What water to water the radish cold or warm. How to properly water radishes in the open field, greenhouse and on the windowsill? The benefits of vegetable fertilizers are considered
Everyone knows how useful radish is, but not everyone knows that it is easy to grow it not only in open or protected ground, but also on a balcony and even on a windowsill. It appears as a bright spot among early greenery in spring or at the very beginning of summer, and then it can be grown again in autumn, although many summer residents have adapted to grow it even in summer, covering it with dark material to reduce daylight hours. Delicious healthy radish gives a harvest quite quickly, and this is its special charm.
This unpretentious vegetable can survive small frosts, it can germinate at an air temperature of + 4 degrees, though it will take a long time to wait. But if we want to get a quick harvest, and ultra-early radish varieties ripen in open ground in 2.5 or 3 weeks, then it is better to sow when the ground has completely thawed and warmed up to +10 degrees.
It is desirable to prepare the soil in the fall. To do this, the bed after potatoes (and this is the best predecessor), beets, carrots, cucumbers are freed from plant residues, dug up, fertilized, introducing compost or humus. If the soil is acidic, then more lime (dolomite flour, chalk or ash) must be added, since radishes will not grow on acidic soil.
In the spring, as soon as the earth thaws under warm sunlight, it needs to be dug up again, adding mineral fertilizers. Since our early vegetable prefers light soil, clay soil should be mixed with sand or peat. The prepared beds are leveled, the grooves for sowing are marked at a distance of 10 cm from one another. Just before sowing, they can be sprinkled with ash, spilled with hot water.
Seeds are usually sieved through a 2-3 mm sieve to select the largest ones. Small seeds will give small roots. The seed is disinfected by keeping for half an hour in a bright solution of potassium permanganate, and then dried so that the seeds do not stick to hands. Often summer residents still soak them with a growth stimulator, this increases germination.
The sowing itself is called planting by some, since the seeds are laid out one at a time after 5–7 cm. Then they are covered with a thin, no more than 1.5 or 2 cm (for varieties with long root crops) layer of earth and lightly tamped so as to achieve a snug fit of the earth to the seed. You can, of course, sow, as it turns out, and then break through the seedlings. Most gardeners do just that. But the radish, although it prefers loose soil, requires constant loosening, nevertheless does not like to be disturbed - and thinning out frequent shoots worries even those sprouts that remain to grow.
Crops can be covered with black non-woven fabric if it is still cold at night. After the appearance of sprouts, it should be removed during the day, leaving the beds open under the sun, and laid again at night.
The place for the radish is chosen open, sunny, but it is better to cover the beds from strong winds - often this is done with the help of low arcs and non-woven fabric.
What to fertilize
Radish loves nutritious soil, but root crops can accumulate nitrates, so you need to be careful with fertilizers. The main fertilization occurs in autumn. When the soil is dug up, organic matter is added. In the spring, complex mineral fertilizers are added before planting. Often this is limited, but if the plants require top dressing on poor infertile soils, then they are carried out along with watering.
Superphosphate, potassium chloride, a solution of slurry or bird droppings (and they are diluted ten times and twenty times with water) are excellent top dressings during the growth of vegetables. But we must remember that an excess of nitrogen can cause radishes to shoot, and not grow roots.
Often, gardeners do not want to resort to chemicals, then you can water the plants with grass mash, mulch the plantings with compost, and from it, when watering, the nutrients will gradually penetrate into the soil, which means they will be absorbed by the roots of the plants.
How and what to water
In order for vegetables to grow well, root crops form even, juicy, there must be constant soil moisture. Therefore, watering should be regular and sufficient. Usually in open ground, radishes are watered after a couple of days. But hot days or constant winds quickly dry the earth, so it happens, especially in summer, that you have to water it daily, maybe twice in one day.
The first time the earth is moistened immediately after sowing, you need to use a watering can with a frequent sieve divider and warm water. It is very important that the water penetrates to the correct depth. So at first they are watered to a depth of up to 8 cm, and then, when root crops are already formed, to a depth of up to 15 cm. The radish does not have a very developed root system, but in some varieties the main root grows up to 30 cm, it is desirable that he find moisture there to feed the plant.
Uneven moisture, more precisely, periods of dryness of the earth, can lead to unwanted shooting or empty, dry root crops, so this is desirable to avoid.
The last time they are watered a few hours (4–6) before harvesting, then the root crops will be juicy, tasty, and will be able to last longer.
You can simply water with clean water, infusion of herbs, ash or tobacco solution, that is, combine watering, fertilizing and prevention against pests.
Soil loosening
An excess of moisture, as well as its stagnation, can provoke cracking of root crops or diseases, for example, keel, black rot. To prevent this from happening, after watering it is necessary to loosen the soil. First, the soil is fluffed to a depth of 3–5 cm, and as the root grows, the loosening depth is increased to 8 cm, then to 10 cm. The roots should receive air flow, it is not for nothing that this vegetable loves light, loose soils, but this must be done carefully so as not to damage the root and the growing root crop.
In the open space of planting it is very convenient to mulch, then a dense crust does not form on the surface of the earth after rain, moisture is more easily retained in the ground, and loosening is much less common.
Radishes need to be provided with fertile, light, neutral soil, uniform moisture, timely weeding, loosening of the earth, and, if necessary, protection from pests and diseases, then it will delight the gardener with an excellent harvest of tasty and very healthy root crops.
Video "Irrigation of radishes under agrofiber"
See how hand-to-hand irrigation of radishes looks like when potatoes and radishes are planted together under agrofiber.
One of the signs of spring is a juicy red radish. It’s both delicious and a gift to the body that has missed vitamins over the long winter - after all, radishes have a bunch of useful properties (for example, grated radishes applied to the skin of the face noticeably heals it, refreshes it, saturates it with nutrients, gives elasticity and elasticity). You can, of course, buy it, but it’s much more pleasant when juicy, healthy, clean root crops are sent to the kitchen straight from the garden!
Well, now about growing radishes. I understand that chemical preparations are created in order to be used, but what if both grandchildren and great-grandchildren crawl around your garden like turtles, and look that they will pick something and eat it. For more than ten years I have not used any pesticides.
How to sow radishes:
Fertilize the garden bed with well-rotted manure-seed or compost-seed (1 bucket per linear meter). Sprinkle a liter jar of ash on top for 2 running meters. m and carefully dig. Loosen well, removing clods. Along the bed, make streams 10 cm apart along the entire length of the bed and sprinkle mashed coal from the fire along the streams. Pickle radish seeds in a solution of dark purple potassium permanganate, dry, pour into a sieve, powder with chalk or starch so that they are white. Then they are better seen on the ground, because we will not sow the seeds, but lay out the seeds 5 cm apart.
But now the bed has been sown. Now you need to sprinkle the seeds with a layer of earth 1.5-2 cm, press the earth with the back of the chopper and water the entire bed (1 watering can per 1 sq. M), adding an EM preparation to the water. After that, sprinkle the bed along the entire length with a mixture of ash and celandine from cross-fleas (a liter jar of crumpled celandine powder and the same amount of ash). A bed 80 cm wide is ready.
Along the very edge, along the perimeter, we plant 1 lin. m spinach, lettuce, watercress, dill. And now we cover the bed with a light span-bond (thickness 17 or 30 microns). The length of the spunbond should be 1 m longer than the bed, the width should be 3.2 m. We evenly lay out the spunbond on the bed and, retreating 20 cm on each side, we press it along the entire length with boards, we press the boards with bricks, and from the ends the entire remaining spunbond -2m (bubble over the bed) is laid in folds and also pressed well. Developing, the plants themselves will lift the spunbond, straightening it.
