An alternative option for painting wooden ships. FAQ on painting models for beginners Painting plastic ship models

In the modern world, almost everything that surrounds us, from small to large objects, is covered with paint. And it has existed since the Stone Age. Behind an ordinary can of spray paint lies an entire industry. Nowadays, paint production has reached a very high-quality level, take, for example, the painting of ships and ships, the secret of which is naturally not disclosed.

When it comes to painting ships or ships, you should look at the English factory “X International”, where they have been making ship paint since 1891, since the British had no equal at sea. The necessary components for making ship paint have not fundamentally changed over time. What is needed is a pigment that creates the desired color, a solvent so that the paint can be easily used, and a binder that will hold it all together. You won't find the necessary ingredients for ship paint in DIY stores. The latest achievements in science and technology are used for its production.

Why can’t a ship or vessel be painted with regular paint? Why do we need special paint that costs 30 times more? It's hard to believe, but the most terrible enemies are sea creatures. At first glance, this seems funny, but when millions of these “pests” are attached to the ship’s hull, they disrupt the streamlining and, as a result, the efficiency of the ship’s movement drops by 40 percent. For this purpose, scientists have been brought in to produce ship paint.

anti-fouling ship paint from X International

The point is that the structure anti-fouling paint for ships, it is heterogeneous, and at the microscopic level it looks like a mosaic or a chessboard, therefore, when a mollusk attaches to it, it turns out that such a surface is new and incomprehensible to it, so it prefers to look for another shelter. Another feature of anti-fouling paint for ships is its sliding surface. This characteristic is stored in the composition of paint for ships and consists in the fact that marine organisms cannot attach well to it and when exposed to sea water, the hull slides off the surface. The frictional force of water against the hull of the ship is enough to clear the surface of unwanted passengers.

At any shipyard where ships are built, quite a lot of painting work is done. Imagine an average area of 14,000 sq. m need to be applied with ship paint costing about 300,000 euros.

cleaning the ship's hull from the old surface

Before workers begin painting the vessel, the first step is to prepare the painting surface for three coats of primer. Why is each module - part of the vessel - cleaned? To clean the surface, a special device is used, which is 25 times higher than the pressure in the sprayer at a car wash, throws out small grains of sand with water, which in turn clean the surface, sweeping away everything in its path.

applying an anti-corrosion layer to the ship's hull

The next step before painting the ship is to apply an anti-corrosion layer, which prolongs the life of the ship's hull.

ship after painting

After which a third bonding layer is applied to the entire hull of the vessel, onto which ship paint. Before the paint is applied to the hull of the boat, several reagents are added to ensure excellent adhesion. The paint is supplied to the sprayer through pipes, and so that it does not dry out after opening the barrel, it is periodically mixed with a mixer. Ship paint is stored in 10 liter barrels.

Vessel painting is completed within one week, after which the quality of work is checked by quality control representatives. Otherwise, corrosion may occur on the missing area of the housing surface, resulting in rust.

Surprisingly, the huge hull of the ship is painted not by robots, but by ordinary people. After painting the hull, ship paint is applied to the decks and other surfaces of the superstructures.

The average cost of a ship is 100 million euros, so without the use of anti-fouling paint, the ship's hull can become an excellent home for marine life and within two years the ship will again need a major overhaul.

Anti-fouling coatings play a key role in reducing the overall operating and commercial costs of a vessel. A clean, smooth ship hull is directly linked to fuel savings and can account for up to 50 percent of overall operating costs. In addition, the high performance of the antifouling coating will provide a host of other benefits to the shipowner such as reduced dry dock visit intervals and reduced maintenance costs and, as a result, reduced greenhouse gas emissions due to reduced fuel consumption.

