main goal, there is a secondary one. Twisted wires that are not hidden in a box do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

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Warranty: 3 years for performance. Sticker cartridges are also used for gluing wood. Plastics - solvents or dispersion adhesives, depending on the type of plastic. Expanded polystyrene is used for special adhesives and masses in which.

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Table lamp with clover motif. Electrical installations, holes and channels are provided for wiring and installation pipes.

Kitchen - design principles

Colored collided floor tiles - terracotta. Sockets and switches Accessories in electrical installations. They are installed after the ends of preserved walls where electrical cables are used.

By type of design, distribution boxes can be internal, designed for embedding into the wall (for connecting hidden wiring), and overhead, installed on the wall (for open wiring).

Is it possible to do without junction boxes at all?

Theoretically, yes. But to do this, you will need to connect the distribution panel and each place of electricity consumption in the apartment with a separate wire. This will lead to a large consumption of electrical wiring and the need to make wide and deep grooves in order to be able to lay several rows of wire in them.

As in external blinds installed in windows. Because of this similarity, it is sometimes called a rollerball or bolt action. The roller roller, which moves in the side guides, rolls into a special shaft installed in a cassette mounted inside or on.

The main challenge installers face when implementing a CCTV system is selecting the appropriate fiber optic cable and cable topology for the installation. Since the most common questions involve installing poles or lamps, all examples apply to this type of installation, but the information is also relevant to other types of installations.

Ultimately, the disadvantages of this method will outweigh the disadvantages many times over. use of junction boxes. Savings due to abandoning the latter will be many times depreciated by increased costs for electrical wiring.

One can sometimes hear this as an argument against the use of junction boxes; Although laying a separate line to each point of consumption is economically inferior to the option with junction boxes, it is safer, since it eliminates the connection of wires at nodal points.

In general, when choosing equipment and cables, both elements should be compatible. If the connection between the camera and the switch is more than 2 km, you need to install single-mode fiber. With such high throughput, single-mode fiber should be the preferred solution. The range of single-mode fiber cables is extensive, which allows you to choose the optimal cable, and if necessary, the transmission line can be extended by 2 km in the future.

The cost of multimode cables is even higher as a result of the more complex manufacturing process. So, all the arguments for single-mode solutions. The only argument for choosing multimode fiber cable is the general belief that this type of fiber is much easier to splice. However, for video surveillance systems, cable runs are short and optical power budgets are high, so weld accuracy and attenuation are not as important. Thus, a common option is to install mechanical splices with an attenuation of up to 1 dB.

There is only one answer to this. Correct, professionally executed absolutely safe. While everyone has the right to their own point of view, the option of using junction boxes is still more preferable than without them.

Distribution boxes are installed at a distance of 10-30 cm from the ceiling - depending on the height of the latter.

Of course, regardless of the solution chosen, the installer must ensure that the welds are as precise and as good as possible! Therefore, in practice, the choice of fiber type is not important in this respect. Benefits of choosing a single-mode fiber cable. Easier to select due to the wide range of cables available on the market, capable of transmitting signals over distances of tens of kilometers, taking advantage of lower equipment specific pricing compared to multimode fiber due to lower production costs. Transfer more cables with small bend radius, from 7.5mm. . The inconvenience of choosing single-mode fiber cables.

When wiring is hidden, the boxes are embedded in the wall, so that the top of their covers is flush with the surface of the wall. With open wiring, the boxes are installed without embedding into the wall on its surface.

PUE (electrical installation rules) require that access to the box cover be provided for inspection if necessary. With the overhead installation method, this requirement is met automatically.

Different fiber options may cause splicing problems, it is recommended to insert cables into the system in exceptional cases, and depending on the equipment, the use of optical attenuators may be required over short distances - this information should be found in the transmitter and receiver specifications, on the transmitter and receiver sensitivity. A separate cable for each rack is the most flexible and fastest solution considering the splicing and protection of optical fibers. However, cabling requires more effort due to the much greater distance between the cables.

When installing inside the wall, you need to take care of two things. Firstly, it is necessary that the location of the box be known and access to it be provided, and secondly, that the aesthetics of the room should not suffer. The first requirement is more important and must be met in any case.

The second is subjective, depending on the taste of the owner. Aesthetics can be achieved in different ways. When applying wallpaper, carefully trim it around the lid, leaving it in place. This will make it possible to see the location of the box and at the same time make it practically no different from neighboring places.

In this topology, the structure of the cable is not a significant factor, as it does not fan out indefinitely. Of course, the cable must meet all the requirements for proper operation, depending on the environment in which it is installed. An important parameter is the tensile strength sufficient for wired cables. The most popular types of cables used in such situations.