Before germination, we water (directly along the spunbond) every other day in the morning: 1 watering can of clean evening water per 1 sq. m. With a radish growth of 5 cm, on a warm morning we remove the film from one side and from the ends and finally break through when the radish grows up to 10 cm. Do not be surprised - this is a Russian size radish variety. For 7 years of crops there was not a single flower and not a single empty radish! And the radish is beautiful, large, up to 10 cm.
How to water radishes
After the appearance of 2 true leaves, you need to water 2 times a day. I got up in the morning, and the first warm-up before breakfast is to pour 6 watering cans from the evening of the prepared water onto a 6-meter bed, and in the evening, at dusk, the second warm-up. Once a week I water with fermented grass (2 liters per bucket of water), | removing the strainer from the watering can.
When ripe full-sized radish fruits appear, choose 4-6 of them for planting on seeds. In a sunny place, deeply loosen a hole with a diameter of 35-40 cm, pour a bucket of fermented grass into it.
At the radish, pinch off the root 2-3 cm, cut off the tops of the leaves and plant the radish without deepening the growth point. Next to stick a stake at least 1 m above the ground. Make a second hole a meter from the first hole, and so on.
Sprinkle the ground around the planted radish with a mixture of ash and celandine and mulch with nettle, burdock, wormwood or other non-flowering grass. Water and fertilize frequently.
Radish stalks are affected every year by aphids, cross-flea beetles, rapeseed beetles, which also lay larvae. I get rid of this evil with garlic infusion: 100 g of strong long-term infusion for 5 liters of water. I spray morning and evening.
Another great way to get rid of it. Take 2 handfuls of onion peel, 2 handfuls of dry leaves and stems of celandine, pour a bucket of boiling water and leave for a day. When the first flower stalks appear, a rapeseed flower beetle appears.
Beware! He pierces young pods with his sting and sucks the juice from the seeds. This is where you start spraying. After spraying, powder with ash.
And in June, tear, dig, dry celandine, and as much as possible, it is suitable for everything. But that is another story. I wish you great harvests!
watermelon radish
Discover an unusual hybrid - watermelon radish. Under the bepo-zepenoy peel of the root crop, a pink or purple pulp is hidden, reminiscent of the color of a watermelon. Outwardly, the hybrid looks like a small turnip, about 8 cm in diameter.
It is interesting that the outer part of the exotic is slightly bitter, and closer to the middle there is a sweetish aftertaste. Useful due to the content of vitamin C and folic acid. In cooking, it is baked, stewed with vegetables, mashed, eaten raw or as part of salads. Cocktails are decorated with slices. Watermelon radish can be purchased at the supermarket. And if you want, you can even grow your own.
On a note
Mid-early varieties of radish
Choose radishes for spring sowing.
Varieties are early (25-30 days), mid-ripening (30-35 days) and late-ripening (35-45 days or more). Early and mid-season are resistant to frost and bolting, they are grown in spring.
Late-ripening are intended for sowing at the end of summer.
Sort "Korund".
The growing season from germination to harvest is 32-36 days.
Root crops from round to oblong shape, bright red, weighing 15-30 g. The flesh is white-pink, dense, crispy, slightly spicy. The variety is resistant to shooting.
Variety "Sax".
Vegetation period from germination to harvest is 25-30 days. Root crops weighing 8-12 g, red, the flesh is white-pink, juicy, dense, sweet-spicy.
A characteristic feature is a small tops compared to the root crop.
The earth in our garden is sand. And if we take into account that in summer we have a heat of up to 40 °, and even the steppe dry winds do not give life, it is easy to imagine how much work is needed to grow at least some kind of crop. But we are not discouraged.
I want to tell you how I grow early harvest of radishes and tomato seedlings. Maybe my advice will be useful to someone.
I sow radishes on the first day of my appearance at the dacha after winter - somewhere in the second half of March. I sow radishes in rows, but not thickly, so as not to break through. Side by side I sow a couple of rows of lettuce, as well as early and cauliflower for seedlings. I water the bed well and cover with plastic wrap. When everything rises, I remove the film and cover the bed with agrofiber. If it is still cold, then even in two layers. Along the edges I press the agrofibre with plastic bottles of water. I water the garden well and wait for the harvest. (If there is no rain, watering is desirable.)
Harvest will be around May 1st. After harvesting, I remove the agrofibre - the radish under it turns out tasty, sweet, juicy, without bitterness and is not affected by pests. In the ground without shelter with agrofibre, such a tasty radish does not work.
Now about seedlings of tomatoes.
My garden is far away, I have to go by minibus and a crowded bus, so transporting seedlings from home is a problem. At home, I grow a minimum of seedlings: peppers, blue, early tomatoes, Iskander F1 zucchini and some seedlings of tall tomatoes. I grow the rest of the seedlings in the garden.
In early April, I build a greenhouse in the garden. The box is made of boards, any size (I have 2.5 × 1.5), but the sides should be such that the box is 5 centimeters above ground level, and down - on the bayonet of a shovel.
I remove the earth from the box.
I pour 2-3 buckets of humus into it, dig it shallowly, level it, sow the seeds in rows, water it well, put low arcs and cover with a film. From time to time I open the film, water the seedlings, fertilize with carbamide, weed if there are weeds, and again cover with a film. When it is warm, I open the film for a day to harden the seedlings. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, I pull the box out of the ground, dry it and put it in the barn, and fill the hole with earth.
I have been growing tomato seedlings this way for 22 years.
In my greenhouse, she is not even afraid of frosts: at the beginning of May 1999, when it was -7 °, the seedlings froze in the unheated greenhouses of the neighbors, but at me - at least something!
L.I. Lashina
Autumn harvest of radishes
In order to have fresh radishes on the table until autumn, several crops are carried out per season. The last one is in the first half of August.
FROZES FOR NO WAY
Radish is a fairly cold-resistant plant, it is not afraid of frosts, including night frosts, and it tolerates a decrease in temperature to minus 2-3″ calmly. The culture prefers neutral or slightly acidic soils. Radishes do not grow well on sour radishes, and a weak plant is more quickly affected by various diseases, including clubroot.
Seeds are sown in an ordinary way, leaving a distance of 15 cm between rows. Radishes are very fond of light, so seedlings must be thinned out. Thickening of plantings can lead to stretching of the plant and its shooting.
WHAT TO BEWARE OF?
It is very important to observe the correct water regime. The plant loves moist soil. If it lacks water, the roots will be rotten, not juicy, with voids. But at the same time, excess moisture is also dangerous, which happens after excessive watering, heavy rains and prolonged rains. Under such conditions, root crops can crack. Excess moisture can also contribute to blackleg radish disease. In such cases, we cover the crops with a film before the rain.
Radishes often go to the arrow. This happens when the daylight hours are more than 13-14 hours. To reduce its duration, plantings are covered with a dark cloth or film for the period from 18 to 6 hours. But in August, when the daylight hours are already short, this is not necessary.
DRIVING THE FLEA
Radishes are planted in areas where potatoes grew last year, because it is considered a good predecessor for radishes. But after crops of the cruciferous family (turnips, cabbages, lettuces), it is better not to sow, since they have the same pests and diseases with radishes.
