How to arrange a utility block at the dacha. What can you use to build a shed at your dacha cheaply and quickly? DIY shed made of foam blocks: main advantages

In country house design, even outbuildings can be not just a shed, but a real work of art. I bring to your attention interesting ideas for utility sheds, houses for equipment and workshops. All these structures can be made for your dacha with your own hands and decorated to your liking.

Utility units may also have no windows to prevent easy theft of tools if your site is located in a not very quiet place.

The wall of the shed can be decorated with painted plastic plates, screwed with self-tapping screws. The northern wall of my dacha is decorated this way; I painted them myself.

Your workshop may also have a small porch where you can sit and take a break from country affairs and worries.

The classic design of a cute utility unit, decorated with hanging flowers, as well as tub and tray compositions.

The octagonal guest house can be used both as a workshop and as a utility unit.

A utility block combined with a garage. Even a shed can have a beautiful front garden with flower beds.

A stylish guest house made of foam blocks can also serve as your workshop.

Here is another beautiful idea for a utility block from a passionate summer resident. The doors, as I like, are glazed to the floor.

A wonderful idea for a utility room combined with a guest house.

The idea of imitating windows with trays of flowers will liven up the plain walls of a barn.

A pleasant composition of a shed and a pergola with a resting place.

A classic barn in a country house or private yard.

Still, it’s nice that there are people who create beautiful landscape design solutions from ordinary, familiar buildings.

It would seem like a barn, but here is a porch, here are flowers - and it’s a completely different feeling! Some kind of joy...

If you paint the shed in light shades, the area will immediately become more cheerful.

Old instruments can be hung on the walls, decorated in a rural country style.

A neat guest house, covered with shingles.

A beautiful idea for a shed at the dacha - a flower bed and trays of flowers, a path made of stone slabs leading to the building.

A tall barn with a pitched roof and windows for light in the ceiling.

An original utility unit for storing equipment in the country.

The idea of a workshop on a summer cottage - I can imagine that an artist creates his masterpieces here!

Natural roof in Scandinavian style - in Norway you can find turf on old houses. Well, here the designer’s idea was to plant a flowering lawn.

Some ideas are so good that they can even become the basis of a small country house, rather than a utility block.

The photo shows a completely workable option for a summer house on a plot of 6 acres.

A wenge-colored barn is a stylish color solution!

Stone utility block on an English estate - the structure is more than one century old, and there are many more centuries to come!

A simple idea for a shed for storing equipment in a summer cottage.

A beautiful frame shed covered with plywood.

A squat utility block is a design idea for your dacha.

An original solution is to imitate shutters on a window.

You can make such outbuildings with your own hands in a week, thereby giving you a place where you can store your tools. But don't turn the room into a storage room!

The idea of designing an approach to outbuildings at the dacha.

It would also be nice to provide a canopy over the door so that in the rain you can open the door without standing under falling drops of water.

An unusual solution for the entrance group made it possible to create an additional door.

A solid barn built in Western style.

The idea of a utility block is a square-shaped workshop.

The idea of a utility room with an asymmetrical roof.

A utility unit with a beautiful front door on massive hinges.

Unusual utility block with walls made of wood cuts. I have already come across a similar solution several times, I wonder how labor-intensive and reliable it is?

With this, let me say goodbye to you today, see you tomorrow! Follow the updates, share ideas with your friends, get inspired and create unique beauty in your area!

Your summer cottage is your place of comfort. In order to provide this comfort, considerable strength and, of course, a suitable tool will be required. Surely, many of you are working in the garden or in your own garden. It is necessary to maintain areas of different sizes in each season. Therefore, a completely logical question arises: where should we store tools and all kinds of equipment? This shortcoming can be solved by erecting a special building designed for this purpose, namely a barn for a summer residence.

There are a huge number of ways to carry out this construction. Depending on your needs and planned economic costs, the type of terrain and soil, the barn can be assembled from different materials, and can also act as an extension to a residential building or a separate structure. Before construction, decide on the material, since sheds can be made from various materials. Possible implementation options are discussed below.

Plastic shed

A very simple option in terms of organization. Complete installation is completed in a few hours. A plastic garden shed can only be used for storing equipment and tools during a certain seasonal period (it is not suitable for storage during the cold season). Despite all the positive aspects, there are several nuances - the option is quite expensive and not durable enough.

