How to fix speaker. Car speaker repair. Here is the removed cap.

You can often meet requests for help in repairing and rewinding the coils of burnt out speakers, articles on this topic have been on the Internet for a long time, but we decided to make our own. So, I got my hands on a burned-out Pioneer subwoofer speaker from a TS-WX303 subwoofer, the nominal power of the speaker is about 250 watts. It seems to me that the former owner went too far with power, as a result of which our speaker burned out.

When the diffuser was pressed, a clearly audible rattle was emitted, this is the coil rubbing against the magnetic core, possibly falling apart, after disassembling the speaker everything will become clear. The most important difficulty is to disassemble the speaker, because it is very important not to damage the speaker suspension, it’s good when the suspensions are rubber, they peel off and tear off with a bang, in the case of foam rubber and their analogues, everything is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

So, a photo of my patient:

Personally, I disassemble speakers in one of two ways, with a thin blade, or by soaking in solvent. In the second case, you need to work strictly on the street or in a well-ventilated area, but not at home and not in the entrance. In advance, you need to prepare all the tools necessary for repair, you can use primary tools for dismantling the suspension and centering washer. The centering washer is located under the diffuser, usually yellow in thick pressed mesh fabric.

For soaking, you can use a syringe, draw the solvent into the syringe and gently spray the extreme parts of the suspension, in the place where it is glued to the "basket". It usually takes a long time to soak, in 5 minutes you will not separate the suspension from the speaker housing. The centering washer is soaked in exactly the same way.

This is not the first time I rewind the speakers, and the dismantling operation for this speaker took me about 5-7 minutes. After soaking, we solder the conductive wires from the terminals and remove the diffuser with the coil from the frame, in principle it is possible and necessary to solder the wires before soaking, it will be more convenient ... We look at the photo of the coil of my burnt speaker:

The photo clearly shows overheated and charred turns of copper wire, this coil will have to be unwound completely and rewound again. some unscrupulous repairmen practice the following type of repair: they unwind part of the burnt wire and connect the break points together by soldering. Naturally, such a "homeless repair" will not last long, in addition, after unwinding part of the turns from the coil, it will significantly reduce the overall resistance of the speaker, which will certainly affect the power.

In general, if the coil is more or less alive, you can leave it, after soaking the coil with varnish, it will last - but not for long. This option is applicable for beginners, for those who are afraid to rewind the coil due to certain circumstances (for example, there is no necessary wire for rewinding).

The speaker coil should ideally be wound with BF-2 glue. Finding it is not easy, but it is the best option. The suspension is glued with rubber glue 88, it is usually sold in small jars in hardware stores, carpets are glued to subwoofers with this glue:

Finding the right wire is also a problem, good wire donors are coils of contactors (starters), which are sold separately in electrical equipment stores, are not expensive, I use just such a wire. Also, the necessary wire can be found in the degaussing loop of kinescopes (CRT), a sample of my wire for winding is below in the photo:

I removed this wire and rewound just from the starter, the wire diameter is approximately 0.35, by the way, it is not recommended to wind it with a too thin wire. speaker power drops sharply. If you take the wire thinner than it was, then you will have to make a little more turns than it was, otherwise the speaker resistance will be less.

You need to wind the wire turn to turn, winding the speaker is a delicate and time-consuming matter, the main thing is not to abandon everything halfway ... I wound it with a wire of about the same cross section, in total I got 4 layers, each layer was covered with BF-2 glue and allowed to dry about two hours. It is not so difficult to determine the required length of a new wire with sufficient accuracy, you need to calculate the length of one turn (knowing its radius), multiply by the number of turns in the layer and by the number of layers. For my speaker, it took about 20 meters of enameled wire. The wire diameter is determined using a micrometer or caliper. For winding, it is better to use a specialized machine, which greatly simplifies the entire winding process, if there is no such machine, then you will have to wind the coil manually.