If it is not possible to protect the planting from pests (very often it is a cruciferous flea), sprinkle ashes on the radish. You can also cover the bed with non-woven fabric or film. Radish loves fertile soils, but does not tolerate fresh organic matter, so fresh organic fertilizers are applied in autumn for digging.
There are many varieties, but we fell in love with the early ripe Champion. It is attractive in that the roots are juicy, crispy, tasty and do not form voids inside. We get the harvest within a month after the emergence of shoots.
Julia KUPINA, Belgorod
To prevent the radish from blooming
Many gardeners complain that their favorite radish - the earliest spring vegetable - does not grow, or all “goes” into the tops, or a harmful flea has eaten everything. Let's look at the reasons for failure.
Radishes are native to China. In Russia, they began to grow it on the personal instructions of Peter I. There are a lot of vitamins (group B. C), trace elements in radish - potassium, iron, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium. It cleanses the body of toxins, breaks down fat.
I start sowing radishes in open ground when it gets a little warmer, from mid-April to mid-May. So that the vegetable is always on the table, I sow the seeds with an interval of 10-20 days. I do not soak the seeds, but I water the beds constantly and abundantly. After sowing, I cover the bed with a film, but do not forget to water the radish a couple of times a day. I remove the film when shoots appear. Then I loosen and continue to water constantly. Constantly moist soil is the key to a tender and juicy root crop. When the seedlings have two leaves, I begin to thin them out. I leave at least 4 cm between plants. Particular attention to the radish in dry weather, if the root crop is not watered at this time, the radish will grow ugly, hard and bitter.
I fight with cruciferous fleas with the help of dry mustard, dusting radishes with it. Ash and tobacco dust save from snails and slugs.
How about radish greens?
Onions, dill, parsley, watercress… Traditional crops for growing on windowsills. But you can make a difference! How do you like radish greens in winter?
I choose zoned early and mid-season varieties (Belarusian selection): Zarya, Smachny, Alba. I also liked the radish of the Russian variety Mokhovsky, which can be grown all year round. Since the vegetable loves potassium, I add a pinch of potassium sulfate to the soil mixture (I buy it in the store) before sowing, in November-December (or after sowing, I dust the rows with wood ash). Then I lightly roll the ground and sow the seeds according to the scheme 5 × 10 cm to a depth of 1 cm.
Radishes are not capricious, but responsive to competent care. It is cold-resistant, so I put the boxes on a cool windowsill. Also, radishes are photophilous, and due to the fact that the winter day is short, after me, get ready for artificial lighting (I use a white fluorescent lamp with a power of 80 W). Closer to spring, the backlight can be stopped. Periodically loosen the soil, water daily, but moderately. When the leaves grow (maybe a week after sowing), I spray them, because. during the heating period, the air in the apartment is dry. I open the window - the radish needs fresh air. Already in March, I take out a box with plants during the day on the balcony to harden, and later, when the temperature is above zero at night, I finally “relocate” here. In case of frost, I cover the container with foil.
One top dressing is enough: I dissolve a little mullein 1:12 in water (do not overdo it!).
Young, sharp-tasting radish leaves are rich in vitamin C, sugars, protein, essential amino acids, and have bactericidal properties. Mustard oils give them a special piquancy. I add leaves to salads, side dishes. The benefits for the body are undeniable!
Growing radishes - experiment with seeds
We do not always have the strength, ability and desire to do everything as it should, and this can apply to any area of life. Gardening is, of course, no exception. Especially if you are a novice summer resident and, moreover, a young mother with a one-year-old child in her arms.
Frankly, it all started with an innocent: “But what if ?!” Or not, it all started with the fact that I really love radishes. I love it so much that in winter I buy the notorious Israeli bags of slightly sprouted, slightly frozen and tasteless fruits just to see thin pink circles in my salad. Then spring comes - and my mother plants a French breakfast in the greenhouse in April, and three weeks later
joy comes - fresh homemade radish. And then summer comes, and radishes run out until next spring. Because, according to the literature, this culture loves a short daylight hours, otherwise everything goes into color. Well, I put up with it for years. But the summer before last, literally starving without radishes, I suddenly thought: “But I’ll take it and grow it in the summer!”
And in the winter I bought several bags of seeds. As a result, my desire to prove to everyone around me that radish actually grows beautifully even during the three brightest months, resulted in a large-scale experiment. My wards had to not only prove their ability to grow under the sun, but also demonstrate all their love of life, despite such adversities as shading, thickening, weeds, slugs and heavy rain. After that, I subjected the leaders to the second stage of testing (or rather, torture): lying in the refrigerator, they had to demonstrate all their ability to maintain their original appearance and taste.
I chose the seeds according to the principle, the more beautiful the picture on the bag, the better. There were no other criteria. Landings were carried out throughout the summer, starting in June and ending in early August. Everything was very simple: the earth was loosened, grooves were made and spilled with water, into which seeds were planted to a depth of about 2 cm. Then this case was sprinkled with ashes and then closed with earth. The sprouts were then shaded with a covering material, over which she then watered.
Testing store-bought radish varieties
The results are as follows:
Amur
This variety has a modest name, but what abilities! Radishes grew well in dense planting conditions, were not actually attacked by slugs, and ripened well. His taste was pleasant, without bitterness. In the refrigerator, he behaved perfectly - plucked in September, Amur lay until the end of November and actually did not lose its presentation. I think that this is a very good variety, because there was not a word on the bag that it has excellent keeping quality.
Cranberries in sugar
The name alone makes me salivate! Fortunately, the variety lives up to its name. Bright pink (almost luminous) roots grew, despite the fact that they were planted in partial shade under a pear, next to spinach (it had to be pulled out on a salad when individual leaves blocked the neighbor's light). These are really Spartan conditions! But Cranberries in sugar grew, turned out to be strong, tasty, without bitterness. Well kept (until the end of November). I will definitely buy this variety in the future - unpretentious, trouble-free, justifying the hopes placed on it.
Red giant
The declared root crops with a “waist” of 10 centimeters did not grow under the conditions I proposed.
It turned out just a little larger than the rest, radish (6 cm - the largest specimens). And productivity is so-so. On the package it was indicated that the variety was intended for winter storage. Frankly, there was nothing special to clean up. He did not live up to my expectations.
red giant
But this variety showed itself in the best possible way. Long "sausages" with mouse tails at the end - one to one. Picking this radish is a pleasure. He withstood all the tests and at the exit demonstrated a mild taste and signature "crunchiness" on the teeth. The only downside is storage. In the refrigerator, the Red Giant became slightly transparent inside, losing its marketable appearance. I didn’t really want to eat it (but also throw away such beauty). In general, an ideal variety for fresh salads. It is impossible to discount it, despite the puncture with storage.
Mix Cheerful okroshka
Different colors, friendly shoots. Radishes sat in the garden and grew longer than the stated period. I didn't see any particular result. Yes, something has grown. Yes, it was not eaten by slugs. But that's all.
Blue frost
In the garden, he showed himself great - despite the heavy rains, not a single root crop cracked. Around the porridge of mud - and he knows himself ripening. But it turned out to be completely unsuitable for storage.
Mix Multitrio
It was stated that it should be planted in the spring. But I really wanted to know if the variety blunders in the summer? Unfortunately yes! Almost nothing has grown. But there’s nothing to scold, the manufacturer on the packaging directly indicated that the hot months are not the best time to plant.