Ancient sailing ships were often painted in a wide variety of colors. But now we can judge this only from illustrations in ancient books and from paintings. It can be very difficult to obtain accurate information
Unfortunately, very often, even in fairly detailed sets of drawings, the color of the ship is not indicated. It can be considered lucky if you find a color reproduction. Well, if not, then it’s quite possible to use your imagination, especially since the ships were repainted several times over their long lives and could change their colors. Moreover, each country with developed shipbuilding had its own characteristic palette.
The upper part of the side of Dutch ships was often painted olive or dark green. It was from Holland that the first shipbuilders were invited to Rus' back in 1668 by Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich to build the first Russian warship.
They brought with them not only the green color of the side, but also the colors of the national flag. It was on the "Eagle" that the white-blue-red flag was first raised as a state flag!
In Holland, during his Great Embassy, Peter I also began to study shipbuilding. It is not surprising that the green color of the side, or its decoration, eventually took root in the Russian Navy.
Around the middle of the 18th century, a tradition developed in Europe of painting warships in black and white. That is, the main color of the hull was black, and the stripes of the gun ports were white (sometimes they could be cream or light yellow).
English shipbuilders often painted their ships black with gold decoration or dark blue. In France and Sweden, preference was given to sky-blue tones (a striking example of this is the Swedish ship), and the Spaniards preferred an ocher-brown color scheme with decor of the national colors - red and yellow. The ships of the Hanseatic League were painted quite variedly, but with a predominance of red and white.
The decor was usually yellow or yellow-red. Expensive gilded trim was used only in exceptional cases, and silver color was not found at all.
Almost always, the gunwales, velvets, crane beams and channel bars were black or dark brown.
The outer walls of the superstructures facing the bulkhead deck and other structural elements usually retained their natural wood color.
This “color set”, of course, was not an immutable rule, but a noticeable trend is still clearly visible.
The inner surface of the bulwarks (sides above deck level), the jambs of gun ports, the edges and inner sides of their covers, until about the end of the 18th century, in almost all countries, warships were usually painted blood red. On merchant ships, brown or ocher was more often used. He later began to take root in the navy.

Among beginning modellers, it is not customary to paint the first model. Therefore, we will talk about that moment when you feel the need to fill the “mountains of plastic” with flowers and give them a varnished shine. Agree, decals alone are not enough here, so let’s look at the process of painting models in detail.

What will you need first?

This is money, and a lot of it. It is necessary to take into account the fact that a modeler spends a fair amount of money on his hobby, but the expenses are fully compensated by the stunning aesthetics of the models and the pleasure of creating amazing models from a bunch of plastic parts. Depending on the coloring method you will need:

Paints or enamels

By the word “paint” we mean substances that are not so easy, and sometimes even impossible, to wash off with water. They are applied once and for all, and you should be especially careful with them. You either won’t wash them off, or you’ll inhale too much of the solvents. As for enamel, most of them can be easily washed off with solvents. On thematic forums you will find a lot of advice from masters who are accustomed to consider themselves “the ultimate truth.” It is worth noting that you can find “your” paints and enamels by trial and error. Therefore, we do not recommend getting involved in disputes on forums - they will only take away your energy and waste your nerve cells.

What principles should be followed in the selection process?

It is recommended to experiment with all options. However, it is necessary to take into account the properties of paints and enamels. For example, nitro paints have a pungent odor and are not suitable for people with a particularly sensitive sense of smell; it is not recommended to use them when there are small children (under 12 years old) in the room. In this case, pay attention to water-based and acrylic paints - they have a less pungent odor. We also note that the nitro paints mentioned above are easy to use, but easily seep through transparent parts and are difficult to wash off from hands after use.

When painting the lion's share of models, you will need enamels or paints in the following colors:

Silver
Black
White

Paints of these colors should be purchased first, the rest can be purchased depending on the models you are working on at the moment. The main thing is never to mix paints on different bases and enamels from different manufacturers - they may become unusable. As for the quantity, one can of enamel or paint, when painted with an airbrush, is enough on average for 2 models. When working with a brush - for 1 model, when painting small parts and elements - for 9-11 pieces. For a beginner, it is better to purchase classic paints in cans - they are suitable both for working with a brush and for painting models with a brush.