After the glue has dried, we begin to assemble the speaker. I note that it is highly not recommended to glue the centering washer and the suspension at the same time, because with a probability of 99% after the glue dries, your speaker will grunt. First you need to glue either a centering washer or a suspension (I glue the first one). That is, with a brush we coat the edges of the washer and the places of gluing on the speaker case, let it dry a little and carefully put the diffuser on the case so that the coil does not rub against the magnetic core.

From the first time it will be difficult, so you can coat the washer with glue not entirely, but only at several points, in case of successful centering, you can glue it.Next, we glue the suspension, when connecting the suspension to the speaker basket, it is necessary to center the suspension itself in parallel, so that there are no rustles and rattles during the course of the diffuser. After that, we solder the conductive copper wires (conductors) coming from the coil to the speaker terminals and let the speaker dry for 24 hours.

There is another, more accurate way to center the coil, but for this you have to remove the cap from the diffuser. After removing the cap, we put the diffuser with the coil into the basket, then we take A4 paper, cut it along the wide side into two halves and fold it into a tube of about the same diameter as the core of our speaker and gently insert it into the slot between the core and the coil, then you can safely glue the centering washer with a suspension. After the glue dries, pull out the paper and glue the cap back.

Most of the dynamic heads are not intended for their disassembly and are, as it were, disposable (non-separable, of little use for repair) components of acoustic systems. In practice, it is often possible to successfully disassemble a speaker of a typical design and assemble it again. The main task is to soften the glue with which the many components of the speaker are held together, and to separate them from each other without injury and deformation.

If you have questions about rewinding speakers, ask them at, we will try to help!

Acoustic systems are divided into active, passive, the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current. Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system approaches the functionality of the player. Consider what to do when the speakers do not work. Speakers include a myriad of sound reproduction devices, readers are interested in how they repair speaker systems with their own hands. You will need special glue. When the USSR was BF 4, AK 20. Accordingly (the basis of the glue), solvents are selected. It will be necessary, disassembling, dismantling the connection, repairing the speaker system yourself.

The device of a typical acoustic speaker

The movable part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.

Acoustic speaker classification

To repair speaker systems with your own hands, doubting how the device works, it is supposed to use the principle - do no harm. Regardless of the size, the speaker of the acoustic system is formed by electrical, mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet, a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of the speakers of acoustic systems.

• Electrodynamic playback devices form three classes, the concept of the presence of a magnet, a moving membrane combines:

1. The coil ones are built according to the principle known to the owners (repairers) of gas water heaters. The magnetic ring, when the throttle voltage is applied, causes the membrane to move, according to the law of the supplied audio frequency current.
2. In tape, the role of a variable magnet is performed by a narrow corrugation. No coil, of course, inside. Speaker applications require matching transformers. A feature that identifies the type of speaker in the acoustic system.
3. Isodynamic loudspeakers include a square, round helix moving parallel to the membrane in the field of a permanent magnet.

• Electrostatic playback devices have no moving parts. The membrane oscillates without making translational movements. The speakers perfectly reproduce high frequencies due to their low inertia.

• Piezoceramic speakers exploit the effect of converting electricity into vibrations of a quartz crystal. It is clear that you cannot achieve high power of the device; the speaker is suitable for the purpose of reproducing high frequencies of acoustic systems. The main advantage of the technical solution is low energy consumption.
• Ionic dynamics are practically rare, the theory was developed in the 50s. The principle of operation is based on the modulation of gas ions by sound vibrations. You need to get an electric arc. Ideas are being put forward to use a flame formed by positive, negative particles (air ions).

Readers are familiar with naturally occurring sound reproduction devices. Not always in the dynamics of the speaker system there is an inductor. Therefore, before repair, in the process, the master performs the correct classification of devices, properly carrying out the necessary operations.

The device of the speakers of the acoustic system

Partially touched the device. Let us consider electrodynamic models in more detail. The diffuser forms the support of the cap. Represented by the likeness of a wide horn, on which the coil is glued from the back. Flexible copper wires carrying electric current fit directly to the membrane cap, penetrating the diffuser from the inside. Soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker. The coil is light, it is required to provide a relatively small inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork for the first octave lies at a frequency of 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the indicated speed, the moving part of the acoustics speaker must be light.