Maybe my experiments will seem inhuman to someone - a good summer resident, she planted a radish anywhere. But you must admit that you will not find a free garden bed in the summer during the day with a fire. As for leaving, in fact, everything was not so launched on my part. As far as possible, she carried out weeding, with a long absence of rain she watered. During the growth period, all radishes received one top dressing with bio-fertilizers and several “powders” with ash. It doesn't make sense to rant any further, in my opinion. This or that variety does not want to grow in these conditions - so be it, let's plant another one that agrees with the proposed rules. After all, there are so many different interesting types of radishes, and for each of them you want to someday at least once find a place in the garden.
Radish 12 months
Usually radishes are grown only in spring and autumn. I set up a conveyor belt, and the radish on the table is not translated all year round.
At the end of March, having selected the earliest varieties (my favorites are 18 days, Red with a white tip, French Breakfast, Duet, and now Odyssey), I bubble the seeds for 12 hours. A day later, they peck, and I sow them partly in a greenhouse, and partly in half-liter pots made from plastic bottles. I keep some of these pots warm (on the kitchen window), and some in the loggia, it's cool there. First of all, shoots appear on a warm window, in the loggia they are 10-12 days behind, and in the greenhouse they will appear at all in 2-3 weeks. In general, when the earliest radish produces 2-3 true leaves, I carefully
I transplant it to an empty place in the same greenhouse. After about a week, a fresh radish appears on the table. The early one departed - the second “shift” is ripening, and after it the third one. Thus, even without a heated greenhouse, I get radishes almost a month earlier than my neighbors.
Autumn radishes (slightly early, but mostly mid-season and late varieties, such as the Red Giant and Ice Icicle) are sown in the ground from July 15 in a couple of lines with an interval of 2 weeks according to the scheme 15 × 5 cm, and for late - 20 × 8 cm Noticed. that it works best in slightly shaded areas. Heavy soil is contraindicated - the radish turns out to be medium-sized.
As they mature, individual root crops are used for food. The rest sit until mid-October, and if the weather allows - until the end of the month. Radish frosts are not terrible. I store it in the cellar, just like carrots, and it lies until March, practically without losing its taste and freshness. Radish root crops of late varieties are large, but at the same time crispy, juicy, tender and not as sharp as early ones, they do not flake for a long time.
Lunar radish
Gardeners usually start planting radishes in open ground in early spring. But at this time I have so many other urgent works on the site that I take up its seeds at the end of July, attaching them to the place of the harvested garlic. I must say that on my site I have long been using the simplest narrow ridges according to the Mitlider method with ennobled soil, oriented in the direction from north to south and well lit by the sun (I do not even allow a slight shadow).
So, after harvesting the garlic, I put the earth in order with the help of a flat cutter: I loosen it to a depth of about 15 cm. Here I will make a small digression and talk about things that, in general, have long been known, but which for some reason most summer residents are still in no hurry to adopt.
I gave up a shovel a long time ago, as digging destroys the structure of the soil. But it is in its upper layer that a whole world of living beings lives (bacteria, fungi, all kinds of insects, beetles and, of course, earthworms), processing all organic matter and thereby increasing the fertility of the earth. Thus, when processing with a flat cutter, I do not violate not only the habitat of these underground inhabitants, but simply leave them in their usual places. I do not turn their house upside down, but I improve it, providing air and moisture. And if the land is good, then the plants grow without problems.
In only one thing, I decided to “correct” Mitlider: I do not apply the fertilizers he proposed, replacing them with the simplest organic matter.
And all for the same reason - let the "livestock" of soil inhabitants increase as much as possible.
But back to the radish.
Having prepared the bed in this way, carefully leveling it with a rake and restoring the sides, I proceed to sowing the seeds. With the same flat cutter, I make two furrows along the ridge with a distance between them of 30 cm, a depth of 1-2 cm and a width of about 3 cm (the width of the tool blade). After that, I sow the seeds, focusing on the dates according to the lunar calendar, when the Moon is in its waning phase in the signs of the zodiac that obey the elements of the Earth (Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn). Just before sowing, I water the furrows well with clean water. I sow the seeds at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other and then cover them with a thin layer of soil mixture consisting of compost soil and sand.
After about 5-6 days, the first shoots appear. So that they get stronger and do not become a victim of voracious birds, I cover the bed with white non-woven material. After another five days, I remove the shelter and mulch the entire soil with grass with a layer of 5 cm, mowed with a lawn mower on the lawn. This thickness of the mulch protects the soil from overheating and hypothermia. But most importantly: under it, even in the hottest and driest weather, there is always a supply of moisture. Atmospheric precipitation and dew contribute to the process of its decay, which provides food for worms and soil microorganisms. And those, in turn, create favorable conditions for building up humus, as I have already said above. So it turns out the ecological cycle in the garden at minimal cost.
Moreover, for the entire growing season of radishes, I do not water the garden, do not weed and do not loosen. Again, saving time and effort.
Well, as for the radish itself, it has a long taproot, which even without me knows where to grow, as well as how and where to get water and food. Of course, if there is a strong heat at the time when the plants are still germinating and their root system is just beginning to form, I do not keep them on dry rations and spend regular watering. But only, I repeat, during this period.
Last year I sowed several new varieties of radishes, but I was completely satisfied with only one - this is Duro. It is early ripening, fruitful, with good taste, does not shoot. At the same time, some root crops turned out to be so large that I didn’t even begin to remove them from the garden, because I like to eat only medium sizes - they are tastier and more tender.
In salads, I love to use young radish tops, which, according to many doctors, are much healthier than the root crops themselves.
Viktor Pavlovich
Juicy radish and replanting
Almost all summer residents write that in order to increase the fertility of the land, they introduce humus, manure and ash. Of course, they are doing everything right, and I do the same myself. But from personal experience, I was convinced that with organic fertilizers you need to be more careful where the radish will grow. Once I didn’t put ashes in the beds in the spring (there wasn’t enough of it then), and my radish grew extremely juicy. I thought it was an accident, but for the purity of the experiment I decided to do the same for the next year (I’m actually a meticulous person and always write down what plantings I brought in and when, so I have a fad here). But the next season, the root crops were just as tasty.
Now I bring in ashes only in the fall, when I prepare the vacated beds for new labor exploits.
And radishes do not like freshly manured soil. But it responds well to a solution of mullein (a bucket of 10 liters of water). I always feed them young sprouts a week and a half after they hatch. If the weather is cold outside, I add 1 tsp to the solution. urea, and the plants are gaining strength right before our eyes as if nothing had happened.
I carry out the second sowing of radishes in August on the beds freed from garlic.
At this time, it is not necessary to water it, because it often rains, and the main pests - cruciferous fleas - no longer annoy young shoots.
For such a planting, the Red Giant variety is best suited. I confess that the harvest is not too generous, but it’s still nice to crunch fresh radishes in the fall. I clean it before frost, and cut off the tops and put them together with root crops in separate boxes, which I put in the basement.
Bogdan Vasilevich Voronezh
Radishes throughout the summer
Radish is a tasty and unpretentious vegetable, which can be harvested throughout the summer. First of all, you should decide on the varieties of radish - it is worth planting both early-ripening and late-ripening ones. Early ripening varieties ripen within 20-25 days after germination. They can be sown again in June-July, but in the second half of summer they develop worse. To have a tasty radish in August, it is better to sow late-ripening varieties.