Regardless of the number of rooms per pole, transmission is carried out using only two optical fibers. However, he recommends at least a minimum of redundancy - the installation of 4-fiber cables. The choice of radial topology also saves space on the pole - the optical cable can be connected directly to the junction box with the necessary equipment: media converter, video converter, power supply, etc. The optical fibers of the cable must be terminated in pigtails.

With a different way of decorating the walls, care must be taken that the surface of the cover is the same color as the wall, and that it is possible to remove the cover without destroying the wall in this place.

When installing stretch ceilings, small hatches must be installed to access the boxes (if they are hidden behind the ceiling surface).

Welds must be protected in terminal or distribution boxes. The pigtail must be connected to adapters and does not recommend connecting them directly to optical devices! Connections must be made using patch cords that connect the opposite sides of the adapters to the inputs of devices responsible for converting optical and electrical signals. In the future, performing maintenance or service will not involve the risk of damaging the cable, but only for the patch cord.

Components to implement the connection point in a column-mounted metal outdoor cabinet can provide a ready-to-use solution for a variety of applications. The waterproof cabinet with lock can be mounted on a pole using a pole holder. The 5 cable entries are protected by rubber seals.

How to connect wires in a junction box?

The PES states that the connection of wires should be made by welding, soldering, crimping or using screw and bolt clamps.

If out of all the methods you choose the one that is the best according to the criterion of manufacturability + reliability, then this can be considered twisting wires followed by soldering (welding). The use of clamps is also technologically advanced, but it does not provide the contact area that twisting and soldering provide.

Line topology with intermediate points. The question of the ability to connect multiple camera points using a single fiber optic cable is one of the most frequently asked questions by installers. This option exists, but it must be selected by experienced installers and the appropriate equipment.

The cable that will pass through all points must have a sufficient number of fibers - at least 2 fibers per point. For example, 5 poles will require at least 10 fibers, so you will need to install 12 fiber cable or, for redundancy, 16 or 24 fibers. In any case, excessive redundancy will require much more effort, so it's a good idea not to overdo it.

Some are limited to one twist at all. If it is done well, it provides a contact area no less than crimping or using clamps. However, twisting without soldering cannot be considered absolutely reliable.

One option for running a multi-fiber cable through camera points is to cut it at the pole, separating the two fibers to connect to the transmitter and welding the fibers to the next pole. All this leads us to the following conclusions. More excess fibers - more effort, the installer must weld all the fibers, the installer must weld all the fibers on the first pole. At the last pole, the installer only has to weld the fibers that connect that point. This approach, which requires cutting and splicing all fibers, may seem counterintuitive, but many installers using professional and fast splicers choose this solution because it can be applied to any type of cable, without paying attention to the cable structure, consolidation elements, central pipes, thickness, etc. Additionally, this approach will allow the use of a variety of commercially available junction boxes.

After wire connections they must be well insulated with electrical tape, and the contact points must be placed in the junction box in such a way that they do not contact each other.

When the work is completed, you can check its quality by turning on some energy-intensive device for a while and checking all the junction boxes for heating at the connections.

However, the system installer shown in the example above must conclude that the total number of welds required is 38, of which only 10 are welded to data edge pigtails. The remaining 28 welds are intermediate connections. Thus, this topology virtually eliminates installation due to the high cost and risk of over-mitigating the longest route.

Where and how to install distribution boxes?

The pigtails are connected to adapters. On the other hand, the installer can connect a duplex cable or an optical cable with two pigtails. Any pylon installation must be provided with adequate piping protection, especially for the patch box portion and box containing the active equipment.

If it turns out that some connection is heating up, then the contact area in it is insufficient, and it needs to be redone.

A junction box is an electrical product, inside which cable cores are interconnected. Only with the help of it can you correctly connect the socket, switch or lamp to the power source. It also serves to protect connections from

ingress of dust, moisture, foreign objects and to prevent accidental contact with them.

Boxes come in external (open) and internal (hidden) installation. External ones are designed for connecting cables laid openly: in corrugated cables, metal hoses or plastic cable ducts. To insert the corrugations inside, they are equipped with rubber seals to ensure the required tightness.

IP68 sealing glands for junction box

Boxes used in conjunction with cable ducts do not have clearly marked places for cable entry inside. They are sawed through during installation; in some models, to facilitate this procedure, the body is made thinner in several places.

Boxes for internal installation are walled into the walls. Hidden wiring cables are installed inside. To insert them inside, places with a thinner body wall are provided, usually round in shape. During installation, the housing is broken in the right places, cables are inserted into the box, and the resulting free spaces in the openings between them and the box body are covered with plaster.

All boxes are equipped with removable covers, through which access to the connections is provided. Sometimes inside them there are permanently installed terminal blocks for connecting cable cores.