Priming

A mass applied to the surface of the model, which actually acts as a connecting material between the plastic and the paint (enamel). The material is selected individually, depending on the paints or enamels you use. It is important to take into account the peculiarity of nitro paints - when painting a model with a brush, it slightly eats into the plastic - in this case you can do without primer. But when working with water-soluble paints and enamels, the use of primer is mandatory. Otherwise, you will encounter adhesion problems - water will roll off in droplets on the surface of the model, and you will not be able to achieve a uniform layer of paint. If you work with an airbrush, primer is always necessary - otherwise the paint will crack and will not adhere evenly to the surface of the model.

Varnish

Varnishing the painted surface is necessary to ensure the durability and practicality of the model, as well as to give it a complete, maximum aesthetics. You will be able to wipe and wash products without fear of paint slipping and cracks appearing. There is no shame in showing such products to friends; they look impressive and professional. Varnishes are usually divided into nitro- and water-soluble. So, when using nitro paints, you should use nitro or acrylic varnish. When painting a surface with water-soluble paints, you need to take into account the specifics of their structure and coat only with specialized varnishes recommended by the manufacturers. Interestingly, paints, enamels, varnishes and primers are sold in the form of aerosols, which do not require a solvent and are easy to use. However, their cost is an order of magnitude higher than the price of classical materials.

Solvent

Needed for diluting and rubbing off paints and enamels. Making a choice is extremely simple: in the initial stages, it is recommended to use the products indicated on the packaging with coloring materials. As you gain experience, you will be able to experiment with solvents and select the most suitable ones yourself. However, all paint manufacturers produce specialized solvents (thinners) for them, and it is unlikely that you will be able to find something better (only if something is cheaper). If the paint is marked “dilute with water,” then it is better to use boiled or distilled water - it does not contain minerals and other unnecessary impurities.

Washer

Technical wash is a means for cleaning brushes, tools, hands, work surfaces and other items that you have soiled. Do not confuse it with “washes”, which are used in attempts to artificially “age” a model and add visual effects. We also note that it is better to wash off enamels with a solvent, but for paints (not water-soluble) it is worth using a technical remover. Cleaning should be done immediately after completion of work, without waiting for the paint to dry and harden.

Tara

Usually the paints in the can are thick and need to be diluted when working. The easiest way to do this is to use tin lids, in which you can mix paint and solvent. We do not recommend throwing away the caps after use - over time, they will not only come in handy again, but will also form a full-fledged palette with which you can select the required shade for the models you are executing. Here you can re-mix the paints with solvents. If a crack forms on the surface of the models, you can also re-dilute the residue in the lid and use it as a “repair material”. Glass vials from all kinds of medicines and products are also suitable for containers.

How to choose a painting method?

In general, all modellers are divided in their preferences in choosing one of two types of painting models - with a brush or with an airbrush. Agree, it’s not so important to you how and what to paint, the main thing is to get a perfectly painted model. Therefore, for the first models, options made of colored plastic are suitable. After successful assembly, the initially painted plastic can be lightly decorated with patterns to suit your taste. And after successful assembly experience, you will be able to purchase unpainted plastic and saturate its surface with color yourself.

If your family is not against further experiments, we will purchase a model that will need to be painted entirely. Next, we decide what we will paint with - a brush or an airbrush? The first method is complex and economical. The second is more expensive and aesthetically pleasing. If you are working with brushes, you will not need any other tools, but for an airbrush you will have to purchase a compressor. Test your ability to paint the surface evenly with a brush. To do this, take regular glass and try to apply paint evenly on it, avoiding the appearance of bubbles, streaks, etc. If it works, work with a brush. If all attempts are unsuccessful, opt for an airbrush.

You can also use special aerosol cans for painting, but do not forget that this painting method is the most expensive. When choosing a brush painting method, purchase tools. Don’t skimp on buying brushes of different thicknesses, shapes, made from different materials. When choosing an airbrush, purchase a compressor, and do not forget to use a hood if necessary.

Assembling the model for painting

Remember the joke “All assembly instructions in Russian should begin with the phase “Well, did you break it?”.” Break this myth, read the instructions carefully and assemble the model in strict accordance with the recommendations. However, keep in mind an important nuance: after final assembly, it is no longer possible to completely paint the product. Therefore, look in advance at which parts should be painted before gluing on the next ones. So the figures should be painted completely, with the exception of weapons.