A fairly practical option for a shed due to the fact that the material is durable and, in turn, lightweight, which allows construction to be completed within a short period of time. Inside such a shed, you can screw shelves or mount hooks designed for light weight. In addition, such a barn has an attractive aesthetic appearance, which allows it to fit into almost any country interior. When building your storage facility from WPC, take care of ventilation - proper ventilation will ensure long service life of the structure itself.

Made from wood-polymer composite

Made from blocks or bricks

Building a brick shed at your dacha with your own hands is a significant guarantee of long years of service. This is a powerful option that is not affected by weather and precipitation. Installation, provided you do it yourself, will require you to have certain skills and knowledge regarding the construction of walls and pouring the foundation. Moreover, this is an expensive option. Considering the above, carefully consider the construction option; if you lack the skills, use the services of specialists.

Brick barn

Shed made of foam blocks

A wooden shed for a summer residence is the simplest organization option and the most economical. Does not require installation of a foundation; if desired, it can be sheathed with roofing felt. An uncut board is overlapped onto the support bars, then the roof is mounted, and that’s all. This option is quite inconspicuous and is used in almost every country house.

Shed made of uncut boards

Construction plan

Before you build a barn at your dacha with your own hands, you need to carry out several preliminary operations. To begin, draw a plan of your shed, taking into account all the surrounding buildings and plantings. The location of the shed should be practical, access to it should be as convenient as possible from almost anywhere on the site (this is necessary for cases when you need to quickly remove tools or firewood due to unexpected precipitation).

When choosing a location, try to take into account the presence of sewer pipes, cables (electrical, underground), toilet (outdoor) and build your shed as far as possible from them.

Simple shed plan

When making your plan, take into account:

The size of the shed and its location on the site;
Dimensions of windows and doors, their installation location;
The place where the ventilation will be located;
Drainage system.

Foundation for a frame shed

To make a garden shed with your own hands, the first step is to build its base - the foundation. To select the required type of foundation for a specific shed, you need to decide on the type of the latter. Considering the light weight of the frame barn structure being erected, a columnar foundation is suitable.

The foundation installation process can be divided into several sequential steps:

Columnar foundation

To carry out the lower trim, you need to stock up on wide-section bars (100x100 mm if there are 15 support pillars, and if there are 9, the thickness should be 150x150 mm), as well as boards for rough installation of the floor (approximately 40 mm thick).

Do not forget to pre-treat all wooden parts of the structure with a special antiseptic material with additives for fire resistance. Cover the pillars themselves with roofing felt (preferably a double layer glued with bitumen).

We saw the bars to give them the required length. At the end of the bar, cut off half of its thickness, which is necessary for connection with the next bar.

Sawing the beams at the ends in half to connect to the other end of the beam

Connection-beams

Then, using a drill, we make holes (the diameter of each is 20 mm) and install dowels in them for each connection.

Installation of vertical supports

To organize the racks, bars of different lengths are needed (3 m for the front wall, and 2.2 m for the back wall). First, we try on each wooden support (beam rack) in the place of its future installation. We drill a hole at the end side (0.2 – 0.22 cm). Next, the timber must be placed on the dowel and secured.

Fastening can be done using metal corners screwed with self-tapping screws.

To give greater strength, we carry out additional fixation by installing slats. All elements must be level. In addition, for strength it is also necessary to know the minimum number of vertical posts (for a barn 3x6 m, for example, their number should be six). The total number of beams in this case is exactly 13 (five pieces of different lengths for the front and rear walls and three beams for central installation).

Upper harness

We prepare 2 beams and cut off half the thickness at the ends of each, as described earlier (this fastening method is called “half a tree”). The length of the bars is 6 meters each. We take a ladder or a trestle and, having climbed up, mount the bars and fasten them using corners and screws.

Top trim - cross bars

Floor installation

A fairly simple operation - boards of the required length are screwed to the joists using self-tapping screws (do not forget to make cuts in the right places).

If you are going to store more powerful equipment than standard ones, you may need a concrete floor - you can make it by first organizing a sand cushion and covering it with a layer of waterproofing. Afterwards, the reinforcement is attached and the pouring itself is carried out, followed by leveling.

Treat the concrete after hardening with a special impregnation if you want to avoid it from absorbing various liquids.