The magnet is fixed on the frame. Usually circular. An inductor runs in both directions in the hole, moving the cap-membrane assembly. Connecting wires make constant vibrations. A centering washer is used to position the moving part along the vertical, horizontal axis. Perforated piece of elastic material, centering the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. Repair is ridiculously simple:

Since the membrane and cap do not break, the point is to check the electrical installation, the soldering points of the wires, the integrity of the coil.

The inductance is wound in the image and likeness of the old one. Each layer of turns is smeared with BF 4 glue. Poor-quality soldering is performed again. Select the appropriate inductance winding technique. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks, standing on a long board opposite each other. Both are connected by axles. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a caliper.

Winding is carried out relatively quickly while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly one to the other, professing the principle of the shuttle. It is important to maintain the correct number of revolutions, properly position the conclusions.

Often you have to disassemble the speaker of the speaker system for repair. Stock up on solvent. Glued joints are wetted, waiting for a fixed time. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. It is done regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.

Speaker range

Loudspeakers are different types of acoustic systems, each has a limited range of reproducible frequencies. Each works as a kind of mechanical filter. However, it happens that you need to shift the range ... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. A 5–10% solution of CAPON, cellulose in acetone are used. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle. Avoid misalignment of the moving part of the loudspeaker of the acoustic system. By sequentially performing operations, we will increase the resonance frequencies by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.

To lower the range, stick weights on the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. It should be more precise to maintain the symmetry of the arrangement of parts. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range narrows from the high frequencies. However, in the resonance region, the loudspeaker will perform well.

You can expand the range in both directions (if there is no cap). In the center, from the front, a truncated cone is glued above the inductor of the speaker speaker. The mass is made as small as possible. Thin, thick paper impregnated with TsAPON varnish will do. The upper platform is equal to the coil, the height is half the diffuser, the taper is 70 degrees. Due to the increase in the mass of the moving part, the resonant frequency drops, but the upper edge of the range rises, thanks to the rigid core, harder than the cone. The result is an expansion of the spectrum of reproduced sounds in both directions. The total increase will be one and a half to two octaves, the game is worth the candle. Take care to set up the electronic part correctly: if there are passive filters on capacitors and resistors, they will limit (cut off) the possibilities of mechanics.

Masters increase the sound pressure at the resonant frequency for an unshielded magnetic system. Try to find this or a similar installed ring. Then glue the second magnet on the reverse side of the standing one, the interaction of the fields will increase, therefore, the sound strength will increase.

The device of the speaker system is simple, which can break, they said. We hope the renovation goes off without a hitch.

The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repairs virtually unnecessary, but if it's difficult to get a new speaker to replace a broken or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to repair the damaged loudspeaker yourself. I got several coaxial-type speakers from various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below, material will be presented only on the restoration of “littered” coaxial-type car speakers for later use in the design or installation in multi-band stationary speaker systems. Before starting work, we will diagnostics speaker state.

Speaker health diagnostics

1. Check for "litteriness". Coaxial-type speakers are not completely protected from foreign objects entering the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars covered with rust or cars that have undergone body repairs. Checking is simple - gently with your fingers move diffuser inside the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly audible: rustles, crackles, rattles, this means that metal debris may have got into the magnetic gap.

2. We take a tester and in the ohmmeter mode we check the resistance of the coil. If there is resistance, then this is our case. If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check for an open thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.

We disassemble and clean the dynamic head with our own hands

1. Unsolder the flexible leads of the coil from the contact lobes for connecting the speaker and the contact lobes of the coaxial speaker.

2. Remove the coaxial speakers. Repair of the speaker system is not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly. The column with reinforced tweeters was removed by drilling out an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.

3. The speaker repair forums provide methods for dismantling the cone and centering washer. I also went down this path. We carry out work in the open air in the absence of sources of open fire! Having spent 100 ml of acetone, it was not possible to peel off the diffuser and the washer. The solvent quickly evaporated without softening the adhesive line. In order to save time and solvent, a cotton cord was placed on the gluing site and wetted with acetone; if necessary, wetting continued as evaporation continued until the glue softened. After softening with a thin screwdriver, pry off the edge of the centering washer and lift it above the gluing point. With a diffuser corrugation made of thin rubber, it is necessary to act more carefully and delicately so as not to damage the rubber.