To remove low-quality seeds, I fill them with salted water for a while and then discard the remaining ones afloat.
I choose a well-lit place for growing radishes, with loose, nutrient-rich soil. I fertilize the ridges with manure in advance, even in the fall, and in the spring I additionally add compost or humus. Then I add wood ash and superphosphate.
When sowing, I bury the seeds on the phalanx of the finger. I sow according to the scheme 8 × 5 cm. On average, seed consumption is 3-4 g per 1 sq. m - it takes me about 20 g per garden. It is often difficult to place one seed in each hole. Yes, and germination is never 100%, so I sow 2-3 seeds together. Such closely planted seedlings cannot form full-fledged root crops, so with good germination, seedlings have to be thinned out.
I carry out weeding as weeds appear and be sure to loosen the top layer of soil so that air and moisture are better supplied to the roots. I water the ridges in the evenings with warm water. On a sunny day, it is impossible to water the plants, since the drops on the tops focus the rays like lenses, and as a result, burns appear on the tender leaves. With insufficient watering, the roots become hard, or voids form in them and they crack.
Elena KALENSKAYA, Korosten
vitamin radish
Radishes are almost 95% water, which means they are a dietary vegetable. Of course, the maximum amount of useful substances (and these are vitamins A, E, C, group B, trace elements: calcium, zinc, copper, etc.) are contained in a fresh root-fruit, which means that it is better to grow it on your own plot so that it is always at hand.
THERE IS NO MUCH VARIETIES!
Today, more than 50 varieties of radishes are known, differing not only in color - from white to purple, but also in the speed of ripening. Early-ripening radish fruits can be pulled out of the garden after 2-3 weeks, but late-ripening - after 40 days or more. In addition, radish varieties differ in the degree of sharpness of taste, root diameter (from 2 to 10 cm) and shape - from round to oval. Which variety to choose is a matter of taste. Growing any of them is quite simple.
SPRING VEGETABLE
Radish gets along well in almost any soil and any climate - it is resistant to cold snaps and does not like excessive sunlight. Therefore, it can be sown already at the end of April, when the main frosts have passed. But prepare the soil for planting better in the fall. To do this, dig up the bed, remove the weeds and add 2 kg of manure, 2 kg of peat and 2 kg of compost for every 1 sq. m of soil. In the spring, before planting, dig the bed again.
If you want to sow radishes as soon as possible, and the soil has not yet warmed up properly, pour hot water over the bed. Soak seeds for 20-30 minutes. in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. In the bed, make shallow grooves at a distance of about 10 cm from each other and carefully distribute the seeds along them. Sprinkle with earth, lightly tamping, and then pour warm water.
Radishes are easy to care for. It needs to be watered every other day, and plentifully, loosen the soil and remove weeds. In hot weather, plantings should be watered daily.
HARVEST FROM THE WINDOWSILL
Radishes are one of those crops that can be grown without problems not only in the garden, but also on the windowsill or on the glazed balcony. Take fertile soil and fill small boxes with it (do not forget to pour expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom as a drainage layer). Make shallow grooves and spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sow radishes, lightly sprinkle the seeds with soil on top. Stretch the film on the box until shoots appear. When they appear, remove the film and put the radish on the brightest window (if there is not enough sun, install artificial lighting).
For the fastest harvest from the windowsill, choose ultra-early radish varieties - Firstborn F1, 18 days old, Ilka, Duro etc.
DOCTOR IN THE GROUND
Radish strengthens the immune system, has an antiviral, antimicrobial, bile and diuretic effect, increases hemoglobin levels and lowers blood sugar and cholesterol, improves the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract, and promotes weight loss.
Compress. Grate 150 g of radish on a fine grater and put the resulting mass in gauze. Apply to the lower back with sciatica in the evening for 15 minutes.
Infusion. For its preparation you will need: 100 g of radish, 40 g of parsley, 1 tsp. honey, 0.3 tsp. lemon juice. Grate radishes, add finely chopped parsley, lemon juice and honey. Mix everything and place in the refrigerator for several hours. Take an infusion of 20 ml 3 times a day before meals to improve the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract.
Juice. Take 500 g of radish and 30 g of honey. Grate the radish on a fine grater and squeeze the juice through cheesecloth. Mix with honey. Drink 1 tbsp. l. 3 times a day for bronchial asthma.
Tincture. Prepare 0.2 l of vodka, 0.2 l of radish juice, 100 ml of onion juice, juice of 1 lemon, 50 g of honey. Mix all the ingredients and let it brew in the refrigerator for a day. Take 1 tsp. 3 times a day to increase immunity, treat inflammatory diseases of the upper respiratory tract, SARS.
Cocktail. Mix 100 ml dry red wine, 50 ml radish juice and 30 ml mineral water. Take 100 ml in the morning and evening for inflammatory diseases of the genitourinary system.
Planting radishes - a little trick: video
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I want to grow a beautiful tasty radish, but it doesn’t work out.
At first, an earthen flea pestered, it seemed to cope with it, then someone gnawed the root crops (see photo). What is this pest?
How to properly water in the open field and in the greenhouse
...So, do not be greedy, do not plant thickly, there is no use for this - only harm. Do not fertilize with nitrogen on cloudy days. What vegetables accumulate the most nitrates? Different cultures have different ability to accumulate nitrates for the future. Here's how you can line them up. Khibiny (Beijing, Chinese) cabbage accumulates the most nitrates, then lettuce, celery leaves, radishes, spinach, beets, parsley leaves, dill, turnips, radishes, green onions, cabbage, horseradish, carrots, parsnips, cauliflower, cucumber, eggplant, garlic, turnip, tomato, pepper, peas. In ripe fruits and berries, there is practically no excess of nitrates. From the book "All the answers to questions about your garden" ...
If you also cover these plantings with lutrasil or put arcs over them and stretch the film, then by May 1 you will already have greenery. To get early strawberries, cover at least one bed with a film on arcs or double thin lutrasil directly over the bushes. When to sow carrots, parsley, radishes, dill in open ground If the compost heap is located in the sun, then at the beginning of the month you can sow early greens (chervil, watercress, cilantro, parsley, lettuce, spinach, dill) and early carrots, as well as radishes. Sowing dates for green crops according to the lunar calendar in 2017 are April 2, 27, 30, for root crops - April 12-13. Throw away the past...
Terms of sowing vegetables and herbs - depending on the flowering of coltsfoot, bird cherry, lilac
...Planting done too early and the soil is still too cold or planting done too late and the temperature in the soil is too high. Too deep landing. Planting depth should be equal to the vertical length of the seed multiplied by 2 for small seeds and 4 for large seeds. Watering the sown seeds before germination. In this case, the hatched seeds under a stream of water can turn over and die, since the sprout already oriented downwards will be directed upwards. Drying of the topsoil, especially quickly - in windy weather, even on a cloudy day. At the same time, the hatched sprouts dry up, and the seeds die, and more often this happens when planting.
Yes I agree with you. I also really like this great salad. Fast, tasty and no problems!
22.03.2013 10:54:38Daikon is a useful thing. Very tasty. My husband and I love it and constantly cook salads from it. And, here's my daughter rejected, she doesn't like it!
22.03.2013 10:53:26Throughout September, you will be able to receive a generous harvest.
Growing Japanese radish - daikon at their summer cottage. A simple daikon salad recipe.