Organization of rafters

To make rafters, you need to know their length. To do this, we make the necessary measurements and calculations, taking into account the 20 cm allowance required for the future canopy. Accounting is carried out over the rear wall of the building and over its facade. The total number of rafters is 12 (thickness is 40 mm). It is recommended to make one rafter with high quality, and the rest according to its analogy. In addition to all of the above, it is necessary to make notches to securely fix the roof.

Each of the rafters is fixed in its proper place, followed by driving in a 20-centimeter nail.

Roof decking

For installation, boards of the following dimensions are required - 25x150 mm, length is six meters. We attach boards to the pre-assembled rafters using nails (the distance between them should be 15 cm). Then, between the last rafters and the bars from the top frame, we fasten the block vertically by diagonally drilling screws.

To make protection from the wind, it is enough to simply sheathe parts of the rafters that extend beyond the level. The cladding is made of wooden floors on the bottom and sides. For the last stage of the roofing, lightweight decking materials are selected; a prime example is metal tiles or corrugated sheets.

The installation procedure is as follows: we lay waterproofing on top of the sheathing (usually roofing felt). Afterwards, metal tiles are laid from the right edge moving towards the center. Ondulin should hang 5-6 cm from each edge. Fixation is done using nails driven through the tiles into the boards.

Wall cladding

To begin with, you need to sheathe the walls using OSB. Of course, don’t forget to make doors and windows in the necessary places. OSB is fastened using beams and self-tapping screws. The distance between each of the screwed screws should be about 30 cm, and the distance from the edge of the OSB sheet should be approximately 10 cm. When installing the sheathing, do not forget to leave a gap of 0.3-0.5 cm.

After completely covering the structure, we make an overlap of windproof material, and then we attach thin slats that will form the corresponding cells for laying mineral wool. Mineral wool is necessary for insulating the shed, which will allow you to operate the building at any time of the year. For extra confidence, we lay a moisture-proof layer on top of the mineral wool and cover the barn with boards. If siding is used, preliminary installation of thin slats is required to provide ventilation.

Inside, the walls are finished according to the desire and taste of the owner. This type of shed is quite durable and, if you follow the above instructions, will serve you for a very long time.

Watch a video about building a frame shed.

The foam block shed option is durable, although it may suffer unwanted economic losses. This is due to the high cost of the material, but foam blocks are durable and easy to install.

Construction of a shed from foam blocks

The construction of such a barn can be done with your own hands in several stages:

Prepare the soil for future concrete. Remove grass, debris, cut the soil to half a meter.
Pour the foundation (strip type), let the solution harden (carry out the pouring in sunny weather, and after it, make sure that the concrete does not dry out, to do this, pour water on it at the right time).
Place the roofing felt on the finished foundation (for greater moisture resistance).
Mix the solution for fixing the foam blocks (cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 4).
We lay foam blocks, having previously mounted the corners. During installation, we maintain the level; all horizontal and vertical constructions must be strictly perpendicular. Leave openings for windows and doors in planned locations.
Making a roof. Almost any roofing material is suitable for this; for greater aesthetics, use a gable option for organizing the ceiling.
The last stages are installing doors and windows, and laying the floor.
We finish the walls outside and inside (plaster the outside, and cover the inside with plasterboard).

In order to make this construction, certain experience and knowledge is required. If they are missing, contact construction companies for help.

A barn in a dacha is one of the most important buildings; it is often one of the first to be erected. It can have different purposes. At the first stages of building a dacha, it serves as a shelter from bad weather, and later as a place to store equipment. A do-it-yourself garden shed can be made in various designs and from different materials. However, the simplest and most inexpensive to build is a wooden shed. How to build it and what to cover it with will be discussed in this material.

Optimal shed sizes

A barn in a country house should be easy to build and easy to use. The easiest to build is a wooden shed, for this reason most summer residents prefer this type. The simplicity of the design will ensure its quick construction and minimal investment. A convenient tool shed is one in which everything is at hand, so it is important to plan it correctly.

Fig.1.

The layout of the shed greatly depends on the purpose of its use. Depending on what and how much will be stored in it, the overall dimensions of the shed depend, as well as the presence of shelves and the layout of storage areas.

Fig.3.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

garden tools(rakes, shovels, pitchforks, etc.). To store this tool, a building measuring 1.5 x 1.5 m is sufficient. You can additionally install hooks or a special stand in it for storing pruners, hacksaws, etc.

Fig.6.