We also paint armored vehicles completely (the body); separately, before attaching them, we paint wheels, tracks, equipment, boxes and other elements, in particular the interior of the vehicle. You can hardly reach the steering wheel with a brush after assembly - paint it separately. Take into account the individual design of each model, because in its essence it is unique and inimitable, evaluate the scope of work in advance and experiment. The first pancake may not be “lumpy” if you calculate everything in advance.

Finishing work

In the process of finishing the model, take into account the sequence of stages of work, which in the end will allow you to get a truly beautiful, fully created model. So, we present you the algorithm.

Preparation

We take into account an important nuance: paint adheres better to a rough surface than to a perfectly smooth product. At the same time, we note that roughness always spoils the appearance of the model. Therefore, before painting, uneven surfaces are usually smoothed and polished. Typically, sandpaper with a grain size of M-40 or smaller is used for this. Ideal polishing materials can also be purchased in model shops, but their cost is slightly higher than in the same market. The “skin” is moistened with water and the surface is polished, including removing traces of glue. Ideally, start with coarse sandpaper and gradually move to finer grains. We continue polishing the surface until it becomes perfectly smooth. Note that a large number of elongated and protruding elements significantly increase the scope of work, but polishing them should not be neglected.

Next, we prepare the parts directly for painting - we place them on the frame or other holders, where the elements will be in the process of painting and drying. A minimum number of models have a design that allows parts to be painted without cutting them off the sprues. Often ordinary toothpicks, sticks and the same sprues are used as holders. The element is attached to the holder in such a way that it does not touch any surfaces. Place of attachment to the holder = place of attachment to the model, so it can be safely left unpainted. In the process of filling the first models with color, you can use the edge of the table as a stand for the mandrel; in the future, we recommend arming yourself with a special board with many holes, where you can attach several mandrels at the same time. Attention: after fitting the parts, do not touch it with your hands.

Surface degreasing

For high-quality painting, it is necessary to degrease the surface in advance. In this case, you can use both special products for modellers, and simple dishwashing detergents and even gasoline. Alcohol is most often used - after degreasing, it does not require drying the parts, whereas after using household chemicals, you need to rinse each part with water and dry thoroughly. During the degreasing process, do not touch the part with your hands under any circumstances. If any parts (dust, hairs) get in, brush them off with a dry brush.

Primary primer

Let us remind you that a primer is necessary for reliable attachment of paint to the surface of the product. In the case of using nitro paints, it may not be necessary, but when working with other paint materials, enamels, as well as when painting with a spray can or airbrush, it is necessary to prime the model. During the priming process, we apply protection to the transparent parts (simple masking tape will do), which we remove only after applying the last layer of paint or finishing varnish. Next, apply the primer evenly to the surface. If unevenness occurs, DO NOT WASH it, but leave it as is and wait for the primed parts to dry completely.

Intermediate sanding

Performed in case of obtaining an uneven surface as a result of priming. We take the finest-grained “skin” and carefully grind the soil, removing all smudges, drops and bumps. Be careful and careful: if you get too carried away with sanding, it is likely that some places will be erased “to plastic”. In this case, priming the surface will have to be repeated.

Finishing primer

After intermediate sanding, a final primer is always applied. It allows you to cover overly “cleaned” areas with the composition, as well as create a perfectly flat surface. Be extremely careful: during the process of repeated, final priming, beginners and even experienced modellers often again allow the formation of smudges and drops. It is possible that you did not make any mistakes, but the surface still seems ribbed. In this case, try sanding the primer again using finer-grain sandpaper.

Base tone

The main tone is the color of the largest area of the surface to be painted. It is determined according to the scheme, planning the color scheme in advance. At the same time, when working with light colors (red, yellow, beige, blue and others), it is recommended to apply white paint under the tone - this will make the model look much brighter. The surface of the entire model can be painted with the main tone (provided that you are not working with red). Usually several thin layers are applied - they look much better than one thick layer. When working with water-soluble paints, it is recommended to cover each layer with a clear varnish.