At the same time, the bulb is slightly pressed into the ground and the top is left slightly above the soil level. For radishes, beets, lettuce and greens, any soil that is dug up and fertilized with manure or compost is suitable. The main thing is that the area is adequately lit. Immediately after seed germination, "penetrated" plants should be thinned out (for radishes at a distance of 2 cm, for lettuce and beets at 10-15 cm), then get rid of weeds and water as needed. Carrots are very picky about the soil, long and even root crops grow only on deeply cultivated fertile soils. For carrots, the soil is fertilized with peat and manure. And thinning out this root crop (at a distance of 5-7 cm) can ...
... Carrots are very picky about the soil, long and even root crops grow only on deeply cultivated fertile soils. For carrots, the soil is fertilized with peat and manure. And thinning out this root crop (at a distance of 5-7 cm) is possible only in the evening, so that the appetizing smell does not attract a dangerous carrot fly. Carrots should be watered sparingly, as root crops can crack from abundant watering. But zucchini, cabbage and cucumbers in June should be planted with seedlings, otherwise the harvest may not wait. Seedlings are grown at home, in any containers suitable for this (at the bottom of which there are drainage holes), using special compost, which is sold in stores. By the way, you can make compost yourself: for more...
Did not make it. In general, I want to ask you to show an arch for a climbing rose. she lacks imagination.
29.03.2007 20:29:27Carrots need to be fertilized with manure?
Do cucumbers like shade?
Compost is made from earth, peat and sand???
Berlin yellow lettuce has red-brown leaves????
Apparently, I did not understand something. This is probably a continuation of the story of how Mark Twain edited an agricultural newspaper ...
Girls, hello everyone! I harvested a radish, but it seems to be small in size, but it has all outgrown (All in the threads of the so-called non-chewing (Tell the kettle how to determine that the radish is not overripe, but normal, how often to water with what to fertilize? What to do with it in one word? and you can’t make a salad out of it, anywhere, only grated okroshka, choose it all (((Help ...
Wait for July and plant daikon)
16.06.2016 11:03:11It's already too late. Radishes do not like long daylight hours! If planted in April, it gives a wonderful harvest in May. And then during the summer it can only be grown reducing his daylight hours to 12 hours. Those. from 8 pm to 8 am it must be covered with an opaque (non-woven) material or box. Although in the heat this will not help either: it will go to the arrow, and there will be a wooden root below.
16.06.2016 09:08:36As far as I understood from my own experience, radish does not like shade: it stretches into the stem, peas like to be tied up and rarely planted.
I will experiment with radishes this time - choose another place for him.
But I never had worms in my radish - it just never grew to such a size that worms could crawl there :)
And a lot depends on watering peas. If the year is not very rainy, then there are almost no worms. It is necessary to dry the shoots at the prescribed distance from each other, to loosen the earth. It helps me. Peas have been growing with us all my childhood. but our soil is not suitable for radishes.
We have a lot of clay. Although we brought a lot of land during our entire stay at this dacha, this is not enough for her. The earth should be loose and bright place. perhaps it is necessary to do drainage with sand, so that excess moisture leaves, although the radish probably needs a lot of water .. I will think about what happens - I will write here.
And now you won’t ask your neighbors: (we’ve tuned in, almost everyone has lawns. Few people fence, so mostly flowers and trees.
12.04.2011 15:03:54There is a greenhouse on the purchased plot. The earth inside it is very dry, almost dust. How to moisturize? Water is not absorbed. Another question: when planting cucumbers, tomatoes, can I use cold water for irrigation or do I need to heat it?
it is imperative to heat the water, and even in summer, put a barrel of water in the corner of the greenhouse and water it
04.05.2015 10:24:05Attach a hose with a sprayer to the greenhouse supports and let the water run for a couple of hours. It is advisable to do this a couple of times, the last one a week before planting, no later. Immediately after watering, there will be liquid mud in the greenhouse, after 3-4 days the earth will most likely dry out a little, but remain wet inside - at this moment it is worth digging it up, adding humus or fertilizer, be sure to at least loosen the top layer with a rake.
When planting, seedlings are watered pointwise, in holes or in grooves (if you plant, for example, tomatoes in rows). It is better to heat the water (for this purpose we have a couple of decorative ponds and a barrel for collecting rainwater on the site), but if there is nowhere to heat and defend, it is better to pour cold than not to water at all.
In the future, it is impossible to categorically water the plants in the greenhouse at the height of the day in sunny weather, only in the morning or in the evening. Tomatoes at the time of fruit ripening require regular watering, but at the same time they are very sensitive to high humidity - it is better to water them in grooves for mulch or in holes - we dig inverted plastic bottles with cut bottoms under each bush so that water is absorbed into the ground, but the air remains dry.
I planted radish seeds - seedlings appeared, very close to each other. Need to thin out somehow? And one more thing - and then how to act so that the radish does not go to the tops, but "to the root"? Thank you:)
1. It is necessary to thin out.
2. It goes into the arrow either from high temperature (radish is a cold-loving crop) or from the characteristics of the variety (again, from insufficient tolerance of the variety to high temperature).
3. Insufficient watering leads to bitterness, early lignification and small root crops.
Good luck :)
21.05.2009 08:15:20Girls, never planted vegetables. the father-in-law requested a radish at the dacha. do seeds need to be soaked? Do you germinate it at home or bury it directly in the ground? are there any secrets? thank you in advance.
And experience: soaking, in principle, is not necessary. Seeds germinate quite easily. If you soak, then you need to watch when they swell, if you miss a moment and they hatch - it will be very difficult not to break them when sowing :-)
You can sow in furrows, but since, for example, I always sow deeply (on two phalanges of my index finger), it is problematic to make furrows - the earth immediately crumbles in them. Therefore, I sow (sowed, or rather :-), having made "holes" in the ground with the same index finger, at a distance of about 1.5-2 cm. Then you don't have to thin out. In the same way, you can sow radishes to strawberries, for example (between rows and bushes in rows). Then you don’t have to dig a separate bed, which, after harvesting radishes for 2/3 of the summer, remains empty (if you don’t sow something else there).
Before sowing, it is better to water the soil ahead of time. for example, water in the evening and sow in the morning. Then the earth in the holes will not crumble.
In short, they made holes with the index finger (well, or whichever is more convenient :-), took a bag, stuffed one seed into the hole, covered it with earth and wait. Water regularly.
General rules: water regularly (if you take a break in watering, and then resume it, the radish will crack), water quite abundantly (otherwise it will be bitter), fight cruciferous fleas (sprinkle crops with ashes more often), sow as early as possible (with a long daylight hours, the radish will go into the arrow). Everything seems to be.
Good luck!
The only thing that can annoy is the appearance of harmful insects and diseases. However, the damage from them can be easily negated if their harmful activities are stopped in time.
Watering radishes
Watering. Radish consumes water very actively, due to the intensive growth of leaves and roots. Seeds need plenty of moisture immediately after sowing to swell and germinate. To preserve it, the soil over the crops is rolled or compacted by simply pressing it with the palm of your hand.
This technique displaces air and allows plants to make the most of melt water or irrigation. Shoots appear friendly, aligned.
The soil is kept constantly moist. In dry spring, watering is carried out after 2-3 days. In hot and dry weather, radishes are watered daily (morning or evening), followed by loosening the soil to keep moisture from evaporating.