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

Garden tools and additional materials(fertilizer, paint, materials for greenhouses and greenhouses, etc.). For these purposes, you will need a utility unit measuring 1.5x2 m. It will have enough space for wide shelves where additional materials will be stored.

Fig.9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

Garden tools and park equipment(lawn mower, trimmer, etc.). To store the entire set of country equipment, you need a shed 1.5 m wide and 2.5 - 3 m long.

Fig. 13.

Fig. 14.

Shed construction diagram

The most universal size of the building: width 1.5 m, length 2.5 - 3 m. It will be quite spacious, you can install several rows of shelves in it and there will be room for a lawn mower and other large tools. Structurally, the utility block will be a rectangular building with a pitched roof.

Fig. 15.

Fig. 16.

Fig. 17.

The easiest way to build a shed is using frame technology. The frame is made of wooden blocks, and the facade can be sheathed with any material, from lining to siding. The roof can also be covered with any material; most often, corrugated sheets are used for these purposes.

Fig. 18.

Fig. 19.

To build a shed, timber with a cross-section of 80x80 mm can be used. In this case, the number of racks indicated in the drawing is sufficient. If the section of the board is smaller, the number of racks must be increased.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

A 40x100 mm board can be used for the ceiling. To lay corrugated sheets, it is additionally necessary to make a sheathing from boards 20–25 mm thick.

Fig.22.

Foundation for a barn

Despite the ease of construction, a foundation for a barn is necessary. It is important to note two points. If you install a building without a foundation on the ground, the foundation boards will rot very quickly, even if they are pre-treated with an antiseptic. If the soil is prone to heaving and the foundation is not buried below the freezing level, then after winter the structure will sag and lose its original appearance.

For a wooden shed made using frame technology, three types of foundations are well suited: block, pile and monolithic slab.

Block foundation- the easiest to assemble. This type of foundation is made of concrete blocks. The blocks are installed on a sand cushion in increments of 1 - 1.5 m around the perimeter. This type of foundation is good for use on soils with a low tendency to heave. Otherwise, after winter, the foundation blocks may settle, which will lead to the curvature of the building.

Fig.23.

Fig.24.

Fig.25.

Pile foundation It is free from the disadvantages of block and can be used on any soil. Any piles can be used. One of the simplest options for piles is metal pipes, which are buried 1.5 m into the ground. For a wooden shed measuring 1.5 x 3 m, 6 - 8 piles are sufficient, depending on the thickness of the beam section at the base.

Fig.26.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

Monolithic slab the most versatile option. It is made from cement-sand mortar laid on a sand bed. For a country shed, the thickness of the slab is 10 cm, and the thickness of the sand cushion is 15-20 cm. To increase the strength of the slab, reinforcement is used. A monolithic slab can be easily made without special equipment in 1 day. The slab has its own advantages; there is no need for flooring. The floor will be the foundation.

Fig.29.

Fig.30.

We build a barn using frame technology

Building a shed using frame technology is quite simple. They start by assembling the floor. To do this, install and fasten together 4 bars. The bars are connected to each other in half a tree. The beams are secured with nails or self-tapping screws. If the building is no more than 1.5 m wide, then no additional crossbars are required. If the width is greater, then additional crossbars must be installed, otherwise the floor will play.

Fig.31.

Next, install the vertical posts. To ensure that the racks stand level, they are leveled and temporarily secured to the base with scraps of boards. The racks are attached to the base with metal corners. The bars on which the rafters will be installed are secured to the installed racks.

Fig.32.

After all the vertical posts are assembled, install the horizontal crossbars. They are necessary to give the structure rigidity. All elements are fastened using structural metal corners with self-tapping screws. At the same stage, rafters are installed, window and door openings are formed.

Fig.33.

This is how the shed frame is assembled. The final stage of construction is the roofing and wall cladding. It is important to consider that if the utility block is sheathed with siding or corrugated sheets, then its walls must first be covered with OSB or plywood.

A barn on a country plot is vital. Otherwise, you will have to store gardening tools and equipment in the house itself. Naturally, this will not contribute to comfortable living. A barn is a simple, lightweight structure. Making it with your own hands is quite possible for most skilled men.

Why do you need a frame shed?