4. Remove the diffuser. Damage to the insulation of the speaker coil is noticeable from debris that has got inside the magnetic system. It is useful under a magnifying glass to look at the degree of damage for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the diameter of the coil wire), if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. Using a damp cloth, I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and out from dirt. Cleaning must be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.

Coil damage

5. The gap of the magnetic system is a sad sight. Strong magnet holds small metal debris and dust firmly. I tried to clean it mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow me to successfully remove debris. I decided to use a strong jet of air from an air compressor - clearance failed! I had to use another tool - to use a high-pressure water jet from a car wash. The result is that I am all wet, but the gap is 100% cleared, and at the same time the entire frame of the frame shines like new. I tried to do it carefully, because the pressure of the water jet is very high and I admit, with special zeal, you can destroy the adhesive of the magnet of the speaker system. To prevent rust, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it’s a good idea to seal the gap with tape to protect against accidental metal debris.

Assembling the speaker

1. After cleaning and drying the components of the speaker, we assemble the structure. It's important not to rush. The goal is to position the coil in the magnet system exactly in the center and ensure there is no gap and no touching of the coil. From a strip of A4 office paper 10 cm wide, about 18 cm long, we fold the cylinder and insert it inside the diffuser coil. The cylinder should fit snugly against the coil and have no protrusions or bulges inside.
2. Let's try to insert such a construction into the magnetic system. Do not hurry! Better practice a few times. The cylinder should sink to the full depth of the magnetic gap and the coil should hardly move along the inserted cylinder. If the coil moves around the cylinder with great effort, then it is necessary to shorten the length of the paper strip, and if the coil moves freely, then it is necessary to increase the length of the paper strip.

The coil moves tightly in the cylinder. The technique can be applied to repair the 25GDN-1 (10GD-34) speaker and other similar speakers and cannot be regarded as the only correct one.

To do this, you will need the following basic materials:

1. Suspension to match the dynamics

2. Any contact adhesive (Moment-1, 88)

3. Latex or diluted PVA

Suspensions are supplied uncut, both on the inside and on the outside. are used not only for the repair of 75 HDN. It must be cut to the desired diameter.

The cap is peeled off by soaking the glue with acetone. The place for gluing the suspension is cleaned (on the diffuser and holder). The diffuser is cut around the perimeter by 2 mm. With the help of strips of paper (plastic, etc.), the moving system is centered (the strips are placed in the gap between the coil and the core of the magnetic system). Contact adhesive is applied to the suspension, diffuser and holder (the suspension will lose its shape at the beginning, then return to its original position). And, armed with dexterous hands, we evenly lower the suspension onto the diffuser and holder. It is better to slightly pull the diffuser out of the holder so that it first lies on the diffuser, and then glue it to the holder together with it. We take out the strips, control the build quality and glue the cap. To do this, you can use PVA or 88 glue.

To facilitate the process, you can peel off the washer from the diffuser by soaking it with acetone (fortunately, the quality of the adhesives of our speakers leaves much to be desired), and solder the leads (or it’s better to replace them altogether).

It is possible, of course, to peel off the washer from the holder, using for this purpose the glue solvent 88 - ethyl acetate.

Then, you need to put the suspension on a flat surface, smear the diffuser and suspension with glue, and then lower the diffuser with the coil onto it. Then we apply 88 glue on the suspension, holder, and BF on the diffuser and washer, center the movable system using the above method and paste it.

It is considered good form to pour latex (or diluted PVA) into the place indicated in the figure.

It is also good to make holes under the cap for better ventilation.

Prepared according to the materials of the portal www.diffuser.spb.ru

How to repair the speaker yourself? FAQ Part1

This is the first part of the loudspeaker head repair guide.