Occasionally you need to check at what depth the earth retains moisture. The fact is that in radishes, despite the short root crop, the length of active suction roots reaches 30 cm. It is from this soil layer, and not from the top, that the plant consumes nutrients in the form of a solution.
That is why surface watering is useless and even harmful, as it promotes the formation of soil crust and the growth of weeds.
For water to penetrate deep enough, watering should be carried out in 2-3 doses. It is advisable to use a watering can with a fine sieve, watering carefully, without eroding the soil, by sprinkling over the leaves.
The best time for watering is in the evening, after 6 o'clock. It is desirable to use water that has settled, warmed up in the sun. If it is very hot, you can also water it with cold water, straight from the well. Such a refreshing watering of radishes will not hurt.
Top dressing radish
Top dressing. If the soil is fertile, radishes can not be fed. In general, whether plants need additional nutrition or not is easy to determine by their appearance.If the leaves grow rapidly to the detriment of the formation of root crops, which means that there is a clear excess of nitrogen in the soil. About such plants they say that they "fatten". The introduction of phosphorus and potassium in 4-5 days will correct the situation. To do this, dissolve 40-50 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water or stir 1-2 cups of sifted ash.
Pale green tops, stunted roots indicate a lack of nitrogen. To replenish it, it is enough to feed the plants with urea only once (1 teaspoon per bucket of water).
Weeding and loosening radishes
Weeding and loosening. Radish is a fast growing plant, therefore, with well-cultivated soil, weeds do not clog crops too much. Weeding is carried out as needed, 1-2 times, and with the closing of the leaves, annual weeds are not dangerous at all.
Mandatory method of caring for radishes is loosening. It is used even before germination to break up the soil crust and help the sprout break through to the surface. The first time after sowing, the soil is loosened to a shallow depth (2-3 cm), carefully, without touching the tender shoots, then deeper (5-6 cm) to increase air access to the roots.
Very responsive radish on ash application. Usually it is scattered in dry form between rows on moist soil and closed up by loosening.
Desirable loosen the bed after each watering or rain, especially if the soil is loamy. Simultaneously with loosening, small seedlings of weeds (wood louse, quinoa, chamomile, etc.) are destroyed. With the closing of the rows, loosening is no longer necessary. By this time, it is time to pull the roots out of the ground.
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clog crops. Weeding is carried out as needed, 1-2 times, and with the closing of the leaves, annual weeds are not dangerous at all.
The best time to water is in the evening, after 6 o'clock. It is desirable to use water that has settled, warmed up in the sun. If
The soil is kept constantly moist. In dry spring, watering is carried out after 2-3 days. In hot and dry
- As you can see, growing this tasty and healthy root crop does not present any difficulties. By observing the planting dates and the rules for caring for this crop, you will provide your diet with an excellent harvest of radishes grown by yourself.
- Radish is a very accommodating plant. It can be planted next to carrots and onions, while they ripen, the radish will be eaten all over.
- For good germination, the seeds must be sown in wet ground.
- "Ice icicle";
- Radish is valued for its healing properties: it removes toxins from the body well and breaks down fats, which is important for people who are overweight. Growing radishes and subsequent care is a simple process, even a novice gardener can handle it.
Mandatory method of caring for radishes is loosening. It is used even before germination to destroy the soil
Very hot, you can also water with cold water, straight from the well. Such a refreshing watering of radishes will not hurt.
Weather radishes are watered daily (morning or evening) followed by loosening the soil to keep moisture from evaporating.
radish care is easy
Sowing, care and cultivation of radishes
After germination, we can thin out the rows if necessary and continue growing. At this stage, the temperature inside should be maintained already at +9°C in winter, and up to +16+17°C in early spring. It is also necessary to monitor the temperature of the soil in which the radish is planted - + 11 + 14 ° С.
The technology of growing radishes in a greenhouse involves careful selection of high-quality and healthy seeds. These are the ones who will be able to survive indoors and show the expected result.
Absolutely everyone can grow radishes in the country, in a greenhouse or in the open field. Growing radishes is interesting to all summer residents, without exception, because the culture has many positive aspects, and most importantly, a unique fresh taste. Today we will look at growing radishes in a greenhouse and choose the best varieties for this.
You can grow radishes on your loggia. The main thing is that it is not damp and cool. The method of growing radishes on a balcony is similar to the usual one: only for round varieties you will need boxes no more than 15 cm deep, and for elongated ones no less than 20 cm.
After the first true leaf appears, the seedlings must be thinned out, leaving a distance of no more than 3 cm between them. "French breakfast" and others.
crust and help the sprout break through to the surface. The first time after sowing, the soil is loosened to a shallow depth (2-3 cm), carefully, without touching the tender shoots, then deeper (5-6 cm) to increase air access to the roots.
Growing and caring for radishes
Feeding. If the soil is fertile, radishes can not be fed. In general, whether or not plants need additional nutrition is easy to determine by their appearance.
From time to time
- watering, weeding, you can not even feed, if in
Correct lighting for radishes in a winter greenhouse is also very important. It is necessary to organize a short daylight hours, but an increased intensity of lighting will be a prerequisite. If the lighting is longer and less bright, the radish may begin to shoot, which will have a very negative effect on the crop.
Radishes: soil preparation and cultivation
Radish is a cold-resistant crop, but growing it in winter in open ground, of course, will not work. Therefore, we decided to sow radish seeds in a greenhouse and grow crops in a special facility, using the recommendations of summer residents who have been growing radishes in winter for several years.
- Care for freshly picked radishes is as follows: you need to store it in the refrigerator with a temperature of 0 ° C. For longer storage, the vegetable is placed with the leaves down in a cup of cold water and sprinkled with water from time to time.
- This is a common mistake of novice gardeners: untimely thinning prevents them from getting an excellent harvest.
This wonderful vegetable contains a lot of potassium salts, iron, phosphorus, magnesium. They are quickly absorbed by the body.
Very responsive radish on
VseoTeplicah.ru
If the leaves develop rapidly
Features of planting radishes
You need to check at what depth the earth retains moisture
The soil was fertilized.
radish care
Radishes should be sown according to the scheme, where there will be a distance of 8 cm between the rows, and about 3-4 cm in the row between planting. Planting takes place in rows or in the form of a bed that is convenient for you, but to get a good harvest, you must follow the scheme.
According to professionals, this is a fairly simple undertaking, especially if the greenhouse is in working order and it does not need to be prepared specifically for radishes. The main thing is that there should be a protected and sealed building with a light transmission cover, heating, lighting and ventilation inside, high-quality soil and the possibility of irrigation.
womanadvice.ru
Growing radishes in a greenhouse: variety selection, planting and care
http://youtu.be/qAQa6iMZV4c
But experienced people advise that it is better to sow one seed at a time first. Because thinning can touch the root of the remaining shoot, and it will grow worse or go into the arrow. In this case, it is necessary to sow radishes so that the distance between rows is 5 by 5 cm.
Their root crops weigh from 7 to 20 g, and the shape is varied: from round to elongated (similar to carrots). The color varies from white and pink to purple.
And among the first spring vitamins that we get from radishes are ascorbic acid, enzymes, organic acids and B vitamins.
Choosing a radish variety for planting in a greenhouse
adding ash
To the detriment of the formation of root crops, it means that there is a clear excess of nitrogen in the soil. About such
. The fact is that radishes, despite
The only thing that can annoy is the appearance of harmful insects and disease. However, the damage from them can be easily negated if their harmful activities are stopped in time.