An outbuilding in the form of a barn on a country plot is vital. It is intended for storing gardening and gardening equipment, ranging from a simple shovel or hoe to a walk-behind tractor, watering pump and other expensive equipment. In addition, storing pesticides, fertilizers or a small supply of gasoline in other rooms is simply unsafe.

Thanks to the frame shed, it will be possible to store all garden tools

Advantages of frame construction

The main advantage of a frame structure is its rapid erection and low labor intensity of construction. The benefits are as follows:

Possibility of using second or third grade lumber.
Ease of design.
The ability to quickly move to another place, if provided for by the design of the building. To do this, the support frame is made with a small protrusion and an undercut at an angle of 45 degrees, forming something like runners.
Fast construction.

If we talk about the shortcomings of structures of this kind, they arise only in connection with design or execution errors.

A frame shed is built quickly and easily

Preparation for construction, design and calculations

Preparation for building a shed consists of the following activities:

Determining the location. Since this building is intended for storing items and materials needed for use in the garden, the shed should be placed in an area adjacent to the front garden. To save space, it is better to build it closer to the boundary. The rules state that the shed should not be located closer than one meter to the neighboring plot.
It is better to choose the dimensions of the building in terms of the rational use of materials. So, the optimal size option would be 6x4 meters. In this case, the length corresponds to the dimensions of the standard length of lumber - 6 meters, and the width assumes a two-meter long waste, which can be used for racks on the low (rear) side of the building. For the front part, you can cut the timber in half and take it completely onto the racks.
Thus, the main dimensions of the barn with a pitched roof, the angle of inclination of which will be about 14 degrees, have been determined. This is an ideal building option in terms of rational use of materials.
The distance between the frame posts should be no more than one and a half meters. At the extreme openings, jibs must be installed to counteract wind loads. The size of the timber for them should be the same as the size of the supporting support posts. If a beam of 100x100 millimeters is used, then the jib can be made from a beam of 50x100. A total of 8 such parts will be needed.
The upper frame frame must be made of timber of the same size as the lower one, in our case it is 100x100 mm.
For rafters, you can use 50x150 mm timber, installed vertically in width.
External wall cladding should be made from any waterproof sheet material: plywood, OSB boards, plasterboard. A common material for walls is unedged board. The board must be sanded before installation.

Let's look at the supporting structure. The barn does not need a massive foundation. It can be installed on small concrete blocks, using them in the corners and in the middle of the walls. However, in areas with high wind loads, it is better to use screw anchors. This is a miniature version of a screw pile. It is enough to install them at a distance of two meters from each other, the total need for such parts will be 8 pieces.

If you use the frame diagram, you can make a durable shed with your own hands

Preparing the shed installation site

The site for this building is prepared as follows:

It is necessary to free up space from the fertile layer, which will require removing the soil to a depth of 30 centimeters. Carefully level and compact the surface.
After this, it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer by pouring sand 12–15 centimeters thick into the recess. Fill the rest with medium grade gravel and compact the entire surface.

Thus, the likelihood of stagnant water under the shed is reduced, which will easily drain through the drainage.

Calculation of material requirements

The amount of materials needed to build a shed can be conveniently calculated in tabular form.

Table: example of calculating materials for building a shed

Name	Purpose	Quantity (pcs)	Size(cm)	Standard data (pcs/m3)	Notes
Anchor	Support structure	6
Pine beam 100x100 Total by type of material:	Bottom strap length Bottom trim width Upper harness by lenght Upper strap width Rear stand Rear stand Front pillar Doorway	2 2 2 2 4 1 5 1 11	600 400 600 400 200 200 300 90s 200 600	16,6	From segments From a segment Total requirement 0.7 cubic meters
Beam 100x50 Total by type of material:	Additional sheathing in openings Ukosiny Window openings 60x20 cm	24 8 2 2 11	150 300 160 600	33	Total requirement 0.33 cubic meters
The board is not edged Total by type of material:	External cladding overlapping the rear wall Same for the front wall Same for the side walls	48 48 32 56	200 300 300 600	28	Total requirement 2.0 cubic meters
Beam 50x150 mm	Translations	7	400	22	Remaining 7 pieces x200 mm Total requirement 0.33 cubic meters

In addition to the above, you will need a plastic film for moisture protection. With a width of three meters, it requires 20 linear meters for the outer protective layer and the same amount for the inner one. Depending on price indicators, it can be replaced with roofing felt.