Camouflage

The process of applying camouflage is the most crucial moment in painting any model. During it, you can either create the ideal aesthetics of the product, or completely ruin it. Note that the technique of drawing is different for all modellers and is developed in the process of painting many models. However, you should still adhere to a number of rules. This is how light colors are applied first and only then dark ones. Elements that do not need to be painted must be protected with simple masking tape or specialized liquids.

Finishing

At this stage, all protective tapes are peeled off (only after the paint has completely dried), the model is covered with a thin layer of varnish (if necessary) and this is also allowed to dry. Be careful: it is necessary to apply varnish at a time when all protective coatings have not yet been removed. Next, again if necessary, various decals (transfers) can be applied to the surface. Your model is finally ready. From now on, it will mark the beginning of your collection or become its worthy continuation. All that remains is to find a place to place the model and proudly display it.

Conclusion

To summarize, we note that you should be patient and try to take into account all the recommendations given in this article. Believe me, the first model is not always perfect. A modeler is an extremely patient, diligent and truly diligent person. Each model requires a lot of time and effort, for which it will fully reward you with its stunning aesthetics and believability. Be patient and persevere!

For painting models of ships and vessels, oil, enamel, and nitro-enamel paints are most often used.

In order for the quality of painting to be good, it is necessary to comply with all stages of the technological process, consisting of surface preparation, priming, local and complete puttying; sanding with sandpaper; applying paint and sanding it with thin sandpaper; polishing pastes.

Preparing the surface for painting. To prepare the surface of a wooden model for painting, you need to process the body with a plane, file and sandpaper, and also eliminate defects (burrs, cracks, fallen knots). Metal models are processed with files, sandpaper and degreased with soda solution or soapy water.

Priming the Ship Model

Priming the body for oil paints for better adhesion of subsequent layers is done with special primer No. 138a; in the absence of this grade, you can use natural drying oil or liquid oil paint (preferably red lead). For nitro paints you can use primer No. 138, AK-20 glue, enamel and nitro varnishes.

The primer is applied to the surface 2-3 times. After drying, each layer is treated with fine sandpaper.

Puttying the Ship Model

Puttying is intended to level the surface. Local puttying (filling holes, scratches, etc.) is done with thick putty. After drying, it is sanded and the model is generally puttied with liquid putty in several layers. Putty for oil paints can be prepared as follows: 1. Talc or chalk - 70%; drying oils - 25%; paints (preferably red lead or white lead) - 5%; 2. Chalk - 350 g; oil varnish - 100 g; red lead - 40 g. Thick putty is applied with a spatula, knife or piece of elastic rubber 6-8 mm thick, and liquid putty is applied with a soft brush, flute or sprayer. For nitro paints, putty ASh-30, ASh-24, ASh-32 is used.

Nitro putty can be prepared by mixing talc (baby powder) with AK-20 nitro glue, enamel or any other nitro varnish.

Grinding. Sanding is necessary to eliminate roughness after puttying or painting.

At the beginning of work (after local puttying), sandpaper No. 48-80 is used; after the first layers of continuous putty - No. 80-120; The last layers of putty are sanded with sandpaper No. 140-170-280.

To save sandpaper, wet sanding is recommended. If it is done with waterproof sandpaper, then the surface is generously moistened with water. If there is no waterproof sandpaper, then sand it with regular sandpaper soaked in kerosene. After each grinding with kerosene, before subsequent coatings, the surface must be thoroughly washed with soda or soapy water and dried

Painting the Ship Model

The quality of the model's painting largely depends on the practical skills of young shipbuilders, on the ability to prepare the surface and on the brands of paints used.

Typically, painting is done with paint sprayers of the KR brands (KR-10, KR-11, KR-12, etc.). Any compressor can be used that produces a pressure of up to 3 atm, including small-sized S-511 and S-21.

The position of the spray gun should be such that the jet from it is directed perpendicular to the surface to be painted, the distance to which should be within 250-300 mm. The gun must be moved evenly, at a constant speed. If the movement is too fast, the paint will lay down in a thin layer, and if it moves too slowly, it will be thick, which may result in smudges. The paint must be applied in successive parallel stripes. Each strip should overlap the adjacent one by 10-20 mm.