Sowing radishes in a greenhouse
The benefits of this vegetable are great. There is no need to be afraid that nothing will grow, the main thing is to water it correctly, and everything will work out.
The technology of growing radish and its subsequent care is very simple - it is loosening the soil, weeding and timely watering. This plant is very fond of water, it must be watered in the morning and evening (especially on hot, dry days). With such care, the vegetable turns out juicy and dense. And if the plant received little water, then its root crop will be rough and empty inside, and outside it will shoot arrows.
Growing radishes begins in late February-early March, if the vegetable is sown in greenhouses. If under the film, then they begin sowing in the last decade of March. Moreover, this technology of growing radish allows you to get a crop two weeks earlier. If cultivation takes place in open space, then they begin to sow in mid-April, when the first work can already be carried out in the garden.
The radish and its cultivation opens the season of spring vegetables. She is the most precocious among her relatives from the root family. But there are so many varieties of radish, they differ both in cultivation methods and in ripening terms. And this means that this vegetable can be eaten all year round.
. Usually it is scattered in dry form between rows on moist soil and sealed.
plants say they "fatten". The introduction of phosphorus and potassium in 4-5 days will correct the situation. To do this, dissolve 40-50 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water or stir 1-2 cups of sifted ash.
Conditions for growing radishes in a greenhouse
A short root crop, the length of active suction roots reaches 30 cm. It is from this soil layer, and not from the top, that the plant consumes nutrients in the form of a solution.
Watering.
You can plant radishes a little more often, as we are used to, because not all seeds will sprout. And when this happens, thin out the rows, leaving a distance of 3 cm between individual plants for the most correct further development of the culture.
Not all radish varieties respond equally well to planting in winter, although almost any of them can be created the conditions necessary for growth and development. We decided to choose not only the most popular varieties of radishes, but also the most resistant ones, which are most suitable for greenhouse soil.
After a cold winter, every person's body needs to replenish its vitamin reserves, and the first spring vegetables are what you need! Juicy, with a spicy bitter taste, radish is one of the first to appear on our tables. What are the features of growing this crop in greenhouses and on open ground? What needs to be done to get a good harvest of radishes? This is what we will tell lovers of this root crop in our article.
Watering radishes
When it is cool outside, the vegetable is watered infrequently and moderately. With the onset of heat, water the plant more often and more abundantly. In hot weather, the weekly watering rate is 10 liters per square meter.
This plant can withstand the cold, but loves a lot of light. Seeds can germinate even at 2-3°C, and seedlings are not affected by frosts down to -3°C. And those plants that have already grown up are not afraid of a five-degree frost. And yet the best temperature for radishes is 16-18°C. 
The most precocious variety is "European". After 20-25 days, you can serve it on the table. The most famous can be called varieties such as:
Loosening.
Pale green tops, stunted root crops indicate a lack of nitrogen.
This is why surface watering is useless and even harmful, as it promotes soil crust formation and growth.
How to plant radishes in a greenhouse (video)
Radish consumes water very actively
DachaDecor.ru
Growing radishes, care, feeding, weeding and loosening
For heated greenhouses, planting dates are oriented to January. If the greenhouse is not winter, then the crop should be sown only from mid-March.
The timing of sowing radish is not limited to a specific period. Growing this crop is possible from April to September. However, this plant has one feature - it is cold-resistant and perfectly prepares the soil for planting other crops. If you plan to grow cabbage, potatoes or eggplant in a particular area of the garden in the future, then radish is an excellent predecessor. Planting radishes in the spring allows you to harvest this crop before other crops are due. Even if there is enough space in the garden, you can sow seeds at intervals of 20 days, and there will always be a fresh portion of these root crops on the table. Planting time for radishes in the spring is from late March to early April, not earlier. Even if radish is planted by sowing seeds in a greenhouse, at an earlier time this light-loving plant will not have enough sunlight for full growth. As for the soil, it should not be waterlogged. Otherwise, small root crops will crack, and the aerial green part will grow lush and dense.
http://youtu.be/d9FNmqnjHgk
Watering radishes
You can grow radishes where you will plant tomatoes later, as agricultural technology advises. It can be sown until the third decade of May, every week. Thus, you can harvest a good harvest and at the same time prepare the ground for planting the next crop. "Dawn";Desirable
To replenish it, it is enough to feed the plants with urea only once (1 teaspoon per bucket of water).
weeds.
, due to the intensive growth of leaves and roots. Immediately after sowing
As you understand, a juicy and pleasant radish is obtained only in the case of systematic and timely watering, when the amount of moisture is constantly maintained in the soil. If it happens that they save on water or there are serious failures with watering, the root crops can become bitter in taste and quite hard.
So, these are Saxa, Rova, Verano, Warta, Silesia, Robino, Helro and others. Before planting radishes, the soil should be fertilized with humus, peat, top dressing with a high content of potassium sulfate, and ash. The seed should be carefully inspected, as only large seeds are considered suitable. If you sow small ones, then the plant will begin to shoot before the root crop grows. Sowing radishes in open ground and in a greenhouse is carried out quite densely, and after the emergence of seedlings, they are thinned out. If the cotyledon leaves have already grown, then the seedlings can be transplanted to another place. The distance between them should not be less than 5 centimeters so that the green ground parts do not create a shadow for each other, provoking early shooting.Irrigation is important for radishes during the period when it is just emerging: the first leaves appear, the root crop is just beginning to form. On dry days, you can not keep the plant without water for more than three hours, otherwise the vegetable will not develop properly, and it will be hard and bitter. But you don't have to go overboard with water. After such a plentiful "leaving" the radish cracks.
Experts recommend sowing seeds to a depth of no more than two centimeters. If you make it big, then the root crop may not tie. The distance between rows should be no more than 10 cm. If you follow this advice, then about 15 g of seeds, about one and a half to two thousand pieces, can be planted per square meter.
"Deca";
loosen the bed
Weeding and loosening. For water to penetrate deep enough
Seeds need a lot of moisture to swell and germinate. To preserve it, the soil over the crops is rolled or compacted by simply pressing it with the palm of your hand. Studying these conditions, you can lead yourself to the idea that radishes are simply created for growing in winter greenhouses, as the requirements of the plants correspond to our minimum investment and work.
Top dressing radish
According to the observations of professionals, it is these radish varieties that have the best indicators in terms of the number and quality of seedlings, ripening speed and crop quality.We figured out how to plant radishes correctly. Now you should provide the seedlings with proper care. It consists in timely thinning and daily watering. On hot summer days, it is also necessary to sprinkle the leaves of the radish. When the soil around the bushes dries up, it is gently loosened, and the plants themselves are spudded. This culture does not need fertilizing. Already 30-35 days after planting, you can harvest the first crop of early ripe spring varieties. The most popular are Soffit, Zarya, Mark, Early Red, Variant, Korund, Vera and Rhodes. After harvesting, you can immediately sow a new batch of seeds. And there will be juicy radishes on your table all summer long! Cultivation should go through all the stages, before sowing, check everything again and properly, following all the recommendations, prepare the soil. Radish is a non-capricious vegetable; it is not particularly demanding on the soil. But it loves to grow on rich organic matter, loose soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. For growing radishes, cold, heavy soils with impurities of clay and sand are not recommended. And if there is no way out, then before planting such land needs to be fertilized: add humus (for 10 m² - 30 kg).
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