The final roof covering is taken for the simplest of financial reasons. Regular slate or fiberglass, galvanized or painted corrugated sheeting will do. When calculating the need, you need to take into account overhangs with a width of 0.3–0.5 meters.

It is better to make the interior decoration from sheet material. Leftovers from finishing the house will also come in handy.

Thermal insulation in an unheated barn room has the opposite meaning. In hot weather, it is important to maintain the temperature from overheating in the sun. In such a situation, without thermal insulation, it will be very uncomfortable to be in it. It is also important to perform high-quality waterproofing of the walls.

A frame shed can also be built on poles

Tools for building a shed

For such a simple structure, the need for tools is small.

Table: Tools for building a shed

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame shed

To build a shed you need to perform a series of sequential steps:

How to make a foundation

To build a shed you do not need a strong foundation. Often it is simply installed on brick stands. This directly depends on the nature of the soil at the location. If the subsoil layer consists of clay or heavy loam, this can lead to significant soil movements, as a result of which the structure can be warped, damaging the walls and jamming the doors. In such a situation, you need a fairly deep foundation, the supporting part of which will be below the freezing level of the soil.

The following types of support foundations meet these conditions:

Pile-screw. Screw piles are screwed into the ground to the required depth, their upper ends must be aligned horizontally along a stretched cord. Then the heads are installed on them to secure the support beam. In addition to the quality of the soil, this choice can be made when building a barn on a slope.
Columnar. For the device, you need to dig (or drill) holes below the freezing level of the soil. At the bottom, make drainage from sand (12–15 centimeters) and gravel in approximately the same layer, compact the backfill. Reinforcement is made with a frame of steel rods in the amount of 4–6 pieces vertically, fastened with cross members. The reinforcement support must be assembled on the surface and immersed in the pit. Install formwork of the required height on top of the ground. Concrete is poured into the ground. After seven days, the formwork can be removed and work can continue.

It makes no sense to consider other foundation designs. They are heavier and more expensive to construct: strip, grillage and other types of support bases, and they are inappropriate for a structure weighing several hundred kilograms.

Photo gallery: types of lightweight foundations for lightweight buildings

A columnar foundation with a concrete grillage serves as a reliable support Lightweight foundation on piles will withstand loads on unfavorable soils A pile-screw foundation with a wooden grillage for installing a shed does not require excavation work Strip foundation - a lightweight option for installing a light structure

Frame structure

The base for the shed is ready for further installation when the timber frame is installed and secured over the supports. It should represent a regular rectangle, the diagonals of which are equal to each other. The check is carried out by measuring with a long tape measure or cord.

Frame assembly:

Installation of floor joists. A timber measuring 50x150 mm is used. The distance between the logs should be 75 cm. Each of them cuts into the strapping beam to a depth of 50 mm. The corresponding insert is also performed. It needs to be secured with a nail in the middle and two corners to the body of the strapping beam.
Installation of corner posts. Three-meter high racks are installed on the front wall, and two-meter high ones on the rear wall. The distance between them is 1.5 meters. Corner posts are placed vertically with plumb control. They need to be fixed with temporary jibs, check the verticality again and secure them to the harness with two corners and two flat plates each. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
A cord is stretched between the corner posts and the rest are installed at the specified distance along it. Fastening is done with angles and plates.
Installation of the top trim made of 100x100 mm timber. For inclined beams, the supports are cut with the required slope.
Installation of transfers for roofing made of 50x150 mm timber. When connecting parts, a cut-in is made on the support beams. The transfers are fastened with screws or M12 studs with wide washers, two screws per joint.
Jib fastening. They need to be placed from the top of the corner posts to the bottom trim. The material for them is a 50x100 mm block. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
Lathing on the walls. It is made from a 50x100 mm bar. The parts are placed in openings formed by racks at a distance of a meter from each other, parallel to the frames. Fastening is done using flat plates with self-tapping screws.

As an option, you can consider making a shed frame from a profile pipe measuring 60x60x3 mm. The dimensions of the building are the same; the distance from the base of the lower frame to the top should be two meters.