It is necessary to ensure the correct ratio of air pressure and the thickness of the paint coming from the spray gun. The air pressure should be 2-3 atm. The greater the pressure, the thicker the paint should be and vice versa. This is determined experimentally on a test surface.

Small parts can be painted with a simple spray gun. For this purpose, nitro paint is diluted quite thinly. When painting with brushes, the type of brush hair is of no small importance. The best brushes are made from squirrel, ferret, badger and bear fur.

Before starting work, new brushes need to be braided (tied) at the base with thread or thin twine. For thick paints, the part free from binding is made shorter, for liquid paints - longer. During painting, the brush should be held at an angle of 45-55° to the surface to be painted, movements should be light and free. In this case, you need to ensure that the paint is applied in an even, thin layer and does not form smudges.

When painting a model with nitro paints, you must remember that they dry very quickly. Therefore, you should not brush over the same area twice. Strokes should be short, in one direction. If a large drop hits the surface, it must be rubbed off immediately.

Nitro paints are diluted with RDV solvents, No. 646, 647, 648 and 649. They cannot be diluted with acetone, since it dries out the paint and cracks.

Coating is usually done with oil paints in 2-3 layers, and with nitro paints in 10-15 layers.

The first coat of paint is considered “detective”. It makes it possible to detect remaining defects on the prepared surface. They must be removed by repeated puttying and sanding.

Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must be thoroughly dried. Drying time for oil paints should be at least 24 hours. Polishing. When painting a model, polishing is the final step. It is produced with a special polishing paste for passenger cars or GOI paste. The paste is applied to a soft rag, a piece of felt or felt, and using circular movements, bring the surface to a mirror shine. Then it is wiped with polishing water, kerosene or liquid oil.

Color selection. The color of the model should not differ from the color of real vessels of the same type. The following basic rules can be recommended when choosing a color scheme.

The surface of warships is painted in various shades of spherical (gray) color. To obtain it, 5-7% black paint is added to white.

The surface part of passenger ships (hull and superstructure) is painted white. For cargo and cargo-passenger ships, the hull is painted black, and the superstructure is painted white. The chimneys of ships with a white hull are white, and those with a black hull are black.

The underwater part is painted with green or red paint. It is recommended to mark the waterline with a strip of celluloid.

Now you know how to build ship models.

It’s not news to anyone that there are many types of paints and varnishes. Cars require one thing, airplanes another, factories a third, living quarters a fourth. Naturally, ships were no exception. Such a titan as the paint and varnish industry has been involved in the repair and construction of a wide variety of ships for a very long time, from huge liners to tiny private boats.

The basic principle of creating paints for ships has not changed over the years; paint still consists of some kind of pigment, solvent and connecting elements, but individual parts are constantly being improved. Shipbuilding is a very important area, so the latest paints with various useful properties are actively used in it. They are not cheap, as are any ship paints.

Purpose of painting ships

The task of paint and varnish materials when painting a ship is not only decoration, they should, as far as possible, facilitate the work of the ship, and they succeed in this. Of course, there is no limit to perfection, but modern ship paints are capable of much.

Ships spend months and years in an extremely hostile environment, from which paint and varnish materials are also protected. Constant contact with water, sometimes floating ice, shells trying to stick to the hull... By the way, it is these marine animals that pose a very serious problem.

One single shell, of course, is a trifle, especially when you consider the size of many modern ships, but the matter is never limited to one, two, ten or even a hundred. Shells tend to cover the entire underwater part of the vessel. Why is this dangerous, besides deteriorating appearance? Unfortunately, colonies of shells reduce the seaworthiness of the ship. Speed slows, fuel consumption increases, and ship owners lose income. How can paint help? Its task is to prevent them from gaining a foothold.

Before the advent of modern paints, people tried for many years to fight this scourge, inventing a variety of methods. There are resin-coated hulls, many layers of plating, and even the use of tar, gunpowder or arsenic for protection. Officially, approximately three hundred different patents have been registered in Great Britain alone, and this is over two hundred years, that is, more than one new product per year. And how many ideas were never legally enshrined? How many of them appeared in other states?