Choosing a location for installing the box

When installing electrical wiring yourself, you must lay it parallel or perpendicular to the surfaces of the floor and ceiling. The distance from the ceiling to the cables being laid should be 20-30 cm. It is advisable to place boxes feeding a switch or socket above them. This is done so that the box can be easily found. In order not to spoil the design of the premises, they are usually walled up flush with the surface of the walls and then covered with wallpaper. The box that powers the outlet and is located above it, if necessary, will be found faster than one located arbitrarily.

It is possible to install the boxes above suspended or stretch ceilings, but then it is imperative to provide access to them for possible subsequent repairs. After all, contact connections are the weak point of electrical wiring and over time can weaken or even burn out. For repairs, you will need to open the ceiling. This process will lead to unreasonable material costs, and if the installation location of the box is unknown, to very large ones. The same applies to the location of the box hidden in the wall. It should not be covered with a layer of plaster. To open the lid, the maximum that is allowed to be done is to cut off the wallpaper opposite it. You can then stick them in place or use a patch of residue that inevitably appears after pasting.

To access the boxes located above the false ceiling, ventilation hatches are built into its surface.

The location of the outdoor boxes is determined mainly by the design and savings in cable length. To do this, they are also installed opposite switches, sockets and lamps. But even here you should not install them in hard-to-reach places, so as not to complicate your work.

When installing boxes on the street with your own hands, you need to choose products with a degree of protection of at least IP44.

IP44 junction box

But for guaranteed protection against the penetration of atmospheric precipitation, it is better to install them under canopies, roofs, canopies. But the degree of protection of outdoor boxes cannot be reduced, even if rain and snow never fall on them. Humid air penetrating inside leads to the formation of condensation, which impairs the insulation between connections or leads to their corrosion. In the first case, a short circuit is possible, in the second - oxidation and contact failure.

Junction box installation

Installation of junction boxes in walls can be done in different ways, depending on the availability of tools. The optimal and least labor-intensive option is to use a hammer drill attachment called a crown.

It is a ring with pobedite or diamond cutting edges, in the center of which a concrete drill is located. The drill performs the functions of centering the crown, and it itself cuts out a round segment from the wall.

An example of a diamond-coated concrete bit that can be used to drill holes for distribution boxes

After drilling to the required depth, the segment is removed with a hammer and chisel or a mounting blade mounted on a hammer drill.

There are crowns of various diameters to suit any size of junction box

Holes can also be made with the mounting blade itself, especially for rectangular or large boxes. First, you need to drill holes along the edges of the required opening using a concrete drill. The section of wall between the holes is cut out using a spatula and a hammer drill set to the hammer mode, or with a hammer and chisel. Instead of a chisel, you can use a wide flat-head screwdriver with a strong handle. Installation of holes in the walls of a panel house is carried out only with a hammer drill; other methods will not bring results. At the same time, holes for sockets and switches are installed.

Then grooves are laid, cables are laid in them, the ends of which are inserted into boxes so that the ends 10-15 cm long stick out from them. It is better to cut the cables in the boxes in advance. The cables must enter the box itself uncut, more than a centimeter long. If the box is small, the length of the uncut cable in it must be minimized, otherwise the wires will not fit into it later. If, when sealing grooves, there is a possibility of cables shifting along the length, then it is better to cut them in connection boxes, as well as in installation boxes for a socket or switch, after finishing the plastering work.

Installation of cables in the junction box

Once the plaster has hardened, electrical connections can be made. To correctly connect sockets and switches in boxes with your own hands, you need to follow the action plan described below.

Place the cut cable cores to the sides, grouping them according to their purpose. First, it is better to decide on the protective conductors (PE). In cables they are yellow-green. Collect into one bundle the PE conductors going to the lamp housings, to the sockets, from the power source and to the next box. Be careful: the yellow-green wire going to the switch does not belong to this connection. It is important to remember: even if you do not plan to install an outlet with a grounding contact, a three-core cable must go to it, and its PE conductor in the box or panel must be connected. This is done so that in the future it will be possible to replace a regular outlet.
To prevent the bun from falling apart, tie it together with a tie or tape. Connecting the wires can be done right away, but it is better to complete the planning process completely, since you will need to untangle the remaining wires.
Collect all zero working conductors into a bundle. They are blue in color and are assembled from supply and outgoing cables, as well as those supplying the outlet. An exception also applies to cables to switches.
Then we collect together the phase conductors of the incoming and outgoing cable lines, sockets and add to them one conductor from the cables going to the switches. The color of these conductors may be white, black or other, but not yellow-green or blue. From the switch cable we take a conductor of the same color as the phase conductors.
We are putting together a diagram for connecting lamps. To do this, we take blue or yellow-green wires from the switches and connect them to the remaining unassigned phase conductors of the lamps. This case is an exception to the rule, when yellow-green or blue wires can be used to connect a phase, that is, not for their intended purpose.
We connect grouped cores using one of the following methods: welding, soldering, installation of terminals.
We isolate the connections.
We put the wires in the box.