The profile pipe for the frame will ensure long-term operation of the shed

The work is performed in the following order:

Preparation of parts: racks and sheathing. Metal cutting is done with a grinder. In addition to pipe parts, you need to prepare metal corners that are installed at each pipe connection. The size of a triangular part made of steel 3 mm thick is 200x200 mm.
The frame is welded by electric welding with angle control. The face welds are cleaned and the reinforcement is removed.
Before further assembly, the metal frame is treated with a primer and then coated with metal paint.
With a metal base, sheet materials are used for wall cladding: flat slate, fiberglass, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
Moisture protection in this option is necessary. The film is pre-fixed with construction tape.
Translations and logs are made from the same timber as for a wooden frame.

Video: building a metal frame for a barn

Floor and wall cladding

Further work on a wooden or steel frame is carried out almost identically:

Wall covering. It can be made using various sheet materials. For economic reasons, we will opt for unedged boards. Before filling the boards onto the posts and sheathing, it is necessary to install a moisture barrier made of 200 micron thick polyethylene film or roofing felt. You can fasten it with a construction stapler to metal brackets.
Unedged boards are perfect for finishing the walls of a barn.
Cover the back wall with boards in two-meter long sections, that is, three parts each. Fill the first row of boards, on top of which install the second, bridging the gaps. Similarly, sheath the front wall with boards three meters long, as well as the sides of the barn. Trimming the end of the side walls should be done in place after finishing the wall cladding.
Before laying the roof, install a ceiling covering, which is best made from sheet material. First, make an internal sheathing from a board 25 mm thick, then stretch the moisture protection film, and attach the facing material to it with self-tapping screws.
For the ceiling in a barn it is better to use sheet material
The ceiling insulation should be covered with any slab or roll material. A popular solution is to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. Fill it up between transfers and level it out. Install moisture protection on top, then finish the roof.
To insulate the walls of the shed, you can lay one layer of insulation from the inside.
Then sew the support strips along the bottom of the lag plane, and arrange a sheathing of 25 mm thick edged boards on them.
Install moisture protection.
Insulate the floor in the same way as the ceiling.
Lay the floor covering over the joists. First you need to make a subfloor. You can use edged or unedged boards for it. A finishing coating is placed on top of the finished floor. In operating conditions of the barn, it is better to lay the floor with flat slate or cement-bonded particle board.
The subfloor in the barn is made of boards
The last thing to do is cover the walls from the inside with any sheet material.

Calculation of the need for insulating materials

Thermal insulation of the floor is made with expanded clay. It is advisable to use a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. To insulate walls, it is better to take rolled or slab materials, using leftovers from building a house.

How much expanded clay do you need?

The volume of this bulk material is determined by the area of the backfill and the thickness of the layer. The floor area is: 6 x 4 = 24 square meters, the backfill layer taking into account the layer thickness of 0.1 meters will be 24 x 0.1 = 2.4 cubic meters For the ceiling you will need the following amount: 24 x 1.16 = 28 meters, 2, 4 + 2.8 = 5.2 cubic meters. The coefficient of 1.16 takes into account the angle of inclination of the side walls.

How much slab or roll insulation is needed?

The need for this material is determined by the area of the walls:

The front wall has an area of 6 x 2 = 12 square meters.
The total surface of the side walls will be: 4 x 2.5 x 2 = 20 sq. m.
Front wall area: 3 x 8 = 18 sq. m.

Thus, the total area of insulation for covering the walls will be: 12 + 20 + 18 = 50 sq. m.

Photo gallery: finishing work of the barn

Sheathing the walls of a barn with planks is inexpensive and lasts a long time. Glass wool reliably maintains the temperature in the barn Laying OSB boards on the floor is a practical option for a barn Material with low thermal conductivity will protect the shed from overheating in the summer Plywood is an excellent material for finishing the ceiling in a barn

All wooden parts must be treated with fire-resistant impregnation and antiseptic. Otherwise, the barn will not last long.

Video: building a shed with a pitched roof yourself

The apparent simplicity of construction should not have a relaxing effect on the owner of the site. One way or another, you need to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If the movements lead to the structure being skewed, the door may jam or the window frames may break. And also the slightest inaccuracy or error in the choice of materials for construction will lead to the loss of incurred costs.

One of the first buildings erected on a summer cottage is a utility block (household block). A utility block for a dacha is often called a change house or utility room, because... in a dacha setting, it can be used for storing tools, as a summer kitchen, and as a temporary house for an overnight stay. The utility block does not lose its value and after the construction of a permanent house, it can easily be converted, for example, from a temporary house into a shed for storing equipment. There are many ways to construct a utility block and options for its arrangement. In order for the utility block to fully satisfy your requirements, we suggest considering the most popular options for constructing and arranging a utility block for a summer residence.