Now all this is behind us. Many paint coatings containing barnacle-killing substances came into play. This is an expensive but effective method. However, it must be said that those means that preceded it were not cheap. Perhaps in the future there will be a cheap paint that can prevent fouling and is suitable in other respects, but that day has not come yet.

Naturally, the ability to prevent shell fouling is not the only requirement that applies to paint and varnish materials used in shipbuilding. It is also necessary to provide a solution to the problem of corrosion, and the effect must be long-lasting. No less important is the ability to adequately interact with other corrosion protection mechanisms.

As for the application process, the paint should make it extremely fast and convenient. It should dry as quickly as possible, not require ideal weather conditions for application, be suitable for painting a vessel using a variety of mechanisms, not conflict with other paints used in shipbuilding, and apply well even if the surface is far from ideal. Ships are usually large, and few people can afford to paint them by hand, for a long time and only in good weather or in a protected area.

There are many more conditions that paint and varnish materials used in shipbuilding must meet. Here are physical, chemical, and technological characteristics. Using the wrong paint can be very costly. What the ship is intended for also matters. Of course, an icebreaker and a cruise liner that sails in warm water should not be painted with the same paint - the operating conditions are too different. But, no matter what kind of vessel we are talking about, all materials must be of high quality, confirmed by relevant documents. The company that carries out work related to painting the vessel is required to control this.

Some materials arrive ready-made, for example, single-component ones of all varieties. Unfortunately, sometimes they turn out to be thickened, but this can be corrected by wisely using thinner in an amount appropriate to the type of paint. In general, this figure is 5-20%.

Materials consisting of several, usually two or three, components must be combined together before painting. All necessary information, such as the correct ratio of one component to another, how long the finished mixture can be stored and the appropriate level of viscosity, must be specified in the technical documentation.

Another characteristic property of shipbuilding paints and varnishes is that they should not interfere with welding work with the primer not removed.

This is necessary because the primer is used to protect idle ships. If paint causes a weld to be weaker than it needs to be, it could spell disaster.

Depending on what equipment a ship painting company has, the painting method will also vary. This should be taken into account when choosing a company. For different painting methods, it is recommended to use different methods for cleaning the body. Thus, if a company has a limited range of cleaning equipment, some types of painting will not be available to it.

When painting a ship, many parameters must be observed.

Let's look at some of them:

Painting of the ship must be carried out according to a strictly defined technological scheme, possible replacement variations are pre-set. If it is absolutely necessary to replace one paint with another, this issue must be discussed separately with the developer. Whatever stage of painting is carried out, it must be carefully controlled, for which there are special services. Their job is to monitor how well the surface is prepared and whether the paint is applied correctly. The fact that paint will stick worse on a poorly cleaned surface is obvious, which is why preparation for painting is given no less attention than the process itself. Poor preparation leads to insufficiently high protective properties of the paint and a decrease in its wear resistance.
If an area is severely damaged, say, due to corrosion, it is necessary to completely rid it of all layers of damaged coating without exception. Sometimes a similar procedure needs to be carried out with the entire or almost entire body. Sometimes with a minor part, sometimes it is not required.
If the situation is not too bad, the area has not suffered from corrosion and has no significant damage at all, it is enough to limit itself to partial processing in those places where the coating has become unusable. The threshold for acceptable damage is 20%; if it is higher, partial treatment is replaced with complete treatment. 4. To understand how well the coating has been preserved, it should be tested for strength with a strong stream of water or a special metal brush.
It is highly recommended not to deviate from the instructions when applying the material. This will lead to various defects and a general deterioration in the quality of the coating.
Despite the fact that paint and varnish materials used in shipbuilding are quite resistant to weather conditions during painting, this resistance is not unlimited. It is strictly prohibited to paint outdoors during foggy, rainy or windy weather. If the surface of the ship is under ice or even frost, painting cannot be carried out either. The ability to conduct it in a place protected from weather factors is not always available, although this solves this problem.

Thus, the paint and varnish industry, which has penetrated into all spheres of modern life, among other things, makes life easier for many sailors, both ordinary and military, owners and employees of shipping-related companies, boat lovers and people working in shipbuilding.