Here you will find information about the terminology used, speaker failures and the simplest repair, when only the replacement of the pigtails is required. Other issues will be discussed in future articles.

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How is the dynamic head arranged?

The diagram shows a cross section of a speaker. This is how low-frequency and mid-frequency loudspeaker heads are arranged.

1. Suspension (corrugation).
2. Flexible output (pigtail).
3. Bracket (attaches the pigtail to the diffuser).
4. Damper (protects the pigtail from breaking near the terminal).
5. Hole in housing for flexible output.
6. Insulating strip (holds the terminal).
7. Terminal.
8. Solders connecting the flexible lead to the terminal and the coil lead.
9. Coil output.
10. Coil.
11. Speaker housing (basket, frame).
12. Diffuser (membrane, diaphragm).
13. Dustproof cap (plug).
14. Centering washer.
15. Sleeve.
16. Pole tip.
17. Kern.
18. Top flange.
19. Magnet.
20. bottom flange.

The letters N and S denote the North and South poles of the magnet. This is the usual arrangement of the poles, although the opposite is occasionally found.

In the next picture, a conditional drawing of the tweeter in the context.

1. Coil output.
2. Insulating pad.
3. Suspension (elastic continuation of the dome).
4. Dome design diffuser (membrane, diaphragm).

The main difference between tweeters and midrange and woofers is the lack of a centering washer.

In addition, many tweeters use a domed cone, often referred to as a diaphragm. The dome and suspension of such speakers are a single unit, and the sleeve is attached to the dome.

Since the stroke of the tweeter cone is small, the coil leads often play the role of flexible leads.

What are speaker failures?

Speaker failures are caused by misuse, improper assembly, or normal wear and tear.

Incorrect operation.

Most often, damage occurs due to excess power supplied to the speaker. One of the reasons for such errors may be confusion with the method of determining the power of the speaker and amplifier. This is due to the fact that the same numerical values ​​​​of effective, root-mean-square (RMS), or as it is also called, sinusoidal power and amplitude or musical power create a current in the speaker coil that is two times different.

Another reason for overloading the speakers is the careless redistribution of power between the heads of multi-band speakers. Most often, tweeters suffer from this - tweeters. The fact is that the power of tweeters in multi-band systems can be less than 10% of the total speaker power. And if the user, with the help of an equalizer, supplies most of the power of the amplifier to the tweeter, then the death of the latter can be instantaneous.

There are also mechanical damage to the dust cap, suspension and diffuser. Sometimes these damages lead to misalignment, which in turn leads to the destruction of the coil and sleeve.

The destruction of the sleeve and the coil can also be caused by the displacement of the core. In such cases, the sleeve together with the coil is wedged in the magnetic gap. This usually occurs as a result of a loudspeaker or speaker being dropped.

Unqualified assembly.

Due to improper assembly, the sleeve, coil, suspension or centering washer may come off. Poor-quality gluing can also cause extraneous overtones.

Incorrect fastening of flexible leads can significantly reduce their life.

Normal wear.

If the loudspeaker head is assembled with high quality, then as a result of normal wear, the suspension and pigtails suffer the most. The diffuser can also collapse if its margin of safety does not match the power of the speaker.

How to identify a faulty speaker element without disassembly?

All speaker malfunctions can be divided into “mechanical” and “electrical” ones. However, it is very difficult to distinguish some electrical defects from mechanical ones by ear.

If no external changes, such as the destruction of a corrugation or diffuser, are detected, but extraneous overtones appear in the form of crackling or there is a periodic loss of sound, then the flexible leads should first be checked.

To do this, connect a pointer ohmmeter to the speaker terminals and move the pigtails with the diffuser stationary. If at the same time the ohmmeter needle moves, then the flexible output is damaged.

Other electrical defects include broken coils and short circuits in part of the coil turns or the entire coil. These defects can also be detected with an ohmmeter.

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To do this, a master oscillator signal is fed to the input of the amplifier.

A partially unstuck coil or part of the turns can be detected by smoothly changing the frequency of the generator or by turning on the generator in the GKCH mode (Sweeping Frequency Generator).