Ready-made outbuilding structures for a summer residence

The simplest solution to making a utility block for a dacha is to purchase a prefabricated ready-made utility block, which just needs to be delivered to the dacha site and assembled. There are two options for prefabricated utility blocks: plastic and metal.

Plastic utility block for a summer residence

Fig.1.

The plastic utility block consists of ready-made plastic sections. Assembling a plastic utility unit will take no more than 2 - 3 hours. No special tools or fasteners are required for assembly; all elements are included. To install a plastic household block in a dacha, you do not need a foundation. You can install a utility unit of this type anywhere in your summer cottage, and then, if necessary, move it to a new location, spending a minimum of effort and time.

Plastic utility buildings have a floor, ventilation and windows, so it will be clean, dry and bright, without conducting electricity. The material of the utility unit does not rot, does not rust and does not require maintenance. Service life more than 10 years.

Household block for a summer residence made of metal

Fig.2.

The metal utility block consists of a metal frame and is sheathed with corrugated sheets. Sold as a complete set. You can assemble a metal utility block for a summer house with your own hands without welding. Unlike a plastic utility unit, assembly takes a little longer. A metal utility block usually does not have a floor, so you must first prepare the installation site, for example, lay paving slabs or pour a concrete pad.

The metal utility unit is made of galvanized steel with a paint and varnish coating. This guarantees good rust protection and a long service life. The metal utility unit does not require maintenance or periodic painting.

Capital utility block for a summer residence

The main advantage of ready-made utility blocks is the speed of construction, but if the construction of a house is not expected soon, then the utility block for a dacha is subject to much greater requirements than an inventory warehouse. The utility block at the dacha should provide its owner with the opportunity to relax and relieve himself of natural needs, especially if this is the only building on the dacha plot. Therefore, it is advisable to build a capital utility block for the dacha.

A major utility block at the dacha can be made of brick or wood. Of course, a stone utility block is more durable and easy to maintain, but the construction of a permanent stone building takes a lot of effort and time. Therefore, the simplest and fastest option for constructing a utility block for a summer residence is a wooden utility block built using frame technology.

Fig.3.

Frame technology is widely used in the construction of country houses and outbuildings. It is simple and requires a minimum of materials during construction. Therefore, a wooden utility unit can be even cheaper than a ready-made one, while still satisfying all the owner’s needs.

Fig.4.

A utility block for a summer residence, which combines a toilet, shower and a small room, is very popular. Before the construction of a country house, this room can be used as a warehouse, kitchen, shelter from the sun or a place to spend the night. If the utility block is insulated and provided with a heat source (stove or electric heater), then you can spend the night in it from early spring until late autumn. Thus, without exhausting yourself with one-day trips to the country house to care for plantings, building a house, etc. After the country house is built, this room can be converted into a bathhouse, or a warehouse for gardening equipment and tools.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

Drawings and diagrams of the capital utility unit

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Fig. 10.

Construction of a utility block made of wood using frame technology

To build a utility block for a dacha made of wood, you do not need to spend a lot of money on building a foundation. The foundation for the frame utility block is piled or columnar. The pile foundation consists of metal or asbestos-cement pipes buried in the ground to a depth of 1-1.5 m. The pipes are installed around the perimeter of the building in increments of 2 - 3 m. A columnar foundation is made of building blocks or bricks. To do this, make a hole in the ground 20 cm deep. The holes are filled with sand, blocks are laid on the sand and secured with mortar.

Fig. 11.

The next stage is assembling the floor (base) of the utility unit. The floor is made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The timber will be the basis for the walls and the entire floor. Roofing felt is laid on the foundation to protect the wood from moisture, beams are laid on it and connected to form the floor of the tree. Floor logs are attached to the longitudinal beams at intervals of 60 - 100 cm. For logs, use a board 40x100 or 50x100 mm.

Fig. 12.

At this stage, the floor can be insulated if you plan to make a warm utility block, and sewn up with a floorboard or plywood.

Next, vertical supports made of 80x80 or 100x100 mm timber are installed on the finished base of the utility block and the rafters are laid. For rafters, use a 40x120 mm board. A sheathing made of 25x120 mm boards is attached to the rafters. All elements of the utility unit are fastened using self-tapping screws and metal construction angles.