When checking this speaker, the GKCh range of 20Hz ... 2kHz with a period of 3 seconds was used. In this speaker, apparently, a significant part of the coil has come unstuck, since overtones are heard in a wide frequency range. If a small fragment of the coil is peeled off from the sleeve, overtones can appear only at some particular frequency, and only when the damaged structural element enters resonance.

In some cases, to identify a malfunction, it is useful to use an infra-low frequency generator. This can help to identify, for example, defects in the bonding of a rubber corrugation with a diffuser. The arrow shows the place where the overtone is formed.

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The rubbing of the sleeve on the core or coil on the inner surface of the upper flange can also be twisted at a frequency of several hertz, if you lightly press the corrugation waves with your fingers.

More serious damage to the speakers is even easier to identify.

So, for example, if something is heard when turning the speaker over, it means that part of the turns or the entire coil has fallen off the sleeve.

If the diffuser moves very poorly, then most likely the coil has fallen off and stuck the sleeve in the magnetic gap.

If the diffuser does not move at all, then the core may have moved and jammed the coil along with the sleeve.

Never attempt to disassemble such a speaker without first releasing the sleeve, as this may also damage the cone.

How to replace speaker pigtails?

Be extremely careful when replacing pigtails on an unassembled speaker, as a steel tool attracted by the magnetic system can damage the cone and dust cap.

If access to the flexible outputs (pigtails) of the speaker is free, then you can try to replace them without disassembling the speaker. But, in some cases, the speaker will still have to be disassembled. The picture shows a broken flexible output.

Dismantling the old flexible leads should be done with the utmost care so as not to damage the diffuser or break the coil leads.

First, the brass bracket is unbent, holding the flexible output, if, of course, there is one.

Then the place of soldering is heated with a soldering iron in order to separate from the diffuser, both the flexible output and the output of the coil. Usually, after warming up, the glue softens and the leads can be dismantled.

What can replace damaged flexible leads?

Of course, the easiest solution is to borrow the pigtails from another speaker of similar power, or order from a supplier that sells speaker parts. But, if this is not possible, or you want to save on spare parts, then you can make surrogate pigtails yourself.

The first and simpler option is to replace a failed pigtail with a piece of MGTF wire of a suitable section. Who first came up with this, I don’t know, but it was with such flexible leads that the once popular 4A32 speakers went on sale.

Another option is to make pigtails from Soviet-made flexible telephone cable. It can still be found among all the rubbish at flea markets.

I am familiar with two types of such cable. In one, each wire consists of seven strands, and in the other of fourteen. Each core is made by winding a copper tape on a lavsan thread. In the section, the tape has the shape of a rectangle with dimensions of 0.03 x 0.3 mm.

0,03 * 0,3 * 14 = 0,126 (mm²)

As you can see, the cross section is small, so for powerful speakers, you can twist two or more stranded wires.

First, a piece or pieces of telephone cable are prepared with a soldering iron.

The insulation is removed in small sections to avoid damage to the cores.

Then the cores of each stranded wire are untwisted and twisted again into one wire.

And finally, the flexible lead is carefully glued twice with rubber or 88th glue with an interval of 20 minutes.

Before the first gluing, the twist must be free so that the glue penetrates between the wires. Immediately after the first gluing, the cores are twisted to the end. The second sizing finally fixes the cores relative to each other.

Thus, it is possible to make a flexible output for a speaker of any power.

If there is no telephone or MGTF wire, then as a temporary measure, you can use the MGSHV wire or even a braid from a shielded wire, but such pigtails do not last long, and the load on the diffuser is greater due to less flexibility.

When installing a flexible output, it must be taken into account that the weakest points of this node are the places where the pigtail is attached to the diffuser and the terminal.

If the fastening brackets are damaged or lost, then the pigtail is fastened with two crossed stitches of thread. Then the attachment point is glued with glue with a large dry residue. Suitable weathered BF-2 / BF-4.

To prevent premature fracture of the pigtail, the attachment points are covered with several layers of rubber or 88th glue with the transition to a flexible output.